It was just a casual question. “How’s your North East trip going, Jo, have you filled it yet?” …………
We first met Jo Thomas of WILD ABOUT INDIA (jo@wildaboutindia.com) in 2005 at the Rutland Bird Fair. After many years of frustrating independent travel in India we had given up on the subcontinent and had tried to forget about it’s amazing wildlife. But Jo persuaded us that it didn’t have to be like that, it was possible to have an enjoyable, virtually hassle-free trip and she arranged a tour for us with ASIAN ADVENTURES in 2006 to northern India (Dehra Dun-Mussoorie-Corbett-Ranikhet-Pangot). And she was right. The trip was an outstanding success, the combined expertise of WILD ABOUT INDIA and ASIAN ADVENTURES renewed our enthusiasm for the region.
But it was just conversational. I was being polite. I wasn’t ready for another visit to India…….
Arunachal Pradesh. Not on our “must visit” list. Not well-known. Remote. High. Cold. Wet. Difficult to reach, even more difficult to get entry permits. So the reply to that casual question in November 2007, that just a couple of places were left, shouldn’t have made any impression. But it did.
Over the next few days we read everything we could find on the area. Eaglenest forest, Lama Camp, Sangti Valley, Sela Pass, Bugun Liocichla. Wow! An amazing density and variety of birds, superb forest, well-organised camping trips. Adding two sites in Assam, Nameri and Kaziranga, would round-off the trip very nicely.
Decision made!
As the departure date drew closer I must admit there were some qualms; it’s going to be very cold, there will be heavy mist, it might rain a lot, how will we cope with the altitude, what about leeches in Nameri? I dealt with these and many more worries that were whizzing around my head by packing plenty of thermals, buying good-quality sleeping bags and taking professional advice on altitude sickness. We reproofed our rainwear, rediscovered our rainproof note books, bought leech-proof socks and waterproof rucksacks.
Jo organised the trip again using the services of ASIAN ADVENTURES in India. In Assam and Arunachal Pradesh our guide was Peter Lobo who has many years of experience in the area. There were seven in the group from the UK; the two of us, John van der Dol, Roger Hughes, Steve Lister, Sue Pollard as well as Jo. Mohit Aggarwal, Director of ASIAN ADVENTURES joined the tour in Delhi, so we were in very good hands throughout. Peter Lobo’s team of drivers, cooks, camp-managers and all-round hard-working, good natured guys were without fault. They fed and watered us, set up camp, gave us hot water bottles, brought delicious hot meals to us in the forest, dug us out of the snow, waited patiently as we tried to identify yet another skulking bird, and laughed and smiled their way through the whole trip.
We had 371 bird sp. and the group total was around 400. Some of our plans had to change because of the weather and bird movement was undoubtedly affected too. Snow blocked Sela Pass so we missed the opportunity of higher altitude species and birding around Eaglenest was probably less productive than usual with so much snow around, but the variety and number of species was still mind-blowing, and some species were found at a lower altitude than normal. Wildlife projects on tigers and hoolock gibbons, combined with migration of large numbers of belligerent elephants into the area, restricted our travels around Kaziranga. We didn’t really have enough time in Nameri and Kaziranga to fully appreciate these areas and a few days added to the trip would have been worthwhile. The number of days in Arunachal, at Dirang and Eaglenest, was, I believe, as long as the Restricted Area permits allow but again, more time here would be better if it’s possible.
So was it worth it? Most definitely yes. Provided you are well prepared for almost any weather conditions and don’t expect 4-Star comfort you’ll have a great time. It did get very cold but we didn’t get wet. The birds were amazing. The forests were stunning. The people were great. The organisation was excellent.
Thanks, Jo. You did it again.
ITINERARY
29 January
Arrived Delhi early afternoon. Late afternoon to Okhla
30 January
05.30 flight arriving Guwahati at 07.40. Drive to Nameri
Late afternoon-dusk walking near Nameri Eco Camp
31 January
Early morning crossed Jia Bhareli river to walk in forest
Early afternoon raft trip along Jia Bhareli river
Late afternoon-dusk walking near Nameri Eco Camp
1 February
Early morning around Nameri Eco Camp before drive to Dirang
Short visit to Sangti Valley before dusk
2 February
Morning walk in Sangti Valley. Afternoon birding drive towards Mandala
3 February
Day birding drive from Dirang towards Sela Pass reaching Baisakhi Army Camp at c.3,500m and returning to Dirang after dark
4 February
Morning birding drive to Lama Camp. Afternoon walk from camp
5 February
Morning walk downhill, afternoon walk uphill from Lama camp
6 February
Whole day crossing snow-bound Eaglenest Pass to Bompu camp
7 February
Drive above Bompu; whole day walking back towards camp
8 February
Whole day walk downhill from Bompu to Sessni camp
9 February
Short walks only from Sessni camp due to fog
Most of morning around camp. Afternoon walk uphill from camp
10 February
Early morning walk uphill from Sessni
Departed Sessni c.10.00 for drive to Kaziranga
Late afternoon around Jupuri Ghar lodge
11 February
Early morning elephant ride then jeep drive in central area of Kaziranga
Midday Jupuri Ghar lodge area
Afternoon-evening drive central-western area of Kaziranga
12 February
Morning drive in western area of Kaziranga
Afternoon tea gardens and edge of Panbari forest
Late afternoon tea gardens east of Kohora (Kaziranga)
13 February
Early drive to Guwahati. Short stops, including marshy area on edge of Guwahati
Afternoon flight arriving Delhi c.18.30
14 February
Morning flight from Delhi to London
SITES MENTIONED IN THIS REPORT
AP Arunachal Pradesh
BHALUKPONG Town on the border of Assam/Arunachal Pradesh. 213m
BOMDILA Main town of West Kameng District, between Bhalukpong and Tawang and north of Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary. 2,530m. AP
BOMPU AREA Refers to camp (1,950m) + areas we walked around Bompu (Eaglenest WLS) AP
BOMPU to SESSNI Refers to the walk from Bompu Camp down to Sessni Camp (Eaglenest WLS) AP
DIRANG Town 45k northwest from Bomdila, near Sangti Valley. 1,500m AP
DIRANG to LAMA Refers to the route from Dirang to Lama Camp, via Bomdila and Tenga. AP
DIRANG-MANDALA The road from Dirang towards Mandala ridge, passing through good forest. AP
DIRANG TOWARDS SELA PASS Sela Pass is at 4,500m (2½ hour drive from Dirang without stops); we reached barely 3,500m at the Baisakhi Army Camp. AP
EAGLENEST PASS Between Lama and Bompu Camps (Eaglenest WLS). 2,900m. AP
EAGLENEST * In this report refers to area from Lama through Bompu to Sessni Camp. AP
GUWAHATI MARSH In this report refers to an area of wetland on outskirts of Guwahati where we stopped before reaching the airport. Assam
GUWAHATI RUBBISH TIP Site for Greater Adjutants (?more than one tip near city?). A conservation project was set up a few years ago and local people protect the nesting trees of these birds in exchange for free veterinary care for their animals. AP
KAZIRANGA TO GUWAHATI The drive westwards from Kaziranga via Nagaon (with stop at Guwahati marsh)
Khellong Town south of Sessni, on the route down towards Kaziranga. AP
KOHORA The (growing) town around the main entrance to Kaziranga National Park and the Admin Centre. We stayed at Jupuri Ghar lodge, Kohora. Assam
LAMA AREA Refers to Lama Camp (2,350m; 15km from Tenga) + surrounding areas where we walked/drove (Eaglenest WLS) AP
NAMERI ECO CAMP A privately-run camp just outside the Nameri National Park. Assam
NAMERI NATIONAL PARK 200km2 park in Assam, adjoining Pakhui Wildlife Sanctuary in Arunachal. The Bhareli river runs along the western and southern boundaries. 80-225m AP
NAMERI TO DIRANG The drive from Nameri in Assam to Dirang (and Sangti Valley) in Arunachal Pradesh via Bhalukpong and Bomdila.
Okhla A stretch of the Yamuna river, 10 kms from Connaught Place, Delhi. Easy access.
PANBARI FOREST A forest reserve adjoining Kaziranga National Park, edged by tea plantations
Sangti Valley 12 kms north of Dirang; known for the Black necked Cranes which stop off for a few weeks in winter to feed in fallow rice field around the valley. 1,600m. AP
SESSNI AREA Sessni Camp (1,250m) and surrounding areas
SESSNI TO KAZIRANGA Drive from Sessni to Kaziranga via Khelong, Doimara, Kamengbari and Bhalukpong then across Brahmaputra river at Tezpur
TEA PLANTATIONS We visited two areas of tea plantation to the west of Kohora (Kaziranga), one on the edge of Panbari forest and another closer to Kohora
TENGA South of Bomdila, 15kms from Lama Camp
* For detailed information on the Eaglenest area see www.ncra.tifr.res.in/~rathreya/Eaglenest/ebp1reportW.pdf It’s a huge document but well worth reading.
This report relates to those species seen/heard by K & M Claydon only. Additional species recorded by other members of the group are listed at the end of this report. A full trip checklist is posted on the Wild About India website www.wildaboutindia.com Go to http://www.wildaboutindia.com/Reports/ChecklistBirdsAssamandAPradeshJanFeb08.pdf ) or contact Jo Thomas direct: email jo@wildaboutindia.com for further information.
DIARY NOTES
29 January 2008
DELHI / OKHLA
First bird: a ringtail Harrier by the runway at Delhi. Arrived at Sunstar Hotel in Delhi early afternoon, had lunch then headed out to Okhla for a few hours. Plenty of birds along the way but it’s so sad that there are no vultures to be seen these days (back in the 80s the Delhi sky was filled with White rumped and Indian vultures and even in the early 90s they were a common sight). This was our first visit to Okhla, never having stayed long enough in the city before to fit it in, and we were suitably impressed.
SPECIES in the DELHI area included (see also full Species List): Little Grebe, Little and Greater Cormorants, Intermediate, Little and Cattle Egrets, Purple, Grey and Indian Pond Herons, Black headed Ibis, Greater Flamingo, Greylag Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Spot billed Duck, Pintail, Shoveler, Teal, Wigeon, Gadwall, Black shouldered Kite, Black Kite, Peregrine, Kestrel, Western Marsh Harrier, Grey Francolin, Purple Swamphen, Eurasian Coot, Moorhen, White tailed and Red wattled Lapwings, Black tailed Godwit, Wood Sandpiper, Stints, Black winged Stilt, Pied Avocet, Caspian, Brown headed and Black headed Gulls, Laughing and Eurasian Collared Doves, Yellow footed Green Pigeon, Rose ringed Parakeet, Coucal, Little Swift, White fronted Kingfisher, Green Bee Eater, Barn Swallow, Plain Martin, Western Yellow Wagtail, Red vented Bulbul, Hume’s Leaf Warbler, Chiffchaff, Hume’s Whitethroat, Magpie Robin, Purple Sunbird, Long tailed Shrike, Black Drongo, House Crow, Common and Pied Starlings, Common and Bank Mynas, House Sparrow, Red Avadavat
30 January 2008
DELHI-GUWAHATI-NAMERI
Very early flight from Delhi, arriving Guwahati at 07.40h and met by Peter Lobo. Quickly transferred into three vehicles and on our way to Nameri, but first there was a short detour to a rubbish tip in Guwahati - 95 Greater and 6 Lesser Adjutants, hundreds of Black Kites (mostly lineatus) and a couple of Citrine Wagtails. An excellent start. Next stop was for a breakfast of scrambled eggs and chapattis; it took ages to be served but at least this meant everything was freshly cooked and piping hot . We used the waiting time to watch White eyes, Chestnut tailed Starling, Little Spiderhunter, etc. Travelling on through varied habitat (villages and towns, sparsely wooded hillsides, rice fields, tea plantations.) we saw a reasonable amount of birdlife.
SPECIES from GUWAHATI to NAMERI included (see also full Species List): Little Cormorant, Great, Intermediate and Cattle Egrets, Indian Pond Heron, Grey Heron, Greater and Lesser Adjutants, Asian Openbill Stork, Lesser Whistling Duck, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black shouldered and Black Kites, Red necked Falcon, Spotted Dove, Asian Barred Owlet, Himalayan Swiftlet, House and Palm Swifts, White fronted and Common Kingfishers, Green Bee Eater, Indian Roller, Barn Swallow, Citrine Wagtail, Black Bulbul, Red breasted Flycatcher, Little Spiderhunter, Oriental White eye, Brown and Long tailed Shrikes, Black Drongo, Large billed/Jungle Crow, Chestnut tailed Starling, Common and Bank Mynas, Tree Sparrow, Scaly breasted Munia
NAMERI NATIONAL PARK
We arrived at Nameri Eco Camp at Potasali on the edge of Assam’s Nameri National Park by mid-afternoon. The camp is nicely set up; accommodation is a mix of rustic chalets and large, permanently erected tents with adjoining shower and flush loo. Tasty Indian buffet-style food was served in the large dining area. Plenty of large trees provide habitat for a wide range of birds - a pair of Oriental Hobbies, Blue Whistling Thrush, Red breasted Parakeets. We spent the remaining couple of hours of daylight walking tracks beyond camp. It started to rain as night fell, becoming quite heavy for a while during the night.
31 January
NAMERI
A boat took us across the Bhareli river and we soon saw 5 Great and 2 Wreathed Hornbills overhead. We spent the morning walking in the forest seeing a good range of species. Although we failed to find White winged Duck we were pleased with what we did find: Green billed Malkoha, Fairy Bluebird, Wedge tailed Green Pigeon, Vernal Hanging Parrot and much more. The afternoon raft trip down river was enjoyable but not as productive as we’d expected as the only stop was to watch two Ibisbills amongst some rocks; it would have been good to stop to check the shore line more often. Late afternoon to dusk walk along tracks around Eco Camp.
