Overview:
Two Australian based birders, accompanied by one partner, holidaying and (primarily, to be honest) birding through some of the National Parks and better known areas of these two regions for 4 weeks.
Note: for those who know the countries, aren’t interested in travel stuff and just want bird information – please jump ahead to the paragraph titled ‘The Trip’ and read the non-italicized portions, however, before you go, please take note of the underlined part of the second paragraph below. The italics indicate non-birding details. For those who may enjoy the complete story – read on!
Robert had had previous experience in SE Asia – Vietnam and Cambodia – and had spent a couple of days in Fraser’s Hill, Malaysia earlier in the year, this proved invaluable. Di, his partner, while not a birder, accompanied us on most days uncomplaining and patient, even when, while eating, the talk revolved around what we had seen, how we had seen it and what we expected to see – as you do! I had no prior experience in SE Asia worthy of note.
At this point it is worthwhile to be honest and say we didn’t see Gurney’s Pitta, Spoon-billed Sandpiper or any Broadbills so can’t help with any information not already available on those special subjects! However we did have a good number of species, a heap of lifers and covered most of the notable birding areas during our travels.
Getting there and getting around: We flew Singapore airlines into Kuala Lumpur (KL) and, on the way home, Bangkok to Singapore (one night stopover) then to Brisbane = $1500 Aus. We probably could have got cheaper air fares, but chose comfort instead of price for the longer flights. We flew Air Asia from KL to Krabi (Thailand) and from Chiang Mai to Bangkok and found them excellent value for the shorter jumps.
We hired cars in KL, Krabi and Phuket and drove quite extensively in both countries without any issues. While local transport would have been cheaper by far, the hire car gave us the flexibility and freedom and split three ways wasn’t excessively expensive.
In Malaysia the roads are either local roads or super highways – the latter are toll roads and it can be quite difficult to get off at the right place - as we found on the way to the airport. The ‘local’ roads are OK – but not built for speed.
In Thailand the major road network is excellent and outside Bangkok appears to be toll free. In the main the roads were three or four lanes, well maintained and safe, with a well understood user structure – i.e. the outside lane is for high speed travellers going straight through, the middle lane is for overtaking and slower vehicles, the inside lane for local traffic, scooters and slower trucks. We maintained a speed on the longer stretches in the 110 – 120 km category and were passed regularly by faster vehicles, some, I would guess, would have topped us by 20 or even 40 kms/hr. The speed limit in the country is 90 km/hr, but appears to be rarely enforced and basically ignored by most drivers. It all looks hectic at first glance and can be quite daunting in the village scene with scooters and tuk-tuks apparently going everywhere! But everyone knows what they are doing and so long as you don’t do something really stupid it all works out! Everyone is very aware of everyone else’s needs and accommodates them without hassle – the driving style is reflected in the general attitude of the Thai people.
We hired from Avis in Malaysia and Hertz in Thailand and had nothing but friendly, professional, polite service from both companies. At Patong Beach Hertz gave us an upgrade to a very comfortable, pleasure to drive, Camry.
Learnings:
We probably didn’t need to hire a car in Krabi. On reflection it would have been a lot cheaper to get a cab from the airport to the Morakot Resort outside Khao Nor Chu Chi Nat Pk and back again. The car sat in the carpark almost unused for two days, although we did go owling one night… however to move between locations without wasting too much time a car was invaluable.
We drove north from the south of Thailand and then flew back from the north to Bangkok – next time we would consider flying from Bangkok to Chiang Mai and re-hiring a car there. The drive between is lacking a bit in bird stuff and not very interesting scenically or culturally and the (approx) $80 Aus cost of the flight a much cheaper and easier option.
Accommodation:
We stayed in guesthouses, hotels, even a part time brothel on one night, sometimes three to a room and sometimes in two separate rooms. Some prices included breakfast, others didn’t – some rooms were air conditioned, all had their own toilet and shower. Few provided linen, so taking a sleeping bag liner was worthwhile. All provided a blanket of some sort, a mattress cover, pillow and towel. Only the more hotel-like places provided shampoo and soap. Minor details, but if you’re trying to travel as light as possible – it can help to know!
We pre-booked accommodation in KL, Krabi and Singapore (the latter as part of the deal with the airline). Other than that we had nothing planned – and had no trouble finding somewhere to stay either via Lonely Planet or by simply looking around and asking - except on New Year’s eve, but what can one expect with the Country Cowboy Countdown in town??
Costs and prices:
Most rooms cost us between 300 and 600 Baht each per night whether sharing a room or having two rooms. With our current exchange rates (29 – 30 Baht per dollar) that cost (approx) between $10 Aus and $20 Aus. In some cases that included breakfast. Meal costs were similar – very cheap – we could have 2 courses each, two lots of soft drinks and one person drinking beer = total cost less than $20 Aus.
Our most expensive meal was in a Mexican restaurant in Bangkok where we were hit with an unexpected 10% service fee (it wasn’t THAT good!) and a 7% Government tax to cost us (approx) $70 Aus all up. However, it appears these fees are normal – we encountered them in some places - but only in Bangkok - and not in others. This was very expensive by Thai standards but we were in Patpong road at the market, both material and flesh, so….
Petrol was a standard expense – we did drive large distances in Thailand, and generally it cost around 1400 – 1500 Baht to fill the car (approx $50). This cost is obviously dependent on external sources so one just has to accept it - there is no negotiation on petrol!
Food:
I have never seen so much food anywhere! Fresh fruit and veg markets line the roads for kilometres in some areas. Everywhere we went in Thailand people were cooking food alongside the path. Restaurants and small eateries abounded – except in Bangkok. We had difficulty finding small cheap restaurants there, but as we spent quite a bit of our two and a half days in shopping centres where eating was easy, if not a bit like home in many ways, we probably didn’t see enough of the city to speak with confidence.
