Day One – 09.12.06
Arriving at our accommodation in the Serranía de Ronda, we had time to explore the surrounding area, including a river walk. Cetti’s and Fan-tailed warblers were seen in good numbers. Blackcaps were in abundance. Grey Wagtail and Dipper were seen along the river and near our accommodation. There were many White Wagtails and a Swallow was seen near to Ronda! Sardinian Warblers were common amongst the scrub bordering the river. Chiffchaff, Meadow Pipit and Spotless Starling were also seen in good numbers.
Day Two – 10.12.06
After a leisurely breakfast, we set-off into our chosen mountain site only 5kms from our hotel. Immediately we saw several Griffon Vultures and a pair of Bonelli’s Eagle, a very promising start to our day! It did not take us long to locate 15+ Ring Ouzels, the males showing well and both the northern and southern forms were seen. Many Stonechat, Black Redstart and Blue Rock Thrush were seen and 3prs of Black Wheatear. Further along our track, we located several Thekla Lark and large mixed finch flocks. Serin, Linnet, Greenfinch and particularly Goldfinch made up these large flocks. On reaching an open and cultivated area we saw several more Meadow Pipit and White Wagtail, of the later, one male was M.a.yarrelli. Reaching a high upland meadow, we again encountered several finch flocks and Meadow Pipit. Here we had good views of Sparrowhawk, Peregrine, Griffon Vulture and a flock of 50+ Chough. Returning through woodland we found typical birds of the area Mistle and Song Thrush, Blue, Great, Coal and Long-tailed Tit, Nuthatch, Short-toed Treecreeper, Jay and Great-spotted Woodpecker. A pair of Kestrels were near to a gorge area together with several Crag Martins. Shortly before reaching the end of our return along the track we found 6+ Alpine Accentor and in the hawthorn bushes we saw 10+ Siskin.
Day Three – 11.12.06
Our third day was a slow journey from the Serranía to the Doñana, via Seville. Before reaching the major Ronda to Seville road, we saw a Goshawk soaring above a Cork Oak forest. Along the way we saw several White Wagtail, Meadow Pipit and Crested Lark. Griffon Vultures were cruising the skies and near to Zahara we saw Peregrine and large flocks of Corn Bunting. Leaving the mountains behind us we reached the plains prior to Seville, where we added Raven, Red-legged Partridge, White Stork and Booted Eagle to our list. A quick visit into the centre of Seville added Lesser-Kestrel. The area around the circumnavigation route of the city produced Yellow-legged, Black-headed and Lesser Black-backed Gull, plus another Booted Eagle. Reaching our hotel we had time to visit an area of the Doñana, which yielded several flocks of Azure-winged Magpie.
Day Four – 12.12.06
We departed the hotel after enjoying a hearty breakfast and drove into the heartlands of the Doñana national park. Along our journey through Stone Pines, we saw several more flocks of Azure-winged Magpie and a number of Hoopoe. Chaffinch was abundant and we also noted Firecrest, Great and Blue Tit, Magpie, Raven, Marsh Harrier and Red Kite. We checked on the lagoon at El Rocio for wildfowl. Here we had Teal, Mallard, Pochard, Shoveler, Pintail, Coot, Moorhen, Little and Cattle Egret, Grey and Purple Heron, a small number of Greylag Geese and Marsh Harrier. A little further on towards La Rocina we had several Stonechat and Southern Grey Shrike, plus a Sparrowhawk. White Stork was now very common. Around the visitors centre at El Acebuche we had yet more Azure-winged Magpie alongside good numbers of Magpie, Robin, Chiffchaff, Chaffinch, Song Thrush, Blackbird, House Sparrow and Sardinian Warbler. Above the woodland we saw an immature Bonelli’s Eagle and several Kestrels were on the many telegraph poles. Near to Mazagón we saw Sanderling, Sandwich Tern, Slender-billed, Yellow-legged, Black-headed and Lesser Black-backed Gull. Black Redstart and Blackcaps were flitting around the bushes near to the small cliff faces. Over the Stone Pines we saw several Common Buzzard.
Day Five – 13.12.06
We visited the eastern area of the Doñana today and a mixture of habitats. The woodlands in the area south of Aznalcázar are as good as any in the park and the drive is beautiful. We again had Azure-winged Magpie, mixed finch flocks and saw several Buzzard. Reaching the end of the woodland we recorded our first Kingfisher at a small watercourse and then saw many White Stork, Crested and Skylark, Lapwing, Glossy Ibis, Little and Cattle Egret, yet more Buzzard and Marsh Harrier, Booted Eagle and Red Kite. We made our way to the visitor centre José A Valverde. Along our way we counted over 50 Kestrel and noted Black Stork, Crane, Great White Egret, Osprey, Greater Flamingo, 00’s White Stork, Grey Heron, Little Grebe, Coot, Moorhen, Red-knobbed Coot, Black-winged Stilt, Snipe, Redshank, Greenshank, Lapwing and 400+ Greylag Geese. Fan-tailed Warbler, Linnet, Corn Bunting, Meadow Pipit and Stonechats occupied most of our route. Many of the dykes held Green Sandpiper. We then headed in the direction of Villamanrique de la Condesa taking a track next to the Rio Guadiamar, almost as soon as we were on the track we had over 100 Night Heron roosting in the scrub alongside the river. Further on a pair of Black-shouldered Kite attacking 3 Buzzards treated us to an unforgettable display! As we progressed, we saw several Grey Heron, Buzzard, Marsh Harrier, Red Kite and Cormorant. As the track entered a parkland type habitat we saw Azure-winged Magpie and a Merlin in an abortive attempt to attack a finch flock. All in all an extremely good day and disproving the theory that a visit here is at a low for birders in December!
