Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
 Magellanic Plover |
 Chucao Tapaculo |
 Canary-winged Finch |
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 Black-throated Huet-huet |
 Austral Pygmy Owl |
 Rufous-breasted Seedsnipe |
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BACKGROUND AND SUMMARY OF THE TRIP.
We spent a month traversing Chile from the altiplano adjoining the Bolivian border above Putre, through the Lake District;south through arucariaMonkey Puzzle and nothofagus Southern Beech forests to Patagonia and finally to the windswept grasslands of Tierra del Fuego with the ever present spectacular backdrop of the high Andes and its snow-capped volcanoes.
We saw around 230 species which was pretty good considering we chose not to do a pelagic (having already seen many of the possible albatrosses and petrels). The list of birds we saw included the beautiful Diademed Sandpiper Plover, the curious Magellanic Plover on Tierra del Fuego, all 8 tapaculos, including both Black and Chestnut-throated Huet-huet, 3 flamingos, 3 out of the 4 seedsnipes and 4 of the 5 sheldgeese as well as other great birds like the beautiful Tawny-throated and Rufous-chested Dotterel in their breeding finery. Of course we also missed some species, most notably the endemic Slender-billed Parakeet and the rare Ruddy-headed Goose which despite our best efforts always appeared to be just Austral Parakeet and female Upland Geese. Straight-billed Earthcreeper was un-accountably missed in the gorges at Putre along with D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant (which was always going to be a bit tricky). In the south we tried long and hard but failed to find White-bellied Seedsnipe and White-throated Caracara at San Guido and Las Cumbres and Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant was just absent around Pali Aike. We had a great time and this trip report tries to provide information the at will be of use to future birders as well as a log of what we saw and where we saw it. It does this under the following headings
• Site Information and Accommodation
• Visas and Getting Around
• Acknowledgements
• Daily Account
• Bird Species List
SITE INFORMATION, ACCOMMODATION AND GUIDES
Where to Watch Birds in South America by Nigel Wheatley is a useful reference as is Pearman’s Essential Guide to Birding in Chile which, although written some 10 years ago, remains a valuable resource. In addition there is now a wealth of information on the internet and , in view of this, I do not propose to go through each site in detail, rather to give some updates which may be useful to birders visiting in the future. The order of sites is north to south more or less the order we followed on our trip. Letters/numbers in brackets refer to Pearman.
Northern Chile -Putre and the Altiplano (N3)
The Pearman book remains pretty accurate for this site. Accommodation options in Putre now include Casa Barbarita owned by an expat American, Barbara Knapton, who also provides a guiding service. Casa Barbarita was a delightful place to stay. There is also a good restaurant a few metres from her front door. We used Barbara as a guide for the first of our three day stay ( actually two half days) at very reasonable cost. Her assistance in taking us to locations for key species was invaluable, particularly in the open country of the altiplano, but she seemed less assured trying to locate and tape out passerines in the gorge at Putre. However we would certainly recommend her. Contact Barbara at www.birdingaltoandino.com
Northern Chile - Arica and the Lluta and Azapa Valleys (N2)
Arica was much, much larger and busier than we had imagined and was mobbed due to a huge charity show that was in town when we got back from Putre. We drove up the Azapa Valley (which also had a lot of traffic) looking for Maria Teresa’s Hummingbird Garden which we found using the directions below. However I think we arrived on a bad day because although there were loads of flowering plants and hummers there was also rock music being blasted out at a zillion decibels from countless speakers hanging from the trees. Not exactly the wildlife experience we were hoping for and so we lasted about 10 minutes before we gave up.
Maria Teresa’s Hummingbird Garden, on the outskirts of San Miguel de Azapa. The garden can be found when heading out of town by turning right immediately after the Hydraulics Institute. Eventually the gravel track leads to a house (c1km) with a “Hummingbird Garden” sign and all three of the valley’s Hummingbird species can be found. Morning is apparently best.
Central Chile - Embalse El Yeso (C1)
For many years this site was the place in Chile to see Diademed Sandpiper Plover in the cushion plant bogs at the far end of the reservoir but it may no longer be the “certainty” that it once was. We visited the site on 20 October and having driven the rough 23kms to the dam were considerably disappointed to find a huge boulder blocking the way. It being a further 10kms to the DSP site at the other end of the reservoir we decided not to pursue it as we had a second chance at Putre ( which fortunately delivered). One trip report for October 2005 also highlights this problem – they walked the 20km return without finding the bird and friends of ours who visited in mid November also encountered the same problem.So,access early in the season is a problem but we understand that the water authority do clear the road, so later in the year it may be possible to drive all the way. However we further understand that increased pressure on the DSP’s habitat due to grazing animals may have led to their decline or at least has made them much harder to find. ( A Simeone. pers obs).
Accommodation – We stayed in the excellent Bonaparte Hotel in Santiago as a base for our first three days in Chile but this meant that we had to negotiate our way in and out of Santiago for three days to get to birding sites which was something of a hassle. There are many hosterias and restaurants along the road to El Yeso and it would probably be better to find a place out that way.
Central Chile - Estero Lampa and El Peral ( C2 & C3)Pearman remains accurate for these sites although we could not find the scrubby chaparral at El Tabo. In addition there is a lagoon not far away in Cartagena about 1km along a dirt road behind the Shell station.
Central Chile - La Campana
This important park ( one of the best sites for White-throated Tapaculo) can be accessed from the south-west through Olmue or from the north-east side through Quillota – the two parts are very different. Pearman remains relevant for the Olmue side although we found the vegetation along the steep gravel road up to the mine to be dense and difficult to bird. However from that road and the Sendero Andinista we saw, amongst others, Chilean Pigeon, Austral Pygmy Owl, Giant Hummingbird, Green-backed Firecrown, Striped Woodpecker, Chilean Flicker, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, White-throated Treerunner and Moustached Turca. The Ocoa side was very different; much flatter with more open shrubby growth and here we saw Moustached Turca, Dusky-tailed Canastero, White-throated Tapaculo and Magellanic Horned Owl.
Accommodation – For this site and the one that follows we stayed in the quirky but comfortable Renaissance 555 hotel in Vina del Mar where there are many hotels.
Guides - We spent a day with Alejandro Simeone of Hualamo Birding & Nature Tours. A biologist specialising in Humboldt Penguins he was knowledgeable, enthusiastic and good company and his daily rate seemed very reasonable. Contact Alejandro a www.hualamo.com or e-mail a.simeone@hualamo.com
Central Chile – Vina del Mar, Renaca and the dunes/lagoons north of Concon
Pearman book remains accurate for this site but there is now an obvious parking area beside the dunes on the left as you drive north which is a good starting point. Dusky Tapaculo can be seen in the scrubby land with isolated bushes beyond the dunes.
Southern Chile - Vilches ; Altos de Lircay
Only briefly mentioned in Pearman we visited here for an afternoon and morning and were lucky enough to find Rufous-legged Owl, Chestnut-throated Huet-huet, Chucao and Ochre-flanked Tapaculo. Ask in the ranger station for the best current locations.
Accommodation - There are plenty of options but most seem to only be open during the high season from Dec-Feb when they are also likely to be packed out. We stayed in a nice chalet at a place called El Roble and were the only guests. Contact; www.turismoelroble.cl
Southern Chile - Laguna Laja (S1)
What we believe to be the road/track shown as Track A now has a gate across it and a large sign saying “Entrance Prohibited”. Whether this has always been there we don’t know but we did not try it. Location B - the forested valley with a stream running through it at the top of a steep but relatively short scree/grass slope- still holds Chestnut-throated Huet-huet. We had great views of a pair foraging around the fence that you have to climb over to access the little valley – so approach cautiously.
Accommodation - El Rincon ( nr Los Angeles ) although a long way from the park it’s a very relaxing place to stay and the food, wine and conversation are excellent. Contact; Winfried at www.elrinconchile.cl
Southern Chile - Nahuelbuta NP (S2)
Located in the hills 37kms from Angol along a twisting gravel road with many blind corners this remote park was one of the highlights of the trip. Comprising mixed nothofagus Southern Beech and auracaria Monkey Puzzle trees it was quiet, unspoiled and seemed full of birds. We found it slightly difficult to relate the map in Pearman to the situation on the ground ( the map in Wheatley's Book seems more realistic) but from the entrance to the park we drove to the deserted Visitors Centre and walked the obviously marked Piedra del Aguila Trail where Chilean Pigeon, Magellanic and Chucao Tapaculo, Black-throated Huet-huet, Des Murs Wiretail, Magellanic Woodpecker, Patagonian Tyrant, Patagonian Sierra Finch and Austral Pygmy Owl were among the key birds seen. Accommodation – Hotel Social Clube, Angol.
Southern Chile - Puyehue (S4)
Pearman remains pretty accurate for this site although his description of Ochre-flanked Tapaculo and Patagonian Tyrant as common seemed a bit overstated.
Accommodation – Comfortable log cabins at the park called Cabanas Aguas Caliente We could not find out how to book these directly and made our booking through agencies like Go Chile or Visit Chile.
Patagonia – Punta Arenas and the roads to Seno Otway and Fuerte Bulnes
Pearman does not cover this area but the short section in the Wheatley book is still relevant for the Magellanic Penguins at Seno Otway ( note; to get there take the newish dirt road to Punta Prat about 10kms north of the airport which is also signposted Pinguins and turn off right after c 25-30kms for Seno Otway). The road to Fuerte Bulnes south of Punta Arenas provides access to both Steamerduck ( look on shingle banks at the mouth of streams) Magellanic Oystercatcher and the uncommon Kelp Geese. Black-browed Albatross and Antarctic Giant Petrel can been seen further out to sea.
