Being keen walkers, a trip to the Canadian Rockies had long been on our radar and an end to some exams was the only excuse needed. We had only travelled to the North American continent once before, and that was a three-week trip to California in autumn 2007. As a result of that trip, the number of new species likely in the Canadian Rockies was around 30, and that included a number of owls which were rarely or never seen by teams.
Timing
We opted for the middle two weeks of June for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it was a couple of days after my final exams. More importantly for us, it was to beat the crowds which we felt would reach menacing proportions in the high season of July and August. We were conscious that by going so early we were taking a risk that some of the high altitude walks may be impassable thereby affecting our chances of seeing White-tailed Ptarmigan, for example.
Although we did not know it when booking the trip, the earlier in the season one goes, the better the chances of seeing bears - especially Grizzly Bear - which quickly moves to higher altitudes and more remote localities. Due to being that little bit earlier, and combined with a delayed summer, we were fortunate in seeing 15 Black Bears and a single Grizzly Bear, mostly within the Jasper area.
Exchange Rate
The Canadian Dollar had weakened against the pound from a high of around Can $2.24: £1. At the time of our trip, we were getting Can $1.97: £1 though this less than advantageous exchange rate did not make the trip expensive.
Weather
We always knew that we would be taking a chance on the weather which, in most northern hemisphere countries, is much more reliable later in the season. Several locals referred to the lateness of the summer, and we experienced cold to cool wet weather in our first few days, then much cloudier but slightly warmer conditions with less precipitation, finally yielding to strong sunshine for our final few days with temperatures well in the 20s (centigrade), from a day low earlier in the trip of around 7Oc. As hikers, we would always prefer temperatures at the cooler end of the range so this weather was largely perfect, though frustrating at times for scenic photography.
Trip Reports
Surprisingly perhaps, we were not able to find a huge number of birdwatching reports on the Internet. However, the trip requires very little planning, and apart from organising flights and the recreational vehicle (RV), we did all the work we needed to on the plane and in the airport. We would, however, highlight the following reports as being helpful:
- Horton, Dave and Karen. Alberta – Canadian Rockies 1st August – 14th August 2004
- Cantley, Graham. Vancouver and the Rockies August 2007 – not a birding report!
- Leadley, Jono. Alberta, Canada May 2006.
We also used the following publications:
- Sibley, David Allen. Field Guide to Birds of Western North America (Knopf)
- McDonald, Joan F. A Birdfinding Guide to the Calgary Region (Calgary Field Naturalists’ Society) – Covers Banff NP only and is useful but not essential due to replicated in Finlay
- Finlay, J Cam. A Bird-Finding Guide to Canada (Aspen House Productions) – All you need but the sites are written by different people and edited by Finlay. As a result, some sites are expertly written whilst others leave a lot to be desired
- Banff, Jasper & Glacier National Parks: Lonely Planet Guide. May be of use to those looking for accommodation, places to eat or walks. We did not use this guide that much
- Backpackers Road Map – We bought this in Canada (Banff Tourist Information Centre) and it is highly recommended as it has details of walks, campsites, fishing, rafting and activities
Access
If one is staying in Canadian National Parks for more than seven days, you would be advised to purchase an annual parks’ pass, which at the time of our trip cost C$136. The best way to access Jasper and Banff National Parks is from Calgary via a hire car, but it is not that much further from Edmonton into Jasper from the north. Some birders also fly into Calgary and out of Vancouver, or vice versa.
At the time of our visit, unleaded fuel cost an average of C$1.33. We opted to hire a RV (with http://canadream.com) which worked out at £900 for the fortnight. This was the perfect, if not an expensive choice, of getting around though one must still camp in one of the many campgrounds. It is illegal to camp outside of a designated campground and technically one could be fined up to C$2000 (£1,000). Locals we talked so seemed to suggest that the police are now more tolerant of such transgresses but we took no chances.
There are two main routes though Banff NP. The 1 is faster and more direct but has fewer stopping points, and less chance of picking up a bear. The 1A is the old highway through the park and is the recommended route. This road also passes Muleshoe Picnic Area and Moose Meadow, and offers more stopping places and maximum chances of seeing a bear. Should you see a bear, however, a “bear-jam” quickly follows with dozens of other people desperate for views and photos, and the likelihood of the park wardens intervening to move traffic on.
Accommodation
The campsites within the national parks were all excellent and cost a standard C$27.40 without power or $33.00 with power. Banff has many more pitches with power than Jasper and we were unable to get power at all in Jasper. Being in the low season we did not bother to book any of the campsites in advance though this is now possible over the Internet. We should add that there are a number of hotels and bed and breakfasts in both Banff and Jasper and one birding couple we met were paying an average of C$70 – 80 (£35-40) per room with breakfast per day – very reasonable compared to British prices.
Food
We stocked up on food in Calgary which proved an inspired move as the food within the national parks was much more expensive. The cheapest superstore was probably Safeway in Banff. There are many places in which to eat out in both Banff and Jasper which seemed reasonably priced but outside of these main areas you may be best advised to have some food with you.
Some Main Species
The sites are well covered in the available information and it seems pointless to cover well trodden ground. Instead, we have made a few notes on the key species based on our experience.