SPECIES in and around NAMERI included (see also full Species List): Little and Greater Cormorants, Little Egret, Indian Pond Heron, Lesser Adjutant, Bar headed Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Mallard, Teal, Goosander, Osprey, Pallas’s Fish Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Common Kestrel, Oriental Hobby, Little Ringed Plover, River and Red wattled Lapwings, Greenshank, Green and Common Sandpipers, Small Pratincole, River Tern, Green Imperial Pigeon, Wedge tailed Green Pigeon, Oriental Turtle and Spotted Doves, Red breasted Parakeet, Vernal hanging Parrot, Green billed Malkoha, Collared and Asian Barred Owlets, Himalayan Swiftlet, Palm Swift, White fronted, Crested, Pied and Common Kingfishers, Indian Roller, Wreathed and Great Pied Hornbills, Lineated and Blue throated Barbets, Grey capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, Greater Flameback, Sand Lark, Plain Martin, Barn Swallow, White Wagtail, Olive backed Pipit, Long tailed Minivet, Black crested, Red whiskered, Red vented, White throated and Black Bulbuls, Golden fronted and Orange bellied Leafbirds, Common Iora, Blue Whistling Thrush, Black breasted Thrush, Striated Grassbird, Common Tailorbird, Thick billed, Yellow browed, Greenish and Yellow vented Warblers, Red breasted flycatcher, Large, Small and Rufous bellied Niltavas, Grey headed Canary Flycatcher, Siberian Rubythroat, Oriental Magpie Robin, White rumped Shama, Hodgson’s Redstart, White capped and Plumbeous Water Redstarts, Black backed Forktail, (Siberian) Stonechat, Yellow bellied Fantail, Black naped Monarch, Abbott’s Babbler, Striped Tit babbler, Great Tit, White tailed and Velvet fronted Nuthatches, Little and Streaked Spiderhunters, Oriental White eye, Black hooded Oriole, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Long tailed and Grey backed Shrikes, Large Woodshrike, Lesser Racket tailed, Haircrested and Black Drongos, Ashy Woodswallow, House and Large billed/Jungle Crows, Spot winged, Asian Pied and Chestnut tailed Starlings, Jungle, Common and Common Hill Mynas, Tree Sparrow, Wild Boar, Indian Muntjac and Hog deer, Capped Langur monkey, Himalayan Hoary-bellied Squirrel.
1 February
DEPART NAMERI
Early walk around Nameri Camp, leaving by 06.20h for Dirang. We hadn’t done the park justice - a few more days could be spent exploring the area. Leaving Nameri there’s the familiar extensive forest clearance and encroaching settlements. We stopped to watch a Crested Serpent Eagle and 2 Wreathed Hornbills then headed for Bhalukpong, the check post on the border between the States of Assam and Arunachel Pradesh.
ROUTE NAMERI to DIRANG
Our Restricted Area Permits for entry into Arunachal had been pre-arranged by Peter Lobo and it was a surprisingly quick and painless procedure to get them issued/authorised. We just waited in the vehicles whilst Peter dealt with the formalities and soon we were on the road again, climbing steep, wooded hills with a few settlements at first, then the forest thickened and our bird list increased rapidly. Our first stop produced Buff breasted Babbler, then Silver eared Mesias. As we climbed, it got colder and soon we saw snow on the ground. We stopped in Bomdila for fuel (at 2,530m; quite a climb from Nameri at only 80m or so). As we arrived at “The Native Inn - Pure Vegetarian Restaurant” it started to snow so the steaming sweetcorn soup and vegetables with noodles (chow mein) was very welcome.
We passed many army camps. Buddhist prayer flags were on every hillside and around villages. It didn’t feel at all like India up here, the people seemed to be a mix of Nepalis and Tibetans? It was late afternoon by the time we reached Dirang (Dirang Dzong) and headed for Sangti Valley for the Black necked Cranes - we found just one. After watching it chase off a pair of Ruddy Shelduck, we noticed an Asian barred Owlet in the trees behind us.
Although we were lower than earlier in the day (Dirang is around 1,500m and Sangti Valley 1,600m) we were starting to feel the cold as we checked in at Hotel Pameling. The place was clean and spacious, with very high ceilings, open doors and windows, and NO heating apart from one very old, inefficient fan heater shared between our 5 rooms! Apparently any more electrical appliances would blow the power throughout the hotel. The staff told us they had not known it so cold for 16 years or more. We all dined wearing outdoor clothing, coats, hats, scarves, the lot. The food was nice - soup, lightly spiced vegetable dishes and a mutton curry. The rooms were very cold but we were given hot water bottles which helped warm the beds a bit. In fact we slept very well - wearing thermals, balaclava and socks!
SPECIES from BHALUKPONG to DIRANG included (see also full Species List): Crested Goshawk, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Peregrine/Shaheen, Red Junglefowl, Spotted Dove, Collared Owlet, Red headed Trogon, Great Barbet, Eurasian Crag Martin, Olive backed Pipit, Red whiskered, Red vented and Black Bulbuls, Orange bellied Leafbird, Blue Whistling, Blue Rock and Plain backed Thrushes, Yellow bellied Warbler, Rufous breasted Bush Robin, Red flanked Bluetail, Hodgson’s and Blue fronted Redstarts, White capped and Plumbeous Water Redstarts, Striated Laughing Thrush, Buff breasted Babbler, Silver eared Mesia, Wallcreeper, Gould’s Sunbird, Hair crested Drongo, Large billed/Jungle Crow, Tree Sparrow, Common Hill Myna
2 February
DIRANG-SANGTI VALLEY-MANDALA ROAD
After breakfast (wearing coat, hat and gloves again) we made an early start to spend a few hours in Sangti Valley. Birding was good both around the rice fields on the valley floor (Black tailed Crake, Long billed Plover, Black necked Crane, Nepal House Martin,) and the sparsely wooded hillsides (Red flanked Bluetail, Russet Sparrow, Little Bunting). We also enjoyed talking to local people who seemed happy to see us. Was it a day of celebration? Pigs had been slaughtered in several places around the village. Back at the hotel we had half an hour birding outside whilst waiting for lunch to be served. The rest of the day was spent along the superb, thickly wooded road to Mandala, stopping to walk at many productive spots Black Eagle, White collared Blackbird, Maroon backed Accentor, Minlas, Yuhinas…) In the evening we heard there was a lot of snow higher up and Sela Pass had been closed but that it might be reopened tomorrow. On that cheery note we retired to bed early for two reasons (a) if we want to try for Sela Pass we’ll need an early start in the morning and (b) it was too cold to sit around in the lounge!!
SPECIES around DIRANG-SANGTI VALLEY-MANDALA ROAD included (see also full Species List): Ruddy Shelduck, Black Eagle, Crested Goshawk, White eyed and Common Buzzard, Peregrine (Shaheen), Black necked Crane, Black tailed Crake, Long billed Plover, Northern and Red wattled Lapwing, Ibisbill, Oriental Turtle Dove, Collared and Asian Barred Owlet, Crested Kingfisher, Great Barbet, Nepal House Martin, White (alboides) and Grey Wagtails, Red vented and Black Bulbuls, Rufous breasted and Maroon backed Accentors, Blue Rock and Blue Whistling Thrushes, White collared Blackbird, Ashy throated, Lemon rumped, Buff barred, Grey hooded and White spectacled Warblers, Rufous gorgetted and Slaty blue Flycatchers, Red flanked Bluetail (Orange flanked Bush Robin), Golden Bush Robins, Hodgson’s, Blue fronted and Black Redstarts, White capped and Plumbeous Water Redstarts, Little Forktail, Siberian Stonechat, Yellow bellied Fantail, Chestnut crowned Laughing thrush, Streak breasted Scimitar babbler, Hoary throated Barwing, Chestnut tailed and Red tailed Minlas, Beautiful Sibia, Stripe throated and Rufous vented Yuhinas, Green backed, Great and Black throated Tits, Wallcreeper, Greentailed Sunbird, Fire breasted Flowerpecker, Oriental White eye, Long tailed Shrike, Black Drongo, Nutcracker, Russet and Tree Sparrows, Yellow breasted Greenfinch, Gold naped Finch, Little Bunting
3 February
DIRANG towards SELA PASS (as far as Baisakhi Army Camp)
We set off along the valley towards Sela Pass just after 06.00h to see how far we could get. The snow-covered high peaks soon became visible, turning a rich gold as the sun rose. As we climbed higher the snow got deeper and the road more icy. There were plenty of stops for some superb birds (Laughing thrushes, Shrike Babblers, Fulvettas, Minlas, Accentors, Treecreepers …..) and also to load rocks into the back of one vehicle which was particularly prone to sliding on the icy road! We passed numerous army camps and ammunition depots which meant “no cameras” - very disappointing to be unable to record the beautiful scenery and of course the best birds were close to the camps! The rear vehicle was struggling on the ice and a little below 3,500m it was considered unsafe to go any higher. More disappointment. Huge army trucks, complete with snow chains, were continuing upwards, as were a few lorries and public buses, but we decided to play it safe. We left the vehicles and walked on through the snow and a flock of Snow Pigeons flew by - fantastic! Then a Yellow billed Blue Magpie. Further on, in a small clearing by some army buildings, we encountered a bewildering collection of Rosefinches. We reached Baisakhi Army Camp (c.3,500m) and were delighted to find that not only could we buy cups of tea but bowls of hot noodles! Taking care not to slip (the snow was about 20cm deep but had drifted knee-deep in places and was now frozen almost solid) we stood outside enjoying the food and scenery. We were told the Pass was open but only a few vehicles were getting through at a time and it was very slow progress. We toyed with the idea of getting on one of the public buses but getting back again might be a problem. Although disappointed at missing the chance of Tragopans, Grandala and other high altitude species, we felt we’d probably made the right decision. We returned to the vehicles, taking the rest of the day to slowly descend to Dirang, stopping many times. At a large grass-covered hillside we came across 6 White throated Redstarts - no doubt down here to avoid the deep snow. It was dark by the time we reached the hotel and, although the species list was less than hoped-for, we were more than happy with the day.
SPECIES from DIRANG towards SELA PASS (BAISAKHI ARMY CAMP) included (see also full Species List): Peregrine, Common Kestrel, Snow Pigeon, Alpine, Rufous breasted and Maroon backed Accentors, Winter Wren, Olive backed Pipit, Blue Rock, Blue Whistling and Plain backed Thrushes, Ashy throated and Grey hooded Warblers, Red flanked Bluetail, White browed and Rufous breasted Bush Robins, White throated, Hodgson’s and Blue fronted Redstarts, Spotted, Streaked and Chestnut crowned Laughing Thrushes, Streak breasted Scimitar babbler, Rufous capped Babbler, Green Shrike babbler, Chestnut tailed and Red tailed Minlas, Brown throated Fulvetta, Whiskered Yuhina, Grey crested, Green backed, Coal, Rufous vented and Yellow browed Tits, Wallcreeper, Rusty flanked and Bar tailed Treecreepers, Yellow billed Blue Magpie, Nutcracker, Large billed/Jungle Crow, Russet Sparrow, Dark breasted, Common, White browed and Blanford’s Rosefinches, Red headed and Grey headed Bullfinches, Gold naped Finch, Plain Mountain Finch, Himalayan Orange bellied Squirrel
4 February
DIRANG to LAMA CAMP via Bomdila and Tenga
A lie-in this morning! Breakfast at 06.00h (still wearing coats and hats) and left the hotel at 06.45h. The staff came out to say goodbye and draped silky yellow scarves around our neck - a very nice gesture. Then we were on our way towards “Eaglenest” but of course there were some stops - 14 Great Barbets feeding together in one fruiting tree, Brown Dippers, Crested Kingfishers. We refuelled at Bomdila and watched 2 Long legged Buzzards, then went food-shopping in Tenga - an amazing number of boxes, bags and cartons were loaded into the vehicles, the beers being particularly carefully packed! Most of the snow we’d seen a few days ago in Bomdila had gone but we found it again as we climbed to well over 2,000m during today’s journey.
Lama Camp (2,330m) is only 15kms from Tenga but it’s a slow uphill journey. The forest was very degraded at first, with a number of settlements. We saw Lama camp from some distance away, a snow-covered clearing on a hillside amongst better woodland. Camp was ready for us, tents in place, beds made, lunch served. And it started to snow. The dining hut was as cosy as a bamboo hut can be, with a tiny wood burning stove struggling to send out some warmth.
We walked out from camp and the road went through some decent forest as well as degraded parts. Bird of the day was undoubtedly the Bugun Liocichla which sadly Mick and I missed but we were more than happy with the Sibias, Yuhinas, Bulbuls, Warblers and so on.
One of the local hill-tribes, the Bugun community (after which the new species of Liocichla is named) is involved in conservation plans for the area and the camp has been set up to encourage wildlife tourism (read the report at www.ncra.tifr.res.in/~rathreya/Eaglenest/ebp1reportW.pdf for a huge amount of information on the Eaglenest area and the Bugun Welfare Society). We’re not sure if these plans and hopes for the area are working, judging by the amount of felled timber. Perhaps it is better than nothing but it seemed wrong that we didn’t see any local tribes people working around Lama camp - surely it’s they who should be trained to run the camp, not incomers from Nepal or Sikkim? If the local people don’t benefit, how will the forests be preserved?
Back at camp by 17.30h to be greeted with vegetable pokora to accompany tea and coffee (hot chocolate if you really want to indulge). Snowfall had turned to fine drizzle but by dark the temperature went well below zero and we had to be careful moving around camp on the frozen snow.
SPECIES from DIRANG to LAMA CAMP included (see also full Species List): Long legged Buzzard, Black Kite, Crested Kingfisher, Great Barbet, Olive backed Pipit, Mountain and Red vented Bulbuls, Brown Dipper, Blue Whistling Thrush, Brownish flanked Bush Warbler, White browed Bush Robin, Hodgson’s Redstart, Plumbeous Water Redstart, Hoary throated Barwing, Whiskered Yuhina, Black throated Tit, Tree Sparrow, Yellow breasted Greenfinch
5 February
LAMA AREA
A bucket of boiling hot water with our 05.00h wake-up call was most welcome as the 1cm layer of ice on the shower hut water was not to our liking! The temperature remained low through the morning and the ground was frozen hard as we walked downhill from camp but we were well wrapped up and didn’t feel particularly cold as we found more and more birds (Crimson Woodpecker, Blackfaced Warbler, Wren Babblers…) Peter felt there were fewer birds around than usual (the weather?) but there was more than enough to keep us occupied.