Patagonia – Torres del Paine
Although undeniably a very, very spectacular setting and despite seeing a good number of species we were somewhat disappointed by the birding in the park for the following reasons. Some of the better birding is actually outside the park around Serro Guido and up to Las Cumbres where species like White-throated Caracara and White-bellied Seedsnipe may be more easily found ( we didn’t). Andean Condor is much more easily seen outside the park. Species such as Magellanic Woodpecker, Magellanic Horned Owl and Torrent Duck are often described as important birds in the park but other than the woods and streams around and beyond Lago Grey we could see little likely accessible habitat and these birds can be found more easily elsewhere in Chile. Finally, hotels in the park are very expensive. There are options on the edge of the park like Hotel Rio Serrano, still hideously expensive, ($275/night for a double room) but they are along way from the park entrance and the birding areas of Serro Guido and Las Cumbres and driving back and forward on the park road becomes tedious. Of course there is always the outside chance of the mythical Austral Rail in the reed filled ponds but overall we thought it was a long way to go for relatively little return. Note that there is no regular petrol station between Puerto Natales and the park nor any guaranteed supply inside the park although Pousada Rio Serrano acts as an unofficial provider but not guaranteed.
Accommodation – Visit websites like Go Chile and Visit Chile for options.
Tierra del Fuego - General.
We decided that the best way to see some of Tierra del Fuego and its birds was to do a round trip starting and finishing in Punta Arenas . We took a car on the Transboradora Austral Broom daily ferry ( leaves 10.00am) from Punta Arenas to Porvenir where we spent the afternoon looking for Magellanic Plover with overnight in the Hotel Rosas. We then drove north for 120kms through the ( heavily grazed) grasslands to the gas town of Cerro Sombrero where we stayed in the town’s surprisingly large hotel. The following morning we drove the short distance to the ferry ( every half hour) at Puerto Espora ( Ashy-headed Geese have been seen on this road) back to the mainland where we then headed the short distance to Punta Delagada and the road to Pali Aike NP to look for the 2 Dotterel, Canary-winged Finch, Chocolate-vented Tyrant and then back to Punta Arenas through the ghost town of San Gregorio where Ashy-headed Geese may be seen. This route worked pretty well, but if you go a high clearance vehicle will give you a much easier ride.
You don’t need 4WD but a standard car just hasn’t got the clearance and if you have a problem 50kms out from Porvenir there is not much traffic and no mobile phone signal.
Tierra del Fuego - Lago Los Cisnes.
This large saline lake lies to the north of the little town of Porvenir is located close to the airport and seems to be one of the best sites in Chile for Magellanic Plover. However access can be something of a problem because the whole area is fenced off with miles of barbed wire fencing. However, from the centre of Porvenir take the street called Scythe, which heads north out of town for about 6kms to the airport. As you see the airport you will also see the huge saline lake to the left, so at the fork in the road go left and drive until you see an orange gate on the left leading to a raised boardwalk. If you choose to, climb over the gate and head down to the boardwalk you will see a rutted jeep track off to the right that goes to the edge of the lake – this is where we saw 4 Magellanic Plover. The boardwalk itself has a high voltage electric cable running underneath it so beware. Accommodation; Hotel Rosas in Porvenir.
Tierra del Fuego - Road from Porvenir to Cerro Sombrero
This dirt road runs north for 120kms to the gas town of Cerro Sombrero through dry puna and grassland, home of Rufous-fronted Dotterel, Tawny-throated Dotterel and Chocolate-vented Tyrant. The road is not well signposted but and there area couple of forks at which you should go right on both occasions. Much of the land is heavily grazed by sheep and we probably wasted a great deal of time scanning 100s of hectares of land where in retrospect there was little chance of finding the birds. However, close to Cerro Sombrero there was some better habitat as follows;
- 15kms south of CS before the road joins the main road we saw a pair of Chocolate-vented Tyrant ;
- At Km 11 south of CS there is a cattle grid where we parked the car and walked into the puna on the right of the road ( as you head south). Here we had scope of views of 3 stunning Tawny-throated Dotterel.
Accommodation – Cerro Sombrero Hotel.
Tierra del Fuego - Punta Delgada – Pali Aike Road.
Taking note of the Danger – Minefield signs we headed up the road where we found several Chocolate vented Tyrant, Canary-winged Finch( some bathing in roadside pools) and finally at Km 19, two pairs of Rufous-chested Dotterel.
VISA AND GETTING AROUND
There are no visa requirements for Chile. You will be given a Tourist Card when you arrive and it’s a very good idea not to lose it - unfortunately we did. The Tourist Card is not stapled into your passport and as you will often be asked for it( hotels photocopy them, petrol stations want them for receipt of purchase etc) it’s easy to lose and it’s a hassle to get a copy. Lonely Planet says the Chilean authorities take this piece of paper very seriously and that you have to go back to Santiago to replace it at a cost of $100. In our experience the first statement is true but the last two no longer apply. We went to the Dept of Estranajeiros in Los Angeles to see about a replacement and they sent us to the equivalent of the Chilean FBI who made us feel very awkward during the hour it took to get the copy document. Also be aware that the regular Chilean police quite like to examine documents and as you approach one on the many police checkpoints you must slow down and be waved through before you can continue. You may also be stopped at random on the road but in general if you are a tourist ( with the right bit of paper) the police were fine. Otherwise Chile was great, people were helpful and outgoing food and wine excellent but a little Spanish is useful.
Car Hire
We prearranged all our cars with Hertz which worked fine although there were plenty options at all the airports. We hired two 4WDs ( in Arica for Putre and in Santiago for El Yeso), the others being standard saloon cars. Our only real complaint was with Hertz in Punta Arenas who allowed us to hire an ordinary saloon car which in our view was completely inappropriate for the dirt roads of Seno Otway, Torres del Paine and Tierra del Fuego. We grounded the car dozens of times and had to drive much more slowly than we would have done with a high clearance vehicle in order to avoid the many potholes. The roads mentioned, particularly the latter part of the road to Seno Otway, all of Tierra del Fuego and the road within the park at Torres del Paine are not appropriate for standard cars. If you go there get a high clearance vehicle and you will have a much easier time of it. Note, again, that there is no guaranteed petrol supply in Torres del Paine.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
We are most grateful to Ricardo Matus of Birding Patagonia who we had wanted to use as guide but as he was already booked on a tour this was not possible. Despite this Ricardo was extremely helpful and, for no reward, helped out with hotel and ferry bookings in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego as well as generously sharing some site information for certain key birds. Thanks also to Mark van Biers for sharing his recording of Chestnut-throated Huet-huet and to Frank Lambert for help with site information. Our near neighbour and good friend Arthur Grosset ( check out his great website at www.arthurgrosset.com ) provided lots of useful information on site access, logistics and accommodation which helped smooth our way.
DAILY ACCOUNT.
19 October (Day 1)
Beautiful sunrise over the Andes heralded the end of the long journey from Edinburgh and we landed on time at 08.00. Unfortunately our luggage did not join us but we were assured it would arrive the following day. Picked up the hire car, drove north east to the Estero Lampa marsh which proved to be an easy introduction to birding in Chile. Varied range of marsh and wetland species; White-tufted Grebe, Chiloe Wigeon, Red Shoveler, White-winged, Red fronted and Red-gartered Coot and Spot-flanked Gallinule were easily found but the highlights were the delightful Many-coloured Rush Tyrant ( Siete Colores in Spanish) and the secretive Wren-like Rushbird. As the day grew hotter we headed back to Santiago just about negotiating the ring road and one way system to our hotel. We returned to the marsh later in the afternoon to add Plumbeous Rail.
20 October (Day 2)
Early start for the 75 km drive to Embalse El Yeso for our first chance for the much wanted Diademed Sandpiper Plover. Arriving on site we began to drive up to the reservoir our first thought was that we should have rented a high clearance vehicle but the road proved just about negotiable. Moustached Turca was an early success but Crag Chilia was absent from the crags at 4km but after a couple of further stops we found first one and then another Crag Chilia on the shrub covered rocky slopes at about 6km. Andean Condor and Black-chested Buzzard Eagle soared overhead and Grey-hooded, Mourning and Band-tailed Sierra Finch were also found on the scrubby slopes. Further up we encountered Rufous-naped and White-fronted Ground Tyrant and higher up Spot-billed Ground Tyrant.. Arriving at the reservoir we found our way blocked by a large boulder. We did not relish, nor were we prepared for, the 2okm round trip to the other end of the reservoir so, disappointingly, there was to be no DSP today and we began to head back down. Saw many of the same species on the way down adding Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant and had great views of a pair of Moustached Turca nesting in the bank below the road at 4km. Back to Santiago and overnight in the Hotel Bonaparte.
21 October (Day 3)
Made an early start for the drive to Las Cruces and El Peral. Also tried to find the site described by Pearman as El Tabo but couldn’t find the place – may have been developed since the book was published. Spent much of the day at El Peral seeing many of the same species as at Estero Lampa but adding Lake Duck and, after much searching , the diminutive Stripe-backed Bittern was added to the list. We did however miss the secretive parasitic Black-headed Duck which was seen by other birders that day. Nearby Laguna Cartagena provided a similar assortment plus breeding Coscoroba Swan and several pairs of Silvery Teal. Back at the hotel we called Alejandro Simeone to confirm his guiding services for the 23rd and checked our e-mail to discover that the Punta Arenas -Porvenir ferry on 9 November was now schedule to leave at 16.30 not 10.00 which would seriously reduce our time to look for Magellanic Plover.
