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The very, very odd KAGU. Here seen giving his great 'punk-hair do' display to his mate.
THE main reason for visiting New Caledonia is to see this incredible bird.
ALL photos in this report were taken on this tour
New Caledonia makes a superb short break, as an add-on to a longer more demanding trip elsewhere (New Guinea or Australia for example). The reason for this is simple: the birding is easy, with the possibility of getting most of the endemics even at a relaxed birding pace by visiting only a few close sites; the place itself is very relaxing and very easily accessible from Australia, just a few hours away by plane. The few main birding sites are all under two hours drive from the modern capital city of Noumea on the main island of La Grande Terre, that is more of a chilled-out beach resort than a bustling capital city. Therefore all the sites can be visited by staying in a good comfortable hotel in the relaxed atmosphere of the islands relaxed capital Noumea. With around 20 endemics to New Caledonia and surrounding islands readily available there is plenty to keep the avid listers happy, and almost all of these are fairly easy to come by by visiting only a few easily accessible sites. Of course most birders have only one real motivation for coming here - Kagu. If you are after something a little bit different, then this truly unique, flightless, semi-nocturnal, monotypic and endemic family fits the bill perfectly. This quirky bird is worth the entrance fee alone, although to ignore some of the other avian attractions is to do New Caledonia an injustice, as although the bird list is small a high proportion of the birds are endemic, and many of these are very cool birds in their own right. On top of that many of them are fairly common on this thin strip of an island, making getting repeated views of them likely and this also leads to another great aspect to a New Caledonian birding trip - good photographic opportunities are often available of many of these island specialties.
On this trip we spent three very enjoyable days covering the three main sites on La Grande Terre: Parc de la Rivière Bleue (Blue River Park), Mont Khogi and Farino. We managed to find all but one of the endemics, including two of the especially tricky ones - Crow Honeyeater and New Caledonian Grassbird. On top of this we ran into Kagus on three separate occasions, and were treated to an amazing courtship ritual on one occasion that was filmed, photographed and never to be forgotten.
YELLOW-BELLIED ROBIN A very 'cute' common endemic in Parc de la Rivière Bleue | RED-THROATED PARROTFINCH Parc de la Rivière Bleue |
SOUTHERN SHRIKEBILL Parc de la Rivière Bleue | NEW CALEDONIAN WHISTLER Parc de la Rivière Bleue |
KAGU | Because you can simply never have enough photos of KAGU can you! |
The breathtaking CLOVEN-FEATHERED DOVE Mont Khogi |
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LONG-TAILED TRILLER Mont Khogi | HORNED PARAKEET Mont Khogi |
The strange, tool-using crow species NEW CALEDONIAN CROW | NEW CALEDONIAN CROW Parc de la Rivière Bleue |
We also picked up some other trip ticks like Swamp Harrier and Brown Goshawk near there. It was a fairly relaxed day as we'd seen most of our target birds now so we simply enjoyed some great views of some of the cooler endemics we had seen before, like brilliant red New Caledonia Myzomelas, a clean-cut White-bellied (New Caledonia) Goshawk a few New Caledonia Whistlers and Long-tailed Trillers, and a bunch of Fan-tailed Gerygones, Streaked Fantails and Gray Fantails. We then returned to the quiet capital, Noumea for a final farewell dinner in this chilled-out beachside resort.
NEW CALEDONIAN CUCKOO-SHRIKE Parc de la Rivière Bleue | MELANESIAN CUCKOO-SHRIKE Parc de la Rivière Bleue |
Taxonomy and nomenclature follow Clements, J. (5th ed. updated 2004) Birds of the World. A Checklist. Pica Press. Birds that are endemic to the sub-region (that includes the island of Vanuatu) are marked as ENDEMIC.
CORMORANTS: Phalacrocoracidae
Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos A few were seen in Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
HERONS, EGRETS AND BITTERNS: Ardeidae
White-faced Heron Egretta novaehollandiae A few were seen in Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
HAWKS, EAGLES AND KITES: Accipitridae
Whistling Kite Haliastur sphenurus Fairly commonly seen in a few areas on New Caledonia, including Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
Swamp Harrier Circus approximans Only recorded on the one day when two or three birds were seen on our trip to the Farino area.
