Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
 Lilac-breasted Roller |
 Kori Bustard |
 Square-tailed Nightjar |
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 Pale Chanting Goshawk |
 Pale-winged Starling |
 African Penguin |
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INTRODUCTION
To any budding birder, a two-month trip to the African continent would be high on their list of must do’s. So for a relative newcomer, this trip would provide a birding spectacular beyond any thought possible; A far cry from searching for pelagics on the cold, wind-swept Northern Irish coast.
This trip was not a specific birding tour, but a 49-day overland truck tour from the cradle of Mankind that is eastern Africa to the rugged shores of the Western Cape of South Africa. In these few months I would pass through eight different countries, cross the Equator and Tropic of Capricorn, through a varied landscape and countless birding hotspots.
The tour proper ran from the 7th January until the 24th March 2007, but I arrived in Nairobi on the 5th to fit in some birding and stayed in Cape Town until the 1st March to see how many endemics I could pick up. Upon meeting the tour guide, driver and the other thirteen members of the tour party I declared, “Hello, my name is Neal and I must warn you now that I am a birdwatcher”. I would be reminded of this statement many times throughout the trip and it was not long until I was simply referred to as Birdman.
It must be said that this form of travel is not the ideal way to see birds. It is extremely frustrating. To have only 2 days at Lake Naivasha, Kenya or to drive past a salt lake in Etosha, Namibia that’s teeming with birds is not conducive to claiming a good trip total. However, as an independent traveller, I thought better of trying to bird the southern half of Africa on my own. It was also interesting to see how quickly other members of the group became aware that Africa was not all about the big five and how many times they asked, “any new birds?”
A normal day on the overland truck meant an early start and a long day's driving to our next camp. So for me this meant up at 5am to catch the dawn chorus and quickly out and about on arrival at a new camp. Often we stayed in one place for a few days and this was when most of my birding took place.
I decided to write this trip report when researching my route, as I discovered that little birding information was available for such a journey. I’m not suggesting that this tour was in any way groundbreaking, but those that have done similar certainly have not left their mark on the World Wide Web. So it is intended that this report will not only act as my personal memoirs, but also help others who one day feel the urge to part company with their savings and embark on the trip of a lifetime.
As a friendly warning, please only use this report for guidance if you intend to travel around the same time of year as I did. For example, it would be wrong to turn up at a location during the dry season and expect to see lakes full of Flamingo’s, with muddy banks covered in waders. Similarly this is not a good time of year to see pelagic species off the Cape Peninsula. So before any decisions are made about what time of year to travel, take into account what species you would like to see and what locations would have suitable conditions to see them.
The highlights of the trip have to include the first morning's birding in Nairobi, where I saw thirty lifers before breakfast from my hotel balcony, the few days spent at Lake Naivasha, Kenya, that opened my eyes to what birding in Africa was all about and seeing a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl at Okaukeujo camp in Etosha, Namibia.
I ended the trip with a total of 388 birds and 44 mammals. Of the bird species seen, 357 were new and 90 were endemic or near endemic to the region. A most excellent couple of months.
ITINERARY
FOR KUMUKA AFRICAN CONTRASTS OVERLAND TOUR
Days 1-6 Nairobi, Masai Mara, Narok, Naivasha, Namanga, Arusha
Days 7-13 Ngorongoro Crater, Mto Wa Mbu, Arusha, Moshi, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, East/North Coast, Stone Town
Days 14-20 Dar es Salaam, Mikumi National Park, Mbeya, Lake Malawi Beaches
Days 21-27 Lilongwe, Lusaka, Livingstone, Victoria Falls
Days 28-34 Chobe National Park, Okavango Delta, Maun, Grootfontein, Etosha National Park
Days 35-41 Cheetah Farm, Outjo, Cape Cross, Swakopmund, Sossusvlei, Sesriem, Namib Naukluft Park
Days 42-49 Fish River Canyon, Orange River, Springbok
HIGHLIGHTS
Kenya
-Nairobi, Boulevard Hotel grounds, surrounds and gardens-Masai Mara -The Rift Valley-Naivasha -Lake Naivasha - birding paradise
Tanzania
-Arusha-Ngorongoro Crater -Dar es Salaam-Zanzibar – Jozani Forest-North/East Coast Beaches-Mikumi National Park
Malawi
-Karongo-Lake Malawi-Lake Malawi Beaches-Lilongwe
Zambia
-Lusaka-Victoria Falls-Livingstone
Zimbabwe
-Victoria Falls
Botswana
-Kasane-Chobe National Park - Game Drive and Boat Cruise-Maun-Okavango Delta - 3 Day 2 Night Delta Excursion -Francistown
Namibia
-Rundu & Kavango River-Etosha National Park - 2 Day Park Entrance and 4 Game Drives -Cheetah Farm-Cape Cross Seal Colony-Swakopmund-Walvis Bay-Namib Naukluft National Park-Fish River Canyon-Orange River
South Africa
-Cedarberg Wilderness Area-Stellenbosch-Cape Town- Paarl, Cape Peninsula -West Coast National Park, De Hoop Nature Reserve
RESOURCES
Pocket-guide to Southern African birds by Burger Cillie and Ulrich Oberprieler (2002). Sunbird Publishing. This book's small size makes it ideal as a field guide, but also restricts the range and quality of species and illustrations. This book was seldom used throughout the trip.
National Audubon Society. Field guide to African Wildlife (2005). Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. An extremely informative book, well set out and aimed at the true wildlife enthusiast. This book gives detailed accounts of a wide range of animals from mammals to insects. A well used companion.
A comprehensive illustrated field guide. Birds of Africa south of the Sahara. By Ian Sinclair and Peter Ryan (2003). Struik Publishers. A real must have for anyone planning on an African birding tour spanning the continent south of the Sahara. Judging by the condition of the book as it sits here on my return, it was used almost to the point of destruction. Buy it.
For web resources, have a search around and I don’t believe there is a more informative website than http://www.sabirding.co.za , go here for details of good birding sites and what species you should expect to see there. Another good source of information was http://www.charliesbirdblog.com that offers a range of trip reports and photographs from the areas visited.
As for a species tick sheet for this route, good luck. I tried but could not find one. In the end I made my own. Struik produce a comprehensive tick sheet for Southern Africa and I’m sure other regions encountered on this trip have similar, but nowhere could I find one that listed all the possible species from Nairobi to Cape Town. If you're stuck just tick them off in the field guide as you go.
GUIDES
Owing to availability as much as funds, I only used two professional bird guides on this trip. Firstly in Livingstone, Zambia (Victoria Falls area) and then again in Cape Town, South Africa. Along the way the tour group was guided in some National Parks by local guides, some of whom proved extremely knowledgeable particularly with local common bird species and larger birds of prey, although, others couldn’t tell a Buzzard from a Boubou. As a rule I told every new tour company we encountered that I was a keen birdwatcher and asked if they could give me the guide most familiar with the birds of the area. This proved very useful in places like the Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania and the Okavango Delta and Chobe River cruise both in Botswana.
On the other hand, the two and a half hour guided bird walk I did from the Ngepi Camp in the Caprivi Strip region of northern Namibia did produce three new birds, but was money and time wasted. That is, if you consider being asked to identify birds by the guide, or being shown a pied kingfisher a waste of a good afternoon. In my opinion someone who is getting paid to show you birds in a region with a species list of over 400, should not be missing a number of birds, especially ones that stand out like sore thumbs like Southern Red Bishop.
That said both professional guides I used were excellent. Much to the amusement of the rest of the tour group, I spent a day birding with Bob in Livingstone. The Bob who does the birding actually goes by the title of Robert Sternstedt, Consultant Ornithologist. You can contact him through the website http://www.birdingwithbob.com or by email at bob@zamnet.zm
The second guide I used was Keith Barnes of Tropical Birding. This day's birding around the Western Cape proved to be one of the highlights of the entire trip, with a good number of Cape endemics seen. You can find Keith through the company website http://www.tropicalbirding.com and I strongly recommend you look him up.
Also for the first week or so in Kenya from Lake Naivasha, to the Masai Mara and back to Nairobi, the tour had another birdwatcher onboard. A Dutch birder called Sebastian. Without his help in these areas, I would not have seen or identified the same number of birds. So thanks for your help.
A special mention must also go to Euan McLachlan and the rest of the Nature Trek team that helped me with species ID in the various parts of Namibia where we kept bumping into each other. And to their guide Charles Rhyn for allowing me to come along for an hour's bird walk in the grounds of Okaukeujo camp, during which I saw no fewer than 11 lifers, including the much sought after African Pygmy Falcon. I now plan to take part in similar trips in the future.
DIARY
For ease of use I have split this section into country-by-country accounts, as I understand that not everyone will need information on all parts of the trip. Nor may everyone enjoy or want to read about non-birding issues or matters of a personal nature.
KENYA
Days 1 to 3 – Hotel Boulevard, Nairobi. Rift Valley. Lake Naivasha and Narok
I arrived in Nairobi to find that my arranged and paid for airport pickup hadn’t turned up. So after the most terrifying taxi ride of my life, I settled in for an early night, with a cold beer and the promise of the first morning's birding to look forward to. It didn’t disappoint. From the vantage point of my balcony I managed to notch up 30 lifers before breakfast. These included, Spectacled Weaver, Baglafecht Weaver, African Dusky Flycatcher, Little Bee-eater, Olive Sunbird, Hamerkop, Yellow-billed Kite (up to 16 in the sky at one time), Hadeda Ibis, Holub’s Golden Weaver, Lesser Honeyguide, Speckled Mousebird and Variable Sunbird. However, the highlights of the morning were Northern Pied Babbler and White Eyed Slaty Flycatcher. Although, much to my disillusionment, the first bird of the trip was a Pied Crow, closely followed by a Ring-necked Turtle Dove. The rest of the afternoon and much of the next day were spent in the hotel gardens where I managed to pick up a few more species, but nothing terribly exciting. That evening, we had the tour pre-departure meeting and I was delighted to find out it would take place under the cacophony of noise that is a Sacred Ibis roost. To the others in the group it was beside the tennis courts.