Day Six – 14.12.06
We all agreed the Doñana is a special place and the species seen were outstanding, however we looked forward to once more returning to the stunning scenery of the Serranía de Ronda! The birds proved willing almost as soon as we reached the Serranía with a good show by a pair of Golden Eagle being mobbed by a pair of Raven. We made our way to a high mountain pass and were rewarded by Ring Ouzel, Black Wheatear, Crag Martin, 100+ Chough and large numbers of Griffon Vulture. Near to Zahara reservoir we had Green and Common Sandpiper, whilst the reservoir itself had good numbers of Cormorant and Great-crested Grebe plus an unexpected House Martin in the company of Crag Martins. We visited the old roman ruins of old Ronda and on a ridge had great views of Peregrine and Griffon Vultures, Blue Rock Thrush and another unexpected bird a Northern Wheatear.
Day Seven – 15.12.06
We visited the Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves (a UNESCO biosphere park), the highest range of mountains in the area. Passing through mixed woodland to the higher reaches of the park, we had Hawfinch, Crossbill, Crested and Coal Tit, Woodlark and Crested Lark, Hoopoe, Firecrest, Mistle and Song Thrush. Reaching the high area, the dominant tree species is the famous Pinsapo (Spanish Fir), which is indigenous only to this range of mountains in the whole of Europe. Soon we had Rock and Cirl Bunting, Green Woodpecker, Fieldfare, Redwing, Ring Ouzel, Alpine Accentor, Meadow Pipit, Siskin, Black Redstart, Blue Rock Thrush, Goshawk, Kestrel and Golden Eagle (1 immature). Making our way back to our vehicle, we had a good show of the North African sub-species of Great-spotted Woodpecker (mauritanus). We wanted to visit another couple of sites, so we departed rather reluctantly given the quality of species we were finding in this wonderful park! Our next stop was at a vulture feeding station in the north of the Serranía and what a stop! Among the 200 Griffon Vulture we spotted a juvenile Black Vulture. Overhead we saw Bonelli’s Eagle and Peregrine. Our next route took us for a whistle stop tour of the famous Fuente de Piedra, where we saw many Crane, 600+ Stone Curlew the most anyone on the tour had seen together before, 2000 Greater Flamingo, 2 Little Bustard, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Lapwing, Bar-tailed Godwit, Curlew and a Hen Harrier. Leaving the area we saw many Song Thrush, Raven, Hoopoe, Buzzard and large numbers of Spotless Starling together with a small number of Starling. What a day!
Day Eight – 16.12.06
A visit to Ronda, the capital of the Serranía. A chance to wander the city and it’s beautiful old town. Looking from the bridge (Tajo), we were able to add Rock Sparrow to the tour list and also saw Crag Martin, Blue Rock Thrush, Peregrine, Chough and Kestrel.
Summary:
The total difference in the two locations of this tour made for a wonderfully diverse list of species. From the stunningly scenic Serranía de Ronda, including the Sierra de Grazalema, to the flat but haunting beauty of the Doñana, made this trip a truly memorable experience. Not only for birds, Paper White Narcissus and Broad Leaf Iris to name but a few, were a real treat and typical of the flora in the Serranía during December. Coupled to the fact that the tour was undertaken in December, then for me, this was one of the most enjoyable two destination tours I have been asked to lead.
Total Number of Species 131
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Northern Gannet Morus bassanus
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Great Egret Ardea alba
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Greylag Goose Anser anser
Eurasian Teal Anas crecca
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
Red Kite Milvus milvus
Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus
Black Vulture Aegypius monachus
Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus
Western Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis
Eurasian Buzzard Buteo buteo
Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos
Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciatus
Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Merlin Falco columbarius
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
Common Crane Grus grus
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata
Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
Eurasian Thick-knee Burhinus oedicnemus
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Sanderling Calidris alba
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Slender-billed Gull Larus genei
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Stock Pigeon Columba oenas
Common Wood-Pigeon Columba palumbus
Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
Little Owl Athene noctua
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
Hoopoe Upupa epops
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major
Green Woodpecker Picus viridis
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Thekla Lark Galerida theklae
Wood Lark Lullula arborea
Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis
Eurasian Crag-Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Common House-Martin Delichon urbica
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis
Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus
White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus
Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris
Dunnock Prunella modularis
Blue Rock-Thrush Monticola solitarius
Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus
Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula
Fieldfare Turdus pilaris
Redwing Turdus iliacus
Song Thrush Turdus philomelos
Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti
Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
European Robin Erithacus rubecula
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola
Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
Coal Tit Periparus ater
Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus
Great Tit Parus major
Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus
Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cyana
Eurasian Magpie Pica pica
Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
Eurasian Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Common Raven Corvus corax
European Starling Sturnus vulgaris
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Eurasian Siskin Carduelis spinus
European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Eurasian Linnet Carduelis cannabina
European Serin Serinus serinus
Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Rock Petronia Petronia petronia