Brown Goshawk Accipiter fasciatus Again only seen on our one day in the Farino area.
New Caledonia Goshawk Accipiter haplochrous ENDEMIC This is one very smart endemic accipiter, that we ran into twice in our time in Parc de la Rivière Bleue, and also once around Farino.
RAILS, GALLINULES AND COOTS: Rallidae
Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis One ran across our path in the Farino area.
Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio Two were seen by the roadside near Farino.
KAGU: Rhynochetidae
Kagu Rhynochetos jubatus ENDEMIC The undisputed highlight of this (or any) New Caledonia trip is getting to grips with this cool endemic bird and family. Very much Caledonia's flagship bird donning their currency notes and also readily displayed on road signs around Noumea, frankly a must-see bird. We almost ran into our first pair that were literally standing in the middle of a quiet rainforest road in Parc de la Rivière Bleue. This same friendly pair were hanging around in the same area on our return journey the same day. However on this occasion they put on the full Kagu show, with a full-on display seen involving one bird pumping out his chest aggressively and approaching the other with his huge crest raised. Absolutely superb and the unquestionable trip highlight. On another day three much shyer birds in another area of the park were seen nervously crossing the road and soon disappeared into the forest. The completely predictable BIRD OF THE TRIP.
GULLS: Laridae
Silver Gull Larus novaehollandiae A few were seen hanging about on wires right in the heart of Noumea.
TERNS: Sternidae
Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii A few were seen off the coast close to Farino.
PIGEONS AND DOVES: Columbidae
Metallic Pigeon Columba vitiensis A strangely difficult bird in much of its range (e.g. in the Philippines), these birds were shockingly easy around Mont Khogi, where they were found perched on roadside wires and feeding on fruiting shrubs in the local gardens. Another was also seen at Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
Cloven-feathered Dove Drepanoptila holosericea ENDEMIC A stunningly-colorful dove, with bright lemon-yellow breast and vivid emerald green upperparts, a real 'cracker'. One was found feeding in a fruiting tree, in a garden that also held several New Caledonian Imperial Pigeons enjoying the same feast.
New Caledonian Imperial Pigeon Ducula goliath ENDEMIC As implied by the scientific name this is one very big pigeon. Not quite the biggest in the world (that title goes to the breathtaking Southern Crowned Pigeon of New Guinea), although it is the largest arboreal pigeon species in the world. Their distinctive deep calls were first heard around Parc de la Rivière Bleue, although had to wait to pick them up on Mont Khogi, where three birds were found feeding in a garden that was loaded with fruiting trees.
PARROTS: Psittacidae
Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus A common and conspicuous bird at many sites, including in the capital Noumea.
Horned Parakeet Eunymphicus cornutus ENDEMIC Another stunning endemic, that was seen at all the main sites on the island. When first picked up on Mont Khogi this species became the landmark 5000th bird for one person in the group. This odd-looking parakeet with its flashy red horns was a very worthy species to take that significant position on his world list.
Red-fronted Parakeet Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae (H) ENDEMIC Our undoubted one disappointment of the trip was only hearing this bird distantly on one occasion on Mount Khogi.
SWIFTS: Apodidae
Glossy Swiftlet Aerodramus esculenta A common daily bird on New Caledonia.
KINGFISHERS: Alcedinidae
Sacred Kingfisher Todirhamphus sanctus Two were seen in the Farino area.
CUCKOO-SHRIKES: Campephagidae
Melanesian Cuckoo-shrike Coracina caledonica This beady, yellow-eyed cuckoo-shrike is also found in the Solomons. We first saw a pair in Parc de la Rivière Bleue, with another pair there later; and also saw one at Farino.
New Caledonian Cuckoo-shrike Coracina analis ENDEMIC Several very vocal birds were seen in the Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
Long-tailed Triller Lalage leucopyga This bird was seen on all of our days in New Caledonia, and at all the sites visited.