Dusky Grouse (Dendragapus obscurus) – Split from Blue Grouse into Dusky and Sooty Grouse but a hard bird to see in Alberta. One noted site seemed to be the Celestine Fire Road to the north of Jasper but this was closed due to the upgrading of an oil line and will not re-open until late 2009. Even then the chances of seeing this species seemed extremely low. This species is much easier in Colorado in any event so we never really took the chance of seeing this species seriously, particularly as we are likely to visit Colorado within the next two years.
Spruce Grouse – Celestine Fire Road goes through good Spruce Forest and, until recently, had been a reliable site, particularly early morning. We tried Moab Lake early morning without success. The best bet seems to be walking the trails in Spruce Forest, and the area south of Medicine Lake looked very good to us. Indeed we met a couple that had seen this species fifteen minutes before we arrived close to the treeline of the Opal Hills Loop near Maligne Lake. We eventually got lucky near Lake Louise.
Ruffed Grouse – Another grouse that seems to need a huge amount of luck on your side in order to connect with it. We heard several drumming males – which sound like distant car engines spluttering into life – at Patricia and Pyramid Lakes, and Cottonwood Slough, and from Whistlers Campsite, all in Jasper NP. The best strategy seems to be to walk the trails in this area and hope you come across a female with young as they have a tendency for aggressive defence.
White-tailed Ptarmigan – Easy to see once you leave the cable-car station at the top of Whistlers Mountain, Jasper.
Calliope Hummingbird – Meant to occur at the hummingbird feeders in Jasper but we gave this strategy plenty of time resulting in lots of Rufous Hummingbirds only. They also occur sparingly in Cottonwood Slough but we saw none, and a local informed us of a pair along the western edge of Pyramid Lake but we could not find the area he was referring to. A chance encounter with a park warden living at Pocahontas resulted in us seeing a pair at his feeder along with eight plus Rufous Hummingbirds on one day only. Two days later just three Rufous Hummingbirds remained but we attributed this to improving weather and the hummingbirds no longer virtually totally dependent on hummingbird feeders. Not easy to catch up with. Other birds have seen this species at the hummingbird feeders at the visitors’ centre at Mount Robson, though some locals thought the feeders were no longer maintained at this locality. We could not make out any feeders as we drove to our white water rafting locality but the visitors’ centre is some way off the road.
Black Swift – A species in decline in Banff with one apparently well-informed local telling us that there was just one pair now in Johnston Canyon (Banff NP), and no more than four pairs in the whole of Jasper NP. These are the only two known breeding sites in the whole of Alberta. Some birds arrive with the first period of warmth towards the end of April but until reliable warm weather arrives in late May or June they are tricky birds to catch up with. The best chance is from the Maligne Canyon lookout from 21:00, with the birds coming in most reliably from around 21:45 to 22:10, especially during warm evenings. However, do keep looking up when in the main valley as birds are regularly seen patrolling through the valley. The birds are known to fly hundreds of miles in order to escape bad weather and can leave their young for up to four days, perhaps longer. It took us three attempts to see this bird though the first two attempts were during cold evenings. The birds also have a rather distinctive profile looking short-tailed, stumpy-headed and broad-winged.
American Three-toed Woodpecker – Seems thinly spread but widespread in The Rockies and best located by listening for tapping as it chisels bark from trees. We did not knowingly hear this species call and this perhaps contributes to the challenge of seeing it. It also prefers areas with dead trees or recently burned areas. We saw ours in the Valley of the Five Lakes, Japer, but we also met a walking couple that had seen this species along the trail from Medicine Lake. If in the right habitat and with a bit of diligence the chances are high that most if not all birders will see this species during the course of a two week trip. It should be noted that Black-backed Woodpecker is more or less impossible in Banff, Jasper or Yoho NPs.
Owls – The opposite of Finland, for example, with no stakeouts tied to nest boxes. All the owls are, therefore, very hard though we didn’t try with tapes. Northern Saw Whet Owl is uncommon but widespread and calls in March and April. Thereafter it is silent and is much harder to see. Boreal (Tengmalm’s) Owl is a very rare resident but again is silent after around April. Great Grey Owl is primarily a very rare winter visitor. Northern Pygmy-owl is also much easier in winter when it visits gardens to prey on the passerines visiting the feeders. This species does call more in May and June than other species and perhaps is the one species that could be tape-lured. It could be worth using this species’ tape anyway to see what passerines might be attracted in to mob. Barred Owl is another rare resident and, tantalising, one was located by a birder at its roost along the Fen Trail in Banff, thanks to mobbing passerines. Another equally tantalising possibility was of a silhouetted large owl flying over the Banff Hot Springs’ car park at dusk as seen by a different birder. A site for Great Grey Owl was suggested to us by a Fieldguides’ birdwatching guide along the first six or seven kilometres of the 546 west of Turner Valley but we saw nothing.
Flycatchers – Not key species, but mentioned in passing that the flycatchers are worth seeing as all were in song, certainly during our visit, rendering identification much more straightforward.
