Madagascar 2007: 25th August to 15th September

Madagascar 2007: 25^th August to 15^th September
 
Late Spring 2007 saw a planned birding trip to West Africa fall apart, due to a combination of flight connection difficulties and a distinct lack of committed participants; when the possibility of Madagascar as an alternative destination was mooted, the response was very different! The mere mention of this mysterious land of baobabs, lemurs and ground-rollers instantly instigated enough interest to make the proposition viable and after intensive debate with Callan Cohen of Birding Africa (www.birdingafrica.com) the itinerary of a three-week tour was finalised. Birding Africa would coordinate the ground arrangements on our behalf, but use local guides and agents to minimise costs as much as possible.
 
The dates of our tour, early in the Austral Spring, would theoretically miss wet weather in the humid eastern forests and also birding saturation during the peak October/November visiting period, but would be something of a risk; they would, however, ensure that we were able to secure the use of the best local guides and most convenient accommodation, an essential factor if the trip was to be a success. An early-season commencement date was on the borderline of the calling period for some of the main target species, and therefore the excitement of visiting this amazing destination was slightly tempered by pangs of trepidation when we arrived at Antananarivo on a dull and surprisingly cool late-August morning.
 
Saturday 25^th August
It is still dark when our 10Ω-hour flight is concluded at Antananarivo Airport, set at the nationís capital which is invariably abbreviated to ëTanaí. Andy Deighton, Andy Bunting, Simon Colenutt, Sarah Astman, Volkert van der Willigen and I have previously rendezvoused at Paris Charles de Galle Airport to connect with an Air Madagascar Boeing 767.
 
Just before 05.00 we are greeted by Rija Ratotonirina, a constantly smiling and instantly likeable young Malagasy who is brimming with enthusiasm and fluent in the English, French and various local dialects which are necessary to make travel in Madagascar a viable proposition. Rija is set to be our bird, mammal and reptile expert, transport and accommodation organiser, interpreter and ultimately firm friend over the next three weeks.
 
Euros are changed to Ariary at the airport, making us instant millionaires, before we board a minibus for a short ride through Tanaís suburbs to the Hotel Tonga Soa. Bags are hastily dumped, revitalising strong coffee consumed and Madagascar Fody ticked, before we head out for an introduction to the Malagasy avifauna. Although we plan to pull in some birding, today is actually a bonus day; airline schedules mean that we cannot rendezvous with Martin Kennewellís Singapore flight until Saturday evening so we have some hours to kill in the vicinity of Tana.
 
It is overcast and decidedly chilly, with a fleece being the order of the morning. Our route takes us through busy streets, where shoppers throng around roadside vegetable stalls. First destination is the nearby Lake Andranotapahina, a large expanse of water in a valley bottom, crossed by two road-bearing causeways and bordered by residential suburbs.
 
Bird-life is not exactly abundant, for obvious reasons, but an array of common endemics are soon amassed around the lakeís vegetated margins and scrubby dry grassland beyond. Madagascar Wagtail, Mascarene Martin, Madagascar Swamp-Warbler, Madagascar Kingfisher and Madagascar Munia are all noted at the waterís edge, where unconcerned Baillonís Crakes also feed. Drier areas support ëMadagascaní African Stonechats S. t. sibilla, Madagascar Brush-Warbler, Madagascar Cisticola and Madagascar Lark. Overhead Madagascar Bee-Eaters and Madagascar Kestrels hunt and an occasional Dimorphic Egret passes by; itís genuinely difficult to find a bird without a ëMadagascarí prefix!
 
Next stop is Lake Alarobia, just twenty minutes drive away. This is a very strange site, consisting of two relatively small water bodies with a wooded margin, surrounded by a high protective wall and hemmed in on all sides by Tanaís sprawl of development. Surprisingly, wildfowl find this site to their liking, presumably because they have nowhere else to go, and the waters are literally teeming with ducks and herons. Comb Duck, Red-billed Teal and White-faced Whistling-Ducks crowd the waterís surface while Black Herons, Dimorphic and Cattle Egret fight for space on the small islands. New birds are found in the form of Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar White-Eye and Madagascar Bulbul, though a pair of duetting White-throated Rails fail to leave their reedbed hiding place. Although Alarobia has been a site for Mellerís Duck in the past there have been no recent records of a bird that is now so scarce that no reliable sites exist on the standard Malagasy birding circuit.
 
Early in the afternoon we return to the Hotel Tonga Soa for lunch, which is followed by a brief siesta. Late pm birding options are limited so we take a walk through the dusty red streets to a rather barren lake, where a couple of Madagascar Swifts are the only birds of note. Conglomerations of shanty huts and tattered washing hanging on lines bring home the poverty which is part of everyday life in this sadly deprived country, though here as everywhere children make the best of what they have and we are taken by the ingenuity of a ëSubbuteoí game being played out on a red dirt pitch with bottle-top players.
 
Returning to our hotel at dusk we are able to shut the door on the poverty and dine on superb French cuisine, emphasising what a country of contrasts, in terms of standards of living, Madagascar proves to be.
 
Sunday 26^th August
At an early hour a cheery MK bursts into our room, confirming the successful rendezvous of the entire team. We have an 07.30 flight booked to Tulear in the dry southwest of the Country, where we will finally begin the trip in earnest. Air Madagascar efficiently flies us out of Tana, over a depressingly brown, treeless and erosion-scarred landscape, to deliver us at the tiny Tulear Airport after just an hour in the air.
 
Following a scrum for our baggage we find that a spacious and very comfortable bus lies at our disposal, which is very well received as it will be our home for a large part of the next nine days. Travelling north, we first have to negotiate the crowded streets of Tulear, where roadside stalls are piled high with French bread, and multicoloured hand-rickshaws zigzag around pedestrians. Paired Zebu, the local hump-backed, long-horned cattle, pull wooden carts and there are actually very few motor vehicles, an indicator of the abject poverty which clearly predominates in this Country.
 
Temperatures have increased dramatically since leaving Tana and although it is still early morning, the sun is fiercely hot in a clear blue sky. After around 25km the tarmac gives way to a potholed dirt road and progress slows dramatically, as we wind our way through low thorn scrub and past an occasional saline pool. Roadside villages consist of groups of thatched wooden huts whose owners are of African descent; here the Dark Continent is just 400km away across the Mozambique Channel.
 
A brief stop at a river crossing produces our first Humblotís Heron, and a speculative check of a saline pool finds Sub-desert Brush-Warbler plus Kittlitzís and Three-banded Plovers, though not the desired Madagascar Plover. Crested Drongo is another new endemic, and we finally get to see a member of one of the Islandís five endemic families when a Chabertís Vanga appears.
 
Just south of Ifaty the dirt road cuts across to a bright turquoise sea, which is bordered by broad mudflats at low tide and a narrow fringe of mangroves. Dozens of local people are out on the mudflats collecting shellfish, but a quieter area finally provides the first of the dayís real target birds, Madagascar Plover. Five individuals are counted, and feed close to Kittlitzís Plovers to provide good comparison. Madagascar Plover has a tiny range on the southwest coast, where human disturbance is a major threat. Stripe-throated Jery and Madagascar Magpie-Robin are also seen, plus several colonies of Sakalava Weavers which include some impressive yellow-headed individuals.
 
We leave the coast road at a signpost for Le Paradisier Hotel, where a track cuts towards the sea through a block of remnant Spiny Forest. A Running Coua lives up to itís name and sprints off into the undergrowth to effectively avoid our pursuit, though the first Souimanga Sunbird of the trip is much more obliging.
 
Le Paradisier Hotel is an amazingly luxurious establishment, with dining room and swimming pool overlooking a beach of white coral sand and the sea beyond. Thatched two-storey chalets have similarly amazing views, being linked to the main complex by a system of paved trails running through the dry coastal scrub. A suitably magnificent 3-course meal is consumed, though to be frank we find it all rather excessive for our humble bird-trip needs and furthermore the French owner proves to be a rather obnoxious character; the overall recommendation is to save some money and stop elsewhere!
 
After a brief siesta during the stiflingly hot midday period we reconvene by the bus at 15.00, for the very exciting prospect of some true Spiny Forest birding. Beside the Le Paradisier car park a Common Big-eyed Snake Mimophis mahfalensis is cornered, rearing up in miniature cobra-like displeasure, though thankfully it is deemed to be harmless by Rija.
 
For thirty minutes we follow the potholed coast road north, via the dusty conglomeration of huts that form Ifaty. After disembarking at the roadside, a little way north of Ifaty, we follow a 300m track through soft red sand to the beginning of a large block of pristine Spiny Forest. A large sign above the gate informs us that we have reached ëReniala, Foret de Baobabsí, and we are greeted by an enthusiastic group of guides.
 
Neat trails have been cut through the dry forest, with the red sand pathways being lined with stone markers. It is all clearly a well-rehearsed operation, as the four guides who accompany us are clearly aware of our target birds and rapidly set off into the forest to locate them! The habitat through which we walk must rate as one of the most unique and bizarre on the planet. Strange Octopus Trees push up winding spindly tendrils into the blue sky, each laden with an armoury of fierce protective spines. Various baobab species are regular features, some of huge proportions with grotesquely bloated trunks lifting disproportionately small clumps of branches high above our heads. Another surprising characteristic over this dry environment is the grey lichen which hangs from exposed branches, presumably a product of the occasional blast of moisture-laden sea-air depositing condensation on the coastal vegetation.
 
Fanning out through the forest to locate our quarry, the guides can be heard shouting and whistling to communicate amongst the dense vegetation. After just ten minutes, more-frantic contact calls signal that something exciting is about to happen, and we find ourselves shepherded to a particular area of dense bushes. Taking to our hands and knees we find that a Long-tailed Ground-Roller is hemmed in between the guides and us, and sits in quiet submission below the bushes. This all comes as quite a shock, being so far-removed from any form of ëbirdingí that we have ever experienced before. It is obvious, however, that this is all normal procedure here as the guides are clearly expert at finding and ëpresentingí birds to visitors.
 
Ethics aside, the Ground-Roller looks fairly unperturbed by the whole experience and sits quietly as we study and photograph his every detail at close range. Discrete and intricately marked ëwryneck-colouredí upperparts contrast with a broad white moustachial stripe and beautiful sky-blue wing coverts. Sandy underparts are set off by dark breast band and peach-coloured throat, while a long brown, barred, tail sports oddly blue outer retrices. A hefty magpie-sized beast, this amazing bird certainly rates as one of the worldís more impressive avian inhabitants.
 
By the time we have had our Ground-Roller fill, the boys from the ëReniala Circusí have already summoned up the next act; just 50m away from the first goal they have corralled a party of three Sub-desert Mesites into a small clearing between the bushes where they pace back and forth calling loudly. Two birds, two endemic families! Rail-like birds, Mesites have caused much taxonomic head-scratching over many years, and were slotted in between true quails and buttonquails by Mr Clements. Regardless of their dubious affinities, they are absolutely stunning creatures, with stout decurved bills, dark upperparts cut by a distinct white supercillium and magnificently marked white underparts. In the male, black spots on the upper breast turn to hearts then chevrons on the flanks, while the female exhibits more dense reddish blotching on the upper breast. They strut on thick pink legs with a long cocked tail in a manner no rail would ever dream of!
 
A bright male Archboldís Newtonia is drawn to the tape and an impressive Crested Coua, sporting tall grey topknot plus bicoloured purple and turquoise facial skin, moves through the bare treetops. A pair of huge Greater Vasa Parrot pass low overhead and an unexpected bonus is a Madagascar Cuckoo Hawk which sits unobtrusively in a treetop to survey his surroundings through large yellow-irised eyes.
 
