Introduction
We had long wanted to visit Namibia following two previous birdwatching trips to South Africa and a somewhat ill-fated trip to Malawi. The aim of this trip was to see the Namibia endemics and any birds which we had not seen before. This left a target list of around 75 birds in 24 days.
Timing
We elected to visit Namibia in October (the Austral spring) believing this to be slightly cooler and more bearable than it would be later in the year. We always knew we were trading off intra-African migrants which enter Namibia from the north following the rains which typically arrive in November and into December. Travelling in what amounts to the Namibian spring before the rainy season did have the benefit of seeing the game much more easily as they were tied to waterholes. However, we did miss a number of the intra-African species which can be seen later in the season such as: Violet-tipped Courser; Monotonous Lark; Buffy Pipit, African Crake and Dwarf Bittern to name but a few. In addition, a number of birds had still not acquired their breeding plumage and we did not see Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah for example, and only grotty specimens of Shaft-tailed Whydah, Southern Red Bishop and Chestnut Weaver.
Weather
Pleasant on arrival in Namibia but it got much hotter as October progressed. It was also much hotter and more humid along the Caprivi Strip and into Botswana, as well as in the extreme north east of the country. We established from talking to people on our journey that the rains had come early to Botswana and that once we left the Caprivi Strip this area had seen unseasonal volumes of rain. In our final week it became much cloudier and more humid, with regular rainstorms in the afternoon. Peter Morgan at Kunene River Lodge told us that the cloud had arrived very early this year and with it large numbers of Olive (Madagascar) Bee-eaters three weeks earlier than normal.
Money
At the time of our visit £1 returned N$11.74 (Namibian Dollar). At the time of booking our flights (February 2009) £1 was worth N$15+. We suffered the double whammy of not only a weak Sterling, but in less than 18 months we believe that prices in Namibia had increased by between 25% and 40%, compared to the 2008 Bradt guide we took with us.
The Namibia dollar is pegged to the South Africa Rand and both currencies are widely accepted. We found American Dollars not to be accepted widely. Both the Namibian Dollar and South African Rand are accepted in Botswana, though apparently the latter is preferred.
Credit cards are widely accepted at lodges but not commonly at petrol stations. Namibia is not a cheap country; you will need them!
Flights
We booked direct flights from Gatwick to Windhoek at a cost of £514 each with Namibia Airlines (through www.ebookers.com). The attraction was the direct flight. However, in May the agents contacted us to say that Namibia Airlines had withdrawn their flight from Gatwick, and our remaining options were to cancel or to fly from Gatwick to Windhoek via Munich. With reluctance we accepted this as we were still keen to go to Namibia and the alternatives were much more expensive.
Getting around
Public transport is limited so the only viable way to get around is by hiring a car. We opted to hire a 4x4 (complete with camping gear) partly for the extra clearance, partly to reduce the incidence of punctures, partly for comfort and partly so we could explore off road if needed. As it happens, the road infrastructure is pretty good overall and there were only one or two places we would have struggled without the high clearance. The main roads east, north and south of Windhoek are all tarred and the main birding sites are connected by roads navigable in a normal car. The roads in Etosha were all in good condition and easily driveable without the extra clearance. However, we were there in the dry season and roads in, for example, Etosha could become much more difficult. Having a 4x4 also allowed us to go to Sossusvlei without having to pay the N$110 ‘bus’ journey per person for the short five kilometre drive. Having a 4x4 also gave us the confidence to head to Kunene River Lodge as we were uncertain what the roads would be like in this region.
We used the tent most nights and it did prove useful at some sites such as Etosha NP and Drotsky’s Cabins where the cabins were full.
We hired our Nissan SC 3.2D 4x4 from www.carhirenamibia.com/ though the vehicle wasn’t the best; the single cab prevented any recline in the seats making long distance driving uncomfortable. The engine, whilst relatively frugal, was also extremely noisy. Without the A/C on, heat escaped into the cab reinforcing our uncomfortable existence at times. The total cost was N$13,433 which compared well to other companies we looked at.
We had an issue on returning the car as the small print seemed to indicate that we had to pay for replacement tyres if we had had punctures repaired. One of the workers was clearly after a bung to approve the rental return. We felt vulnerable with the missing car jack and two repaired punctured repairs and so were complicit in getting the rental return approved. However, birders may wish to fully understand the nature of this small print before committing to this company.
Safety
Surely one of the safest countries, possibly in the world, but certainly in Africa. At no point did we feel personally threatened or worried, even when in the northwest where we picked up several hitchhikers including a Himba tribesman complete with a three foot sword.
Accommodation
The choice we faced was whether to book accommodation in advance at what is the peak tourist season, or, given we had the flexibility of camping, to turn up to each site and hope for the best. Not booking worked out well as it provided additional flexibility on our itinerary which we used to good effect. However, we were a little fortunate at Drotsky’s Cabins to be able to hire a boat just for ourselves for the full day without booking. Also, we sense that the Namibian authorities are taking a dim view of people turning up at Etosha National Park without advance booking. When we arrived, and without checking the computer or ringing the park’s HQ the gate attendant simply turned us away saying the park was full. Once into the park the following morning we booked overnight stays at the three main centres and at Okaukuejo, to be fair, we did get one of the last camp sites.
On average, we found that lodge accommodation worked out at around £50 per person per night with bed and breakfast. With an evening meal, the price, again on average, jumped to £100.
We stayed, in order, at the following:
Waterberg – camping and self-catering at the Anderson Campsite, very close to Wilderness Forest Lodge. This is a small campsite in a quiet location, but quite expensive at N$180 per person (pp). www.namibweb.com/waterberg.htm (camping is shown on this link but we don’t know whether it relates to Anderson Campsite).
Rundu – We camped at the Sarasungu River Lodge – N$65 pp. This is a large campsite with an adequate bar and restaurant. The grounds are very birdy and there are good plains along the river from the lodge. www.sarasungariverlodge.com
Shamvura Lodge – camping which can only be used either in conjunction with Mark Paxton’s services as a bird guide or on a river cruise. Charlie’s home cooked food is highly recommended. Camping was N$90 pp, dinner N$150 pp, the boat trip was N$1,050 for the pair of us (approximately 3 hours and accompanied by Mark) and the guided bird walk was N$800 for approximately 4 hours. No charge for sharing the dining room with an excitable goat and otter! www.shamvura.com
Botswana – two nights camping at Drotsky’s Cabins – a fantastic small camp site with a good quality restaurant and bar. Camping was SAR110 pp (South African Rand), dinner SAR140 pp and hiring a boat all day was SAR900 plus fuel (best to book this in advance as it is very popular). The cabins were booked up during our time and for much of the rest of October it would clearly be advisable to book in advance if accommodation was required. Xara’s Lodge is eight kilometres along the river but operated by the same family. Boats to Xara’s Lodge leave from Drotsky’s Cabins. www.drotskycabins.com
Rundu – camping at Ngandu Safari Lodge – N$60 pp. We used this larger complex as we were rapidly running out of daylight. It had an adequate bar and restaurant. The grounds are definitely not as good for birds as Sarasunga Lodge. www.namibweb.com/ngandusafarilodge.htm
Sachsenheim Guest Farm - 30kms east of Etosha’s Von Lindequist Gate – camping and self-catering for – N$70 pp, plus N$20 for the car and N$20 for the campsite. www.namibweb.com/sachsenheim.htm
Etosha NP – We camped for one night at each of the three main centres: Namutoni, Halali, and Okaukuejo – N$400 for each of the pitches. We escaped the midday sun by having fantastic lunches (NS97 pp) in all three restaurants. www.etoshanationalpark.co.za
Hobatere Lodge – dinner, bed and breakfast at Hobatere Lodge – N$887 pp and N$230 pp for a night drive. One of our favourite localities of the trip. www.exclusive.com.na/e_establish/HobatereLodge
Kunene River Lodge - 60km west of Ruacana – camping and self catering at N$75 pp. We stopped one night at this beautifully located site, but with hindsight wished that we’d stopped longer. www.kuneneriverlodge.com
Hobatere Campsite – camping and self-catering at N$65 pp. A small, clean but basic campsite in a dramatic location, just off the main C35 road, and just south of the turnoff to Hobatere Lodge. The campsite can be booked in advance via the Hobatere Lodge link above.
Africat Foundation, Okonjima (near Otjiwarongo) – dinner, bed and breakfast which aims for the long-term conservation of the larger African carnivores – N$853 pp (with 15% discount) and N$400 pp for the conservation drives. www.okonjima.com and www.africat.org
Evergreen Campsite (near Erongo Wilderness Lodge, Omaruru) – camping and self-catering – N$60 pp. A small, clean and basic campsite. www.namibia-accommodation-guide.com/omaruru-accommodation.html
Erongo Wilderness Lodge – dinner, bed and breakfast at N$1350 pp (which includes a ‘free’ guided nature walk in the morning between 1 and 3 hours in length). Nature drives are N$400 pp. www.erongowilderness-namibia.com
Brandberg White Lady Lodge – camping and self-catering for N$65 pp plus N$20 for the car. A large and impersonal campsite. www.brandbergwlodge.com
Long Beach Leisure Park, 10km north of Walvis Bay – camping and self-catering at N$80 pp. Another large and impersonal campsite. www.namibia-accommodation-guide.com/walvis-bay-accommodation.html
Weltevrede Guest Farm located 47km east / north of Sesriem – camping and self-catering at N$60 pp. A small friendly working farm with two pitches. Had breeding Ashy Tits in the acacias in the campsite. About as cheap as it gets in this ‘hot’ touristy area. www.weltevredeguestfarm.com/
Hardap Dam Recreational Resort – camping N$75 pp plus N$45 pp entry fee to the reserve. Good evening meal in the restaurant. www.namibweb.com/hardap.htm
Kalahari Anib Lodge, near Mariental – camping and self catering at the N$125 pp but this includes ‘free’ tea, coffee and juice during the day. This lodge has three well spaced campsites, each with its own shower and toilet away from the lodge and a beautiful swimming pool. Recommended for those wanting to chill, and also has easy Burchell’s Sandgrouse which come to drink at the waterhole mid-morning. www.gondwana-collection.com/Kalahari_Anib_Lodge.htm
Arnhem Cave and Restcamp about 70km eastsoutheast of Windhoek International Airport, with camping and self catering at N$60 pp plus N$100 pp for the guided cave trip. A small basic campsite which had nothing to commend it. www.namibweb.com/arnhemcave.htm
Elisenheim Guest Farm about 15km north of Windhoek – camping at N$60 pp plus N$100 pp for a very good evening meal. Recommended. www.natron.net/tour/elisenheim/main.html
Food
Althogh rather meat orientated, the food overall was excellent. Despite having camping equipment we found that more often than not we could eat in a lodge cheaper than we could buy and cook the food ourselves.
Trip Reports and literature
In terms of a site guide, there really is only one publication to take and that is the excellent ‘Southern African Birdfinder: Where to Find 1,400 bird species in Southern Africa and Madagascar’ (Callan Cohen et al). We found the sites easy to find and very accurately described.
We also used a number of birdwatching reports:
Bray, James. Namibia and Botswana 18th October to November 4th 2008 (www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=1528)
Merrill, Ian. Namibia 209: The Namib Desert, Namibia Escarpment and Etosha 17th to 29th January. (www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=1584)
Rockjumper Birding Tours. Namibia, Botswana and Zambia 13th to 30th October 2006 (www.rockjumper.co.za/upload/trip-reports/2006 Oct 13-30 Namibia, Botswana & Zambia RBT.pdf
Schwartz, Benjamin. Nambia June – July 2008 (www.surfbirds.com/trip.php?id=1434)
We also used the following published books:
McIntyre, Chris. Namibia. Bradt (June 2008)
Sinclair, Ian et al. Sasol’s Birds of Southern Africa. Third Edition. (Struik 2002)
Stuart, Chris & Tilde. Field Guide to Mammals of Southern Africa. (Struik 2001)
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Rockjumper for providing the basic itinerary during discussions on their Antarctica trip. Callan Cohen of Birding Africa (www.birdingafrica.com) is also thanked for providing additional information on key birds. Birding Africa will also organise itineraries, car hire and accommodation as required though we did not take advantage for this trip.
Sites visited
We largely followed the standard birding route though in an anti-clockwise direction from Windhoek. Most birding teams do the trip clockwise. We wanted to get the long drive to Botswana out of the way first, and also to generate time if needed, to drive onto Victoria Falls. Also, rather than panicking at Sossusvlei looking for Burchell’s Courser at Namibia’s strongest and most reliable site, we were hoping to see them further north thereby being able to relax at Sossusvlei. The sites are very well described in Southern African Birdfinder. We have commented on just a few sites which might add value to future birders’ strategies.
Waterberg – A fantastic site which is famed for being very reliable for the localised Ruppell’s Parrot which we found easily close to Waterberg Forest Lodge. However, the parrot is also easy at Hobatere Lodge and further north in the Kunene River Lodge area. If time is at a premium then Waterberg could be sacrificed – though we would recommend its inclusion on most birders’ itineraries.