The tour began with a short (for Africa) drive to Lake Naivasha, where we would spend the next couple of days. En route we stopped off at a look out point over the expansive African Rift Valley, where I was delighted to pick up a couple more species of Sunbird, these being of the Collared and Scarlet-chested varieties. It was on this journey that it first dawned on me how many species I would miss by being stuck on an overland truck. We passed numerous lakes, wetland areas and waterholes, where I saw in a blink of an eye, a species of Bustard, some Egrets and a few raptors. These would just have to wait.
Along the road to Fisherman’s camp on the shores of Lake Naivasha I saw my first Little Egrets of the trip and a number of endemic Ruppell’s Starlings. At the campsite I met with Dutch birder Sebastian and before we had time to exchange pleasantries, I had spotted some Lovebirds in a nearby tree and a rather large shadow passing overhead. These turned out to be the endemic Fischer’s Lovebird and an African Marsh Harrier. I soon set up my tent and prepared to head out with Sebastian for my first real birding in Africa. The camp itself is well wooded and holds an extraordinary array of birds and leads through an agricultural area towards a small marshy lagoon and the shores of the lake itself. This afternoon's highlights included, Long-tailed Starling, Black Kite, Yellow-billed Duck, Superb Starling, a rather showy African Hoopoe, Southern Grey Shrike, Pin-tailed Whydah, Pied Kingfisher, African Jacana, Yellow Wagtail, Great White Pelican, African Fish Eagle, White-fronted Bee-eater, Whiskered Tern, Little Bittern, Intermediate Egret, Malachite Kingfisher, Red-capped Lark, Yellow-fronted Canary and Fork-tailed Drongo. However, bird of the day was a Black-billed wood Hoopoe, endemic to northeast Africa. Another first for the trip was a family of Vervet Monkeys watching on from the nearby reed-beds. The day ended with a flock of up to 800 White Stork, on course for pastures new, flying high in the fading African sky.
That evening myself, Sebastian and girlfriend Melanie went off in search of Hippos by the Lake. The campsite closes this area off at night, as these aquatic herbivores venture out of the lake to graze. They have erected a flimsy electric fence for safety. My bravado soon bowed to panic as I turned my head torch to reveal a massive Hippo staring at us, only 20 metres away. I slowly walked away, somehow resisting the urge to run.
The following morning was spent around ‘birders paradise’ hide/bar by the shore of the lake. First on the wing was a bulky Giant Kingfisher. Then an African icon, or rather two, Grey-crowned Cranes flew into view. The birding was again lively, with life bird after life bird. Fulvous Duck, a Blue-headed Coucal skulking in the Reeds, Kenya Rufous Sparrow, Black-backed Puffback, Crowned Lapwing, Black-headed Oriole, African Yellow White-eye, Purple Swamphen and Grassveld Pipit. The highlight of the day was the discovery of one of my target birds of the trip and surely one of the most stunning in world birding, the Lilac-breasted Roller. Hours were spent viewing and photographing the bird, drawing ever closer, hoping it wouldn’t fly away. The photo included here is the best of about 60 efforts. So take plenty of film.
The following day was spent on the truck, which took us to our camp before we entered the Masai Mara National Park. The campsite was on the edge of the forgettable town of Narok. While setting up camp, I spotted an enormous Marabou Stork perched high in the surrounding canopy, followed by my first ever Woodpecker, the Cardinal. Much to our surprise this was living in a hole in the muddy ground by the side of the camp entrance road.
Days 4-7 Masai Mara. Karen Camp, Nairobi. Arusha Snake Park, Tanzania
The first big game was seen on the long, bumpy road into the famous ‘Mara’ game reserve. As we stopped for Zebra, Wildebeest and Thomson’s gazelle by the side of the road, I noticed a number of vultures perched high on an acacia tree. These were mostly Lappet-faced Vultures, but a venting of the wings revealed a White-backed Vulture amongst them. Also from the discomfort of the truck everyone spotted an unmistakable Kori Bustard, who the group were delighted to learn would be the biggest Bustard on the trip. It is one of the largest flying birds on the planet after all.
Before we had even entered the confines of the reserve itself we witnessed our first Impala, Elephant and Giraffe. A pair of Yellow-billed Oxpeckers with their diagnostic white rump were harassing the latter. Into the reserve now and more and more birds start to appear. Hildebrandt’s Starling followed by a group of Masai race Common Ostrich. Other plain's game seen included Duiker, Topi and Grant’s gazelle.
Time now for our customary welcome by the Masai Warriors. All singing, all dancing, all wearing watches and speaking English. As the tribe leader, Jackson told of slaying Lions and drinking the blood of cattle, Sebastian and I looked to the heavens and were rewarded with Martial Eagle and Montagu’s Harrier. The morning game drive revealed more of the same, with huge herds of antelope spread over the vast savannah plains. Lion food.
We set up camp just across the river that acts as the park boundary and set about birding the enclosure. The trees along the river’s edge revealed Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Grey Woodpecker, Green-backed (Little-spotted) Woodpecker and Wood Kingfisher. A Black-Chested Snake Eagle graced the skies above.
The afternoon game drive will remain one of the most gratifying episodes of the trip. The first Buffalo herd of the trip also played host to many associated Cattle Egret. The guides thought they spotted a couple of snakes in the tall grass. As we drove closer, we realised it was three Lionesses, knees up in the grass. Not a flinch. We left them dreaming of their next kill and drove on. More new mammals were to follow. Hyena, Jackal and Waterbuck were followed by a river (not far upstream from our campsite) full of Hippos. As if this wasn’t enough to satisfy our craving for game, we noticed a group of safari trucks parked up on the hill. Off we went, excited about what we might see. Beside a waterhole (which incidentally held some Egyptian Goose) there lay a pack of young male Lions and sat up on a grassy knoll surveying all that was his, the king of beasts. A mature male Lion. What a poser.
As the truck stopped for us to take photos, a few of the Lions got up and ambled over to rest in the shade of the vehicle. Not great for photography, but a stunning sight nevertheless. Once we realised the Lions would be quite happy to lie there eternally, we moved on. However, once around the next corner in a thicket of shrubs, we discovered the females of the pride closely guarding a couple of cubs from the glare of the African sun and the gaze of tourists. A most serene experience.
As we drove away, checking through our photos, I took a quiet moment to myself to reflect upon what I had just seen. I felt great.
More Lions would follow, but surely nothing would top this first sighting. Instead, I focused my attention on the random trees around the vehicle. Then to my astonishment, another of my trip target birds. The endemic and unique Secretarybird. Views were distant but I did get to see it run along the plain and then fly, with its long legs and tail streamers trailing behind, into its nest. A fitting end to what had been a fantastic day.
The next morning brought a new game drive and another iconic African cat. Again sat half covered by the tall grass, gazing into the distance was a Cheetah. It soon had enough of the tourist camera clicks and went to sleep. The birding in the reserve produced a number of life birds. A Eurasian Thick-knee (Stone Curlew) thought it camouflaged enough to stand in the middle of the dusty road. A number of common Tawny Eagles were seen, perched on dead trees and on the wing. Other species of note included Northern European Wheatear and Isabelline Wheatear.
The afternoon game drive and our time in the ‘Mara’ were brought to an end in a spectacular and exasperating fashion. After stopping to view the first Meerkat (Suricates) of the trip, we noticed the surrounding gazelle were very agitated and inquisitive. Suddenly, just there in front of us was a Lioness, in full prey stalking mode. No wonder the gazelle started to bolt. The Lion slowly crept behind, nearly within striking distance now, and then in a cloud of dust, off ran the gazelle. We watched this routine a number of times before we had to leave the reserve at sunset, no doubt missing a Lion kill in our haste.
The following morning the truck and the Kenyan roads shook our innards all the way back to Nairobi and Karen camp. This overnight camp stop produced few birds, but the local shopping mall and streets were ablaze with Common House Martins. The next morning we left on the road towards the Tanzanian border and the Ngorongoro Crater. On our lunch stop by the side of the road I saw the first of many large flocks of Red-billed Queleas, the strange Namaqua Dove and discovered that Grey-capped Sociable Weavers inhabited the hundreds of single nests I had noticed along the road.
TANZANIA
Day 8 Ngorongoro Crater
We arrived in Arusha Snake Park that evening with just enough light left in the day to wander around camp and discover the endemic Yellow-collared Lovebird. The next morning en route to the crater rim, the local guide stopped to show me a tree roost of Pink-backed Pelican. At our next stop for a comfort break at a curio market, a Dark-capped (Black-eyed) Bulbul sat on a telegraph wire.
Around the rim of the crater the guide pointed out an Augur Buzzard on top of a dead branch. We took the steep road through the clouds into the Crater and what waited below was nothing short of a wildlife wonder. The guide followed the road through soda lakes and pans teeming with Lesser Flamingo. The grassy areas held large numbers of Abdim’s (White-bellied) Stork. The smaller waterholes added African Spoonbill, Ruff, dozens of Curlew Sandpiper, Black-winged Stilt, Red-billed Teal, Three-banded Plover and Squacco Heron to the list. I took a final scan of the Flamingo, only to notice a prehistoric looking Goliath Heron, statuesque in the foreground. New mammals to the list included Spotted Hyena, Cerval cat and the endangered Black Rhino. On the back of a Coke’s Heartbeast I saw the first Wattled Starling of the tour.