You do have to like rice and noodles, though! A preference for spicy food would be helpful, but I prefer my food not to destroy my mouth and only ran into ‘difficulty’ a couple of times in the four weeks. Fresh, hot (temperature), speedy service, and clean, healthy food – not a problem – except for breakfast when cold or tepid fried eggs were a staple…. A good coffee was challenging. Mugs aren’t commonly used so get used to small cups. We did find a chain of coffee houses, attached to a service station chain, called Café Amazon, which we would highly recommend, for that coffee re-charge needed on longer driving trips!
We used current account cards to withdraw cash from ATMs. There is no shortage of those and they are easily accessible anywhere at service stations on main roads or in towns – unfortunately there is a 150 baht charge every time you use it, plus whatever charges your own bank imposes, but it is the way to go these days so we just ensured we withdrew enough to make it worthwhile! We used our credit cards only for major purchases – tours, car hire etc, and I doubt it would be acceptable in most places for meals, basic accommodation etc. Even changing a 1000 baht note ($30 Aus) was a challenge for some retailers and smaller notes are definitely the go in the markets.
Health and cleanliness:
We had no difficulty in cleanliness in either country so far as eating or accommodation was concerned. We did see some disgusting rubbish tips in Malaysia – especially in the Selangor area, which was disappointing. We saw nothing like that in Thailand – the odd bit of plastic here and there in the Bangkok area – but in general I was looking for a place to put my cigarette butt cause I didn’t want to drop it in the clean street….
According to the Lonely Planet water in both countries is safe to drink - however, for convenience, most of our drinking water came from plastic bottles, either self purchased or provided. We had no instance of runny anything and took no special precautions.
R and D chose to take a course of malaria tablets, specifically for the border areas – the middle near the Burma border and the north near Laos. I don’t suffer from mosquito bites – I’m not immune but for some reason they only bite me when they’re desperate - and the Travel Doctor advises that malaria is not an issue for most locations in the two countries, so I chose not to bother. We used a tropical strength insect repellent where it appeared necessary – mangrove areas for example – and long pants, but even for R – the mosquito’s first target - it wasn’t an issue.
The toilets are ....interesting. Outside of the major hotels toilet paper use in the toilet is not encouraged. A hose and hand spray is provided and the strength of the outcome can be quite… surprising, at times! We also encountered non-flush toilets where a large bucket and a ladle were present. All very simple – but really weird when you first encounter it and wonder what to do with it all! Note: the large bucket is very handy for washing clothes in if needed although laundry services were widely available at around 35 – 50 Baht per Kilo; in am, back pm.
Communication:
We didn’t bother using our mobiles – our experience has been that the roaming option is very expensive and we had no immediate concerns re emergency contact. It was also nice for a change not to have a mobile phone attached to your person – although everyone else in the countries had one, even the Buddhist monks, bare feet and all.
Internet was readily available and mostly high speed. I paid 1 Baht per minute ($2 Aus an hour) in Thailand on two occasions, but saw it advertised at various rates. Free WiFi was available in most areas – especially the more touristy locales.
We didn’t send any postcards – out of fashion these days? But did see plenty for sale, although Post Offices were not immediately obvious - then again, we weren’t looking for them.
Language:
To our embarrassment we didn’t manage to learn any Malaysian or Thai. There was no need, everyone managed to communicate successfully despite our lack of education. If there was something more complicated they would call in help – someone who spoke, or at least understood, English was always available. The only word we managed to repeat inaccurately over and over again was ‘thankyou’ in Thai – ‘ka-pun-crap’ , used by men, and ‘ka-pun-ka’ by women – and even this seemed beyond our intelligence level, especially when ‘krap’ could be used as ‘thanks’ - it was just so awkward. Our apologies and thanks are due to the Thai and Malay nations for our lack of effort and their infinite patience.
Itinerary:
We flew into KL and stayed 2 nights, picked up the hire car and drove to:
Fraser’s Hill - where we spent 3 nights.
Then we drove to Kuala Selangor (west coast) (2 nights)
Then to the airport, returned the hire car and flew into:
Krabi, Thailand, picked up another hire car and:
2 nights at Kor Nuchi N P – for the Pitta
3 nights at Ao Nang – on the coast, visit Phi Phi and kayaking (returned the hired car)
2 nights on the Similan Islands – snorkelling, tour operator managed.
1 night Pattong Beach – picked up another hire car and drove to
Khao Soc NP (2 nights) then to
Keang Kreachen NP (2 nights) then a big drive via Petchaburi to
Pak Chong (near Kao Yai NP - 1 night) then another big drive to
Chiang Mai (1 night) and a short drive to
Doi Inthanon NP (Mr Deang’s - 2 nights) a, relatively, short drive to
Chiang Rai (1 night) - visit Chiang Saen Lake and a hill trekking tour then,
1 night back in Chiang Mai - returned the hire car and
Flew to Bangkok (3 nights) then
Flew to Singapore (1 night).
Then home.
Preparation:
R had done extensive research regarding prime targets in the various national parks. I had scoured both Craig Robson’s Birds of South-east Asia and Birds of Thailand to try to familiarise myself with the different (new for me) families such as Bulbuls and Babblers, Yuhinas and Barbets. Not very successfully – I find it difficult to remember details of plumage and name, I like to think I’m better at identifying a bird afterwards - but it did at least give me some grounding in what to expect.
R’s experience in Vietnam and Cambodia earlier in the year was invaluable. We would have struggled without his knowledge and speedy identification of at least the family groups and, in a number of instances, immediate identification, even of unfamiliar birds. His recent purchase of a new Canon digital SLR and accompanying 400mm zoom lens also assisted in identification of tricky species.
