The near environs of Madrid have long been known for their ability to produce great birding, offering the visiting birder the opportunity to observe a wide diversity of superb species in a short space of time. With the assistance of local Brit guide John Muddenham I put Madrid to the test at perhaps the toughest time of year – the end of July - but unsurprisingly Madrid, or perhaps I should say John, delivered and in abundance. This is the diary of a day's birding out of Madrid. The date - 24th July 2009.
We left Madrid at 8am, leaving behind groups of noisy Monk Parakeets, rising from their roost sites and heading for their feeding stations. We were heading north to the locale of the Great Bustard, some 40mins out of Madrid. An area of farmland, ploughed fields, set-aside and olive groves.
Within moments of pulling the car over and stepping out onto the dusty track (more by luck than good field craft) I picked up two heads amongst the long grass - Little Bustards! Two females moving through the back of the field - I watched them for a minute or so (bringing back memories of the last time I had seen this species in the Crau in the Camargue) as they intermittantly appeared and disappeared, before John called my attention to a distant, dingy Southern Grey Shrike atop a bush. And then a sub-adult male Montagu's Harrier appeared, as if by magic, and drifted across the field giving wonderful views. But no sign of any Great Bustards yet and further scanning produced no further views of those Little Bustards again.
Back in the car, a few hundred yards further up the track and another quick stop for a party of Red-legged Partridge (they're genuine here), then another, drive-past, Southern Grey Shrike, a further stop for a juvenile Woodchat Shrike and then a further 1 kilometre down the road - and there they were - distant but no mistaking them - some 15 graceful Great Bustards striding through the fields like ostriches on the African plain. As we watched them we actually realised there were a further half-a-dozen birds in fields behind and then another male Montagu's Harrier (and this time with his partner) started hunting along the field edge. John wandered over to the other side of the road to call Short-toed Lark as three birds flew overhead, and then to find two magnificent Stone Curlews affording great views in the adjacent olive grove.
We drove on down the track and another Great Bustard flew over just yards in front of the car giving enthralling views before dropping into a field where a further eight birds were already feeding. Fantastic!
And so, on to our next destination, with drive-past, fly-over Hoopoe, Golden Oriole and Crested Lark. John pulled up near the entrance to the gorge where two Golden Eagles soared overhead, followed by a couple of Griffon Vultures and a party of 'creklas' including at least one good Thekla Lark. As we were sifting through the larks, John called a pale-phase Booted Eagle from overhead.
Back in the car and up into the hills for another stop. At least 4 adult Woodchats immediately made their presence known and then the target bird, a rather dingy, female or immature Black-eared Wheatear. And then John called yet another great bird - a male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush sitting in a bush on the skyline that offered tremendous views. This was a species that had eluded me despite numerous visits into suitable habitat in Europe. Even John was elated at this find at such a low altitude. On the wires nearby was another Southern Grey Shrike and a single Bee-eater.
Onto the gorge where we parked the car by the bridge, watching Crag Martins and Rock Buntings and a few fly-over Rock Sparrows, but unfortunately we never got one of the latter on the deck. As we walked into the village we picked up a pair of Melodious Warblers, Black Redstarts, Woodchats, at least 4 noisy Azure-winged Magpies, and a smart Blue Rock Thrush. A dozen Bee-eaters flew around the gorge including one bird returning to its nest scraped into the side of the field. A handful of Spotless Starlings flew over. Cirl Buntings and a Nightingale called but evaded being seen. On the walk back another presumed Thekla Lark was picked up on the roof of a farm building overlooking the bridge.
Back in the car and as we drove back down a very smart (this time) male Black-eared Wheatear popped up on the roof of a shed by the side of the road to offer great views.
We arrived at the lakeside with a showy Serin touching down by the car briefly. A scan of the shoreline produced c.50 Redshanks, a Green Sandpiper, Black-headed Gull and Great Crested Grebe. It could have been the UK! A beautiful Red Kite, followed in its wake by a Black Kite and then a noisy Iberian Yellow Wagtail dispatched any thoughts of homeland birding. And then I locked onto a strange rakish, immature gull. But it drifted down to the far end of the lake as we both looked puzzled and John suggested the near impossible - a juvenile Auduoin's Gull.
We returned to lake watching - very sensible as a Black Vulture drifted overhead, along with a paler, dark phase (this time) Booted Eagle. And then a Common Sandpiper and a Little Ringed Plover (with attitude). And then the gull returned, this time with a sub-adult Yellow-legged Gull and this time offering prolonged, close views as it flew around before alighting on the water in front of us - no doubt, a juvenile Auduoin's Gull - the distinctive, contrasty underwing pattern, the characteristic black tail band and white uppertail, rakish appearance and slender bill, with smoky-grey underparts and white forehead and crown. Awesome!
We drove on, briefly stopping at a road junction where John could hear a Western Bonelli's Warbler from the car - indeed, perhaps, 3 Western Bonelli's were calling and two birds showed well.
Further down the road a Honey Buzzard drifted through an oak grove. And then up into the mountains. John was hoping for Citril Finch but it was early afternoon and the pine forest was very quiet. A smart Crested Tit, a high-altitude Hoopoe, White Wagtail and a couple more Black Redstarts, plus Griffons overhead still meant some good birding.
As we drove down the mountain another Black Vulture gave awesome views as it soared along the ridge just above the road. Along with a Raven lower down.
And then a long but ultimately worthwhile drive back towards Madrid and El Pardo. Our final target was Spanish Imperial Eagle, on the outskirts of Madrid. Surely this was one ask too many. A breezy, hot late afternoon meant perfect conditions. Dozens of Griffons circled overhead with 3-4 Black Vultures, a couple of Black Kites, a Hobby, a Kestrel....and not forgetting a kettle of White Storks riding the thermals and perhaps the stratosphere.... But the eagle was alluding us.
A Red-rumped Swallow finally got onto the day list as John yet again picked a bird up on call and it then obligingly flew past. And then a sub-adult Purple Heron dropped into the tangled vegetation along the river edge right in front of us. But time was running out. John called 5 more minutes. But as with so many occasions on this day John then shouted 'there's one' and sure enough a stunning Spanish Imperial Eagle rose from over the ridge, soared high and displayed above our heads, its white leading edges to the wings like landing lights gleaming in the clear blue sky. This was yet another awesome bird in an amazing bird-filled day in the environs of Madrid. No wonder Kaka, Ronaldo and others were so keen on a transfer!
John's knowledge of the bird life of this area is awesome, as is his knowledge of birding generally. He is also a quite exceptional guide and companion. Madrid without doubt is Europe's best birding city. You need a guide to do it justice. John is your man, simple as that. You can contact him through Iberian Wildlife Tours.
For visiting birders with only a couple of hours available, don't despair. El Retiro behind the Prado produced 30+ Bee-eaters, juvenile Woodchat, 4 Hobbies hunting amongst a large hirundine (mainly House Martins) flock, a Black Kite, and 7 Monk Parakeets in just 2 hours on the evening of the 23rd.
