Introduction
In 2006, my partner Rachel Walls and I spent eight months travelling around South America. During our trip we worked for 11 weeks as volunteers at Reserva Ecologica de Guapi Assu (REGUA) - a nature reserve in the Atlantic Forest in Rio de Janeiro state, south-east Brazil. The reserve also has it’s own lodge - Guapi Assu Bird Lodge - dedicated to birders. Our work was very varied and included: photography, producing promotional literature, patrolling the reserve with the rangers, guiding guests and building a new website. Although some of this work was office based, I still had the opportunity to bird the trails regularly. This report gives information regarding the Atlantic Forest endemics and other specialities present at REGUA, and summarises my sightings and experience of the reserve and other sites nearby that I visited.
This was my first time to South America (although I had been to Central America before), and so most of the birds here were new to me. The majority of my birding was done without a guide, and I had to learn the birds from scratch, so there were many birds that went unidentified. It's worth noting that we were backpacking and not on a dedicated birding trip, and this restricted my birding opportunities. The main problem this gave me was that I was unable to take sound equipment or a scope with me. The use of recordings would have made finding birds much easier and no doubt cost me many species, and a scope would have been very useful at times, especially at the wetlands and on some of the excursions.
Burnished-buff Tanager | Scaled Antbird | Shrike-like Cotinga |
Birds
This list includes all the species that I recorded at REGUA. The taxonomy and nomenclature follows Clements, James F, Birds of the World: A Checklist, 5th edition (updated 2005).
(AF) Endemic to the Atlantic Forest
(B) Endemic to Brazil
Solitary Tinamou Tinamus solitarius (B) 1 heard and seen poorly running along the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Brown Tinamou Crypturellus obsoletus 1 heard and another flushed on the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July.
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Seen regularly at the lodge wetland, although the highest count was only 2+ there on 29 May.
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Up to 2 seen regularly at the lodge wetland.
Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus Seen regularly at the lodge wetland. The highest count was 5 there on 2 June.
Cocoi (White-necked) Heron Ardea cocoi 1 at the lodge wetland on 7 July.
Great Egret Ardea alba Seen regularly at the lodge wetland. Also 1 along the dirt road to Casa Pesquisa on 22 May.
Snowy Egret Egretta thula 1 at the lodge wetland on 3 June, 7 July and 24 July.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Abundant. Birds roost every evening in trees at the lodge wetland, from about an hour before sunset and feed in nearby fields during the day. The highest count at the roost was 690 on 7 June.
Striated Heron Butorides striata 1 at the lodge wetland on 18 May.
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 1 ad. and 1 imm. at the lodge wetland on 29 May.
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum 1 at the lodge wetland on 3 June, 7 July and 25 July.
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata 11 at the lodge wetland on 7 July was my first sighting, after which birds were present throughout the rest of our stay. 16 at the lodge wetland on 24 July was my highest count.
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata 1 at the lodge wetland on 29 May and 1 male at the lodge wetland on 7 and 9 July.
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis Common at the lodge wetland.
Masked Duck Nomonyx dominica A pair at the lodge wetland on 7 July, 1 male and 2 females at the lodge wetland on 9 July, 2 females and 1 female/imm. at the lodge wetland on 24 July.
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Abundant.
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common.
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis 1 at the lodge wetland on 30 June.
Mantled Hawk Leucopternis polionotus (AF) 1 seen low over the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May.
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Seen along the dirt road to Casa Pesquisa.
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Abundant, especially around the lodge wetland.
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus 1+ seen displaying over the Lost Trail (by post 1900) on 14 June.
Southern Caracara Caracara plancus Abundant. Regular around the lodge wetland and often seen on farmland bordering the reserve, following tractors with Yellow-headed Caracara.
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Abundant.
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis 1 over the lodge wetland on 12 July, 2 at the lodge wetland on 24 July and 1 there on 25 July.
Spot-winged Wood-Quail Odontophorus capueira (AF) 1 heard only on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Limpkin Aramus guarauna 1 at the lodge wetland on 24 July.
Ash-throated Crake Porzana albicollis 1 seen at very close range at the lodge wetland, mid morning on 1 July, climbing up through a bush beside the path at the start of the main dam.
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica Seen regularly in small numbers at the lodge wetland.
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Common at the lodge wetland.
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Common at the lodge wetland.
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Common at the lodge wetland and farmland bordering the reserve.
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro Seen frequently.
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea 1 heard only on the Elfin Forest Trail, date not recorded.
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Abundant around the lodge wetland and lodge garden.
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi 1 seen well on the Nursery Trail on 30 June. Occasionaly seen poorly elsewhere on the reserve.
Blue-winged Macaw Primolius maracana 2 roosting in bamboo at the lodge wetland in the evening on 25 July.