Roy’s Camp – Surrounded by good acacia which attracts the very local Black-faced Babbler at what is currently regarded as Namibia’s most reliable site. We failed twice in very hot midday visits. There are other sites around the eastern gate of Etosha NP. If you can pass this site in the mornings then it is definitely worth doing.
Rundu area – Some good birds can be located near the sewage works such as Dwarf Bittern, African Crake and Brown Firefinch on the floodplain (summer), and Lesser Jacana has been reliably recorded on the lower settling ponds. If, as we did, you fail to see Lesser Jacana try staying at Nkwasi Lodge (20km east of Rundu) where this species is apparently quite reliable from the river cruises.
The woodland 20km to the southwest of Rundu is being decimated. There is no woodland at all south of the path to the radar station and it won’t be long before the woodland to the north is all but gone. Mark Paxton does not believe Arnott’s Chat occurs in this area any longer, and other species are becoming harder to find. He also does not believe Dickinson’s Kestrel occurs this far west now and his suggestion was to start looking for it from the Mohembo border crossing eastwards.
The Sarasunga River Lodge had birdy grounds and easy Rufous-bellied Heron and Coppery-tailed Coucal along the Okavango River. We also had a Grey Kestrel which is exceptionally rare in this area and indeed is one of the most sought after birds in the southern African area.
Shamvura Lodge – In our view this site should be on most birders’ itinerary as it is conveniently located between Rundu and Botswana. Mark Paxton knows the Shamvura area well and has a high success rate showing birders Souza’s Shrike and Racket-tailed Roller. He also has a pair of Orange-winged Pytillia close to his lodge which represented a significant range extension. He will also take birders to a patch of woodland which he believes Sharp-tailed Starling use as a flyway and certainly he sees the birds as regularly at one particular site as they are seen anywhere in Namibia. Arnott’s Chat is also a regular in the area.
The Shamvura Lodge grounds are quite extensive and we saw two species of nightjar, as well as our only Grey-headed Parrot, Red-headed Weaver and African Barred Owlet of the trip. It is a shame Western-banded Snake-eagle appears to be a gem of the past.
The river cruises leave from the lodge and we had a fantastic experience with the most number of hippos that we had anywhere, and a colony of Southern Carmine Bee-eaters which was truly memorable. We did not see or hear Luapula Cisticola elsewhere and this is, arguably, Mark’s key bird along the river which he was able to find easily despite the mid-afternoon heat. We also saw our only Rock Pratincole and Red-necked Falcon here.
In summary, although expensive, the slightly eccentric Mark for us was well worth the money.
Okavango Panhandle – A highlight of the trip. Drotsky’s Cabins knows of roost sites of two pairs of Pel’s Fishing-owl currently. We were taken to a site owned by the army though the birds here are higher in the trees so the views are good but not mouth watering. The guides will only go to their backup alternative site if they need to as the birds tend to roost lower down and the disturbance is potentially much higher. The guide also showed us several roosting White-backed Night-herons but were a little over-zealous in the identification of three ‘black’ egrets mistaking them for Slaty. The nearby, but not recommended Shakawe Lodge looked abandoned though we think the owners still take the occasional visitor. We could not fault Drotsky’s Cabins and would suggest birders do not take any chances. On passing Shakawe Lodge we were fortunate to have good views of Western-banded Snake-eagle which are likely to be breeding here.
The birding was also good in Drotsky’s Cabins and we found our only Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike and Brown Firefinch of the trip. Easy Bradfield’s Hornbill also.
The border crossing was straightforward and as Dee completed our paperwork I was able to find our only Mosque Swallows of the trip.
Mahango Game Reserve – The key bird here is Slaty Egret which took some effort to find but we finally scored near the giant baobab. We also had nice views of an adult Martial Eagle drinking, and three or four Wattled Cranes. The drive through the northern section of the reserve is suitable for normal saloon cars though high clearance is needed when heading on the track south. We did so and were rewarded with great views of Buffalo, Elephant, Zebra, Sable, Roan, Giraffe and Warthog.
Kunene River Lodge – A fantastic locality owned by Peter and Hilary Morgan, a really nice couple. It is, however, a site for which few birders seem to currently visit and which should now be firmly on the standard birding itinerary. The journey north from Hobatere Lodge only took us 4.5 hours and the road north of Opuwo and then east of Otjiveze has been recently improved. Rufous-tailed Palm-thrush, Bare-cheeked Babbler and Red-necked Spurfowl are all easy at the lodge. Peter has Cinderella Waxbill well and truly sussed and this bird is much better bird than field guides suggest and is well worth the trip alone.
Etosha National Park – There is nothing we can say that can do this site justice, nor anything that could add any value. Suffice to say the best area was in the Okaukuejo and Okondeka areas, though we liked the natural feel of the waterhole at Halali. Lion is the main predator which is clearly doing well judging by the frequency of our sightings, and complete absence of one of its main prey items, warthog.
Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge – Just over an hour’s drive from the Andersson Gate of Etosha NP, this locality is famous amongst birders for easy Hartlaub’s and Orange River Francolins. We found the latter easily from the path heading behind the chalets. This looks a nice area to stay though the heat was unremitting. We had intended to stay here but as we had seen the main bird and the owners weren’t here we decided to push on to Hobatere Lodge where, en route, a small party of Southern Pied Babbler flew across the road.
Hobatere Lodge – As well as good game such as elephants, lions and rarely seen leopards and cheetahs, the lodge proved not only to be a great place in its own right, but great for birding too. Bare-cheeked Babbler and Olive Bee-eater were easy by the main lodge. In the mature mopane woodland we at last saw Violet Woodhoopoe, as well as easy Ruppell’s Parrot, Verreaux’s Eagle-owl and White-tailed Shrike. In summer Hobatere can attract such sought after species as Buffy Pipit, Violet-tipped Courser and Dusky Lark.
Erongo Wilderness Lodge – The most expensive accommodation of the entire trip and very nearly worth every penny (camping is not permitted). Erongo comes into its own for very easy to see birds such as Freckled Nightjar, Hartlaub’s Francolin and Rockrunner. All these birds can be found at other localities but nowhere are they easier to see than here. If you don’t mind working for some tricky birds then this site can be avoided and some money saved. However, this was one of our favourite localities of the entire trip, helped by the rocky landscape admittedly, the sympatheic design of accommodation into the rocks, but also the helpful staff and management, the food… and of course the birds. We also saw Barred Wren-warbler, Ashy Tit and Verreaux’s Eagle, as well as the localised Black Mongoose.
Brandberg – Famous for the most accessible point for seeing ‘Desert’ Elephants and for the ‘White Lady’ rock painting. We found the birding straightforward with Benguela Long-billed Lark, Herero Chat and Ruppell’s Korhaan all notched up easily enough. We also saw Tractrac Chat and untickable views of Stark’s Lark. However, 30kms southsouthwest of Uis we secured tickable views of Starks Lark, along with Gray’s Lark, Burchell’s Courser, Ruppell’s Korhaan and Lanner.
Okonjima - Africat Foundation – If you are keen to see leopard and don’t mind being managed within an inch of your life then this is the site for you. Burchell’s Sandgrouse is meant to occur but we could not get access to the main lake, and no sandgrouse came in to the waterhole by the main camp. There is a lot of acacia here and it was no surprise to find Barred Wren-warbler; what was more of a surprise was that it had taken this long in the trip!
Sossusvlei – Certainly an experience and the red dunes are extremely photogenic. We found Sossusvlei to be a little too touristy for our liking though we did see good birds in the form of another Burchell’s Courser, and Ruppell’s Korhaan and Ludwig’s Bustard.
Hardap Dam Conservation Reserve – Very little seen in terms of either birds or game. This area does attract some good birds e.g. Sclater’s Lark, Rufous-eared Warbler and Karoo Eremomela and perhaps we were just unlucky.
Sites not visited
Caprivi Strip east to Victoria Falls
We did not visit this area owing to conflicting information on cost and hassle of the border crossing, the distance of getting there, and whether the falls from the Zambian side were in fact worth seeing in October. The woodland birding east from Divundu (close to the Botswana Mohembo border crossing) in general, is much better than in the birding west to Rundu, Thanks to Mark Paxton and previous trips to the continent, we only needed Dickinson’s Kestrel, Black Coucal, Sharp-tailed Starling, Collared Palm-thrush, Shelley’s Sunbird, Grey-rumped Swallow and Western-banded Snake-eagle. We were undecided about birding the eastern Caprivi Strip but once we had caught up with the snake-eagle at Drotsky’s the decision was made, particular as the other species are straightforward in adjacent countries. It should be noted that the highly localised Taita Falcon (which we had seen on a previous trip to the South Africa: http://www.worldtwitch.com/natal_hunter.htm) is currently not as easy at Victoria Falls as in previous years.
Daily log
3 October 2009
Despite a delayed flight from Munich, we landed at Windhoek more or less on time at 08:45. Pre-arranged pickup from airport to car hire offices took about 40 minutes. The car hire company’s paperwork took much longer than it should have, but we were eventually on our way north, via a supermarket, at 13:00. Several Pale-chanting Goshawks, Kalahari Scrub-robin and out first goodie in the form of Monterio’s Hornbill break up a somewhat monotonous first journey. Hit the jackpot without trying at Waterberg with three pre-roost Ruppell’s Parrots feeding quietly. Freckled Nightjar and African Scops-owl heard during the night at the campsite near Wilderness Forest Lodge.
4 October 2009
The early morning birding is very good along the road to Wilderness Forest Lodge, and at the lodge itself. Rosy-faced Lovebird provides a pastel-perfect way to start the day, quickly followed by a very obliging Pearl-spotted Owlet, the calls of which conveniently attracted new birds in the form of mobbing Carp’s Tit, Violet-eared Waxbill and Burnt-necked Eremomela. Just a single Damara Hornbill was found along with two of the same Ruppell’s Parrots from yesterday. A single Golden-tailed Woodpecker and a pair of African Hawk-eagle rounded off an excellent first morning of Namibian birding.
Despite much walking in the acacia scrub around Roy’s Camp, clearly the time of our visit and the intense heat militated against us as we drew a blank on Black-faced Babbler, now split from Black-lored Babbler occurring in northeast Africa.
Continue our drive northeast and make it to Rundu Sewage Works with an hour of light remaining. The nice array of ducks and waders was effectively ignored as we looked, unsuccessfully, for Lesser Jacana on the lower ponds away from the road. A Pearl-spotted Owlet above our camp site and lots of Square-tailed Nightjars heard in the scrub adjacent to Sarasunga River Lodge.
5 October 2009
An early morning walk along river produced the hoped for Rufous-bellied Heron; a species we knew could be tricky even in the Okavango Panhandle. Coppery-tailed and Senegal Coucals were critically examined through the telescope for defining features, though size and call were the best differentiators. Whilst admiring locals washing clothes and bathing in the river which still harbours Nile Crocodile we noticed what looked like a kestrel (rather than falcon) flying through. The binoculars revealed a completely grey kestrel but ‘expecting’ any kestrel - should we indeed be so fortunate - to be Dickinson’s Kestrel, the brain could not compute. The possibility of a juvenile Dickinson’s Kestrel were soon ruled out back at the car with Grey Kestrel one of the surprises of the trip.
Rundu Sewage Works still fails to produce Lesser Jacana and this ultimately became one of the enduring dips of the trip. Our first Hartlaub’s Babblers which were to become much commoner further east, Magpie Shrike, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Southern Pochard and Fulvous Whistling-duck were about the best offerings, though the exquisite Kittlitz’s Plover are always hard to beat.
Vungu Vungu Dairy was only a few kilometres past the sewage works where we had heard that African Marsh Owls could be regularly seen. However, nobody at the dairy knew anything about the marsh or owls, so apart from grilling our first Bradfield’s (Sabota) Lark for future reference, and a nesting pair of Mariqua Flycatcher, we left with just a few litres of gorgeous fresh milk for our troubles.
We were surprised to find Shamvura Lodge empty on our arrival despite October and November being the peak tourist season. We were quickly on Mark Paxton’s river cruise with African Skimmer soon under the belt courtesy of a sandbar close to the lodge. One of the advantages of using Mark is that he knows his area well and we had high hopes of seeing both Chirping and Luapula Cisticolas with him. Not only did Mark not disappoint but we were able to get good comparative views within about 15 minutes. The enduring memory, however, belongs to the colony of Southern Carmine Bee-eaters and it was a real thrill to watch these birds from the boat at their colony, and even more so when a hunting Red-necked Falcon zipped through. With a decent number of hippos and the odd croc for company this is what we expected from Namibia as we soaked up a gorgeous sunset. Two close to dusk Rock Pratincole on the return journey to the lodge, and superb views of African Barred Owlet at the lodge itself rounded off a hugely enjoyable afternoon.
Charlie’s evening meal was the best during our entire 24 days, and it took some considerable effort thereafter to walk around the grounds looking for nightjars. Fiery-necked Nightjar was straightforward but it was not until close to midnight that we eventually had good views of a calling Square-tailed Nightjar.