Detailed Itinerary
8 June 2008
Pick up our RV late afternoon, which proves to be an inspired choice in terms of size and fuel economy for two people. The Canadians, like us Brits, are complaining about the cost of fuel which has doubled for them in under a year! Camp just outside of Banff NP at the Three Sisters Campground near Canmore and see Lincoln’s Sparrow.
9 June 2008
Lincoln’s Sparrow again, and the newly split American Black-billed Magpie looking just like the ones at home, but with very different voices. Eastern Kingbird on wires just before Banff NP gate, and a close Cayote just beyond. Already things on the up! The Cave and Basin area of Banff is rather quiet with the best birds being Hairy Woodpecker, Pacific-slope Flycatcher and Cliff Swallow. With the weather against us, head north and electing to bird Banff on our way back. We call in at a noted Hammond’s Flycatcher site at Muleshoe Picnic Area, soon picking out the flycatcher on the basis of its distinctive three-part song. Even better though, and at the Aspen / Pine transition, a Northern Pygmy-owl flies into a tree where we secure superb views. This was a species I had dipped in Finland a few years ago so it was great to ‘pull this back’ – not until they split them! Muleshoe Lake also holds Hooded Merganser.
Where the road splits between Muleshoe Lake and Johnston Canyon we notice around ten America Robins feeding by the roadside. So it was with immense frustration that we clap eyes on a Varied Thrush feeding similarly but forced to drive on due to the narrowness of the road at this particular spot, and having traffic behind.
The well-wooded Johnston Canyon Campground holds Boreal Chickadee and Swainson’s Thrush.
10 June 2008
To the north of Johnston Canyon is the large Goose Meadow off to the west of the road, reputedly holding Clay-coloured Sparrow. Trudging through what in parts was an extremely wet meadow results in Willow Flycatcher as the pick of the birds. However, returning to the car past a small clump of pines I was amazed to flush a Ruffed Grouse which sits in a tree for a full minute revealing only its head and long tail before flying off deeper in the forest on the east side of the road.
With the weather still miserably wet, we decide that today would make an excellent travel day and note Townsend’s Solitaire and Harlequin Duck from a lookout over the Bow River, a high Swainson’s Hawk, Gray Jay and out first Elk, as well as our first, somewhat bedraggled looking, Black Bear en route to Jasper. The immensely sized Whistlers Campsite near Jasper hosts breeding Hairy Woodpeckers.
11 June 2008
With slightly improved weather, dull but not raining, time for our first walks around Lake Maligne. Stellar views of Harlequin Ducks on the river inlet by the bridge, and Barrow’s Goldeneye, Red-necked Grebe and Common Loon (Great Northern Diver) on the lake. Mono Lake Trail produces just a single Pine Grosbeak of any note. However, miss Spruce Grouse by twenty minutes off the Opal Hills Loop which a couple proudly show off on their camera! We do see Willow Ptarmigan to within feet which is in fact a much better and harder bird to see in Banff or Jasper, and arguably one of the two hardest of the five species of ‘grouse’ to see being as it is on the edge of its range. It has to be said that this looked for all the world like a ptarmigan rather than a grouse and it is almost beyond credibility to think that this bird shares the same line of my list as the humble Red Grouse. Let’s hope in years to come the axe will fall on this species and we’ll have an armchair tick which, at the time of our viewing, seemed fully justified!
Medicine Lake in the late evening is quiet though frustration creeps again, this time missing American Three-toed Woodpecker by less than five minutes, which a different couple have photographed. A very photographable Grey Jay fails to make up for this bad luck, which continues when Black Swifts from the Maligne Canyon lookout fail to put on a show.
12 June 2008
The weather breaks, and Whistlers Mountain, hitherto in cloud, produces great views of White-tailed Ptarmigan but none of the hoped for accompanying passerine cast such as Grey-crowned Rosy-Finch or American Pipit. Although not cheap (C$25 (£13)) each return though walking up and getting the tram back to Jasper is in fact free), the first tramway was sufficient to beat the crowds, and the weather which closed in as the day progressed. A singing Least Flycatcher in the carpark was a bonus. Stake out the hummingbird feeders in Jasper town but only find Rufous. Cottonwood Slough proves the place to be as a young, unexpectedly sandy-looking Grizzly Bear feeds in a meadow about 200m away. Black Bear to complete the double seen en route to Maligne Canyon lookout, where we also complete another double when, for the second time, fail to see Black Swift in what is another cold and cloudy late evening. A flying and calling Common Nighthawk is inadequate compensation and certainly hasn’t been put off by the cold conditions.
13 June 2008
The view of yesterday’s Grizzly Bear was somewhat obscured so revisit the area in the hope of photographs but nothing along the Cottonwood Slough trails. Sick of carrying my heavy camera gear, I leave it in the RV as I take the wide trail heading north from Pyramid Lake, leaving Dee to sleep in the RV. The birding is again very quiet but a Cassin’s Vireo is a decent find. However, this is eclipsed by amazingly close views of a cinnamon-coloured Black Bear feeding on dandelions by the side of the path. Great views, no obstructions, an unconcerned animal, nobody else around to spoil what was an amazing thirty minute experience, and to add to my woes, superb light, and no camera!! What a numpty!