Maroon-bellied Parakeet Pyrrhura frontalis (AF) Seen frequently on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal. Also 2 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica (AF) Many at the open area near the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May, several at a fruiting fig tree on the Lost Trail (by post 1950 on the west side of trail) on 11 July and several at the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 14 July.
Orange-winged Parrot Amazona amazonica 2 roosting in bamboo at the lodge wetland on 25 July.
Blue-bellied Parrot Triclaria malachitacea (AF) 1 heard only by post 1550 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July, and 1 heard only near the top of the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July. I was unlucky not to see the birds as others with me did.
Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus 1 at the edge of the lodge wetland (along the trail leading to the wetland, just past the volunteer houses) on 14 June. Also, a probable seen at the lodge wetland a few days earlier.
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Several seen poorly on the Sao Josa Trail and the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal. 1 seen well on the Nursery Trail on 24 July.
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Abundant, especially around the lodge wetland.
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Small groups were common around the lodge wetland, lodge garden and nearby farmland.
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia 1 seen well on the Nursery Trail on 24 July.
Barn Owl Tyto alba 1 roosting in the barn along the dirt road to Casa Pesquisa (opposite the turning to the footbridge over the Guapi Assu river).
Tawny-browed Owl Pulsatrix koeniswaldiana (AF) 2 first heard by the REGUA office on 9 June, were subsequently seen and heard every few days or so throughout the rest of our stay. The tall trees in the lodge garden (behind the pool) were the best spot for good views (the lodge has a spotlight that guests may use), but they could also be heard in the tall trees around the REGUA office, where they proved impossible to see.
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia 2 pairs seen frequently along the dirt road to Casa Pesquisa.
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris The most common swift. Often seen over the reserve, especially at the lodge wetland.
Biscutate Swift Streptoprocne biscutata 1+ with White-collared Swifts over the lodge wetland on 12 July.
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris Several over the Lost Trail on 25 May. Also seen at Casa Pesquisa and over the meadow at post 1150 along the Waterfall Trail, but the dates of these sightings were not recorded.
Saw-billed Hermit Ramphodon naevius (AF/B) Seen on most visits to Casa Pesquisa (coming to the feeders), and also 1 on the Waterfal Trail (by the research hut) on 22 May.
Rufous-breasted (Hairy) Hermit Glaucis hirsuta 1+ in the lodge garden on 15 June.
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis rubber 1 visiting the red flowers by post 0 of the Nursery Trail (left of the gate to the REGUA office) on 30 July.
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus Several in the lodge garden and around the feeders at Casa Pesquisa.
Black Jacobin Florisuga fuscus (AF) 1 imm. visiting flowers behind the pool in the lodge garden on 15 June.
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis (AF) Several seen frequently around hummingbird feeders at Casa Pesquisa.
Glittering-throated Emerald Polyerata fimbriata Common around the lodge garden.
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus A pair seen well on the Sao Josa Trail on 20 May.
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura The most frequently seen trogon and encountered frequently around the reserve, often in pairs. The Lost Trail and the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal were the most reliable areas.
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus Seen regularly at the lodge wetland, and along the Guapi Assu River by the footbridge to Guapi Assu. Also a pair at the small lake on route to the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona 1 at the lodge wetland on 24 July.
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle Americana 1+ at the lodge wetland 29 May and 1 there on 24 July.
Rufous-capped Motmot Baryphthengus ruficapillus (AF) Silent throughout most of our stay, they starting calling in July. 1 heard only on the Waterfall Trail on 25 July, and 1 heard only on the Elfin Forest Trail but date not recorded.
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda Seen frequently in the lodge garden (in the bare branches behind the pool), along the lodge drive and on the Nursery Trail. Also 1 pair on the Lost Trail on 6 June and 1+ on the Lost Trail on 14 June.
Crescent-chested Puffbird Malacoptila striata (B) 1 on the Lost Trail on 14 June was surprisingly my only record. They are usually much easier to see at REGUA and often occur in the lodge garden.
Spot-billed Toucanet Selenidera maculirostris Seen and heard frequenly around the reserve. The Lost, Papagaio, Sao Josa and Waterfall Trails were the most reliable areas.
Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus 1 on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May. Also seen occasionally on the Nursery Trail by Rachel but dates not recorded.
White-barred Piculet Picumnus cirratus Frequently seen in a variety of habitats ranging from forest to small bushes around the lodge wetland.
White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus Seen often around the lodge wetland and lodge garden. The highest count was 4 in the lodge garden on 29 July.
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes flavifrons 1 visiting a fruiting fig tree on the Lost Trail (on the west side of the trail by post 1950) on 11 July.
Yellow-eared Woodpecker Veniliornis maculifrons (AF/B) 1 on the Lost Trail on 19 June, 1 on the Papagaio Trail on the 17 July and 1 on the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July.