6 October 2009
An early morning start with Mark got off well with Grey-headed Parrot by the entrance to the lodge, quickly followed by Meyer’s Parrot nearby. Our first Arrow-marked Babblers were closely scrutinised as Mark informed us that Black-faced Babbler occurs sparingly all the way along the Caprivi Strip to Mahango. A pair of sunbirds flew over the road and landed somewhat distantly. Mark scrutinised the female and thought Shelley’s rather than the much commoner Mariqua. Failing to appreciate that females of the two species show the stronger differences, I focussed on the male which looked like a Mariqua to me. However, Mark is an excellent birder who knows his area well and for me it is likely to be one that got away. A calling woodhoopoe could not be safely identified as Mark is sure Violet Woodhoopoe also occurs in this area – confounding all the current literature and fieldguides - alongside the commoner Green Woodhoopoe.
Racket-tailed Roller © Mark Paxton
Mark then took me to a stony field where he had found Orange-winged Pytillia a few years ago representing as it was a new bird for Namibia and a huge range extension. Our luck wasn’t in though we did have good views of an Icterine Warbler, Mark’s first of the season. Nearby, we tried a good patch of forest for Sharp-tailed Starling, having brief and slightly distant views of Brown-backed Honeyguide only. Mark last saw the starling two days previously but it is always hit and miss. My luck was definitely in though as driving to one of Mark’s seven Souza’s Shrike sites he spots a Racket-tailed Roller. This proves to be of the Zambian race according to Mark which is a scarce visitor and explains why it is on its own. The Namibian race typically feeds in loose flocks. A pair of Souza’s Shrike rounded off an excellent morning’s birding, with a striking male Red-headed Weaver at Shamvura Lodge on return.
We reluctantly tear ourselves away as the long drive to Drotsky’s Cabins beckoned. The border crossing was painless, apart from writing the car’s engine and chassis number about four times on different forms and books! Whilst we find on arrival that there are a few pitches at Drotsky’s Cabins, there is no accommodation available either at Drotsky’s or Xaro’s despite my promise to Dee of two nights of luxury! We are further dismayed to learn that there are no boats available for us on either of our days. However, the owner makes a couple of changes and whilst there was no boat on our first day, one was to be made available for us the following day. Birding in the grounds and nearby produced our only Brown Firefinch and the superb Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike of the trip, and our first Bradfield’s Hornbill.
7 October 2009
The river cruise was very birdy with the early stars being Southern Carmine and White-fronted Bee-eaters. It wasn’t long before one of the biggies fell and in the end we saw three White-backed Night-herons, a species we had missed previously on a number of African trips. Not long after we were watching the near-mythical Pel’s Fishing-owl and the Okavango Panhandle area must surely represent one of the best chances of seeing this species anywhere. Rufous-bellied Heron, Wattled Crane, Burchell’s Sandgrouse, Long-toed Lapwing, Little Bittern, African Skimmer, Water Diccup and Goliath Heron made for a strong supporting cast. The driver / guide took us to a marsh where Slaty Egret can sometimes be seen. We found three very distant ‘black’ egrets and with the light and a poor quality telescope they did appear slaty rather than blackish, with the guide insisting these were Slaty Egrets. Not convinced, the shoes were off and eventually after some splodging I was close enough to see they were all Black Herons. However, birders should note that the guides know where the birds are but not necessarily the birds.
Lunch at Drotsky’s Cabins revealed little except for showy Chirping Cisticola near the lodge.
The afternoon river cruise was primarily to look for Lesser Moorhen and with a huge amount of luck Slaty Egret or Western-banded Snake-eagle. We were unable to believe our good fortune when, on passing Sakawe Lodge, we see a raptor flying low and through the binoculars I pick up an obvious broad white tail band as it flew up to land low down in a tree. Our driver / guide immediately took the boat to the river bank where we were able to admire the bird perched. Our guide, who sees Western-banded Snake-eagle on two or three of every ten cruises, was keen to get closer. Abandoning the boat we went through fields and over fences to arrive at the tree with the bird no doubt long gone. The guide was also adamant the Red-billed Firefinches on the way back to the boat were in fact Brown Firefinches. Good views of Lesser Moorhen in a quiet tributary ended a fantastic day.
During the evening meal, a guide with significant experience of border crossings to Victoria Falls tells us the process. Zimbabwe was a problem for us on principal as we did not want to support the regime. We were told that going through the Zambian border crossing would take anywhere between two and four hours and would cost up to £150 as there are seven different taxes to pay, and most of them are spurious designed to extract the maximum revenue. Having seen Western-banded Snake-eagle, and learning about this experience, we decided we were on holiday and that it was not worth the hassle, particularly as several people had informed us that the falls on the Zambian side were not spectacular in October. Conversely, we also heard that October was the best time to go on the Zambian side as the reduced water volumes resulted in less spray and a more visible waterfall. All that said, Mark Paxton disagrees and in his experience the cost is more like £50 and that it would take between 30 and 60 minutes to cross the border.
8 October 2009
Leaving Drotsky’s not long after dawn, the border crossing back into Namibia proved uneventful and a number of hirundines was instructive with Mosque and Greater Striped-swallow seen well. With the pressure on for Slaty Egret we birded the area in Mahango Game Park as instructed in Southern African Birdfinder seeing nothing up to the giant baobab. Not obvious on arrival, but we eventually picked up a distant ‘black’ egret which did look good. Walking into the marsh from the giant baobab proved impossible due to the drop in height. A nervous 30 minute wait followed before the bird flew into a position where the key feature of all yellow legs could be seen: Slaty Egret, whew! Wattled Crane, Martial Eagle and an impressive array of ungulates (Sable, Roan, Kadu and Red Lechwe) completed the enjoyable spectacle. A 20 km drive through the southern part of the reserve saw us clock up fantastic views of African Elephant, our only buffalo of the trip, and more ungulates.
A long drive to Rundu and got there just before dark. Stayed at Ngandu Safari Lodge, close to Sarasunga Lodge.
9 October 2009
An early morning visit to Rundu Sewage Works for Lesser Jacana was ignored in favour of birding the woodland 20km south of Rundu. We should have checked the area out as we drove north as a village has replaced the woodland to the south of the track to the radar station, and the woodland north of the track had been badly degraded in places. Undeterred, we birded the woodland on the opposite side of the road to the radar station and soon ticked off showy Tinkling Cisticola. Mark Paxton was confident that I would not see Arnott’s Chat in the Rundu area any more so I didn’t bother trying, and it is a species easy to see elsewhere.
A visit to Roy’s Camp for Black-faced Babbler during the heat of the day drew another blank, though one of the owners confirms they were seen earlier that morning. The staff at the Von Lindequist gate of Etosha National Park turn us away saying it was completely full and we have to retrace our steps 30 kms to camp at the rather pleasant Sachsenheim Guest Farm.
10 October 2009
Not knowing what to expect, we navigated our way past the Von Lindequist gate of Etosha NP to find the first park HQ where we encountered friendly staff who confirmed one night’s accommodation at each of the park’s three main centres. We concentrated our efforts on the Dikdik trail, and then the Namutoni to Tsumcor area where we were quickly rewarded with our first lions; a male close to the road and another two males rather more distantly. Bird of the day went to Double-banded Courser, closely followed by an adult Bateleur; surely one of the best looking raptors in the world. Larks proved to be surprisingly scarce with just three Red-capped Larks for nearly a whole day’s effort. Secretary-bird was duly scrutinised, as were around ten Desert Cisticolas - some representing our best views ever. An evening visit to Namutoni waterhole proved disappointing with the pick of the birds being a mixed flock of White-winged Black and Whiskered Terns.
11 October 2009
An early morning drive along the Dikdik Trail proved to be inspired as we find two or three Black-faced Babblers which proved a little challenging to see in the acacia scrub. Birded the area between Namutoni and Halali but see very little of note apart from two Northern Black Korhaan and three Spotted Hyenas. No larks either.
Two hours at Halali - including an excellent buffet lunch - sees us failing to connect with either Violet Woodhoopoe or Bare-cheeked Babbler of which this centre is so famed. Courtesy of two security guards, we are shown African Scops-owl and Southern White-faced Owl. A non-breeding Shaft-tailed Whydah is eventually identified amongst the many queleas at the waterhole.
African Scops-owl © Mike Hunter
Such is Etosha’s reputation, an afternoon foray in the area to the west of Halali was strangely disappointing despite seeing four female lions, Greater Kestrel and the superb Burchell’s Courser, the latter which we had missed on our last trip to South Africa. We tried hard for cheetah which seems to be seen more frequently in this part of Etosha than anywhere but without any joy.
Keen on seeing leopard, we maintained a vigil at the Halali floodlit waterhole until midnight, with the spectacle of many hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse coming in and out to drink before dusk, and two Rufous-cheeked Nightjars feeding just after. A fantastically strongly maned lion, five Black Rhinos, two Black-backed Jackals, a Cape Fox, 28 African Elephants and an African Wild Cat were clearly too much for any leopard to venture forth. Southern White-faced Owl also seen several times during the night. Too exhausted to contemplate looking for Honey Badger - for which Halali is also famed - given the lateness of the hour.
12 October 2009
With Bare-cheeked Babbler and Violet Woodhoopoe burning a hole in our lists we are disappointed to find that Halali continues to fail to deliver. Birding from Halali to Okaukuejo we quickly found our first Red-crested Korhaan of the trip, clearly preferring bushy areas compared to Northern Black Korhaan. Another eight lions (three females and five youngsters) were difficult to tear ourselves away from, but when we did we at last started to see larks with Spike-heeled, Red-capped and the now ubiquitous Bradfield’s (Sabota) Lark. Our only Lesser Spotted Eagle of the trip overhead and a single male Chestnut-banded Plover on Etosha Pan. We escaped the heat of the day by having another excellent lunch at Okaukuejo. En route to Gemsbokvlate in the afternoon at least three Burchell’s Courser and our first Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark associating with its Grey-backed counterparts.
Burchell’s Courser © Mike Hunter
The Okankuejo HQ knew nothing of our three-night booking made at Namutoni and we were lucky to get in at the very last camp site following some pleasant but firm discussions. Atmospherically, the Okankuejo Waterhole was not as good as Halali, but it still pulled in the animals with around 60 African Elephants, two Black-backed Jackal, three giraffe, a single Black and two White Rhinos. Our laziness from the previous night was also duly rewarded with two Honey Badgers showing off their character for much of the time we were present. Rufous-cheeked Nightjar and a Barn Owl completed a good day’s work.
13 October 2009
Our last morning in Etosha and we bird the area between Okaukuejo and Okondeka which proved to be the best area for birds, at least for us, in the whole of the national park. The highlight had to be the 16 lions (three males, 6 females and the rest cubs) which crossed the road close to the car by the Okondeka waterhole. Eastern Clapper Lark was easily found in the area and the many hundreds of Namaqua Sandgrouse was a spectacle as always, though they were more distant here and into the sun. Pygmy Falcon, Burchell’s Courser, Southern Anteating Chat, Capped Wheatear and Pink-billed Lark propelled the morning’s efforts into the memorable.
We were aware that Tim and Laurel Osborne of Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge may not be present but we had permission to bird the area if there was no one around. As it happens we missed them by a day. The heat was close to unbearable and we really did not think we had any chance of finding the target species until the evening. Finding a path behind the chalets, and working our way carefully along checking under bushes and trees, it was a fantastic feeling to hit the jackpot with superb views of panting Orange River Francolin.
The frequently tricky Southern Pied-babbler flew across the road between Tandala Ridge and Hobatere. Arriving at Hobatere our strategy of not booking ahead was nearly unravelled as we grabbed the last cabin. Hobatere proves to be a fantastic place with friendly staff and great environs. We were soon watching our first White-tailed Shrikes. Although the species proves to be common further north, it sticks firmly as our bird of the entire trip. A roosting Verreaux’s Eagle-owl close to the lodge was a great evening meal aperitif. A night drive produced two lionesses, four Small-spotted Genets, two Striped Polecats, Springbok, Gemsbok, and a Barn Owl.
14 October 2009
At last find a group of Bare-cheeked Babblers around Hobatere Lodge early morning after a mock charge by one of the local elephants! Equally photogenic Damara Hornbills on strategically positioned tree stumps. A short drive to a hide by a waterhole and then to the air strip also delivers on Violet Woodhoopoe, some easy Ruppell’s Parrots, Tawny Eagle and Short-toed Rock-thrush. Another lion – this one our thirty-second of the trip – was by far the most impressive such was its size and mane. Breeding Olive Bee-eaters by the small rubbish dump were digitally immortalised and not for the first time this trip I had twinges of regret at selling all my Nikon gear recently! These bee-eaters range from Gabon and don’t see Madagascar at all. Not only on that basis is the name of Olive Bee-eater preferred, but there have been whisperings of a potential future split.