The southern end of Pyramid Lake proves to be much more birdy with a female Red-naped Sapsucker in the Aspen belt, two singing Tennessee Warblers, Cedar Waxwing and our second Swainson’s Thrush.
White water rafting near Mount Robson proves to be a first but superb and recommended experience, though at C$99 each it may not be for everyone.
14 June 2008
An early morning foray to Lake Moab fails to produce the hoped for Spruce Grouse or anything of note for that matter. Pocahontas to the north of Jasper proves frustrating as we don’t seem to be able to follow J Cam Finlay’s directions in his A Bird-finding Guide to Canada which would allow access. We stumble upon a park warden’s cottage and immediately see a pair of Calliope Hummingbirds at the feeders, and a singing male Magnolia Warbler nearby. A Black Bear, our third, by the roadside to Mieffe Hot Springs above Pocahontas Campste did yield some decent photographic images, but stills fails to make up for yesterday’s error of judgement.
15 June 2008
A walk from Mieffe Hot Springs proves quiet bird wise, but the same Black Bear from yesterday is still feeding on roadside dandelions. This time, despite better light, the resulting carnage which characterises any ‘bear-jam’ forces us to move on in the best interests of the animal. Inspired by Jono Leadley’s report in which they see Great Grey Owl, another bird I missed in Finland during the worst lemming year in a decade, we head to Blue Ridge and drive round the forest and logging tracks, all to no avail. To make matters worse, the directions to Connecticut Warbler sites in J. Cam Finlay’s book in the Blue Ridge and Goose Lake areas are confused to say the least. Best birds in the area include: Eastern Phoebe; Bald Eagle; Franklin’s Gull; Blue-headed Vireo; Black-capped Chickadee; and Blue Jay. Two Common Nighthawks calling in good pre-dusk light allowed close examination of critical features.
16 June 2008
Desperate early morning searching around the forest tracks fails to produce any owls, and there are some birds which no matter how hard you try you are destined not to see. Birding during the morning is also quiet with no sign of Connecticut Warbler at J. Cam Finlay’s main haul road towards the river localities. Although not there long enough to explore the area properly, the claim that one of North America’s hardest woodpeckers – the Black-backed Woodpecker – is in fact ‘abundant’ in the area takes some believing as our Woodpecker haul struggles to Pileated heard, Hairy seen and either Red-naped or Yellow-bellied Sapsucker seen too briefly to be certain. Accepting the serious error of judgement in leaving The Rockies we head back to the hummingbird feeders at Pocahontas which are devoid of birds compared to yesterday. Medicine Lake is memorable for a female Black Bear with two young cubs, though the distance militates against photography so we simply enjoy a great moment – which lasts over 30 minutes! A change of luck at the Maligne Canyon lookout with three (of four) Black Swifts at dusk. A Fieldguides’ guide is evidently so sympathetic to our desperate Great Grey Owl plight that he offers an alternative site within striking distance of Calgary. The owls have nested here for the third year in a row and were seen as recently as a few days ago! Now that’s the sort of gen we need!
With two holes in the list decide to keep local to Jasper, particularly as birders have seen both Spruce Grouse and America Three-toed Woodpecker in the Valley of the Five Lakes. En route, two Black Bears, our ninth and tenth, melt into the forest before being digitally immortalised. The Valley of the Five Lakes proves inspired as two or three American Three-toed Woodpeckers are found, seemingly showing brighter yellow crown patches than the Sibley Guide picture of The Rocky Mountain race. Single Hammond’s and Alder Flycatchers, and Cedar Waxwing, are also noted. Two large adult Black Bears chomping on dandelions in the small meadow below the Marmot Ski Station were the best yet, helped by the absence of hordes and only three other photographers for company. An unforgettable experience.
18 June 2008
With just the one hole of Spruce Grouse on the list it was time to leave Jasper NP, but never knowing when to admit defeat, we were up at dawn along the road to Lake Moab in the hope of a grouse on the road. But defeat it was. Another Black Bear with a cub en route to the Icefield Centre, with the rapidly retreating glacier at the centre a timely reminder that one day the world will take the threat of global warming seriously, when we will be simultaneously priced out of the skies. Further south we are elated to find the Parker’s Ridge Trail has just opened for the season. In the treeline, a pair of Hermit Thrushes and three Brewer’s Sparrow’s of the timberline race show well, along with our only Fox (Slate-coloured) Sparrows of the trip. On the tops, a single Horned Lark and, at long last, the world tick of American Pipit. Becoming disoriented on the tops due to covering the ground for new birds, we are unable to locate the path down, essential as there is still a fair amount of lying snow. We wander down but have to turn back due to a deep snow line when, as luck would have it, we flush two Grey-crowned Rosy-Finch. Getting our bearings from a distant walker we make it to our RV just as it lashed down with giant hailstones. A single Mountain Goat near Cirrus Mountain was the only one of our trip. The gorgeous Peyto Lake holds Clark’s Nutcrackers en route to the less well known Yoho NP.