Yellow-throated Woodpecker Piculus flavigula 1-2 along the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May, 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 25 July and 2 on the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July.
Yellow-browed Woodpecker Piculus aurulentus (AF) 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July.
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail (by post 1500) on 18 July. This was a new bird for the reserve.
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Seen regularly around the lodge wetland.
Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus flavescens 1 on an unmarked trail on Schincariol land (adjacent to and managed by REGUA) on 14 June, 1 on the Lost Trail on 11 July, 1 on the Light Blue Trail by the lodge on 24 July and 2 on the Waterfall Trail on 25 July.
Tail-banded Hornero Furnarius figulus Seen frequently around the lodge wetland.
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Abundant around the lodge wetland and fields.
Chicli Spinetail Synallaxis spixi 1 on the Light Blue Trail by the lodge on 24 July.
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea Common at the lodge wetland.
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons 1 at the lodge wetland on 20 May. Their huge nests were much in evidence and so I suspect they are easier to see when nesting.
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July was surprisingly my only record.
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans 1 on the Lost Trail on 14 June and 1 on the Nursery Trail on 24 July.
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July and 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July.
Black-capped Foliage-gleaner Philydor atricapillus (AF) 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 8 June and 1 on the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July.
White-collared Foliage-gleaner Anabazenops fuscus (B) 2 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July and 1 there on 25 July.
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus (AF) 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 9 June, 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Tawny-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus mexicanus 1 on the Lost Trail (by the junction with the Elfin Forest Trail) on 25 July.
Thrush-like (Plain-winged) Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina (AF) 2+ on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May, 1 on the Lost Trail on 14 June, 1 on the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July.
Lesser Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus fuscus (AF) 1 on the Purple Trail on 30 May.
Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 22 May, 1 on the Lost Trail on 25 July.
Black-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus falcularius 1 seen well but briefly on the Sao Josa Trail at high altitude in a mixed species flock on 20 May.
Spot-backed Antshrike Hypoedaleus guttatus (AF) 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Tufted Antshrike Mackenziaena severa 1 male on the Light Blue Trail by the lodge on 24 July.
Chestnut-backed Antshrike Thamnophilus palliates Common, especially on the Nursery Trail, at the lodge wetland and around the volunteer houses. 1 also seen at the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 14 July.
Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus ambiguus (B) A pair on the Nursery Trail on 24 July.
Spot-breasted Antvireo Dysithamnus stictothorax (AF) 1 female on the Lost Trail on 11 July and 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis 1 on Schincariol land (adjacent to and managed by REGUA) on 14 June and 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Star-throated Antwren Myrmotherula gularis (AF/B) 2 on an unmarked trail (just off the Lost Trail) on 11 July and 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July.
White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaries Seen on the Elfin Forest, Sao Josa and Waterfall Trails. Note that there is some debate over whether the White-flanked Antwrens at REGUA are in fact a different species - Rio de Janeiro Antwren (Myrmotherula fluminensis). After subsequently seeing White-flanked Antwrens at other sites, the birds at REGUA did appear paler, however, they could equally be a subspecies. I believe at this time that most observers regard these birds as a variant of White-flanked Antwren.
Unicolored Antwren Myrmotherula unicolor (B) Seen on the Lost, Sao Josa and Waterfall Trails.
Ferruginous Antbird Drymophila ferruginea (AF/B) 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July and 3 there on 25 July.
Scaled Antbird Drymophila squamata (AF/B) 2 on the Purple Trail on 30 May, 2 females on the Lost Trail on 11 July, 1 female on the Lost Trail on 14 July, a pair on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera (AF) 1 male on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July and a pair on the Papagaio Trail on the 17 July.
White-bibbed Antbird Myrmeciza loricata (B) 1-2 on the Lost Trail on 14 July and a pair near the top of the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July.
Rufous-capped Antthrush Formicarius colma Seen on the Waterfall Trail, date not recorded.
Short-tailed Antthrush Chamaeza campanisona 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July.
Black-cheeked Gnateater Conopophaga melanops (AF/B) 1 male on Sao Josa Trail on 21 May, a pair on the Waterfall Trail (post 2400) on 22 May, 1 male on the Lost Trail on 25 May, 1 male on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July, 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Slaty Bristlefront Merulaxis ater (B) 1 female seen well and 1 male seen poorly on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July, 1 heard on the Waterfall Trail on 25 July.
Sharpbill Oxyruncus cristatus 1 heard only on the Elfin Forest Trail and 1 seen well in Nicholas and Raquel's garden (near Casa Pesquisa) on 18 July. 1 heard and another seen on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Shrike-like Cotinga Laniisoma elegans 1 seen poorly singing on the Sao Josa Trail on 20 May, 1 male seen and photographed at close range on the Waterfall Trail (by the trail signposted to Poco Verde) on 9 June, and 1 male on the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July.