Damara Hornbill © Mike Hunter
A long drive to Kunene River Lodge via Ruacana with no stops for birds given the distance and our desire not to drive in the dark. Stocked up with food and fuel in Ruacana we stopped only for Ruppell’s Parrot and several flocks of Olive Bee-eater en route to Kunene River Lodge. The road this way was certainly rough in places and not recommended without high clearance. We got out of the car, heard a call we could not place and within 20 seconds of arrival had ticked off one of the two main birds of the area: Rufous-tailed Palm-thrush! The Red-necked Spurfowls around the lodge proved just as interesting as they are not swynnertoni as expected, but a mixture of both swynnertoni and lehmanni. As we discovered back home, Handbook of the Birds of the World does even worse by suggesting the form in Namibian is the nominate afer!
Peter Morgan who owns the lodge proves to be an exceptionally nice bloke, even running back half a mile from walking his dog to inform us that he had just located a feeding Bennett’s Woodpecker which regrettably was not there when we got to the area. Another Ruppell’s Parrot which Peter confirmed is generally common in the area. The good news is that Peter has a reliable site for Cinderella Waxbill and with expectations heightened for tomorrow we enjoyed the facilities of what is an excellently positioned lodge set on the banks of the River Kunene.
15 October 2009
More great views of Rufous-tailed Palm-thrush but we were unable to find Bennett’s Woodpecker despite much effort. We set off with Peter around midday in the hope of seeing waxbills coming into drink during the heat of the day. Our luck was in as even before we’d reached the stream, Peter found our target Cinderella Waxbill feeding quietly in an acacia. Another two by the stream made a total of ten. We were able to enjoy this bird that few birders still seem reluctant to travel for. It is well worth the effort and Peter took time to explain the main differences between this and Grey Waxbill, and also remarked on how many books still can’t get it right e.g. Sasol’s Birds of Southern Africa which shows red in the tail. Peter also showed us one of his books which appeared to show a Grey Waxbill doctored to look like a Cinderella! Also along the shallow valley were Common Scimitarbill, Long-billed Crombec, Pririt Batis, Bare-cheeked Babbler and non-breeding plumaged Chestnut Weaver.
Cinderella Waxbill © Peter Morgan
With the long drive to Hobatere Lodge beckoning, we tore ourselves from what has been an excellent locality in the hands of Peter and Hilary Morgan who have been fantastic hosts. Apart from the first four kilometres west of Kunene River Lodge where the road has not been upgraded - but navigable with care in a low clearance vehicle - the road to Opuwe via Otjiveze had been recently upgraded and we glided along often at 100km per hour on slightly reduced tyre pressures. For the time involved and for the quality of the birds on offer, we would certainly recommend all birders add Kunene River Lodge to their itineraries, particular now the road has been improved. In addition to the main two goodies, the plain-breasted Bennett’s Woodpecker is a reasonable candidate for a future split. With luck on our side again, we took the last available campsite at Hobatere just before dark.
16 October 2009
Knowing that we were going to Erongo Wilderness Lodge we didn’t look hard early morning for Hartlaub’s Francolin or Rockrunner which were meant to be reasonably common around the campsite. Meet up with Steve Braine at Hobatere Lodge who had been leading a birding trip when we had stayed two nights previously. Regrettably, there are no new birds for us which warrant another night’s stay. We take the opportunity to ring Erongo Wilderness Lodge as we think our luck will run out on us at some point. The Gods were with us as they only have one cabin for one night available for the rest of October!
Denise is always keen to support worthwhile ventures when on holiday and had identified the Africat Foundation near Okonjima from the Namibian Bradt guide. It soon transpired that things had changed dramatically since the publication of the guide, with a penal pricing strategy in place for those wanting to camp. Not only had prices rocketed for everything, the entire project was geared towards groups that evidently wanted to be managed for every minute of their stay to within an inch of their lives! Being independently minded we felt immediately claustrophobically closeted! However, here we were and the best we could do was negotiate a 15% discount for one room.
The Africat Foundation is famous for having easy to see, habituated, radio-collared leopards. Indeed, much research over the years has been done here on leopard ecology and they remain arguably the most photographed cats on the continent. We were deprived of another NS400 (£34) each for a two-hour safari though the joy of seeing this fantastic cat was marred by the ease in which we saw it and the anticlimax which followed. The best was left to the end though as after the evening meal we enjoyed four very engaging and full of character porcupines fed on scraps put out for them by staff.
17 October 2009
Despite valiant attempts by staff to extract more money from us for another activity this morning, we opted to get away from it for a bit by walking along one of the marked trails on our own. This proves to be an inspired strategy as we notch up our firstBarred Wren-warbler and, somewhat surprisingly, our first Fawn-coloured Lark.
The journey from Africat to Erongo was uneventful though two groups of Southern Pied-babbler along the B2483 indicate possibly good numbers of what can be a tricky species in Southern Africa. Our first White-rumped Swifts also. The managers at Erongo Wilderness Lodge kindly let us have a premature walk around the grounds even though we were not booked in until the following night. We take full advantage with Dee chilling and reading by the pool and me working hard in the strong afternoon heat to notch up Hartlaub’s Francolin and the fantastic Rockrunner, the latter running White-tailed Shrike to a close second for bird of the trip. Black Mongoose was a fortunate sighting, with Mountain Chat, and the outsized-billed White-throated Canary also around the restaurant. Stayed at the nearby Evergreen Campsite which had calling African Scops-owl and Pearl-spotted Owlet as a night-time chorus.
18 October 2009
Our favourite sites of the trip to date had been Hobatere Lodge and Drotsky’s Cabins, but we loved Erongo Wilderness Lodge and the sympathetic way they had built the tented cabins into the rocks. Whilst very expensive at N$1,300 (£111) each you only live once and it was worth it! Working the acacia scrub below the car park, we eventually found Ashy Tit, a species we had inexplicably missed on a previous trip to South Africa. A distant adult Verreaux’s Eagle and a group of four Hartlaub’s Francolin were also noteworthy. Rockrunner was easy to find from the road behind the staff’s quarters, as was Carp’s Tit and our first Black-chested Prinia of the trip. Very keen to see Freckled Nightjar having heard them on both this trip and a previous trip to South Africa, the heavens opened and we were treated to a spectacular lightning show. Having given up and firmly ensconced in our cabin, the rain stopped. With no birds calling and no recordings, we had just about given up when our torch connected with eyeshine atop a rock. Clambouring dangerously in the dark we eventually found a position where we can angle the torch better and sure enough a nightjar took off without calling when exactly zero features can be seen.
19 October 2009
Unhappy with yesterday’s nightjar sighting, we were up at 05:00 to try again. It wasn’t until after 06:00 that we finally found a pair of Freckled Nightjar on the same rock as last night, this time calling away and allowing views to less than ten feet. Fantastic! Despite our sleep deprivation, enjoyed a three hour walk with one of the local guides who was able to identify 11 different types of pooh! Birds included several Rockrunner, three parties of Hartlaub’s Francolin, Carp’s Tit, White-tailed Shrike, Barred Wren-warbler and our first Dusky Sunbirds of the trip. Our first Klipspringers on the walk out of Erongo to find that our vehicle has a flat tyre. After 4,000 kilometers to have our first flat tyre more than justified the expense of a 4x4. Having a second spare we elected not to have the tyre repaired.
Another long journey to Brandberg where, on reflection, we should have birded the area near Usakos as suggested in Southern African Birdfinder for Ovambo Sparrowhawk, probably not much more than 40km from Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Such incompetence was soon forgotten as near Brandberg we easily found Ruppell’s Korhaan, a pale form Karoo Chat and Benguela Long-billed Lark, and heard but are unable to find Herero Chat before the heavens opened. We camped at the White Lady Lodge at Brandberg and discovered our second puncture in one day! Without a spare at all our decision not to repair the first puncture was beginning to look seriously suspect. However, a German who was also camping came straight over, plunged some material in the hole and pumped the tyre up with his electric pump and all without taking the heavy wheel off. Magic! However, in the excitement we left the jack under the car and drove off without it the following morning! The night was further marred as mozzies breached our tent’s defences and we could only lie there as a squadron ate us alive!
20 October 2009
Relieved to make the morning, we visite the Brandberg White Lady rock painting for which the area is famed before birding the road out from Brandberg seeing Benguela Long-billed Lark, Ruppell’s Korhaan, Tractrac Chat and a pair of Verreaux’s Eagle, the latter this time performed just above our heads unlike our views at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. A small flock of larks flushed from the roadside were Stark’s on call but remained untickable and we couldn’t pick then up when they landed. About 2 kms south of the Brandberg junction on the road to Uis we checked the area we had heard Herero Chat yesterday, and sure enough, within a few minutes we were both enjoying binoculars full of four Herero Chats which looked like a cross between Red-backed Shrike and Lesser Whitethroat.
On Steve Braine’s recommendation we traveled to the coast on the C35 and focussed our efforts on the remain llarks. Purple patches in birding are fantastic when they come along and we enjoyed one of those rare moments with Ruppell’s Korhaan, Burchell’s Courser, fantastic views of three Gray’s Larks followed by tickable views of more distant Stark’s Lark where the absence of the tear mark, a feature of Sclater’s Lark, could be discerned, as well as the slightly crested appearance.
We enjoyed a celebratory pizza and camped near Walvis Bay. Despite the height of the tourist season we were surprised to find we were the only campers.
21 October 2009
Up early to ensure we are at Rooibank for dawn and it wasn’t long before we had secured great views of what was easily the best lark of the trip, Dune Lark. With no new birds we aimed to slow down and relax. The nearby Walvis Bay was a treasure trove for me, an unashamed wader fan. The Namibia authorities are to be congratulated for preserving and indeed developing what is a fabulous coastal reserve, which fully merits its RAMSAR status. A slow drive round the substantial area produced Kittlitz’s Plover, Great White Pelican, Little Stint, and more Curlew Sandpiper and Sanderling that I can ever recall seeing in one area, Chestnut-banded Plover and a single Swift Tern. We were unable to find Damara Tern for some reason and, despite looking through hundreds of Greater Flamingos, we could not find a single Lesser! But if our luck was going to turn this was the time to do so!
We were a little wary of visiting Sossusvlei for fear of it being an over-hyped disappointing let down. Some locals we had spoken to during the trip eulogised about the place and so we gave it a go. Not intending to stop en route to Solitaire, we couldn’t resist looking at a lark expertly – and modestly! - found cowering under a rock at 100 kmph. The desert seemed to come alive instantly with even better views of both Stark’s and Gray’s Lark, alongside Grey-backed Sparrowlark and Ruppell’s Korhaan. Made it to the Weltevrede Guest Farm amid another torrential downpour for the owner to tell us that this is the first time she had witnessed rains in the area in October in 15 years; strange weather indeed! Ashy Tit evidently nesting as we enjoyed its many sorties as it carried nesting material.
22 October 2009
Ostrich © Mike Hunter
Another early start in order to cover the 47 kms to the Sossusvlei entrance for opening time. It was not long before we were in a convoy with scenes not too dissimilar to ‘Wacky Races’ with inconsiderate car and bus drivers all throwing dust up when overtaking so that it was impossible to see at times, and all desperate, as we soon found out, to be as high up in the queue by the gate. We then had to endure the ridiculous and over-complicated system to get a permit, and with just the one person issuing permits, queues were long. Having secured the requisite permit and been relieved of N$170, we soon forgot about the inauspicious start to admire the fantastic scenery; even the cloud could not disguise that we were in somewhere special. The birds did not disappoint either with four Ludwig’s Bustards, a bird we had not expected to see, plenty of Ostrich, Ruppell’s Bustard and a single Burchell’s Courser close to the carpark at Sossusvlei when we had given up hope of seeing this species at what is regarded by many as its most reliable global site.
Again grateful for our 4x4 which for the first time we used in four-wheel rive mode, we are able to ignore the expensive N$110 (£9.40) taxi service and drove the five kms to the 4x4 carpark at the end of the ‘road’. We both agreed the effort has been worthwhile as we soaked up the unique environment, and also visited the more spectacular Deadvlei close to Sossusvlei.
The park authorities have again established a discriminatory pricing policy where those staying in the park – but paying much more for the pleasure – can also stay longer at Sossusvlei. With the park for those staying outside closing at 19:00 and with a 50 km journey to reach the park gates from Sossusvlei, we realised staying until sunset for better photos was simply fanciful. We decided to head south and visit Fish Canyon given that we had a few days remaining. However, just seven kms along the C27 being rattled alive in our boneshaker we turned back as we just couldn’t face potentially another 300km of that treatment. We were on holiday after all! Instead we headed east and arrived at the Hardap Recreational Resort for dusk. Another campsite close to empty with just us and one other camper – is not October the peak month for tourism?!
23 October 2009
A well deserved lie in. Bird the tracks from the car though the reserve proves to be the biggest disappointment of the trip with very little of significance seen; highlights being Namaqua Sandgrouse, Fawn-coloured Lark, Chat Flycatcher and European Bee-eater.