R already had both books mentioned above and Birds of Fraser’s Hill and the Photographic Guide to the Birds of Se Asia. We took the Birds of Thailand with us and I purchased the updated version of Birds of SE Asia on our first day in KL.
We had, of course, read lots of trip reports obtained from various Internet sources and the very informative and helpful www.thaibirding.com website – highly recommended.
We used the Lonely Planet as a reference for cultural and local interest and for accommodation suggestions.
The Trip
There were some birds we saw in almost every environment, almost every day. Common Myna, Pacific Swallow, Spotted Turtle Dove and Tree Sparrow. I will not repeat these species in the report – assume they were seen and resulted in the usual follow up in each case to ensure they weren’t something else!!
We have also tentatively identified several species of mammals – we would be happy to hear from anyone who has further information, questions or advice – please email jangles14@optusnet.com.au
CAPS indicates a lifer for one or both of us
MALAYSIA
12.12.09 Our first SE Asian birds were through the glass in Changi airport at Singapore – Pacific Swallow and HOUSE CROW. These were repeated on the long train trip from the airport to Kuala Lumpur (KL) on arrival in Malaysia. We also saw a couple of monkeys from the train – my first wild ones – as well as some unidentified swifts and distant Egrets. We stayed at the Melia KL, very central, comfortable hotel with reasonable prices and accommodating staff. Breakfast was included and was a buffet style providing quite a variety for our selection.
13.12.09 Our first real ‘birding’ started the next morning as we trained and walked to Petronas Towers – ORIENTAL MAGPIE ROBIN (OMR), ASIAN PALM SWIFT, HOUSE SWIFTS and House Crows. We queued for about an hour and a half to get tickets for a visit to the towers later in the day then R and I went birding in the gardens surrounding the towers while D shopped. We met every couple of hours for a cold drink and to check each other’s progress but basically the day was spent in this immediate area and provided a good start. The gardens were amazingly productive 4 ASIAN BROWN FLYCATCHERS (ABF), 2 COMMON TAILORBIRDS, 10 ASIAN GLOSSY STARLINGS, 2 JAVAN MYNAS, 6 YELLOW-VENTED BULBULS, 1 ASIAN KOEL, 1 COMMON IORA, 2 BLUE-TAILED BEE EATERS, 2 PURPLE-BACKED STARLINGS, 1 BLACK-NAPED ORIOLE, 3 PINK-NECKED GREEN PIGEON and the surprise of the day 1 HOODED PITTA!! We also had House Crows, Olive-backed Sunbirds, Peaceful Doves and 1 Brahminy Kite overhead. While chasing up the Pitta we had a couple of Tree-shrews show briefly.
We had scheduled our visit to the towers Bridge for late in the afternoon and following that headed back on foot towards the train station. On the way we investigated a side road in an attempt to access a cemetery we had seen from the bridge. The side road ran down to a locked gate but in the rough feral weeds and bushes along its side we discovered another Hooded Pitta and flushed a probable Raffle’s Malkoha, but had poor flight views only so it remains unconfirmed. A couple of Squirrels chased through the trees.
14.12.09 Up at 6.15, breakfasted, packed and out in a cab to the Botanical gardens where we wandered around, hot and sweaty from one end to the other via the lake and surrounding bush. More good birds – (probable) GERMAIN’S SWIFTLETS overhead, POND HERON sp in the open on the grass, BROWN-THROATED SUNBIRD posing for photos, WHITE-THROATED KINGFISHER exposed on top of bamboo, a FOREST WAGTAIL flushed unexpectedly (we were very pleased) followed immediately, and distractingly, by a large owl launching from its roost and landing again providing a brief view before departing out of sight into the forest – BUFFY FISH OWL. R had an Oriental Honey Buzzard overhead that I missed. Other birds included OMRs, Yellow-vented Bulbuls, Asian Glossy Starlings, Asian Koel, Pink-necked Green Pigeons, Blue-tailed Bee Eaters, ABFs, Purple-backed Starlings, Peaceful Dove, Black-naped Oriole, Little (or Striated) Heron and Javan Myna. We also had Plantain & Horse-tailed Squirrels in the trees around the ponds.
Well pleased we caught a cab back to the hotel, collected our bags and went on to the Avis depot to collect our Honda Civic, then it was off to the fabled Fraser’s Hill. The road north was relatively easy and we found our way to Batu caves, although we went round the same roundabout twice…. Huge Buddha statue and 272 steps to the caves at the top, no special birds seen, although R had had Blue Whistling Thrush here in February, but the monkeys are worth the climb. After taking photos we headed back down the steps and a green coconut drink at the bottom, then we wandered to the left of the steps (as you face them) and across the car park where we were invited in to what appeared to be a new section of cave still under construction with lots of images carved or placed into the niches along the side walls. It was quite interesting and again we took photos as the workmen encouraged us. As we came back out we recognised Barn Swallows perching on the wires, Zebra Doves and Javan Mynas, a Common Tailorbird at the base of a nearby tree and higher up a BLUE ROCK THRUSH perched on an exposed stump, while a PIED TRILLER flew into the leafy branches.
We headed back to the main road and on north. Just before Kaula Kabu Bharu we spotted a lake and grassy area on our right and quickly decided it was time for a leg stretch and water out break. We parked in an unsealed side track and walked towards the lakes edge. We flushed a PURPLE HERON and a YELLOW BITTERN and a small flock of Scaly-breasted (Nutmeg) Munia and in a thicket of grass a YELLOW-BELLIED PRINIA . We walked back to the track and headed towards the shade of the trees 100 meters further on. We had Yellow-vented Bulbuls then a BANDED WOODPECKER, a pair of SCARLET-BACKED FLOWERPECKERS overhead, BLACK-HEADED BULBUL in the shadows, Blue-tailed Bee Eaters, Barn Swallows and a Yellow-fronted Canary escape, which resulted in a lot of discussion! WOW!! So much so fast, it was a lot to take in.