22 October (Day 4 )
Drove across country to La Campana NP which we accessed from the Olmue side on a dreadful road. It was very foggy when we arrived but it slowly cleared. Several Chilean Pigeon flew over and we had good views and photos) of Moustached Turca but otherwise birding was slow. We slowly drove the road up to the abandoned mine but the vegetation on the scrubby hillsides was quite dense making it difficult to find the few birds that seemed to be calling. We heard White-throated Tapaculo on several occasions but always too far away to have a hope of finding it. Thorn-tailed Rayadito proved very responsive to playback and the delightful White-throated Treerunner was also seen well. A pair of Striped Woodpecker proved to be the only ones of the trip and 3 Chilean Flicker showed well. Not much else was seen and when we reached the mine we headed back down to walk the Sendero Andanista on the other side of the stream. The SA trail also proved to be pretty quiet but playback brought in Austral Pygmy Owl giving great views. Late afternoon headed off to Vina del Mar for the comfortable time warp that is the Renaissance 555 hotel where we met up with Alejandro and had some great fish at Delicias del Mar.
23 October (Day 5 )
Departed Vina with Alejandro at 06.30 and headed north along the coast stopping at the large rocks beside the University faculty on the beach at Renaca. This proved to be a great stop with Chilean Seaside Cinclodes on the seawall, indeed nesting in it, hundreds of Inca Tern, Peruvian Pelican, Peruvian Booby, Humboldt Penguin, and Grey Gull before we headed further north to Concon and to the dunes bordered by the railway line north of the R. Aconcagua ( C5 in Pearman). This yielded Great Shrike Tyrant, Dusky Tapaculo, Blackish and American Oystercatcher, Greater & Lesser Yellowlegs, one Willet, and Baird’s Sandpiper. Black Skimmer at the lagoon edge and male Spectacled Tyrant were also seen. On to La Campana where there seemed to be Moustached Turca all over the place, and a couple of calling White-throated Tapaculo. The tapaculos promptly shut up and it then took us 4 hours to finally see a pair almost back where we had started at the picnic site having tramped for kilometres through the park However while tramping we did find Magellanic Horned Owl at its daytime roost and a couple of the endemic Dusky-tailed Canastero. Having seen all the key endemics we started to go back to Vina until Alejandro suggested we head north pastQuintera to a lagoon next to one of the biggest copper smelters in the world where we closed the day with several species of duck coming in to roost. including our first Spectacled Teal.
25 October (Day 7 )
After a ridiculously confused check-in process which almost caused us to miss the flight (despite being in the airport 1.5 hours beforehand ) we arrived at Arica airport, picked up the hire car and drove up to Putre arriving late afternoon at the comfortable Casa Barbarita right in the centre of this old-style Andean village. With what was left of the day we birded the Wet Gorge A below the army barracks. Saw some nice birds including Andean Hillstar, Mountain Parakeet (in flight), White-throated Earthcreeper, White-winged Cinclodes, White-browed Chat-Tyrant, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, Blue & Yellow Tanager. Altitude not too much of a problem, slight headache so after dinner in the local restaurant off to bed dreaming of Diademed Sandpiper.
26 October (Day 8 )
Departed 07.15 and drove up the old road to the main highway, stopping after a relatively short distance at a bofedales bog on the left of the road where BK had recently seen a pair of Diademed Sandpiper Plover. On a cold, frosty, windy morning several Grey-breasted Seedsnipe were quickly found along with Rufous-naped and White-fronted Ground Tyrant. After about 1.5 hours following the contour of the slope above the bog with no hint of DSP we gradually went round the hillside away from the road where to our great delight we found a pair of beautiful Diademed Sandpiper Plover. While clearly aware of our presence they continued to feed actively, apparently fairly unconcerned and so we watched them through the scope for some time. Following this big success we headed back to the main highway stopping just beyond the police checkpoint. Here we had a fantastic morning where, in the glorious surroundings of the altiplano with snow capped volcanoes as a backdrop we saw Chilean, Andean & James Flamingo, Crested Duck, Andean Goose, Puna Ibis, Puna Plover, Andean Lapwing, Plain-breasted Earthcreeper and Bright-rumped Yellow Finch. Very content but now with a serious headache at this higher altitude we returned to Putre. In the afternoon we drove all the way up to Lake Chungara but by the time we arrived the weather had seriously deteriorated with driving sleet and snow in the cold wind. Stopped long enough to tick Giant Coot and Puna Teal before heading back down. Had a look around Parinacota and spent some time scanning the altiplano for Puna Rhea which we had not yet seen. No luck and so we drove back to Putre taking the old road where we saw Ornate Tinamou. Once back in Putre we walked down behind the school where at dusk we managed to tape out Peruvian Pygmy Owl, which brought to an end this excellent day.
27 October (Day 9 )
Out at 07.00 on another frosty morning to look for Rufous–breasted Seedsnipe on the bog accessed by the boardwalk on the opposite side of the road from the CONAF HQ at Las Cuevas. Quickly found a bird a long way off which fortunately hung around long enough for us to get a lot closer. Flushed with success we returned to Putre where we were to bird the Wet Gorge A with BK. Unfortunately this turned out to be a very disappointing session where BK had the wrong tapes, no tapes, minidisc failures and, it seemed to us, we spent a long time in the wrong place. In the afternoon we headed out on our own again up to the police checkpoint and along the track to the right. Spent a long time looking for Whit-tailed Shrike-Tyrant and Puna Tinamou both of which are recorded in this area but came up with neither. However as we drove along the road and stopped on a white borax mound we did find 10 Puna Rhea a long way out on the altiplano. Returning late afternoon to Putre we headed down to the Wet Gorge A on our own and were lucky enough to find a bunch of birds in the early evening including Cinereous and Tanmarugo Conebill, Golden-billed Saltator, Canyon Canastero and Oasis Hummingbird as well as many of the commoner species, although unaccountably we missed Straight-billed Earthcreeper. Later that evening we walked to the edge of town where the supposedly easy Band-winged Nightjar failed to appear leaving us to regret not having tried the previous nights!
28 October (Day 10 )
Out at 06.30 for the bofedales bog with the boardwalk on the right side of the road next to the CONAF building at Las Cuevas. Grey-breasted Seedsnipe showed early and we flushed Puna Snipe but were unable to relocate it. Headed back down for final look at the magical Diademed Sandpiper Plover, which we found in exactly the same place as the day before. Back to Putre, bade farewell to BK and left at 11.00 headed for Arica and straight for the hummingbird garden in the Azapa Valley. Arica came as something of a surprise being much bigger than we had imagined but eventually we found the Hummingbird Garden. There were flowers everywhere, a testament to the planting that had been done but the whole place was utterly ruined by rock music being cranked out at about a zillion decibels from speakers that seemed to hang from every tree. Hummers there were but we hated the place and left quickly. Perhaps it’s as well we did leave early because when we got to Arica and tried to make it to our fancy hotel on the beach we found that Arica was in the grip of the Teleton Charity Weekend and the place was jumping, streets were closed off and the place a shambles. Eventually found our way to the hotel only to be stopped by the police who waved through 3 enormous double decker coaches filled with Z list “ celebrities” doing their bit for charity. Couldn’t get the car into the hotel and when we walked in it was impossible to get into the lobby never mind check in so we gave up, drove back to the airport dropped off the hire car and let a taxi driver find us a crap hotel back in the city where we spent a noisy night.
29 October (Day 11 )
Got up at 04.45 just as the town was quietening down and headed to the airport for the flight back to Santiago which arrived on time and by 11.30 we were on our way south to Talca and then on to Vilches to access the RN Altos de Lircay, home of the Chestnut-throated Huet-huet and insurance for us in case it was not at Laguna Laja. The last few kilometres of the road from Vilches up the valley to Lircay were a bit bumpy for our standard car but we arrived at the hosteria El Roble around 3.00pm where we were the only guests and thus had the pick of the chalets. Straight up the remaining 10kms to the park where we talked in poor Spanish with the CONAF warden who was really knowledgeable and keen to help and he directed us to an area upstream from the entrance about 400 metres beyond the CONAF building and Visitors Centre for the Huey-huet but not before he had pointed out the roosting area for Rufous-legged Owl which unfortunately was not at home. Walked the trail hearing Chucao and Ochre-flanked Tapaculo but saw neither and could find no trace of the Huet-huet. Somewhat disappointed we returned to the Visitors Centre and to our great surprise quickly found a roosting Rufous-legged Owl. This was a great bonus and would save us padding around trying to tape one in at night.
30 October (Day 12 )
Staff at El Roble very accommodating in giving us a 5.30 breakfast and by 06.45 on a cold damp and misty morning we were on site further up the stream valley than the previous day. Very, very quiet but at 07.15 we heard the Chestnut-throated Huet-huet call very close to us; too close in fact because as we stepped from cover towards the sound we flushed a bird which would have given great views but which then promptly disappeared. Played the tape and got a response over the next few minutes and had good views of this wary bird as it circled us hopping up to perch and call occasionally. Chucao called intermittently but never showed and Ochre-flanked Tapaculo called persistently from the dense bamboo over the stream but never showed . Having seen this key endemic was great and so we headed off to our next stop the Hotel El Rincon south of Los Angeles where we arrived late in the afternoon to comfortable accommodation and a really good dinner.