With relaxation firmly on the itinerary, the Kalahari Anib Lodge was the chosen destination and we were not disappointed as we were able to see out the heat of the afternoon reading on the hammocks and taking full advantage of the free tea, coffee and cold drinks. Unexpectedly, the waterhole attracted many hundreds of Namaqua Sandgrouse and we enjoyed the later afternoon watching these drink, alongside a constraint stream of passerines.
24 October 2009
A two-hour vigil at the waterhole during the mid morning was rewarding for the few Burchell’s Sandgrouse amongst the many Namaqua Sandgrouse, and three Didric Cuckoos which had several noisy sorties overhead. More reading and drinks until lunchtime when we headed north.
We had decided to do something different and Arnhem Caves, although slightly out of the way, was sort of en route to Windhoek. This was the most disappointing site with a white Namibian owner resentful of Namibian self-rule, and the ablution facilities replete with a wasp nest which saw me running madly out attempting to karate chop a swarm of wasps behind me! I was lucky to end up with just the two bites! Even worse was the uninterested owner who couldn’t even bring himself to murmur a muttered apology. But it was too late to leave and so we put up with the worst accommodation we had so far experienced in Namibia. Our first Pearl-breasted Swallow around the building was inadequate compensation!
25 October 2009
The Arnhem Caves proved to be a pleasant experience despite the smell of ammonia caused by the bat guano which was at times strong. Enjoyed a roosting Barn Owl on the way and three species of bat deep in the cave’s bowels. Avis Dam near Windhoek refused to reveal its best bird for us, the rufous-mantled northern form of Grey-backed Cisticola. There were no clues in the so far flawless Southern African Birdfinder, and we found no obvious habitat and had to let this low probability future split get away. We did, however, see our first Jacobin Cuckoo of the trip. A shortish drive to Elisenheim Guest Farm where we camped for the night. Easy Pearl-spotted Owlet around the campsite and Freckled Nightjar heard from the nearby hills. Excellent food, draught beer and host, and some chatty guests helped to create an enjoyable night.
Souza’s Shrike © Mark Paxton
26 October 2009
Another relaxing start but the acacia scrub around the campsite turned up Barred Wren-warbler, and Pearl-breasted Swallow. The nearby Windhoek Sewage Works had good numbers of ducks and geese but nothing out of the ordinary.
Mike and Denise Hunter
mikee_deedee@yahoo.co.uk
1. Ostrich (Struthio camelus) – Southern African Birdfinder states that genetically wild ostriches can now only be found at Etosha and the Sossusvlei area where we found reasonable numbers. We also saw birds at many other localities in small numbers.
2. Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) – Noted on most standing water, and we also had a single on the Okavango River near Drotsky’s Cabins.
3. Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis) – Three at Windhoek Sewage Works.
4. White-chinned Petrel (Procellaria aequinoctialis) – Six from Walvis Bay.
5. Sooty Shearwater (Puffinus griseus) – A single from Walvis Bay.
6. Cape Gannet (Morus capensis) – Three from Walvis Bay.
7. Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant (Phalacrocorax africanus) – Lots flying from roost along the Okavango River, Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, a single at Rundu Sewage Works, common from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, four at Kunene River Lodge and eight at Windhoek Sewage Works.
8. White-breasted Cormorant (Phalacrocorax lucidus) – Eight at Walvis Bay, five at Avis Dam and six at Windhoek Sewage Works.
9. Cape Cormorant (Phalacrocorax capensis) – Common at Walvis Bay.
10. African Darter (Anhinga rufa) –- Three from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, eight at Mahango Game Reserve and a single at Avis Dam,
11. Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus) – 25+ at Walvis Bay, six on a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, and six also at Hardap Dam.
12. Slaty Egret (Egretta vinaceigula) – It was with considerable relief that we were finally able to identify a single at Mahango NP.
13. Black Heron (Egretta ardesiaca) – Three birds in a marshy area near Drotsky’s Cabins. It pays to be diligent here as the guide was convinced the birds were Slaty Egret until closer views proved that they were, as suspected at long range, this species.
14. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, the river cruises from Shamvuru Lodge and Drotsky’s Cabins, at Walvis Bay and at Avis Dam.
15. Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) – A single on a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam and a single at Hardap Dam, and two at both Avis Dam and Windhoek Sewage Works.
16. Black-headed Heron (Ardea melanocephala) – Singles at both Rundu Sewage Works and from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and five at Etosha NP.
17. Goliath Heron (Ardea goliath) – Two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and a single at Mahango Hame Reserve.
18. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) – A single from the river cruise from Shamvuru Lodge, 15+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and a single at Mahango Game Reserve.
19. Great White Egret (Egretta alba) – A single at Mahango Game Reserve.
20. Intermediate Egret (Mesophoyx intermedia) – 11 from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and singles at both Etosha NP and at Windhoek Sewage Works.
21. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis) – 20+ from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, 26+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, several between Drotsky’s Cabins and Mohembo border crossing, and 21 at Etosha NP.
22. Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides) – Two at Rundu Sewage Works, two from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, and four from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
23. Rufous-bellied Heron (Ardeola rufiventris) – Two along the Okavango River from Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, and singles from the river cruises at both Shamvura Lodge and Drotsky’s Cabins.
24. Striated Heron (Butorides striatus) – A single along the Okavango River by Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, two from the river cruise from Shamvuru Lodge, a single on the Okavango River by Drotsky’s Cabins, four from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and a single between Ruacana and Kunene River Lodge.
25. Black-crowned Night-heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) – 12 roosting at Rundu Sewage Works, a single from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, another single from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and two at Windhoek Sewage Works.
26. White-backed Night-heron (Gorsachius leuconotus) – This much wanted species was seen well from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, with three adults seen.
27. Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus) – Two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
28. Hamerkop (Scopus umbretta) – Eight from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, two at Mahango Game Reserve, and singles at Africat Foundation, Okonjima and at Windhoek Sewage Works.
29. Yellow-billed Stork (Mycteria ibis) – Ten from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and six at Mahango Game Reserve.
30. African Openbill (Anastomus lamelligerus) – 40+ from the river cruise from Shamvuru Lodge and 34+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
31. Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumeniferus) – Three at Mahango Game Reserve.
32. Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) – 10+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
33. Hadada Ibis (Bostrychia hagedash) – Two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and three over Drotsky’s Cabins.
34. Sacred Ibis (Threskiornis aethiopicus) – Six from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and a single at Hardap Dam.
35. African Spoonbill (Platalea alba) - Four from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, eight from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and four at Mahango Game Reserve.
36. Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) – As many as a thousand at Walvis Bay and although we did not try especially hard we were surprised not to drop onto a Lesser Flamingo.
37. Fulvous Whistling-duck (Dendrocygna bicolor) – Three at Rundu Sewage Works.
38. White-faced Whistling-duck (Dendrocygna viduata) – 80+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and c.50 at Mahango Game Reserve.
39. Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiacus) – Four from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, two at Mahango Game Reserve, c.120 at Etosha NP, a single at Kunene River Lodge, two at Avis Dam, and c.30 at Windhoek Sewage Works.
40. South African Shelduck (Tadorna cana) – Two on a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, and four at Windhoek Sewage Works.
41. Spur-winged Goose (Plectropterus gambensis) – Two from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, 20+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and 20+ at Mahango Game Reserve.
42. Cape Teal (Anas capensis) – 14 from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge was a highly unusual record for Mark Paxton, 20+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, seven at Etosha NP, three at Walvis Bay, two on a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, and six at Windhoek Sewage Works.
43. Red-billed Duck (Anas erythrorhyncha) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, Etosha NP, Africat Foundation, Okonjima, on a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, and at Windhoek Sewage Works.
44. Southern Pochard (Netta erythrophthalma) – Sharing a curious distribution with a limited part of South America, we noted three at Rundu Sewage Works.
45. Black-shouldered Kite (Elanus caeruleus) – Widely encountered.
46. Yellow-billed Kite (Milvus parasitus) – Two between Mohembo border crossing and Drotsky’s Cabins, three from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and a single at Etosha NP.
47. African Fish-eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer) – Six from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, two at Mahango Game Reserve and a single at Avis Dam.
48. African White-backed Vulture (Gyps africanus) – The commonest vulture, two noted at Windhoek Airport, 15 at Mahango Game Reserve, three at both Etosha NP and at Africat Foundation, Okonjima.
49. Lappet-faced Vulture (Torgos tracheliotus) – Three at Mahango Game Reserve were the only ones we encountered.
50. Black-chested Snake-eagle (Circaetus pectoralis) – An adult at Rundu Sewage Works and a juvenile at Mahango Game Reserve.
51. Western Banded Snake-eagle (Circaetus cinerascens) – An adult bird perched and in flight by the almost abandoned Shakawe Lodge, near Drotsky’s Cabins. Shamvura Lodge used to be a regular site for this species but Mark Paxton rarely sees this species now.
52. Bateleur (Terathopius ecaudatus) – A single adult in Etosha NP.
53. African Marsh-harrier (Circus ranivorus) – Three from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
54. Dark Chanting-goshawk (Melierax metabates) – A single in the Shamvuru area was our only sighting.
55. Pale Chanting-goshawk (Melierax canorus) – A common roadside sighting, and particularly common in Etosha NP.
56. Gabar Goshawk (Micronisus gabar) – Singles in the Shamvuru area, Etosha NP, Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge, Hobatere Lodge, and between Kalahari Anib Lodge and Arnhem Cave.
57. Steppe Buzzard (Buteo buteo vulpinus) – Singles near Hardap Dam and at Windhoek Sewage Works.
58. Lesser Spotted Eagle (Aquila pomarina) – A single juvenile at Etosha NP.
59. Tawny Eagle (Aquila rapax) – A single at Mahango Game Reserve, another single between Rundu and Roy’s Camp, four at Etosha NP, and finally a single at Hobatere Lodge.
60. Verreaux's Eagle (Aquila verreauxii) – A single adult at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, and a pair at Brandberg.
61. African Hawk-eagle (Hieraaetus spilogaster) – Great views of a pair over the Wilderness Forest Lodge and a single at Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge.
62. Martial Eagle (Polemaetus bellicosus) – An adult drinking from a pool at Mahango Game Reserve.
63. Secretary-bird (Sagittarius serpentarius) – Four in Etosha NP.
64. Pygmy Falcon (Polihierax semitorquatus) – A pair in Etosha NP, about 8km southwest of Okondeka.
65. Common (Rock) Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – Four at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
66. Greater (White-eyed) Kestrel (Falco rupicoloides) – Two at Etosha NP, a single between Kunene River Lodge and Hobatere, two between Uis and Henities Bay included an adult with an apparently dark eye.
67. Grey Kestrel (Falco ardosiaceus) – One of the surprises of the trip with a single flying south south over the Okavango River near Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu. Having seen both Sooty Falcon and Grey Kestrel on previous trips to the African continent I am happy with this identification. It is worth noting that Sooty Falcon has also been seen in the Rundu area and Mark Gafney recorded one here in December 2007.
68. Red-necked Falcon (Falco chicquera) – Just a single from the river cruise at Shamvura Lodge.
69. Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus) – Singles at Etosha NP, between Uis and Henities Bay and between Sesriem and Hardap Dam.
70. Orange River Francolin (Francolinus levaillantoides) – Four birds gave exceptional views as they sheltered from the fierce midday sun at Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge.
71. Crested Francolin (Francolinus sephaena) – A single at Shamvuru Lodge and two at Brandberg were our only sightings.
72. Hartlaub's Francolin (Francolinus hartlaubi) – 21 or 22 in several parties at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
73. Red-billed Francolin (Francolinus adspersus) – Frequently encountered, especially around lodges and campsites.
74. Red-necked Spurfowl (Francolinus afer) – Up to ten birds around Kunene River Lodge. Some work still needs to be undertaken to assign correctly the subspecies status to these birds.
75. Swainson's Spurfowl (Francolinus swainsonii) – A single at Mahango Game Reserve was our only sighting.
76. Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris) – Widely recorded, and common at some sites such as Etosha NP.
77. Black Crake (Amaurornis flavirostra) – Singles at Shamvuru Camp and also from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, three from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and a single at Kunene River Lodge.
78. African Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio madagascariensis) – Two at Rundu Sewage Works and four from the river cruise from Shamvuru Lodge.
79. Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, Etosha NP and at Windhoek Sewage Works.
80. Lesser Moorhen (Gallinula angulata) – It was great to catch up with this bird at long last with a single from the river cruise near Drotsky’s Cabins.
81. Crested (Red-knobbed) Coot (Fulica cristata) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, Etosha NP, the small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, and at Windhoek Sewage Works.
82. Wattled Crane (Grus carunculatus) – two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and three or four at Mahango Game Reserve.
83. Ludwig's Bustard (Neotis ludwigii) – Four at Sossusvlei.
84. Kori Bustard (Ardeotis kori) – Good numbers in Etosha NP.
85. Red-crested Bustard (Eupodotis ruficrista) – A single at Etosha NP, two at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, a single heard at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, and a single at Arnhem Cave.
