Day 1 (9th May)
We assembled in Madrid airport for the 5th Naturetrek Extremadura & Sierra Gredos tour and having collected the mini buses drove towards Trujillo. The trip took about 3 hours. Near the River Tajo 2 Black Vultures put in a good show and we arrived in good humour at the Finca Santa Marta in time for supper.
In honour of the famous visiting bird artist, Robert Bateman; a post dinner talk on the birds of Extremadura was put on by one of the local bird photographers, Steve Fletcher (http://extremaduraphotos.webs.com/apps/photos/). Gorgeous photographs of birds we hoped to see during the following few days which whetted our appetites for what was to come.
Day 2. (10th May)
Prior to breakfast some in the group explored the beautiful courtyard gardens, wild flower meadows and fruit orchards of the Finca. Our early risers were also rewarded with several Golden Orioles, Hoopoes, Iberian Azure winged Magpie, Woodchat Shrike, Crested Lark and Nightingale. Following breakfast we made a beeline for Belen plains, which has always been one of the most reliable sites for both Bustards. Between the peacefully grazing cattle and numerous flitting Calandra Larks was a glorious tapestry of flowers. We quickly found a drove of majestic Great Bustards. Raptors and White Storks were making the most of the thermals. The first of several Booted Eagles came over, followed shortly by a Short toed Eagle, an adult and immature Egyptian Vulture, Griffon Vultures and Red and Black Kites. In total we saw 20-25 Great Bustards, Great Spotted Cuckoo and Bee-eater.
Following lunch at the Bullring in Trujillo, in the shade of a beautiful Indian Bead Tree and accompanied by numerous Lesser Kestrels and Spotless Starlings we set off for Santa Marta de Malagasca in search of more steppe species. A walk produced an obliging Southern Grey Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, perched Cuckoo, a male Montagus Harrier, more Calandra Larks and a fantastic fly by of 6 Great Bustards.
We retreated back to the Finca for a short rest prior to dinner in Trujillo. Instead of a walk around the town we opted to return briefly to Belen. The late afternoon light was perfect but more Great Bustards appeared to be the only trophies. Somewhat disappointed we were heading back a hovering Black shouldered Kite was found near Havannah. As we got out of the van to view the bird suddenly 8 Little Bustards popped their heads up from the grass and started displaying! Magnificent! Slightly late but very happy, we headed towards Trujillo and the excellent Restaurante Pillete in the towns medieval and very picturesque main square where we enjoyed a well earned meal.
Arriving back at the Finca under a bowl of brilliant stars a few of us decided to try our luck night birding and succeeded in enticing a Scops Owl.
Day 3 (11th May)
After the optional pre breakfast birding around the Finca and a quick stop for picnic provisions we headed towards Monfrague We stopped at Arroyo de la Vid and soon saw our first Rock Bunting, we also enjoyed Crag Martins, and perched Red rumped Swallows. Unfortunately our birding was disrupted by heavy rain so we drove on through pouring rain into the heart of Monfrague past stranded Griffon Vultures at Penafalcon.
We chose an undercover picnic site in Villarreal de San Carlos and as lunch was being prepared the sun came out and we were entertained by Golden Orioles, Woodlark, more Crested Larks, Booted Eagle, Nightingale, and Woodchat Shrike.
Heavy showers interspaced with brilliant sun shine continued for the rest of the day. Following lunch we decided to try the Plasencia Road which looked a little brighter. This proved to be a good move. The first stop produced a couple of Subalpine Warblers whilst the second produced a fine adult Bonellis Eagle, 4 Black Vultures and some bedraggled Griffons drying their wings like cormorants in the sun between the showers. The tough raptors were falling fast despite the unsettled weather.
We stopped near Fuente de los Tres Canos. Just before pulling off the road a couple of Dartford Warblers and a glorious male Spectacled Warbler put in a showing.
We moved to the Portilla de Tietar & almost as soon as we arrived the sun came out and we had an incredible view of a perched adult Spanish Imperial Eagle. Imperial was certainly the right adjective to describe this imposing creature glaring arrogantly at us down its aquiline nose. Not only could we see its eyes, we could see its talons gripping the ledge! A jaw dropping view!