31 October (Day 13 )
El Rincon is a great place to stay but its about 100kms ( on good empty roads) from Laguna Laja so we headed off early arriving at the park entrance around 06.45. We parked outside the entrance and walked up the grassy/scree slope ( 5 minute scramble) to the fenced off entrance to a narrow wooded valley where Huet-huet has been seen in the past. Not really not expecting to find the bird we were careless in approaching the fence and flushed a Chestnut-throated Huet-huet which had been feeding in the open. However we found a spot sat down played the tape and waited and soon had a pair of very vocal birds responding. We then sat quietly and one of the birds came by at 2 metres range scratching the earth and feeding unaware of our presence. We watched for about an hour before going back to the car and into the park where we slowly drove up to the lake beneath the snow covered volcano. Spectacular setting and among the new species were Dark-bellied Cinclodes, Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, Dark-faced Ground Tyrant.
01 November (Day 14 )
Very early start for the drive to Laguna Laja but despite this the motorway and roads were already busy with people on the move. This turned out to be All Saints Day where it seemed that virtually the entire local population was walking to or from the local cemetery with flowers, food and gifts for departed relatives. Quite a sight. At the park there was no sign of the Huet-huet and very soon the day turned to low cloud and heavy rain. A pair of Spectacled Duck flew over but were lost to sight over the dam wall and with the morning now totally miserable we headed back to El Rincon. We had known for a few days that Moira no longer had her “Tourist Card” ( probably lost when her passport was being photocopied) and when we read in the Lonely Planet that the authorities took this very seriously we decided we need to do something about it. LP says that you have to go back to Santiago but our host at El Rincon called the local Justice Minister who said that we need only go to the Dept of Estranjeiros in Los Angeles and they could fix it.
02 November (Day 15 )
Off to the Dept of Estranjeiros in Los Angeles who unfortunately could not fix it and said we would have to go to the Chilean equivalent of the FBI who would easily resolve the matter. Well, resolve it they did but not before enduring a very uncomfortable hour with an arrogant, bryllcreamed shoulder padded, double-breasted spook in what felt like a very real throwback to the days of authoritarian rule. However we had the paper and were legal again and on our way to Angol, our base for Nahuelbuta NP. Arrived in Angol early afternoon and drove the tedious 37 kilometres of bad road up to the park. Well worth it though because between 03.00 and 06.00 on a very cold afternoon on the Piedra Aguila Trail we had male and female Magellanic Woodpecker, 5 Chucao, 3 different Magellanic Tapaculo, heard several Black-throated Huet-huet and taped out 3 Des Murs Wiretail. A great little session in a lovely park.
03 November (Day 16 )
Back in the park at 07.30 where we walked the Piedra Aguila Trail through beautiful nothofagus and araucaria forest until 1.00pm seeing virtually all the possible species 4 Black-throated Huet-huet ( 1 single and three feeding together just off the trail) 2 male Magellanic Woodpecker, several Chucao Tapaculo, 2 Magellanic Tapaculo, Chilean Pigeon, Des Murs Wiretail, Austral Parakeet and Patagonian Sierra Finch. We missed Slender-billed Parakeet ( note Hornbuckle states they are no longer found here) but it is a great park and one of the highlights of the trip. Back down to Angol where we spent a lazy afternoon repacking.
04 November (Day 17 )
Made the long drive south to Puyehue NP and arrived mid-afternoon to find the place heaving with people ( it was Saturday) including about 100 kids who regrettably were bunked up in the chalets all around us. Check-in staff at Puyehue were also less than helpful. Not a good start. Dumped our stuff, made sure the stove in the chalet was stacked with wood and headed off towards the Argentinean Border. We were lucky to find a pair of Torrent Duck from each of the international bridges across the major streams and another pair at the waterfall 4kms from the border. Parked just beyond the waterfall and hopped the fence to walk along the Sendero Chile where we heard Ochre-flanked Tapaculo but could not see it but did see a couple of Des Murs Wiretail. Back to join the hordes of tourists.
05 November (Day 18 )
Out at 07.00 on a bitterly cold morning to walk the short trail 50 metres beyond the bridge that cuts across the hairpin bend made by the gravel road. We had 2 Black-throated Huet-huet at the start of the trail, and back on the gravel road round the corner saw Magellanic Tapaculo and heard many Chucao. The cold misty morning had by now turned to rain so went back to the chalet for breakfast; then headed up to the ski lodge at Antillanca. Very quiet – not a single duck on any of the lagunas and by the time we reached the lodge it was pouring with rain making any attempt on the crater Raihuen impossible. In the afternoon we drove slowly to Entre Lago scanning fields for Slender-billed Parakeet but to no avail. Back up to the Argentinean border seeing 3 male and 1 female Torrent Duck from the second bridge. Torrential rain brought the day to an early close and we retuned to enjoy the pleasures of a hot spring bath in the thermal pools.
06 November (Day 19 )
A bright cold morning was a huge improvement on the previous night and we set out at 06.30 to search the lower part of the park for Ochre-flanked Tapaculo but failed to find any trace. After breakfast drove up to Antillanca and the Crater Raihuen under the slopes of the snow covered volcano although the heavy rain meant that the last few kilometres were a slightly dodgy proposition. However make it we did and were immediately rewarded with a migrating (?) White-throated Hawk being mobbed by Chimango Caracara.Walked the crater but saw little except Bar-winged Cinclodes but as we returned we found a flock of 20 or so of the very attractive Yellow-bridled Finch. Birding stops on the way down produced several Des Murs Wiretail and good photos of Chucao and Black-throated Huet-huet but no Ochre-flanked Tapaculo – where the hell is it?? In the afternoon drove up to the Sendero Chile seeing more Des Murs Wiretail and a nice surprise in the shape of the rarely seen Chilean Cat or KodKod, the smallest felid in the western hemisphere,sitting on a crash barrier at the road side. Of Ochre-flanked Tapaculo there was no sign.
07 November (Day 20 )
Tried one final time for the Ochre-flanked Tapaculo with the usual result before leaving Puyehue to drive south to Puerto Montt via Lake Lanquille where the coffee, cake, lake and Volcan Osorno were spectacular. Looked for Trudeau's Tern but without any gen it was a shot in the dark. Finally arrived in Puerto Montt to find that the Hertz place was no longer downtown but in an inaccessible industrial park somewhere off the motorway which took us the best part of a hour to find. After some heated discussion the unhelpful Hertz people finally agreed to give us a ride back to town.
08 November (Day 21 )
Early morning flight to Punta Arenas was spectacular and on arrival and picked up the Hertz car which looked and sounded crap. ( In the event it was crap and utterly unsuited to the dirt roads in Patagonia) Expressed concern, offered to pay for a different car with higher clearance but as this could not be done for 2 days we headed off to Seno Otway grounding the car a number of times even on this moderate dirt road. On a sunny afternoon but blowing a gale Magellanic Penguin showed very well as did a moulting King Penguin and we saw several Correndera Pipit. Upland Geese were everywhere and we found 3 beautiful Ashy-headed Geese in amongst them. Back to Punta Arenas, checked into the Calafate hotel before heading south on the road to Fuerte Bulnes in search of Kelp Geese and Steamerducks. Not far down the road at the mouth of the Rio Trez Brazos we found 10 Steamerduck on a small spit which we determined to be 8 Flying and 2 Flightless Steamerduck.. Drove on to about three quarters of the way to Fuerte Bulnes seeing 2 further pairs of Flightless Steamerduck, Rock Shag, Imperial Shag, Magellanic Oystercatcher, Chilean Skua, 20 Black-browed Albatross and 2 Southern Giant Petrel offshore. Violent squalls put paid to the day around 4.00pm.
09 November (Day 22 )
Pretty mixed night sleep thanks to yelling kids in the hotel and boy racers on the street outside – thought USD77 for the privilege was a bit steep but the staff were very helpful. Departed Punta Arenas on the ferry for Tierra del Fuego seeing many Black-browed Albatross, Chilean Skua and 250+ Imperial Shag but despite lots of scanning failed to find any Diving Petrel. On arrival at Porvenir checked the gulls on the beach seeing mainly Kelp Gull and several Dolphin Gull.. Checked in at the Hotel Rosas and after some messing about trying to find our bearings we got to the airport and saw the huge Lago los Cisnes – site for Magellanic Plover. The lake is massive and our hearts sank at the prospect of finding these enigmatic waders in such a large area. Luck was with us however because, after scaling the gate and walking down to the lake edge, we immediately saw 4 Magellanic Plover feeding on the lake shore along with 20 Baird's Sandpiper. The birds were feeding in the gravel at the lake edge by turning circles and stirring up the sand beneath their feet – presumably disturbing small insects. Curious behaviour- their action reminded us of the circling feeding motion of the water based phalaropes. Spent the remainder of the day driving the roads around Porvenir to no good effect. Celebrated the Plovers with King Crab and Chilean Sauvignon Blanc for dinner.
10 November (Day 23 )
Drove from Porvenir across northern Tierra del Fuego to Cerro Sombrero the journey of 127kms taking nearly 6 hours partly due to driving slowly to avoid breaking the car but also because of the countless stops made to scan the Patagonian steppe for dotterel. This process proved fruitless largely because we spent ages scanning overgrazed grassland with sheep where, on reflection, there were probably no dotterel. However we saw Scale-throated Earthcreeper, Short-billed Miner, South American Snipe and approaching Cerro Sombrero found a pair of Chocolate-vented Tyrant. Checked into the surprisingly large hotel with its annexed dormitory (which was occupied by about 75 school kids – what is about this trip!) and headed out to better looking habitat about 10kms from town that we had seen as we drove in. Fortune again favoured us because after a considerable amount of walking we found 3 stunning Tawny-throated Dotterel. Lesser Seedsnipe and more Chocolate-vented Tyrant showed well. Good dinner with excellent Misseones red wine and off to bed but forced to get up after midnight and yell at the teachers to stop their kids playing 37a side football outside our room!!