86. Northern Black (White-quilled) Korhaan (Bustard) (Eupodotis afraoides) – 19 at Etosha NP, a single between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, two over the Kalahari Anib Lodge, and three between Kalahari Anib Lodge and Arnhem Cave.
87. Rüppell's Bustard (Eupodotis rueppellii) – Five on the C35 close to the Brandberg junction, seven at Brandberg, eight between Uis and Henities Bay, five between Walvis Bay and Kuiseb Pass, and three at Sossusvlei.
88. African Jacana (Actophilornis africanus) – Two at Rundu Sewage Works, one from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, eight from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, six at Mahango Game Reserve and a single at Windhoek Sewage Works.
89. Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus) – A single at Rundu Sewage Works, two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, 50+ at Walvis Bay, a single on a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, and a single at Avis Dam.
90. Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta) – 30+ at Walvis Bay and six on a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam
91. Water Thick-knee (Burhinus vermiculatus) – Three from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
92. Double-banded Courser (Rhinoptilus africanus) – A cracker of a bird with eight at Etosha NP most between Okaukuejo and Okondeka, and a single at Sossusvlei.
93. Burchell's Courser (Cursorius rufus) – One of the birds of the trip and 2009 will surely go down as one of the best years in which to see them. We saw 13 at Etosha NP (Salvadora, Gemsbokvlakte, and between Okaukuejo and Okondeka), a single between Uis and Henities Bay about 35 kms from Uis, and a single at Sossusvlei.
94. Collared Pratincole (Glareola pratincola) – Four from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, 20+ from river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and 15+ at Mahango Game Reserve.
95. Rock Pratincole (Glareola nuchalis) – Two from the river cruise at Shamvura Lodge.
96. Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola) – c.11 at Walvis Bay.
97. Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula) – A single at Walvis Bay,
98. Kittlitz's Plover (Charadrius pecuarius) – This exquisite bird was noted at Rundu Sewage Works (two), Etosha NP (two) and Walvis Bay (six).
99. Three-banded Plover (Charadrius tricollaris) – Widespread, and noted on most patches of standing water.
100. Chestnut-banded Plover (Charadrius pallidus) – A single in Etosha NP and six at Walvis Bay.
101. Long-toed Lapwing (Vanellus crassirostris) – 15+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and six at Mahango Game Reserve.
102. Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armatus) – Widespread in small numbers, commonest in the Okavango Panhandle area.
103. Wattled Lapwing (Vanellus senegallus) – 10+ from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins. Probably under-recorded.
104. Crowned Lapwing (Vanellus coronatus) – Five at Etosha NP and two at Brandberg’s White Lady Lodge.
105. Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica) – Two at Walvis Bay.
106. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) –- Four at Walvis Bay.
107. [Curlew (Numenius arquata) – A single heard from the Long Beach Leisure Park campsite north of Walvis Bay].
108. Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis) – A single at Rundu Sewage Works.
109. Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) – A single at Rundu Sewage Works, two from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, eight from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, a single heard at Mahango Game Reserve, and singles at both Etosha NP and at at Walvis Bay.
110. Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) – Seen on many waterholes usually in small numbers. Our best counts were 25 at Rundu Sewage Works and 38 throughout Etosha NP.
111. Common Sandpiper (Tringa hypoleucos) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and at Etosha NP.
112. Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) – c.26 at Walvis Bay.
113. Sanderling (Calidris alba) – Common at Walvis Bay.
114. Little Stint (Calidris minuta) – Double figures at Rundu Sewage Works, a single at Etosha NP and 30+ at Walvis Bay.
115. Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea) – Two at Rundu Sewage Works and common at Walvis Bay.
116. Ruff (Philomachus pugnax) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and at Walvis Bay.
117. Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus) – c.11 at Walvis Bay.
118. Grey-headed Gull (Larus cirrocephalus) – Four at Etosha NP.
119. Hartlaub’s Gull (Larus hartlaubii) – Common at Walvis Bay.
120. Great Crested-tern [Swift Tern] (Sterna bergii) – A single at Walvis Bay.
121. Sandwich Tern (Sterna sandvicensis) – Six at Walvis Bay.
122. Common Tern (Sterna hirundo) – Ten at Walvis Bay.
123. Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybridus) – Three at Etosha NP.
124. White-winged Tern (Chlidonias leucopterus) – 15 at Etosha NP.
125. African Skimmer (Rynchops flavirostris) – One of the birds of the trip with good numbers from both the river cruises at Shamvura Lodge and Drotsky’s Cabins.
126. Namaqua Sandgrouse (Pterocles namaqua) – 18 noted along the tracks at Etosha NP, and then many hundreds coming into drink at the Okondeka waterhole. Five between Etosha NP and Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge, three between Omaruru and Uis, a single at Hardap Dam, and hundreds coming to the Kalahari Anib Lodge waterhole.
127. Double-banded Sandgrouse (Pterocles bicinctus) – Common at dusk at Halali and Okaukuejo waterholes, Etosha NP. Good numbers also coming to drink at Hobatere Lodge.
128. Burchell's Sandgrouse (Pterocles burchelli) – Three over the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and a dozen or so flew into the waterhole mid-morning at the Kalahari Anib Lodge
129. Speckled Pigeon (Columba guinea) – a single at Hobatere Lodge, five at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, and singles at both Arnhem Cave and at Avis Dam.
130. Feral Pigeon [Rock Dove] (Columba livia) – Noted in small numbers in a few towns.
131. Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis) – Common.
132. Cape Turtle-dove [Ring-necked Dove] (Streptopelia capicola) – Widespread in small numbers.
133. Red-eyed Dove (Streptopelia semitorquata) – Doubtless overlooked. We had two obvious singles: a bird along the Okavango River near Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, and another in the Shamvuru area.
134. Emerald-spotted Wood-dove (Turtur chalcospilos) – Noted at Roy’s Camp, in the Shamvuru area, the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins, and at Etosha NP.
135. Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis) – Common.
136. African Green-pigeon (Treron calva) – Four from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
137. Grey-headed Parrot (Poicephalus fusciollis) – A single over the entrance to Shamvuru Lodge early morning, a regular occurrence at the moment.
138. Meyer's Parrot (Poicephalus meyeri) – 20+ in the Shamvuru area,
139. Rüppell's Parrot (Poicephalus rueppellii) – Three near Wilderness Forest Lodge, Waterberg, ten at Hobatere Lodge and singles between Ruacana and Kunene River Lodge.
140. Rosy-faced Lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis) – Easily seen at Wilderness Forest Lodge, Warterberg, Roy’s Camp, Erongo Wilderness Lodge and Hobatere Lodge.
141. Grey Go-away-bird (Corythaixoides concolor) – Common.
142. Jacobin (Pied) Cuckoo (Oxylophus jacobinus) – Heard at Shamvura Lodge, in the Shamvuru area and at Elisenheim Guest Farm, with a single seen at Avis Dam, Windhoek.
143. African Cuckoo (Cuculus gularis) – A single at Hobatere Lodge.
144. [Red-chested Cuckoo (Cuculus solitaruis) – A single heard in the Shamvuru area].
145. Didric Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius) – Three very vocal birds at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
146. Coppery-tailed Coucal (Centropus cupreicaudus) – A single along the river from Sarasunga Lodge at Rundu, two from the river cruise at Shamvura and a single in the Shamvuru area.
147. Senegal Coucal (Centropus senegalensis) – Several along the Okavango River by Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, and a single heard in the Shamvuru area.
148. White-browed Coucal (Centropus superciliosus) – Single at both Shamvuru Lodge and at Mahango Game Reserve.
149. Barn Owl (Tyto alba) – Singles at Etosha NP, during a night drive at Hobatere Lodge and finally another single roosting at Arnhem Cave.
150. African Scops-owl (Otus senegalensis) – A single bird roosting at Halali Camp, Etosha NP. Other birds heard at Evergreen Campsite near Erongo Wilderness Lodge and at Elisenheim Guest Farm.
151. Southern White-faced Scops-owl (Otus granti) – A pair with two young at Halali Camp, Etosha NP, and a single bird hunting around the floodlit waterhole there towards midnight.
152. Verreaux's Eagle-owl (Bubo lacteus) – A single bird roosting by Hobatere Lodge.
153. Pel's Fishing-owl (Scotopelia peli) – A single adult from the river cruise near Drotsky’s Cabins.
154. Pearl-spotted Owlet (Glaucidium perlatum) – Apart from the northeast, either seen or heard at most sites visited.
155. African Barred Owlet (Glaucidium capense) – A single in the grounds of Shamvura Lodge.
156. Rufous-cheeked Nightjar (Caprimulgus rufigena) – Two flying around both Halali and Okaukuejo waterholes, Etosha NP.
157. Fiery-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus pectoralis) – Seen in the grounds of Shamvura Lodge.
158. Freckled Nightjar (Caprimulgus tristigma) – Great views of a pair at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Also heard at Wilderness Forest Lodge and from the campsite at Elisenheim Guest Farm.
159. Square-tailed (Mozambique) Nightjar (Caprimulgus fossii) – Good views of a calling male in the grounds of Shamvura Lodge. Also heard from Sarasunga Lodge.
160. African Palm-swift (Cypsiurus parvus) – Widespread, usually in small numbers.
161. Alpine Swift (Tachymarptis melba) – Ten between Omaruru and Uis.
162. Little Swift (Apus affinis) – Commonly encountered.
163. White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer) – Three between Africat Foundation, Okonjima and Erongo, two between Sesriem and Hardap Dam and four at Arnhem Cave.
164. White-backed Mousebird (Colius colius) – Six at Brandberg, three at the Kalahari Anib Lodge and a single at Windhoek Sewage Works.
165. Red-faced Mousebird (Urocolius indicus) – A single in the Shamvuru area, eight from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, two at Mahango Game Reserve and a single near Kunene River Lodge.
166. Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Halcyon albiventris) – A single at Rundu Sewage Works (DH).
167. Giant Kingfisher (Megaceryle maxima) – This impressive species was noted several times along the Okavango River from the Drotsky’s Cabins river cruise. A total of six birds probably involved.
168. Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge and the species was particularly common around Drotsky’s Cabins.
169. Malachite Kingfisher (Alcedo cristata) – A single from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, and up to 19 on the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
170. White-fronted Bee-eater (Merops bullockoides) – A single from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, and a total of 20+ in the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins and on the river cruise.
171. Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus) – Eight at Rundu Sewage Works, a single in the Shamvuru area, a single from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and ten at Mahango Game Reserve.
172. Swallow-tailed Bee-eater (Merops hirundineus) – The most widely recorded bee-eater, noted at many sites visited.
173. Olive (Madagascar) Bee-eater (Merops superciliosus alterans) – A few breeding pairs at Hobatere Lodge, a few from the road between Hobatere and Ruacana, and common between Ruacana and Kunene River Lodge.
174. European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster) - 12 at Etosha NP, c.20 near Hardap Dam and two at Hardap Dam.
175. Southern Carmine Bee-eater (Merops nubicoides) – A fantastic experience from the river cruises at both Shamvura Lodge and Drotsky’s Cabins. We also noted a few in Mahango Game Reserve and a single between Drotsky’s Cabins and Mohembo border crossing.
176. Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracias caudata) – Two at Rundu Sewage Works, three at Mahango Game Reserve, two between Rundu and Roy’s Camp, five at Etosha NP, two between Kalahari Anib Lodge and Arnhem Cave, and a single at Arnhem Cave.
177. Racket [Racquet] -tailed Roller (Coracias spatulatus) – A single bird with Mark Paxton in the Shamvura area.
178. Broad-billed Roller (Eurystomus glaucurus) – A single at Drotsky’s Cabins.
179. Purple Roller (Coracias naevius) – Widespread in small numbers.
180. African Hoopoe (Upupa africana) – Always in small numbers. We noted birds at Rundu Sewage Works, Sarasunga River Lodge, Shamvuru area, Mahango Game Reserve, Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge, Hobatere Lodge, between Ruacana and Kunene River Lodge, Kunene River Lodge and Hobatere, and at the Africat Foundation, Okonjima.
181. Violet Woodhoopoe (Phoeniculus damarensis) – After missing this species in Etosha NP, it was relief to catch up with this species easily at Hobatere Lodge when seven were seen. A woodhoopoe sp was also heard in the Shamvura area where Mark Paxton, contrary to all the field guides, believes both Violet and Green Woodhoopoe occurs.
182. Common Scimitar-bill (Rhinopomastus cyanomelas) - Singles at Mahango Game Reserve, near Kunene River Lodge, Hardap Dam, and at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
183. Monteiro's Hornbill (Tockus monteiri) – We only recorded the obvious hornbills from the car and once we had seen our target species we rarely stopped so the ‘hornbill list’ will be under-recorded. We noted this species between Windhoek and Waterberg, at Roy’s Camp, Sachsenheim Guest Farm, Kunene River Lodge, between Kunene River Lodge and Hobatere, Erongo Wilderness Lodge and at Avis Dam.
184. Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill (Tockus leucomelas) – Widespread and regularly recorded.