Lunch was back at camp: soup, noodles, vegetables and sausages. In the afternoon we drove along the road above camp. Lots of snow lying up here, far more than Peter has seen in this area before, and the road started to get a bit dodgy. We walked slowly back down to camp through better forest, as the drivers went higher to check the condition of the road - that’s where we’re heading tomorrow! By late afternoon a heavy mist descended and we returned to camp around 16.00h. It was less cold but by dark the lying snow was very crunchy and any exposed mud was frozen solid. As we sat around the wood stove chatting about the day’s experiences we were joined by the American couple we’d first met at Pameling Hotel in Dirang. They were following a couple of days behind our tour (another of Peter’s team from Gurudongma Birding Tours was guiding them) but in view of the road conditions they will join us tomorrow for the journey across Eaglenest Pass, we’ll travel in convoy. Hot water bottles again tonight - what luxury!
SPECIES in the LAMA area included (see also full Species List): Mountain Hawk Eagle, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Collared Owlet, Crimson breasted and Bay Woodpeckers, Olive backed Pipit, Maroon backed Accentor, Plain backed Thrush, Black faced and Ashy throated Warblers, Red flanked Bluetail, White browed Bush Robins, Hodgson’s and Blue fronted Redstarts, White capped Water Redstart (by a small settlement in a forest clearing!), Chestnut crowned and White throated(heard) Laughing Thrushes, Slender billed Scimitar Babbler, Scaly breasted and Rufous throated Wren Babblers, Rufous capped Babbler, Rusty fronted Barwing, Chestnut tailed and Red tailed Minlas, Beautiful Sibia, Stripe throated and Black chinned Yuhinas, Yellow browed Tit, Gould’s Sunbird, Yellow billed Blue Magpie, Nutcracker, Longbilled/Jungle Crow, Dark breasted, Dark rumped and Blanford’s Rosefinches, Red headed and Grey headed Bullfinches, Goldnaped Finch
6 February
LAMA CAMP to BOMPU CAMP across EAGLENEST PASS
Yesterday the drivers had found quite deep snow above Lama Camp. We were well-fed (beans on toast, porridge, fruit) in preparation for what turned out to be a memorable day. We started walking uphill as the team packed up the whole camp - tents, loos, the lot, all loaded onto a small pickup truck. A rather quiet morning, bird-wise, perhaps due to the very low temperature. Lots of Beautiful Sibias and Stripe throated Yuhinas, though. After a while the vehicles caught up with us and we began the journey towards Bompu Camp with the truck in the lead, then our three vehicles, followed by the Americans’ vehicle. One of our vehicles was not performing well. Pretty soon it stalled - diesel freezing in the tank. The remedy was to light a fire underneath it then, as it thawed, suck on the fuel pipe! It worked, for a while. As Mohit Aggarwal would need to leave the tour tomorrow it was decided he’d be taken to Guwahati now in the dodgy vehicle rather than risk getting stuck up here. The snow was getting a bit deeper and very icy and we started to get stuck. It was difficult getting the pickup around the sharp, uphill bends. The whole crew were digging and pushing and eventually it was round the first bend. Then the next vehicle got stuck. And so the day went on. Digging, pushing, even pulling each vehicle with rope to get it past the next bend, then back to get another vehicle moved. The higher we went, the deeper the snow, the lower the temperature and the steeper the drop at the side of the road! Some of us worried we wouldn’t make it but Peter had full confidence in his team, they would get us across the Pass, it would just take a long time. What if we don’t make it before nightfall? “Not likely” was Peter’s reply, “but we have the whole camp with us, no other vehicles will be on this track, we can set up camp anywhere.” The team worked extremely hard but all the time they were laughing and joking, even finding energy to build a snowman!! No cooked lunch today, but we had plenty of crisps, biscuits, fruit, Bombay mix and snack bars. By early afternoon we reached the highest point, 2,900m (and only 10kms from Lama Camp!) with snow 20cm deep. Now we were heading downhill - just as bad, really, and several land-slides to negotiate. We didn’t fit in much birding today but the views were wonderful and the forest pretty amazing, with trees draped in hanging mosses and epiphytes.
As we got down to about 2,000m the snow had mostly disappeared. On the approach to Bompu there was a lot of damage to the bamboo and smaller trees. Some might have been done by elephants but was more likely was due to the weight of snow with possibly some wind damage. Peter had never seen anything like it here before. We reached Bompu Camp with 1½ hours of daylight left. Fantastic views here over densely wooded hills down to the distant, very hazy, Assam plains. Lots of bamboo (Bompu = bamboo). The guys who had worked so hard all day now had to set up camp, prepare dinner and light fires to deter elephants. And still they were laughing and joking. The tents were set up on what little remains of the road builders’ camp. One building, just walls and a roof, was used as the kitchen and dining areas, a small generator providing light here. It was certainly less cold now so we got buckets of steaming hot water and braved a strip wash in the shower hut.
SPECIES from LAMA CAMP to BOMPU CAMP included (see also full Species List): Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Rufous throated Partridge (heard), Collared Owlet (heard), Darjeeling Woodpecker, Olive backed Pipit, Plain backed Thrush, Black faced Warbler, Streak throated Barwing, Beautiful Sibia, Stripe throated and Black chinned Yuhinas, Gould’s Sunbird, Nutcracker, Blanford’s and Dark breasted Rosefinches, Red headed and Grey headed Bullfinches. Orange bellied and Striped Squirrels; tracks of Yellow throated Marten and a medium-sized cat
7th February
BOMPU AREA
Coffee and biscuits at 05.30h. The American couple spent the day walking uphill from camp; we did it the easy way and jumped into the vehicles, back up the road we’d come down on yesterday - but only to the start of the snow! The vehicles then left us to walk back. Splendid birds: Fire tailed Myzornis, Cutias, Rufous necked Hornbills, Bay Woodpecker, Long billed Wren Babbler. We got a surprise at 08.00h - we rounded a bend and saw a table, complete with tablecloth, set for breakfast! We had not expected hot porridge and hot chappatis out in the forest! Same happened at lunchtime. We found many signs of elephant today - footprints, dung, stripped vegetation - but not very fresh. Back to camp around 16.40h, very tired but delighted with our day. After dark Jo called us to see a mongoose-like mammal running around the camp but we couldn’t find it again. It rained heavily during the night.
SPECIES in BOMPU AREA included (see also full Species List): Rufous throated Hill Partridge (heard), Grey Peacock Pheasant (heard), Barred Cuckoo Dove, Collared Owlet, Rufous necked Hornbill, Blue throated Barbet, Darjeeling, Crimson breasted and Bay Woodpeckers, Olive backed Pipit, Striated and Mountain Bulbuls, Golden fronted Leafbird, Maroon backed Accentor, Long tailed and Plain backed Thrushes, Ashy throated, Buff barred, White spectacled, Broad billed and Black faced Warblers, Red flanked Bluetail, Grey sided, Black faced and Chestnut crowned Laughing Thrushes, Long billed Wren Babbler, Cutia, White browed Shrike Babbler, Streak throated barwing, Chestnut tailed Minla, Yellow throated Fulvetta, Beautiful Sibia, Stripe throated and Black chinned Yuhinas, Fire tailed Myzornis, Yellow cheeked Tit, White tailed Nuthatch, Gould’s Sunbird, Yellow billed Blue Magpie, Nutcracker, Blanford’s Rosefinch, Red headed and Grey headed Bullfinches, Orange bellied and Striped Squirrels
8 February
BOMPU to SESSNI
The rain stopped before daybreak. We left camp at 06.00h to walk to Sessni camp, dropping nearly 700m, from about 1,940m at Bompu to 1,250m at Sessni, very steep in places but through very good forest. It seemed to go on for miles and miles, no vehicles, no people, an excellent, if tiring, day. Some really huge trees here, mostly evergreen broadleaf with some deciduous, lots of climbers and epiphytes. Birds rather hard to come by - long spells of nothing then large mixed- or single-species flocks; still adding new species (Wren Babblers, Golden Babbler, Black eared Shrike Babbler, Parrotbills, Black throated Sunbird). Lower down the vegetation was a little different, e.g. flowering shrubs and patches of giant stinging nettle (“sessni” is a local name for this plant); we found nymphalid-type caterpillars and a large red and brown hawker dragonfly. Signs of mammals were more obvious, too; deer, “cattle” and elephant droppings/tracks, and all along the road what was probably Yellow throated marten droppings (territory markers). We found areas of scuffed, disturbed ground and what looked very much like Porcupine footprints - a black and white quill supported this suggestion! It was rather dull and cloudy today, becoming much milder as we descended with a little light rain as we reached camp. The site overlooks a disturbed, regenerating area with thick forest beyond. As dusk fell fires were lit at each end of the camp, completely blocking the road, to deter elephants. It must have been milder because a huge cream-and-brown moth with a 12-14cm wingspan and very long “tails” joined us at dinner, a very impressive insect. There were lots of other moths flying around, too, and a big dung beetle.
SPECIES from BOMPU down to SESSNI CAMP included (see also full Species List): Rufous throated Partridge (heard), Grey Peacock Pheasant (heard), Barred Cuckoo Dove, Collared Owlet, Red headed Trogon, Rufous necked Hornbill, Great barbet, Bay Woodpecker, Olive backed Pipit, Striated Bulbul, Golden fronted and Orange bellied Leafbirds, Maroon backed Accentor, Long tailed and Plain backed Thrushes, Ashy throated, Grey hooded, White spectacled, Chestnut crowned and Black faced Warblers, Red flanked Bluetail, Yellow bellied Fantail, Striated, Black faced and Chestnut crowned Laughing Thrushes, Coral billed Scimitar Babbler, Long billed and Wedge billed Wren Babblers, Golden Babbler, Black eared Shrike Babbler, Rusty fronted Barwing, Chestnut tailed and Red tailed Minlas, Yellow throated and Rufous winged Fulvettas, Beautiful and Long tailed Sibias, White naped, Whiskered and Black chinned Yuhinas, Black throated Parrotbill, Black throated, Yellow cheeked and Yellow browed Tits, Black throated Sunbird, Bronzed and Lesser Racket tailed Drongos
9 February
SESSNI AREA
A “tawny” owl was calling just before dawn - maybe the Himalayan race of Wood Owl (Strix nivicola)?? Too foggy to birdwatch first thing and we had breakfast in the open, checking the trees whenever the fog cleared. We then tried walking down hill but visibility remained poor; we drove lower down but still no good. We persevered and saw some good species, e.g. three Scarlet Finches, a male Rufous gorgetted Flycatcher and a brief view of a Long tailed Broadbill. The mist eased in the afternoon and most of the group walked uphill but we stayed around camp and had Maroon Oriole, Leafbirds, Sibias, Minivets and a few raptors.
SPECIES around SESSNI included (see also full Species List): Black Eagle, Rufous throated Partridge (heard), Grey Peacock Pheasant (heard), Wedge tailed Green Pigeon, Collared owlet (heard), Red headed Trogon, Rufous necked Hornbill, Great and Lineated Barbets, Long tailed Broadbill, Olive backed Pipit, Grey chinned and Scarlet Minivets, Striated Bulbul, Gold fronted and Orange bellied Leafbirds, Maroon backed Accentor, Long tailed and Plain backed Thrushes, Chestnut headed Tesia, Grey cheeked, Chestnut crowned and Black faced Warblers, Rufous gorgetted Flycatcher, Red flanked Bluetail, Spotted Forktail, White crested Laughing Thrush (heard only), Striated and Chestnut crowned Laughing Thrushes, Coral billed Scimitar Babbler, Golden Babbler, Cutia, Black eared Shrike Babbler, Rusty fronted Barwing, Blue winged and Red tailed Minlas, Nepal Fulvetta, Rufous backed, Beautiful and Long tailed Sibias, White naped, Whiskered, Rufous vented and Black chinned Yuhinas, Greater rufous headed Parrotbill, Black throated Sunbird, Maroon Oriole, Ashy and Greater Racket tailed Drongos, Green Magpie, Collared Treepie, Dark breasted Rosefinch, Scarlet finch
10 February
SESSNI AREA
Early walk uphill (Greater Rufous headed Parrotbill, Rufous backed Sibia, Cutia), then back for breakfast as two Rufous necked Hornbills flew by. A Large Scimitar Babbler was heard, and responded to tape, but didn’t show.
SESSNI to KAZIRANGA (via Khellong-Doimara-Bhalukpong-Tezpur)
We were all sorry to be leaving such wonderful forest, particularly as a Red headed Trogon was seen by camp, but we were looking forward to the very different habitats of Kaziranga. After only half an hour’s driving down hill from camp the forest was more sparse and signs of human activity were everywhere. The lunch stop, before reaching “civilisation”, gave us Black Eagle, Crested Bulbul, Green Imperial Pigeons and Barbets. Later we saw two Malayan Giant Squirrels. Further on there wasn’t much forest left and Rollers, Shrikes and Kestrels were taking advantage of the open habitat. Small settlements dotted amongst rice fields, villages with tiny shops selling fruit, vegetables, sweets and biscuits, then we reached towns. At 13.30h we crossed into Assam by a large sign announcing the boundary of Sonairupai Wildlife Sanctuary (now badly damaged by wood collectors). We reached Tezpur at 14.15h and crossed the vast expanse of the Brahmaputra river and before long were on the western fringes of Kaziranga - 3 Rhinos, several Hog deer, Great Pied Hornbills, Woolly necked Storks, Bar headed Geese and a Black shouldered Kite, all seen from the highway. We arrived at Jupuri Ghar lodge, Kohora at 16.00h so had a short while to look around the grounds, nearby rice fields and wooded hillside - the sight of 23 Great Pied Hornbills gathering to roost at dusk was spectacular.