Bare-throated Bellbird Procnias nudicollis (AF) Silent throughout most of our time at REGUA, birds started calling in July. A few heard at Casa Pesquisa and 2 seen on the Lost Trail on 14 July, 1 male seen on the Waterfall Trail on 25 July.
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Fairly common around the reserve and regular in the lodge garden and at the lodge wetland. The Nursery Trail was the best area where lekking birds (mainly males) were seen on most visits (by post 750).
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata (AF) Seen frequently (more often males) on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal, and the Lost, Purple, Sao Josa and Waterfall Trails. 2 males seen displaying on the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July were particularly noteworthy.
Pin-tailed Manakin Ilicura militaris (AF/B) 1 male on the Waterfall Trail on 22 May, 1+ on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July. Other times heard on the Waterfall Trail and on unmarked trails.
Greenish Schiffornis Schiffornis virescens 1 near the top of the Sao Josa Trail on 28 July.
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Seen at the lodge wetland.
Sooty Tyrannulet Serpophaga nigricans 1 at the lodge wetland on 3 June and 2 there on 24 July.
Gray-hooded Flycatcher Mionectes rufiventris (AF) Several poorly seen birds seen around the reserve. 1 seen well on the Waterfall Trail on 25 July.
Oustalet's Tyrannulet Phylloscartes oustaleti (B) 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Planalto Tyrannulet Phyllomyias fasciatus 2 in the overgrown garden at Casa Anibal on 14 July.
Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus orbitatus (AF/B) 1 on the Purple Trail on 6 June and 1 on the Lost Trail on 11 July.
Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum poliocephalum (AF/B) Seen frequently at the lodge wetland, around the volunteer houses and on the Nursery Trail. Also 1 in the lodge garden on 15 June.
Southern Antpipit Corythopis delalandi 1 on the Purple Trail on 30 May, and 1 seen very well on the Waterfall Trail on 8 June.
White-throated Spadebill Platyrinchus mystaceus 1 just off the Lost Trail on 30 May, 1 along the Sao Josa Trail on 4 June and 1 on an unmarked trail on Schincariol land (adjacent to and managed by REGUA) on 14 June.
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus 2 at the lodge wetland on 3 June.
Whiskered (Sulphur-rumped/Yellow-rumped) Flycatcher Myiobius barbatus (B) 1 on the Waterfall Trail in a species mixed flock on 22 May, and 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea 1 by the barn along the dirt road to Casa Pesquisa (opposite the turning to the footbridge over the Guapi Assu River) on 22 May, and 1 there on 14 July.
Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July, and 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus 1 in the open area at the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 26 May.
White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velata Seen frequently along the dirt road to Casa Pesquisa. The highest count was 3 there on 22 May.
Blue-billed Black-Tyrant Knipolegus cyanirostris 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail (by post 1500) on 18 July.
White-headed Marsh-Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala Common at the lodge wetland.
Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys 1 at the lodge wetland on 7, 19, 30 June and 24 July.
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus 1 in the open area at the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May, 1+ there on 26 May, 1 there on 14 July, 2 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July and 1+ on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July.
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus Seen occasionally at the lodge wetland.
Gray-hooded Attila Attila rufus (AF/B) 1 on the Sao Josa Trail on 21 May, 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 22 May and 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 18 July.
Grayish Mourner Rhytipterna simplex 2 on the Elfin Forest Trail (by post 1600) on 25 July.
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Abundant in open areas, especially at the lodge wetland.
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua 1 on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 6 June and 1+ on the Light Blue Trail near the lodge on 24 July. I almost certainly overlooked this species.
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Seen frequently at the lodge wetland and in the lodge garden.
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Seen frequently at the lodge wetland.
Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus 1+ on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus A pair on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana 1 seen in the open area at the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May.
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Seen frequently.
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Seen frequently.
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Seen frequently.
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Seen frequently, especialy around the lodge wetland.
Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens Seen in grassy fields around the lodge wetland.
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis 2 on the Sao Josa Trail on 20 May and 2 on the Light Blue Trail by the lodge on 24 July.
Long-billed Wren Thryothorus longirostris (B) Seen occasionally (but often poorly) on the Light Blue Trail by the lodge. The best spot was between where the trail enters the trees and where it meets the small stream on the left - around post 150. Look in the bushes on the left and also in the palms. The best views were 1 on the Light Blue Trail on 7 July and 2 at the open area at the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 14 July.
House Wren Troglodytes aedon A pair, probably breeding, seen regularly in a disused building behind the volunteer houses, and 1 at the lodge wetland on 24 July.
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus Seen regularly at the lodge wetland and in the lodge garden.