19 June 2008
Yoho NP had not been on the original itinerary but Dee had read about Lake O’Hara and had to see it for herself. The lake also benefits from a long walk in and out of 14 miles return, or a rip-off C$16 return bus fare ($10 one way), expertly engineered by the Park Wardens who have even decommissioned a more scenic footpath to the lake. This leaves just the unmemorable road in through relatively poor habitat which we walked. For most this would not be an option, and for all but the most foolhardy perhaps, no option at all in the summer when temperatures would be much higher. All that said, Lake O’Hara really is a stunning and tranquil locality and the access difficulties, linked to it being in a national park that no one has really heard of, ensure that the relatively few visitors are unable to spoil it. The birding was not quite so spectacular though we did enjoy stellar views of a pair of Pine Grosbeak.
On the main road between Lake O’Hara and Emerald Lake two more Black Bears – our last and fifteenth and sixteenth respectively - causes a serious ‘bear-jam’ with a lorry narrowly missing the gathering throng. Presumably some people coming into Yoho or Banff and Jasper NPs from the west were over-excited by their first bears. The incompetent and inconsiderate drivers too much to bear, we continue to Emerald Lake where more great scenery competes with a pair of close Common Loons for attention and camera time.
20 June 2008
Despite arriving early Lake Louise was already busy, with throngs of camera wielding Japanese tourists vying for the best spots in which to take what seemed like endless photographs. Get away from the masses by walking to Agnes Lake and, amazingly, connect with a pair of Spruce Grouse along the Little Beehive Trail. The male proves to be a real performer both on the ground and feeding on shoots from fifteen feet up a tree. Swainson’s Thrush, Clark’s Nutcracker and Mountain Chickadee all show well, though our only singing Varied Thrush of the trip proves invisible. Moraine Lake holds more tame Clark’s Nutcrackers and great scenery.
Drive past J Cam Finlay’s Dusky Flycatcher site as the directions don’t make sense to Mount Wilson which is further to the south. Moose Meadow produces numbers of Common Yellowthroat and Yellow Warbler, Lincoln’s and White-crowned Sparrows and a Willow Flycatcher, but not the hoped for Clay-coloured Sparrow.
21 June 2008
Up early along the Fen Trail, Banff, but no chance of Barred Owl without a huge dollop of luck which we think we have long exhausted. Agreeing the time was right to leave, we have an early lunch at Minnewanka Lake area, noting Cliff Swallow and Northern Flicker in the process. Kananaskis Country was another area not on the original itinerary but we drive through en route to our stakeout Great Grey Owl. This decision soon pays off as a bizarre looking Moose calmly feeds in a small roadside marsh despite the attentions of growing admirers. However, park wardens are soon on the scene to break up the party on what was a comparatively wide stretch of road with off-road parking. More disappointing news as, despite valiant attempts, we are unable to walk the Ptarmigan Cirque Trail due to melting snow. Mountain Bluebirds en route to the Turner Valley as well as several Tree Swallows. With high expectations of seeing Great Grey Owl we are dismayed to drive the area suggested by the Fieldguides’ guide only to be convinced that this couldn’t be the area – the habitat looked all wrong being largely grasslands and farmland, interspersed with some woodland. We still work the road but see nothing, and a close Swainson’s Hawk fails to raise flagging spirits.
Another early morning and, as expected really, we are unable to find any owls. Heading to Calgary Airport, a good looking lake holds Black Tern and a single Canvasback, as well as three Franklin’s Gulls in a nearby field. The return journey home proves uneventful, apart from the traffic jam on the M62 reinforcing just how small an island we are compared to the space enjoyed by just 33 million Canadians, and time to reflect on a two-week trip that has delivered on all counts.
Mike and Denise Hunter
mikehunter@talktalk.net
July 2008
Species Lists
Follows Sibley Guide to Western North America
1. Common Loon [Great Northern Diver] (Gavia immer) Noted on Mono Lake, near Maligne Lake, Medicine Lake as well as the Valley of the Five Lakes, all Jasper NP, and Wapta and Emerald Lakes, Yoho NP
2. Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena) Two on Maligne Lake, and another two on a lake between Turner Valley and Calgary, all in stunning summer plumage.
3. Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps) Two at Cottonwood Slough, Jasper NP.
4. Canada Goose (Branta Canadensis) Noted widely, usually in small numbers.
5. Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos) Noted once in The Rockies.
6. Blue-winged Teal (Anas discors) A single male near Blue Ridge, and also at Turner Valley.
7. Cinnamon Teal (Anas cyanoptera) Scarce in The Rockies, we noted a nervous pair at Cottonwood Slough, Jasper NP.
8. Green-winged Teal (Anas carolinensis) A single drake in the Blue Ridge area.
9. Lesser Scaup (Aythya affinis) Five on Lake Louise, two at Blue Ridge, and four on a lake between Turner Valley and Calgary.
10. Ring-necked Duck (Aythya collaris) Pairs noted at Muleshoe picnic site, Banff NP, and at Blue Ridge, and five at Cottonwood Slough, Jasper NP.
11. Canvasback (Aythya valisineria) A single female on a lake between Turner Valley and Calgary.
12. Harlequin Duck (Histrionicus histrionicus) Three rather distant males and two females on the River Bow north of Banff. Much closer birds comprising four males and two females, all apparently feeding on trout eggs, from the bridge at Maligne Lake, where some gave incredibly views.