SPECIES SESSNI to KAZIRANGA (see also full Species List):
Higher Areas, Sessni to ?Khellong: Changeable Hawk and Black Eagles, Barred Cuckoo Dove, Red headed Trogon, Rufous necked Hornbill, Great, Lineated and Golden throated Barbets, Striated and Black Crested Bulbuls, Orange bellied Leafbird, Greenish, Greycheeked, Blackfaced and Broad billed Warblers, Rufous gorgetted Flycatcher, Red flanked Bluetail, Plumbeous Water Redstart, Yellow bellied Fantail, Striated Laughing Thrush, Coral billed Scimitar Babbler, Cutia, Rusty fronted Barwing, Blue winged Minla, Yellow throated Fulvetta, Rufous backed, Beautiful and Long tailed Sibias, Rufous vented and Blackchinned Yuhinas, Greater Rufous headed Parrotbill, Black throated Sunbird, Ashy and Bronzed Drongos, Green Magpie (heard)
Lowlands: Little, Intermediate and Cattle Egrets, Indian Pond Heron, Openbill, Woolly necked and Lesser Adjutant Storks, Bar headed Goose, Black shouldered and Black Kites, Crested Serpent Eagle, Kestrel, Spotted and Eurasian Collared Dove, Green and Mountain Imperial Pigeons, Rose ringed Parakeet, White throated Kingfisher, Green Bee Eater, Indian Roller, Great Pied Hornbill, Lineated and Blue throated Barbets, Barn Swallow, Red Whiskered and Red vented Bulbuls, White capped Water Redstart, Black hooded Oriole, Brown and Long tailed Shrikes, Black and Haircrested Drongos, House Crow, Large billed/Jungle Crow, Asian Pied Starling, Chestnut tailed Starling, Jungle and Common Mynas, House Sparrow
Jupuri Ghar Lodge, Kohora: Asian Barred Owlet, unidentified Nightjar sp., Great Pied Hornbill, Coppersmith Barbet, White Wagtail (leucopsis and alboides), Small Niltava, Great Tit, Crimson Sunbird, Ashy Drongo, Chestnut tailed Starling, White vented Myna, Tree Sparrow
11 February
KAZIRANGA
An early morning elephant ride across the grassland was a nice introduction to Kaziranga Park. No Florican (not expected!) but plenty of deer, a rhino with calf, Black necked and Woolly necked Storks, Rosy Pipits and a wild bull elephant. Back to the lodge for breakfast, then into the Park again for a jeep ride in the Central section (Pallas’s and Grey headed Fish Eagles, Black Stork, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Woodpeckers, water buffalo, smooth coated otter). The permit system is crazy and the park is closed between 12.00 and 14.00h. We filled this time by checking the areas surrounding the lodge - Pintail Snipe in the rice fields. We were back in the Park as soon as possible, again in the central area but venturing a little to the west. Another successful day and everyone was happy.
SPECIES at KAZIRANGA included (see also full Species List): Spot billed Pelican, Little and Greater Cormorant, Oriental Darter, Little, Intermediate, Great and Cattle Egrets, Grey, Purple and Indian Pond Herons, Openbill, Black, Woolly necked, Black necked, Greater and Lesser Adjutant Storks, Bar headed Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Gadwall, Wigeon, Mallard, Spot billed Duck, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Common Teal, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Brahminy Kite, Pallas’s and Grey headed Fish Eagles, Slender billed Vulture, Crested Serpent and Changeable Hawk Eagle, Pied Harrier, Shikra, Osprey, Kestrel, Swamp Francolin, Red Junglefowl, White breasted Waterhen, Bronze winged Jacana, Little Ringed Plover, River, Northern and Red wattled Lapwings, Common Snipe (Pintail by Jupuri Ghar lodge), Spotted Redshank, Greenshank, Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers, Avocet, River Tern, Spotted, Oriental Turtle, Eurasian and Red Collared Doves, Yellow footed Green Pigeon, Alexandrine, Rose ringed and Red breasted Parakeets, Green billed Malkoha, Greater Coucal, Asian Barred and Spotted Owlets, Stork billed, White throated and Pied Kingfishers, Green Bee Eater, Indian Roller, Hoopoe, Oriental Pied and Great Pied Hornbills, Lineated Barbet, Streak throated and Greater Flameback Woodpeckers, Bengal Bushlark, Plain Martin, Barn Swallow, Citrine and White Wagtails (alboides and leucopsis), Rosy Pipit, Red whiskered, Red vented (outside Park) and Black Bulbuls, Blue Whistling Thrush (Jupuri Ghar Lodge), Black breasted Thrush, Zitting Cisticola, Common Tailorbird, Dusky Warbler, Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, Striated Grassbird, Little Pied Flycatcher, Small Niltava, Oriental Magpie Robin, White rumped Shama, Siberian Stonechat, Black naped Monarch, Great Tit, Ruby cheeked Sunbird, Oriental White Eye, Black hooded Oriole, Long tailed and Grey backed Shrikes, Black Drongo, Rufous Treepie, Large billed/Jungle Crow, Common Hill Myna, Spot winged, Asian Pied and Chestnut tailed Starlings, Tree Sparrow, Baya and Finn’s Weavers, Hog Deer, Swamp Deer, Indian Rhinoceros, Wild Elephant, Wild Water Buffalo, Smooth coated Otter, Orange bellied Squirrel
12 February
KAZIRANGA - edge of Panbari Forest - Kohora Tea Plantations
Into the Western range in Kaziranga but a late start as they don’t open the Park until 08.00h. Lots of tall grass as well as open short grassland, wooded sections and by the river a narrow strip of woodland. We spent a long time at a huge observation platform overlooking the river - plenty to see from up there: 17 rhinos, lots of deer and a good number of bird species. In the afternoon we went to Panbari but guards said we couldn’t walk in the forest because of the many elephants which had migrated down from the northeast - we could hear them not too far away so heeded the warning and stayed on the edge of the forest and the tea plantation. Capped langurs, Macaques and Striped Squirrels were here and, although we didn’t see them, a group of Hoolock Gibbons called very close by. Not many birds but what we did see was good: Blue bearded Bee Eater, Lesser and Greater Necklaced Laughing thrushes, Verditer Flycatcher. We moved to better tea plantations with some natural habitat (bamboo, trees and thickets) and tried hard to see Blue naped Pitta - one was calling very close but we failed to see it beneath the tea bushes. Blue eared Barbet called but flew off before we could see it. Rufous necked Laughing thrushes were much more obliging.
SPECIES at KAZIRANGA, PANBARI AREA and TEA PLANTATIONS included (see also full Species List): Spot billed Pelican, Little and Greater Cormorant, Oriental Darter, Little, Intermediate, Great and Cattle Egrets, Grey, Purple and Indian Pond Herons, Asian Openbill, Woolly necked, Black necked and Lesser Adjutant Storks, Bar headed Goose, Ruddy and Common Shelducks, Gadwall, Wigeon, Mallard, Spot billed Duck, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Common Teal, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Pallas’s and Grey headed Fish Eagles, Crested Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Shikra, Osprey, Kestrel, Red Jungle Fowl, Pacific Golden Plover, Grey headed, Red Wattled and Northern Lapwings, Common Snipe, Spotted and Common Redshanks, Greenshank, Marsh, Green and Wood Sandpipers, Temminck’s Stint, Pied Avocet, River Tern, Spotted and Eurasian Collared Doves, Yellow footed Green Pigeon, Green Imperial Pigeon, Rose ringed and Red breasted Parakeets, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Green billed Malkoha, Greater Coucal, Asian Barred Owlet, Stork billed, White fronted and Pied Kingfishers, Blue bearded Bee Eater, Indian Roller, Oriental Pied Hornbill (heard), Lineated, Blue throated, Blue eared (heard) and Coppersmith (heard) Barbets, Grey capped, Grey headed, Greater yellownape and Black rumped Flameback Woodpeckers, Blue naped Pitta (heard), Plain Martin, Barn Swallow, White Wagtail (alboides and leucopsis), Long tailed and Scarlet Minivets, Red whiskered, Red vented and Black Bulbuls, Common Iora, Ashy and Plain Prinias, Dusky, Yellow browed (heard) and Greenish (heard) Warblers, Slaty backed, Red throated, Little Pied and Verditer Flycatchers, Oriental Magpie Robin, White rumped Shama, Siberian Stonechat, Lesser and Greater necklaced Laughing Thrushes, Rufous necked Laughing Thrush, Striated Babbler, Great Tit, Crimson Sunbird, Black hooded Oriole, Long tailed and Grey backed Shrikes, Large Woodshrike, Black, Bronzed, Hair crested and Greater Racket tailed Drongos, Green Magpie, Rufous Treepie, Large billed/Jungle Crow, Asian Pied and Chestnut tailed Starlings, White vented, Jungle and Common Mynas, Tree and House Sparrows, Baya Weaver, Capped langurs, Rhesus Macaques, Hoolock Gibbons (heard), Striped Squirrels
13 February
KAZIRANGA to GUWAHATI
Our flight from Guwahati was brought forward and we left the lodge by 07.00h. At least there was plenty to see along the road - first stop was for a huge colony of fruit bats roosting in a village tree, along with 4 Darters, a Grey capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Chestnut tailed and Pied Starlings and Common Mynas. We reached Guwahati in good time, so spent half an hour looking over a marshy area on the outskirts of town before going to the airport.
SPECIES along KAZIRANGA-GUWAHATI road included (see also full Species List): Little Cormorant, Darter, Little, Intermediate and Cattle Egrets, Indian Pond Heron, Asian Openbill, Lesser Adjutant, Lesser Whistling Duck, Bar headed Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Black Kite, Osprey, Red wattled Lapwing, Red breasted parakeet, White throated and Pied Kingfishers, Indian Roller, Grey capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Rufous Treepie, House Crow, Large billed/Jungle Crow, Asian Pied and Chestnut tailed Starlings, Jungle Myna, Common Hill Myna
14 February RETURN FLIGHT TO LONDON
Birds - total 371
LITTLE GREBE Tachybaptus ruficollis
Okhla: 3-4
SPOT BILLED PELICAN Pelicanus philippensis
Kaziranga: 20 in park on 11th and 3 on 12th
LITTLE CORMORANT Phalacrocorax niger
Okhla: >10
Guwahati-Nameri route: 4 singles
Nameri: 3
Kaziranga: 100+ in park on 11th and 10+ on 12th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 5 singles along this route
Guwahati: 5 at Guwahati marsh on 13th
GREAT CORMORANT Phalacrocorax carbo
Okhla: 3+
Nameri: 50+
Kaziranga: 30+ on 11th and 2 on 12th
DARTER Anhinga melanogaster
Kaziranga: 10 in park 11th and 15 on 12th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 4 perched on tall tree in village between Kaziranga and Nagaon on 13th
LITTLE EGRET Egretta garzetta
Nameri: 3
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 on approach to Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 10 on 11th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 4 singles along Kaziranga-Guwahati route on 13th
GREAT EGRET Casmerodius albus
Guwahati-Nameri route: 3
Kaziranga: up to 6 around Kaziranga
INTERMEDIATE EGRET Mesophoyx intermedia
Okhla: 2
Guwahati-Nameri route: 5 singles
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 3 on approach to Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 2-3 in park
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 2 singles between Kaziranga and Nagaon on 13th
GREY HERON Ardea cinerea
Okhla: 4
Guwahati-Nameri route: 1 east of Guwahati
Kaziranga: 2 in park 11th and 3 on 12th
PURPLE HERON Ardea purpurea
Okhla: 2
Kaziranga: singles in park on 11th and 12th
CATTLE EGRET Bubulcus ibis
Delhi-Okhla: common around Okhla and outskirts of Delhi
Guwahati-Nameri route: frequent sightings of 2s-3s
Common in Assam lowlands / Kaziranga area with day counts of 50-60
INDIAN POND HERON Ardeola grayii
Okhla: 3
Guwahati-Nameri route: 3 singles
Nameri: 2 at Nameri
Common in Assam lowlands / Kaziranga area with day counts of 15+, 20 and 25+
ASIAN OPENBILL Anastomus oscitans
Guwahati-Nameri route: several flocks along this route, total 150+
Sessni - Kaziranga route: small groups frequent along route towards Kaziranga
Kaziranga: common, day counts of 20 to 50+
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 2 singles west of Kaziranga on 13th
Guwahati marshland: 30 at Guwahati marsh on 13th
BLACK STORK Ciconia nigra
Kaziranga: 4 in park on 11th
WOOLLY NECKED STORK Ciconia episcopus
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 2 west of Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 10 in Park on 11th and 4 on 12th
BLACK NECKED STORK Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus
Kaziranga: 4 in park on 11th, 2 on 12th
LESSER ADJUTANT Leptoptilus javanicus
Guwahati: 6 at Guwahati rubbish dump with Greater L.dubius on 30th
Nameri: 5 singles around Nameri on 31st
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 2 west of Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 10 in Park on 11th, 4 on 12th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: total 17 (5+6+5+1) along Kaziranga-Guwahati route on 13th
GREATER ADJUTANT Leptoptilus dubius
Guwahati: 95 at Guwahati rubbish dump on 30th
Kaziranga: 2 in Park on 11th
BLACK HEADED IBIS Threskiornis melanocephalus
Okhla: 2 Okhla
GREATER FLAMINGO Phoenicopterus roseus
Okhla: c.350 at Okhla
LESSER WHISTLING DUCK Dendrocygna javanica
Guwahati-Nameri route: Flock of c.120
Guwahati marshland: 50+ probably this sp. viewed from roadside on 13th
GREYLAG GOOSE Anser anser
Okhla: 500+
BAR HEADED GOOSE Anser indicus
Nameri: 2 over Jia Bhareli river
Kaziranga: large numbers around Kaziranga with day counts of 150 / 600 / 500
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: Two flocks (50 + 65) seen west of Kaziranga on 13th
RUDDY SHELDUCK Tadorna ferruginea
Okhla: c.10 at Okhla
Nameri: total c.30 (pairs/4s)
Sangti Valley: 2 in rice fields on 1st, two pairs there 2nd
Kaziranga: up to 4 seen each day
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 2 west of Kaziranga on 13th
COMMON SHELDUCK Tadorna tadorna
Kaziranga: 2 in Park on 12th
GADWALL Anas streptera
Okhla: only one identified but probably more in distant flocks
Kaziranga: c.6 both days
EURASIAN WIGEON Anas penelope
Okhla: 10+
Kaziranga: 6 on 11th, c.40 on 12th
MALLARD Anas platyrhynchos