11 November (Day 24 )
Drove up to Bahia Azul for the short crossing to Punta Delagada. Regrettably no diving-petrels but a pod of beautiful Commerson's Dolphin rode the bow waves. Taking careful note of the Danger Minefield signs we drove along the road to Pali Aike seeing more Lesser Seedsnipe and Chocolate-vented Tyrant and then a couple of Canary-winged Finch bathing in roadside pool. With one of the major targets for the day secured we continued scanning and were rewarded at Km 19 where pair of Canary-winged Finch showed really well as did 2 pairs of Rufous-chested Dotterel, one nesting the other displaying.. Of Cinnamon-bellied Ground Tyrant we could find no trace. Headed slowly back to Punta Arenas looking for Ruddy-headed Geese in particular around San Gregorio but with no luck. Checked back in to the Calafate and were relieved to receive the hotel vouchers for Torres del Paine ( kindly arranged by Ricardo Matus) and then back out on the road to Fuerte Bulnes. The road was very busy with weekend campers and we almost turned back at Km 45 but pressed on and about 2 kms further on found a pair of elegant Kelp Geese on a small kelp covered rock at the mouth of the Rio Blanco. Beautiful birds. Flying Steamerduck and a Short-eared Owl completed the day and we returned for a quieter night in the Calafate.
12 November (Day 25 )
A dull start as we drove the Punta Prat road looking for Ruddy-headed Geese but as the drizzle turned to heavy rain we abandoned the quest, drove north for 3 hours to Puerto Natales and on to Torres del Paine. The last section of 150kms was a real pain due to roadwork on the new road. Saw a pair of Ashy-headed Geese and several Andean Condor before turning off to our hotel Hosteria Mirador del Paine just south of the park entrance where steady rain brought the day to a close – the first day of the trip with no new birds.
13 November (Day 26 )
Drove north past the park entrance and on through Sierra Guido about c.60km up to Las Cumbres in the Sierra Bagueles in search of the difficult White-bellied Seedsnipe which would have given us the complete family of seedsnipes on this trip. Like others who have ventured there we were unsuccessful and after 3-4 hours of looking we headed back towards the park entrance scanning all the while for White-throated Caracara , usually seen in the grasslands around San Guido. Lots of Darwin’s Rhea but no caracara and so we entered the park enjoying the spectacular granite monoliths “The Horns of Paine” as we made our way to the Hosteria Rio Serrano some 35kms away on the other side of the park At the uninspiring tourist hotel we discovered there is no regular petrol supply anywhere in the park but that the Pousada Serrano sometimes had some for sale. Fortunately they had.
14 November (Day 27 )
Had a look around Pousada Serrano where Patagonian Mockingbird is sometimes seen but we didn’t find one but did have great views of the colourful Spectacled Duck in a marshy pond close by. Drove the atrocious road to Lago Grey to admire the glacier in the howling wind before heading back out to Serro Guido seeing several Southern Caracara but no White-throated Caracara. Returning to the park we stopped at the marsh beside the entrance gate but unsurprisingly failed to hear or see Austral Rail.
15 November (Day 28)
Horrid grey, wet morning with poor visibility. Got away at 11.30 but with little chance of the missing seedsnipe or caracara inside the park combined with the poor weather there was a definite end of trip feel to the day. The rain gave way to snow and it was bitterly cold, but we did see Flying Steamerduck, Chilean Flamingo and a flock of17 Ashy-headed Geese on the “golf course” at the hotel were a nice sight. By this time however the cold wind and snow made it difficult to stay out for long so we called it a day. In the bar at night met some Scottish/Canadians who spoke highly of place called the Estancia Rio Penitente 100kms north of Punta Arenas which sounded a much better conclusion than another night in the Calafate. Settled by Scottish pioneers in the 1890’s it was now a hotel.
16 November (Day 29 )
Left Torres del Paine and headed back towards Puerto Natales and on towards Punta Arenas. Discovered that by good fortune the Estancia Rio Penitente was almost directly opposite the gravel road towards Gallego Chico; an apparently good habitat of unspoiled Patagonian steppe which might offer the chance of Cinnamon-bellied Ground Tyrant and both Dotterels. Maybe we were unlucky, maybe it was the strong cold wind but we ventured twice along this road for about 25kms and saw virtually no birds. However, despite a slightly disappointing last couple of days overall it had been a great trip and so we retired contentedly to the peace and quiet of the1920s time warp that was the Estancia Rio Penitente for an excellent dinner and a great nights sleep.
17 November (Day 30 )
Began the long journey home Punta Arenas>Puerto Montt>Santiago> Madrid>Birmingham> Edinburgh where we arrived 32 hours later.
Species in Capitals = Endemic
STRUTHIONIFORMES: Rheidae
Lesser Rhea (Rhea pennata)
Considered by some authorities to be split into two species which, in Chile, with one form in the altiplano of the north of the country and the other in Patagonia. We recorded both forms as follows:
• Darwin’s Rhea (R.p.pennata)
Common in the grasslands of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. Seen daily in numbers in these locations.
• Puna Rhea ( R.p.tarapencis)
Much less common than the previous form; we spent a long time looking in the altiplano above Putre before finding a group of 10 along the dirt road just before the checkpoint 4kms south of Chucuyo.
TINAMIFORMES: Tinamidae
Ornate Tinamou (Nothoprocta ornata)
A pair seen on the old road from Putre heading uphill to the main highway on 26/10.
CHILEAN TINAMOU (Nothoprocta perdicaria)
A single in fields near Puyehue on 05/11.
SPHENISCIFORMES: Spheniscidae
King Penguin ( Aptenoydes patagonicus)
A moulting individual at the Seno Otway penguin colony on 08/11.
Humboldt Penguin (Spheniscus humboldti)
A few on the large rocks at Renaca at the northern end of Vina del Mar on 23&24/10.
Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus)
About 20 birds at the penguin colony at Seno Otway on 08/11 and a few pairs in the Straits of Magellan during the crossing to Tierra del Fuego on 09/&11/11.
PODICIPEDIFORMES: Podicipedidae
Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps)
A couple at Laguna El Peral on 21/10.
White-tufted Grebe (Rollandia rolland)
At the Estero Lampa marsh on 19/10, El Peral and Laguna Cartagena on 22,23&24/10.
Great Grebe (Podiceps major)
At El Peral and Laguna Cartagena on 22,23&24/10, also at Puyehue on 09&10/11.
Silvery Grebe (Podiceps occipitalis)
At El Peral on 21/10, Laguna Cartagena on 24/10 and in the snow at Lake Chungara on 26/10.
PROCELLARIIFORMES: Diomedeidae
Black-browed Albatross ( Thalassarche melanopris)
Up to 20 seen from the road to Fuerte Bulnes on 08/11 and30+ individuals during the crossing from Punta Arenas to Porvrnir on 09/11.
PELECANIFORMES: Pelecanidae
Peruvian Pelican (Pelecanus thagus)
A few on the large rocks at Renaca at the northern end of Vina del Mar on 23&24/10.
PELECANIFORMES: Sulidae
Peruvian Booby (Sula variegata)
Many on the large rocks at Renaca at the northern end of Vina del Mar on 23&24/10.
PELECANIFORMES: Phalacrocoracidae
Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)
Common and seen regularly throughout the trip in both coastal and inland waters.
Rock Shag (Phalacrocorax magellanicus)
Several pairs seen at the waters edge along the road to Fuerte Bulnes on 08&11/11and around Porvenir.
Imperial Shag (Phalacrocorax atriceps)
Common from the road to Fuerte Bulnes on 08&11/11 and around Porvenir and the Straits of Magellan.
Red-legged Cormorant (Phalacrocorax gaimardi)
Several on the large rocks at Renaca at the northern end of Vina del Mar on 23&24/10.
CICONIIFORMES: Ardeidae
Cocoi Heron (Ardea cocoi)
Uncommon, seen only at the Estero Lampa marsh on 19/10.
Great Egret (Ardea alba)
Only at the Estero Lampa marsh on 19/10.
Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)
Widespread in central and northern Chile.
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
Commonly seen in pastures with cattle in central Chile
Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)
In fresh water marshes in the north east at El Peral and Laguna Cartagena on 21,23&24/10.
Stripe-backed Bittern (Ixobrychus involucris)
After a lot of searching one individual seen well in the reedbed at El Peral on 21/10.
CICONIIFORMES: Threskiornithidae
Black-faced Ibis (Theristicus melanopis)
Absent from the north, but abundant throughout central and south Chile to Tierra del Fuego.
Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi)
Fairly common on the altiplano above Putre and around Parinacotta.
PHOENICOPTERIFORMES: Phoenicopteridae
Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis)
Seen in good numbers feeding in shallow lakes on the altiplano above Putre near the police checkpoint on 26&27/10 with smaller flocks in TDP and throughout Patagonia from 12-17/11.
Andean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus andinus)
About 20 feeding in shallow lakes on the altiplano above Putre near the police checkpoint on 26&27/10
Puna Flamingo (Phoenicopterus jamesi)
About 20 feeding in shallow lakes on the altiplano above Putre near the police checkpoint on 26&27/10.