We headed on and ran into a sudden rainstorm which almost flooded the road in places but was over very quickly as we began the climb up the hill. Towards the top, before the Gap, we stopped at an open area beside a waterfall. R had had some good birds just here earlier in the year and we hoped to repeat the experience! In the 10 minutes or so we had MUGIMAKI and VERDITER FLYCATCHERS, a Grey Wagtail, a flying Lizard and a GREY-BELLIED BULBUL high in the canopy.
Continuing on up the windy road we came across several Long-tailed Macaques and, at one point, a family party scattered across the road forced a stop. I have stopped for sheep – often, cattle – occasionally, kangaroos – carefully, monkeys? - this was a first!
We arrived at the Gap just before 16.00 and were obliged to wait an hour for the gate to open as the New road was still closed and it was one way traffic on a scheduled basis from the Gap to the top of the ‘Hill’.
We didn’t waste the time! R and I walked down the road from the gate towards the new road and at the first bend stepped off into an overgrown gully to the left. Standing in the open we had 2 GREATER-RACKET-TAILED DRONGOS hunting overhead, ASHY and BRONZED DRONGOS put in appearances, several CRESTED BULBULS, a CRESTED JAY and BLACK LAUGHING THRUSHES in the surrounding bushes and, higher up and further back, ORANGE-BACKED and CRIMSON-WINGED WOODPECKER. Overhead Glossy Swiflets and Asian Palm Swifts zoomed and dived.
Finally arrived at Fraser’s Hill at 17.15 and booked into the Shazan Inn, 3 to the room, (208 Ringets per night = $225 Aus for three nights all in, including breakfast or $25 Aus each person per night)
A cloudy evening - R and I had a quick walk with the last of the light and had an ABF and a BLACK-THROATED SUNBIRD in the car park and a JAVAN CUCKOO-SHRIKE flew overhead. A pair of SLENDER-BILLED CROWS high in a nearby tree.
After dinner at the Shazan, which was a confusing mix up that delayed our meal by about 40 minutes, R and I went for an owling walk. Rain started shortly afterwards and put a dampener on our hopes. We did hear Mountain Scops calling, but were unable to locate it, as compensation an ORANGE-HEADED THRUSH put in a surprise appearance on a fence on the road in front of the hotel, looking momentarily Pitta like in the street lights and rain.
So ended one of the biggest tick fests I have had – 26 lifers in one day! Hard to take it all in, will I be able to keep up?
15.12.09 Up before dawn and down to the ‘top gate’ to listen for Malayan Whistling Thrush. We could hear it but couldn’t lure it out into the open. We walked up a side road from the gate checking the trees and foliage on both sides of the road and as a result had several LITTLE CUCKOO-DOVEs, a BLUE NUTHATCh while MOUNTAIN IMPERIAL PIGEONS flew over head and a GREATER YELLOWNAPE put in a brief appearance. As we walked back to the corner birds started to appear in the slope above the road and I was in my first bird wave.. In less than 10 minutes we had identified at least 2 WHITE-THROATED FANTAILS, a pair of SPECTACLED LAUGHING THRUSHES (previously Chestnut-capped), several BLUE-WINGED SILVAS (previously Minlas), SILVER-EARED MESIAS, MOUNTAIN FULVETTAS, 4 or 5 GOLDEN BABBLERS, a LITTLE PIED FLYCATCHER, a flock of LONG-TAILED SIBIAS, a single MOUNTAIN BULBUL and a couple of LESSER RACKET-TAILED DRONGOS. Wow!! 7 lifers at once, 11 before breakfast.
After breakfast off to Jeriau Waterfall to try for forktails. None appeared but we did have a number of OCHRACEOUS BULBUL, a pair of FIRE-BREASTED FLOWERPECKERS, a pair of PLAIN FLOWERPECKERS and a TEMMINCK’S SUNBIRD about half way down the first part of the trail. There were several people walking to and from the waterfall so we walked back and on further up the road with little further success except a small flock of Munia that R believed were White-rumped, but the view was not good enough to confirm. We also had Yellow-vented Bulbul in numbers, Barn Swallows, OMRs, more Spectacled Laughing Thrushes and a Verditer Flycatcher.
We returned to ‘town’ for coffee’ and met Malcolm and Susan, birders from the UK, well, Malcolm anyway. Coffee was dismal and they suggested we try Tea Tarik – which we did and all became immediately addicted! A hot, sweet, foamy if it’s made correctly, tea for about $1 Aus a mug.
After a couple of teas we decided to try one of the forest trails and chose the closest – Hemmant Trail, 100 meters or so away from the village centre.
As we walked towards the start R noticed a bird sitting quietly in the top of a nearby tree – a FIRE-TUFTED BARBET, and in the next tree a poor view of LARGE NILTAVA. Just after we entered the forest a White-thighed Langur was found sitting quietly above the trail chewing leaves. He was patient enough to allow repeated photography until he decided he’d had enough and moved on, as we did… into our next bird wave.. Mountain Fulvettas kicked it off, followed by BLACK-EARED SHRIKE-BABBLER (a real favourite), Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, White-throated Fantail, Golden Babblers and Yellow-browed and CHESTNUT-CROWNED WARBLERS. STREAKED SPIDERHUNTERS put in a brief appearance, while GREY-CHINNED MINIVETS rainbowed through the trees above and Silver-eared Mesias moved discreetly through the undergrowth, we also had more Spectacled Laughing Thrushes, a couple of Black-throated Sunbirds and a few Mountain Imperial Pigeons.