The Eagle Owl chicks had unfortunately fledged and could not be located despite an industrious search. However, we were consoled by great views of a fine male Blue Rock Thrush, a nesting Subalpine Warbler, Rock Bunting, Turtle Dove and 2 Black Storks. Our departure from the Portilla was stopped short by a wet looking Red Fox scavenging for a meal at one of the picnic sites. A Southern Grey Shrike was one of the last birds we saw as we exited the park
In view of the weather conditions we postponed all attempts to get up to the top of Monfrague Castle till the following day.
Day 4 (12th May)
We began with an optional pre-breakfast run for Belen plains. We found 6 Great Bustards including one which delighted us with a ‘foam bath’ display. 4 Little Bustards soared over head in a display flight and a couple of Thekla Larks posed obligingly. The usual supporting cast of Calandra & Crested Larks, Griffons Vultures, Storks, Kites and a couple of Bee-eaters made the early morning trip worthwhile.
We headed towards the Caceres end of the Northern Steppes for some steppe birding. As soon as we arrived at our destination near the old Km 31 turn off in the Mudderman guide, we found a group of 14 Great Bustards, and then another group of 10. The Rollers preformed on queue and even ‘Rolled’ by to prove that we really hadn’t nailed them to the telegraph posts. A Short toed Eagle was scouring the steppes for its next reptilian feast, and there were good numbers of Clouded Yellow Butterflies.
The heat haze was becoming a problem and we moved on through the rolling hills of the Dehesa to find a sunny picnic spot by the River Magasca, but not before stopping at a colony of Montagu Harriers, which gave us a fine aerial display.
Whilst lunch was being prepared, Bee-eaters burbled above and Golden Orioles fluted to us from across the river. A notable botanical find was Tassel Hyacinth and there were several Kingfishers on view between courses as well as several Iberian Wall Lizards. A pair of Little Ringed Plovers must have been nesting nearby; Crag Martins & Red Rumped Swallow were in constant view. Hoopoe, Serin, Melodious & Sardinean Warbler all put in an appearance
We really wanted to be up the top of Monfrague Castle for 5pm but the birding had held us up. We stopped briefly at the Rio Almonte but failed to connect with Black Wheatear, we did however have an eye to eye view of a perched Short toed Eagle. A little further, near Monroy, we found Spanish Sparrows nesting beneath the nests of a group of White Storks. The storks had chosen a grove of Stone Pines and looked amusingly as if their nests were balanced precariously on top of a bunch of green fuzzy lollipops!
Keen to get to the top of the castle quickly for our raptor spectacular we drove straight to the end of the road at the foot of Monfrague castle. As we pulled up to park we had fine views of a male Ocellated Lizard sunning itself on a rock. After a steep climb up to the castle roof we were amply rewarded with stunning panoramic views across the Steppes in the brilliant afternoon sunlight. What an incredible place this is; where Griffon Vultures soar above and below you, spiraling in so closely that you can see with the naked eye, the wind ruffling the feathers on their backs. A pair of Choughs, Egyptian Vulture, Short toed Eagle, and a couple of Hawfinches were the supporting cast. On the way down we also had very close views of a Western Horseshoe Whipsnake.
After dinner at the Finca the botanists twitched a Broomrape- a strange brown parasitic plant and the birders discovered Red necked Nightjars were displaying. Once again a couple of Scops Owls serenaded us to sleep.
Day 5 (13th May)
Our final day at the Finca we tried our luck in the Madrigalejo Rice Fields. Only two others were able to make it for the early start. We were only 5 minutes from the Finca when a huge owl flew over the road. It could only have been an Eagle Owl. This was going to take some explaining! Further enquiries with the local birders confirmed that they were indeed in the vicinity.
We headed towards Fernando V and found a pond with about 10 Collared Pratincoles and an assortment of common waders, several flocks of Red Adadavats and a few Tree Sparrows. We were running short of time and had to head back, but not before stopping for magnificent views of a male Marsh Harrier hunting along a ditch at the side of the road.