ANSERIFORMES: Anatidae
Black-necked Swan (Cygnus melanocorypha)
Apparently common and widespread but absent from the altiplano. Seen regularly in a variety of waterbodies.
Coscoroba Swan (Coscoroba coscoroba)
A pair with 2 young at Laguna Cartagena on 21/10 and on shallow lakes in Tierra del Fuego on 09&10/11.
Andean Goose (Chloephaga melanoptera)
Fairly common on the altiplano and cushion bogs above Putre.
Upland Goose (Chloephaga picta)
Handsome and abundant throughout Patagonia
Kelp Goose (Chloephaga hybrida)
A pair found after much searching along the road to Fuerte Bulnes. Finally encountered at the mouth of the Rio Blanco some 45kms south of Punta Arenas on 11/11.
Ashy-headed Goose (Chloephaga poliocephala)
A beautiful sheldgoose. A pair first seen in the rain on the road to Seno Otway on 08/11and occasionally thereafter but most easily at the Hotel Rio Serrano at TdP where they wander about the stupid “golf course”. We counted 17 in a flock in the grassland behind the hotel.
Flightless Steamerduck (Tachyeres pteneres)
8 of this spevies seen in the company of 2 of the following species at the mouth of the Tres Brazos on the road to Fuerte Bulnes on 08/11, followed by a pair in a fresh water laguna on Tierra del Fuego on 09/11. A further pair seen on the road to Fuerte Bulnes on 11/11 and finally a single bird at TdP on15/11.
Flying Steamerduck (Tachyeres patachonicus)
A pair seen in the company of the above species at the mouth of the Tres Brazos on the road to Fuerte Bulnes on 08/11, followed by two further pairs perched on small rocks further south from the same road.
Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata)
From Puyehue 04/11a pair from the first major bridge ( GolGol1)on the international highway to the Argentinean border on 04/11 , a further pair at the next major bridge and finally another pair at the waterfall 4kms from the border. Two further pairs seen and a spare male at the second bridge on 05/11.
Chiloe Wigeon (Anas sibilatrix)
Fairly common and observed throughout the trip on freshwater lakes, ponds and marshes.
Speckled Teal (Anas flavirostris)
First seen on 23/10 north of Vina del Mar at Ventianas(?) Lagoon by a huge copper smelter, on the altiplano above Putre 26&27/10 and throughout Patagonia where it bcame increasingly common.
Spectacled Duck (Anas specularis)
A pair by the dam at Laguna Laja on 01/11, another pair in the small marsh at Pousada Rio Serrano in TdP on 14/11 and another pair on 15/11 in a roadside pond in the park.
Crested Duck (Anas specularioides)
Common, from the Andean lakes and bogs above Putre to the lowland lakes and ponds in Patagonia.
Yellow-billed Pintail (Anas georgica)
Fairly common and observed throughout the trip on freshwater lakes, marshes and brackish ponds.
Puna Teal (Anas puna)
Only observed in the snow at Lake Chungara above Putre on 26/10.
Cinnamon Teal (Anas cyanoptera)
Several at Estero Lampa on 19/10 an at Ventianas(?) Lagoon north of Concon on 23/10.
Red Shoveler (Anas platalea)
Fairly common and seen throughout Chile except in the altiplano.
Lake Duck (Oxyura vittata)
Seen at El Peral on 21/10 and Laguna Cartagena on 24/10.
FALCONIFORMES: Cathartidae
Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)
Seen regularly in farmland throughout central Chile and in the Lluta Valley. Absent from Patagonia
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)
Seen regularly throughout Chile particularly in the Lluta Valley. Occurs in Patagonia
Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus)
A pair circling over El Yeso on 20/10, two further pairs at Laguna Laja on 31/10 and daily in and around Torres del Paine in Patagonia where we saw up to fifteen birds in a day with a maximum of 11 at any time.
FALCONIFORMES: Accipitridae
White-tailed Kite (Elanus leucurus)
A couple of birds seen over farmaland adjacent to Estero Lampa on 19/10
Cinereous Harrier (Circus cinereus)
In Tierra del Fuego near Cerro Sombrero on 10/11, Pali Aike NP on 11/11 and in grassland around TdP.
Harris's Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus)
In fields near La Campan on 23/10 and on the road to Nahuelbuta on 03/11.
Variable( Red-backed) Hawk ( Buteo polyosoma)
Seen regularly throughout the trip in a variety of habitats.
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus)
A pair at El Yeso on 20/10, La Campana on 23/10 and on the altiplano above Putre on 26/10.
White-throated Hawk (Buteo albigula)
A single bird ( on migration) over the Crater Rahuein at Puyehue on 06/11.
FALCONIFORMES: Falconidae
Mountain Caracara (Phalcoboenus megalopterus)
A couple at El Yeso on 20/10 and one or two birds seen daily above Putre.
Southern Caracara (Caracara plancus)
Seen regularly during the second half of the trip from Laguna Laja south to Tierra del Fuego.
Chimango Caracara (Milvago chimango)
Abundant from Santiago south to Tierra del Fuego
American Kestrel (Falco sparverius)
Common; seen throughout the trip.
GALLIFORMES: Odontophoridae
California Quail (Callipepla californica)
Abundant.
GRUIFORMES: Rallidae
Plumbeous Rail (Pardirallus sanguinolentus)
Seen easily at Estero Lampa on 19/10 and El Peral on 21/10
Spot-flanked Gallinule (Gallinula melanops)
At Estero Lampa on 19/10, El Peral on 21/10 and at Ventianas(?) Lagoon on 23/10.
White-winged Coot (Fulica leucoptera)
At Estero Lampa on 19/10,El Peral on 21/10, and at Ventianas(?) Lagoon on 23/10
Slate-colored (Andean)Coot (Fulica ardesiaca)
In ponds on the altiplano above Putre and at Lake Chungara on 26/10
Red-gartered Coot (Fulica armillata)
At El Peral on 21/10, Ventianas(?) Lagoon on 23/10 and Laguna Cartagena on 24/10.
Red-fronted Coot (Fulica rufifrons)
At El Peral on 21/10, Ventianas(?) Lagoon on 23/10 and Laguna Cartagena on 24/10.
Giant Coot (Fulica gigantea)
Only at Lake Chungara on 26/10.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Haematopodidae
Magellanic Oystercatcher (Haematopus leucopodus)
Seen regularly in small numbers throughout Patagonia at shallow ponds and on grassland and shore.
Blackish Oystercatcher (Haematopus ater)
Only seen on the inshore rocks at Renaca north of Vina Del Mar on 23&24/10.
American Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliatus)
Only seen on the inshore rocks at Renaca north of Vina Del Mar on 23&24/10.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Recurvirostridae
White-backed Stilt (Himantopus melanurus)
Seen regulary in marshes, pond edges and flooded fields in northern and central Chile.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Burhinidae
Peruvian Thick-Knee (Burhina superciliaris)
Up to 20 birds in a stubble fields in the Lluta Valley close to Arica on 28/10.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Charadriidae
Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis)
Abundant.
Andean Lapwing (Vanellus resplendens)
Only in the altiplano where it seemed umcommon. Two birds on 26/10 were the only record.
Puna Plover (Charadrius alticola)
Only in the altiplano where it seemed umcommon. Three birds on 26/10 were the only record.
Two-banded Plover (Charadrius falklandicus)
Seen regularly throughout ponds and grasslands of Patagonia where it breeds.
Rufous-chested Dotterel (Charadrius modestus)
One of the highlights of the trip where, after much serarching through the grasslands of Patagonia we eventually found one pair nesting and another pair displaying nearby at Km 19 on the Punta Delgada to Pali Aike road.
Diademed Sandpiper Plover (Phegornis mitchellii)
Stunning views on 26&28/10 of this dazzling species in a bofedales bog above Putre.
Tawny-throated Dotterel (Oreopholus ruficollis)
Surely one of the most stunning birds. After 5.5 hours driving and scanning the grasslands of Tierra del Fuego we finally found 3 birds in the dry puna 11kms south of Cerro Sombrero on 10/11.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Pluvianellidae
Magellanic Plover (Pluvianellus socialis)
4 birds watched at length in brilliant sunshine in the harsh environment of the heavily salt encrusted shore of Lago Los Cisnes close to the airport north of the town of Porvenir on Tierra del Fuego on 9/11. The birds were feeding in the sand and gravel on the lake edge by turning circles stirring up the sand beneath their feet – presumably disturbing small insects. Curious behaviour- their action reminded us of the circling motion of the water based feeding phalaropes.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae
South American Snipe (Gallinago paraguaiae)
This apparently common species seen only once at the edge of a marsh on Tierra del Fuego on 10/11
Puna Snipe (Gallinago andina)
Poor views of a bird flushed from the bofedales bog with the boardwalk next to the CONAF Las Cuevas building above Putre on 28/10
Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Common, seen at all coastal sites including100+ birds on the shore at Laguna Cartagena
Greater Yellowlegs (Tringa melanoleuca)
At Estero Lampa on 19/10 , and Concon on 23/10.
Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes)
Two birds at Concon on 23/10.
Willet Catoptrophorus semipalmatus)
A single bird at Concon on 23/10.
Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
20 or 30 birds along the beach at Concon on 23/10.
Surfbird (Aphriza virgata)
10 birds feeding on the inshore rocks at Renaca north of Vina del Mar on 24/10
Sanderling (Calidris alba)
20+ birds along the beach at Concon on 23/10.
White-rumped Sandpiper (Calidris fuscicollis)
A few birds seen with the larger numbers of the next species on the muddy edges of ponds in TdF.