The strange waxy white forms of Flatid Leaf Bug larvae, which appear as walking wispy lichen, form a fascinating distraction before the final bird of the day, a ëtreedí Running Coua. The bird has clearly given up running and placed itself in a spiny bush to escape the attentions of the guides, but this does give us opportunity to admire its black-bounded deep-blue facial skin and contrasting bright-orange throat.
 
The whole Reniala experience presents many an ethical quandary. Whilst the uncompromising tactics of ëpresentingí the birds to the client have to be questioned, one must also consider that by visiting the reserve one is directly contributing to the preservation of one of the most threatened habitats on the planet; what remains of the Spiny Forest is limited to a block just 70km wide by 200km long. So maybe itís worth a few birds being harassed for a few minutes, once in a while, in order to protect a large tract of this fantastic habitat? Iíll leave that dilemma to the conscience of the future visitor, but what is for sure is that the incredible Spiny Forest and itís unique inhabitants form one of the most fascinating habitats on Earth.
 
As we walk back to the coast road, Madagascar Nightjars hawk against an orange sky and the incredible shapes of baobabs are silhouetted by the breathtaking sunset; it really has been an afternoon to remember.
 
Returning to Le Paradisier, we set out with torches for a pre-dinner night walk along the entrance track and are rewarded with our first lemur within a matter of minutes! Initially the agile Grey-brown Mouse Lemur keeps to the centre of a dense bush, but eventually he moves to the peripheral branches where the reddish-tinged tail, ears and eyebrows of this gorgeous little pale-grey lemur can be fully appreciated.
 
Monday 27^th August
A pre-dawn bus ride allows us to be back amongst the Reniala baobabs for first light, and itís surprisingly chilly at 06.00. Common Newtonia, Crested Coua and Madagascar Turtle Dove are early padders as we attempt to track down Thamnornis Warbler, another Spiny Forest speciality. After a little persistence a pair of Thamnornis Warblers are coaxed out, with an attractive male Red-tailed Vanga next and then Hook-billed Vanga, bearing a remarkable resemblance to an Australasian butcherbird. One of the morningís main targets is Lafresnayeís Vanga, but this species plays hard-to-get and it takes a couple of hours to track down a calling bird which even then keeps himself to distant treetops. Grey-headed Lovebirds whiz over calling and another Running Coua is logged before an extremely obliging Green-capped Coua completes the morningís birding.
 
We return to Le Paradisier for breakfast, where Three-eyed Lizards scurry around the pathways displaying an amazingly realistic false eye marking on top of their heads! With only one night available at Le Paradisier we need to move hotels, so while the bus takes our bags via the road we walk north along the beach to the neighbouring Nautilus Hotel. Itís only a couple of kilometres and en route we watch White-fronted Plovers at close quarters and poke around in the rock pools exposed at low tide. The Nautilus is much more in keeping with our needs, a down-to-earth establishment with an open dining area which overlooks the Mozambique Channel and clean but basic rooms with similarly impressive views.
 
Photography and a snooze fills the hot section of the day before we venture out at 15.00, again heading north past Ifaty. We pick up the Reniala boys en route and head for a site a little further north, again bordering the Spiny Forest. The guidesí hunch pays off and we are instantly confronted by a superb Banded Kestrel, which is hunting shrike-like from baobab perches, allowing perfect photographic study against a deep blue sky. Nearby a group of Madagascar Green Pigeons perform and we gain our first perched views of attractive Grey-headed Lovebirds.
 
The last hour of the day is spent back at Reniala, but the Madagascar Sparrowhawk which was nesting a few weeks previously has now fledged and only raucous Greater Vasa Parrots are present to see out the daylight hours. We have arranged to take another night walk, on which we find two more Grey-brown Mouse Lemurs, including one which sits devouring a huge cricket. The other star is a ëroostingí Ousterletís Chameleon. Chameleons tend to loose their camouflaged appearance at night, when fewer predators roam, and their pale forms are easier to spot as they cling to bare branches.
 
Back to the Nautilus Hotel we are given a fine seafood meal, consumed on the open veranda around which numerous Madagascar Nightjars sit and utter their distinctive call, resembling a ping-pong ball bouncing on a table.
 
Tuesday 28^th August
An 04.00 start is a slight shock to the system but necessary in order to travel south to an area known as La Table, which has become justifiably famous since the discovery of Red-shouldered Vanga, a bird first described to science in 1997. Our drop-off point is actually beside the main E7 road, to the east of Tulear, where the slight change in elevation as we reach the top of a low escarpment delivers us into some very different habitat.
 
Low, dense bushes form a seemingly impenetrable mass known as coral rag scrub, which is accessed via an occasional track cut through the vegetation. We had brought Renialaís Red-shouldered Vanga expert with us to help in our quest, so he and Rija walk ahead, alternately whistling the Vangaís call and the pig-like squeal of Verreauxís Coua, our other target bird at this site.
 
After twenty minutes in the field a distant whistle reveals the presence of a Red-shouldered Vanga, but actually clapping oneís eyes on the bird turns out to be an entirely different proposition! Taking progressively narrower trails we track the call, eventually being forced off-piste and into the dense condensation-soaked scrub, where the lichen-covered bushes soon coat us from head to toe in greeny-brown grime. With our group of seven people crashing through the tangle of undergrowth it takes a considerable time to catch up with the calling birds, but eventually we all get to see a magnificent pair of Red-shouldered Vangas at extremely close range and all is instantly made worthwhile.
 
Moving back to the wider tracks we set off in search of Verreauxís Coua, and before too long secure at least three different birds which habitually perch atop the tallest bushes to display a wispy crest and bicoloured blue facial skin. The walk back to the bus produces Greater Vasa Parrots and our first Madagascar Buzzard, plus highly photogenic wooden carts pulled by paired zebu cattle which trot slowly along the coral-sand track.
 
As we descend to the coastal plain, hungrily munching a packed breakfast, the flat-topped section of escarpment from which La Table gained itís name becomes apparent. Final port of call for the morning is an area of zebu-grazed grassland and secondary scrub known as La Mangrove. It is already 09.20 and theoretically well past sandgrouse drinking time, so when a lone Madagascar Sandgrouse flies low overhead we cannot believe our good fortune! We check out the drinking pools and find only Humblotís Heron and Dimorphic Egrets; we have clearly been very lucky with our single sandgrouse, an increasingly difficult bird to find in Madagascar.
 
From La Mangrove itís a short ride back to our hotel for the next two nights, the appropriately named La Paille en Queue, which is French for tropicbird. This fine establishment is equipped with well-designed two-storey chalets and a very inviting swimming pool in which we are soon splashing, as we must surely be entitled to some relaxation after such a successful morningís work!
 
After an excellent seafood lunch we return to La Mangrove to see out the remainder of the day, where we find time to photograph some previously neglected common species such as Madagascar Bee-Eater, Cisticola, Lark and Kingfisher and some unusually cooperative Grey-headed Lovebirds; the sandgrouse, however, fail to put in a return visit to their favoured pool.
 
A superb dinner at La Paille en Queue ends the day, and we find we are starting to get quite a taste for fine French cuisine!
 
Wednesday 29^th August
The day commences with yet another trip to La Mangrove and yet again no sandgrouse materialise, emphasising just how lucky we had been with our single bird the previous day. The visitís highlight is a male Greater Painted Snipe, seen before we head into Tulear town where we have an 08.00 boat to catch.
 
The 08.00 boat finally appears at 09.00, having travelled up the coast from the resort of Anakao, and the extraordinary unloading process begins. The draft of the boat means that it can approach no closer than about 100 metres from the stone quay wall. Ancient wooded carts drawn by pairs of zebu are therefore dispatched to collect the incoming holidaymakers, with water up to the zebuís shoulders and occasionally swamping the carts behind. It would all be very amusing if it werenít for the fact that it is our turn to board the carts next!
 
We carefully mount the precariously balanced contraptions, sharing the cramped confines with several large drums of petrol, and head out into the swell. The young drivers gleefully whip the beasts of burden, which unsurprisingly show some reluctance to leave the safety of the shore, and our knuckles whiten on the greasy wet handrail as we bump through the shallows to where the boat is anchored. Miraculously we all make the crossing to the boat without a soaking, and settle down into the sturdy twin-engined craft for the 45 minutes high-speed journey down the coast.
 
The 8m hull rhythmically crashes onto the oncoming waves with tooth-grinding regularity as we pass the wide Bay of St Augustine and the River Onilahy Estuary, to reach the white sandy beaches to the south. We finally drop anchor just off the conglomeration of thatched huts which make up Anakao resort, where a wide channel separates the mainland from the low coral island of Nosy Ve.
 
Rija has planned the expedition with his usual thoroughness and a laid breakfast table, below a thatched sunshade, awaits our arrival after we have waded ashore! There is no rest just yet, however, and Rija marches us past the table and into the dunes beyond. Within a few minutes we have located our goal, a male Littoral Rock Thrush which is actually singing from the top of various holiday chalets and at extremely close range.
 
We celebrate with an excellent breakfast, consumed overlooking a tropical sea and the low outline of Nosy Ve, over which the white shapes of tropicbirds can already be seen. After re-boarding our boat for the crossing to the coral island it becomes apparent that it has been beset by mechanical difficulties and we drift for an hour as the boatmen take the outboard motor to pieces. It seems like a serious repair job so another boat is summoned and we transfer for the fifteen minute crossing, which is rather wetter than we would have wished in the smaller craft.
 
Nosy is Malagasy for island and Ve is a question mark, i.e. is the sandy island on which we land, just a kilometres in length by 200m wide, really an island at all? Well the lone Crab Plover which greets us as we wade ashore certainly thinks it is, and so do the dozens of Red-tailed Tropicbirds which are constantly in view. It takes twenty minutes to walk down the beautifully untouched beach to the southern reaches of Nosy Ve, where low green bushes provide protection from the scorching sun and sheltered tropicbird nest sites.
 
Below the bushes we find Red-tailed Tropicbirds at all reproductive stages, which some incubating eggs, some brooding small downy young and some with large young almost ready to fledge. Highlight, however, are the supremely elegant adult birds with pure white plumage other than a small black mask and some subtle flank barring. This is set off by bright red bill and a ribbon-like red tailed-streamer which is almost as long as the body. The birds chase and hover in display, immediately overhead, often with large black paddle-like feet lowered as stabilisers. It is an incredible experience to be amongst the colony of exotic seafarers and well worth the effort made to reach this remote location.
 
Back at the north end of Nosy Ve, snorkels and flippers are on hand for a session with the islands impressive marine life, before the crossing back to Anakao for a late lunch. Just as we board the boat for the return trip to Tulear an adult Kelp Gull flies low along the surfline. This is a bonus as there have been a number of recent mutterings about the splitting of the Malagasy birds to sub-specific or even full species status.
 
The journey north is much less bumpy as the boat hugs the coastline, although the zebu cart crossing at Tulear is even more precarious in water so deep that the cattle seem in serious danger of drowning! Close to Tulear Airport we stop beside some well-vegetated roadside pools. Although they are constantly disturbed by both vehicles and pedestrians, a few bursts of Rijaís White-throated Rail recording provokes at instant response. With patience we obtain great views of at least three White-throated Rails before darkness descends and we return to La Paille en Queue for the eveningís gastronomic delight.
 
Thursday 30^th August
From Tulear it is a 2æ hour drive to the forests of Zombitse and as the site lacks accommodation an 03.00 start is necessary to arrive at this important site at dawn. At Zombitse the air is distinctly chilly at first light and mist covers the rather open dry deciduous woodland. The local guide is eventually raised and we set off around the winding loop trail close to the HQ complex.
 
We have moved to a very different habitat and consequently almost every bird is new. Long-billed Greenbul, Blue Vanga and a pair of Coquerelís Couas appear in close succession, but an early highlight are the weird and wonderful Cuckoo Rollers which are not uncommon here. With disproportionately-large heads and an eye which seems to have been attached in the wrong position, this incredible bird remains in a family of its own. They exhibit a particularly high degree of sexual dimorphism, with grey males showing a metallic sheen to the upperparts and browner females exhibiting Mistle Thrush-like spotting below.
 