Yellow-legged Thrush Platycichla flavipes 2 on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May, 1 male on the Purple Trail on 3 May, 1 female on the Lost Trail on 11 July, 1 male on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July, 2 males on the Lost Trail on 14 July and 1 male on the Lost Trail on 18 July.
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Seen frequently, especially at the fruit feeders in the lodge garden and at Casa Pesquisa. Other sightings were 2 on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May and 1 on the Nursery Trail on 30 June.
Pale-breasted (bellied) Thrush Turdus leucomelas 1 in the lodge garden on 15 June, 1 in the lodge garden on 4 July and 2 at the lodge wetland on 7 July.
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus 3 in the lodge garden on 4 July.
White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis 1 on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May and 1 on the Purple Trail on 6 June.
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild 2 at the lodge wetland on 3, 7 and 30 June.
Red-eyed (Chivi) Vireo Vireo olivaceus Seen regularly around the reserve.
Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July.
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis 1 on the Lost Trail on 6 June.
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi Seen infrequently around the reserve.
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus 1 on the Lost Trail on 14 June and 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July.
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola Seen regularly around the feeders in the lodge garden and at Casa Pesquisa.
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 22 May and 1 at the lodge wetland on 2 June. Also seen on a number of other occasions at the lodge wetland but dates not recorded.
Rufous-headed Tanager Hemithraupis ruficapilla (AF/B) 1 on the Sao Josa Trail on 20 May, 1 on the Sao Josa Trail on 21 May, 1+ on the Waterfall Trail on 22 May, 1 just off the Lost Trail on 30 May, 1+ males on the Waterfall Trail on 19 June, 1+ males on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July, 1 male on the Eflin Forest Trail on 18 July and 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 25 July.
Yellow-backed Tanager Hemithraupis flavicollis Seen frequently around the reserve.
Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus Seen frequently around the reserve.
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus (AF) Seen frequently around the reserve.
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops Frequently seen around the reserve, often in small groups. They were the dominant species present at the ant swarms we encountered. Females/imms. seemed more common than males.
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica 1 male on the Waterfall Trail on 22 May. Others seen occasionally around the reserve but date of sightings not recorded.
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius (AF/B) Frequently seen around the reserve, often in small groups of up to 4 birds (males were more common). The most reliable sites were the lodge garden, lodge wetland and the open area at the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal.
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca Seen regularly in the lodge garden and at Casa Pesquisa. Also 3 at Casa Anibal on 14 July.
Azure-shouldered Tanager Thraupis cyanoptera (AF/B) 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Golden-chevroned Tanager Thraupis ornata (AF/B) Several coming to bananas at Casa Pesquisa on 7 June, and 1 on the Lost Trail on 11 July.
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum 1+ in the lodge garden on 4 July was my only record.
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota 1 on the Waterfall Trail between posts 0 and 50 on 9 June.
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea Common at the feeders in the lodge garden and at Casa Pesquisa. Also 1 male on the Lost Trail on 11 July.
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster 1 male on the Purple Trail on 30 May.
Chestnut-bellied Euphonia Euphonia pectoralis (AF) Seen regularly around the reserve. The Lost and Waterfall Trails were the best areas.
Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea A few seen on the Purple Trail on 30 May, 1 coming to the fruit feeders in the lodge garden on 4 July.
Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana 2 seen on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May and a few coming to bananas at Casa Pesquisa on 7 and 8 June.
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon (AF) Seen frequently around the reserve. They also often visited bananas hung up at Casa Pesquisa.
Red-necked Tanager Tangara cyanocephala (AF) 1+ on the Waterfall Trail on 9 June, several on the Waterfall Trail on 19 June, 2+ on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July, 4 at Casa Pesquisa on 14 July, 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 25 July, 2 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Brassy-breasted Tanager Tangara desmaresti (B) 1 on the Waterfall Trail (by post 1050) on 13 July and 1 at the top of the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 14 July.
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana 2 in the lodge garden on 27 May, 1 in the lodge garden on 15 June, 2+ in the lodge garden on 4 July. Also seen on the Nursery Trail but date not recorded.
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana Seen frequently around the reserve and often coming to feeders.
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Several on the Nursery Trail on 30 June. Note that many grassquits were seen frequently around the lodge wetland and nearby farmland, and were presumably this species (note that I did neglect the grassquits).
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis 1 male along the road by Guapi Assu village, just outside the reserve.
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens 1 male along the dirt road to Casa Pesquisa on 14 July. Also seen on other occasions but dates not recored (note that I did neglect the seedeaters).
White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera 1 male at the lodge wetland on 3 June.
Blackish-blue Seedeater Amaurospiza moesta Fairly common at higher altitudes on the Eflin Forest Trail on 18 July.