185. Red-billed Hornbill (Tockus erythrorhynchus) – Just a single at Etosha NP. We have surely just overlooked this species.
186. Damara Hornbill (Tockus damarensis) – Identified only at Wilderness Forest Lodge, Waterberg (single), Etosha NP (single) and Hobatere Lodge (easy) – probably overlooked though we did read one report which had dipped this species completely!
187. Bradfield's Hornbill (Tockus bradfieldi) – A single in the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins, two in Mahango Game Reserve and two near Shamvuru.
188. African Grey Hornbill (Tockus nasutus) – Widespread in small numbers.
189. [Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird (Pogoniulus chrysoconus) – Heard with Mark Paxton in the Shamvura area].
190. Acacia Pied Barbet (Tricholaema leucomelas) – Widespread in small numbers.
191. Black-collared Barbet (Lybius torquatus) – Two in the Shamvuru area were the only ones we recorded.
192. Crested Barbet (Trachyphonus vaillantii) – Two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
193. Brown-backed (Wahlberg's / Sharp-billed) Honeyguide (Prodotiscus regulus) – A single with Mark Praxton in the Shamvura area. The white throat on this bird is a distinctive feature which can be seen at some distance.
194. Golden-tailed Woodpecker (Campethera abingoni) – Singles at Wilderness Forest Lodge and at Hobatere Lodge, and two at Africat Foundation, Okonjima.
195. Eastern Clapper Lark (Mirafra fasciolata) – A pair at Okondeka, Etosha NP.
196. Fawn-coloured Lark (Mirafra africanoides) – A single at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, two at Hardap Dam, and singles at Kalahari Anib Lodge, between Kalahari Anib Lodge and Arnhem Cave, and also near Arnhem Cave.
197. Sabota (Bradfield’s) Lark (Mirafra sabota) – The common mirafra encountered just about anywhere, and in a variety of habitats, including one or two singing from bushes on the gravel plains. All the birds were of the larger billed Bradfield’s form.
198. Benguela Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda benguelensis) – Easy to find along the road to Branberg, and on the C35 just south of the Brandberg junction. We saw somewhere between eight and ten birds in total.
199. Dune Lark (Certhilauda erythrochlamys) – A pair at Rooibank, about 30km southeast of Walvis Bay was one of the birds of the trip.
200. Spike-heeled Lark (Chersomanes albofasciata) – Five at Etosha NP and a single between Walvis Bay and Kuiseb Pass.
201. Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark (Eremopterix leucotis) – Six at Etosha NP.
202. Grey-backed Sparrowlark (Eremopterix verticalis) – c.25 at Etosha NP, eight at Brandberg, c.30 between Uis and Henities Bay, two between Walvis Bay and Kuiseb Pass and two also at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
203. Gray's Lark (Ammomanes grayi) – Three between Uis and Henities Bay about 35 kms from Uis, and two between Walvis Bay and Kuiseb Pass (about 100km east of Walvis Bay).
204. Red-capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea) – 22 at Etosha NP, and seven by a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam.
205. Pink-billed Lark (Spizocorys conirostris) – Only noted at Etosha NP with three between Okaukuejo and Okondeka.
206. Stark's Lark (Eremalauda starki) – A small flock of seven or eight larks in flight at Brandberg was almost certainly this species on call. Fortunately, we were able to get much better views from the C35 southwest of Uis, and along the C14 between Walvis Bay and Kuiseb Pass.
207. Plain Martin (Riparia paludicola) – Two from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, two over Drotsky’s Cabins, and six from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
208. Banded Martin (Riparia cincta) – Eight from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and two at Mahango Game Reserve.
209. Rock Martin (Hirundo fuligula) – Widespread in small numbers.
210. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) - Two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
211. White-throated Swallow (Hirundo albigularis) – Two at Windhoek Sewage Works.
212. Wire-tailed Swallow (Hirundo smithii) – Six along the Okavango River by Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, four at Vungu Vungu Dairy, Rundu, two from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, two over Drotsky’s Cabins, and eight from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
213. Pearl-breasted Swallow (Hirundo dimidiata) – Singles at Arnhem Cave and at Elisenheim Guest Farm.
214. Greater Striped-swallow (Hirundo cucullata) – A single at Windhoek Airport, two at Mohembo border crossing, two at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, two at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, and a single at Avis Dam.
215. Lesser Striped-swallow (Hirundo abyssinica) – A single over Drotsky’s Cabins, and five from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
216. Rufous-chested (Red-breasted) Swallow (Hirundo semirufa) – Five in the Shamvuru area, a single at Sachsenheim Guest Farm and three at Etosha NP.
217. Mosque Swallow (Hirundo senegalensis) – Two at both Mohembo border crossing and at Mahango Game Reserve.
218. South African Swallow (Hirundo spilodera) – Eight over a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam.
219. House Martin (Delichon urbica) – 10+ in the Shamvuru area.
220. African Pipit (Anthus cinnamomeus) – Single from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, Mahango Game Reserve and at Windhoek Sewage Works. 16 at Etosha NP.
221. African Pied Wagtail (Motacilla aguimp) – A single from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, six from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and a single at Kunene River Lodge.
222. Cape Wagtail (Motacilla capensis) – Four from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, two at Henities Bay, four at Walvis Bay, three at Avis Dam, and two at Elisenheim Guest Farm.
223. Dark-capped (Black-eyed) Bulbul (Pycnonotus tricolor) – Singles from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, at Shamvuru Lodge and at Drotsky’s Cabins, and three the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
224. Red-eyed (Black-fronted) Bulbul (Pycnonotus nigricans) – The commonest bulbul and recorded almost daily.
225. Yellow-bellied Greenbul (Chlorocichla flaviventris) – Two along the Okavango River by Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, a single in the Shamvuru area, a single in the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins, and two at Kunene River Lodge.
226. White-browed (Red-backed) Scrub-robin (Cercotrichas leucophrys) – Probably overlooked as our only sighting was a single at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
227. Kalahari Scrub-robin (Cercotrichas paena) – Rather more common than expected and encountered in most drier habitats.
228. Herero Chat (Namibornis herero) – Four to the east of the C35, about 2kms south of the Bradberg junction.
229. White-browed Robin-chat (Cossypha heuglini) – Two at Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, and three at Shamvuru Lodge.
230. Rufous-tailed Palm-thrush (Cichladusa ruficauda) – Easily found in and around Kunene River Lodge.
231. Tractrac Chat (Cercomela tractrac) – A single ‘brown’ form at Brandberg. Probably overlooked though unexpectedly scarce.
232. Karoo Chat (Cercomela schlegelii) – Two between Omaruru and Uis, four between Uis and Brandberg including a single of the pale form, six at Brandberg, and a single between Walvis Bay and Kuiseb Pass.
233. Familiar Chat (Cercomela familiaris) – Widespread in small numbers.
234. Common Stonechat (Saxicola torquata) – Singles from the river cruises at both Shamvuru Lodge and at Drotsky’s Cabins.
235. Southern Anteater-chat (Myrmecocichla formicivora) – Three at Etosha NP and two between Kalahari Anib Lodge and Arnhem Cave.
236. Mountain Wheatear [Chat] (Oenanthe monticola) – A pair at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, six at Brandberg, a single between Uis and Henities Bay, two between Walvis Bay and Kuiseb Pass, and singles between Solitaire and Weltevrede Guest Farm and at Hardap Dam, and finally two at Avis Dam.
237. Capped Wheatear (Oenanthe pileata) – Three at Etosha NP.
238. Short-toed Rock-thrush (Monticola brevipes) – A single at Hobatere Lodge and also between Kunene River Lodge and Hobatere, two at Erongo Wilderness Lodge and a single at Hardap Dam.
239. Groundscraper Thrush (Psophocichla litsipsirupa) – Two at Wilderness Forest Lodge, a single 20km south of Rundu, six at Hobatere Lodge and two at Africat Foundation, Okonjima.
240. Kurrichane Thrush (Turdus libonyanus) – A single in Rundu was our only sighting.
241. Rockrunner [Damara Rock-jumper] (Achaetops pycnopygius) – Common and easy to see at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. One of the birds of the trip.
242. Rattling Cisticola (Cisticola chinianus) – The commonest cisticola and worth quickly becoming familiar with its various vocalisations. We saw four at Rundu Sewage Works, and singles at Mohango Game Reserve, Drotsky’s Cabins, 20km south of Rundu, Africat Foundation, Okonjima and at Windhoek Sewage Works. Two also at Etosha NP.
243. Tinkling (Grey) Cisticola (Cisticola rufilatus) – A pair and a second male found easily in the woodland 20km southwest of Rundu, to the east of the B8.
244. Chirping Cisticola (Cisticola pipiens) – A single from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge, a pair from the restaurant at Drotsky’s Cabins and two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
245. Luapula Cisticola (Cisticola luapula) – A single with Mark Paxton during the river cruise at Shamvura Lodge.
246. Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis) – A single close to Waterberg, two at Vungu Vungu Dairy, Rundu, two from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, and a single between Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge and Hobatere Lodge.
247. Desert Cisticola (Cisticola aridulus) – Easily identified at Etosha NP and double-figures here. The only other sighting was of a single between Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge and Hobatere Lodge.
248. Neddicky (Cisticola fulvicapila) – Two along the Okavango River by Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, a single in the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins, and another single in the woodland 20km south of Rundu.
249. Tawny-flanked Prinia (Prinia subflava) – Two at Shamruru Camp, singles from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge and also in the Shamvuru area, four 20km south of Rundu, and a single at Hobatere Lodge.
250. Black-chested Prinia (Prinia flavicans) – Five at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, seven at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, two at Brandberg, two at Sossusvlei, two by a small reservoir at the junction of the C19 and C14 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, a single at Hardap Dam, four at the Kalahari Anib Lodge, two at Arnhem Cave and two also at Avis Dam. Widespread and generally quite conspicuous.
251. Grey-backed Camaroptera (Camaroptera brevicaudata) – Widespread in small numbers.
252. Barred Wren-warbler (Calamonastes fasciolatus) – Singles at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, Erongo Wilderness Lodge and at Elisenheim Guest Farm. This species sounds a little like Brubru.
253. [African Reed-warbler (Acrocephalus baeticatus) – Heard at Windhoek Sewage Works].
254. Lesser Swamp-warbler (Acrocephalus gracilirostris) – Three at Rundu Sewage Works and a single warbler seen briefly in habitat alongside a stream at Brandberg appeared to be this species.
255. Icterine Warbler (Hippolais icterina) – A single with Mark Paxton in the Shamvura area.
256. Rufous-vented Warbler (Sylvia subcaeruleum) – Three along the road between Windhoek and Waterberg, and singles at Mahango Game Reserve, Sossusvlei and also at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
257. Yellow-bellied Eremomela (Eremomela icteropygialis) – A single at Etosha NP, two near Kunene River Lodge, a single at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, a single at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, two at Weltevrede Guest Farm, and a single at Windhoek Sewage Works.
258. Greencap Eremomela (Eremomela scotops) – A single in the Shamvuru area only.
259. Burnt-neck Eremomela (Eremomela usticollis) – Only noted at Wilderness Forest Lodge where two were seen.
260. Yellow-breasted Apalis (Apalis flavida) – A single along the road between Windhoek and Waterberg.
261. Long-billed (Cape) Crombec (Sylvietta rufescens) – Two at Etosha NP, two near Kunene River Lodge and a single at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
262. Pale Flycatcher (Bradornis pallidus) – Three in the woodland 20km south of Rundu.
263. Chat Flycatcher (Bradornis infuscatus) – Eight at Etosha NP. Singles between Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge and Hobatere Lodge, at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, Erongo Wilderness Lodge, between Omaruru and Uis, Sossusvlei, Hardap Dam and between Kalahari Anib Lodge and Arnhem Cave. Two also at the Kalahari Anib Lodge.
264. Mariqua Flycatcher (Bradornis mariquensis) – A pair nest building near Rundu Sewage Works and a single at Africat Foundation, Okonjima.
265. Southern Black-flycatcher (Melaenornis pammelaina) – Two in the Shamvuru area.
266. [Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) – A single heard at Kunene River Lodge].
267. African Paradise-flycatcher (Terpsiphone viridis) – Single along the Okavango River by Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, in the Shamvuru area, and from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
268. Black-faced Babbler (Turdoides melanops) – After dipping this species twice at Roy’s Camp, we were grateful to finally catch up with this species along the Dikdik Drive at Namutoni, Etosha NP.
269. Hartlaub's (Southern White-rumped) Babbler (Turdoides hartlaubii) – First identified at Rundu Sewage Works and frequently encountered further east.
270. Southern Pied-babbler (Turdoides bicolor) – Four or five flew across the road between Tandala Ridge Wildlife Lodge and Hobatere Lodge, and ten (or eleven) also flew across the D2483 in two groups between the Africat Foundation, Okonjima and Erongo.