Nameri: 30+ on Jia Bhareli river
Kaziranga: 20 on 11th, 6 on 12th
SPOT BILLED DUCK Anas posecilorhyncha
Okhla: 100+
Kaziranga: common, 100+ both days
NORTHERN SHOVELER Anas chlypeata
Okhla: c.10,000
Kaziranga: 10 on 11th, 6-8 on 12th
NORTHERN PINTAIL Anas acuta
Okhla: c.500
Kaziranga: 170 on 11th, 100+ on 12th
COMMON TEAL Anas crecca
Okhla: c.500
Nameri: c.40 along Jia Bhareli river
Kaziranga: 20+ on 11th, 10+ on 12th
GOOSANDER (Common Merganser) Mergus mergus
Nameri: 15 (in 2s/3s) along Jia Bhareli river
ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD Pernis ptilorhynchus
Guwahati-Nameri route: 2 together
Nameri-Dirang route: 1
Kaziranga: 3 singles Kaziranga on 11th and 1 over Jupuri Ghar on 12th
BLACK SHOULDERED KITE Elanus caeruleus
Delhi - Okhla: 1 on outskirts of Delhi and 1 at Okhla
Guwahati-Nameri route: 2 singles
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 on approach route to Kaziranga on 10th
BLACK KITE Milvus migrans
Delhi: hundreds (a few lineatus noted)
Guwahati: hundreds around the well-known rubbish dump (mostly lineatus noted)
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 1
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 well below Sessni on 10th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: total 11 seen along Kaziranga-Guwahati route on 13th
BRAHMINY KITE Haliaster indus
Kaziranga: 1 immature
PALLAS’S FISH EAGLE Haliaeetus leucoryphus
Nameri: 1 near nest, and ?same bird in flight later
Kaziranga: min.4 both days in Park
GREY HEADED FISH EAGLE Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus
Kaziranga: min.4 (?6) seen both days in park
SLENDER BILLED VULTURE Gyps tenuirostris
Kaziranga: 2 perched birds (together) 11th
CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE Spilornis cheela
Nameri: 1
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 south of Sessni on 10th
Kaziranga: 2 sightings each day in park
WESTERN MARSH HARRIER Circus aeruginosus
Okhla: Min.5
PALLID HARRIER Circus macrourus
Delhi: 1 ringtail probably this sp. by runway at Delhi airport on 29h
PIED HARRIER Circus melanoleucos
Kaziranga: 1 probable ♀/ringtail - brief, distant view
SHIKRA Accipiter badius
Kaziranga: 3 sightings on both days in park
EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK Accipiter nisus
Lama area: 2 singles on 5th and 1 probable on 6th
CRESTED GOSHAWK Accipiter trivirgatus
Nameri-Dirang route: 1
Dirang: 1
WHITE EYED BUZZARD Butaster teesa
Sangti Valley: 1 probable
COMMON BUZZARD Buteo buteo
Sangti Valley: Singles seen on 1st and 2nd
LONG LEGGED BUZZARD Buteo rufinus
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 2 together near Bomdila town
BLACK EAGLE Ictinaetus malayensis
Dirang-Mandala route: 1
Sessni area: 1 adult on 8th and 1 immature on 9th
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 3 singles south of Sessni on 10th
CHANGEABLE HAWK EAGLE Spitzaetus cirrhatus
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 probably this sp. south of Sessni on 10th
Kaziranga: 3 singles on 11th and 1 on 12th
MOUNTAIN HAWK EAGLE Spitzaetus nipalensis
Nameri-Dirang route: 1
Lama area: 1 near Lama camp on 5th
Sessni area: 1 possibly this sp. on 9th
OSPREY Pandion haliaetus
Nameri: 1 near Nameri Eco Camp
Kaziranga: 3 sightings at Kaziranga on 11th, single on 12th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 1 seen on 13th
COMMON KESTREL Falco tinnunculus
Okhla: 1
Nameri: 1
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 3 singles
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 3
Kaziranga: 3 in park on 11th and 1 on 12th
RED NECKED FALCON Falco chiquera
Guwahati-Nameri route: 1
ORIENTAL HOBBY Falco severus
Nameri: pair at Nameri Eco camp seen two days
PEREGRINE Falco peregrinus
Okhla: 1 juvenile calidus
Nameri-Dirang route: 1 (“Shaheen” peregrinator) on 1st
Dirang: 1 in Sangti Valley (“Shaheen” peregrinator) on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 on 3rd
GREY FRANCOLIN Francolinus pondicerianus
Okhla: 2 seen and others heard
SWAMP FRANCOLIN Francolinus gularis
Kaziranga: 3 seen and frequently heard around Park
RED JUNGLE FOWL Gallus gallus
Bhalukpong-Dirang route: 1 ♂ seen
Kaziranga: 6 seen on 11th, 4 on 12th
BLACK NECKED CRANE Grus nigricollis
Sangti Valley: 1 in Sangti Valley on 1st and 2nd (?second-year bird, no red visible on head)
WHITE BREASTED WATERHEN Amaurornis phoenicurus
Kaziranga: 4 singles
BLACK TAILED CRAKE Amaurornis bicolor
Sangti Valley: min.4
PURPLE SWAMPHEN Porphyrio porphyrio
Okhla: c.400
COMMON MOORHEN Gallinula chloropus
Okhla: c.10 noted - probably many more
EURASIAN COOT Fulica atra
Okhla: 20+ noted, probably many more
BRONZE WINGED JACANA Metopidius indicus
Kaziranga: 6
PACIFIC GOLDEN PLOVER Pluvialis fulva
Kaziranga: 4
LONG BILLED PLOVER Charadrius placidus
Sangti Valley: min.4 (two pairs)
LITTLE RINGED PLOVER Charadrius dubius
Nameri: 2
Kaziranga: 3
RIVER LAPWING Vanellus duvaucelii
Nameri: 6
Kaziranga: 2
GREY HEADED LAPWING Vanellus cinereus
Kaziranga: 5
RED WATTLED LAPWING Vanellus indicus
Okhla: 6
Nameri: 2
Sangti Valley: 4
Kaziranga: up to 10 around Kaziranga each day
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 4 (2+2) on Kaziranga-Guwahati route on 13th
NORTHERN LAPWING Vanellus vanellus
Sangti Valley: 2
Kaziranga: 25+ in area
WHITE TAILED LAPWING Vanellus leucurus
Okhla: 1
PINTAIL SNIPE Gallinago stenura
Kaziranga: 6 in rice fields adjacent to Jupuri Ghar lodge
COMMON SNIPE Gallinago gallinago
Kaziranga: day counts of 8 and 10
BLACK TAILED GODWIT Limosa limosa
Okhla: 300+
COMMON REDSHANK Tringa totanus
Kaziranga: 1 in park
SPOTTED REDSHANK Tringa erythropus
Kaziranga: 8 on 11th, 15 on 12th
GREENSHANK Tringa nebularia
Nameri: 2 by Jia Bhareli river
Kaziranga: 8 on 11th and 6 on 12th
MARSH SANDPIPER Tringa stagnatilis
Kaziranga: 1 in park
GREEN SANDPIPER Tringa ochropus
Nameri: 3 Jia Bhareli river
Kaziranga: 3 both days in Park
WOOD SANDPIPER Tringa glareola
Okhla: 3
Kaziranga: singles both days in Park
COMMON SANDPIPER Actitis hypoleucos
Nameri: 3 Jia Bhareli river
Kaziranga: 1 in Park
TEMMINCK’S STINT Calidris temminckii
Kaziranga: 1 distant bird
[flock of c.30 stints at Okhla too distant to identify]
IBISBILL Ibidorhyncha struthersii
Nameri: 2 on Jia Bhareli river
Dirang: 5 (3+2) along Dirang river
BLACK WINGED STILT Himantopus himantopus
Okhla: 20+
PIED AVOCET Recurvirostris avocetta
Okhla: 20
Kaziranga: 7
SMALL PRATINCOLE Glareola lactea
Nameri: 100+ along Jia Bhareli river
CASPAIN GULL Larus cachinnans
Okhla: 10
BROWN HEADED GULL Larus brunnicephalus
Okhla: c.10
BLACK HEADED GULL Larus ridibundus
Okhla: 300+
INDIAN RIVER TERN Sterna aurantia
Nameri: 10 along Jia Bhareli river
Kaziranga: day counts of 20 and 10
ROCK DOVE / FERAL PIGEON Columba livia
Occasional small flocks in towns; large numbers around Delhi
SNOW PIGEON Columba leuconota
Dirang towards Sela Pass: two flocks (total 22) below Baisakhi Army Camp on 3rd
ORIENTAL TURTLE DOVE Streptopelia orientalis
Nameri: 1
Sangti Valley - Mandala Road: total 8 (singles/2s)
Kaziranga: 6
SPOTTED DOVE Streptopelia chinensis
Guwahati-Nameri route: frequent sightings of 2s/3s along this route
Nameri: small numbers
Nameri-Dirang route: occasional sightings of 2s/3s along this route
Sessni - Kaziranga route: small numbers (10 recorded) along approach route to Kaziranga
Kaziranga: common around Kaziranga (day counts of 30 and 20)
RED COLLARED DOVE Streptopelia tranquebarica
Kaziranga: 1 in Park on 11th
EURASIAN COLLARED DOVE Streptopelia decaocto
Delhi-Okhla: small numbers (2s/4s) on outskirts of Delhi and at Okhla
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 on approach to Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 1 at Kaziranga on 11th and 2 on 12th
LAUGHING DOVE Streptopelia senegalensis
Okhla: 2
BARRED CUCKOO DOVE Macropygia unchall
Bompu-Sessni areas: occasional sightings of singles/twos (2-4 each day)
YELLOW FOOTED GREEN PIGEON Treron phoenicoptera
Okhla: 10+
Kaziranga: fairly common around park (day counts of 40 and 20+)
WEDGE TAILED GREEN PIGEON Treron curvirosta
Nameri: 3
Sessni area: 2
GREEN IMPERIAL PIGEON Ducula aenea
Nameri: total 20 on 31st
Sessni - Kaziranga route: small numbers (total 20) along this route
Kaziranga: 3 Kaziranga on 12th
MOUNTAIN IMPERIAL PIGEON Ducula badia
Sessni area: 1 on 10th
ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET Psittacula eupatria
Kaziranga: two small flocks (4+6) in park on 10th
ROSE RINGED PARAKEET Psittacula krameri
Delhi-Okhla: Common around Delhi with c.100 counted on route to Okhla
Sessni - Kaziranga route: flock of 6 on route towards Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: small flocks common in and around Kaziranga, day counts 30+
RED BREASTED PARAKEET Psittacula alexandri
Nameri: day counts 20+
Kaziranga: common in park, day counts 50+ and 30+
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: two flocks (8+7) along this route Kaziranga on 13th
VERNAL HANGING PARROT Loriculus vernalis
Nameri: 5+ on 31st
LARGE HAWK CUCKOO Hierococcyx sparvariodes
Kaziranga: 1 on 12th
GREEN BILLED MALKOHA Phaenicophaeus tristis
Nameri: 2 singles
Kaziranga: singles in park on 11th and 12th
GREATER COUCAL Centropus sinensis
Okhla: 1
Kaziranga: 3-4 in park both days
COLLARED OWLET Glaucidium brodiei
Nameri: 1 seen, another heard
Bhalukpong-Dirang route: 1 seen
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 seen along Mandala road
Lama and Bompu areas: frequently heard in these areas; 1 seen on 8th
ASIAN BARRED OWLET Glaucidium cuculoides
Guwahati-Nameri route: 1 seen
Nameri: 2 singles near Nameri Eco Camp on 30th and singles on 31st and 1st
Sangti Valley: 1 seen above Sangti Valley on 1st
Sessni area: 1 seen by Sessni camp on 10th
Kaziranga: 2 singles in Kaziranga park on 11th, 1 seen plus 1 heard on 12th
SPOTTED OWLET Athene brama
Kaziranga: 2 on 11th
HIMALAYAN SWIFTLET Collocalia brevirostris
Guwahati-Nameri route: occasional flocks totalling c.50 on 30th
Nameri: frequently seen (“numerous”) on 31st
ASIAN PALM SWIFT Cypsiurus balasiensis
Guwahati-Nameri route: occasional sightings of 3s/4s
Nameri: common in area
LITTLE (House) SWIFT Apus affinis
Okhla: small numbers (10-12)
Guwahati-Nameri route: occasional sightings, total c.10, along this route
RED HEADED TROGON Harpactes erythrocephalus
Bhalukpong-Dirang route: 1 ♂
Sessni area: single ♂♂ seen in different areas on three days at Sessni (and another bird calling on 9th)
COMMON KINGFISHER Alcedo atthis
Guwahati-Nameri route: 2 singles
Nameri: 5 singles
STORK BILLED KINGFISHER
Halcyon capensis
Kaziranga: 3 in park on 11th
WHITE THROATED KINGFISHER Halcyon smyrnensis
Delhi-Okhla: 5
Guwahati-Nameri route: 10 along this route
Nameri: 2
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 2 seen on approach to Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: up to 4 in Park area each day
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 5 singles on 13th
CRESTED KINGFISHER Megaceryle lugubris
Nameri: 1 by Jia Bhareli river
Dirang: 3 (2+1) in Dirang area
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 1 between Dirang and Bomdila on 4th
PIED KINGFISHER Ceryle rudis
Nameri: 6 along Jia Bhareli
Kaziranga: 10 in park on 11th, 5 on 12th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 3 singles on 13th
BLUE BEARDED BEE EATER Nyctornis athertoni
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: 1 on edge of Panbari forest on 12th
(Little) GREEN BEE EATER Merops orientalis
Okhla: Min.2 at Okhla
Guwahati-Nameri route: 6 along Guwahati-Nameri route
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 northwest of Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 1 in Kaziranga on 11th
INDIAN ROLLER Coracias benghalensis
Guwahati-Nameri route: 6+ along this route
Nameri: 3 in camp area
Kaziranga: very common, 8 along approach route 10th, 25 in Park area on 11th, min.20 on 12th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 4 singles on 13th
HOOPOE Upupa epops
Kaziranga: 1 near Park entrance (Kohora) on 11th
ORIENTAL PIED HORNBILL Anthracoceros albirostris
Kaziranga: 5 (3+2) on 11th, heard only on 12th
GREAT PIED HORNBILL Buceros bicornis
Nameri: total 6 (group of 5 + single)
Kaziranga: 2 singles west of Kaziranga and 23 coming in to roost above Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th, 1 seen with Oriental Pied (Anthracoceros albirostris) in Park on 12th
RUFOUS NECKED HORNBILL Aceros nipalensis
Bompu-Sessni areas: min.2 birds seen over three days (1 ♂ on 7th, pair on 8th; 1 seen, 1 heard 9th, 2 seen 10th)
WREATHED HORNBILL Aceros undulatus
Nameri: 2 (?4) - 2 over Jia Bhareli river on 31st and 2 perched birds 1st Feb
GREAT BARBET Megalaima virens
Bhalukpong-Dirang route: 2 singles
Dirang-Mandala route: 3 (2+1) along Mandala road
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 14 feeding in a fruiting tree east of Dirang
Bompu-Sessni areas: common around Bompu and Sessni with up to 6 sightings daily, frequently heard
LINEATED BARBET Megalaima lineata
Nameri: highest day count was 6, more often heard
Sessni area: 6+ on 9th, 4 on 10th
Kaziranga: very common in this area with c.10 seen on 11th and 15+ recorded on 12th
GOLDEN THROATED BARBET Megalaima franklinii
Bompu-Sessni areas: 1 seen at Bompu; frequent at Sessni - highest day count 6
BLUE THROATED BARBET Megalaima asiatica
Nameri: 3-4 each day
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 2 well below Sessni
Kaziranga: 5 seen on 12th
COPPERSMITH BARBET Megalaima haemacephala
Kaziranga: fairly common, frequently heard and 3 seen together in fruiting tree on edge of town
GREY CAPPED PYGMY WOODPECKER Dendrocopos canicapillus
Nameri: 4 (two pairs)
Kaziranga: 2 in Kaziranga
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 1 at roadside stop near Nagaon town on 13th
DARJEELING WOODPECKER Dendrocopos darjellensis
Bompu: Singles on two days
CRIMSON BREASTED WOODPECKER Dendrocopos cathpharius
