It is the end of Summer 2011 - a time when every birder turns their minds to the autumn bird migration. This was the time when I met Sergey Panayotov – a prominent Bulgarian wildlife photographer. We were working on a project to develop birdwatching routes in South-east Bulgaria and film the wildlife there. I had the task of identifying all the locations for filming and watching local wildlife. Then, Sergey had to film it. It was the perfect combination of skills and team work. Our former experience; me as a birder and a birdwatching guide and Sergey being a wildlife photographer, allowed us to develop a well targeted and informative product that would be of help not only to foreign birders but also to local people and participatory wildlife conservation. We decided to capitalize on our experience from this project and implement it somewhere else.
Sergey has just finished reconstructing a cottage in North-east Bulgaria in a small and remote village. It has only about 10 people who live there. "True wilderness." I said when I first heard that. Being on the edge of an Important Bird Area (IBA) and a prime butterfly area called Suha Reka, the cottage has huge potential for becoming a birdwatching and wildlife photography centre. When guiding mainly British birders, I have been asked many times whether someone offers a cottage for renting in a birding location. Well that was it. We wanted to visit the area and see what we can do there.
It was mid-September when I first visited the cottage. I wasn't sure what to expect. I didn't wait long before the first birds started turning up – Golden Orioles, Sombre Tit, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Bee-eaters, and some 20 other bird species in about an hour while having my coffee. And this was in the cottage backyard. I looked forward to seeing what birdlife would be in the area. Since the cottage is situated on a migratory flyway we had our rarities as well: Thrush Nightingale and a Red-breasted Flycatcher - both of them in the cottage backyard in that very first hour of 'birding'. My colleague had never seen one before so this was the perfect example and reason to combine our skills.
After breakfast we took a long walk into the depths of Suha Reka valley. After only about 20 minutes walking we were in a totally different habitat. Limestone rocks. Caves. Sheer cliffs 30m high. This dramatic scenery would be ideal to every nature lover who wants to spend a week out in nature. The name of the area means "dry river". In the past, water used to flow and make its way to the north towards the Danube River all across the Dobrudza plain. Data suggests that the river used to flow for about 80-90 km. Currently, only the carved limestone rocks are left with some of the oldest rock monasteries in Bulgaria dating from V-VI century. Here, several pairs of Eagle Owl, Black Stork, Long-legged Buzzard and Alpine Swift find their homes. The call of the Hoopoe echoes from every little bit of rock with hollows. The forest along the valley is home to several pairs of Lesser-spotted Eagles. Every little bit of woodland on a sloping hill side with a few trees would be the ideal place to look for Sombre Tit, Grey-headed Woodpecker or Black Woodpecker. What a place!
At the end of the day the mild light of the setting sun gently withdrew from the cliffs leaving space to the shadows and life of nocturnal animals. We headed home. We should come back for them another time when we will be more prepared. Discussing the productive findings from the day we considered it ended. Not at all. Once we were in the cottage, we wanted to end up the day with a nice cold beer. At this moment, a Nightjar dashed across the backyard. A couple of minutes later Golden Jackals started howling from the valley next the cottage. "This is definitely "the place of true wilderness", I said to Sergo.
Long-legged Buzzard copyright Nature Travel
Witnessing this diversity of wildlife we decided it would be a great idea to build several photography hides. Initially we were only thinking about birds and established one drinking station and a tower hide for them. After listening to the Jackals' howls we decided it would be incredible if we could photograph them as well. The area has the perfect features: very remote, totally wild, and visited by very few people. In winter the Jackals walk along the main street within the village itself. Ooops, I hope you are not afraid of them.
Last winter we put some bait out and set up a photo trap at several locations. The results are clear. There was a site visited by a Wild Boar and a Golden Jackal, so we quickly pointed out the spot for a hide for Jackal photography.
Sergey is the person who has built the highest number of photography hides in the country so he knew how to establish them. We had to consider the light conditions at sunrise and sunset in every season, the activity of wildlife, the background, distance to the objects, perches and various places for birds to land, water reflections, etc. Then the hard work had to start. Digging, digging, digging. After all the drainage is sorted, we set the boards for the sides of the hides and the roof. Ever since, there has been no problem whatsoever with water or snow. We put up nets which fall over the lenses so photographers are well disguised in the hide with no compromise on light. The hides are suitable for two. We have put cozy chairs adjustable in height and several very convenient shelves for the morning coffee in the hides. There is a mobile gas heater that is quite needed in winter days!
Hawfinch copyright Nature Travel
Currently we manage four photography hides but with the intention to build two more. There is one photo hide with a drinking station, one tower hide, one photo hide for the Jackals and one mobile hide which we use for Bee-eaters and Rollers – some of the most wanted European birds photographed throughout Europe. The highlight of the drinking station is the Hawfinch which was really common at the end of March. Over 20 birds were actively landing on the perches. The highlights of the tower hide are Golden Oriole, Middle spotted Woodpecker and Black-headed Bunting. Other than them between 10-16 bird species land daily on the tree in front of the tower hide including Turtle Dove, Common Nightingale, Ortolan Bunting, Cuckoo and many others. Occasionally even Bee-eaters and Eurasian Sparrowhawk land on the tree. However Bee-eaters, Rollers and Semi-collared Flycatcher are photographed at specifically designed sites where we set up a mobile hide. The hide for Jackals turned out to be productive as well. In addition to these marvelous creatures we were pleasantly surprised by a Marbled Polecat.
The area of Suha Reka also offers opportunities for more dynamic types of photography for those who are not into waiting. Just cruising along the quiet roads can be rather productive. Birds like Black-headed Bunting, Red-backed Shrike, Crested Lark, Isabelline Wheatear and even Souslik can be photographed from the car. We believe the area offers incredible opportunities to wildlife photographers who want to spend more time at one area and capture the unique moment of a spectrum of several bird species rather than losing a lot of time while making long trips from one area to the other and packing their stuff all the time.
Birders find their own paradise in the area as well. Spring is the time when nature comes alive. Orioles, hoopoes, bee-eaters, red-backed shrikes are all over the place. We have compiled a checklist of birds seen in the area which now includes over 160 species. This spring we took a walk which resulted in nine species of raptor in just three hours. A day walk can produce between 20-80 bird species. Some of the highlights are Lesser-spotted Eagle, Levant Sparrowhawk, Long-legged Buzzard, Isabelline Wheatear, Black-headed Bunting, Ruddy Shelduck, Greater Short-toed Lark, Eagle Owl, Alpine Swift, Sombre Tit, Barred Warbler and many others. The cottage is situated right on the birds' migratory flyway. The end of September is the time when birders can see several hundred Lesser-spotted Eagle in a day. Common Buzzard, Honey Buzzards, harriers, White Storks - they all migrate across here. You just need to be at the right spot at the right time. Often birds come as low as 50m over the cottage.
Bee-eater copyright Nature Travel
We recently guided two polish photographers in the area who concluded: "This is a Paradise! We shall come back again".
For more information about the birdwatching and wildlife photography opportunities or to book a birdwatching or wildlife photography break with us call the NatureTravel.eu Team on 00359 888409907 or email info@naturetravel.eu