A Hubbardís Sportive Lemur roosting outside his tree hole is photographed at close quarters; this species has recently been split from Red-tailed Sportive Lemur and is currently known only from Zombitse National Park. Soon afterwards the first major target bird falls, in the form of a rather impressive pair of Appertís Greenbuls which feed on the forest floor. The first of many Madagascar Paradise Flycatchers comes next, before we eventually track down the surprisingly elusive and distinctly arboreal Giant Coua. Eventually we see three of these hefty birds, and all are perched high in the forest canopy.
 
We are just enjoying our first Rufous Vanga when loud mammalian calls are identified as Verreauxís Sifakas by our guide. The prospect of seeing this very rare lemur means that all birding is forgotten, as we chase off along the trail in pursuit. Rija summons us with a whistle and we round a bend to be confronted with a group of half-a-dozen brown-and-white apparitions bounding from tree trunk to tree trunk, and directly towards us. The Sifakas seem as surprised to see us as we are to see them, as they leap to close vertical tree limbs and sit momentarily motionless to stare at us from intense golden eyes set in jet-black faces. After a few seconds each animal springs off, and almost instantly they have melted into the forest as quickly as they have arrived. Although the entire episode lasts for less than a minute, this thrilling encounter with both beautiful and truly wild lemurs is easily the highlight of the morning and proves to be one of the most memorable moments of the entire trip.
 
After a late picnic breakfast we set off north again, towards Isalo, rapidly leaving behind any remnants of natural deciduous forest and entering a parched and lifeless landscape of bare hillsides and dry brown grass which stretches as far as the eye can see. After an hour-and-a-half of travel we turn off the tarmac and onto a dirt track which passes spectacular weathered limestone outcrops as it leads us to an incredible newly-constructed stone and timber complex, nestling tastefully between the huge rocks and adjacent to one of the few remaining patches of forest.
 
Entering the dining area we realise what an outrageously up-market establishment Le Relais de la Reine actually is, as staff run to accommodate our every wish. The food in Le Jardin du Roy Restaurant is just as phenomenal as the architecture, and our remote chalet accommodation easily the finest in which we stay. Again it could be argued that such decadence is unnecessary on a birding trip, but Le Relais de la Reine is actually home to enough sought-after bird species to make a stay essential.
 
At 15.00 we set off north, taking the main road through the Isalo National Park and a spectacular landscape of weathered limestone escarpments, tinted in dramatic shades of orange, yellow and brown. Beyond the park boundary we reach a plateau of never-ending brown grassland where regular stops are made to scan for Reunion Harrier, though sadly to no avail. As dusk approaches the dark shapes of numerous African Marsh Owls rise from the grass to hunt, and are almost constantly in view as we retrace our tracks to the south.
 
Back at Le Relais de la Reine we set out into the dark gorge in search of nightbirds. A White-browed Owl soon responds to the tape but it takes some chasing around outcrops and chalets before we secure a decent view of this spectacular Ninox with pale eyebrows, white-spotted wing coverts and a neatly-barred chest. Torotoroka Scops-Owl proves to be more of a challenge and despite the fact that three birds call from the block of dense woodland in the gorge bottom it takes an hourís searching before we get to see this diminutive greyish owl.
 
After securing both owls we retire to Le Jardin du Roy for an outstanding meal in the spacious restaurant, washed down with copious amounts of the ubiquitous Three Horses Beer. After dining a few of us put in some more time with the White-browed Owl, eventually gaining definitive photographic views of the bird on his favoured satellite antenna perch.
 
Friday 31^st August
At 06.00 we leave our chalets and within a few paces find a singing male Bensonís Rock Thrush. Our eyes are scarcely open and we have our first tick! Strangely, Sinclair and Langrand decided to lump this species with Forest Rock Thrush, but everyone else seems happy to maintain its full species status on grounds of differing habitat preferences, plumage and song; as we obtain full frame photos we know which side of the fence we will be jumping on this debate!
 
Just a few metres from the Rock Thrush a pair of Madagascar Buttonquail are flushed from short grass, but land again nearby and scurry across the bare earth. And just a few metres further a party of six Madagascar Partridges come running out of the sparse cover, onto a cultivated field and into full view. The males are impressively marked with black-and-white striped faces and serve to crown a phenomenal half-hour of birding.
 
All that remains is for us to take breakfast and depart for our continued journey to the north. Beyond Isalo we again spend time scanning for Reunion Harrier, but sadly not a sniff of this scarce raptor is to be had. The grassy plains give way to more hilly country, where oases of vegetation are found in occasional river valleys in an otherwise stark brown landscape. Our journey also takes us past numerous small herds of zebu, being driven north to a market still many days walk away.
 
At 12.30 we pull off the main road at a signpost proclaiming our arrival at Anja National Park. Leaving the bus we take a short walk downhill to a wooded area set at the foot of a huge granite escarpment, over which Black and Alpine Swifts plus Madagascar Buzzards glide. The area is home to a large troop of Ring-tailed Lemurs, and a total of 32 animals are counted, laid-up in trees during the heat of midday.
 
The Ring-tailed Lemur is an instantly recognisable flagship species, appearing on many a Malagasy conservation logo. These attractive animals, with a banded tail which is frequently held aloft and a black-masked white face, are the most terrestrial of the family and restricted to a limited number of sites in the south of the island. It is clearly the beginning of the breeding season and some females are clutching tiny youngsters, one being such a recent addition that the umbilical cord is still attached.
 
Leaving the lemurs we continue north, through more densely populated lands, where terraced rice fields cover valley bottoms and charcoal-producing eucalypt woodland cloak the hillsides. We are gaining altitude and clearly entering areas of greater precipitation, as the whole landscape has a greener, fresher feel. Set amongst the rice paddies are improvised mud-brick factories, where both men and women labour to shape the natural orange clay into building bricks which are either laid out to dry naturally in the sun or built into tall hollow stacks to be fired with eucalyptus wood. The bricks are, in turn, used to construct the distinctive local style two-storey houses, each with first floor balcony and thatched grass roof.
 
Just north of the bustling provincial capital of Fianarantsoa we leave the E7 and head east towards Ranomafana National Park. The eucalypts finally give way to natural deciduous forest, which reassuringly stretches as far as the view over banks of wooded hills will allow. After following the course of a wide winding river for a few kilometres we come to a halt at Vohiparara Marsh, with not much more than an hourís daylight remaining.
 
We skirt an area of rice fields to a tiny patch of damp grass and scrub which is sadly all that remains of Vohiparara Marsh. A Grey Emutail quickly responds to the tape, however, and our first target bird is rapidly in the bag. In order to see this siteís other speciality we employ the services of the local farmer who strides out across the damp grass to flush two Madagascar Snipe, impressively large and heavily barred birds, which give us an admirable fly-past performance. Agriculture seems to be encroaching ever more on this wild corner and we are sure to cross the landowners hand with a small wad of Ariary in the hope that it will go some way to help prevent the destruction of this miniscule piece of habitat.
 
Fifteen minutes drive delivers us to Setam Lodge, our base for the next three nights. This establishment is ideal for our needs, being right on the doorstep of the best birding areas and providing excellent food and chalet-style accommodation on a terraced hillside. After dumping the kit we are keen to get out with the torches, while Rija sets out to the nearby town to source our local bird guide for the next few days. A walk down the main road, in a damp mist which has now descended, finds us a Brown Mouse Lemur and a number of close shaves with heavily laden lorries!
 
The days ends with a great meal and the usual Three Horses Beer (THB) infusion, with Rija proudly proclaiming that he has secured the services of Jean-Chris for the next three days, reputedly the current best (and soberest!) guide in Ranomafana.
 
Saturday 1^st September
Continental breakfast and strong coffee are consumed at Setam Lodge before dawn, to allow us to make the ten minute bus ride to Vohiparara for first light. The diminutive figure of Jean-Chris leads the way onto the well-maintained trail system, which is even provided with timber steps over the steepest sections. New birds come thick-and-fast, in the form of Tylas and Pollenís Vangas, Wedge-tailed Jery, Nelicourvi Weaver, Spectacled Greenbul and a Madagascar Wood Rail which briefly wanders onto the track.
 
Moving deeper into the steeply undulating, damp mossy forest the distinct low hoot of a Rufous-headed Ground-Roller is heard in a distant gully. We backtrack along narrow trails to the spot but in spite of our efforts it cannot be enticed to the tape and soon falls frustratingly silent.
 
Spirits are raised again when we are confronted by a pair of gorgeous white-and-orange Madagascar Pygmy-Kingfishers, which are watched hunting at close range. Then a Cryptic Warbler sings from a low section of canopy and Dark Newtonia performs in the understorey. Reaching a certain ridge-top we are told to be on our lookout for one of the morningís main target birds and a few minutes later we are face-to-face with a dazzling male Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity!
 
The stunning little creature feeds at head height, demonstrating bright metallic-blue upperparts and yellow belly, blue and green eye-wattle and strongly decurved bill. Luck is clearly still on our side, as this species, the first of yet another endemic family, can sometimes be tricky to find. We clearly have our eyes in for asities, as the very next bird to be found is a male Common Sunbird-Asity, a duller and obviously sooty-breasted version of itís predecessor and not nearly as common as itís name would suggest; this is our only sighting of both species.
 
Another Rufous-headed Ground-Roller is calling and again we are led on a chase up-and-down the trails, via a flighty Madagascar Sparrowhawk, but only Rija catches up with the Ground-Roller. Whilst heading towards another known territory Jean-Chris flushes a large dark bird off the track and rushes after it. Using some stealthy field craft he corners the bird below a tree root and we obtain exceptionally close looks at a superb Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, with bright rufous head and breast, white-flecked black throat patch and iridescent blue shoulders. Suitably photographed and videoed-to-death we move back and the cornered Ground-Roller is pleased to hop off amongst the moss.
 
A couple of Red-bellied Lemurs add some mammalian interest to the morningís notebook entries, though they remain at roost on high branches. A Velvet Asity is much more co-operative. A non-breeding plumaged male, he shows subtle lemon barring to sooty black breast and upperparts.
 
Having started grey and dismal, the day has brightened to give patches of blue sky by the time we leave the forest at noon, and as a closing treat Jean-Chris produces a Giraffe-necked Weevil for us at itís food plant, Dichaetanthera cordifolia. This incredible insect has a bright red body, the size of a fingernail, and a head set on a long articulated neck.
 
We dine back at the Lodge, on the veranda that has a fine view over the forest. Wasting none of the good weather we then head onto the nearby Talatakely trail system, joining a few other Western tourists in this popular mammal-viewing area. A sleepy Eastern Avahi, or Woolly Lemur, is soon seen, close to another three roosting Red-bellied Lemurs. A group of four Greater Bamboo-Lemurs are slightly more animated, in that they actually move a little, but they too are clearly more interested in a siesta than pleasing the crowd. A large dark-grey lemur with long woolly tail and distinctive pale grey ear-tufts, this is a very rare species confined to a small area of southeastern humid forest.
 
A group of three Red-fronted Brown Lemurs are encountered a little further along the trail, moving quickly through the canopy, and our first Wardís Flycatcher is found in the same area. Next bird comes right out-of-the blue and is an absolute stunner. After a clear whistled song is heard in dense undergrowth beside the trail, a little taped encouragement instantly has a normally-terrestrial Crossleyís Babbler singing close to head-height and just a few metres away. With long bill, fantastic striped head-pattern and a supreme performance, this species is certainly a surprise trip highlight. Soon afterwards, as we pass through an area of dense bamboo, an Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur is briefly seen as it moves through the vegetation, being distinctly smaller than itís Greater cousins.
 