On our way to our lunch stop, we witnessed another awe-inspiring sight; a pack of Spotted Hyena and several Lappet-faced vultures were scavenging a Zebra carcass. The spectacle of a Hyena walking past carrying a severed Zebra leg in its jaw will live long in my memory. We drove off, only to be stopped in our tracks by what had just killed the carrion, a large male Lion. We followed it toward a small stream, where it dived into the vegetation. We then discovered a pride of young adult males first drinking from the stream, then resting in the shade, their stomachs full of Zebra.
At the location for lunch itself, by the shores of the aptly titled Hippo Lake, we guarded our sustenance with care. Around 15 Black Kites swooped on anything left out of arms reach. This site also hosted a flock of very localised and endemic Rufous-tailed Weaver.
In the evening, the journey out of the crater and back to the Snake Park, heralded the first Steppe Eagles of the trip, including a juvenile roosting in a tree not far from the road.
A word of advice. If you are privileged enough to visit the crater, go to the toilet before you go and stay off the fluids. The road in is possibly the most bouncy, bladder-bursting thoroughfare in Africa. The experience of urinating on the side of a safari vehicle with a Cheetah within 400 metres is not one I would recommend.
Days 9-17 Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar
As we entered civilisation in the humid Tanzanian Capital, the first ubiquitous House Crows appeared and on the harbour ferry crossing to camp, many Sooty (Hemrich’s) Gull’s and a few Lesser Black-backed Gull’s competed for food in the surf. The promise of good birding soon dwindled as I arrived in Zanzibar. An island more destitute of bird species would be hard to imagine. Especially considering its proximity to the continental shelf of the Indian Ocean and the fact that neighbouring Pemba Island has no fewer than 6 endemic species.
Nevertheless my visit to the central Jozani Forest to see the endemic Red Colubus Monkey did return some new birds. For a small fee a guide will introduce you to the forest and its friendly inhabitants (one tried to steal my hat). My guide also pointed out Dark-backed Weaver, Paradise Flycatcher, and Little Greenbul, we could hear the loud popping calls of a Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, but failed to locate it in the dense forest.
From the idyllic northern beaches in front of Baraka Beach Lodge, a number of Dimorphic (Mascarne) Egrets passed close to shore, including some displaying dark morph characteristics.
The only other thing worth mentioning about Zanzibar is the salty beer. The less said about this the better.
Day 18 Farmhouse Camp Tanzanian / Malawian border
I would highly recommend staying at this wilderness camp longer than the one night I had here. The grounds hold a good variety of species and a number of walking tracks through its mixed habitats should reward you with some fine birds. I did manage to see Purple-crested Turaco (Lourie), Black-backed Puffback and large numbers of European Barn Swallow in the fading evening light.
MALAWI
Days 19 – 24 Lake Malawi beaches
Approximately 10 kilometres from the border crossing, the truck was stopped at a police check- point, giving me just enough time to scan a large Heronry high in the treetops on the left hand side. This revealed several Black- headed Heron, another life bird truck-tick. We spent the next couple of days at Chatimba Camp on the shores of Lake Malawi. The birding began to pick up again and I soon discovered many new species. A river mouth to the left of camp held the first Southern Red Bishop of the trip, a group of roosting Grey-headed gulls and African (Blue-billed) Firefinch. This area also held Pied Kingfisher, Little Egret and Common Sandpiper.
The next morning I was nursing the worst hangover of the trip, but still dragged myself around the grounds of the camp. Beside the ablutions I discovered a number of flighty Blue Waxbill, Bronze Mannikin and African Pied Wagtail. The camp also has its very own community of nesting Village (Spotted) Weaver. I returned to the mouth of the river in the afternoon and this produced stunning views of a Malachite Kingfisher.
We moved south to Ngala Lodge and again the birding was exceptional. The new owners here described the camp as providing “the best birdwatching on Lake Malawi”; this statement may not be far from the truth especially if and when they build the bird hide they are planning. The lodge sits on a hillside surrounded by tall trees overlooking gardens, a large Reed-bed system and the lake itself. Birds here included Southern Masked Weaver, African Fish Eagle (that can be seen in the tall trees behind camp), Dark-capped Bulbul, Little Bee-eater and Speckled Mousebird. A walk in the gardens stirred a number of the African genus, Collared Palm Thrush from the vegetation. Bird of the day however would prove to be a Bohm’s Bee-eater.
The next morning I surfaced early and was rewarded with the first bird of the day being a Mangrove Kingfisher. A rarity this far inland. Closer inspection of the local sparrows, revealed them to be the first Southern Grey-headed Sparrows of the trip, with their less prominent white throat. The Reed-beds also produced a good tick, a Black-winged Bishop, told from Southern Red Bishop by its thicker bill and full red crown. Other new birds this morning included Reed Cormorant, Senegal Coucal and a breeding male Fan-tailed Widowbird. The variety of new birds discovered here certainly go some way to back up the owners' claim.
The remainder of my time in Malawi was spent at Senga Beach Wheelhouse Camp. The habitat here consisted of reed-beds, small lagoons and rocky shores. The neighbouring camp had a pier into the bay, offering good birdwatching opportunities. It also played host to a number of Wire-tailed Swallows. The first Water Thick-knee’s were seen on nearby rocks from this vantage point. A friendly dog soon threatened to ruin my day, only to flush a Green-backed Heron from the Reeds. The lagoon contained White-faced Duck and up to 23 White-fronted Plover including juveniles. Other birds seen here included, Three-banded Plover, African Jacana, Thick-billed (Grosbeak) Weaver, Little Egret, Hamerkop and African Mourning Dove.
An early afternoon stroll through scrub behind some nearby sand dunes provided 3 Lilac-breasted Rollers and the camp itself was also home to many South African Tree Squirrels. Later that afternoon, I decided to go for a wander through the reeds to see if I could flush any Crakes or Snipe. It wasn’t long before a Black Crake darted noisily into the distance. Further into the reeds and two birds that I at first thought to be Snipe, rose from the ground and rapidly flew into cover. Then I spotted something through the reeds. The first Nightjar I had ever seen. I approached cautiously with camera in hand. I managed to get within 5m of the bird, had a good look for markings to help with ID, and then started to take some photos. I have included my best effort in the report. These birds are notoriously difficult to identify and unfortunately could not be separated by range. Bob Sternstedt later advised me that it was a Square-tailed (Mozambique) Nightjar. For me this unexpected find was bird of the trip so far.
ZAMBIA
Days 25 – 29 Chipata to Lusaka. Livingstone. Zambezi River cruise. Birding with Bob – power lines Miombo, Tiata Falcon Lodge and Livingstone sewage works. Victoria Falls.
On our way from Chipata to Lusaka we stopped for yet another roadside lunch stop in an area of broadleaved woodland. I soon heard the call of some Hornbills. I ran back onto the truck and grabbed my binoculars and a quick look told me they were all common African Grey Hornbill. Nevertheless, they were the first Hornbills of the trip and taught me never to the leave the truck without my binoculars again. As we set off, a Yellow-billed Kite circled above, looking to see if we had left any scraps.
We had an overnight stay in Eureka Camp in Lusaka, where I went for my usual morning ‘reccy’. The campgrounds yielded yet more new birds. White-browed (Heuglin’s) Robin Chat, Green-winged Pytilia (Melba Finch) and Brimstone (Bully) Canary to name but a few. This walk also gave me close encounters of Zebra, Giraffe and the first Eland of the trip. These were seen frequently strolling through camp.
The next day I experienced the adrenaline-fuelled joy of white-water rafting down the Grade 5 Zambezi River, although not before I’d added Red-winged Starling to the list from the top of the gorge. The rafting is a phenomenal day out and I would urge anyone to give it a try. I doubt you will manage to beat my record of falling out 4 times!
The next day I would see a total of 41 lifers and a day total around the 80 mark, observed both on my guided days birding with Bob and on the evening Zambezi River sunset ‘booze’ cruise. Bob picked me up from Grotto’s camp in Livingstone at 7am and we set off for a section of Miombo forest he knew on the edge of town. Here Bob’s knowledge and uncanny knack of calling birds in by imitating their calls proved invaluable. The birding highlights here included Neddicky (Piping Cisticola), White-winged Widowbird, Red-backed Shrike, Common Scimitarbill, Tawny-flanked Prinia, White-bellied Sunbird, Golden-breasted Bunting, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Brubru, Yellow-bellied Eromomela, Tinkling Cisticola, Gymnogene, Ovambo Sparrowhawk, Striped Kingfisher, Yellow Bishop, Brown Snake Eagle (see photograph), Bateleur, European Bee-eater, White-browed Scrub Robin, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird (that Bob summoned by whistling), Wahlberg Eagle and White-browed Sparrow Weaver. On our way to our next site a Slender-tailed Mongoose sprinted across the road and 80 plus Marabou Stork circled above an abattoir on the outskirts of town. A fine start to the day.
The first major ‘dip’ of the trip came at the Tiata Falcon Lodge, where the hotel's namesake failed to make an appearance. We also missed the regularly sited Black Eagle. However, all was not lost as we managed to see Rock Martin, Peregrine Falcon, Mocking Cliff Chat, Red-billed Hornbill, Chin-spot Batis, Grey head Bush-shrike, Black Cuckooshrike, Emerald Spotted Wood-dove, Steppe Buzzard, Familiar Chat, Long-billed Crombec, Red-billed Helmet-shrike and good views of a Dark Chanting Goshawk.
