South Africa - Western Cape, 14-23 October 2006

Published by Benjamin Schwartz (benji_schwartz AT hotmail.com)

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Photos with this report (click to enlarge)

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Summary

Birding the Western Cape of South Africa is always a rewarding experience. With a large number of both common African birds as well as many endemic and near-endemic species, this area is great for both beginners and experienced birders alike. The drive along the Garden Route is one of South Africa’s top tourist attractions due to the amazing scenery and wonderful diversity encountered. From the Fynbos of Cape Town to the forests of Knysna and the dry desert of the Karoo, the senses are constantly being bombarded with fresh beauty. With 279 bird species and 19 mammal species seen in less than ten days, it was an experience which would be difficult to surpass.

Daily Log

14 Oct:
Based out of Cape Town for four nights, we spent our days birding around this spectacular region. The first day wasn’t technically scheduled as a birding day and we still managed to see over 100 species. We started off with the requisite stops for any avid birder: Koeberg Nature Reserve (located at a nuclear power plant) and the Strandfontein Water Treatment. On our way to Koeberg we pulled over at a little pond to watch Cape Weaver and the amazingly colored Red Bishop flitting through the reeds. Koeberg was an amazing introduction to the birds of the Western Cape with White-backed Mousebird, Cape Weaver, Spotted Prinia, Bar-throated Apalis and both Malachite and Lesser Double-collared Sunbirds at every turn. A Bokmakierie was kind enough to sit atop a bush singing in the early morning dawn. The highlight of this area was the chance encounter with a Cape Penduline-Tit defending its nest. After a lunch break we headed over to the water treatment center to get up to speed on the waterfowl of the region. The area was swarming with ducks, including the Maccoa Duck with its outlandish bright blue bill. Greater Flamingo were filling many of the ponds and provided a beautiful backdrop. We also managed to pick up the endemic Cape Longclaw near the beach. With a little time left before sunset we drove to Boulders to see the Jackass Penguin, which were completely undisturbed by our presence. Off the coast giant Southern Right Whales breached the surface. Making our way back to the accommodation for the evening we stopped for views of Cape Sugarbird as well as more looks at the iridescent Malachite Sunbird. Not a bad start to an amazing trip!

15 Oct:
A bright and early start brought us to Simonstown where we boarded a boat for a morning of pelagic birding. The trip was almost cancelled due to rough seas but we were assured that it would be much calmer once we got out. After a bumpy start it did indeed calm down once we passed the Cape. We managed to find a large trawling vessel about 20 km off the coast and followed this all morning. The birds were trailing the vessel in their thousands. We were engulfed in a sea of Pintado Petrel and Greater Shearwater. Mixed in the milieu were Shy Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, Indian and Atlantic Yellow-nose Albatross, and an outstanding Northern Royal Albatross, which made an appearance just off our bow. We also saw both the Northern and Southern Giant-Petrel and a pair of Subantarctic Skua. The number of birds around us was an amazing experience that won’t soon be forgotten.

The afternoon was spent regaining our land-legs at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in Cape Town. The gardens are a virtual Eden where we could relax and enjoy the birds at the same time. Helmeted Guineafowl were rampant. Upon entering the gardens we were treated to the often-illusive Forest Canary as well as being able to coax out the endemic Knysna Warbler that sat trilling within two meters of us. A Lemon Dove and Spotted Eagle-Owl, thinking they were completely camouflaged, sat in front of us long enough for every one to get excellent views.

16 Oct:
Birding along back roads north of Cape Town, our first outstanding sighting was of a Southern Black Korhaan. European Bee-eater, Blue Crane, and African Hoopoe soon followed this sighting. The early morning chorus allowed us to track down the Cape Clapper, Cape Long-billed, and Large-billed Larks. After more birds than can possibly be mentioned here, the back roads led us to the Paternoster Flower Reserve where we managed to pick out the tiny Cloud Cisticola doing fantastic aerial displays far above us before returning to our level. Hordes of shorebirds were encountered later in the afternoon and all had excellent views of the localized and difficult to find Chestnut-banded Plover. Lesser Flamingo could be seen strutting in the background with a preponderance of Curlew Sandpiper up close. The last vestiges of sunlight were used to watch a mating pair of Black Eagle returning to their chick in a nest on a cliff face.