The plan is to end the day in the vicinity of Belle View, a scenic viewpoint which is well known for certain mammals attracted by evening feeding. Apparently this activity has been outlawed by the park authorities, but seems to still be widely practised by the guides as we find when Jean-Chris produces some strategic pieces of zebu meat! Although the carnivores are supposed to appear at dusk, a Fanaloka is almost immediately located in the undergrowth beside the wooden shelter and soon ventures into the open for the meat. It is only 17.00 and is still daylight, affording us fantastic close views of this beautifully spotted civet-type beast. We are still photographing the Fanaloka when a loud whisper of ìmongoose!î goes up and we spin round to find a superb Ring-tailed Mongoose eating meaty morsels at the opposite edge of the same clearing. As mongooses go this is a really spectacular animal, with a deep red-brown coat and brighter reddish tail banded in black.
 
The Fanaloka remains in the area and is joined by a second individual, with a ferocious squabble breaking out at one point. Then, right on cue, a Brown Mouse Lemur appears in the bushes beside the track and begins to lap up the mashed banana which has been smeared on various treetrunks to entice him, just centimetres away from admiring tourists.
 
Final port of call in the half-light is a section of trail known to be favoured by a Pitta-like Ground-Roller, where we scour the forest floor until it is too dark for birding, but sadly to no avail. The return torch-lit walk reveals some interesting reptiles, in the form of Short-horned Chameleon, Satanic Leaf-tailed Gecko Europlatus phantasticus and Common Leaf-tailed Gecko E. fimbricatis. When a Malagasy Scops-Owl begins to call we rapidly entice him closer with playback. Jean-Chris disappears into the undergrowth and soon announces that he has located the calling bird. Surprisingly it holds itís ground while seven heavy pairs of feet crash their way to the spot, to look down on us from a bare branch just 4m away; an excellent end to the day.
 
 
Sunday 2^nd September
The plan is to spend all day on the Talatakely trails and in the primary forest beyond, so we gorge ourselves on fresh French bread at breakfast and set off with a picnic lunch. Decent views of Common Jery are finally secured in the reserve car park, before we set off, and after just a few seconds of walking a cooperative White-throated Oxylabes appears, carrying nesting material. The first of many Madagascar Blue Pigeons flies over the river as we cross the bridge, and then itís heads down for an hour as we negotiate some particularly steep trails.
 
A pair of Brown Mesites, a major target at Ranomafana, are calling in a distant gully and we set off in pursuit through some very inhospitable terrain. For over an hour we try a mixture of tape-luring and call-chasing, but the Mesites wonít have any of it. A little deflated we walk on to a site where Jean-Chris has found a nesting Henstís Goshawk. We see the large stick nest in a high treetop and hear a bird call at close range on our arrival, but it departs unseen and we eventually have to admit another defeat. Birds 2, birders 0.
 
Velvet Asity and a group of White-headed Vangas pick us up a little, and we need it as the trail climbs ever steeper. Topping a high ridge we encounter a party of Red-fronted Brown Lemurs and then the jackpot, in the form of a magnificent family group of Milne-Edwardsí Sifakas. These large and active lemurs are beautifully attired in a coat which subtly combines chocolate brown with creamy white, and stare down on us through orange-red eyes.
 
At the peak of the ridge is a shelter where we make a brief lunch stop, before continuing along the trail which has now thankfully levelled out. A pair of Ashy Cuckoo-Shrikes are another welcome new species, but when a calling Brown Mesite is heard far below us we get a feeling of dÈj‡ vu. Again playback seems to have little effect so in a desperate change of tactics Jean-Chris sets off down the steep and heavily wooded hillside in pursuit; we are starting to find that bird guides seem to do things a little differently in Madagascar! Several minutes pass before Jean-Chris calls up to say that he has found the bird and is ëgently persuadingí it to move in our direction. Amazingly he single-handedly guides the bird towards us, undeterred by the dense undergrowth, until it hops into view on the mossy forest floor. Continuing his advance the bird is delivered to a spot just a couple of metres from where we line the trail, allowing us to study the beautifully subtle peachy-dappled breast, pale grey throat and short white neck-stripe of this weird rail-cum-passerine. Itís a star performance from Jean-Chris, made all the more pleasurable by the fact that the Mesite seems relatively nonplussed by the whole experience and quietly trots off into the forest when we have had our fill.
 
Continuing along the ridge top we speculatively trawl with a Brown Emutail recording and are very pleasantly surprised when we hear a response from some dense herbage right beside the track. The bird continues his high-pitched trill and the plant-stems twitch, but seeing him is more of a test. At one point he is seen to run through low vegetation exactly like a small mammal, and several times he darts across the track, before eventually alighting in view for a second or two.
 
Soon after ëOperation Emutailí the cloud base drops and a light drizzle sets in, so we descend to lower altitude in the hope of avoiding the rain. On the way back we try for the Henstís Goshawk again, but all is quiet, so we head back to the Pitta-like Ground-Roller territory for the last light of the day. Jean-Chris picks up the scent and both guides scurry off up a hillside, presumably to round it up! It therefore gives us great pleasure to actually find a bird for ourselves, when AD picks up a dazzling Pitta-like Ground-Roller casually hopping across the forest floor just metres away. The bird remains in the same area for a good ten minutes, a great finale to a day which at one stage was looking a little desperate.
 
As if the Ground-Roller wasnít enough Jean-Chris springs one final surprise by tracking down a group of three superb Golden Bamboo Lemurs, to complete the set. Beautifully marked with golden-brown underparts, they avidly feed on Giant Bamboo, delicately holding shoots and running them through their teeth to strip the flesh. These amazing creatures were only discovered in 1985, and study has revealed that their digestive system has evolved to cope with cyanide-rich Giant Bamboo which would be lethal to any other species.
 
Back at Setam Lodge we have plenty to celebrate and the THB flows in volume. We also get the opportunity to sample the tasty local delight of zebu tongue in ginger!
 
Monday 3^rd September
It rains heavily in the night and the day starts under a dull blanket of low cloud. Following a highly successful couple of days we now have a very select list of target birds for the final few hours of birding at Ranomafana. The bus stops at a certain bend in the road and we all pile out to listen to Jean-Chrisís battered tape recorder. Instantly a response is heard and seconds later we are trying to discern the colours of a Forest Rock Thrush in the very poor light. Fortunately he drops lower and we are able to ascertain that he does indeed possess blue head and bright orange breast!
 
First target in the bag, we continue to Vohiparara. Two Red-fronted Couas are calling from within metres of the track but refuse to budge, though these are forgotten when a Madagascar Yellowbrow responds to the tape with high-pitched song. This terrestrial babbler is a renowned skulker and a prolonged bout of peering into dense undergrowth, charging up-and-down the trail and swearing commences. Jean-Chris disappears into the damp tangle of bushes on hands and knees at one point, but the Yellowbrows are too much even for his corralling skills. With patience, scratches and wet knees, however, we all eventually secure excellent views of what really are excellent birds, not at all unlike Raddeís Warblers but with the dull buffy bits painted in bright sulphury-yellow, including a huge up-tilted supercillium. Target number two in the bag!
 
A pair of Rufous-headed Ground-Rollers beside the track are a real bonus as we head back to the road, beside which we tape out a beautiful little Madagascar Flufftail in an area of damp grassland. We really are on a roll, making it impossible to resist one last crack at Henstís Goshawk. So itís back to Talatakely, where by 08.30 the weather is rapidly improving and a Randís Warbler has begun to sing from a treetop beside the car park. A very obliging and very smart Red-capped Coua briefly parades on the trail for us, then itís heads down for the march to the Goshawk site.
 
The call of a Henstís Goshawk is echoing through the trees upon our arrival and the adrenaline is flowing as we make our way down the hillside. A brief burst of taped encouragement is all that it takes and a large Accipiter glides through the trees in our direction. Jean-Chris soon locates his perch and after some delicate manoeuvring we are all soaking up incredible views of this magnificent raptor. He seems totally unconcerned about our presence and remains on a low bough for several minutes until his mate calls, he screams a reply, then flies off to meet her. And so itís three-out-of-three targets all secured on our final morning at Ranomafana!
 
During the long descent we have time to study the terrestrial rodents which have largely eluded us until now. We conclude that both Lowland Red Forest Rat and Eastern Red Forest Rat are present, and even gain photographic evidence to prove it. A fantastic morning is toasted with omelette and chips back at the Lodge, where we warmly thank Jean-Chris for his valiant efforts. He has certainly lived up to his reputation as the best guide in town, as we have not missed a single target bird at Ranomafana.
 
A long session of laborious travel commences at this point, as Ranomafana is situated too far south of Tana for us to make a mid-afternoon flight connection on the same day that we leave the forest site, thus necessitating an overnight break in the journey. The landscape on the northward trip is much the same as before, rice paddies in valley bottoms, tall orange mud-brick houses and low hills dotted with patches of eucalypt.
The E7 along which we travel is the countryís main arterial route, being very well surfaced, but is particularly winding and almost every river crossing is via a single-track bridge. Fortunately it hosts very little traffic and we often travel for considerable periods without sight of another motor vehicle, testament to the fact that levels of wealth preclude the vast majority of the population from the luxury of mechanised transport.
 
Mid afternoon we break the journey where Ambalamanakana Forest borders the road. This small remnant of native deciduous forest is remarkably birdy considering the time of day and in a matter of minutes we clock up Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Forest Fody, Madagascar Buzzard and both endemic sunbirds. Star bird is undoubtedly a Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk which is observed working its way unobtrusively through the canopy, flying short distances from treetop-to-treetop and constantly craning a long neck to search for an opportunistic meal.
 
After passing through the lively market town of Ambositra the landscape gives way to more scenic rocky gorges which are viewed from the bus in dramatic evening light. Final destination is Antsirabe, where we check into the Arotel Hotel, whose deceptively palacious lobby leads to tired and shabby rooms. The adjoining French restaurant is outstanding, however, and the four-course meal is one of the best of the trip.
 
Tuesday 4^th September
Logistics dictate that today will be birding-free, as we need to get all the way from Antsirabe to Majunga on the northwest coast. The journey north to Tana, under a clear blue sky, is uneventful with a landscape very similar to the preceding leg of the journey though noticeably more arable crop production is carried out in terraced fields on the rich volcanic soil as we near the Capital.
 
By 12.30 we reach the Relais des Plateaux in Tana, where we dine in superb French style once again. A brief stop at Lake Andranotapahina hardly qualifies as true birding, but a variety of interesting odonata are photographed in hope of future identification.
 
Our 16.50 Air Madagascar flight departs on time, with a rather decrepit Boeing 737 whisking us up to Nosy Be in just over an hour. After taking on a consignment of suntanned French holidaymakers we make a short forty-minute hop down to Majunga and disembark. The Coco Lodge is our place of residence for the single night in Majunga and although the accommodation and food is good, the army of mosquitoes that frequent the open-air dining area are something of a distraction.
 
Wednesday 5^th September
Todayís breakfast is a rare leisurely affair, as we do not need to be at our boat until 07.30.  The quay from where we will commence our trip to the Betsiboka Delta is just five minutes away, and we are delighted to find that we have a large Marlin-fishing launch at our disposal for the morning; it transpires that the usual smaller craft is out of order and so we get the luxury version for the same price!
 
We set out in glorious clear weather in the capable hands of Claude, the tattooed and sea-weathered ex-pat French skipper who we cannot help but liken to Captain Quint from Jaws! His game fishing business clearly benefits from the stream of birders who make the pilgrimage to this spot in search of a couple of Madagascarís rarest species, as the Betsiboka Delta is now an essential part of every Madagascar itinerary.
 