OLD WORLD WARBLERS: Sylviidae
New Caledonian Grassbird Megalurulus mariei ENDEMIC Arguably New Caledonia's toughest bird. We found it quickly in our focused search for it in the Farino area, although it was typically skulking even then. However, we did get good close-up views with a little help from our recorder in the end.
FANTAILS: Rhipiduridae
Gray Fantail Rhipidura fuliginosa Both the fantails were very common and conspicuous being recorded a number of times at all the sites on the tour.
Streaked Fantail Rhipidura spilodera Also found on Fiji this near-endemic is a very regular member of the regular mixed flocks in the forests of New Caledonia.
MONARCH FLYCATCHERS: Monarchidae
Southern Shrikebill Clytorhynchus pachycephaloides ENDEMIC This subtly handsome, endemic flycatcher was seen twice in passing flocks in Parc de la Rivière Bleue. A much cooler bird than implied by the field guide illustration.
Melanesian Flycatcher Myiagra caledonica Two separate sightings (of a male and a female bird) of this monarch in Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
AUSTRALASIAN ROBINS: Petroicidae
Yellow-bellied Robin Eopsaltria flaviventris ENDEMIC This cute endemic was very common in Parc de la Rivière Bleue, often hopping down to catch insects just a few meters away from us.
WHISTLERS: Pachycephalidae
New Caledonian Whistler Pachycephala caledonica ENDEMIC This was a fairly commonly recorded bird in the many mixed feeding flocks found in forested areas in the Parc de la Rivière Bleue; and also recorded around Farino too.
Rufous Whistler Pachycephala rufiventris Also commonly recorded in the Parc de la Rivière Bleue, although this species seems to favor the open edge habitat compared to the New Caledonian Whistlers.
THORNBILLS AND ALLIES: Acanthizidae
Fan-tailed Gerygone Gerygone flavolatoralis This near-endemic was a very regular flock member in the forests of both Farino and Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
WHITE-EYES: Zosteropidae
Green-backed White-eye Zosterops xanthochrous ENDEMIC A common bird at all sites visited on New Caledonia, frequently encountered throughout the trip.
Silver-eye Zosterops lateralis Only recorded the once in the Farino area.
HONEYEATERS: Meliphagidae
Dark-brown Honeyeater Lichmera incana ENDEMIC A common endemic, especially in the open areas. Again recorded at all sites on the tour.
New Caledonian Myzomela Myzomela caledonica ENDEMIC A very welcome daily feature on the tour, this cool red-and-white honeyeater was seen at Farino, Mont Khogi and Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
New Caledonian Friarbird Philemon diemenensis ENDEMIC Just a few individuals were recorded at all the sites covered on the tour.
Crow Honeyeater Gymnomyza aubryana ENDEMIC This is another of the tougher endemics to get to grips with, courtesy of the fact that it is genuinely rare and thin on the ground. We picked one up feeding quietly in the understorey on our first morning at Parc de la Rivière Bleue.
Barred Honeyeater Philidonyris undulata ENDEMIC This is a very common endemic on the island and especially around Mont Khogi where they were feasting on the flowering shrubs at the time.
WOODSWALLOWS: Artamidae
White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus Several were seen in the Farino area.
CROWS AND JAYS: Corvidae
New Caledonian Crow Corvus moneduloides ENDEMIC This strange tool-using crow, one of the few bird species in the world known to use tools, was seen first in Parc de la Rivière Bleue and later in the Farino area where they were decidedly more common.
STARLINGS: Sturnidae
Striated Starling Aplonis striata Recorded at all sites visited in the tour, with many especially in the gardens on Mont Khogi.
Common Myna Acridotheres tristis A common introduced species around Noumea.
OLD WORLD SPARROWS: Passeridae
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Very commonly seen on New Caledonia.
WAXBILLS AND ALLIES: Estrildidae
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild This introduced African species was seen a couple of times in the Noumea area.
Red-throated Parrotfinch Erythrura psittacea ENDEMIC This gorgeous endemic finch was first seen in Parc de la Rivière Bleue where several showy flocks were seen, including a pair that bathed in an open stream for several minutes; and also recorded several times in Farino.