17 Oct:
Having seen a vast majority of the birds in the area immediately surrounding Cape Town, we decided to venture further a field to the Tankwa-Karoo. This dry region provided a whole new slew of birds. Karoo Lark, Spike-heeled Lark, and the near-endemic and highly nomadic Stark’s Lark were all found. The also highly nomadic Black-eared Sparrowlark was in abundance. Ludwig’s Bustard was spotted in the distance and was kind enough to take flight and show us its amazing wingspan. The Karoo Korhaan was then found just down the road. After a breathtakingly beautiful hike up a gorge, a pair of Cinnamon-breasted Warblers finally made an appearance in the rocky ledges around us. A Pririt Batis then serenaded us as we ate lunch at an idyllic picnic site near the gorge.

18 Oct:
Packing up to leave Cape Town behind, we made our way to the Agulhas Plain for more endemics. On the way we stopped in the town of Rooiels where we pick up the Cape Rock Thrush on a rooftop before heading to the outskirts of the town. Here we followed the calls of Cape Rockjumper, Cape Siskin, and Victorin’s Warbler up the side of an outcrop where they were all found singing to their hearts content in the early morning light. Before leaving Rooiels a Cape Grassbird serenaded us outside our vehicle. The drive through the Agulhas Plain to De Hoop Nature Reserve revealed Blue Crane around every turn. While stopped to view a flock of over 100 of these magnificent birds, a Denham’s Bustard was spotted all puffed up and displaying in the distance. Looking into De Hoop provided some of our first views of Africa’s large mammals, including Eland and the threatened Mountain Zebra. With more bustards displaying all around us a Secretarybird was seen running along the plains as Cape Vulture soared above us heading to their evening roost.

19 Oct:
A morning spent in De Hoop proved very productive with the highlight being a group of four Southern Tchagra, which uncharacteristically perched in the open for us to view. The specialty Agulhas Clapper and Agulhas Long-billed Larks were found with giant white sand dunes and miles of open coastline in the background. Tearing ourselves away from the grandeur of the beach we loaded back in the van to make our way to Wilderness and more birding. Stopping along the way at a slow moving river, we came face to face with the bright green Knysna Turaco as well as Olive Bush Shrike. Arriving in Wilderness we took a short walk through the forest before sunset. It proved extremely beneficial with views of both the Chorister and White-starred Robins on either side of us.

20 Oct:
The Bed and Breakfast that we stayed at in Wilderness proved to be a treasure trove of birding with feeders on the patio where we ate breakfast. Knysna Turaco and Fork-tailed Drongo spent their morning eating within meters of where we were doing the same, while Red-necked Spurfowl wandered the lawn beneath us. Olive Woodpecker were seen feeding up a palm and Knysna Woodpecker could be heard further in the thickets. After a leisurely morning of birding we drove to the Keurbooms River where we loaded onto a boat in much calmer water than during our pelagic experience. Heading up the river we were amazed at being able to sidle up right next to one of the most elusive birds in South Africa: the White-backed Night Heron. We also had great views of Black-headed Oriole and Grey Cuckooshrike along the river.

21 Oct:
The forest around Wilderness once again proved beneficial with a pair of Narina Trogon that responded to our call and perched just above us. A Klaas’s Cuckoo working its way through the canopy was an amazing sight but was quickly surpassed by the iridescent green and yellow of the African Emerald Cuckoo also perched right in front of us. After leaving the forest we worked our way over the Swartberg Pass to Karoo National Park. The scenery of the pass was amazingly majestic with huge mountains and overlapping stratigraphy all around us. Working our way up the curving road we found Ground Woodpecker on the hillsides and at the very top a Sentinel Rock Thrush guarding the pass. Arriving at Karoo National Park we were amazed by the number of mammals around up. Antelopes of every size, from Steenbok to Kudu, dotted the open plains.