It takes a full hour travelling south from Majunga to reach the low mangrove-covered islands within the Delta which are home to our target birds, and a number of Madagascar Sacred Ibis are instantly seen, perched on bare treetops. Six or eight birds are present on the particular island we visit and great views are obtained, as high tide allows close approach to the shore, allowing diagnostic pale iris and all-white primary feathers to be studied in detail.
 
Bernierís Teal are found close by, with just three of these rare ducks perching on branches at the waterís edge. A group of three Madagascar Harrier-Hawks hunting over the mangroves are a bonus, as this species proves to be surprisingly scarce in the course of our travels. White-throated Rail, Humblotís Heron and small flocks of Terek Sandpipers complete a very successful cruise, as we set a course back to Majunga with Lesser Crested Terns passing close to the boat.
 
Back on dry land we stuff bags and bodies into a rather cramped but very comfortable minibus for the ride to Ankarafansika, via the supermarket for essential stocks of gin and rum. Travelling southeast we first pass through mango and cashew orchards then cultivated fields, before entering barren, flat terrain of dry grassland and sparse scrub.
 
It takes around two-and-a-half hours to reach the large remnant block of dry deciduous forest which forms Ankarafansika Nature Reserve, where we are welcomed by a very large Oustaletís Chameleon which is slowly crossing the road. We report to the Ampijoroa Forest Station and are shown to magnificently equipped rustic chalets, each with a view across the southern margins of Lake Ravelobe. A troop of Coquerelís Sifakas are taking their siesta in a eucalyptus above the campsite and go straight in at number one best-looking-lemur of the trip. Overall creamy-white, they display boldly contrasting patches of deep maroon-brown on thighs, arms and chest, so that front-on they appear to be wearing a dark brown sweater!
 
After a quick omelette we spend a short while birding around the rear of our chalets and from the tower hide beyond. It is the end of the dry season and the shallow southern portion of Lake Ravelobe is so dry that the local children have set up a football pitch within its limits. In spite of the disturbance we pick out a Madagascar Jacana amongst the large groups of White-faced Whistling Ducks and a huge Madagascar Fish-Eagle which alights on the distant shoreline. Lesser Vasa Parrot is also a new bird, with a small group feeding in the trees adjacent to our chalets.
 
Our guide at Ankarafansika is to be Nono who, whilst knowledgeable enough, falls well short of Jean-Chris and the Reniala boys in the enthusiasm stakes. At 15.30 we take the minibus for the short ride to the Jarden Botanique, a section of the reserve just north of Lake Ravelobe. Here a good trail system cuts through the flat, dry woodland and we set off in search of two very important target birds.
 
A group of Madagascar Buttonquail put in a good performance amongst the crunchy leaf litter and several Sakalava Weavers are seen, before a trilled call announces the presence of one of the big targets. In the open woodland it doesnít take long to locate the group of three White-breasted Mesites, which scurry relentlessly through the undergrowth. They are cracking birds, with a boldly striped rufous-and-cream head, clean white throat bordered by a black moustachial stripe and rufous breast-band, plus a neatly spotted breast. What is more, they fulfil the important goal of completing the full set of bizarre and beautiful mesites.
 
About fifty metres further down the trail Rija plays his tape and a dazzling little male Schlegelís Asity hops up onto a bare branch in response! Two birds, two families completed; where else on Earth could this happen? A male Schlegelís Asity is an amazing bird, bright-yellow breasted and with a black head. The thing which makes him stand out is, however, is the unique multi-lobed wattle surrounding the eye that is partly lime-green and partly sky-blue. He is joined by his dull, streaky mate and coughs up a large seed before departing.
 
Having bagged the goodies we return to Ampijoroa Forest Station, to walk the trails in the remaining daylight. Common Brown Lemurs feed close to the campsite, just before we encounter a flock of incredible Sickle-billed Vangas. White, with black wings and tail, the largest vanga has an amazing long, decurved pale-grey bill and we watch in awe as they hammer away at an aerial termite nest right above our heads; they easily qualify as one of the best birds of the trip.
 
Moving round to the lake which backs onto the Forest Station the excitement continues with the appearance of a pair of Madagascar Crested Ibis, and after dashing round to the restaurant we obtain the closest of views of these spectacular birds from the veranda! They display a totally unique combination of black head and underparts, rufous back, white wings, red face and straw-coloured crest. The sheer quality of the afternoonís birds is astounding and it is difficult to think of another global location where it could be surpassed.
 
Not wanting to waste any precious time at this great site we fetch torches and set off for a night walk on the trails adjacent to the Forest Station. Two Grey Mouse Lemurs and six Western Avahis boost our lemur total, but it is a Western Tuft-tailed Rat which causes most excitement. Of the genus Eliurus, this rather small rodent is more akin to a dormouse than our familiar Rattus rats, but has a disproportionately long tail that ends in a large bushy tuft. Heís a very obliging chap too, sitting patiently in a low bush to be filmed and photographed.
 
A fine, though mosquito-accompanied, meal is obviously followed by the obligatory celebratory glasses of THB, gin and rum.
 
Thursday 6^th September
Awakening to the lakeside dawn chorus is a great way to start the day. At first light we set off on the trails past the Forest Station, which gradually lead up to the plateau beyond. The trees here are a little taller than the Jarden Botanique area, and understorey a little more dense, though the forest shares the same dry nature with a deep floor-covering of tinder-dry brown leaves.
 
Our route takes us past a group of Coquerelís Sifakas and a hole-roosting Milne-Edwardís Sportive Lemur, as we search for our main goal for the morning, the localised Van Damís Vanga. Nono soon has us chasing a distant calling bird, but it remains in an area of dense forest through which no trails are cut. For half an hour it frustrates us as we readjust our position on the nearest trails, until suddenly a pair of these deep-billed, black-and-white vangas alight in a tree right above our heads!
 
A Rufous Vanga is seen nearby, followed by a tremendously obliging pair of Red-capped Couas which call and parade beside the track in wonderful photographic light. On the return leg of the walk Nono takes us to a roosting Torotoroko Scops-Owl which is happy to allow our close approach, while other notebook-fillers include Coquerelís Coua, Blue Vanga and Grey-headed Lovebird.
 
We consume a quick breakfast back at the Forest Station then, after admiring a group of Mauritian Tomb-Bats in their tree roost at the campsite, take a leisurely cruise around Lake Ravelobe. Our means of transport is a large covered pontoon with a quiet electric motor, making for a very tranquil boating experience. Ravelobe is much smaller in area than we had imagined, no more than 500m across at its widest point, but the timing of our visit at the end of the dry season has clearly reduced the surface area greatly as large expanses of mud surround itís southern limit.
 
The birds present are much the same as those seen distantly on the previous day, with large groups of White-faced Whistling-Ducks congregating on one shoreline and a couple of Madagascar Jacanas trotting between these and clumps of invasive Water Hyacinth. A Madagascar Fish-Eagle, one of the worldís rarest raptors, also sits rather uncomfortably on the mud but a second bird can be seen in a much more photogenic pose on the opposite shore. We cross the lake and the huge Haliaeetus eagle maintains his pose for us to capture definitive footage of brownish-tinged white head, fiercely-hooked grey bill and powerful talons.
 
Taking to the air the broad brown wings give an immense ëflying barn doorí impression, tipped with pale head and short white tail. The pair of Fish-Eagles are just indulging in a bout of courtship when another low-flying raptor whizzes over the boat and materialises into an Eleonoraís Falcon, which really shouldnít be here for over another month-or-more. African Darter and an unexpected flyover of eight Yellow-billed Storks complete the morningís action and we return to the Forest Station for lunch.
 
With all of the target forest species already bagged we decide to spend the late afternoon at Lake Amboromalandy, a site where Mellerís Duck has been recorded in the past. It takes thirty minutes to retrace our incoming route back west, over the long causeway on top of the dam which created the lake, and into Amboromalandy town on the far side. Here a dusty dirt road heads north, past busy market stalls and onwards to follow the western margin of this large expanse of water.
 
In the northwest corner is a largely undisturbed and well-vegetated area where waterbirds can feed in relative solitude. Around a dozen Hottentot Teal, resting amongst the more common Red-billed Teal, are the only ones seen on the trip, but the highlight is undoubtedly the sixteen African Pygmy Geese counted dabbling amongst the lily-packed shallows; the exquisitely-marked males have to be strong contenders for the best ëduckí in the world. A couple of Madagascar Jacanas and a flushed Madagascar Buttonquail complete the selection and we set off back to Ampijoroa, resigned to the fact that Mellerís Duck will not be on our Madagascar menu.
 
The night walk location is the Jarden Botanique where the subtly different habitat, with a lower canopy, means that the Microcebus of the area is the Golden-brown Mouse Lemur. These very active little lemurs clearly have a dense population and we make a double-figure count in our hour-and-a-half visit. Other interesting observations are a single Milne-Edwardís Sportive Lemur and four Western Avahis. The star of the night is found on our return to the Forest Station, when Nono picks out a pair of Mongoose Lemurs feeding low down in the trees right beside the restaurant. This large, attractive lemur is decidedly scarce within its limited range, and Ampijoroa is the only easily accessible site. Mongoose Lemurs have extremely long, dark and bushy tails, with the male showing a bright gingery collar and the female a black face which contrasts with reddish-orange eyes.
 
Celebrations are clearly in order, and it is the Dzama Rum that really does the damage, so much so that when a Big-footed Long-Tailed Mouse appears in the trees right beside the restaurant it is actually identified retrospectively from a photograph!
 
Friday 7^th September
With all the Ampijoroa targets already under the belt and a hangover-or-two in the camp we take a steady walk back to the Plateau area prior to breakfast. Highlights of the bird list are a pair of Van Damís Vangas, typically seen with ease after the previous dayís struggle, Madagascar Green Pigeon, Ashy Cuckoo-Shrike, Blue Vanga and a pair of Madagascar Buttonquail, while mammalian action predictably consists of Coquerelís Sifaka and Milne-Edwardís Sportive Lemur.
 
After a relaxed breakfast bags are packed and a Coquerelís Sifaka appears on the veranda of the chalet to pose for farewell photographs! The journey back to Majunga and early afternoon flight to Tana thankfully hold no surprises, though a delayed departure deposits us into the Capitalís rush hour congestion.
 
The painstaking drive through the traffic gridlock gives us time to soak in local architecture, where three-storey colonial-style houses line the roadside, brick-built with shuttered windows and pot-plant-laden balconies, protected by elaborate wrought-iron railings. Though no doubt grand in their time, years of neglect have left woodwork rotten, paint peeling, iron rusty and a thick layer of grey dust covering every flat surface.
 
Tana is actually built on a series of low hills which rise from a flat waterlogged plain. Lowlands are turned to rice fields, cut by regular filthy-looking canals, while the higher ground is crowded with residential development. After passing countless paddies and winding through endless congested market streets we finally emerge on the eastern side of town to wind our way to towards Perinet.
 
Initially the E2 takes us through uplands, where the constant rise and fall makes progress slow, but in time we drop onto lower ground with correspondingly straighter and faster roads. A couple of brief stops are made at the Mangoro River to check for Madagascar Pratincole, but none have yet returned and the rocks which protrude from the brown water hold just fishermen and multi-coloured washing, drying in the late afternoon sun.
 
Perinet, or Analamazaotra Special Reserve, to give the full title of this area, is another name etched in the memory of anyone who has read about the ornithological wonders of Madagascar, and there is an air of anticipation as we near the site. Unlike Ranomafana, the Reserve is not reached through hectares of pristine native forest and we simply drive off a main road lined with eucalypts and pine to meet our guide at the Feoníny Ala Restaurant.
 
The name Patrice is almost as legendary as Perinet itself, having gained the reputation as the number one bird-finder over many years. Our guideís young looks belie an age in his late 40s and, as we are to find over the next three days, his enthusiasm is absolutely unrelenting! Unfortunately it is almost dark, meaning that a night walk, along the main paved road which leads to Perinet village, is our only option.
 