Baird's Sandpiper (Calidris bairdii)
4 birds at Concon on 23/10 but common throughout Patagonia on muddy edges of inland ponds.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Thinocoridae
Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe (Attagis gayi)
A single bird on the frost covered slopes of the valley across the road from the CONAF building at Las Cuevas on 27/10 was a good find.
Gray-breasted Seedsnipe (Thinocorus orbignyianus)
Seen regularly in the bofedales bogs and altiplano above Putre.
Least Seedsnipe (Thinocorus rumicivorus)
Seen in dry puna near Cerro Sombrero on 10/11, the road to Pali Aike on 11/11 and on the road to Las Cumbres near TdP on 13/11.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Stercorariidae
Chilean Skua (Stercorarius chilensis)
Common in coastal areas in Patagonia and th e Straits of Magellan but also seen well inland on Tierra del Fuego - presumably on breeding grounds.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Laridae
Dolphin Gull (Larus scoresbii)
15-20 of this stylish looking gull seen at low tide in the harbour area at Porvrnir on 09/11.
Gray Gull (Larus modestus)
Up to 50 birds seen on the offshore rocks at Renaca north of Vina del Mar on 23&24/10
Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus)
Abundant in all coastal areas visited but widespread.
Brown-hooded Gull (Larus maculipennis)
Common throughout central and southern Chile in marshes, lagoons and estuaries.
Andean Gull (Larus serranus)
Only in the altiplano above Putre on 26&27/10.
CHARADRIIFORMES: Sternidae
South American Tern (Sterna hirundinacea)
The common coastal tern. Seen at all coastal locations in and around Punta Arenas and Porvenir.
Inca Tern (Larosterna inca)
200+ of this distinctive and beautiful tern in breeding plumage an the rocks at Renaca on 23&24/10
CHARADRIIFORMES: Rynchopidae
Black Skimmer (Rynchops niger)
4 birds on a sandspit at Concon on 23/10.
COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae
Rock Pigeon (Columba livia)
Common in urban areas.
Chilean Pigeon (Patagioenas araucana)
Seen regularly in nothofagus forest, mainly in the national parks or reserves. La Campana on 22&23/20, Nahuelbuta on 03/11, and Puyehue on 06&07/11.
Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata)
Fairly common and widespread.
Pacific Dove (Zenaida meloda)
Only in the north around Arica and in the Lluta Valley.
Picui Ground-Dove (Columbina picui)
Only in central and northern Chile. Estero Lampa on 19/10, La Campana 23/10 and daily at Laguna Laja.
Bare-faced Ground-Dove (Metriopelia ceciliae)
Seen daily in small numbers in and around Putre.
Black-winged Ground-Dove (Metriopelia melanoptera)
Seen only in central and northen Chile at higher altitudes although it occurs throughout. El Yeso 20/10, La Campana 23/10 and Putre 26&27/10.
PSITTACIFORMES: Psittacidae
Austral Parakeet (Enicognathus ferrugineus)
At Lircay on 30/10 and then many birds in and around Nahuelbuta on 02&03/11and Puyehue on 05/11.
Mountain Parakeet (Psilopsiagon aurifrons)
Poor views of a small flock of this species as it whizzed through the “Wet Gorge A” in Putre on 25/10.
STRIGIFORMES: Strigidae
Magellanic Horned Owl (Bubo magellanicus)
Seen twice, both at a daytime roost. First at the Ocoa side of La Campana on 23/10 and then in a eucalyptus tree in“Wet Gorge A” in Putre on 25/10.
Rufous-legged Owl (Strix rufipes)
Fantastic daytime views of this species at its roost beside the CONAF Ranger station at Lircay on 29/10.
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium peruanum)
In reponse to playback at dusk near the school above “Wet Gorge A” in Putre on 25/10.
Austral Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium nanum)
In reponse to plyaback on the Sendero Andanista at La Campana on 22/10.
Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus)
One along the coast on the road to Fuerte Bulnes on 11/11.
APODIFORMES: Apodidae
Andean Swift (Aeronautes andecolus)
A couple of small groups seen on the road up to Putre on 25/10.
TROCHILIFORMES: Trochilidae
Andean Hillstar (Oreotrochilus estella)
Several of this beautiful hummingbird seen on both visits to the“Wet Gorge A” in Putre.
Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas)
On the lower slopes of El Yeso 20/10, La Campana on 22&23/10 and in “Wet Gorge A” in Putre 27/10
Green-backed Firecrown (Sephanoides sephaniodes)
At La Campana on 23/10, Laguna Laja on 01/11and Nahuelbuta on 03/11.
Oasis Hummingbird (Rhodopis vesper)
Seen in the Hummingbird Garden in the Azapa Valley on 28/10.
CORACIIFORMES: Alcedinidae
Ringed Kingfisher (Ceryle torquatus)
A single bird flying upstream from the GolGol1 bridge near Puyehue on 05/11.
PICIFORMES: Picidae
Striped Woodpecker (Picoides lignarius)
A pair in response to playback from the gravel road on the way to the mine at La Campana on 22/10.
Chilean Flicker (Colaptes pitius)
Three on the scrubby hillsides from the gravel road on the way to the mine at La Campana on 22/10, Laguna Laja on 01/11 and at TdP on 15/11.
Andean Flicker (Colaptes rupicola)
A pair on the altiplano above Putre near the police checkpoint on 27/10.
Magellanic Woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus)
Great views of first a female and then 2 separate males on the Piedra Aguila at Nahuelbuta on 03/11.
PASSERIFORMES: Furnariidae
Common Miner (Geositta cunicularia)
Fairly common roadside bird in Tierra del Fuego and along the road to Pali Aike. This was the race cunicularia – we did not see any of the other three races found in Chile which are rare to uncommon.
Puna Miner (Geositta punensis)
Fairly common in the altiplano above Putre.
Rufous-banded Miner (Geositta rufipennis)
Several at El Yeso on 20/10.
Short-billed Miner (Geositta antarctica)
Fairly common roadside bird in northern Tierra del Fuego. Seen along thePorvenir to Cerro Sombrero road on 10/11.
Scale-throated Earthcreeper (Upucerthia dumetaria)
At Laguna Laja on 31/10 and easily seen in northern Tierra del Fuego on 10&11/11
Plain-breasted Earthcreeper (Upucerthia jelskii)
Several birds seen daily in the altiplano above Putre on 26&27/10.
White-throated Earthcreeper (Upucerthia albigula)
Several birds on both visits “Wet Gorge A” in Putre.
CRAG CHILA (Chilia melanura)
Two birds seen at El Yeso on 20/10. We first tried the crags at the KM4 site suggested in Pearman but to no avail so we just kept looking as we slowly progressed up the valley. Both birds were eventually found between 6km-7km on the shrubby areas below some rocky slopes on the right of the road where they darted in and out in the manner of earthcreepers.
CHILEAN SEASIDE CINCLODES (Cinclodes nigrofumosus)
Several birds seen on the rocks and on the sea wall at Renaca north of Vina del Mar on 23&24/10.. One pair were nesting in the sea wall itself.
Dark-bellied Cinclodes (Cinclodes patagonicus)
Several birds seen at Laguna Laja on 31/10 & 01/11- most easily seen in the open area on the right heading to the lake; probably described as Track C in Pearman.Also at Puyehue on 05&06/11.
Gray-flanked Cinclodes (Cinclodes oustaleti)
Two single birds in the lower parts of El Yeso on 20/10.
Bar-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes fuscus)
Seen regularly in Andean locations. Several at El Yeso on 20/10, on the altiplano above Putre and in the gorges at Putre on 26&27/10, and at TdP on 15/11. Also several birds on Tierra del Fuego on 10&11/11.
White-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes atacamensis)
Seen daily in the puna and altiplano above Putre.
Des Murs's Wiretail (Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii)
Proved much easier to find and see than we had anticipated. 4 or 5 separate birds on the Piedra del Aguila at Nahuelbuta on 02&03/11, several on the track to the mirador at Puyehue on 06/11 and in the bamboo on the Sendero Chile from the gate on the right 4kms before the Argentinian border at Puyehue.
Thorn-tailed Rayadito (Aphrastura spinicauda)
Delightful and abundant.
Streaked Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura striata)
Only observed on one date with 3 birds seen in the “Wet Gorge A” in Putre on 25/10
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura aegithaloides)
In scrubby bushes surrounding El Peral on 21/10, La Campana (Ocoa side) on 23/10.
Wren-like Rushbird (Phleocryptes melanops)
Several in the marsh at Estero Lampa on 19/10 and more at El Peral on 21/10.
Dark-winged Canastero (Asthenes arequipae)
A couple of birds seen in the “Wet Gorge A” in Putre on 27/10.
Canyon Canastero (Asthenes pudibunda)
Only in the “Wet Gorge A” in Putre on 25&27/10.
Sharp-billed (Lesser) Canastero (Asthenes pyrrholeuca)
Two birds skulking in shrubby bushes between Km6-Km7 at El Yeso on 20/10.
DUSKY-TAILED CANASTERO (Asthenes humicola)
With great difficulty a single birde seen well at La Campana ( Ocoa side) on 23/10.
Cordilleran Canastero (Asthenes modesta)
A single bird in the puna above Putre on 26/10.
White-throated Treerunner (Pygarrhichas albogularis)
This attractive species seen at La Campana (Sendero Andanista) on 22/10, a group of 6 at Lircay on 29/10, Nahuelbuta on 03/11 and at Puyehue on 05/11.