13. Common Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula) Two females on separate lakes in the Valley of the Five Lakes, and another female at Cottonwood Slough, all Jasper NP. A distant female at Lake Louise was probably also of this species.
14. Barrow's Goldeneye (Bucephala islandica) A single male at Maligne Lake was our only sighting.
15. Bufflehead (Bucephala albeola) Single females in the Blue Ridge area, and also at Cottonwood Slough, Jasper NP.
16. Common Merganser [Goosander] (Mergus merganser) A pair on Lake Maligne, and a single in the Blue Ridge area.
17. Hooded Merganser (Lophodytes cucullatus) Two males on Muleshoe Lake was not only a unexpected surprise, but was probably also a world tick over the potentially ‘dodgy’ British duo we have seen.
18. Red-tailed Hawk (Buteo jamaicensis) Four sightings in The Rockies, but commoner between Calgary and Banff, and between Calgary and Turner Valley.
19. Swainson's Hawk (Buteo swainsoni) A single high over the Icefield Centre, Jasper NP was distinctive for being very thin winged, and another single feeding in a grassy field at Turner Valley
20. Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) Two at Blue Ridge.
21. Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) A single adult over the river at Blue Ridge was, perhaps surprisingly, our only sighting.
22. American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) A single from the road between Blue Ridge and Pocahontas.
23. Ruffed Grouse (Bonasa umbellus) Seeing this species seems to require a large amount of luck, and ours was in at Moose Meadow, Banff NP, as a bird flew from the ground into a pine and its pigeon-like head and longish tail could be seen. Unfortunately, it flew off before better views could be obtained. Also heard at Cottonwood Slough, and Patricia and Pyramid Lakes. One of the best ways to see this species is to walk the trails in this area and hope you get close to a female with chicks as apparently she will react aggressively. Heard too at Whistlers Campsite.
24. Spruce Grouse (Falcipennis canadensis) Having more or less given up on this species, remarkably a pair showed well from the popular Little Beehive Trail near Lake Agnes, Lake Louise, Banff NP.
25. Willow Ptarmigan [Willow Grouse / Red Grouse] (Lagopus lagopus) One of the surprises of the trip with a female seen well just below the tree line from the Opal Hills Loop, Maligne Lake, Jasper NP. Apparently this species and Dusky Grouse are, by far, the hardest of the ‘five’ to see, at least in this part of The Rockies.
26. White-tailed Ptarmigan (Lagopus leucurus) Great views of the customary pair 400m above the Whistlers Tramway, Jasper NP.
27. American Coot (Fulica americana) Two on Cottonwood Slough, Jasper NP, and a single on a lake between Turner Valley and Calgary.
28. Solitary Sandpiper (Tringa solitaria) A single at Blue Ridge.
29. Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularia) Three at both Blue Ridge and along the river near Mount Robson whilst white water rafting.
30. Wilson’s Snipe (Gallinago delicata) A single drumming over Blue Ridge was our only sighting.
31. Franklin's Gull (Larus pipixcan) 50+ feeding along the river to the north of Blue Ridge, and three in a field between Turner Valley and Calgary.
32. American Herring Gull (Larus smithsonianus) Three over the river to the north of Blue Ridge.
33. Black Tern (Chlidonias niger) Four over a lake between Turner Valley and Calgary.
34. Feral Pigeon [Rock Dove] (Columba livia) Noted in a few places in The Rockies, as well as Calgary and en route to Blue Ridge.
35. Northern Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium gnoma) One of the moments of the trip when one flew into the open at the Aspen / Pine transition above the Muleshoe Picnic Area.
36. Common Nighthawk (Chordeiles minor) A single from the Maligne Canyon lookout, and two in the early evening in good light at Blue Ridge allowed a good appreciation of the key identification features.
37. Belted Kingfisher (Megaceryle alcyon) A single at Cottonwood Slough, Jasper NP.
38. Black Swift (Cypseloides niger) Much harder than anticipated. A visit to Johnson Canyon in Banff National Park in poor weather drew a blank. Apparently just the one breeding pair remains at this locality. On the third attempt four birds were seen well from the Maligne Canyon lookout, Jasper NP. If it is very cold the birds either do not fly, or are feeding many dozens of kilometres away and can leave their young in the nest for three or four days at a time.
39. Calliope Hummingbird (Stellula calliope) A real struggle to catch up with this species having spent several hours searching Jasper’s hummingbird feeders without success. In a stroke of genius, we stumbled upon a park warden’s house at Pocahontas and within seconds were watching a pair of North America’s smallest bird. The following day, coinciding with warmer weather, no Calliope and very few Rufous Hummingbirds at the same locality indicating that they had moved off into the forest where flowers were beginning to be plentiful.
40. Rufous Hummingbird (Selasphorus rufus) 12-15 in Jasper and eight plus at the warden’s hummingbird feeders at Pocahontas.
41. Northern Flicker (Colaptes auratus) Singles near Medicine Lake, Jasper NP, Kicking Horse Campsite, Yoho NP, Tunnel Mountain Campsite, Banff, and Minnewanka Lake, Banff NP.