Although we try to encourage a Madagascar Long-eared Owl to respond, with a mixture of the tape and Patriceís imitation of its barking call, not a sound is heard. The area seems to be a haven for reptiles, however, and we find a number of both Short-horned and Parsonís Chameleons during the hour-long stroll.
 
Dropping off Patrice, we make our way along 6km of rough dirt road to the location of our accommodation for the next three nights. Rounding a tight bend, the sight of the illuminated Vakona Lodge complex, nestling in a natural hollow amongst the trees, is quite an amazing revelation.  At its centre is a huge hexagonal restaurant with a pyramidal tiled roof towering high above, and supported half on stilts above a glass-like lake. On the surrounding hillsides are tasteful rustic chalets, all interlinked by illuminated pathways and bridges across landscaped water features. Rooms are well equipped and the food on which we later dine is of a superb standard; letís hope that the birding is of a similar calibre!
 
Saturday 8^th September
After the now-standard pre-dawn breakfast we are collected by our bus, complete with Patrice, for the forty-five minute drive steadily uphill to Mantadia. The first section of the journey takes us past eucalypt woodland and deforested hillsides, and progress is very slow on the extremely bumpy surface. Eventually we hit the primary forest of Mantadia Nature Reserve, stopping at ëPK 11í, presumably 11km from Perinet village.
 
Patrice sets a quick pace up the steep, narrow trail cut into the mossy forest and we are soon within a known Short-legged Ground-Roller territory, our number-one target bird for the site. Although we obtain some excellent views of a pair of Forest Rock Thrushes, as a Cryptic Warbler sings above us in the canopy, the Ground-Rollers are unresponsive.
 
When the distant, hooted call of our quarry is heard in the direction from which we have just come, we instantly set off in hot pursuit. After making our way back to the main road it is clear that the bird is still some distance away and calling from a high ridge. Without flinching, a camouflage-clad Patrice instantly heads ëoff pisteí and up a steep, slippery bank covered in dense vegetation; itís like birding with Rambo! Climbing steeply uphill, through thick foliage, Patrice moves so quickly that we struggle to keep up and are soon dripping in sweat. The deep call is now getting closer, however, and adrenaline carries us to the ridge top, where we find deep spongy moss underfoot and are surrounded by beautifully lichen-draped tree limbs.
 
With a finally flurry, searching from tree to tree, Patrice finally secures the prize and we set eyes on one of Madagascarís most sought-after birds. Six metres above our heads sits the stocky form of a Short-legged Ground-Roller, perched motionless on a horizontal limb; supporting the convergent evolution theory, this species seems to mirror both the structure and behaviour of South Americaís puffbirds. Thankfully he soon drops down to a perch on the ridge side, so that while still being high in a tree he is now close to eye level, allowing gorgeously intricate markings to be fully savoured and photographed at will.
 
Below a rich purple-rufous crown and nape is a broad white supercillium, arching over a large dark eye and similarly rufous cheeks, neatly speckled with white dots. Streaked, puffy throat feathering is further extended when frequent calls are delivered. Below the streaked throat is a broad white crescent and then a breast heavily barred rufous-and-white. Upperparts have a bronzy gloss and wing coverts are marked with clear-cut white crescents, each bordered in black. Combining subtlety with fabulous detail, when viewed in the amazing setting of lichen-hung boughs on a ridge-top location, this Ground-Roller experience represents a personal highlight of the entire trip.
 
Floating back to the main track on an incredible high, we cannot believe that this monster bird has been our very first tick at Mantadia, in fact at Perinet as a whole; you are meant to struggle with Short-legged Ground-Roller! Back on Planet Earth, Madagascar Spinetails are now skimming the treetops and a Blue Coua hops into a roadside canopy. The bus is summoned and we take a short ride to ëPK14í, where a trail system cuts though a valley bottom.
 
The habitat here contrasts greatly with the relatively bright and airy ridge-top forest, as a winding trail leads us between tall tree ferns into dark, damp and mossy recesses. Almost instantly a Scaly Ground-Roller is heard calling and itís very close by; but surely weíve used up this morningís share of good luck already? Again Patrice races off towards the calling bird and this time we even have the luxury of a trail to follow! Within seconds the bird is located, calling from a moss-covered bough just below head height, this time in a manner identical to that of an Asian pitta.
 
Another Ground-roller, another phenomenal bird! The whole of his head and breast are adorned in pale, black-centred feathers, giving the ëscalyí effect. Thick black stripes both behind and below the eye break up the face, while the nape is rufous and the wing coverts green with neat black-bordered white tips. Even the tail is spectacular, being metallic green-bronze with darker subterminal bar and bright blue tip. Within half an hour we have seen what are arguably the two most spectacular and sought-after birds in Madagascar and have ëcompleted the setí of what is quite possibly the most outstanding bird family in existence! Although a Red-breasted Coua, which calls persistently from just a few metres away in dense undergrowth, fails to show himself we cannot help but feel very pleased with ourselves for the rest of the morning.
 
A bout of lemur-chasing follows, but we fail to secure either target species in the form of Diademed Sifaka or Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur. We have, however, been hearing the distant yet ultra-distinctive calls of Indri all morning. As we descend a steep slope we suddenly find that we are face-to-face with the largest of the living lemurs, the black-and-white, tail-less Indri. The small group has made a rare excursion to ground level, but they soon retreat to their normal treetop environment. Then, totally unexpectedly, they begin to call. The call of an Indri at close quarters is, without doubt, one of the most electrifying natural phenomena one will every experience. The ear-splitting whale-like tones make the hairs on oneís neck rustle and really have to be heard to be believed; incredible!
 
Following Wedge-tailed Jery and Wardís Flycatcher, the lemur action continues when we encounter a particularly photogenic group of Red-bellied Lemurs which munch away at the fronds of a tree fern right beside the track, totally unconcerned by our presence.
 
Returning to the main access road we continue our walk through the forest. It is noticeable that the rough stone surface of the road is now partially coated in a metallic-grey wash, a sign that we are approaching the graphite mining operation which is miraculously allowed to continue within the ëSpecial Reserveí. A muddy and deeply-rutted side track leads uphill to the current mining area, but we stop short of the workings at a tiny roadside pool. Amazingly this large puddle, set at the forest edge, is one of the few known locations for Madagascar Little Grebe. One of the resident pair is seen instantly and is a very impressive bird, closely resembling a miniature breeding-plumaged Red-necked Grebe.
 
A White-throated Rail shares the pool with the Grebes, while the return walk produces such delights as White-headed and Tylas Vangas, Randís Warbler, Ashy-headed Cuckoo Shrike and dazzling breeding plumaged Nelicourvi Weavers, which actually resemble mountain tanagers! The bus has been back downhill to collect lunch and we dine on cheese sandwiches and hard-boiled eggs, while briefly resting aching legs.
 
Relaxation is quickly curtailed when Patrice summons us for the only Grey-crowned Greenbul of the trip, a distinctive little bird likened to an arboreal Appertís. Our circuit of the forest trails also finds Francesís Sparrowhawk, strangely the last Accipiter to fall in spite of being the most widespread, and Green Jery at last. Non-ornithological interest comes in the form of a very impressive Tree Boa curled up beside the track and a group of seven Grey Bamboo Lemurs which are starting to become active, in one of the dense bamboo stands, by late afternoon.
 
A single Madagascar Starling perched high on a bare treetop is rather distant, even through a telescope, but we are pleased to finally see a bird which proves to be a distinctly uncommon species. As the light fades we start to walk back down the main access track, speculatively playing owl tapes as we go. A Collared Nightjar is a nice surprise, but SC gets an even bigger surprise when a miscalculated step, as he attempts to get closer to the bird, brings him up to his waist in foul-smelling, muddy water!
 
Although another two Collared Nightjars perform from trackside perches, the night is distinctly cool and lacking in the wanted owls, or mammals of any description. We therefore decide upon an early retreat back to the Lodge to end the day with another fine meal and THB accompaniment.
 
Sunday 9^th September
As we donít have so far to travel today, breakfast is more leisurely and we even have time to examine the stunning array of moths which have gathered around the outside chalet-lights. Within twenty minutes of leaving Vakona we are at the Analamozotra Visitorsí Centre, having picked up Patrice en route. Beyond the Centre paved tracks lead through eucalypts and pines to the native evergreen forest beyond. The trails take us around pools, and steeply through woodland, as we collect Hook-billed Vanga, Wardís Flycatcher, Green Jery, Velvet Asity, Blue Coua and a pair of obliging Madagascar Wood-Rails.
 
The main target for the morning, however, is Nuthatch Vanga which has remained noticeable by itís absence. After much legwork Patrice finally picks up its subtle call and sets off in pursuit, Rambo-style, with the rest of the party doing our best to keep up! After a fair amount of sweat and panting we finally catch up with a group of these excellent little vangas, which precede to glean up-and-down trunks in true nutchhatch fashion, again demonstrating remarkable convergent evolutionary traits with our northern hemisphere Sittas.
 
A roosting Malagasy Scops-Owl is good to see, though the Diademed Sifaka experience is less pleasurable. The Sifakas at Analamozotra are actually reintroduced to the site and some are adorned with long radio-tracking aerials. Another detraction is the fact that dozens of budding eco-tourists are instantly summoned by their respective guides and materialise from the forest to surround the Sifakas in a frenzy of American-accented admiration and popping camera-flashes!
 
On our walk out of the Reserve a group of Common Brown Lemurs perform admirably, but sadly Patrice fails to locate a roost for either Madagascar Long-eared Owl or Collared Nightjar. Next port of call is the Orchid Garden, a rather odd landscaped pond within natural forest, where Madagascar Kingfisher, Buzzard and Harrier-Hawk are all seen in a brief visit.
 
Lunch is taken at Vakona Lodge, immediately after which we head uphill to the ëLemur Islandí area. At this very sorry tourist attraction a selection of captive lemurs have been released onto a plot of land isolated by a narrow meandering river, and we do our best to ignore the unfortunate animals as we set off into the marshland.
 
Our goal here is Madagascar Rail, but we approach the reedbed habitat with more than a little scepticism, as weíve never had much success in finding rare rails in the middle of the day! We are therefore not particularly surprised when the first site draws a blank, though Rija and Patrice remain very optimistic as we follow a different trail to another section of reedbed. This time the tape receives a rapid response and soon we are watching a pair of Madagascar Rails dart about the closest reeds, even obtaining some reasonable photographs whilst desperately clinging to a very narrow and rickety boardwalk. It seems that the moral of the story is to trust the guide, as clearly anything is possible in Madagascar!
 
Quite remarkably, we are rapidly running out of target birds at Perinet, so in an attempt to secure one of the final few that remain, we make our way back down to the Orchid Garden area. Here we trawl the main road and various side tracks with a Red-breasted Coua tape for an hour without success. Just as all seems lost, a distant but distinctive descending whistle is heard, as the final coua of the set announces his presence. Although the undergrowth is dense, the bird is refreshingly tape-responsive and eventually is tempted into a position where we can all complete our coua lists!
 
A celebration is clearly called-for and as the next stop is already scheduled to be Feoníny Ala Restaurant we take the opportunity to shout up a supply of THBs while we wait for the nightly lemur-feeding session to commence. Banana is smeared onto the base of the Travellerís Palm immediately opposite the veranda on which we sit and a timber pole is positioned against the cable running above, to promote easy lemur access.
 
The excitement mounts until at 18.25 an agile mammalian shape emerges from the darkness along the power cable which runs above the veranda. The Furry-eared Dwarf Lemur stealthily descends the pole and avidly consumes the banana mush, oblivious to the thirty excited onlookers and constant accompaniment of camera flashes. For a ëdwarfí lemur heís quite a hefty beast, the size of a large squirrel, light-brown with long bushy tail and the wide dark eyes typical of the nocturnal members of this family. Our early-season visit means that this is our only real chance of a Cheirogaleus lemur, as this genus enters a prolonged torpor during the austral winter, from which itís congeners are unlikely to have yet risen; we are therefore delighted to add a dwarf lemur to our already impressive list.
 