271. Arrow-marked Babbler (Turdoides jardineii) – Only identified near Shamvura with five seen in two groups.
272. Bare-cheeked Babbler (Turdoides gymnogenys) – 11 at Hobatere Lodge and 18 in and around Kunene River Lodge.
273. Southern Black Tit (Parus niger) – Noted only in the northwest with four in the Shamvuru area and a single at Mahango Game Reserve.
274. Ashy Tit (Parus cinerascens) – Having inexplicitly missed this species on two previous trips to South Africa, it was a relief to find this seeing two at both Erongo Wilderness Lodge and at Weltevrede Guest Farm.
275. Carp's Tit (Parus carpi) – Three at Wilderness Forest Lodge, four at Etosha NP and 18 at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
276. Amethyst Sunbird (Nectarinia amethystina) – Singles 20km south of Rundu and at Africat Foundation, Okonjima.
277. Scarlet-chested Sunbird (Nectarinia senegalensis) – Singles at both Rundu Sewage Works and in the Shamvuru area.
278. Collared Sunbird (Hedydipna collaris) – Two at Drotsky’s Cabins.
279. White-breasted (-bellied) Sunbird (Nectarinia talatala) – Singles at both Shamvuru Lodge and at Etosha NP, two at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, two at Erongo Wilderness Lodge and a single at the Kalahari Anib Lodge.
280. Dusky Sunbird (Nectarinia fusca) – We only noted this species at Erongo Wilderness Lodge and at Brandberg with three seen at each locality, but probably overlooked elsewhere.
281. Mariqua Sunbird (Nectarinia mariquensis) – The commonest sunbird widely encountered away from the northeast in small numbers.
282. African Yellow White-eye (Zosterops senegalensis) – A single in the Shamvuru area and two 20km south of Rundu.
283. White-tailed Shrike (Lanioturdus torquatus) – Bird of the trip and commoner than expected. We recorded this species at Hobatere Lodge (nine), in and around Kunene River Lodge (ten), between Kunene River Lodge and Hobatere (three) and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge (five).
284. Brubru (Nilaus afer) – The classic acacia specialist noted at Roy’s Camp, Sachsenheim Guest Farm, Etosha NP and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
285. Black-backed Puffback (Dryoscopus cubla) – Three in the Shamvuru area, a single at Mahango Game Reserve, a single at Sachsenheim Guest Farm, two at Etosha NP and two at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
286. Brown-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra australis) – Three at Shamvuru Lodge, two at Mahango Game Reserve, two 20km south of Rundu, a single at Etosha NP, four at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, two at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, and singles between Omaruru and Uis, between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, and also between Kalahari Anib Lodge and Arnhem Cave.
287. Swamp Boubou (Laniarius bicolor) – First noted at Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, and frequently heard or seen east from there. Also seen easily at Kunene River Lodge.
288. Crimson-breasted Gonolek (Laniarius atrococcineus) – Widespread in small numbers in acacia.
289. Bokmakierie (Telophorus zeylonus) – This distinctive species was noted only at Brandberg with just the one seen.
290. Orange (Sulphur) -breasted Bushshrike (Telophorus sulfureopectus) – Great views of a single at Drotsky’s Cabins.
291. White (-crested) Helmetshrike (Prionops plumatus) – Widespread in small numbers.
292. Chinspot Batis (Batis molitor) – A pair in the Shamvuru area and a single 20km south of Rundu.
293. Pririt Batis (Batis pririt) – A pair near Kunene River Lodge, four at Erongo Wilderness Lodge and two at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
294. Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio) – Three along the road between Windhoek and Waterberg.
295. Souza's Shrike (Lanius souzae) – Following a failure to see this species in Malawi a few years ago, it was a fantastic to see a confiding pair with Mark Paxton who has located about seven pairs in the Shamvura area so far this year.
296. Common Fiscal (Lanius collaris) – Fairly common. The birds in Etosha NP had a white supercilium and are sometimes known as Latakoo Fiscal.
297. Magpie Shrike (Corvinella melanoleuca) – A single at Rundu Sewage Works, two in the Shamvuru area, and six between Mohembo Border Post and Drotsky’s Cabins.
298. Southern White-crowned Shrike (Eurocephalus anguitimens) – Much scarcer than we had expected with four at Etosha NP, a single at Hobatere Lodge and five between Hobatere Lodge and Okonjima.
299. Fork-tailed Drongo (Dicrurus adsimilis) – Common in small numbers.
300. Cape Crow [Rook] (Corvus capensis) – 11 at Etosha NP and two at Sossusvlei.
301. Pied Crow (Corvus albus) – A single in the Shamvuru area, three from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, several between Drotsky’s Cabins and Mohembo border crossing, three 20km south of Rundu, two between Rundu and Roy’s Camp, 11 at Etosha NP and eight at Sossusvlei.
302. Pale-winged Starling (Onychognathus nabouroup) – c. 20 at Wilderness Forest Lodge, four at Roy’s Camp, two at Hobatere Campsite, five at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, two between Omaruru and Uis, 80+ at Brandberg and c.20 between Sesriem and Hardap Dam
303. Cape Glossy-starling (Lamprotornis nitens) – We did not particularly look for this species given previous trips to South Africa, and unsurprisingly only recorded it when a breeding pair was pointed out by Mark Paxton near Shamvuru Lodge.
304. Greater Blue-eared Glossy-starling (Lamprotornis chalybaeus) – Common and widespread at many of the lodges.
305. Burchell's Glossy-starling (Lamprotornis australis) – Noted atWindhoek Airport, in the Shamvuru area, Mahango Game Reserve and at Four at Etosha NP.
306. Meves' (long-tailed) Glossy-starling (Lamprotornis mevesii) – Two in the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins, three at Mahango Game Reserve, 25+ at Hobatere Lodge four at Kunene River Lodge, and four between Kunene River Lodge and Hobatere.
307. Violet-backed [Plum-coloured] Starling (Cinnyricinclus leucogaster) – Two at Shamvuru Lodge and a further two 20km south of Rundu.
308. Wattled Starling (Creatophora cinerea) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, Sarasunga River Lodge, Rundu, Shamvuru Lodge, from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins, Etosha NP and finally at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
309. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) – Noted at Walvis Bay, Solitaire, Weltevrede Guest Farm, Sesirem and at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
310. Great Sparrow (Passer motitensis) – Never a species to be seen in large numbers, we found three at Etosha NP, two at Africat Foundation, Okonjima and two at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
311. Cape Sparrow (Passer melanurus) – Noted between Uis and Brandberg, Brandberg, Solitaire and Sesirem, between Sesriem and Hardap Dam, and at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
312. Southern Grey-headed Sparrow (Passer diffusus) – Noted at Wilderness Forest Lodge, Roy’s Camp, Mahango Game Reserve, 20km south of Rundu, Etosha NP, in and around Kunene River Lodge, Africat Foundation, Okonjima and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
313. Red-billed Buffalo-weaver (Bubalornis niger) – Two at Etosha NP and a single at Hobatere Lodge.
314. Scaly Weaver [Scaly-feathered Finch] (Sporopipes squamifrons) – Fairly common at Etosha NP and common at Africat Foundation, Okonjima.
315. White-browed Sparrow-weaver (Plocepasser mahali) – One of the commonest birds of the trip.
316. Social Weaver (Philetairus socius) – Common in Etosha NP, with the distinctive nests seen from roads in the north and west.
317. Spectacled Weaver (Ploceus ocularis) – Singles at Drotsky’s Cabins and also at Kunene River Lodge.
318. (Holub's) Golden-weaver (Ploceus xanthops) – A single from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins.
319. Southern Brown-throated Weaver (Ploceus xanthopterus) – A few around Drotsky’s Cabins.
320. Southern Masked-weaver (Ploceus velatus) – A single at Drotsky’s Cabins, three at Etosha NP, three at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, three at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, a single at Sesirem, a single at Avis Dam and a single at Windhoek. Doubtless overlooked as we only looked at the ones in breeding plumage.
321. Village Weaver (Ploceus cucullatus) – Not specifically looked for, and the only ones we saw were obvious singles from the river cruise at Shamvuru Lodge and at Africat Foundation, Okonjima.
322. Chestnut Weaver (Ploceus rubiginosus) – Only noted near Kunene River Lodge where three birds in non-breeding plumage were identified.
323. Red-headed Weaver (Anaplectes rubriceps) – A single male in full breeding regalia at Shamvura Lodge.
324. Red-billed Quelea (Quelea quelea) – Common at some sites such as Etosha NP, but also very widely recorded in smaller numbers.
325. (Southern) Red Bishop (Euplectes orix) – Three males entering breeding plumage coming to drink at our car hire company’s offices in Windhoek.
326. Fan-tailed Widowbird (Euplectes axillaris) – Noted at Rundu Sewage Works, and from both river cruises at Shamvuru Lodge and Drotsky’s Cabins.
327. Grosbeak (Thick-billed) Weaver (Amblyospiza albifrons) – A single at Drotsky’s Cabins.
328. Green-winged Pytilia [Melba Finch] (Pytilia melba) – Noted in small numbers at Wilderness Forest Lodge, Shamvuru Lodge, Drotsky’s Cabins, Africat Foundation, Okonjima, and finally at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
329. Red-billed Firefinch (Lagonosticta senegala) – Eight at Rundu Sewage Works, six near Shakawe Lodge and six also at Windhoek.
330. Blue-breasted Cordonbleu [Blue Waxbill] (Uraeginthus angolensis) – Widespread in small numbers.
331. Violet-eared Waxbill (Common Grenadier) (Uraeginthus granatina) – Two at Wilderness Forest Lodge, four 20km south of Rundu, five at Etosha NP, five also at Africat Foundation, Okonjima, and finally seven at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
332. Cinderella Waxbill (Estrilda thomensis) – Ten with Peter Morgan near Kunene River Lodge.
333. Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild) – Only noted at Rundu Sewage Works, from the river cruise at Drotsky’s Cabins and at Brandberg.
334. Black-cheeked (-faced) Waxbill (Estrilda erythronotos) – A single in the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins, two at Roy’s Camp and three at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
335. Brown Firefinch (Lagonosticta nitidula) – Four in the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins.
336. Red-headed Finch (Amadina erythrocephala) – Five at Etosha NP, six at Kalahari Anib Lodge, two at Avis Dam and six at Windhoek.
337. Shaft-tailed Whydah (Vidua regia) – A grotty specimen eventually identified amongst the many queleas at Halali Waterhole, Etosha NP. More easily found at Africat Foundation, Okonjima with two or three early transitional males found amongst the many seedeaters.
338. Black-throated (Southern Yellow-rumped) Seedeater (Serinus atrogularis) – All the canaries will have been under-recorded, partly as only a few were in full breeding plumage and, therefore, worth looking at. We noted this species first in the Shamvuru area with two seen, two 20km south of Rundu, 45+ at Etosha NP and 16+ at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
339. Yellow Canary (Serinus flaviventris) – A single at Windhoek Airport, two at Etosha NP and finally a single at Kalahari Anib Lodge.
340. White-throated Canary (Serinus albogularis) – Two at both Erongo Wilderness Lodge and at Brandberg.
341. Lark-like Bunting (Emberiza impetuani) – Ten between Uis and Brandberg.
342. Cinnamon-breasted Bunting (Emberiza tahapisi) – Two at Etosha NP.
343. Cape Bunting (Emberiza capensis) - Two at Erongo Wilderness Lodge and four at Brandberg.
344. Golden-breasted Bunting (Emberiza flaviventris) – Noted along the road between Windhoek and Waterberg, Wilderness Forest Lodge, 20km south of Rundu, at Etosha NP andf also at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
Additional species:
Grey-rumped Swallow (Hirundo griseopyga) – Mark Paxton called out this species along the river cruise but I could not get on to any features as it flashed past.
Oxpecker sp (Buphagus sp) – Mark Paxton pointed out some distant flying birds as oxpeckers but I couldn’t make out any features.
List of animals identified
Vervet Monkey
Chacma Baboon
Springhare
Scrub Hare
South African Ground squirrel
Mountain Ground Squirrel
Dassie Rat
Striped Mouse
Cape Fox
Black-backed Jackal
[Cape Clawless Otter – habituated wild animal at Shamvuru Lodge]
Slender Mongoose
Yellow Mongoose
Black Mongoose
Spotted Hyena
Small-spotted Genet
Lion
Leopard
African Wild Cat
Warthog
Hippopotamus
Giraffe
Springbok
Steenbok
Damara Dikdik
Klipspringer
Greater Kadu
Common Duiker
Chobe Bushbuck
Red Lechwe
Roan
Sable
Gemsbok (Southern Oryx)
Red Hartebeest
Blue Wilderbeest
Black-faced Impala
Buffalo
Burchell’s Zebra
Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra
Black (Hook-lipped) Rhinocerous
White (Square-lipped) Rhinocerous
Rock Hyrax
African Elephant
Honey Badger
Porcupine
Striped Polecat
Leopard Tortoise
Nile Crocodile
Dolphin (sp) probably Bottle-nosed
Several unidentified snakes, lizards and a terrapin were also seen.