Introduction
Stellers Eider is a bird I had always wanted to see in Europe and with more information now on the Internet, it became clear that the best place to see them is Western Estonia. This year I persuaded my wife to have a short break in Estonia for the sole purpose of looking for Stellers Eider. Before going, I wasn't sure how easy this would be due to logistics and weather.
Logistics
We booked two return flights from Stansted to Tallin with EasyJet and the car hire at the same time with Europcar. The flights and the 4 day car hire cost £220 including baggage and all taxes (excellent value).
Accommodation
After arriving in Tallin, we drove south west to Lihula where we stayed at the Luige Villa Hotel - very warm, clean and tidy, the double room cost 700 EEK including breakfast. (Cash only - they don't take credit cards) English speaking receptionist. This is a good base for catching the Ferry to Saaremaa, as, unfortunately, Stellers Eider winter off the west coast of the island.
Ferry
Very easy trip. This is a "Roll-on" ferry from Virtsu to Kuivastu that sails every hour at this time of year. It costs 170 EEK each way for a car and two people. There was very little queuing. We just drove up and got straight on board. There is a cafe on board for breakfast and the crossing take 30 minutes.
On Saaremaa
To find the Eiders you have to drive across the island to the west side. The roads are excellent. We drove up to Kudema Laht and saw 20 Stellers Eiders with large number of other sea duck. We also looked at Kihelkonna Tagalaht which also has Stellers Eider although we did not see them there. I think the Undva Peninsular would probably have the highest concentration of Stellers Eiders but the very minor roads here put me off trying, just in case I got stuck here with an unhappy wife! Weather throughout was excellent. Up to 10 deg.C, bright and sunny with little wind. I'm not sure if this is always the case as it had obviously snowed the week before we arrived.
Literature
Birding in Eastern Europe by Gerald Gorman
Day 1
Arrived lunchtime in Tallin and drove to Lihula. Visited the southern side of Matsula Bay. Many Whooper Swans, Smew, Goosanders, Goldeneye, Ravens and Hooded Crows.
Day 2
Early morning drive to Tuhu. 7 Black Grouse, Great Grey Shrike, Buzzard and singing Yellowhammer. Drove to Virtsu and caught the 9.00 am ferry. On the crossing: 200 Long-tailed Ducks, 50 Common Scoter. Drove to Kudama Laht: 20 Stellers Eider, Hundreds of Long-tailed Ducks, Goldeneye, 1 Red-necked and a few Great Crested Grebes and 2 Common Cranes, probably early migrants. Drove to Kihelkonn Tagalaht: 500 Common Scoter, 20 Velvet Scoter, again large numbers of Long-tailed duck, Goldeneye and 2 Eider. A Black Woodpecker was in the pines nearby and a White-backed Woodpecker flew over the car. Drove back to catch the 4.00 pm ferry. Near to the ferry crossing, crossing the bridge at Muhu, we saw many Scaup and Smew, 5 Red-breasted Mergansers and a few Goosanders. Arrived back at Virtsu and drove to Haapsalu stopping near Lihula: 150 Whooper Swans and 200 Bean Geese. Overnight in Haapsula where there are many good hotels.
Day 3
From the hotel balcony: White-tailed Eagle, many Goosander. After breakfast drove to Sutlepa Meri . Again good numbers of Smew and Goldeneye and 3 Bitterns Booming. Drove on to Stithami point. Again, vast numbers of sea duck and another Black Woodpecker nearby. Drove to the northern side of Matsula Bay and stopped at Rannajoe Tower: 8 White-tailed Eagles and a few Bean Geese. From here drove towards Puisse and stopped to look at a mixed flock of White-fronted, Greylag, Bean Geese and 1 Barnacle Goose. Also another large group of Whooper Swan and a Great Grey Shrike. Returned to Haapsalu.
Day 4
Around Haapsula before breakfast: White-tailed Eagle, Goosanders, 2 Bewick Swans and a Northern Bullfinch. Drove back to Tallin for a mid-day flight.
Richard Drew
rrdrew@btinternet.com
14.3.08