We finished the Hemmant Trail (0.5 km)and walked the short distance to the Bishop Trail. This is a rougher and longer (1.5 km) track and less birdy but we still did very well – BLACK-BROWED BARBET (2) not long after the start and further in on a steep section crippling views of a pair of RED-HEADED TROGON. This was to be our one and only Trogon of the trip so it is lucky we had excellent views here. Not long after that negotiating a tricky section and somehow both R and I looked up through a gap in the trees at the same time and both shouted “HORNBILLS” as three huge birds winged their way across the blue sky a couple of hundred meters or so above us. It was only a brief glimpse of the large dark birds with the distinct white crest and nape of WHITE-CROWNED HORNBILL but how exciting! On the Bishop Trail we also had Black-throated Sunbird (1), Ochraceous Bulbul (1), Mountain Fulvettas (3), White-throated Fantails (4), Yellow-browed Warbler (2), Long-tailed Sibia (10), Streaked Spiderhunter (1), 1 Silver-eared Mesia, 2 Javan Cuckoo-shrikes and on the road back to the Hotel, a walk of about 2 kms, another pair of Grey-chinned Minivets, a second Large Niltava and several groups of Western Striped Squirrel kept us entertained.
Had dinner, as recommended by Malcolm and Susan, in the little Chinese restaurant - Restaurant Hill View – very nice and very cheap, this was to become our lunch and dinner and meeting place from now on. No owling tonight – crashed around 23.00.
16.12.09 Up at 6.30 again – and again tried for the Whistling Thrush near the top gate – again we heard it and again it refused to give itself up. Back this time for breakfast before anything else and then into the car and down the hill to the Gap at first opening of the road at 8.00. Malcolm had told us of a fruiting tree opposite the (still closed) resort at the Gap and we wanted to see the birds he reported had been there yesterday. We quickly located the huge tree in the gully below us and set up to watch and scan. In the hour and a half that followed we had Black-crested Bulbul, Black Laughing Thrush, JERDON’S BAZA, overhead, Grey Wagtail, ASIAN FAIRY BLUEBIRD, THICK-BILLED GREEN PIGEON, GREATER GREEN LEAFBIRD, LONG-TAILED MINIVET, GOLD-WHISKERED BARBET, EVERETT’S WHITE-EYE, ABF, Streaked Sipderhunters and BLACK-BELLIED MALKOHA in and around the tree. It was difficult at times to see all the birds and we probably missed some species among the leaves.
It seemed to calm down after a while so we went for a drive to the bottom of the New Road and started up for a short way, however, it was a bit hairy on some of the corners and we didn’t know what might be coming down so we went back, parked up and began walking up the ‘old road’. Nothing much in the 30 minutes we spent there, before R went back to get the car and pick us up – while he was gone I had a LONG-BILLED SPIDERHUNTER – such is life! Back at the top and R and I tried the Hemmant trail again while Di had a rest. We got a great response and stonking views of LESSER SHORTWING between the two little bridges in the first section of the track from the village end, had another bird wave similar to the morning, getting crippling views of Silver-eared Mesia this time and identified one of the problem Warblers as ARCTIC WARBLER.
After another Chinese style lunch we drove up to the Telecom ‘track’ – which is in fact, a bitumen road circling the highest point of the hill. We walked around from right to left, a distance of a couple of kms and, although not hugely active we had some excellent birds – RED-BEARDED BEE EATER, MALAYAN (previously Chestnut-crowned) LAUGHING THRUSH, a BLACK AND CRIMSON ORIOLE perched high on a tree on the ridge and a couple of RUFOUS-BELLIED SWALLOWS on the high tension wires confirmed the worth of the ‘scope. We also had ABFs, Black-throated Sunbirds, 1 Little Pied Flycatcher, Streaked Spiderhunter, an unid raptor, Barn Swallows, another Javan Cuckoo-shrike, and Greater Yellownape, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, Mountain Fulvettas, a Mugimaker Flycatcher and a pair of FIERY MINIVETS, 5 White-throated Fantails, another Black-browed Barbet, 4 Grey-chinned Minivets, several Golden Babblers and a Little Cuckoo-dove and R got his first Long-billed Spiderhunter. We also had a single Hornbill fly over – WREATHED HORNBILL.
When we reached the car we drove to the New Road as we had heard that Hornbills were possible late in the afternoon. It is possible to drive at least part way down the new Road from the top – we went to where the road opens out and affords a view out over the valleys. A Tiger had been seen in this very area in recent weeks and photos on mobile phones had been passed around. We didn’t stray far from the car….
Malcolm and Susan were at the lookout point with the local guide, Mr Durai, and were intent on the valley below. A pair of RHINOCEROUS HORNBILLS were calling faintly somewhere below, but it was 15 minutes before Malcolm spotted movement and another 10 minutes before everyone had seen one or both of the birds, through the scopes at maximum power, in the trees approx 2 kms away across the valley. An awesome sight despite the distance, the size and behaviour of this huge bright bird has to be seen to be believed. As we stood around discussing the situation and chatting in general a raptor flew overhead and was quickly identified as a CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE – a few minutes later R pointed out a Bulbul perching in the ferns and he and I hurried to try to get photos and a better view of STRIPE-THROATED BULBUL. As a storm cell approached across the hills another raptor flew over – later confirmed as a BLYTH’S HAWK EAGLE. The rain and wind arrived all of a sudden and we dived into the cars and drove quickly back to town. After dinner we went for a walk in the wet aftermath of the storm, but the wind persisted and we had no luck.