Uniform Finch Haplospiza unicolor 2 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Abundant around the lodge wetland and in open areas.
Red-cowled Cardinal Paroaria dominicana 2 on a farm driveway along the road just outside the entrance to the reserve on 8 June.
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis 2 along the dirt road just outside the entrace to the reserve on 8 June.
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus Seen in the lodge garden.
Black-throated Grosbeak Saltator fuliginosus (AF) A pair on the Sao Josa Trail on 20 May, 1 on Sao Josa Trail on 21 May, 1 on Lost Trail 25 May, 1 on Waterfall Trail on 19 June, 1 on the Waterfall Trail on 13 July, 2 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July and 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 18 July.
Yellow-green Grosbeak Caryothraustes canadensis Several just before the house on the 4x4 Track to Casa Anibal on 25 May.
Chestnut-capped Blackbird Chrysomus ruficapillus Many seen at the far end of the lodge wetland, associating with Shiny Cowbirds.
White-browed Blackbird Sturnella superciliaris 3 males and a few females in fields along road leading to Casa Pesquisa (near the junction of the Mitumbo Road) on 13 July.
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Many seen at the far end of the lodge wetland, associating with Chestnut-capped Blackbirds.
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Seen frequently around the reserve, especially at the lodge wetland, Nursery Trail and in the lodge garden.
House Sparrow Passer domesticus A pair along the dirt road just outside the entrance to the reserve on 8 June was my only record.
Mammals
Large mammals are generally scarce in the Atlantic Forest due to the extensive hunting that continues there. At REGUA rangers patrol the reserve daily to deter hunters, and large mammals are starting to make a comeback. Notably, REGUA holds a population of the rare Woolly Spider Monkey (Brachyteles arachnoides) which are being seen more regularly. These are the mammals we recorded at REGUA.
Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth Bradypus variegatus Seen regularly on the Waterfall Trail. Also 1 on the Papagaio Trail on 17 July, and 1 on the Elfin Forest Trail on 25 July.
Nine-banded Long-nosed Armadillo Dasypus novemcinctus 1 by the volunteer houses on the edge of the lodge wetland on 9 July.
Brown Howler Monkey Alouatta fusca Heard only on the Elfin Forest Trail, date not recorded.
Brown Capuchin Monkey Cebus apella 2+ on the Waterfall Trail (by post 2300) on 19 June, and 2+ on the Elfin Forest Trail (by post 1500) on 18 July.
Crab-eating Fox Cerdocyon thous 1 on farmland just outside of the reserve, date not recorded.
South American Coati Nasua nasua 2+ on the Lost Trail (by post 1350) on 14 June.
Greater Grison Galictis vittata 1 on the Nursery Trail in the replanted area (before post 650) on 30 June.
Capybara Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris Seen at the lodge wetland, date not recorded.
Guianan Squirrel Sciurus aestuans 2 on the Sao Josa Trail on 20 May.
Azara’s Agouti Dasyprocta azarae 1 on the Nursery Trail (by post 1250) on 30 June.
Other Sites Visited
There are several excursions that run from the lodge to other nearby birding sites. By joining a few of these and also visiting some other areas independently, I managed to see a further 58 species. Many more species are possible at other sites closeby, however, as this was not a dedicated birding trip I didn't manage to visit many of these.
Macao de Cima - 15 July
A high altitude site at around 1400 m in the Serra dos Argaos mountains near the city of Nova Friburgo. The reserve is privately owned by orchid expert David Miller, and access has been negotiated for birders staying at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge. This is one of the easiest sites to access the high altitude birds. Target species here include: Scale-throated Hermit, Plovercrest, White-throated Hummingbird, Brazilian Ruby, Pallid Spinetail, Black-billed Scythebill, Rufous Gnateater, Black-and-gold Cotinga and Hooded Berryeater.
I didn’t have a hire car so I joined one of the full day excursions from the lodge. We left at 05:00 to arrive at the prime time for bird activity (it’s a 1.5 hour drive from REGUA). It cost us US$80 to hire the driver and van (which can carry a maximum of 11 guests), and a further US$80 to hire the lodge bird guide. However, this was split per person, and so worked out as good value for our group. The lodge provided a packed lunch (no extra charge). Leonardo, the lodge bird guide, knew exactly where to look for each species, and we saw most of our target birds within a couple of hours.
We stopped to bird at various points along the road leading to the reserve entrance, but the best birding area was past the reserve entrance, along the last kilometre or so of the road before reaching the top, where David Miller’s house is located. The garden here was also very productive and contains hummingbird feeders that provided excellent photographic opportunities.