Time spent at Livingstone sewage works only produced one new bird for the list, the Lesser Gallinule but did hold a decent selection of waders and associated water birds. I arrived back at Grotto’s at 3pm US$100 worse off but a very happy boy. The day's birding had added 36 new birds to the list. I now had to prepare myself for the sunset ‘booze’ cruise.
Little did I know, but as part of a ridiculous plan schemed up by truck driver Kyle, I was required to don a fancy dress costume as picked by a randomly selected member of the tour group. Predictably I was handed a silk cape with a colourful African Fish Eagle emblazoned upon it. The outfit was made complete by a fetching set of wings and a nappy for my head with the words, “I am the birdman” inscribed upon them.
Undeterred, I packed the essentials into a bag- guidebook, notebook and binoculars and we went on our merry way. Bob told me earlier that if we passed a part of the Zambezi called Long Island at dusk, to look in the treetops for African Scops Owl. And sure enough there it was right on cue. The sandy banks of the river and the lower branches of the trees had the first of many African Darter. White-crowned Lapwing, Open-billed Stork and the only Woolly-necked stork of the trip completed the day’s achievements. I sat back on the upper deck and supped a cold beer or two and watched the sun set on the watery horizon. I had just gone through the 200-bird barrier.
The next morning we were dropped off for a couple of hours to explore the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls. A most impressive sight, especially as we had hit them at a good time of year, when the falls are flowing at around 75% of their maximum capacity. Birding opportunities are limited here but two birds to look out for are Trumpeter Hornbill, which I saw from the bridge across to the wettest viewing galleries; and Schalow’s Lourie. To see this you will have to take on the climb down to the ‘boiling pot’ and have a bit of luck, as I’m told it can be difficult to see, although I found it within half an hour. Be warned this is a steep (600m) track and if I hadn’t seen the bird I might well have stayed down there for good. From here we drove the short distance across the bridge and into Zimbabwe.
ZIMBABWE
Days 29-31 Victoria Falls. Shoestrings Backpackers.
A quiet period for birding after all the excitement of the past week or so. Being in the middle of town didn’t provide the opportunity for my usual birding routine. So it was left to me to organise a few of the girls to come along on a ‘nature walk’ with me along the Zambezi River. I had planned to do this walk on my own but after meeting some of the local hawkers and chatting to tour guides, I decided against going it alone. The river walk from the ‘Big Tree’ to Elephant Hills Hotel is meant to be fantastic for nature viewing. However, when I discovered that this nature included Elephant, Lion and Hippo, I was slightly put off. Furthermore, the Lonely Planet warns not to walk down here on your own because of the “danger of being mugged”.
The adventurer in me persuaded myself and two of the girls from the group to introduce a bit of danger to our lives. In fact, it was this edge to the walk that made it all the more exciting. You just didn’t know what was around the corner. In the end we didn’t see anything too scary, although one of the girls did manage to mistake a Warthog for a Rhino. The low rumblings of Hippo could be heard from the river and some Baboons flitted between the trees. I did manage to add a couple of birds to the list. Crested Hornbill and Black-collared Barbet.
In the afternoon, while the two girls recovered from their ordeal, I set off to view the Falls from the Zimbabwe side. This perspective of the falls allows you to grasp just how massive they are, stretching far and wide. Along the paths lived a number of Vervet Monkeys, lovingly preening each other and kindly posing for photographs. Also in a photogenic mood was a Trumpeter Hornbill, seeking shade from the sun in the forest canopy.
BOTSWANA
Days 32 – 38 Thebe Camp, Kasane. Chobe National Park. Chobe River cruise. Road to Maun. Maun Rest Camp. Okavango Delta.
The first camp in Botswana added Grey-faced go-away bird, Brown throated Swallow, Hartlaub’s Babbler, Red-billed Spurfowl and Village Indigobird to the list of birds seen. Situated on the banks of the Chobe river meant that a good variety of birds were present, the best of which included close views of Giant Kingfisher and Cardinal Woodpecker. A dark morph Little Egret was also in attendance.
The next morning took us to Chobe National Park, which proved to be another successful birding spot. The highlight of the day was seeing a Wattled Crane cross the track in front of us. Our guide said it was very unusual to see this bird in Chobe, as this species is vulnerable throughout Africa especially this far south. Two new endemic species also made their homes here, Burchell’s Starling and Swainson’s Spurfowl, followed by a Red-billed Oxpecker sitting on the back of a Hippo and the long-tailed Eastern Paradise Whydah. Other birds of note seen here included Kori Bustard, many Lilac Breasted Rollers, Squacco Heron, Water Dikkop (Stone Curlew), and Brown Snake Eagle. The park also afforded us Chobe Puku, Buffalo, Kudu, Giraffe and Elephant. Sadly the group's hopes of seeing a Leopard to complete the ‘Big 5’were now beginning to disappear.
In the afternoon we went on a cruise along the Chobe River. I had been looking forward to this 3-hour trip since I first read about it on the itinerary and I wasn’t disappointed. The first Black-shouldered Kite sat on top of a tree overlooking the scene, then along some tangled lower branches sat the first Blue-checked Bee-eater of the day. I followed three small duck-like birds onto the branch of a tree, which turned out to be African Pygmy Geese. The low branches that overhang much of one side of the river, acted as diving boards for Pied, Woodland and Striped Kingfisher (usually not associated with water). Then a Grey-headed Kingfisher came into view, another life tick for me.
A number of Black Egrets were seen umbrella feeding in the shallows by the edge of the Reeds. Then as the river meandered a different direction the banks became sandier and it was here that I saw the first Long-toed and Wattled Plover of the trip. Other wetland birds witnessed included African Darter, Reed Cormorant, Green-backed Heron, Marsh Sandpiper, Lesser Gallinule, African Jacana and over 50 Ruff. The target bird for the cruise however still evaded me, the Great White Egret. I knew that even on a river covered with Little Egrets and Cattle Egrets, these should be easily picked out owing to their sheer size. I had to wait until late in the evening but much to my relief one did turn up, then another, then a third.
One of the major surprises of the trip was the birding along the road from Chobe to Maun. I christened it ‘raptor road’. At first I wasn’t paying much attention and was woken by the truck suddenly grinding to a halt. I looked up to see the road ahead covered in vultures feasting on some recent road-kill. They soon flew off as the truck approached, but I did have enough time to identify at least 2 Hooded Vultures. We sped off again with me now paying close attention to the treetops and telephone posts along the road. It wasn’t long before a Steppe Eagle and several Yellow-billed Kites came into view. I decided to count how many Lilac-breasted Rollers I could see sitting on the telephone wires. I was interrupted on 15 by the truck stopping again for a large group of Common Ostrich. While the tour group discussed the not too subtle differences between these and the Masai race Ostriches seen in Kenya, I discovered a Southern Carmine Bee-eater clinging to some tall grass. Another eye-catching creature.
I was pleased to stop for lunch along this stretch of road. Scanning the skies, I discovered Brown Snake Eagle, Black-chested Snake Eagle and an immature African Fish Eagle. A brief wander into scrub saw the first African Red- eyed Bulbul and Shaft-tailed Whydah of the tour. A flock of around 65 Red-billed Queleas also frantically moved from shrub to shrub. Soon after packing up following our latest sandwich lunch and moving on, I spotted two Pale Chanting Goshawks proudly standing on top of telephone posts. This section of road deserves a great deal more coverage than simply driving along admiring the views and stopping a few times. There are some good birds to be found here.
We arrived at Maun Rest Camp earlier than expected and, as the days were getting longer as we moved south, this gave me ample time to explore. The campgrounds themselves soon offered up large numbers of endemic Meve’s Starling, a lonesome Woodland Kingfisher, a particularly domesticated African Grey Hornbill and some African Hoopoe. As I walked through some woodland I could hear the tapping sound of a Woodpecker, but failed to locate it. Many Red-billed Spurfowl scurried around in the undergrowth. Then as I emerged from the forest I discovered a narrow swamp that stretched as far as the eye could see, guarded on both sides by tall trees. Needless to say it was teeming with bird life.
A scan with my spotting scope revealed 2 White-backed Duck, the first of the trip, mixed in with White-faced Duck. Then as I moved closer to the waters edge, in ones, then in twos and finally in large swaths, vast numbers of Open-billed Stork glided effortlessly into the trees. I repositioned the scope and scanned the far bank that was covered in reeds and much to my surprise, a flock of 30 Meyer’s (Brown) Parrot. As I continued along six enormous Southern Ground Hornbill were shocked into flight. I returned to camp in the dark, glad at my decision to take my head torch. It was only afterwards, while eating tea in camp, that I was informed of the area's abundance of crocodiles. They must already have eaten.
The next three days were spent camping in the wilds of the Okavango Delta, a vast expanse of river channels, reeds and pools that filter the waters of the Kavango River. We travelled through here on Mokoros, wooden canoes carved from the trunk of a single tree. Our guides were also our ‘polers’, pushing the canoes through the water with minimal effort.
On the way to the part of the delta where we would meet our polers, I saw a Yellow-billed Hornbill. Then not long into my first journey on a Mokoro my guide pointed out a Black Coucal sitting in the grass. We set up our home for the next 2 nights in a stand of trees by the waters edge. Over the next few hours from the comfort of my camp chair, I recorded Senegal Coucal, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Golden Weaver, Red-billed Firefinch, Blue Waxbill, Red-billed Quelea, Hartlaub’s Babbler, Squacco Heron, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, White-browed Robin Chat, Pied Kingfisher, Open-billed Stork, African Jacana and Reed Cormorant. But sadly no new species to report.