17.12.09 Up before dawn and r and I were at the Jelai highland Resort as the sun peered weakly through the morning mist. We had been told that the car park of the resort was a good place at this time for various birds feeding under the lights that had been left on all night. It wasn’t very promising at first sight, although the appearance of a friendly, obviously pet, rabbit was a bit surreal and made me wonder if I was still asleep as it lolloped across the car park and sat and cleaned its ears. We speculated on its possible survival chances – and didn’t rate them very highly. A flash of green in a pot plant across the carpark caught my eye and our main quarry appeared on the stage – GREEN MAGPIE – wow, what a stunner! We had excellent views as it moved through and along the edging of bush behind the small lawn. 5 minutes and it had disappeared; we walked down the road to the boating lake and had a BROWN SHRIKE on the roadside. We also had Streaked Spiderhunter, Mountain Fulvettas, Long-tailed Sibias, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, Spectacled Laughing Thrush, Blue-winged Silva, Black-throated Sunbird and White-throated Fantail, Golden Babblers, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Mountain Bulbul and OMRs.
Heading back to the hotel for breakfast R suggested we have a quick look at the top gate for the Whistling Thrush again – seemed like a waste of time, but as we pulled up a SLATY-BACKED FORKTAIL walked across the side road! It disappeared and we couldn’t find it again, but a short walk up and down the road produced more Grey-chinned Minivets, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, a Mountain Bulbul, White-throated Fantails, Streaked Spiderhunter, Black-throated Sunbird and Silver-eared Mesia.
After breakfast we decided to try the Jeriau waterfall again. It was even busier than the last day and we didn’t spend much time there. We did have another Wreathed Hornbill flyover and confirmed WHITE-RUMPED MUNIA with 3 or 4 birds in the long grass along the road’s edge. Yellow-vented and Ochraceous Bulbuls in small numbers, a pair of Fire-breasted and single Plain Flowerpeckers completed the birding. A very still misty morning was developing and we were heading down the mountain anyway but we decided a quick visit to the lookout on the New Road was in order – and had 2 Bronze Drongos and another (or maybe the same) Crested Serpent Eagle overhead. We hit the down hill road and left Fraser’s Hill on the noon time opening, stopping off at the fruiting tree in the Gap for Black-crested Bulbuls, 1 Rufous-bellied Swallow, Asian Fairy Bluebird and a CHESTNUT-BELLIED MALKOHA that decided a road crossing was necessary!
We stopped off again at the waterfall for a Grey Wagtail and a Black-crested Bulbul – very quiet – then at the reservoir and the open picnic type area where we had OMRs, Yellow-vented and Stripe-throated Bulbuls and very close views of my first COMMON IORA.
Further along and we stopped off at the lake area again near Kiaula Kabu Bharu and this time added GREAT-BILLED HERON, House Swift, Pink-necked Green Pigeon, BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON, PIED FANTAIL, ASHY TAILORBIRD and Brown Shrike to our area list for this spot. A pair of White-fronted Waterhens squabbled in the reeds and R got onto them – I just couldn’t pick them and so missed out (temporarily as it turned out) on yet another new bird!
We arrived in Kuala Selangor late in the afternoon after a fairly roundabout sort of drive that exposed huge areas of clearing without any clear purpose except for probable oil palm plantations. We headed straight into the Nature Park a few hundred meters from the main town street and booked into two A frame huts at 25 Ringets each per night ($8 Aus approx) Very basic – no linen, cold water in the shared toilet and shower block, no air con and the voltage was so low my fan did not rotate – until one o’clock in the morning when it started voluntarily scaring the bejasus out of me! There were no mossie screens on the door and the one on my window was torn – and there were mossies around in the evening. Despite all this we did sleep well.
We went for a quick walk before dark, down to the lake area, about 200 meters in from the entrance and climbed the cement tower hide for a good view over the mangroves. There were Intermediate & Great Egrets, Grey and Little Heron, and several Brahminy Kites circled over the trees. We also had WHITE-FRONTED WATERHENS and a BLACK-CAPPED KINGFISHER.
As darkness fell R & D were being troubled by the mosquitoes so we gave it away and headed into town for a meal. I had obtained directions from the Nature Park receptionist for a ‘good’ restaurant and following those we ended up on the other side of the river in a Chinese restaurant on stilts over the water. Their specialty was obviously fish based meals – which none of us were keen on - but they had cold drinks and enough choice on the menu for us to eat satisfactorily. Back to Selangor town and 5 The Tariks cost us 7.5 Ringets or $2.50 Aus – much better value! Went to a nearby Internet café and did some emailing – very cheap, but very noisy with all the local boy population playing computer games at top volume!
18.12.09 Apart from the self starting fan we all slept well, the mossies seemed to disappear after dark and when R and I got up at 6.30 to move the car outside the fence before 7.00 when they reportedly shut the gate (what’s that all about anyway?) there was a Large-tailed Nightjar calling nearby. We headed into the park at 7.30 and almost immediately flushed a BARRED EAGLE OWL at very close range. We saw this bird several times over the next 48 hours around the entrance to the track and the car park – amazing to see such a large owl at close quarters.
We walked in again to the concrete tower hide and R started up the stairs- then started back down again. I asked him what was the problem and he said a monkey was threatening him. We had seen several troops of Long-tailed Macaques in the camp ground and the park, they are a smallish monkey and I figured R was over reacting. I headed up the stairs to see the offender at the next level peering through the bars like a child prisoner. I told him off confidently and started further up. The snarl and the crazy look in his eyes stopped me and I considered chasing him with my tripod, however, his grasping hands and attempts to grab the legs of the tripod dissuaded me and I decided that he could have his tower, we’d come back later….