Key species recorded:
White-necked Hawk (1), Black Hawk-Eagle (1-2), Scale-throated Hermit (1+ at the feeders), Plovercrest (1 feeding on roadside flowers just before the garden entrance), Violet-capped Woodnymph, White-throated Hummingbird (Several at the feeders), Brazilian Ruby (Several at the feeders), Spot-billed Toucanet (2 in the garden), White-browed Foliage-Gleaner (1), Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner (1), Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaner (1), White-collared Foliage-Gleaner (1), Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper (1), Olivaceous Woodcreeper (1), Black-billed Scythebill (1), Plain Antvireo (1), Brazilian (Rufous-tailed) Antthrush (1), Rufous Gnateater (1 seen by the group I was with but poorly by me), Sharpbill (1), Black-and-gold Cotinga (1 female in the garden seen and many heard), Hooded Berryeater (2 along the road just outside the garden), Pin-tailed Manakin (1 female), Greenish Schiffornis (1), Gray-hooded Flycatcher (1), Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet (2), Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher (1), Cliff Flycatcher (1), Rufous-crowned Greenlet (3), Rufous-browed Peppershrike (1-2), White-rimmed Warbler (1), Azure-shouldered Tanager (2) and Brassy-breasted Tanager (1).
Rio de Janeiro - 24 May, 2 and 6 July
For any birders visiting Rio, a visit to the coast and the botanical gardens is well worthwhile. The botanical gardens (Jardim Botanico do Rio de Janeiro) are a good place to spend a few hours, and many of the birds are quite used to people and approachable (in fact the guans are ridiculous). The 140 hectare gardens are located in the Jardim Botanico district and have two entrances, one at 920 and another (with a car park) at 1008 Rua Jardim Botanico (Jardim Botanico Street). The gardens are very safe to walk around and have a cafe, gift shop and toilets. They are open 08:00 to 17:00 daily and the entrance fee is R$4 per person (plus R$4 for parking). Target species in Rio include: Brown Boobie from the beaches, and Rusty-margined Guan, Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail and Channel-billed Toucan in the botanical gardens. Introduced White-tufted-ear Marmoset (Callithrix jacchus jacchus) are also easy to see in the botanical gardens.
Key species recorded:
Brown Booby, Magnificent Frigatebird, Rusty-margined Guan, Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail, Kelp Gull, Channel-billed Toucan, Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher, Red-necked Tanager and White-tufted-ear Marmoset.
Serra dos Argaos National Park - 16 July
This 12,000 hectare national park, just outside the city of Teresapolis (about an hour and a half drive from REGUA), offers excellent high altitude birding. Target species at higher altitudes here include Pallid Spinetail, Swallow-tailed Cotinga, Black-and-gold Cotinga, Diademed Tanager and Bay-chested Warbling-Finch. The park is also one of the best places to try for the vulnerable Gray-winged Cotinga, although this requires a lengthy dedicated hike (three hours non-stop) to the right area (above 1800 m along the Pedra do Sino Trail, often around the hillside opposite the first camp site at 1900 m). At lower altitudes Black-throated Piping-Guan can be found, but they are difficult.
I joined a birding excursion from the lodge. It cost US$80 for the van and driver and another US$80 to hire the lodge bird guide, split between all of us and the lodge provided a packed lunch (no extra charge). The park is open 08:00 to 17:00, Tuesday to Sunday and it cost R$12 (about £3) per person to get in. We left at 06:30 to arrive at opening. There are camping facilities available. Due to time constraints we visited on a weekend and found the trails to be very busy with hoards of noisy people. Although the crowds didn’t seem to bother the birds too much, it was sometimes difficult to listen for them. If possible try and choose a day during the week as it will be much quieter.
We concentrated on birding the high altitude Pedra do Sino Trail which starts at 1100 m climbing to 2263 m. To reach the trail drive through the park to the last car park. The trail is sign posted and climbs steadily but not too steeply. To start with you pass through evergreen and bamboo forest, but the trees gradually reduce in size as you gain altitude. Where the trail opens out towards the top the scenery is very dramatic. We spent about four or five hours walking leisurely up but walked more or less straight down, taking only about 1.5 hours to get back to the van.
Key species recorded:
Pallid Spinetail (1), White-browed Foliage-Gleaner (1), Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper (1), Olivaceous Woodcreeper (2), Rufous-backed Antvireo (1), Rufous-tailed Antbird (1-2), Mouse-colored Tapaculo (1), Sharpbill (1 heard only), Swallow-tailed Cotinga (13 together in the same tree as a singing Black-and-gold Cotinga, at the point in the trail about 45 minutes past the small bridge, where the view opens out and you can see down to the city of Teresapolis), Black-and-gold Cotinga (1+ male), Hooded Berryeater (1+), Pin-tailed Manakin (1 heard only), Olivaceous Elania (1), Blue-billed Black Tyrant (1), Shear-tailed Gray Tyrant (2+), Diademed Tanager (2-3), Brassy-breasted Tanager (Many), Bay-chested Warbling-Finch (A good sized flock seen), Green-winged Saltator (1).