22 Oct:
Starting off early in the morning to avoid the heat of the desert sun we found Karoo Long-billed Lark and Rock Pipit almost immediately. Short-toed Rock Thrush and Black-headed Canary were also found perched atop shrubs, while Yellow-bellied Eremomela could be seen in the tangles beneath them. Grey-winged Francolin ran circles around us as we made our way back to the lodge. After an afternoon siesta we drove further into the preserve for our last evening of birding. Driving back to the lodge we were treated to an unexpected sight when four Kudu started snorting near the car. Looking slightly further into the distance we were thrilled to glimpse a caracal, one of Africa’s cats, slinking through the brush. After dinner a night drive was arranged to see the many antelope of this region. The local guide pointed out Mountain Zebra, duiker, and Gemsbok attending to their nocturnal business and completely unconcerned our presence. A perfect end to our last full day in the Cape.

23 Oct:
After birding for a short period early in the morning we started on the drive back to Cape Town. Thinking we had seen every thing possible we were startled when the van came to a screeching stop as two Burchell’s Courser landed on the side of the road. Simply Amazing.

Species Lists

This list includes all the bird species that were recorded by at least one of us. Note that this is a group list. Taxonomy and nomenclature follow: Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A Checklist. Fifth Edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co.

1 Common Ostrich Struthio camelus
2 Jackass Penguin Spheniscus demersus
3 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
4 Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis
5 Little Grebe (Dabchick) Tachybaptus ruficollis
6 Northern Royal Albatross Diomedea sanfordi
7 Shy Albatross Diomedea cauta
8 Black-browed Albatross Diomedea melanophris
9 Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross Thalassarche chlororhynchos
10 Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross Thalassarche carteri
11 Southern Giant Petrel Macronectes giganteus
12 Northern Giant Petrel Macronectes halli
13 Pintado (Cape) Petrel Daption capense
14 Cory's Shearwater Calonectris diomedea
15 Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus
16 Great Shearwater Puffinus gravis
17 Wilson's Storm Petrel Oceanites oceanicus
18 Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus
19 Cape Gannet Morus capensis
20 White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus
21 Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis
22 Bank Cormorant Phalacrocorax neglectus
23 Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus
24 Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax coronatus
25 African Darter Anhinga rufa
26 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
27 Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala
28 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
29 Little Egret Egretta garzetta
30 Yellowbilled Egret Mesophoyx intermedia
31 White-backed Night Heron Gorsachius leuconotus
32 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
33 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
34 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus
35 White Stork Ciconia ciconia
36 Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus
37 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
38 Hadeda Ibis Bostrychia hagedash
39 African Spoonbill Platalea alba
40 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber
41 Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor
42 White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus
43 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus
44 South African Shelduck Tadorna cana
45 Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata
46 African Black Duck Anas sparsa
47 Cape Teal Anas capensis
48 Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha
49 Cape Shoveller Anas smithii
50 Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma
51 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis
52 Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa
53 Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius
54 Cape Vulture Gyps coprotheres
55 Yellow-billed Kite Milvus parasitus
56 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
57 Verreaux's (Black) Eagle Aquila verreauxii
58 Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis
59 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
60 African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer
61 Forest Buzzard Buteo trizonatus
62 Jackal Buzzard Buteo rufofuscus
63 Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus
64 African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro
65 Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus
66 African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus
67 Black Harrier Circus maurus
68 Gymnogene Polyboroides typus
69 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
70 Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus
71 Rock Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
72 Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides
73 Grey-winged Francolin Francolinus africanus
74 Cape Francolin Francolinus capensis
75 Red-necked Francolin Francolinus afer