42. Hairy Woodpecker (Picoides villosus) Singles along the Cave and Basin Trail, Banff NP and at Blue Ridge, and a nesting pair in Whistlers Campsite, Jasper NP.
43. American Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides dorsalis) A struggle to see this but late in the trip two or three birds seen well at the Valley of the Five Lakes, Jasper NP.
44. [Pileated Woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus)] A single heard drumming at Blue Ridge.]
45. Red-naped Sapsucker (Sphyrapicus nuchalis) A single seen well in the Aspen belt at Pyramid Lake, and either this species or Yellow-bellied Sapsucker seen briefly at Blue Ridge.
46. Western Wood-pewee (Contopus sordidulus) A single at Lake Maligne.
47. Willow Flycatcher (Empidonax traillii) Singles on two separate occasions in Moose Meadow, Banff NP, and also at Cottonwood Slough, Jasper NP.
48. Alder Flycatcher (Empidonax alnorum) A single singing in the Valley of the Five Lakes, Jasper NP.
49. Least Flycatcher (Empidonax minimus) Just a single, fortunately singing its distinctive ‘che-bek’ song, in the Whistler Tramway carpark.
50. Hammond's Flycatcher (Empidonax hammondii) Two or three in Aspen above Muleshoe picnic site, and a similar number, also in Aspen, in Whistlers Campsite, and a single in the Valley of the Five Lakes, Jasper NP. A distinctive three-part song is the key to identifying this species.
51. Pacific-slope Flycatcher (Empidonax difficilis) A single along the Cave and Basin Trail, Banff.
52. Eastern Phoebe (Sayornis phoebe) Several in the Blue Ridge area.
53. Eastern Kingbird (Tyrannus tyrannus) A single on a fence between Calgary and Banff NP.
54. Cassin's Vireo (Vireo cassinii) A single at Pyramid Lake, Jasper NP.
55. Blue-headed Vireo (Vireo solitarius) A single at Blue Ridge.
56. Warbling Vireo (Vireo gilvus) A single in the Aspen above the Muleshoe picnic site feeding with a Red-eyed Vireo, and another single in the Blue Ridge area.
57. Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus) A single in the Aspen above Muleshoe picnic site.
58. Blue Jay (Cyanocitta cristata) Two in the Blue Ridge area.
59. Grey Jay (Perisoreus Canadensis) Having spent far too long searching and dipping this species in California the previous year, this species was surprisingly widespread and seen in all three of The Rockies’ National Parks in small numbers.
60. Clark's Nutcracker (Nucifraga columbiana) Four from the top of Parker’s Ridge Trail, five at Peyto Lake and good views of five or six at Lake O’Hara, Yoho NP, and both Lake Louise and Moraine Lake.
61. American Black-billed Magpie (Pica hudsonia) Looks more or less identical to its European equivalent - until it calls - when the recent split looks fully justified. Commoner out of The Rockies but fairly common in Banff too, and also noted at Muleshoe picnic site and in and around Jasper.
62. American Crow (Corvus brachyrhynchos) Common between Calgary and The Rockies, as well as in Blue Ridge, and then regularly encountered in The Rockies, particularly the villages.
63. Common Raven (Corvus corax) Regularly encountered throughout The Rockies but in small numbers.
64. Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) A single towards the top of the Parker’s Ridge Trail, Jasper NP.
65. Tree Swallow (Tachycineta bicolour) Probably overlooked, with our sightings limited to a single at both Jasper and Emerald Lake, Yoho NP, a few in and around Turner Valley and between there and Calgary.
66. Violet-green Swallow (Tachycineta thalassina) Noted at Banff, Jasper and Emerald Lake, Yoho NP.
67. Bank Swallow [Sand Martin] (Riparia riparia) Three or four over the river, near Mount Robson, whilst white water rafting, and two from the bridge at Blue Ridge.
68. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) Noted throughout in small numbers.
69. Cliff Swallow (Petrochelidon pyrrhonota). A sizeable colony on the bridge over the river just to the north of Blue Ridge, eight or so from the Cave and Basin Trail, Banff, and several pairs evidently breeding on buildings by Minnewanka Lake, Banff NP.
70. Black-capped Chickadee (Poecile atricapillus) A single at Blue Ridge was, very surprisingly, the only one noted.
71. Mountain Chickadee (Poecile gambeli) A single at Lake Louise and two at Pyramid Lake, Jasper NP were our only sightings.
72. Boreal Chickadee (Poecile hudsonicus) Two in the Johnston Canyon Campsite, Banff NP.
73. Red-breasted Nuthatch (Sitta Canadensis) Regularly heard in parts of The Rockies, and having seen this species well in California, our sightings were limited to the Valley of the Five Lakes, Jasper NP, Lake Louise, and Muleshoe picnic area, Banff NP.
74. Brown Creeper (Certhia Americana) A single along the Opal Hills Loop, Maligne Lake.
75. [Winter Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)] Heard along a trail above Mieffe Springs, near Pocahontas, and also at Lake O’Hara, Yoho NP.]
76. American Dipper (Cinclus mexicanus) Singles from the Bridge at Lake Maligne, Jasper NP, and also at Lake O’Hara, Yoho NP.