We walked around the edge of the swampy lake for about two hours arriving back at our start point having seen Yellow-vented Bulbul, YELLOW PRINIA, Pink-necked Green Pigeon, COMMON FLAMEBACK, Hair Crested (Spangled) Drongo, Common & Ashy Tailorbird, Pied Fantail, Arctic Warbler, Javan Myna, Collared Kingfisher, White-rumped, Scaly-breasted and WHITE-HEADED MUNIA (2), Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, Asian Koel, Olive-backed Sunbird, GOLDEN-BELLIED GERYGONE, OMRs, ORIENTAL WHITE-EYE, Barn swallow, Common Kingfisher, Purple Herons, Peaceful Dove and House Crow.Red Jungle Fowl called deep in the undergrowth, but didn't show. (Our monkey was gone when we returned to the tower – but I noticed R let me go up the stairs first!)
For breakfast we found a restaurant out on the main road that served the local population and had noodles, smoothies and The Tariks for a total of less than $10 Aus and personal attention from the owner. Then it was back to Selangor and a walk up the hill in the middle of town. We had close up views of Sundaic Silvered Langurs being fed by local tourists. Interestingly the black adults had several bright orange young ones with them. We added Asian Glossy Starlings, Black-naped Orioles, Yellow-vented Bulbuls, Brown-throated Sunbirds, Blue-tailed Bee Eaters, White-throated Kingfishers, ABFs and 1 TIGER SHRIKE to our list for the area and had stunning views of a Crested Serpent Eagle perched in a tree on the way down.
Our next target was the paddy fields north of the town near Tanjon Karang and Sekinchan and we drove into the rain. For a while we drove around seeing very little and finally stopped in a small village for more The Tarik at a Chinese restaurant and sat watching the local traffic – mainly small motorbikes driven by people carrying umbrellas to keep off the rain…
It eased after a while and we returned to paddy field seeing CINNAMON BITTERN, White-throated Kingfishers, 1 Black-shouldered Kite, heaps of Little Egrets and 1 Cattle Egret, 3 Purple Herons together and 3 LITTLE RINGED PLOVER together too. Wood and Marsh Sandpiper, Grey and Little Herons, Javan Myna and Barn Swallow.
After a while we headed down to the coast and searched for waders – lots of Common Sandpipers, Barn Swallows, Asian Glossy Starlings, Little Egrets, Grey Heron, Yellow-vented Bulbuls, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker and Little Herons. We never found a roost, but did have a couple of Redshanks, a Bar-tailed Godwit and a Whimbrel. We drove along the bund and had various birds – Ashy Tailorbird, White-fronted Waterhen, Sacred Kingfisher, Black-throated Sunbird, Golden-bellied Gerygones, a Brown Shrike and a GREATER COUCAL. We also saw some disgusting rubbish tips at the back of the mangroves – the water and mud literally covered with plastic and stinking piles of disposable nappies. The locals appeared not to notice and were obviously contributing to the mess. It was the one and only time on the trip we were disappointed with uncaring, indiscriminate pollution and it was bad!
Back to the paddy fields and Common Moorhen, EASTERN MARSH HARRIER, PLAIN PRINIA, RUSTY-RUMPED WARBLER, Blue-tailed Bee Eaters, Brown Shrike and Pacific Golden Plover were added to our list – then a pleasant surprise – WATERCOCKS, several put in appearances. As we watched them and looked for other interesting rails or crakes between the rows of rice, Di pointed out three men further down the road with sticks, who, it turned out were netting and catching Moorhens and Watercocks in the fields. We drove around to their van and chatted with them – they were catching, and planning on eating the birds, themselves, not for selling – it was a weekend kind of thing to do. They had 3 or 4 birds trussed, but still alive, in their van and although we felt sorry for the birds, we couldn’t really find fault in the activity. They allowed pictures then we headed off for our own dinner back in town.
We did a quick owling sortie after dark but only succeeded in seeing our Barred Eagle Owl again and a few fireflies between the mossies.
19.12.09 Our last day in Malaysia and we packed and headed off to the airport for a good run on the toll roads. We thought we’d try to get to some wetlands near the airport but when we ‘exited’ the toll road we were on another one and so, 28 kms later, we were back where we had turned off (luckily!) and headed on to the airport and our Air Asia flight to Krabi. The tolls were very cheap, but the off ramps very far apart…..
THAILAND
We landed in Krabi, Thailand at 14.05 and paid 350 baht for a cab ride to town. We tried to get to the Hertz office, but the cab driver didn’t understand what we needed and took us to a central depot area where a helpful receptionist rang Hertz and, to our relief, they turned up 30 minutes later with the Honda Civic. On reflection it all worked well and we would have similar confidence now after spending three weeks in Thailand, however, at the time it had the feeling of a scam.
We headed out of town and found our way to the Morakot Resort outside Khao Nor Chu Chi Nat Pk Within a few minutes of arriving we had our first Thailand tick – ORANGE-BELLIED FLOWERPECKER right outside R & D’s hut.
We were keen to get out there and look for the Pitta and headed up the road to try Trail H on advice of one of the girls in Murakot. It proved a longish, dusty walk in the heat with virtually nothing to show for it. This was to become a feature of this particular area and was a bit depressing after the excitement of Fraser’s Hill. We met another birder, an American, Craig, who accompanied us back to the resort and who shared his experiences in country on several visits over the last few years. If we thought we were doing it cheap, Craig was the epitome of Bare-arsed Birding – and wore shorts to prove it – or what was left of his shorts, he was almost bare-arsed! Using public transport and hiring motorbikes Craig had visited most of the areas we intended to see in the forthcoming weeks so his advice was very helpful – and reassuring.
At dinner we met another birder – Sid, an Indian born, Californian living birder who was on his last night at Khao Nor Chu Chi – neither Craig nor Sid had seen Gurney’s Pitta.