The next hour is spent along the access road where repeated stops and regular recital of Madagascar Long-eared Owl calls fail to provoke a response, before the lure of a slap-up meal beside the Vakona log fire becomes too much to bear.
 
Monday 10^th September
With the remaining targets of the area now almost exclusively mammalian, our post-breakfast journey takes us back uphill to Mantadia. A brief stop at PK 13 produces a close White-throated Rail and some much better views of two pairs of Madagascar Starlings, this time in low treetops from where they make display flights over the canopy. At PK 14 we disembark for a walk along the access road, where avian highlights include a photogenic Velvet Asity, a large flock of Madagascar Blue Pigeons and a very welcome Madagascar Cuckoo, which is newly arrived from mainland wintering quarters and proudly sits proclaiming his territory from a bare treetop.
 
We are very keen to see ëwildí Diademed Sifakas after the radio-controlled versions on display the previous day, but it takes all of Patriceís skills to track down these elusive lemurs. After several hours on the trails a family group are found feeding in a high treetop, but fortunately a female with an infant descends to allow a prolonged photographic study of these gorgeous animals. Their colouration is a beautifully subtle blend of black, grey, golden-brown and white, making for one of the most impressive lemurs there is.
 
The remainder of our time is devoted to the quest for Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur and takes us on an exhausting hike along a series of ridge tops, but all is sadly to no avail with Nuthatch Vanga being small consolation for our efforts. Fresh Fosa droppings on the trail give an indication of what else is lurking deep in the forest. A meal back down at Feoníny Ala ends our visit to the area for the time being; we will return, however, as flight schedules deliver us back to Tana with a day-and-a-half at our disposal before vacating the country and we have arranged to return to Perinet in order to make the most of every precious hour in Madagascar.
 
We arrive back in Tana just in time to hit the evening rush-hour traffic again, delaying our arrival at the rather odd IC Hotel.  This establishment is shoehorned into shabby residential suburbs close to the airport, and we end the day with dinnertime talk of the mysterious Masoala Peninsular, our destination for the following day.
 
Tuesday 11^th September
The domestic departure lounge of Tana airport is fast becoming a home-from-home, and we take up position for our 07.20 flight to Maroantsetra without having really woken up. Unfortunately Air Madagascar group Maroantsetra with a series of other ëmilk runí destinations and we first head east to Madagascarís principal port town of Toamasina. What makes the circuitous route even more of a chore is the fact that we have to disembark from our aircraft at every destination, for reasons which we never do fathom out!
 
From Toamasina we fly north, actually passing Maroantsetra, and on to Antalaha where a consolation prize are two Humpback Whales, seen from the air as we approach the coastal landing strip. Our 10.20 arrival at Maroantsetra is therefore quite a relief, even making the ëluggage bingoí, played with our bags and associated receipts, a pleasurable experience. We also note that our proximity to the equator has turned the humidity level up a notch or two!
 
Outside the tiny terminal building we load bags into three well-worn taxis and travel in convoy for the twenty-minute drive through orchards, and then Maroantsetra town, to the quay area on the riverside beyond. The sturdy 12 metre fibreglass craft that awaits our arrival is a very pleasant surprise, having read tales of rough crossings and tiny boats; it even has a roof and life jackets!
 
After negotiating the riverís shallows and propeller-clogging hazards of floating Water Hyacinth, our South African skipper, Pierre, opens up the throttles and we hurtle across the smooth Indian Ocean towards the high green shape of Nosy Mangabe, a large forested island which sits in the bay sheltered by the Masoala Peninsular. Not far past Nosy Mangabe the skipper spots a cetacean blow, so we rapidly divert towards its source and are soon enjoying superb close-up views of a pair of Humpback Whales with a young calf, which repeatedly surface in the shallow waters of the bay. Next we travel close past Nosy Ravina, one of Nosy Mangebeís smaller sister islands, where Madagascar Flying Foxes can be seen roosting in the highest treetops; interestingly this sighting represents the only fruit bat encounter of the entire trip.
 
The mysterious dark outline of the Masoala Peninsular can now be seen trailing off into the distance, partially shrouded in mist and low cloud which add to the feeling of mysterious untouched remoteness. This is the largest area of primary forest remaining on the island and remains inaccessible by road, hence necessitating our lengthy boat trip. This lack of access has clearly been the saving grace of this fantastic tract of wilderness and we are pleased to hear that the majority of its area is already protected, with a further huge additional expanse likely to follow the same route very soon.
 
It takes a full hour-and-a-half to reach our destination, in the vicinity of Ambanizana, and remarkably we are still only around a quarter of the way to the tip of the peninsular. Throughout our voyage we are flanked by an unbroken bank of dark-green forest which stretches from the ocean, up steep hillsides, into ominous clouds of contrastingly pale, moisture-laden mist. Ribbons of silvery sand occasionally demarcate the boundary between forest and sea and it is towards such a coral beach that we finally head, to make our landfall.
 
An inflatable dingy is launched to ferry us and our belongings ashore, where we are warmly welcomed to the Masoala Forest Lodge by our friendly Swiss hostess, Sandra (wife of Pierre). This establishment really is exactly how an ecotourism lodge should be. Close to the lapping waters of the Indian Ocean is a large thatched roof dining room, with comfortable sitting areas, where hot coffee and cold beer or wine are constantly on-tap. Beyond the dining area a series of rustic chalets are dotted around a clearing, together with a number of separate toilet and shower huts. Each chalet consists of a large tent covered by a thatched roof, in a style befitting a mainland African safari lodge, which is clearly where the owners have found their inspiration. All is spotlessly clean and well laid-out without being over extravagant, in fact perfect for our requirements.
 
Lunch involves a crabmeat starter followed by the most amazing king prawns cooked in ginger, and after it has had time to settle we head south along the beach to the Tampolo Trail, led by Seraphin and Felix our pair of local guides. Huge black slabs of volcanic rock periodically punctuate the fine golden sands on which we walk, at times creating an obstacle course amongst the crashing breakers. A deep streambed running down to the sea also has to be negotiated, with the highly unstable dugout canoe on which we are ferried almost being more hindrance than help!
 
Cutting inland we enter lowland coastal forest, still sodden from the morningís rain. Various greasy logs cross forest streams, testing out balance and boot-traction to the limit, though the distinct lack of birds at least allows one to concentrate on footholds! Ornithological highlights are our first photogenic Madagascar Blue Pigeon, plus Rufous Vanga, Cuckoo-Roller and a sprinkling of Lesser Vasa Parrots. As is often the case in Madagascar it is a mammal that steals the show, in the form of a spectacular White-fronted Brown Lemur. Heís a male, and thus displays a magnificent creamy-white facial ruff to surround a black face and dazzling orange eyes, while a blackish dorsal stripe contrasts with otherwise chocolate-brown pelage.
 
The light is rapidly fading when we emerge at the far end of the trail and make our way back to the beach. Small offshore islets, topped by the emblematic outlines of Travellers Palms, are silhouetted by a spectacular orange sky, as we watch a huge red sun dip into the waves; this has to be one of the most spectacular settings in the whole of this magnificent Country.
 
A slow walk is taken back through the forest, with numerous torches searching for treetop eye-shine or roosting reptilian forms. Panther Chameleons are located at the trackside and can be studied at close range. A number of obliging Western Avahis pose for the camera, though the two ëMasoalaí Sportive Lemurs remain in a treetop, on the limit of flashgun range. Even Madagascan mammal guru Nick Garbutt will not commit to the identity of Lepilemur lemurs here, whose taxonomy remains in a state of flux as DNA studies continue.
 
Back at the lodge we take a cold shower by the light of a paraffin lamp, or at least the ones who fail to find the bucket of piping hot water in the shadowy shower huts do! A wonderful meal ends the day, with THBs and good white wine straight from the fridge, and once in our tents the sound of lapping waves soon induces a satisfied sleep.
 
Wednesday 12^th September
Masoala is a wet old place. It has rained for most of the night, keeping temperatures surprisingly cool, and showers continue off-and-on during our pre-dawn breakfast. We take our time over the freshly baked bread, scrambled eggs and fruit salad, by which stage the latest rain-clouds have passed, allowing us to commence our northwards walk along the beach.
 
A pair of Humpback Whales fluking offshore are an early highlight, as is the precarious ëferryí system which uses a tiny steel bathtub-of-a-boat to transfer us across a particularly wide stream! It takes us half an hour to reach the foot of the Ambanizana Trail, via a treetop Madagascar Starling, by which time the next shower has swept in and we shelter in thatched huts at the edge of the beach.
 
When the next break in the dark grey clouds moves above us we set off on the trail which winds steeply uphill and into the dark wet forest. Birding is hard work, as is often the case in such humid lowland forest environments, with Nelicourvi Weaver, Wardís Flycatcher and Blue plus White-headed Vangas all that we have to show for several hours on the trails. Brolleys are regularly unfurled in the face of showers and some prolonged bouts of very heavy rain, and spirits fall correspondingly.
 
Helmet Vanga is now our sole target bird and we are starting to get very worried about the chances of finding one in the deteriorating weather. One of the guides is sent back to collect some lunch as we are reluctant to waste precious time in the field, though we doubt our own sanity as we stand under dripping brolleys awaiting his return.
 
The morningís single high point is a pair of Red Ruffed Lemurs which huddle in a damp treetop, high above our heads. This is yet another lemur species with a tiny range, centred on the Masoala Peninsular. Even when dripping wet these creatures look impressive, with deep chestnut-red ruff surrounding black face, similarly-coloured body and a very long black tail; heaven knows how good theyíd look in the sunshine!
 
The returning packed lunch is met at the beach huts, where we scoff improvised banana sandwiches and hardboiled eggs, whilst trying to dry off clothing under the very first sunshine of the day. Slightly reinvigorated we set off back up the hillside, picking up Red-breasted Coua, plus Grey Bamboo and White-fronted Brown Lemurs, before the next shower sets in and brolleys re-emerge.
 
And so the scene is set for the remainder of the day, as we trudge around the wet trails until dark. Nuthatch Vanga is the only real bird of note and spirits drop to such a soggy low that we canít even raise the energy and enthusiasm for a night walk for the first time on the whole trip; even the THBs lack their normal appeal this evening.
Thursday 13^th September
Today it is going to be make-or-break, as we depart early tomorrow and will have no time for birding. The rain beating on the thatched roof, as we breakfast in the gathering light, doesnít bode well and weíre in no hurry to set off for Ambanizana. At 05.40 it is just getting light, and most of us are more interested in strong coffee than birds, when a muffled cry goes up. It is followed by a shout of ìHelmet Vanga!î from close by the dining room and a small posse of headless chickens fall out of the shelter to dash madly across the wet grass.
 
The highly-distinctive dark form of a Helmet Vanga is clearly visible in the centre of a sparse bush at the edge of the compound, with rufous back, pale iris and ridiculously oversized blue bill shining through the dullness. After just ten seconds he flies out of the bush and over our heads, just like a small toucanet, and is never seen again. A feeling of elated disbelief fills the small gathering. We have spent an entire day in prime Helmet Vanga habitat, thrashing trails in the pouring rain and seeing nothing, then our quarry lands in a tree next to the dining room; talk about bloody lucky!
 
The best birding site is still the Ambanizana Trail, so we again head north through the rain showers. A good half of the morning is again spent with brolleys unfurled and birding is predictably hard work. An obliging Red-breasted Coua and a pair of Madagascar Pygmy Kingfishers are the avian highlights, while we also get second helpings of yesterdayís excellent Red Ruffed Lemurs.
 