Lama and Bompu areas: 1-3 sightings per day around Lama and Bompu (not at Sessni
LESSER YELLOWNAPE Picus chlorophus
Nameri: 2 singles
GREATER YELLOWNAPE Picus flavinucha
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: 1 at edge of Panbari forest on 12th
STREAK THROATED WOODPECKER Picus xanthopygaeus
Kaziranga: 2 singles
GREY HEADED WOODPECKER Picus canus
Kaziranga: 1 only
BLACK RUMPED FLAMEBACK Dinopium benghalense
Kaziranga: 1 seen, others heard
GREATER FLAMEBACK Chrysocolaptes lucidus
Nameri: 1
Kaziranga: 6
BAY WOODPECKER Blythipicos pyrrhotis
Lama-Bompu-Sessni areas: Fairly common, heard daily and singles seen on 5 days
LONG TAILED BROADBILL Psarisomus dalhousiae
Sessni: brief view of 1 (calling then in flight) on 9th
BENGAL (Rufous winged) BUSHLARK Mirafra assamica
Kaziranga: 4 in Park on 11th
SAND LARK Calandrella raytal
Nameri: 2 by Jia Bhareli river on 31st
PLAIN MARTIN Riparia paludicolor
Okhla: 50+
Nameri: very common along Jia Bhareli river
Kaziranga: hundreds around Park
EURASIAN CRAG MARTIN Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Nameri-Dirang route: 2
BARN SWALLOW Hirundo rustica
Okhla: 50+
Guwahati-Nameri route: common along this route
Nameri: common
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 50+ noted along route towards Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: hundreds around Kaziranga
NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN Delichon nipalensis
Sangti Valley: 60+ over rice fields in valley
WHITE WAGTAIL Motacilla alba
Race alboides Nameri to Dirang; both alboides and leucopsis around Kaziranga
Nameri: 10 (race alboides) on 31st
Dirang: 1 (race alboides) on 1st
Dirang / Sangti Valley area: 3 on 2nd and 3 on 3rd (all race alboides)
Jupuri Ghar Lodge (Kaziranga): 2 (leucopsis) at Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th, 3 leucopsis and 2 alboides on 11th
Kaziranga: common around Kaziranga and Park on 12th, mostly leucopsis with 4 or 5 alboides
CITRINE WAGTAIL Motacilla citreola
Guwahati-Nameri route: 2 at the rubbish tip
Kaziranga: 6 in Park on 11th
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL Motacilla flava
Okhla: 10+
GREY WAGTAIL Motacilla cinerea
Sangti Valley: c.10 on 2nd
Dirang: 1 near Dirang on 4th
OLIVE BACKED PIPIT Anthus hodgsonii
Nameri: 2 on 31st
Nameri-Dirang route: 4 on 1st
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 2 on 3rd
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 2 on 4th
Lama and Bompu areas: total 10 on 6th
Bompu area: 11 on 7th
Bompu-Sessni areas: 8 between Bompu and Sessni on 8th
Sessni area: 6 on 9th
ROSY PIPIT Anthus roseatus
Kaziranga: c.5 in park on 11th, 50+ on 12th
LARGE CUCKOO SHRIKE Coracina macei
Kaziranga: 3 Kaziranga area on 12th
LONG TAILED MINIVET Pericrocotus ethologus
Nameri: c.20 on 31st
Kaziranga: 4-5 with Scarlet P.flammeus in Kaziranga on 12th
SCARLET MINIVET Pericrocotus flammeus
Sessni area: c. 10 with Grey chinned P.solaris at Sessni on 9th
Kaziranga: 4-5 with Long tailed P.ethologus in Kaziranga on 12th
GREY CHINNED MINIVET Pericrocotus solaris
Sessni area: c.10 with Scarlet P.flammeus on 9th
STRIATED BULBUL Pycnonotus striatus
Bompu area: 1 on 7th
Sessni area: 11 on 8th, 22 on 9th and 2 on 10th
BLACK CRESTED BULBUL Pycnonotus melanicterus
Nameri: 3 on 31st
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 3 south of Sessni on 10th
RED WHISKERED BULBUL Pycnonotus jocosus
Nameri: common
Nameri-Dirang route: occasional sightings (total c.10) on 1st
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 20 on route towards Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: common around Kaziranga in small numbers
RED VENTED BULBUL Pycnonotus cafer
Common around Delhi, Guwahati and smaller towns
Nameri: 10+ at Nameri on 31st
Nameri-Dirang route: 12
Dirang-Mandala route: 10 along Mandala road
Sangti Valley: c.6 around valley on 3rd
Dirang-Lama Camp route: small numbers 4th
Kaziranga: 20 around Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th; 10+ in Kaziranga on both 11th and 12th
WHITE THROATED BULBUL Alophoixus flaveolus
Nameri: 1 seen on 31st, others heard
MOUNTAIN BULBUL Hypsipetes indica
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 6 on 4th
Bompu area: 5 on 7th
BLACK BULBUL Hypsipetes leucocephalus
Guwahati-Nameri route: frequent sightings on 30th (c.55 total)
Nameri: abundant around Nameri with many flocks of 50+
Nameri-Dirang route: several large flocks of 50-100
Dirang-Mandala route: several large flocks of 50-100
Kaziranga: 14 in Park on 11th and 15 on 12th
GOLDEN FRONTED LEAFBIRD Chloropsis aurifrons
Nameri: 2
Bompu-Sessni areas: 1 ♀ between Bompu and Sessni
Bompu: 1 ♂ near Bompu camp
ORANGE BELLIED LEAFBIRD Chloropsis hardwickii
Nameri: 2
Nameri-Dirang route: 1 ♂
Bompu-Sessni areas: 1 ♂ between Bompu and Sessni
Sessni area: 6
Sessni - Kaziranga route: total 10 along route below Sessni on 10th
COMMON IORA Aegithina tiphia
Nameri: 10
Kaziranga: 2
BROWN DIPPER Cinclus pallasii
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 2 singles along this route
WINTER WREN Troglodytes troglodytes
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 2 on 3rd
ALPINE ACCENTOR Prunella collaris
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: total 12 in mixed sp. flocks on 3rd
RUFOUS BREASTED ACCENTOR Prunella strophiata
Dirang-Mandala route: total 4 noted amongst mixed flocks along Mandala road on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: total 7 in mixed flocks on 3rd
MAROON BACKED ACCENTOR Prunella immaculata
Dirang-Mandala route: 4 together 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 2 together on 3rd
Lama area: 4 on 5th
Bompu area: 1 on 7th
Bompu-Sessni areas: total 10 along Bompu-Sessni walk on 8th
Sessni area: 6 on 9th
BLUE ROCK THRUSH Monticola solitarius
Nameri-Dirang route: 3 singles
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 on Mandala road
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1
BLUE WHISTLING THRUSH Myophonus caeruleus
Nameri: 1
Nameri-Dirang route: frequent sightings of singles
Dirang-Mandala route: 3 along Mandala road
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 6
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 3
Kaziranga: 1 by Jupuri Ghar lodge
PLAIN BACKED THRUSH Zoothera mollissima
Nameri-Dirang route: 10
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 8
Lama-Bompu-Sessni areas: fairly common around Lama-Bompu-Sessni with day counts of up to 5
LONG TAILED THRUSH Zoothera dixoni
Bompu-Sessni areas: 1-2 daily
BLACK BREASTED THRUSH Turdus dissimilis
Nameri: 5 (2+3)
Kaziranga: 1 on 11th
WHITE COLLARED BLACKBIRD Turdus albocinctus
Dirang-Mandala route: loose flock of c.12 on Mandala route
ZITTING CISTICOLA Cisticola juncidis
Kaziranga: min.2 in Park on 11th
HILL PRINIA Prinia atrogularis
Sessni area: 2 in Sessni camp on 9th
ASHY PRINIA Prinia socialis
Kaziranga: 1 in Park on 12th
PLAIN PRINIA Prinia inornata
Kaziranga: 1 in Park on 12th
BROWNISH FLANKED BUSH WARBLER Cettia fortipes
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 1 on 4th
THICKBILLED WARBLER Acrocephalus aedon
Nameri: 1 seen and 1 heard on 30th, 1 seen at Nameri on 31st
COMMON TAILORBIRD Orthotomus sutorius
Nameri: 1 seen, others heard, on 31st
Kaziranga: 2 seen in Park on 11th, others heard
CHIFFCHAFF Phylloscopus collybita
Okhla: 1
DUSKY WARBLER Phylloscopus fuscatus
Kaziranga: singles seen in Park on both 11th and 12th
TICKELL’S WARBLER Phylloscopus affinis
Kaziranga: 2 in Park on 11th
ASHY THROATED WARBLER Phylloscopus maculipennis
Dirang-Mandala route: total 5 on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 2 on 3rd
Lama-Bompu-Sessni areas: 1-4 seen each day around Lama-Bompu-Sessni
LEMON RUMPED (Pallas’s) WARBLER Phylloscopus chloronotus
Dirang-Mandala route: 2 along Mandala road on 2nd
YELLOW BROWED WARBLER Phylloscopus inornatus
Nameri: c.6 seen on 31st and others heard
Kaziranga: 1 seen in Park on 12th, others heard
GREENISH WARBLER Phylloscopus trochiloides
Nameri: 2 singles on 31st
Sessni area: 2 on 10th
Kaziranga: heard by us at Kaziranga, seen by other member of group
HUME’S WARBLER Phylloscopus humei
Okhla: Min.2
YELLOW VENTED WARBLER Phylloscopus cantator
Nameri: 2 seen on 31st;
BUFF BARRED WARBLER Phylloscopus pulcher
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 along Mandala road on 2nd
Bompu area: 1 on 7th
HUME'S WHITETHROAT Sylvia althaea
Okhla: 1
GREY HOODED WARBLER Seicercus xanthoschistos
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 along Mandala road on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 on 3rd
Sessni area: 6+ on 8th
WHITE SPECTACLED WARBLER Seicercus affinis
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 along Mandala road on 2nd
Bompu-Sessni areas: 4 on 8th
GREY CHEEKED WARBLER Seicercus poliogenys
Sessni area: 1 on 8th, 2 on 9th and 2 on 10th
CHESTNUT CROWNED WARBLER Seicercus castaniceps
Sessni area: 2 on 8th
YELLOW BELLIED WARBLER Abroscopus supercilliaris
Bhalukpong-Dirang route: 1 along this route
BLACK FACED WARBLER Abroscopus schisticeps
Lama-Bompu-Sessni areas: common in both single sp. and mixed flocks; day counts of 15-3-8-25-10-6
BROAD BILLED WARBLER Tickellia hodgsoni
Bompu area: 1 on 7th
Sessni area: 1 on 10th
STRIATED GRASSBIRD Megalurus palustris
Nameri: Singles seen on 30th and 1st, others heard
Kaziranga: 2+ in Park on 11th
SLATY BACKED FLYCATCHER Ficedula hodgsonii
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: 1 ♀ on 12th
RUFOUS GORGETTED FLYCATCHER Ficedula strophiata
Sangti Valley: 1 ♂
Sessni area: 1 ♂ and 1 ♀ on 9th; 1 ♂ 2 ♀♀ below Sessni on 10th
RED BREASTED (Throated) FLYCATCHER Ficedula parva albicilla
Guwahati-Nameri route: 1
Nameri: 1
Kaziranga: 2 in Kaziranga-Panbari area on 12th
LITTLE PIED FLYCATCHER Ficedula westernanni
Nameri: 2 singles (1 ♂, 1 ♀) on 30th and min.4 on 31st
Kaziranga / Panbari forest /Tea Plantation: 3 ♂♂ on 11th; 2 ♂♂ + 1 ♀ in Kaziranga-Panbari area on 12th
SLATY-BLUE FLYCATCHER Ficedula tricolor
Sangti Valley: 1 ♂ on 2nd
VERDITER FLYCATCHER Eumyias thalassina
Nameri: 1 ♂
Kaziranga: 1 in Kaziranga on 12th
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: 1 edge of Panbari forest on 12th
LARGE NILTAVA Niltava grandis
Nameri: 1 ♀
SMALL NILTAVA Niltava macgrigoriae
Nameri: 1 + 2 ♂♂
Kaziranga: 1 ♂ in grounds of Jupuri Ghar lodge, 1 ♂ in park
RUFOUSE BELLIED NILTAVA Niltava sundara
Nameri: Pair
GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER Culicapa ceylonensis
Nameri: 2 on 30th and 5 on 31st
SIBERIAN RUBYTHROAT Luscinia calliope
Nameri: heard at Nameri (seen by most of the group, glimpsed briefly by us)
RED FLANKED BLUE TAIL (Orange flanked Bush Robin) Tarsiger cyanurus
Nameri-Dirang route: 6
Sangti Valley: 1 ♂
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 3
Lama and Bompu areas: day counts of 3-6
GOLDEN BUSH ROBIN Tarsiger chrysaeus
Dirang-Mandala route: 2 single ♀♀ along Mandala road
WHITE BROWED BUSH ROBIN Tarsiger indicus
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 2 single ♂♂
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 4 singles
Lama area: 3 (2+1) on 5th
RUFOUS BREASTED BUSH ROBIN Tarsiger hyperythrus
Nameri-Dirang route: 2 singles (♂ + ♀)
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 ♂
ORIENTAL MAGPIE ROBIN Copsychus saularis
Okhla: 1
Nameri: 2 on 30th and 1 on 31st
Kaziranga: 4-5 on both 11th and 12th
WHITE RUMPED SHAMA Copsychus malabaricus
Nameri: 1 on 30th, 2 on 31st
Kaziranga: 1 on 11th and 2 on 12th
BLACK REDSTART Phoenicurus ochruros
Sangti Valley: 2 singles seen on both 1st and 2nd
HODGSON’S REDSTART Phoenicurus hodgsoni
Nameri: 1 ♀
Nameri-Dirang route: min.3 ♀♀ and 1 ♂
Dirang / Sangti Valley / Mandala Road route: common in area - max. count of 25 seen on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 4+ along route towards Sela Pass
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 8
Lama area: 1 near Lama camp
BLUE FRONTED REDSTART Phoenicurus frontalis
Nameri-Dirang route: 12
Dirang-Mandala route: 30 along this route on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1
Lama area: 2 singles seen on both 4th and 5th
WHITE THROATED REDSTART Phoenicurus schisticeps
Baisakhi Army Camp area: 6 (4 ♂♂, 2 ♀♀) on open hillside below army camp (route towards Sela Pass)
WHITE CAPPED WATER REDSTART (River Chat) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus
Nameri: 4 by Jia Bhareli river on 31st
Nameri-Dirang route: 4
Sangti Valley: 2 on both 2nd and 3rd
Dirang: 2 east of Dirang on 4th
Lama area: 1 in clearing (small settlement) below Lama camp on 5th
Sessni-Kaziranga Route: 1 on route towards Kaziranga on 10th
PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART Rhyacornis fuliginosus
Nameri: 6 along Jia Bhareli river
Sangti Valley: 3 on 2nd and 2 on 3rd
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 2
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 well below Sessni on 10th
LITTLE FORKTAIL Enicurus scouleri
Sangti Valley: 1
BLACK BACKED FORKTAIL Enicurus immaculatus
Nameri: 4 along Jia Bhareli river
SPOTTED FORKTAIL Enicurus maculatus
Sessni area: poor view of 1 below Sessni on 9th
SIBERIAN STONECHAT Saxicola maurus
Nameri: probably this sp. at Nameri - a few distant views
Sangti Valley: 6 in Sangti valley
Kaziranga: common around Kaziranga with min.10 seen both 11th and 12th
YELLOW BELLIED FANTAIL Rhipidura hypoxantha
Nameri: total 6
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 on Mandala road
Bompu-Sessni areas: 1 along Bompu-Sessni route on 8th
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 2 south of Sessni on 10th
BLACK NAPED MONARCH Hypothymis azurea
Nameri: 2
Kaziranga: 1
LESSER NECKLACED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax monileger
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: poor view of 1 probable amongst Greater Necklaced G.pectoralis at edge of Panbari forest/tea plantation; others in the group had reasonable views.