77. Golden-crowned Kinglet (Regulus satrapa) Just a single seen, at Pyramid Lake, Jasper NP.
78. Ruby-crowned Kinglet (Regulus calendula) Not specifically looked for, we noted singles at Lake Moab, Cottonwood Slough, Pyramid Lake and Whistlers Campground, all in Jasper NP, as well as at Lake Louise.
79. Mountain Bluebird (Sialia currucoides) A few in Kananaskis Country, in and around Turner Valley, and between there and Calgary.
80. Townsend's Solitaire (Myadestes townsendi) A single from a lookout over the Bow River north of Banff, and another single along the Maligne road,
81. Varied Thrush (Zoothera naevia) One of the most frustrating experiences of the trip with a single from our RV feeding by the side of the road north of Banff.
82. American Robin (Turdus migratorius) Common.
83. Swainson's Thrush (Catharus ustulatus) Three singles seen at the Johnston Canyon Campsite, Banff NP, Pyramid Lake, Jasper NP, and Blue Ridge.
84. Hermit Thrush (Catharus guttatus) Two birds showed well near the treeline of the Parker Ridge Trail.
85. American Pipit (Anthus rubescens) Two or three towards the top of the Parker’s Ridge Trail, Jasper NP, were well appreciated.
86. Cedar Waxwing (Bombycilla cedrorum) 15+ in Jasper, seven over Pyramid Lake, Jasper NP and a single at the Valley of the Five Lakes, Jasper NP.
87. European Starling (Sturnus vulgaris) Noted from the road between Blue Ridge and Pocahontas, and at Turner Valley.
88. Tennessee Warbler (Vermivora peregrine) Sounding a little like our Wood Warbler, two seen well at Pyramid Lake, and a single at Blue Ridge.
89. Orange-crowned Warbler (Vermivora celata) Sounding like a distant telephone, we only noted this species in the Aspen at Whistlers Campsite, Jasper NP.
90. Yellow Warbler (Dendroica petechia) A single at Muleshoe picnic site and six at Moose Meadow, both Banff NP.
91. Magnolia Warbler (Dendroica magnolia) One of the birds of the trip with a stunning male seen well at Pocahontas, Jasper NP.
92. Yellow-rumped Warbler (Dendroica coronata) Heard everywhere! 90% of the ‘Myrtle form with just three smart ‘Audubon’s’ identified from the Cave and Basin Trail, Banff, Johnston Canyon Campsite, Banff NP, and at Lake O’Hara, Yoho NP.
93. American Redstart (Setophaga ruticilla) Singles at Blue Ridge, from a lookout over the River Bow north of Banff, from the Maligne Canyon lookout, and also at Pocahontas, Jasper NP.
94. Common Yellowthroat (Geothlypis trichas) Noted from the Cave and Basin Trail, Banff, with six also in Moose Meadow, Banff NP. Pishing helps to get superb close views of this species.
95. Wilson's Warbler (Wilsonia pusilla) Just two noted at Moose Meadow, Banff NP.
96. Chipping Sparrow (Spizella passerine) Noted widely in small numbers.
97. Fox (Slate-coloured) Sparrow (Passerella iliaca) Three near the treeline of the Parker’s Ridge Trail, Japser NP.
98. Lincoln's Sparrow (Melospiza lincolnii) A male singling in the Three Sisters’ Campsite, outside of Banff NP, and three or four in the Moose Meadow, Banff NP.
99. Dark-eyed (Slate-coloured) Junco (Junco hyemalis) Common, and all of the Rocky Mountain ‘Slate-coloured’ form.
100. White-crowned Sparrow (Zonotrichia leucophry) Less common that expected with four at Moose Meadow, Banff NP, and singles along both the Parker’s Ridge Trail and Pyramid Lake.
101. White-throated Sparrow (Zonotrichia albicollis) A single at Blue Ridge was the only sighting of the trip.
102. Red-winged Blackbird (Agelaius phoeniceus) Noted in very small numbers in Kananaskis Country, between Calgary and Banff, at Turner Valley, and between Calgary and Turner Valley. Our only sighting in the Rocky Mountains was a single at Cottonwood Slough, Jasper NP.
103. Brown-headed Cowbird (Molothrus ater) Three between Lake Louise and Jasper, several in Jasper, and two in Turner Valley.
104. Grey-crowned Rosy-Finch (Leucosticte tephrocotis) Two birds seen in flight at the top of the Parker Ridge Trail, Jasper NP.
105. Red Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra) 13 flew over Whistlers Campground, Jasper NP, and a male in the Valley of the Five Lakes, Jasper NP. Also heard flying over Pyramid Lake, Jasper NP.
106. Pine Siskin (Carduelis pinus) Common.
107. Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) A single at Maligne Lake, Jasper NP and a pair at Lake O’Hara, Yoho NP.
108. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) Encountered widely, mainly in built up areas and in small numbers.
Animals identified
Black Bear
Grizzly Bear
Marmot
Beaver
Least Ground Squirrel
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
Columbian Ground Squirrel
American Red Squirrel
Coyote
Musk Deer
White-tailed Deer
Elk
Moose
Mountain Goat
Big-horned Sheep