In the late afternoon when the heat of the day (40 degrees C) had subsided, we went on a short guided walk. The habitat consisted mostly of arid savannah, with scattered Baobab and other smaller trees. Close to a large Baobab tree sat the first and only Dickinson’s Kestrel of the trip. This was followed by Magpie (long-tailed) Shrike, Cape Glossy Starling, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver and Black-bellied Korhaan, all new to the trip. I was particularly pleased with managing to spot the latter, as it was difficult to pick out against a termite mound. Other birds noted during the walk included Peregrine Falcon, Lilac-breasted Roller, Grey Go-away Bird and Carmine Bee-eater.
Early the next morning we went on a 3 hour guided walk around the same area as before. After an hour or so we discovered a mixed herd of Wildebeest and Burchell’s Zebra drinking at a waterhole. As we observed the scene, I heard the repeated calls of a Rufous- naped Lark and soon found it on top of a nearby shrub. Then a Comb (White-knobbed) Duck flew past. As we walked further into the wilderness we could see many Steenbok in the distance, and then close by an African Wild Cat bolted from the tall grass. Yet more Lilac-breasted Rollers sat on top of the trees and Pale Chanting Goshawk, three Bateleur and a Brown Snake Eagle filled the skies.
Another frustrating aspect of the trip was my inability to identify any Snipe. On several occasions, I managed to flush them from the ground, only for them to vanish before I could get a good look at them. This happened again this morning. As we walked through the reeds with water up to our ankles, two flew up and all I could see was a golden ‘V’ on their backs and that they had quite long wings. However, my frustration was short lived as a bull Elephant appeared out of the trees and into a clearing by the water. We all looked on in awe as it munched its way through its breakfast of grass. On our return to camp I was pleased to see the Dickinson’s Kestrel sitting on the same perch as yesterday.
That afternoon we were taken by our polers for an afternoon cruise down-stream from camp. During this time our canoe was taken deep into the reeds by the poler, where he showed me the first Lesser Jacana of the trip. On our return journey to camp I was pleased to see my first Purple Heron. That night a deluge of rain interrupted dinner and brought our time in the Okavango Delta to a wet and sodden conclusion.
We made it back to Maun Rest Camp the following morning and I completed my birding in Botswana with my first look at a Laughing (palm) Dove.
NAMIBIA
Days 39- 51 Ngepi Camp, Caprivi Strip. Baobab Tree. Etosha National Park- Fisher’s Pan, Namutoni Camp, Halali Camp, Okaukeujo Camp. Cape Cross seal colony. Swakopmund. Walvis Bay. Sossusvlei. Kokieplapa Camp. Orange River.
As I mentioned in the introduction, the guided bird walk at the Ngepi Camp was a major disappointment. Before the walk took place I had already noted 20 species in an area of marsh just outside camp. During the walk itself, I did see three new species-Swamp Boubou, Brown-hooded Kingfisher and African Stonechat. However, I left thinking I would have been better off on my own.
On our way from Ngepi to Etosha, we stopped for lunch at a place called Baobab Tree. Here we could take the opportunity to walk down a 1.5km track to see the tree itself. It is as you might expect, a very big tree. This walk also produced some good birds around a waterhole close to the tree. This included an endemic Cape Shoveler and a pair of endemic Rosy-faced Lovebirds sitting on palm leaves beside a Red-billed Buffalo Weaver nest. Other birds seen on this walk included Kori Bustard, Green Backed Heron, Common Moorhen and southern Yellow-billed Hornbill.
On our way to our first campsite in Etosha we saw many Black-faced Impala and a single Damara Dik-Dik. We shared the Namutoni Camp with a family of Banded Mongoose and a number of Black-backed Jackals. However, that evening we would be joined by a most unwelcome visitor.
We set up our tents and I headed straight for the camps very own floodlit waterhole, one of a number of reasons why Etosha was my favourite National Park visited in Africa. On this occasion the midday sun restricted the wildlife to a few Egyptian Geese and a number of Red-knobbed (crested) Coot, the latter being new to the trip.
In the afternoon we had our first game drive around Fishers Pan, which at this time of year is an enormous saltpan. At other times of the year, when in flood, it can hold spectacular numbers of Flamingo. Nevertheless many pools along the edge of the pan still retained some water.
As we stopped to view the first Springbok and Gemsbok of the trip, I also saw the first of many endemic Marico Flycatchers. A Northern Black Korhaan was then spotted by the side of the track; its loud calls were heard as it flew past our truck. As we continued around the pan a flock of 14 Black-winged Pratincole were seen. We stopped at a number of waterholes and here I found the first Greater Flamingos, South African Shelducks and Little Grebes of the trip.
Following another meeting with a Secretarybird, we came across two Blue Crane, which are endemic to South Africa, where it is also the national bird. Unfortunately this handsome species is becoming increasingly vulnerable.
When we arrived back in camp I went directly to the waterhole to see if I could see any of the Sandgrouse that come to drink after sunset. It was here that I first bumped into Euan Mc Clachan and a few others from the nature trek group. They quickly pointed out a Spotted Dikkop and encouraged me to wait with them for the Sandgrouse to appear. While we waited we heard the low roar of a Lion in the distance. It was shortly after 8.30pm when two Double-banded Sandgrouse emerged from the gloom to drink. Not the spectacular numbers I had been expecting, but a lifer nonetheless.
I walked back towards camp hoping there would still be some food left. But as I walked by the chalets to where the overland trucks and campervans were parked, I noticed that no one was around. Everyone was indoors. I could see the rest of my group and crew looking at me with blank expressions from the truck. Then I heard someone shout out the window, “hurry up there’s a Lion in camp”. I thought nothing of it, I looked around and saw a few Jackals, but they are nothing to get overly concerned about. I thought it was all a big set-up. So I casually plodded over to the truck and jumped on .The door was slammed shut behind me. I then started to believe the hype myself. When I looked out the window I saw a vehicle speedily circling the campsite shining a beam of light into the bushes. Then gunfire. Dear God, there was a Lion in camp. An old male Lion had strayed into camp, so all the gates were closed (to stop the rest of the pride following it in) and the rangers hunted it down and killed it, before it could make someone in camp easy pickings. Maybe they should tell the people at the waterhole the next time a hungry Lion wanders into camp!
After a rather sleepless night in my tent, I was glad to be leaving Namutoni Camp the next morning on another game drive. Our route passed several small waterholes and a number of larger lakes. New birds included Common Ringed Plover, Violet-eared Waxbill, Scaly-feathered Finch, Lesser Grey Shrike, Pale-winged Starling and a juvenile Saddle-billed Stork. As the truck stopped for Red Hartebeest, I noticed a colourful Crimson- breasted Shrike and a colourless Dusky Sunbird, sitting in a nearby tree.
As we arrived at our lunch stop at Halali Camp, I saw the nature trek group staring into a tree. I couldn’t get out of the truck and across to them before they had driven off, but thought they surely couldn’t have been looking at the Groundscraper Thrush I saw there (although new to me). I scanned the surrounding treetops and saw a Brown Snake Eagle perched on top of a red and white radio transmitter (there are many of these along the route and are all worth checking). It was only when I met up with them again that evening that I discovered they were looking at an African Scops Owl.
While some others prepared lunch I went in search of the camp's waterhole. A tree lined path leads the way from camp to a rocky outcrop overlooking a small pool of water. Along this path I saw a flock of White Helmet-shrikes. A female Violet-backed Starling sat on a rock towards the top. Three Marabou Stork stretched their gaping wings and drank from the pool.
On the afternoon drive to Okaukeujo Camp I saw the first Cape (black) Crow, Red-headed Finch and Capped Wheatears of the trip. The camp itself is famous for its Sociable Weavers nests. These gregarious creatures had made a nest so large that its weight had snapped the branch off a tree. Also in camp I was pleased to find a colourful Acacia Pied Barbet. The evening was spent at the camp waterhole and was perhaps the highlight of the whole trip. First a herd of 22 elephants including some young appeared at dusk to drink. These were followed by large numbers of Zebra and some Black-faced Impala. As the light faded a family of 3 Black Rhino appeared and shared the pool with the Elephants. On the horizon the long necks of 4 Giraffe could be seen making their way to the waterhole. As the elephants drank their fill and ventured away, the Giraffes nervously approached the waterhole and began to drink awkwardly beside the Black Rhino. Darkness fell upon the scene, soon to be broken as the floodlights gradually came on.
When I returned to the waterhole after my evening meal, I was delighted to see that 5 Black Rhino were now in attendance (seemingly not that endangered in Etosha). Then I noticed the unmistakable outline of an owl sitting on the single large tree that overhangs the water. I moved down through the viewing galleries to get a better view. It wasn’t just any old owl but the Giant Verreaux’s Eagle Owl. I watched as it flew down from its perch on a stump halfway down the trunk and onto the ground below. It stayed around for a further 20 minutes before vanishing into the night. I met up again with the nature trek group and Euan invited me to join them the following morning for a pre-breakfast bird walk around camp.
I was delighted to accept the opportunity of joining guide Charles Rhyn and the others for a brief outing. The one and a half hour morning jaunt produced 11 new birds for me. These included, Black-chested Prinia, Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler, Gabor Goshawk, Rattling Cisticola, Black-faced Waxbill, Black-throated Canary, Ashy Grey Tit, Icterine Warbler, Little Swift and African Palm Swift. However the highlight of the morning came when Charles used recorded calls to bring in two diminutive African Pygmy Falcons. This shrike-like species breeds in the aforementioned Sociable Weaver nests.