PASSERIFORMES: Rhinocryptidae
Black-throated Huet-huet (Pteroptochos tarnii)
Several birds seen at both Nahuelbuta on 03/10 and Puyehue on 04-06/11
CHESTNUT-THROATED HUET-HUET (Pteroptochos castaneus)
A single bird seen by the streams near the entrance to Las Vilches on 30/10 and at Laguna Laja the following day where we had stellar views ofa pair of this uncommon endemic in the wooded valley marked B in Pearman. The birds were highly vocal and came within a couple of metres.
MOUSTACHED TURCA (Pteroptochos megapodius)
Great views of a pair nesting in the bank under the road in the lower part of El Yeso on 20/10and then at La Campana from the Olmue side on 22/10 and the Ocoa side on 23/10. The birds were easy to see from the Ocoa side.
WHITE-THROATED TAPACULO (Scelorchilus albicollis)
After 4 hours walking the hillsides at Ocoa on 23/10 where the birds proved utterly unresponsive we finally found a pair almost back where we had started.
Chucao Tapaculo (Scelorchilus rubecula)
Common and fairly easily seen at Nahuelbuta on 02&03/11 and at Puyehue from 03-06/11.
Ochre-flanked Tapaculo (Eugralla paradoxa) H
This bird proved something of a nemesis for us. A couple of birds heard in the bamboo covered stream at the entrance to Las Vilches and one taped very close remained unseen. After that we drew a complete blank at Puyehue despite trying all the known locations.
Magellanic Tapaculo (Scytalopus magellanicus)
5 birds see over 2 days at Nahuelbuta and the same bird seen on successive days at Puyehue.
Dusky Tapaculo (Scytalopus fuscus)
Several birds heard in response to playback and one seen very well in the grassy dunes with isolated shrubby trees left of the railway line to the north of the Rio Aconcagua on 23/10.
PASSERIFORMES: Cotingidae
Rufous-tailed Plantcutter (Phytotoma rara)
On 31/10 a single bird in the open grassy/shrubby area on the right at what we think is Track C in Pearman, outside our chalet at Puheyue on 06/11 and near Pousada Serrano in TdP on 15/11.
PASSERIFORMES: Tyrannidae
White-crested Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps)
Abundant.
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes flavirostris)
Only in Putre where individuals observed in “Wet Gorge A” on 25&27/10.
Tufted Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes parulus)
Common throughout Chile.
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant (Tachuris rubrigastra)
This delightful species seems to be relatively common in marshes in central and northern Chile. At Estero Lampa 0n 19/10, El Peral on 23/10.
Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus)
A single bird at our lunch dtop on the Lluta Valley on the road uo to Putre on 25/10
White-browed Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca leucophrys)
Only one record from the “Wet Gorge A” in Putre on 25/10
Patagonian Tyrant (Colorhamphus parvirostris)
Also only one record from the Piedra del Aguila at Nahuelbuta on 03/11.
Fire-eyed Diucon (Xolmis pyrope)
Fairly common – seen regularly throughout.
Chocolate-vented Tyrant (Neoxolmis rufiventris)
Seen in northern Tierra del Fuego around Cerro Sombrero on 10&11/11, on the road from Punta Delagada to Pali Aike NP also on 11/1 and in TdP on 15/11.
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis montana)
Single birds ( maybe the same one) seen daily at Putre with another at the ruined building near the police checkpoint on the altiplano. Also a single at the lake edge at Laguna Laja on 31/10
Great Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis livida)
One bird in the dunes and on the power line next to the railway line north of Cocon on23/10.(Pearman C5)
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola maculirostris)
Several birds in the upper levels of El Yeso on 20/10, and in “Wet Gorge A” on 25&27/10.
Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola maclovianus)
Two birds in the upper levels of Laguna Laja on 31/10.
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola rufivertex)
Common at El Yeso on 20/10, also in the puna above Putre on 26/10.
Puna Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola juninensis)
Seen at the Diademed Sandpiper Plover bofedales bog above Putre on 26&27/10.
White-browed Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola albilora)
Several at El Yeso on 20/10, also in a bofedales bog above Putre on 28/10.
White-fronted Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola albifrons)
Uncommon; only 3 or 4 birds seen in the bofedales bogs above Putre on 26&28/10
Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola flavinucha)
Readily seen at El Yeso on 20/10, but thereafter only in Torres del Paine on 15/11.
Andean Negrito (Lessonia oreas)
Seen in the bofedales bogs above Putre on 26&28/10.
Austral Negrito (Lessonia rufa)
Abundant in southern Chile and Patagonia.
Spectacled Tyrant (Hymenops perspicillatus)
Seen only once, a male at the tidal lagoon at Concon on 23/10.
PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae
Chilean Swallow (Tachycineta meyeni)
Common and widespread.
Blue-and-white Swallow (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca)
Common and widespread.
Andean Swallow (Haplochelidon andecola)
Only in the altiplano above Putre on 28/10.
PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae
Correndera Pipit (Anthus correndera)
Seen at Seno Otway on 08/11 and Tierra del Fuego on 10&11/11.
PASSERIFORMES: Troglodytidae
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)
Common.
Grass (Sedge) Wren (Cistothorus platensis)
2 birds at Estero Lampa on 19/10, and a single bird in a marsh in TdP on 15/11were the only records.
PASSERIFORMES: Mimidae
Chilean Mockingbird (Mimus thenca)
Common throughout central Chile.
PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae
Chiguanco Thrush (Turdus chiguanco)
Only in and around Putre from 25-28/10.
Austral Thrush (Turdus falcklandii)
Common throughout Chile.
PASSERIFORMES: Thraupidae
Cinereous Conebill (Conirostrum cinereum)
Several birds in “Wet Gorge A” on 25&27/10.
Tamarugo Conebill (Conirostrum tamarugense)
One of the surprises of the trip where, in response to Austral Pygmy Owl , one bird showed very well in “Wet Gorge A” on 27/10 in the company of the previous species.
Blue-and-yellow Tanager (Thraupis bonariensis)
2 or 3 birds in “Wet Gorge A” on 25&27/10.
PASSERIFORMES: Emberizidae
Black-hooded Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus atriceps)
Seen on the old road from Putre to the main highway on 26&27/10.
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus gayi)
At El Yeso on 20/10, La Campana 22/10, and Torres del Paine 11&12/11
Patagonian Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus patagonicus)
In the car park at Nahuelbuta on 02/11, daily at Puyehue from 04-07/11, and TdPon 15/11.
Mourning Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus fruticeti)
Widespread in scrubby slopes of the lower Andes. El Yeso 20/10, on the old road from Putre to the main highway 26&27/10, Laguna Laja 31/10, Puyehue on 06/11 and Torres del Paine on 15/11.
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus unicolor)
Several birds above Putre on 26/10, Laguna Laja 31/10 and Torres del Paine on 15/11.
White-throated Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus erythronotus)
Uncommon, only above Putre on the edge of bofedales on 26&27/10.
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus alaudinus)
Several at mid levels of El Yeso on 20/10 were the only record.
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus plebejus)
On the old road from Putre to the main highway on 25&27/10.
Canary-winged Finch (Melanodera melanodera)
6 or 7 birds, seen in ones and twos up to Km 19 on the Punta Delagada - Pali Aike road on 11/11.
Yellow-bridled Finch (Melanodera xanthogramma)
A small flock on the lava slopes beneath Crater Raihuen at Puyehue on 06/11
White-winged Diuca-Finch (Diuca speculifera)
Only on the bofedales bogs above Putre on 26&27/10.
Common Diuca-Finch (Diuca diuca)
Common in central and southern Chile. Absent from the north and Patagonia.
Band-tailed Seedeater (Catamenia analis)
Only one record on the old road from Putre to the main highway on 27/10.
Black-throated Flowerpiercer (Diglossa brunneiventris)
Several birds in “Wet Gorge A” on 27/10.
Grassland Yellow-Finch (Sicalis luteola)
Fairly common in lowlands of central Chile. Estero Lampa on 19/10, El Peral 21/10, La Campana 23/10, Laguna Laja 01/11.
Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch (Sicalis uropygialis)
Only one record from the altiplano above Putre near the police checkpoint on 26/10
Greater Yellow-Finch (Sicalis auriventris)
Two birds on the rocks at the shrine cKm 24 at El Yeso on 20/10.
Greenish Yellow-Finch (Sicalis olivascens)
Little flocks on the roadsides above Putre from 25/10 to 27/10.
Patagonian Yellow-Finch (Sicalis lebruni)
On the road to Seno Otway on 08/11 and Tierra del Fuego on 10/11.
Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis)
Ubiquitous.
PASSERIFORMES: Icteridae
Yellow-winged Blackbird (Agelasticus thilius)
Fairly common around marshes in central Chile.
Long-tailed Meadowlark (Sturnella loyca)
Seen regularly tghroughout the trip from central Chile to Tierra del Fuego.
Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis)
Common in farmland with livestock.
Austral Blackbird (Curaeus curaeus)
Fairly common around forest edge from souther Chile to Torres del Paine.
PASSERIFORMES: Fringillidae
Hooded Siskin (Carduelis magellanica)
Little flocks on the roadsides above Putre from 25/10 to 27/10.
Black-chinned Siskin (Carduelis barbata)
Around the approaches to laguna Laja on 01/11, Nahuelbuta on 02/11 and Puyehue on 06/11
Yellow-rumped Siskin (Carduelis uropygialis)
Little flocks on the roadsides above Putre from 25/10 to 27/10.
PASSERIFORMES: Passeridae
House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
Seen regularly in urban areas and villages throughout.