The inclement weather makes the chances of more rare vangas unlikely and we head back to the Lodge for lunch, pulling in an impressive Banded Kestrel en route. It continues to rain for most of the afternoon with a sodden low-level Madagascar Green Pigeon, right beside the dining room, being the only distraction from the downpour.
 
Only a few brave souls make the night walk on the Tampolo Trail, and it is no surprise that this is conducted mainly under the cover of a brolley. It does, however, produce Lowland Forest Rat, Madagascar Crested Ibis and Malagasy Scops Owl in the twilight outward journey. After true darkness descends we find four Eastern Avahis and another three ëMasoalaí Sportive Lemurs, one of which even poses at low altitude for photographs. Final coup is a Horned Leaf Chameleon Brookesia superciliaris, which possess amazing head projections reminiscent of a miniature Triceratops!
 
Although we have obviously been very lucky to catch up with our single Helmet Vanga, we are left rather frustrated at not having gained more prolonged views, or a single photograph. We have also been cursed with the weather, getting three weeks of Malagasy rain in one foul swoop, though it seems that such a phenomenon is not particularly uncommon here. It is also a hell-of-a-chore to get to this remote outpost, essentially on the strength of a single bird, and our advice is to seriously weigh up the pros and cons before adding this particular leg to any proposed itinerary, especially one of limited duration.
 
Friday 14^th September
An 05.00 breakfast precedes our 05.30 boat, necessitated by an early flight out of Maroantsetra. This time we all set off fully waterproofed and anticipating a wet and bumpy ride, yet the skipper manages to steer us on a flat and uneventful course. And quite amazingly it isnít raining!
 
Another short taxi ride returns us to the airport, or at least to an empty hall which we hope will spring into life before too long. After a few strong coffees, an assortment of passengers drift in and our 08.30 flight is only an hour-or-so late; punctuality and Air Madagascar are not words which sit easily together. The flight back to Tana is simply the outbound ëmilk runí in reverse order, only enlightened by Alpine Swifts and a displaying Cuckoo-Roller at the Antalaha stop-off.
 
A bus awaits our arrival at Tana and itís full steam ahead to Perinet, via a supermarket for some dinner to munch on-the-hoof. There are still no praticoles to delay us at the Mangoro River and we arrive at Perinet at 17.30, not long before dark. With Patrice guiding another group, we have arranged for his brother Luc to accompany us for our remaining evening and morning in the area. Luc is a very different character to his brother, lacking Patriceís relentless enthusiasm and often-manic determination (which some may say is a plus point!), but in his own way proves to be just as capable a bird-finder.
 
When we arrived at Perinet for the first time we gave Patrice a hit list of at least a dozen birds. This time Lucís list has just one, Madagascar Long-eared Owl. Our phenomenal successes have left us with just one potential tick at this site, putting the pressure on our willing guide! Apparently Luc has seen a Madagascar Long-eared Owl fly over the main road close to the Orchid Garden on the previous evening and we take up position in close proximity to this site as darkness descends.
 
Pulses quicken when a response is given to our rendition of the owlís barking call and a sprint up the road ensues. After a large owl-shape crosses the road in the distance we make a rapid detour to the rear of the Analamozotra Visitorsí Centre, but our owl outwits us and re-crosses the road into dense forest from where he utters a few calls before becoming silent. We have clearly blown our chances and have to make do with a walk down the road with spotlights, which produces a Furry-eared Dwarf Lemur not far from the Orchid Garden entrance.
 
Tonightís accommodation is at the Eulophiella Lodge which is situated off the main E2 road, around twenty minutes drive away. It is accessed via a long rough drive lined with eucalypts, and as we negotiate a straight section an owl is flushed and flies for several seconds in the bus headlights. Miraculously all on board get clear binocular views of what is clearly an Asio, long-winged and with obvious dark carpal patches; we have secured our Madagascar Long-eared Owl! Just when our Malagasy luck appears to have deserted us it returns with a vengeance, meaning that pre-dawn owling is no longer a necessity and we can enjoy tomorrowís breakfast.
 
Eulophiella Lodge is another luxurious establishment, where a large modern dining area is set in manicured grounds, with separate chalets placed around the periphery. Although the plumbing and mosquito protection in the chalets is found to be a little wanting, the open fire and fine cuisine in the restaurant make up for these shortcomings.
 
After dining, a determined few of us set out for our final Malagasy night walk, in a patch of primary forest which backs onto the Lodge. The undergrowth is very dense and makes picking out mammalian eye-shine a tricky proposition, but with perseverance we secure a great view of our target, the recently described Goodfellowís Mouse Lemur. This extremely agile little chap has the accolade of becoming the 26^th and final lemur species of our incredibly successful mammal-watching trip.
 
Saturday 15^th September
Itís always a revelation to wake up in unfamiliar surroundings reached in the dead of night and find out what the area actually looks like. The clearing in which Eulophiella Lodge stands is at the boundary of eucalypt plantations and a block of natural forest stretching over low hillsides, which is clearly where we scrambled around looking for mouse lemurs the previous evening. The close proximity to the forest means that a series of interesting birds visit the gardens, and after breakfast we spend time photographing Madagascar Bee-eaters, Madagascar Coucal and some particularly impressive Madagascar Starlings.
 
The ethics of whether or not a certain bird is ëtickableí are a subject that is debated long and hard at some point on every birding trip. ëUntickable viewsí is a phrase that appears in many a trip report, and it is certainly true that one mans ëuntickable viewí is a welcome addition to another manís list, depending upon his morals; and the rarer the bird the more these morals may often sway!
Although every one of us now has Madagascar Long-eared Owl on our lists, we have actually seen an Asio flying away from us in the headlights. Owls are invariably one of the highlights of any trip, always holding an enigmatic quality and without exception incredibly impressive creatures if seen well. So when we arrive at the Analamozotra Visitorsí Centre at 07.30 and Luc tells us that he has tracked down a roosting Madagascar Long-eared Owl for us itís a good as being told that we have a tick lined up!
 
Amazingly Luc taped in the owl just before dawn and then followed it through the dense pines to itís roosting site. Around Perinet news travels fast between guides and roosting birds are often flushed by groups eager for better views, so Luc actually keeps his news quiet until we are out of earshot of his cohorts. Not far down the road from the Visitorsí Centre we enter the dense pinewoods and walk several hundred metres through the trees. Itís impressive that Luc can re-find the roosting bird in the seemingly identical trees; to have located it in the first place is a phenomenal feat of skill!
 
Our owl is perched about 8m up on a horizontal pine branch, but thankfully in the open, allowing excellent looks at this awesome creature. The first thing to impress is the size, as a Madagascar Long-eared Owl is a good piece larger than our Northern Hemisphere version, actually being between Northern Long-eared Owl and Eurasian Eagle Owl in size. Large bushy ear-tufts are raised at forty-five degrees above a well-defined facial disk, and large eyes whose dark irises seem out-of-place on an Asio. Pale sandy-brown underparts are heavily marked with dark streaks and crossbars, making for one very impressive owl; the experience is almost as good as seeing one flying away in the headlights!
 
MK has an earlier flight than the rest of the party, and an early taxi booked, so we make rapid tracks to the Collared Nightjar roost site with fingers crossed. Glancing at a singing Randís Warbler en route, we are very pleased to find that this time the Collared Nightjars are in place, with two birds huddled close together on a low branch. Such paired roosting seems to be unique to this species, and is presumably a tactic to avoid predation by breaking up the more obvious outline of a single roosting bird. The exquisite markings of a Collared Nightjar, quite possibly the most impressive representative of the whole family, could fill several descriptive paragraphs on their own; suffice to say they are yet another highlight of a trip already awash with unforgettable moments.
 
At this point MK departs to catch his taxi and the forest falls strangely silent! Our walk around Analamozotra is decidedly leisurely now that we have collected every possible bird at this site. A group of Nuthatch Vangas oblige by feeding low on trunks and we note our last Hook-billed and Red-tailed Vangas of the trip.
 
A final morning in Madagascar would not be complete without its lemurs. A party of Common Brown Lemurs provide the support act but the stars are the Indris. Standing below a group of Indris in spine-tingling full cry has to be the perfect way to end a trip to this incomparable island and it is with that memory that we conclude our time in the forest. After a lunch at Feoníny Ala itís time to start the long trek back to Tana in order to connect with our 21.25 flight back to Europe.
 
After a routine drive back to Tana all that remains is to convey our thanks and fond Farewells to Rija, who has played an enormous part in making the trip so incredibly successful and immensely enjoyable. Without his organisational skills, bird-finding prowess and constant good humour the previous three weeks would not have been half as pleasurable, and we are deeply indebted to him for all that he has done. Thanks must also go to Birding Africa (www.birdingafrica.com), for helping to put together and facilitating what has to be the definitive three-week Madagascar itinerary.
 
Visiting Madagascar in the September slot that was chosen, well before most of the bird tour companies arrive, was quite a risk in terms of connecting with our long list of target species. As it turned out, it is difficult to think of how things could have been more successful; we have actually seen every ëavailableí resident endemic species! It is sad that Mellerís Duck now appears to be so rare that it cannot be located without a specific trip to one of a few known sites. It has joined the ranks of Amber Mountain Rock Thrush, Red-tailed Newtonia and Sakalava Rail, meaning that an extra couple of weeks would be needed to eek out these remaining remote range-restricted endemics. Bernierís Vanga is occasionally seen on the Masoala Peninsular but remains elusive and enigmatic. As for the likes of Madagascar Serpent Eagle and Madagascar Red Owl, these mythical beasts of the lowland forests seem tremendously difficult to locate if one is not a researcher with several years on his hands.  (Though it should be noted that a Madagascar Serpent Eagle nest was actually located, on the Masoala Peninsular, by the Peregrine Fund in November 2007). Slender-billed Flufftail is best placed in the same near-impossible-to-see category, though it will be interesting to see what develops in terms of accessibility to the recently rediscovered Madagascar Pochard.
 
The absence of Reunion Harrier from our list is the biggest disappointment, though one of our party had already seen it on the island from which it gained itís name, where it is not uncommon. Our early-season trip also meant that neither Madagascar Pratincole or Pond Heron had arrived from their mainland wintering quarters. Fortunately two of us had previously seen the Pratincole on the Kenyan Coast where it is present in good numbers at the appropriate time of year, while the Pond Heron remains see-able in a number of East African countries during the Austral winter.
 
More importantly, we have seen all five ground-rollers, three mesites, two asites and two sunbird-asites, ten couas and all-but-one vanga in an virtual ornithological clean-up. Mammals have been just as exciting a feature as the birds and our fantastic total of 26 lemur species, plus such amazing creatures as Fanaloka and Ring-tailed Mongoose, vie with the incredible birds for top spot in terms of trip highlights. Our advice to the potential visitor is therefore to seriously consider an August/September visit, which should potentially avoid the birding crowds and the wettest of the weather, whilst still providing all of the most sought-after species.
 
We found another incredible feature of a visit to Madagascar to be the fact that everything, almost without exception, can be seen so well; it is difficult to think of a country where so many totally stunning birds and mammals can be viewed so brilliantly, as demonstrated by the ridiculously large number of images brought home, which are set to keep us in front of computer screens for most of the forthcoming winter!
 
Our extensive travels showed how Madagascar has sadly witnessed more than itís fair share of habitat destruction but on a positive note, what little natural habitat that is left is often well protected. Organisations such as the Wildlife Conservation Society and Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust are investing large sums of money in protecting the remaining habitat and also in education of the local population in sustainable agricultural techniques. One hopes that by visiting such protected areas, and thereby proving to the local population the importance and potential financial value of their natural environment, conservation frontiers may be pushed a little further.

Ian Merrill    October 2007 i.merrill@btopenworld.com              http://uk.geocities.com/i.merrill@btopenworld.com/default.htm