Serra dos Tucanos - 15 July
Serra dos Tucanos is another birding lodge about an hour's drive from REGUA. This lodge is owned and run by British birder Andy Foster, who now lives in Brazil with his wife Christina (they are good friends with Nicholas and Raquel at REGUA). Serra dos Tucanos is a beautiful lodge located at a higher altitude than REGUA. It has easier access to some higher altitude species, although some lowland species are absent. I spent a couple of hours birding around the lodge grounds and watching the feeders.
Key species recorded:
Maroon-bellied Parakeet (4), Sombre Hummingbird (1+), Black Jacobin (1), Spot-billed Toucanet (a pair), Ferruginous Antbird (1-2), Chestnut-crowned Becard (1-2), Rufous-browed Peppershrike (1), Golden-chevroned Tanager (1), Orange-bellied Euphonia (1 male), Chestnut-bellied Euphonia (a pair), Red-necked Tanager (a few) and Rufous-collared Sparrow (1).
Sumidouro - 20 July
I was invited by Andy Foster to join him and his guests on one of his excursions to Sumidouro - one of the best sites to see the endangered and endemic Three-toed Jacamar. Other target species on this trip include Red-legged Seriema, Blue-winged Macaw, White-eared Puffbird, Hangnest Tody-Tyrant, Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Curl-crested Jay and Gilt-edged Tanager.
Sumidouro lies on the other side of the Serra dos Argaos mountains. The landscape here is a stark contrast to the lush forests of the coastal slope, with vast open grassy fields and tiny patches of degraded dry forest. This trip entailed spending most of the day driving (covering a fair distance), making numerous stops at known sites beside the roads on route to Sumidouro. We had a very successful day, with Curl-crested Jay being about the only target bird we missed. I would highly recommend Serra dos Tucanos and Andy’s day trips to anyone. This excursion is also available from Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
Key species recorded:
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (1), Bicolored Hawk (1), Crowned (Solitary) Eagle (1 seen on route on the RT-144. This species is being seen more regularly in this area), White-tailed Hawk (3), American Kestrel (1), Bat Falcon (2), Red-legged Seriema, Blue-winged Macaw (A few at Sumidouro), White-eyed Parakeet (Several), Blue-winged Parrolet (1), Scaly-headed Parrot (2), Barn Owl (1 at Sumidouro), Sapphire-spangled Emerald, (1 at Sumidouro), Three-toed Jacamar (2 at Sumidouro), White-eared Puffbird (1 at Sumidouro), Firewood-gatherer (1), Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet (1), Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher (1), Hangnest Tody-Tyrant (1), Common Tody-Flycatcher (1 at Sumidouro), Yellow-olive Flycatcher (1 at Sumidouro), Streamer-tailed Tyrant (5), Tawny-headed Swallow (2), Black-capped Donacobius (3), Orange-headed Tanager (1), Gilt-edged Tanager (Several), Uniform Finch (Several), Crested Oropendola (1 at Sumidouro), Hooded Siskin (1). Also White-tufted-ear Marmoset was seen at Sumidouro.
Summary
During our trip we visited many amazing places including the Amazon, Andes, Galapagos, Patagonia and the Pantanal, and it is no exaggeration to say that REGUA remains one of our favourites. The Serra dos Argaos mountains are beautiful and it was fascinating to spend so long in one place and get to know it well. We both hope to return in the near future. REGUA are making a huge effort to protect the Atlantic Forest of the Guapi Assu area, and most importantly, they are doing so by involving the local community. We had an unforgettable experience and thoroughly enjoyed making a contribution to the project. You can help them simply by visiting.
I really enjoyed the birding at REGUA and the mixed species flocks were some of the largest and most diverse I saw anywhere on our whole trip. Even as a novice in Brazil birding mainly alone, I recorded a total of 268 species - 210 at REGUA and the rest on just a few excursions from the lodge - and that was with me being unfamiliar with the birds, leaving many unidentified, and not trying for a high species total. The variety of species available make REGUA a very worthwhile visit on any birding itinerary to the Atlantic Forest.
If you have any questions then please contact me at lee.dingain@hotmail.co.uk.
Acknowledgements
Rachel and I would like to express our sincerest thanks to Nicholas and Raquel Locke for making our stay at REGUA so welcome and enjoyable, to Andy Foster for an excellent excursion to Sumidouro, and to Sam Woods of Tropical Birding for putting us in touch with REGUA in the first place.
References
(i) Conservation International website.
(ii) Endemic Bird Areas of the World: Priorities for Biodiversity Conservation, Stattersfield, AJ, et al, BirdLife International (1998).
All photographs © 2006 Lee Dingain