GREATER NECKLACED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax pectoralis
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: c.10 at edge of Panbari forest plus 10-12 in tea plantation near Kohora on 12th
STRIATED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax striatus
Nameri-Dirang route: 2 on 2nd
Lama-Bompu-Sessni areas: seen daily around Lama-Bompu-Sessni with day counts of 1-6
RUFOUS NECKED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax ruficollis
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: 9 in tea plantation near Kohora on 12th
GREY SIDED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax caerulatus
Bompu area: total 10 on 7th
SPOTTED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax ocellatus
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 3 together on 3rd
Lama area: 2 near Lama camp on 4th
STREAKED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax lineatum
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 7 seen on 3rd
Lama area: 3 on 5th
SCALY LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax subunicolor
Lama area: 2 on 5th
BLUE WINGED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax squamatus
Lama area: 4 on 4th
BLACK FACED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax affinis
Lama area: 2 on 5th
Bompu area: 2 on 7th
Bompu-Sessni areas: 4 between Bompu and Sessni on 8th
CHESTNUT CROWNED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax erythrocephalus
Dirang-Mandala route: total 15 along Mandala road on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 2 on 3rd
Lama area: 2 on 5th
Bompu area: 5 on 7th
Bompu-Sessni areas: 2 on 8th
Sessni area: 2 on 9th
ABBOTT’S BABBLER Malacocincla abbotti
Nameri: 1 on 31st
BUFF BREASTED BABBLER Pellorneum tickelli
Nameri-Dirang route: 1 (?2) on 1st
STREAK BREASTED SCIMITAR BABBLER Pomatorhinus ruficollis
Dirang-Mandala route: 3 along Mandala road on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 3 on 3rd
CORAL BILLED SCIMITAR BABBLER Pomatorhinus ferruginosus
Sessni area: 3 together on 8th; total of 18 on 9th and 2 on 10th
SLENDER BILLED SCIMITAR BABBLER Xiphirhynchus superciliaris
Lama area: 1 seen on 4th
LONG BILLED WREN BABBLER Rimator melacoptilus
Bompu-Sessni areas: 1 on 8th
SCALY BREASTED WREN BABBLER Pnoepyga albiventer
Lama area: 2 together on 5th
RUFOUS THROATED WREN BABBLER Spelaeornis caudatus
Lama area: 2 seen on 5th, others heard on 4th
WEDGE BILLED WREN BABBLER Sphenocichla humei
Sessni area: 1 seen well (others heard nearby) on 8th
RUFOUS CAPPED BABBLER Stachyris ruficeps
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: total 10 on 3rd
Lama area: 6+ on 4th and 4 on 5th
GOLDEN BABBLER Stachyris chrysaea
Sessni area: 4 on 8th and 4 on 9th
STRIPED TIT BABBLER Macronous gularis
Nameri: 2 singles on 31st
STRIATED BABBLER Turdoides earlei
Kaziranga: 1 in Park on 12th
JUNGLE BABBLER Turdoides striatus
Okhla: 3
SILVER EARED MESIA Leiothrix argentauris
Nameri-Dirang route: flock of c.20 on 1st
CUTIA Cutia nipalensis
Bompu area: total 20 in two mixed flocks on 7th
Sessni area: 3 above Sessni on 9th
Sessni - Kaziranga route: total 11 in a few mixed flocks below Sessni on 10th
WHITE BROWED SHRIKE BABBLER Pteruthius flaviscapis
Bompu area: 1 in mixed sp. flock on 7th
GREEN SHRIKE BABBLER Pteruthius xanthochlorus
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 2 on 3rd
BLACK EARED SHRIKE BABBLER Pteruthius melanotis
Sessni area: 2 on 8th and 1 on 9th
RUSTY FRONTED BARWING Actinodura egertoni
Lama area: total 9 on 5th
Bompu-Sessni areas: total 50 along Bompu-Sessni walk on 8th
Sessni area: total 80 in Sessni area on 9th and 15 on 10th
HOARY THROATED BARWING Actinodura nipalensis
Dirang-Mandala route: 3 seen on 2nd may have been hybrid nipalensis x waldeni ??
Dirang-Lama Camp route: total 10 on 4th
STREAK THROATED BARWING Actinodura waldeni
Bompu area: 2 on 6th and 6 on 7th
BLUE WINGED MINLA Minla cyanouroptera
Sessni area: Singles seen on both 9th and 10th
CHESTNUT TAILED MINLA Minla strigula
Dirang-Mandala route: total 8 along Mandala road on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 6 on 3rd
Lama area: 6 on 5th
Bompu area: 40 on 7th
Sessni area: 20 on 8th and 1 on 9th
RED TAILED MINLA Minla ignotincta
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 along Mandala road route on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 along route towards Sela Pass on 3rd
Sessni area: singles at Sessni on 8th and 9th, 3 on10th
YELLOW THROATED FULVETTA Alcippe cinerea
Bompu area: total 40 on 7th
Bompu-Sessni areas: total 35 along Bompu-Sessni walk on 8th
Sessni area: total 30 on 9th and 25 on 10th
RUFOUS WINGED FULVETTA Alcippe castaneceps
Bompu-Sessni areas: 25 along Bompu-Sessni walk on 8th
BROWN THROATED FULVETTA Alcippe ludlowi
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 12 (8+4) on 3rd
NEPAL FULVETTA Alcippe nipalensis
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 10 on 4th
RUFOUS BACKED SIBIA Heterophasia annectans
Sessni area: 3 on 9th and 1 on 10th
BEAUTIFUL SIBIA Heterophasia pulchella
Dirang-Mandala route: 4 (3+1) along Mandala road on 2nd
Lama and Bompu areas: common, with day counts up to 30+
Sessni area: very few around Sessni with only 2 on 9th and 2 on 10th
LONG TAILED SIBIA Heterophasia picaoides
Sessni area: very common: 45 seen on 8th, 50 on 9th and 50+ on 10th
WHITE NAPED YUHINA Yuhina bakeri
Bompu-Sessni areas: total 50 along Bompu-Sessni walk on 8th
Sessni area: 6 on 9th
WHISKERED YUHINA Yuhina flavicollis
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: total 20 in mixed flocks on 3rd
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 6 on 4th
Bompu-Sessni areas: 10 along Bompu-Sessni walk on 8th
Sessni area: total 60 on 9th
STRIPE THROATED YUHINA Yuhina gularis
Dirang-Mandala route: 6 along Mandala road on 2nd
Lama and Bompu areas: common, day counts of 8 to 30+
RUFOUS VENTED YUHINA Yuhina occipitalis
Dirang-Mandala route: 12+ in mixed flocks along Mandala road on 2nd
Sessni area: total 20 on 9th, 30+ on 10th
BLACK CHINNED YUHINA Yuhina nigrimenta
Lama-Bompu-Sessni areas: fairly common with day counts of 1-20
FIRE TAILED MYZORNIS Myzornis pyrrhoura
Bompu area: 2 singles on 7th
BLACK THROATED PARROTBILL Paradoxornis nipalensis
Bompu-Sessni areas: total 20 along Bompu-Sessni walk on 8th
GREATER RUFOUS HEADED PARROTBILL Paradoxornis ruficeps
Sessni area: 1 on 9th, 4 on 10th
BLACK THROATED TIT Aegithalos concinnus
Dirang-Mandala route: c.10 in a mixed sp. flock on 2nd
Dirang-Lama Camp route: 8
Sessni area: 10 on 8th
COAL TIT Parus ater
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: total 12 in mixed flocks on 3rd
GREAT TIT Parus major
Nameri: 1 on 30th and 2 on 31st
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 along Mandala road on 2nd
Kaziranga: 2 in grounds of Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th; 3 Kaziranga area on 11th and 2 on 12th
GREEN BACKED TIT Parus monticolus
Dirang-Mandala route: 20+ amongst mixed sp. flocks along Mandala route on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 with other Parus sp. on 3rd
GREY CRESTED TIT Parus dichrous
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 4 on 3rd
RUFOUS VENTED TIT Parus rubidiventris
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 3 amongst other Parus sp. on 3rd
YELLOW CHEEKED TIT Parus spilonotus
Bompu area: 8 seen on 7th
Bompu-Sessni areas: 2 on the walk from Bompu to Sessni
YELLOW BROWED TIT Sylviparus modestus
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 on 3rd
Lama area: 2 in Lama area on 5th
Sessni area: 1 in Sessni area on 8th
WHITE TAILED NUTHATCH Sitta himalayensis
Lama area: 3 on 5th
Bompu area: 3 on 7th
VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH Sitta frontalis
Nameri: 2 on 31st
WALLCREEPER Tichodroma muraria
Nameri-Dirang route: total 5 on 1st (2 together plus 3 singles)
Dirang: 1 near Dirang on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 on route towards Sela pass on 3rd
RUSTY FLANKED TREECREEPER Certhia nipalensis
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 on 3rd
BAR TAILED TREECREEPER Certhia himalayana
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 seen in same area as Rusty flanked C.nipalensis was probably this sp. Two members of our group got ‘scope views of the tail barring.