A hurried breakfast, followed by a quick stop at the supermarket we drove in brilliant sunshine to the Arroyocampo Reservoir. As we approached the first hide we could hear the prehistoric croaks of the Purple Swamp-hens as they wove between the reed beds their jeweled metallic feathers glistening in the sun. We enjoyed several hours at leisure here exploring the reserve in the company of Purple Herons, Spoonbill, Gull billed Terns, Little Terns, and Great Reed Warblers. Amongst the half dozen raptors seen during lunch was a sub adult Spanish Imperial Eagle. After lunch we drove from the hot dusty plains up into the foot hills of the Sierra Gredos. Some sharp eyed passengers managed to spot Spanish Ibex amongst the crags en route. We arrived at the El Milano Real Hotel in good time for dinner.
Day 6 (14th May)
Following breakfast and a quick visit to the supermarket for lunch provisions we set off towards La Plataforma. Blessed once more with brilliant sunshine we took a slow drive along the winding alpine road .Even before we hit the main road from the hotel a pair of Rock Sparrows landed within about 10 feet of the first minibus. It wasn’t long before we had to brake once again when a flock of Crossbill landed next to us on a road side Mountain Ash. We arrived at La Platforma and were greeted by Spanish Ibex, Rock Buntings, the Spanish race of Yellow Wagtail and …. a displaying male Rufous tailed Rock Thrush! We slowly walked up towards our site for Bluethroat. On route we picked up Schreiber’s Green Lizard. We also saw Ortolan Bunting and several more Rufous tailed Rock Thrushes. There were anxious moments when the Bluethroats didn’t materialize, but then distantly one was found singing. Over the next 20-30 minutes the bird gave us its mind blowing parachute song flight with both legs hanging vertically downwards as it drops out of the sky!
Heading back to the car park for our picnic lunch we came across a Water Pipit, several Iberian Rock Lizards and a large flock of Red billed Choughs. Rock & Ortolan Bunting waited in the aisles for our crumbs in the car park.
We were on the move again but not for long. Our path was impeded by a group of 35+ Spanish Ibex of various ages. They gave us excellent views until they were moved on by the Park Ranger.
We descended to Puente del Durque and an idylic wooded valley and meandering river bordered by alpine meadows full of butterflies and lizards basking in the afternoon sun Amongst the goodies was a fantastic Green underwing Blue, Spanish Festoons, and many Queen of Spain Fritillaries. Several Pied Flycatchers of the Iberian race, loads of Firecrest, Dipper and Short toed Treecreepers. It was difficult to leave this lovely spot but finally we staggered back to the hotel, tired happy and a little sun burnt for another fantastic meal.
Day 7 (15th May)
The last birding day in this exquisite region deserved a final early morning foray. Few made it out for the dawn run, but those who did were rewarded with a male Black eared Wheatear, singing Melodious Warblers , Ortolan Bunting, a couple of Golden Orioles, 2 Red Squirrels squabbling and a Hobby mobbing a crow through the woods.
After breakfast we headed to the Parador where it didn’t take us long to find a female Citril Finch feeding in the shade allowing scope views and 3 fine Ocellated Lizards and a Hummingbird Hawk Moth.. The walk through the woods below the Parador produced several Crested Tits, Bonelli’s Warbler, more Short toed Treecreepers, a cryptic Red Squirrel and best of all our first Honey Buzzards of the trip. To cap it all on the way back to the car park a male Citril Finch showed well to most of the group.
We headed towards Bonelli’s Wood stopping to check the field for the Black eared Wheatear … and there he was with his mate! A couple more Melodious Warblers and fly by Orioles later we finally made it to our picnic spot in Bonellis Wood. Whilst lunch was prepared the group explored a forest full of singing Bonelli’s Warblers. This year’s lunch time raptor was a fine pale phase Honey Buzzard which gave us brilliant views.
Another Schreibers Green Lizard was found and a couple of people were lucky enough to connect with a pair of Hobbies. It was with great regret we left this beautiful wood to head back to our hotel.
Day 8 (16th May)
An early morning breakfast and we hit the road for the airport. The journey produced some decent birds including the only Peregrine of the trip. We checked in at Madrid Airport and so ended the 5th Extremadura & Sierra Gredos Naturetrek tour.