After spending a day and night at the over-rated Otjitotongwe Cheetah farm, that produced no new birds and three tame Cheetahs, I was pleased to be on the road again to the Namibian coastal resort of Swakopmund, via Cape Cross. This road dissects the vast Namib Desert and was in great contrast to the grassy plains of east Africa. As the road passed Brandberg Mountain, the highest peak in Namibia, I was happy to see several groups of endemic Ruppell’s Korhaan. The largest of these was a family of 5.
We eventually arrived at the coast, where we stopped for lunch. Brilliant I thought, time for some sea watching! The only new species I found was Cape Gull. Further down the coast is the Cape Fur Seal colony at Cape Cross. Depending on time of year the numbers of seal here vary between 20,000 and 100,000. It should also attract a good amount of sea birds. The limited number of new birds I discovered here reflect how this was not a good time of year to see pelagic species. These were Ruddy Turnstone, Swift Tern, Cape Cormorant, Bank Cormorant and Cape Wagtail. Other species also seen were Red-capped Lark, Cape Gull and White-fronted Plover.
I must admit before going on this trip I had done little research into birding in Namibia south of Etosha National Park and Cape Cross. Had I done so, I would have discovered the Ramsar site at Walvis Bay, a haven for tens of thousands of waders and home to one of the largest breeding populations of Flamingo in southern Africa. Indeed, it is said to be the second most important wetland area in the whole of Africa. In other words, not to be missed. Almost as impressive is the much smaller wetland area in Swakopmund itself.
The reed-fringed lagoon at the mouth of the Swakopmund River provided an excellent afternoon's birding. The walk through town, passing through streets of typical German architecture, housed large numbers of Cape Sparrow. Once you reach the sea front it is impossible to miss the pier, which has a purpose built platform for seabirds at its end. New species seen here were Hartlaub’s Gull, Common Tern and Damara Tern. However, most of the birds here are Cape Cormorant, which would take considerable patience to look through for Bank or Crowned varieties.
I walked down the beach towards the Swakopmund river mouth and standing out amongst several White-fronted Plover were some Grey (Black-bellied) Plover. The lagoon itself was very rewarding, with Sandwich Tern, Pied Avocet, Cape Teal, Maccoa Duck, Whimbrel and Kittlitz’s Plover all added to the list. Other birds in attendance included, Greater and Lesser Flamingo, Black-winged Stilt, Common Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Little Stint, Common Moorhen, Red Knobbed Coot, Little Grebe, Purple Swamphen, Grey Heron, Cape Wagtail, Little Egret and Great White Pelican.
Early the following morning I took a taxi the 30km or so to Walvis Bay and got dropped off at the sewage works, an area supposed to be a ‘bird paradise’. Unfortunately, I discovered that since around 1995 the sewage works have seen many pollution incidents and many of the previous shallow lakes have dried up. The only new birds found here were Common Waxbill and African Reed Warbler.
I walked through the city centre for about 45 minutes before I reached the impressive lagoon. The only difficulty is that the lagoon is enormous and you really need a car to bird it adequately. It certainly holds large populations of birds, but unfortunately not the Chestnut-banded Plover I was looking for. I did manage to see a total of 7 bulky Caspian Tern from the Esplanade. After walking for around 2 hours, a car pulled over and I was glad to see it was another birder. He worked for Finnish tourist development and was on some sort of fact-finding mission to find out about bird watching opportunities along the southern Namibian coast. He offered to take me to spot where he regularly sees the Chestnut-banded Plover, at the end of the salt works road. Another major dip. We did however see 2 Red-necked Phalarope, Kelp Gulls (a recent split from Cape Gull), Sanderling and Black-necked Grebe. Where the salt works finally meet the ocean, half an hour's sea watching produced at least 5 Cape Gannets.
This relatively small part of Namibia does have a good number of species and I would recommend it to anyone with a shorter trip in mind. A keen birder could see over 100 species in a day here.
The next day we left the cool temperatures of Swakopmund and headed to the heat of the Namib Naukluft National Park and the Namib Desert. Here we would go to Sossusvlei and the famous ‘Dune 45’ to watch sunrise and meet a San Bushman.
On our way to the park, we stopped for lunch at a mountain pass. Temperatures here were easily the hottest of the trip; the group could only guess how hot it was. We thought it might even be 50 degrees C! Nonetheless, the searing heat didn’t prevent me from identifying a Mountain Wheatear sharing the shade with us over lunch. The camp here, at the boundary of the park, offered little respite from the heat. But I did see the first Speckled Pigeon and Four-striped Desert Mouse of the trip.
The guided walk through the dunes with the Bushman was very enjoyable. He showed us many insects and lizards and talked at length about the history of his people and their hunter-gatherer culture, but offered little in the way of birding. At the end of the walk the Bushman sensed my disappointment and offered to take me to a site he knew for the endemic Dune Lark. I jumped at the chance. So off I went in search of a little bird in the middle of the Namib Desert with a Bushman. Surreal. Sadly the heat of the day meant that no birds could be seen around the vegetation of ‘Dune 3’. But it was good to have a go nonetheless.
An evening walk at Kokieplapa Camp returned the second species of Nightjar of the trip, which proved to be the Rufous-checked variety. As it darted from the ground I turned and managed to view it with my binoculars, while at the same time realising I had just stepped on a massive thorn, which had kindly become impaled in my foot. I also ticked Karoo Scrub Robin off the list, as I limped back for medical attention. In keeping with most campsites visited in Namibia, a number of Familiar Chats bounced around and I almost got one onto my hand here.
We stayed the next two nights at a campsite overlooking the Orange River, which forms part of the border between Namibia and South Africa. It wasn’t long before I had seen the locally common endemic Orange River White Eye, singing merrily in tree next to my tent. This was closely followed by a Karoo Thrush inspecting what had just been set on the table for lunch (more sandwiches if I remember correctly).
I ventured down to the river's edge and set up my scope by the water's edge. It took a while to find one of the hundreds of Swallows perched on a branch on the South African side of the river. This was the first White-throated Swallow of the trip. There were also many Brown-throated and Barn Swallows in flight over the river. In some standing water on the far side I saw a small group of African Black Ducks. The river and surrounding vegetation also held Namaqua Dove, Malachite Kingfisher, southern Red Bishop, Blacksmith Plover, Common Sandpiper, Cape Wagtail, African Pied Wagtail, Reed Cormorant, African Darter and Grey Heron. Bird of the day was the second Goliath Heron of the trip. I was stumbling along the pebbly riverbanks, trying to see if any of hirundines were Sand Martins (they were not, probably already on their northward migration), when this huge creature appeared out of nowhere. I sat my scope down and watched the Goliath Heron fly onto a rock some 500m downstream. Then I heard the crash of my scope hitting the ground. Not totally smashed, but it did take the some of the shine off the rest of the day's birding.
The next afternoon I was lucky enough to see an African Rail out in the open in an area of standing water. It quickly disappeared into the reeds when it saw me.
Whilst in Namibia we also visited Fish River Canyon, the second largest canyon in the world. Here there were a number of friendly Pale-winged Starling overlooking the vast chasm below (see photograph). A Cape Ground Squirrel was also in a sociable mood.
The next morning we crossed the border into South Africa, our eighth and final country of the tour.
SOUTH AFRICA
Days 52- 59 Cedarberg, Gecko’s Backpackers. Cape Town- Table Mountain, Cape Peninsula, Sir Lowry’s Pass, Strandfontein sewage works and Kirstenbosch botanical gardens. Paarl Bird Sanctuary. Paarl Mountain Reserve. West Coast National Park. Boulders Beach. De Hoop Nature Reserve.
The grounds of the backpackers in the Cedarberg wine region provided some good early morning birds, with White-backed Mousebird, Cape Robin Chat and Southern Boubou seen here for the first time.
At a service station on our way to Cape Town, I saw the first of many European Starlings, catching drops of water from sprinkler heads on the grass.
After finally reaching Cape Town, I bid farewell to the group and crew and we went our separate ways. I was staying in the pleasant Cape Town Backpackers, which offered cheap single rooms, off street parking and easy access to the motorway. From here I planned to go on a series of birding day trips in the hire car I had pre-booked.
The first afternoon was spent going up Table Mountain in the cable car. The panoramic views from here are breathtaking. I walked the trail to the highest point, which took me away from the crowds. Few birds were seen, apart from a single White-necked Raven gliding in the thermals produced by the steep sides of the mountain. The highlight of the afternoon was seeing a handful of the many thousand of Fynbos plant species, that help make the Western Cape one of the best places in the world to see endemic birds. It wasn’t long before Table Mountain’s ‘table cloth’ appeared as the clouds rolled in, helping me get lost three times before I made it back to the cable car.
I set off early the next morning hoping to make the most of the day's birding around Paarl. The first site visited was Paarl Bird Sanctuary, which is actually the town’s sewage works. However, it is well set up as a birding destination and allows birders access to the gravel roads that lead around the many shallow lakes and forest areas that make up the sanctuary. I spent most of the morning here and new birds seen were Great Crested Grebe, Black-crowned Night-heron, Cape Canary, Greater-striped Swallow, Cape White Eye and Cape Weaver.
My visit to Paarl Mountain Reserve and especially the wildflower garden produced a number of new birds including a good selection of Cape endemics. These were Cape Bulbul, Cape Sugarbird, Malachite Sunbird, Lesser Double-collared Sunbird, Orange-breasted Sunbird, Fiscal Flycatcher and Cape Bunting. On the network of roads around the reserve I found many endemic Cape Francolins. When I got out of the car to scan a nearby lake, I discovered a South African special. From the far end of the lake I watched a raptor as it flew over my head and onto a granite boulder only a few hundred metres away from were I was standing. It perched here long enough to reinforce my identification as a spectacular adult Jackal Buzzard.