PURPLE SUNBIRD Cinnyris asiaticus
Okhla: 1 on approach to Okhla on 29th
MRS GOULD’S SUNBIRD Aethopyga gouldiae
Nameri-Dirang route: 1 ♂ probably this sp. on 1st
Lama area: 1 ♂ in Lama area on 4th and 3 ♂♂ on 5th
Lama and Bompu areas: 2 ♂♂ and 1 ♀ on 6th
Bompu area: 2 ♂♂ 7th
It is possible some of these may have been Green tailed A.nipalensis as not all were checked carefully
GREEN TAILED SUNBIRD Aethopyga nipalensis
Dirang-Mandala route: at least 1 ♂ along Mandala road on 2nd
BLACK THROATED SUNBIRD Aethopyga saturata
Sessni area: at least 1 ♂ and 1 ♀ on 9th and total 4 ♂♂ on 10th
CRIMSON SUNBIRD Aethopyga siparaja
Guwahati-Nameri route: 1 at breakfast stop east of Guwahati
Kaziranga: 1 ♂ at Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th; 1 ♂ in Kaziranga area on 12th
LITTLE SPIDERHUNTER Arachnothera longirostris
Guwahati-Nameri route: 1 at breakfast stop east of Guwahati plus another later in day on 30th
Nameri: 1 on 31st
STREAKED SPIDERHUNTER Arachnothera magna
Nameri: 2 singles on 31st
Sessni area: heard in Sessni area on 10th but not seen
FIRE BREASTED FLOWERPECKER Dicaeum ignipectus
Dirang-Mandala route: 1 ♂ along Mandala road on 2nd
ORIENTAL WHITE EYE Zosterops palpebrosus
Guwahati-Nameri route: 3 (1+2) seen on 30th
Nameri: total c.25 in mixed flocks on 31st
Dirang-Mandala route: 10 in mixed sp. flock along Mandala road on 2nd
Kaziranga: 4 in Kaziranga area on 11th
BLACK HOODED ORIOLE Oriolus xanthornus
Nameri: min.6
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 3 (1+2)
Kaziranga: 3 in park on both 11th and 12th
MAROON ORIOLE Oriolus traillii
Sessni area: 1 ♂ by Sessni camp on 9th
ASIAN FAIRY BLUEBIRD Irene puella
Nameri: 6 (2 pairs and 2 singles)
BROWN SHRIKE Lanius cristatus
Guwahati-Nameri route: 3 singles
Nameri: 2 singles
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 1 south of Sessni on 10th
Guwahati marshland: 1 on Guwahati marsh on 13th
LONG TAILED SHRIKE Lanius schah
Okhla: 1
Guwahati-Nameri route: 4 singles
Nameri: 1
Dirang: 1 on 1st, 3 singles on 2nd (all tricolor)
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 3 along approach route towards Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: counts of 10 on both 11th and 12th
GREY BACKED SHRIKE Lanius rephronotus
Nameri: 2 singles
Kaziranga: counts of 5 in Kaziranga on both 11th and 12th
LARGE WOODSHRIKE Tephrodornis gularis
Nameri: 20
Kaziranga: 12 Kaziranga area on 12th
BLACK DRONGO Dicrurus macrocercus
Okhla: 4
Guwahati-Nameri route: frequent sightings of singles/2s
Nameri: 5+
Dirang: 1
Sessni-Bhalukpong-Kaziranga route: frequently seen on route from Bhalukpong to Kaziranga
Kaziranga: very common
ASHY DRONGO Dicrurus leucephaeus
Sessni area: 1 on 9th and 2 on 10th
Kaziranga: 1 at Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th
BRONZED DRONGO Dicrurus aeneus
Sessni area: 6 in area on 8th and 5+ around Sessni camp on 10th
Kaziranga: c.10 noted around Kaziranga on 12th
LESSER RACKET TAILED DRONGO Dicrurus remifer
Nameri: 1
Bompu-Sessni areas: 1 on Bompu-Sessni walk
HAIR CRESTED (SPANGLED) DRONGO Dicrurus hottentottus
Nameri: common, c.30 seen
Nameri-Dirang route: 1
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 10 noted along route towards Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 4 in park on 12th
GREATER RACKET TAILED DRONGO Dicrurus paradiseus
Sessni area: 1
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 3 singles south of Sessni and 1 near Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 3 Kaziranga area on 12th
ASHY WOODSWALLOW Artamus fuscus
Nameri: 1 only
YELLOW BILLED BLUE MAGPIE Urocissa flavirostris
Baisakhi Army Camp area: 2 singles below army camp
Lama area: 2 seen on 5th, heard only on 7th
COMMON GREEN MAGPIE Cissa chinensis
Sessni area: 2 birds heard above Sessni on 9th and again on 10th (not seen)
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: very brief views of 2 on edge of Panbari forest
RUFOUS TREEPIE Dendrocitta vagabunda
Kaziranga: 6 in park on 11th, 5 on 12th
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 2 singles west of Kaziranga on 13th
EURASIAN NUTCRACKER Nucifraga caryocatactes
Sangti Valley: 5 (2+2+1)
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1
Lama area: 6 on 6th
Bompu area: 1
HOUSE CROW Corvus splendens
Common around Delhi, Guwahati and other towns
Nameri: just a few noted
Sessni - Kaziranga route: a few noted on 10th on approach to Kaziranga
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: small numbers near towns
LARGE BILLED CROW Corvus macrorhynchos
Not specifically identified - Large billed macrorhynchos / Jungle Crow levaillantii
Guwahati-Nameri route: small numbers along this route
Nameri: c.8
Nameri-Dirang route: c.6
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 5-6 noted
Lama area: 4 above Lama Camp on 5th
Sessni - Kaziranga route: frequent sightings of 2s/4s towards Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: frequent sightings of 1-3
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: frequent sightings along road towards Guwahati
SPOT WINGED STARLING Saroglossa spiloptera
Nameri: common in small numbers (6-10) amongst mixed flocks
Kaziranga: many hundreds around Kaziranga in flowering Bombax trees
COMMON HILL MYNA Gracula religiosa
Nameri: 4 on 30th and 10 on 31st
Nameri-Dirang route: c.8
Kaziranga: 2 west of Kaziranga on 13th
ASIAN PIED STARLING Sturnus contra
Delhi-Okhla: hundreds at Okhla and outskirts of Delhi
Guwahati-Nameri route: 30+
Nameri: 1 only
Sessni - Kaziranga route: 10 (4+6) along route towards Kaziranga on 10th
Kaziranga: 30+ each day
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: frequent sightings of small flocks (6-10) along Kaziranga-Guwahati route on 13th
CHESTNUT TAILED STARLING Sturnus malabaricus
Guwahati-Nameri route: 1 at breakfast stop north east of Guwahati
Nameri: 30+ seen on 31st
Sessni area: 2 well south Sessni on 10th
Kaziranga: 3 at Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th, frequent flocks of 6-20 (total 60+) in flowering Bombax trees in Park
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: 7 near Nagaon town on 13th
COMMON STARLING Sturnus vulgaris
Okhla: 20+
WHITE VENTED MYNA Acridotheres cinereus
Kaziranga: 2 in grounds of Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th; 15+ in Park on 11th
JUNGLE MYNA Acridotheres fuscus
Nameri: 2 pairs on 30th and c.6 on 31st
Kaziranga: common in the area
Kaziranga-Guwahati route: very common
BANK MYNA Acridotheres ginginianus
Delhi-Okhla: fairly common
Guwahati-Nameri route: fairly common
COMMON MYNA Acridotheres tristis
Very common around Delhi, Guwahati and other towns, also cultivations.
A few at Nameri.
HOUSE SPARROW Passer domesticus
Common around Delhi, Guwahati and other towns
RUSSET SPARROW Passer rutilans
Sangti Valley: 5 (2 + 3) on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: total 10 on 3rd
EURASIAN TREE SPARROW Passer montanus
Guwahati-Nameri: 1 noted in small town on route to Nameri on 30th
Nameri-Dirang route: c.50 in Bomdila
Dirang: 10+ on 2nd
Dirang-Lama Camp route: total 25 on 4th
Kaziranga: c.5 around Jupuri Ghar lodge and small numbers in Kohora town
BAYA WEAVER Ploceus philippinus
Kaziranga: 8 in park on 11th and 6 on 12th
FINN’S WEAVER Ploceus megarhynchos
Kaziranga: 2 in park on 11th
RED AVADAVAT Amandava amandava
Okhla: 12
SCALY BREASTED MUNIA Lonchura punctulata
Guwahati-Nameri route: 5 at breakfast stop north east of Guwahati on 31st
PLAIN MOUNTAIN FINCH Leucosticte nemoricola
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: flock of 6 on 3rd
BLANFORD’S ROSEFINCH Carpodacus rubescens
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: total 25+ in two areas along this route 3rd
Lama and Bompu areas: 4 on 6th
DARK BREASTED ROSEFINCH Carpodacus nipalensis
Baisakhi Army Camp area: 12 in mixed finch flock below army camp on 3rd
Lama area: 1 ♂ on 4th and 6 on 5th
Lama and Bompu areas: c.6 on 6th
Sessni area: 4 on 9th
COMMON ROSEFINCH Carpodacus erythrinus
Baisakhi Army Camp area: 1 ♂ with other finches below army camp on 3rd
DARK RUMPED ROSEFINCH Carpodacus edwardsii
Lama area: 1 ♀ on 4th and flock of 6 on 5th
WHITE BROWED ROSEFINCH Carpodacus thura
Baisakhi Army Camp area: 10 with other finches below army camp on 3rd
YELLOW BREASTED (Himalayan) GREENFINCH Carduelis spinoides
Dirang: 2 by Pameling hotel on 2nd
Dirang-Lama Camp route: total 20 on 4th
RED HEADED BULLFINCH Pyrrhula erythrocephala
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 ♀ with Grey headed P.erythraca on 3rd
Lama and Bompu areas: 1 ♂ with Grey headed P.erythraca 6th
Bompu area: 1 ♀ with Grey headed P.erythraca on 7th
GREY HEADED BULLFINCH Pyrrhula erthraca
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 11 on 3rd
Lama area: 4 on 4th and 14 on 5th
Lama and Bompu areas: 20 on 6th
Bompu area: 30 on 7th
GOLD NAPED FINCH Pyrrhoplectes epauletta
Dirang-Mandala route: 2 sub-adult ♂♂ along Mandala road on 2nd
Route Dirang towards Sela Pass: 1 ♂ and 1 ♀ on 3rd
Lama area: 2 ♀♀ on 5th
SCARLET FINCH Haematospiza sipahi
Sessni area: 2 ♂♂ and 1 ♀ on 9th
LITTLE BUNTING Emberiza pusilla
Sangti Valley: 3 on 2nd
The following species were HEARD ONLY by K and M Claydon
RUFOUS THROATED HILL PARTRIDGE Arborphila rufogularis
Bompu-Sessni areas: heard frequently but none seen
GREY PEACOCK PHEASANT Polyplectron bicalcaratum
Bompu-Sessni areas: heard often but none seen
BLUE EARED BARBET Megalaima australis
Panbari Forest / Tea Plantations: 1 heard by Panbari forest, not seen
BLUE NAPED PITTA Pitta nipalensis
Kohora (Kaziranga) Tea Plantations: heard twice at tea plantation east of Kohora (Kaziranga) - not seen
CHESTNUT HEADED TESIA Tesia castameocoronata
Sessni area: 2 heard by us, seen by others in group
WHITE THROATED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax albogularis
Lama area: heard on 5th but not seen
WHITE CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH Garrulax leucolophus
Sessni area: heard on 8th and 9th but not seen
LARGE SCIMITAR BABBLER Pomatorhinus hyperleucos
Sessni area: heard on 10th (responded to tape) but not seen
There was an unidentified Nightjar sp. at dusk in grounds of Jupuri Ghar lodge on 10th
Additional species recorded by other members of the group but not by K and M Claydon
GADWALL Okhla Anas strepera
EMERALD DOVE Chalcophaps indica Panbari/Tea Plantation
BLOSSOM HEADED PARAKEET Psittacula roseata Nameri
WARD’S TROGON Harpactes wardi Lama
FULVOUS BREASTED WOODPECKER Dendrocopos macei Nameri
RED RUMPED SWALLOW Hirundo daurica Kaziranga
BLACK WINGED CUCKOOSHRIKE Coracina melaschistos Sessni
SCALY THRUSH Zoothera dauma Nameri
SAPPHIRE FLYCATCHER Ficedula sapphira Nameri
BLUETHROAT Luscinia svecica Kaziranga
WHITE THROATED FANTAIL Rhipidura albicollis Lama and Sessni
BROWN ROCK CHAT Cercomela fusca Delhi
SCALY THRUSH Zoothera dauma Nameri
RED FACED LIOCICHLA Liocichla phoenicea Sessni
BUGUN LIOCICHLA Liocichla bugunorum Lama
EYEBROWED WREN BABBLER Napothera epilepidota Sessni
BLACK HEADED SHRIKE BABBLER Pteruthius rufiventer Bompu
RUFOUS FRONTED TIT Aegithalos iouschistos Dirang-Lama route
SULTAN TIT Melanochlora sultanea Nameri
CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTHATCH Sitta castanea Nameri
BEAUTIFUL NUTHATCH Sitta formosae Sessni
COLLARED TREEPIE Dendrocitta frontalis Bompu and Sessni
PINK BROWED ROSEFINCH Carpodacus rodochrous Below Baisakhi Army Camp
MAMMALS species seen/heard by K & M Claydon only
HOOLOCK GIBBON Bunopithecus hoolock Heard at Panbari forest, not seen
RHESUS MACAQUE Macaca mulatta Small numbers along Guwahati-Nameri and Kaziranga-Guwahati routes; a few around Kaziranga
ASSAMESE MACAQUE Macaca assamensis Just 1♂ identified as this sp. south of Sessni (other possibles)
CAPPED LANGUR Trachypithecus pileatus 10 at Nameri; c.15 in tea gardens at edge of Panbari forest
SWAMP DEER Cervus duvaucelii Common in Kaziranga park
INDIAN MUNTJAC Muntiacus muntjak Only 1 seen, at Nameri
HOG DEER Axis porcinus Very common around Kaziranga park
ASIATIC WILD BUFFALO Bubalus arnee Common in Kaziranga park
WILD BOAR Sus scrofa 1 at Nameri
ASIAN ELEPHANT Elaphus maximus 2 singles in Kaziranga (1♀ 1♂); also heard in forest below Sessni and Panbari forest
ONE HORNED RHINOCEROS Rhinoceros unicornis Common Kaziranga, 3 on 10th, 14 on 11th, >20 on 12th
SMOOTH COATED OTTER Lutrogale perspicillata Two groups (3+2) in Kaziranga park
MALAYAN GIANT SQUIRREL Ratufa bicolor 2 together near ?Khelong (route Sessni to Kaziranga)
FIVE STRIPED PALM SQUIRREL Funambulus pennantii Several seen around Delhi
HIMALAYAN STRIPED SQUIRREL Tamiops macclellandi Frequent in forested areas
ORANGE BELLIED HIMALAYAN SQUIRREL Dremomys lokriah (or possibly Dremomys pernyi or D.rufigenis)Frequent sightings of probably this sp. in forested areas
HOARY BELLIED HIMALAYAN SQUIRREL Callosciurus pygerythrus Frequent sightings in forested areas
INDIAN FLYING FOX (FRUIT BAT) Pteropus giganteus Large colony in village tree west of Kaziranga
SIGNS of mammals
YELLOW THROATED MARTEN Martes flavigula Frequent tracks and droppings Lama-Bompu-Sessni
PORCUPINE (?Himalayan Crestless?) Hystrix ?brachyura Quill found in Bompu-Sessni area, also footprints
UNIDENTIFIED “CAT” SP. Tracks of a medium-sized cat in snow across Eaglenest Pass
UNIDENTIFIED LARGE “DEER” SP. Tracks and droppings of large deer species below Bompu