We saw most of our target species, equalled last years record raptor haul of 19 species and just piped our previous record trip list with 148 species. Having said that, there were some omissions and our target is clearly set on breaking the 150 mark next year.
For a more detailed report check the Naturetrek website at: http://www.naturetrek.co.uk/wildlife-holidays-in-europe/detailsdb.asp?ID=310
For images from the trip click here http://extremaduraphotos.webs.com/apps/photos/ Naturetrek trip report
1. Great Crested Grebe
2. Little Grebe
3. Black Crowned Night Heron
4. Little Bittern
5. Cattle Egret
6. Little Egret
7. Great White Egret
8. Grey Heron
9. Purple Heron
10. Black Stork
11. Spoonbill
12. White Stork
13. Mallard
14. Gadwall
15. Black-shouldered Kite
16. Black Kite
17. Red Kite
18. Egyptian Vulture
19. Black Vulture
20. Griffon Vulture
21. Montagu's Harrier
22. Marsh Harrier
23. Sparrowhawk
24. Honey Buzzard
25. Common Buzzard
26. Spanish Imperial Eagle
27. Bonelli’s Eagle
28. Booted Eagle
29. Short-toed Eagle
30. Common Kestrel
31. Lesser Kestrel
32. Hobby
33. Peregrine Falcon
34. Red-legged Partridge
35. Moorhen
36. Coot
37. Purple Swamp-hen
38. Great Bustard
39. Little Bustard
40. Black-winged Stilt
41. Lapwing
42. Collared Pratincole
43. Ringed Plover
44. Little Ringed Plover
45. Common Sandpiper
46. Green Sandpiper
47. Black Headed Gull
48. Little Tern
49. Gull Billed Tern
50. Wood Pigeon
51. Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon
52. Collared Dove
53. Turtle Dove
54. Cuckoo
55. Great Spotted Cuckoo
56. Red necked Nightjar
57. Eagle Owl
58. Little Owl
59. Scops Owl
60. Common Swift
61. Kingfisher
62. Bee-eater
63. Roller
64. Hoopoe
65. Iberian Green Woodpecker
66. Great-spotted Woodpecker
67. Woodlark
68. Skylark
69. Crested Lark
70. Thekla Lark
71. Calandra Lark
72. Crag Martin
73. Sand Martin
74. Red-rumped Swallow
75. Swallow
76. House Martin
77. Meadow Pipit
78. Water Pipit
79. White Wagtail
80. Grey Wagtail
81. Yellow (Iberian) Wagtail
82. Wren
83. Dipper
84. Dunnock
85. Robin
86. Nightingale
87. Bluethroat
88. Black Redstart
89. Stonechat
90. Northern Wheatear
91. Black-eared Wheatear
92. Rock Thrush
93. Blue Rock Thrush
94. Blackbird
95. Mistle Thrush
96. Song Thrush
97. Savi's Warbler
98. Zitting Cisticola
99. Cetti's Warbler
100. Reed Warbler
101. Great Reed Warbler
102. Melodious Warbler
103. Spectacled Warbler
104. Dartford Warbler
105. Subalpine Warbler
106. Garden Warbler
107. Whitethroat
108. Blackcap
109. Sardinian Warbler
110. Bonelli’s Warbler
111. Firecrest
112. Iberian Pied Flycacher
113. Crested Tit
114. Blue Tit
115. Great Tit
116. Coal Tit
117. Long-tailed Tit
118. Nuthatch
119. Short-toed Treecreeper
120. Southern Grey Shrike
121. Woodchat Shrike
122. Spotless Starling
123. Golden Oriole
124. Jay
125. Magpie
126. Iberian Azure-winged Magpie
127. Chough
128. Jackdaw
129. Raven
130. Carrion Crow
131. House Sparrow
132. Tree Sparrow
133. Spanish Sparrow
134. Rock Sparrow
135. Chaffinch
136. Hawfinch
137. Serin
138. Greenfinch
139. Goldfinch
140. Linnet
141. Crossbill
142. Siskin
143. Citril Finch
144. Corn Bunting
145. Ortolan Bunting
146. Cirl Bunting
147. Rock Bunting
148. Red Adadavat