I was on the road early the following morning, on my way to meeting my guide for the day, Keith Barnes. After quickly discussing my target birds for the day, it was decided to bird the west coast. The first site of the day wasn’t at all what I was expecting. Nevertheless, the coastal scrub around Koeberg Nuclear Power Plant did get the day off to a promising start. New birds seen here included Bokmakierie, Yellow Canary, White-throated Canary, Cape Grassbird and Cape (orange-throated) Longclaw. We then went along a back road through some agricultural fields. This area produced not only excellent views of Southern Black Korhaan and Pied Starling, but also the highlight of the day for Keith. A Black-footed Wild Cat roamed the area. This was only the second time Keith had seen one of these in his native South Africa.
We moved on to the small but incredibly diverse Tienie Versveld Wildflower Reserve. Here we saw Large-billed Lark and eventually we discovered a Cloud Cisticola performing a wonderful aerial display.
The West Coast National Park is renowned as a birding location and boasts a number of hides on the shores of the lagoon. The tide was high when we arrived, so Keith thought it best to move to a different location and return later in the day at low tide. On our way out Keith told me to stop, as he had spotted a raptor in the sky that he wanted to identify. It turned out to be one of the finest birds seen on the trip, a Black Harrier. We stopped at a lookout point on the coast where I was shown Crowned Cormorant, Little Tern and African Black Oystercatcher. At Veldrif salt works, I finally caught up with the Chestnut-banded Plover I had asked to see.
On our return to the West Coast National Park, the tide had dropped enough to reveal mud for waders. From the hides I saw many hundreds of Curlew Sandpiper and Sanderling. Good numbers of Bar-tailed Godwit and Red Knot, both firsts for the trip, were also seen. Bird of the day was a Common Redshank (I still find this strange coming from the western Palaearctic), a rare vagrant this far south. Along the boardwalk to one of the hides we saw a Levaillant’s Cisticola and heard an African Rail.
Other new species seen today, including many endemics, were Rock Kestrel, White-winged Tern, African Black Swift, Alpine Swift, Red-faced Mousebird, Cape Long-billed Lark, Grey-backed Sparrowlark, Banded Martin, Southern Grey Tit, Cape Penduline-Tit, Sickle-winged Chat, Little Rush (African Sedge) Warbler, Bar-throated Apalis, Grey-backed Cisticola and Karoo Prinia. The day total of birds seen was 130, with a further 2 heard only. Of this total, 30 were lifers. This was a fantastic day's birding with an excellent guide.
I followed Keith’s advice and took to the road to Sir Lowry’s Pass early the next morning. I was in search of the endemic and elusive Cape Rock-jumper. Three and half-hours walking back and forth along a mountain ridge, listening for and following high-pitched whistles, followed by some ‘pishing’ and whistling of my own and still no Rock-jumpers. The silence was only broken by a solitary Dusky Sunbird that followed me around. Another dip. I did manage to redeem some credit when I saw Rock Kestrel, Orange-breasted Sunbird, Alpine Swift, White-necked Raven and more Familiar Chats. I still enjoyed myself though, as I sat on top of a mountain pass, watching the sunrise herald a new day in Cape Town and hearing the distant din of traffic as folk headed to work.
I had only a few days left and I was starting to think that I might not see any new birds. These doubts increased after spending a few fruitless hours at the magnificent Strandfontein sewage works, a vast network of reed fringed lakes, which held thousands upon thousands of birds, but unfortunately no new ones for me. If you are planning a trip that starts in Cape Town this would be a good place to begin. I managed to see 41 species in a little over two hours, including 12 endemic or near endemics.
At last a guaranteed tick. The African Penguin at Boulder’s beach. I was surprised at how close you were able to get to these odd creatures (see photograph). This is one of the most popular tourist spots on the Cape, so I wasn’t surprised to see that the number of people there nearly outnumbered the 1000 or so breeding pairs of birds.
I then drove into the Cape Peninsula reserve hoping to end the day on a high. The scrub close to Cape Point held Cape Bunting, Fiscal Flycatcher, Bokmakierie and Common Ostrich. Around Cape point itself I saw Swift Tern, Cape Gannet and a Peregrine Falcon sitting on top of the obligatory red and white mast. I drove down to the Cape of Good Hope and a saw a Steppe Buzzard close to the road. Hundreds of Cape Cormorant use the cliffs here to roost. It wasn’t until after seven o’clock in the evening that I finally managed to spot the target bird of the day, a Cape Siskin.
As a matter of interest I was keeping a day list today, to see if the 130 birds seen a few days previously with my guide Keith was as impressive as I had thought. I managed 62 birds, 2 of which were lifers. Draw your own conclusions.
For my penultimate day's birding I drove the 3 and half hours from Cape Town to De Hoop Nature reserve. The dirt road that leads the 10kms from the main road into the reserve held a good number of birds, but none I hadn’t seen before. The reserve itself was a bit of a disappointment. I found it to be poorly laid out with few sign posts, although the beach was deserted and unspoiled and held a few Black Oystercatchers. In the afternoon I went to the Potberg section of the reserve to try and tick the endemic Cape Vulture, in what is one of the last breeding colonies remaining in the Western Cape. Sadly, I was told that if I wanted to see them I could either climb to the top of the mountain (no thanks its 30 degrees C), or wait until just before dark when they can be seen circling above (no thanks I want to get back to Cape Town before midnight). So I decided I would have a change of plan for the rest of the day. Before I left I thought I should at least check out the bottom section of the mountain, which had a small area of mature woodland. I was pleased with my decision when my latest ‘pishing’ attempts brought in a Cape Batis. I was delighted.
The route for the rest of the day went from De Hoop to Hermanus, where I saw the only Rock Hyrax of the trip, then onto Stoney Point for some less crowded views of penguins. From Betty’s Bay to Gordon’s Bay, then the breathtaking drive along the coastal route to Cape Town.
My final day was spent in the glorious Kirstenbosch botanical gardens. I arrived here shortly after opening at 8am and left around 4.30pm for the airport and my flight home. I was only through the gates and had walked to the top of Camphor Avenue, looking out for Spotted Eagle Owl, when I heard the distinctive, ‘Willie, quickly run around the bush and squeeze me’ liquid chortle of a Sombre Bulbul. I walked along the path towards Nursery Ravine and searched the sky. A Black Eagle circled above, before vanishing into a cloud. Two lifers in the first half hour. Brilliant. The area close to the Fynbos gardens held most of the Cape Sugarbird seen today and many southern race Olive Thrush. I walked through the woodland along Nursery Stream hoping to see Forest Canary, but failed.
The annual's garden close to the main stage held many Cape and Yellow Canaries and the main pond had two Egyptian Geese that I’m sure you could pet if you felt the need to. It was 12 o’clock and I deserved a coffee. I wandered back up Camphor Avenue; there must be an owl somewhere. I asked one of the groundsmen and he took me to where a Spotted Eagle Owl had been seen yesterday at the dell. But it wasn’t there. I sat on a bench and listened to the sounds of the garden. More Sombre Bulbuls, wailing Cape Francolins were being chased by kids on a school outing. I looked at the Mandela’s Gold plants whose elegant flowers had to be kept undercover to stop the squirrels eating their precious petals. A tranquil place to be.
I searched through the useful plants garden and found cures for all manner of ailments, but no new birds! Then at the Fragrance garden a flock of Swee Waxbills swarmed around. This would prove to be the last new bird of the trip. Number 388. I walked towards the exit still hoping for Spotted Eagle Owl, Forest Canary and African Goshawk. But I guess these will just have to wait.