76 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix
77 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
78 Blue Crane Anthropoides paradiseus
79 Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris
80 Purple Gallinule Porphyrio porphyrio
81 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
82 Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata
83 Stanley's Bustard Neotis denhami
84 Ludwig's Bustard Neotis ludwigii
85 Karoo Korhaan Eupodotis vigorsii
86 Southern Black Korhaan Eupodotis afra
87 African Black Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini
88 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
89 Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus
90 Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris
91 Grey (Black-bellied) Plover Pluvialis squatarola
92 Crowned Plover Vanellus coronatus
93 Blacksmith Plover Vanellus armatus
94 Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos
95 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
96 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
97 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
98 Little Stint Calidris minuta
99 Ruff Philomachus pugnax
100 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
101 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
102 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
103 Spotted Dikkop (Thick-knee) Burhinus capensis
104 Water Dikkop (Thick-knee) Burhinus vermiculatus
105 Burchell's Courser Cursorius rufus
106 Subantarctic Skua Catharacta antarctica
107 Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus
108 Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus
109 Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus
110 Hartlaub's Gull Larus hartlaubii
111 Sabine's Gull Larus sabini
112 Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
113 Swift (Greater Crested) Tern Sterna bergii
114 Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
115 Common Tern Sterna hirundo
116 Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea
117 Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua
118 Feral (Rock) Pigeon Columba livia
119 Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea
120 Rameron (Olive) Pigeon Columba arquatrix
121 Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata
122 Cape Turtle Dove Streptopelia capicola
123 Laughing (Palm) Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
124 Namaqua Dove Oena capensis
125 Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria
126 Lemon (Cinnamon) Dove Columba larvata
127 Knysna Lourie (Turaco) Tauraco corythaix
128 African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus
129 Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas
130 Diederik Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius
131 Barn Owl Tyto alba
132 Spotted Eagle Owl Bubo africanus
133 Fiery-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus pectoralis
134 African Black Swift Apus barbatus
135 White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
136 Horus Swift Apus horus
137 Little Swift Apus affinis
138 Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba
139 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus
140 White-backed Mousebird Colius colius
141 Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus
142 Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina
143 Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima
144 Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata
145 European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
146 African Hoopoe Upupa africana
147 Red-billed Wood-hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus
148 Pied Barbet Tricholaema leucomelas
149 Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator
150 Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor
151 Ground Woodpecker Geocolaptes olivaceus
152 Olive Woodpecker Mesopicos griseocephalus
153 Cape Clapper Lark Mirafra apiata
154 Agulhas Clapper Lark Mirafra marjoriae
155 Sabota Lark Mirafra sabota
156 Cape Long-billed Lark Certhilauda curvirostris
157 Agulhas Long-billed Lark Certhilauda brevirostris
158 Karoo Long-billed Lark Certhilauda subcoronata
159 Karoo Lark Mirafra albescens
160 Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciata
161 Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea
162 Large-billed Lark Galerida magnirostris
163 Barn (European) Swallow Hirundo rustica
164 White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis
165 Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata
166 Greater Striped Swallow Hirundo cucullata
167 Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula
168 Common House Martin Delichon urbica
169 Brown-throated (Plain) Martin Riparia paludicola
170 Banded Martin Riparia cincta
171 Black Saw-wing Swallow Psalidoprocne holomelas
172 Grey Cuckoo-shrike Coracina caesia
173 Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis
174 Eastern Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus
175 Black (Cape) Crow Corvus capensis
176 Pied Crow Corvus albus
177 House Crow Corvus splendens
178 White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis
179 Cape Penduline Tit Anthoscopus minutus
180 Cape Bulbul Pycnonotus capensis
181 African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans
182 Terrestrial Brownbul Phyllastrephus terrestris
183 Sombre Greenbul Andropadus importunus
184 Eastern Nicator Nicator gularis
185 Olive Thrush Turdus olivaceus
186 Cape Rock Thrush Monticola rupestris
187 Sentinel Rock Thrush Monticola explorator
188 Short-toed Rock Thrush Monticola brevipes
189 Cape Rockjumper Chaetops frenatus
190 Mountain Chat Oenanthe monticola
191 Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata
192 Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris
193 Tractrac Chat Cercomela tractrac
194 Sickle-winged Chat Cercomela sinuata
195 Karoo Chat Cercomela schlegelii
196 Southern Anteating Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora
197 Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata
198 Chorister Robin-chat Cossypha dichroa
199 Cape Robin-chat Cossypha caffra
200 White-starred Robin Pogonocichla stellata
201 Karoo Scrub-robin Erythropygia coryphaeus
202 Layard's Tit-babbler Parisoma layardi
203 African Marsh (Reed) Warbler Acrocephalus baeticatus
204 Cape Reed Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris
205 African Sedge Warbler Bradypterus baboecala
206 Knysna Warbler Bradypterus sylvaticus
207 Victorin's Warbler Bradypterus victorini
208 Yellow-throated Warbler Phylloscopus ruficapilla
209 Bar-throated Apalis Apalis thoracica
210 Long-billed Crombec Sylvietta rufescens
211 Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis
212 Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura
213 Grassbird Sphenoeacus afer
214 African Barred Warbler Calamonastes fasciolata
215 Fan-tailed (Zitting) Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
216 Cloud Cisticola Cisticola textrix
217 Grey-backed Cisticola Cisticola subruficapillus
218 Levaillant's Cisticola Cisticola tinniens
219 Neddicky (Piping Cisticola) Cisticola fulvicapillus
220 Karoo Prinia Prinia maculosa
221 Namaqua Warbler Phragmacia substriata
222 Rufous-eared Warbler Malcorus pectoralis
223 African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta
224 Fiscal Flycatcher Sigelus silens
225 Chat Flycatcher Melaenornis infuscatus
226 Cape Batis Batis capensis
227 Pririt Batis Batis pririt
228 Fairy Flycatcher Stenostira scita
229 African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis
230 Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis
231 Longtailed Wagtail Motacilla clara
232 African Pipit (Grassveld Pipit) Anthus cinnamomeus
233 Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis
234 Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys
235 African Rock Pipit Anthus crenatus
236 Orange-throated Longclaw Macronyx capensis
237 Common Fiscal Lanius collaris
238 Southern Boubou Laniarius ferrugineus
239 Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla
240 Southern Tchagra Tchagra tchagra
241 Bokmakierie Telophorus zeylonus
242 Olive Bush Shrike Telophorus olivaceus
243 European Starling Sturnus vulgaris
244 African Pied Starling Spreo bicolor
245 Black-bellied Starling Lamprotornis corruscus
246 Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio
247 Pale-winged Starling Onychognathus nabouroup
248 Cape Sugarbird Promerops cafer
249 Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa
250 Orange-breasted Sunbird Nectarinia violacea
251 Lesser DC Sunbird Nectarinia chalybea
252 Greater DC Sunbird Nectarinia afra
253 Dusky Sunbird Nectarinia fusca
254 Amethyst (Black) Sunbird Nectarinia amethystina
255 Eastern Olive Sunbird Nectarinia olivacea
256 Collared Sunbird Anthreptes collaris
257 Cape White-eye Zosterops pallidus
258 House Sparrow Passer domesticus
259 Cape Sparrow Passer melanurus
260 S. Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus
261 Cape Weaver Ploceus capensis
262 Southern Masked Weaver Ploceus velatus
263 African Yellow Weaver Ploceus subaureus
264 Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea
265 Red Bishop Euplectes orix
266 Yellow-rumped Widow Euplectes capensis
267 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild
268 Black-faced Swee Estrilda melanotis
269 Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura
270 Cape Canary Serinus canicollis
271 Forest Canary Serinus scotops
272 Cape Siskin Pseudochloroptila totta
273 Black-headed Canary Serinus alario
274 Bully Canary Serinus sulphuratus
275 Yellow Canary Serinus flaviventris
276 White-throated Canary Serinus albogularis
277 Protea Canary Serinus leucopterus
278 Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis
279 Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani

Mammal List

1 Cape Gray Mongoose Herpestes pulverulentus
2 Southern Right-Whale Balaena australis
3 Cape Fur Seal Arctocephalus pusillus
4 Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus
5 Cape Hyrax Procavia capensis
6 Burchell's Zebra Equus burchelli
7 Mountain Zebra Equus zebra
8 Eland Taurotragus oryx
9 Greater Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros
10 Gemsbok Oryx gazella
11 Black Wildebeest Connochaetes gnou
12 Red Hartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus
13 Bontebok Damliscus dorcas
14 Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus
15 Springbok Antidorcas marsupialis
16 Steenbok Raphicerus campestris
17 Damara Dik-dik Madoqua damara
18 Common Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia
19 Cape Hare Lepus capensis