BIRDS
Little Grebe
Black-necked Grebe
Great crested Grebe
African Penguin
Cape Gannet
White-breasted Cormorant
Bank Cormorant
Cape Cormorant
African Darter
Reed (long-tailed) Cormorant
Crowned Cormorant
Hamerkop
Goliath Heron
Purple Heron
Grey Heron
Black-headed Heron
Yellow-billed Heron
Great White Egret
Little Egret
Cattle Egret
Dimorphic Egret
Black Heron (Egret)
Squacco Heron
Green-backed Heron
Black-crowned Night Heron
Little Bittern
Greater Flamingo
Lesser Flamingo
Afican Spoonbill
African Sacred Ibis
Glossy Ibis
Hadeda Ibis
Great White Pelican
Marabou Stork
Saddle-billed Stork
African Openbill
Woolly-necked Stork
Abdim's Stork
White Stork
Fulvous Duck
White-faced Duck
White-backed Duck
Maccoa Duck
African Pygmy Goose
Egyptian Goose
South African Shelduck
Spur-winged Goose
Comb (knob-billed) Duck
African Black Duck
Yellow-billed Duck
Cape Shoveller
Cape Teal
Red-billed Teal
Black-shouldered Kite
Black Kite
Yellow-billed Kite
African Fish Eagle
Hooded Vulture
Lappet-faced Vulture
White-backed Vulture
Black-chested Snake Eagle
Brown Snake Eagle
Bateleur
African Marsh-Harrier
Montagu's Harrier
Black Harrier
African Harrier Hawk (Gymnogene)
Gabar Goshawk
Dark Chanting Goshawk
Pale Chanting Goshawk
Ovambo Sparrowhawk
Common Buzzard
Steppe Buzzard
Augur Buzzard
Jackal Buzzard
Steppe Eagle
Tawny Eagle
Verreaux's (Black) Eagle
Wahlberg's Eagle
Martial Eagle
Rock Kestrel
African Pygmy Falcon
Dickinson's Kestrel
Peregrine Falcon
Helmeted Guineafowl
Red-billed Spurfowl (Francolin)
Swainson's Spurfowl (Francolin)
Cape Spurfowl (Francolin)
African Rail
Black Crake
African Purple Swamphen (Purple Gallinule)
Allen's (Lesser) Gallinule
Common Moorhen
Red-knobbed (Crested) Coot
Grey-crowned Crane
Wattle Crane
Blue Crane
Kori Bustard
Southern Black Korhaan
Northern Black Korhaan
Black-bellied Bustard
Ruppell's Korhaan
African Black Oystercatcher
African Jacana
Lesser Jacana
Eurasian Thick-knee (Stone Curlew)
Water Thick-knee (Dikkop)
Spotted Thick-knee (Dikkop)
Black-winged Pratincole
Kittlitz's Plover
White-fronted Plover
Common Ringed Plover
Three-banded Plover
Chestnut-banded Plover
Grey (black-bellied) Plover
Long-toed Lapwing (Plover)
Blacksmith Lapwing (Plover)
White-Headed (white-crowned) Lapwing (Plover)
African Wattled Lapwing (Plover)
Crowned Lapwing (Plover)
Black-winged Stilt
Pied Avocet
Bar-tailed Godwit
Whimbrel
Common Redshank
Marsh Sandpiper
Common Greenshank
Ruff
Wood Sandpiper
Common Sandpiper
Red Knot
Curlew Sandpiper
Little Stint
Sanderling
Red-necked (northern) Phalarope
Ruddy Turnstone
Cape Gull
Kelp Gull
Lesser black-backed Gull
Grey-headed Gull
Hartlaub's Gull
Sooty (Hemprich's) Gull
Caspian Tern
Swift (greater-crested) Tern
Sandwich Tern
Common Tern
Little Tern
Damara Tern
Whiskered Tern
White-winged Tern
Double-banded Sandgrouse
Rock dove (feral pigeon)
Speckled Pigeon
Red-eyed Dove
African Mourning Dove
Cape Turtle (ring-necked) Dove
Laughing (palm) Dove
Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove
Namaqua Dove
Meyer's (brown) Parrot
Fischer's Lovebird
Yellow-collared Lovebird
Rosy-faced Lovebird
Purple-crested Turaco (Lourie)
Schalow's Lourie
Grey go-away-bird (Lourie)
Black Coucal
Senegal Coucal
Blue-headed Coucal
Verreaux's (Giant) Eagle-Owl
African Scops-Owl
Rufous-Cheeked Nightjar
Square-tailed (Mozambique) Nightjar
African Palm Swift
Little Swift
Alpine Swift
African (Black) Swift
Speckled Mousebird
White-backed Mousebird
Red-faced Mousebird
African Hoopoe
Green (Red-billed) Wood-Hoopoe
Black-billed Wood-Hoopoe
Common Scimitarbill
Malachite Kingfisher
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Woodland Kingfisher
Mangrove Kingfisher
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Striped Kingfisher
Giant Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher
Lilac-breasted Roller
Southern Carmine Bee-eater
Little Bee-eater
Blue-breasted Bee-eater
Bohm's Bee-eater
White Fronted Bee-eater
Blue-checked Bee-eater
European Bee-eater
Common Ostrich
Secretarybird
Southern Ground-Hornbill
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill
Southern Red-billed Hornbill
Crowned Hornbill
African Grey Hornbill
Trumpeter Hornbill
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird
Acacia Pied Barbet
Black-collarfed Barbet
Lesser Honeyguide
Grey Woodpecker
Green-backed (little-spotted) Woodpecker
Cardinal Woodpecker
Rufous-napped Lark
Large-billed Lark
Red-capped Lark
Grey-backed Sparrowlark
Sand Martin (Bank Swallow)
Brown-throated (plain) Martin
Banded Martin
Rock Martin
Barn (European) Swallow
Wire-tailed Swallow
Greater Striped Swallow
Common House Martin
African Pied Wagtail
Cape Wagtail
Yellow Wagtail
Cape (orange-throated) Longclaw
African (Grassveld) Pipit
Black Cuckooshrike
Fork-tailed Drongo
(Eastern) Black-headed Oriole
Cape (Black) Crow
House Crow
Pied Crow
White-necked Raven
Cape Penduline-Tit
Ashy Tit
Grey Tit
Hartlaub's Babbler
Northern Pied Babbler
Dark-capped Dark-eyed Bulbul
African Red-eyed Bulbul
Cape Bulbul
Little Greenbul
Sombre Greenbul
Groundscraper Thrush
Olive Thrush
Karoo Thrush
White-browed (Heuglin's) Robin-Chat
Cape Robin-Chat
Collared Palm-Thrush
White-browed Scrub-Robin
Karoo Scrub-Robin
Common Stonechat
Familiar Chat
Sickle-Winged Chat
Tractrac Chat
Mountain Wheatear (Chat)
Northern (European) Wheatear
Isabelline Wheatear
Capped Wheatear
Mocking Cliff-Chat
Cape Grassbird
Little Rush Warbler (African Sedge Warbler)
African Reed-Warbler (African Marsh-Warbler)
Icterine Warbler
Willow Warbler
Common Chiffchaff
Chestnut-Vented Tit-Babbler
Neddicky (Piping Cisticola)
Rattling Cisticola
Tinkling (Grey) Cisticola
Grey-backed Cisticola
Levaillant's (Tinkling) Cisticola
Cloud Cisticola
Bar-throated Apalis
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Black-chested Prinia
Karoo (spotted) Prinia
Yellow-bellied Eremomela
Long-billed Crombec
Grey-backed Camaroptera
Marico Flycatcher
White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher
Fiscal Flycatcher
Spotted Flycatcher
African Dusky Flycatcher
African Paradise-flycatcher
Cape Batis
Chinspot Batis
Red-backed Shrike
Sothern Grey Shrike
Lesser Grey Shrike
Common Fiscal
Magpie (long-tailed) Shrike
Black-backed Puffback
Tropical Boubou
Swamp Boubou
Southern Boubou
Brubru
Crimson-breasted Shrike
Bokmakierie
Grey-headed Bush-shrike
White Helmet-shrike
Retz's (red-billed) Helmet-shrike
Cape (red-shouldered) Glossy Starling
Burchell's Starling
Meve's Starling
Long-tailed Starling
Ruppell's Starling
Superb Starling
Hildebrandt's Starling
African Pied Starling
Violet-backed (plum-coloured, Amethyst) Starling
Red-winged Starling
Pale-Winged Starling
Wattled Starling
Common (European) Starling
Yellow-billed Oxpecker
Red-billed Oxpecker
Cape Sugarbird
Orange-breasted Sunbird
Malachite Sunbird
Amethyst (Black) Sunbird
Scarlet-Chested Sunbird
Olive Sunbird
Collared Sunbird
Variable (Yellow-bellied) Sunbird
White-bellied Sunbird
Dusky Sunbird
Southern Double-Collared Sunbird
Cape White-eye
Orange River White-eye
African Yellow White-eye
House Sparrow
Kenya Rufous Sparrow
Northern Grey-headed Sparrow
Southern Grey-headed Sparrow
Cape Sparrow
Red-headed Finch
Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver
Rufous-tailed Weaver
Scaly-feathered Finch
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver
Grey-Capped Social-Weaver
Sociable Weaver
Golden weaver (Holub's Golden Weaver)
Cape Weaver
Spectacled Weaver
Village (spotted-backed) Weaver
Southern (Vitelline/African) Masked Weaver
Baglafecht Weaver
Dark-backed (forest) Weaver
Thick-billed (Grosbeak) Weaver
Red-billed Quelea
Southern Red Bishop
Black-winged (fire-crowned) Bishop
Yellow Bishop (Cape/Yellow-rumped Widow)
Yellow-Mantled (Yellow-backed) Widowbird
Fan-tailed (Red-shouldered) Widowbird
White-winged Widowbird
Green-winged Pytilia (Melba Finch)
Red-billed Firefinch
African (Blue-billed) Firefinch
Bronze Mannikin
Blue Waxbill (Sothern Cordonbleu)
Violet-eared Waxbill (Common Grenadier)
Swee Waxbill (Black-faced Swee)
Black-faced Waxbill
Common Waxbill
Village Indigobird (Steel-blue Widowfinch)
Pin-tailed Whydah
Shaft-tailed Whydah
Eastern Paradise-Whydah
Yellow-fronted Canary
Yellow Canary
Brimstone (Bully) Canary
Black-throated Canary
Cape Canary
Cape Siskin
Streaky Seed-eater
White-throated Canary
Cape Bunting
Golden-breasted Bunting
ENDEMIC / NEAR ENDEMIC 90
LIFE BIRDS 357
TRIP TOTAL 388
MAMMALS
Warthog
Common Hippopotamus
Giraffe, Masai race
Steenbok
Kirk's Dik-Dik
Common Duiker
Damara Dik-Dik
Thomson's Gazelle
Grant's Gazelle
Springbok
Common Waterbuck
Sable, Roosevelt race
Oryx, Gemsbok race
Hartebeest
Topi, jimela race
Wildebeest
Impala
Kudu, Greater
Common Eland
African Buffalo
Black Rhinoceros
Common Zebra
Burchell's Zebra
African Elephant
Rock Hyrax
Cape Fur Seal
Slender Mongoose
Banded Mongoose
Spotted Hyena
African Wildcat
Black-footed Cat
Serval
Cheetah
Lion
Black-backed Jackal
Blue Monkey
Vervet Monkey
Savanna Baboon
Red Colobus Monkey
Cape Ground Squirrel
Southern African Tree Squirrel
Four-striped Desert Mouse
Chobe Puku
Meerkat
TOTAL: 44