After dinner we decided to go owling and Sid volunteered info that pointed to a drive of about 5 kms to another area. We all piled into the car and headed off to be nearly t-boned by a huge 4WD emerging from a side road – luckily there was no collision and we headed on carefully driving around dogs and the odd unlit motorcycle to the spot indicated by Sid. Using call back we got response from an ORIENTAL BAY OWL, but it refused to be drawn. After trying for a while I found a gap in the otherwise seemingly impenetrable jungle and gingerly stepped in a few meters off the road. With Craig at my back I suddenly came face to face with the medium sized owl! I’m not sure who was most surprised but the owl didn’t hang around to find out, flying up and into a tree, still within sight, but at a safer distance! We all managed to get a look at him, however, so it was a nice end to our first day in Thailand.
20.12.09 Up to a pre-ordered breakfast at 5.45 – Craig and Sid leaving as we arrived, other birders already gone with, we suspected, Yachtin, the Gurney king. We caught up with Craig and Sid on Trail B and all tried to move as quietly as possible through what appeared to be almost an empty jungle. We did have a few birds – White-throated Kingfisher from the road and I got onto a YELLOW-BREASTED FLOWERPECKER that no one else could see and we had a single ABBOTTS BABBLER and a SPECTACLED SPIDERHUNTER and that was about it on the trail!
We emerged from the forest on the Blue Pool trail and followed it to the Emerald Pool where we divested ourselves of most our clothes and plunged gratefully into the warm water for a soak. A large group of tourists arrived an hour or so later so we dried off and headed back to the resort for lunch seeing Pond Heron sp (PH) and Barn Swallows on the way. Back at the resort garden we noticed some movements and soon had an ASHY MINIVET and BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER-SHRIKE in the trees overhead.
Out again with R and Craig to H trail. Again very few birds around – this is really tough birding. Thick jungle with high canopy. Very few birds to be seen or even heard. Fleeting glimpses of those that are there. A need to walk so quietly that progress is very slow and continuous attention to the ground required. Most of the trails almost completely overgrown and difficult at times to follow. Hot and airless in the jungle, sweat dripping continually – it was hard, hard yakka! H trail in contrast was a road, unsealed, but a road which provided some open air coverage and we had a pair of STREAKED BULBULS in the clear, Brown-throated Sunbird, a flock of Fork-tailed Swifts, a pair of Grey-bellied Bulbuls and an Orange-headed Thrush that caused some Pitta like excitement again for a few minutes until we saw it more clearly.
We thought about owling after dinner, but were exhausted after our day in the jungle and crashed instead.
21.12.09 Up at 5.30, breakfast at 5.45 and then R and I walked up to the NP to again tackle B Trail as this was reportedly the best trail for the Gurney’s. We bumped into the other birders and their guide, who we suspected was the Gurney’s man, and passed them on the access trail before turning off onto B. This time we focused very much on being as quiet as we possible could, stopping regularly to just watch and listen. It didn’t seem to make a huge difference, although we did end up with a better list than the day before. We had another Orange-headed Thrush on the access road – well, the guide and the OBs had it and pointed it out to us, but we would have seen it anyway… We got HAIRY-BACKED BULBUL (total of 5), Yellow-bellied and Cream-vented Bulbuls, Black-naped Monarch, Red-throated Barbet, after much scrambling around (silently of course) trying to get the scope on him almost vertically overhead in the canopy. A pair of BLACK-CAPPED BABBLERS, Emerald Dove, Black-crested Bulbul and Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike. R also got on to a RUSTY-BREASTED CUCKOO that eluded me despite his patient directions. Eventually deep in the jungle near the end of B Trail we had a Pitta – not Gurney’s, but BANDED PITTA. Another stunning bird – there were a pair in the area, but we only saw one (female/male??). Apart from the Pitta the highlight of this morning’s birding was the discovery of a Sunda Colugo, a large gliding mammal the size of a small cat that when flushed glided straight over R’s head and then scrambled up a nearby tree - with its strange pointed face and floppy skin folds it was really weird - we also had terrific views of several Prevost’s Squirrel.
We returned to the resort, packed the car and headed off – disappointed? Yes, not with the lack of Gurney’s I think privately we always thought that was a log shot – but generally disappointed with the birding and hoping it wasn’t going to be so hard for the next three weeks. We farewelled Craig near the bus terminal and headed on ourselves to Ao Nang to drop the hire car off, find accommodation and have a cold drink. All of which we accomplished, finding separate rooms for 300 Baht per night. We also made bookings for a trip to Phi Phi tomorrow, a half day kayaking on Tuesday and the Similan Islands over Christmas – 3 days, 6200 baht - $230 Aus.
22.12.09 Day trip to Phi Phi. We were hoping for Christmas Island Frigate Bird, however as a birding trip it was pretty worthless. We did see a few Frigate Birds sp – about 3 kms away high in the sky - and on the islands we visited we had Common Sandpiper, 1 Pied Fantail, Olive-backed Sunbird, Eastern Reef Egrets (4), White-bellied Sea Eagle (6), Brahminy Kits (also 6) and 30 or so unidentified sea tern species.
As the boat docked back on the mainland river estuary, we noticed a flock of about 200 Lesser Sand Plover on a sandbank nearby and promised ourselves to return to check them out.
23.12.09 Half day kayaking tour… we had wanted to go with Paddle Asia, but at Ao Nang no one had heard of them – they did operate out of Khao Sok NP, a long way further north so we had to settle for a locally supported tour group. We are fairly competent paddlers and the ‘tour’ was designed for people who had little or no experience. We were disappointed but did manage a Blue Rock Thrush and some monkeys for the day - one of whom jumped onto Di’s lap and then off onto another kayak looking for food. We did have STREAK-EARED BULBUL in the main street of Ao Nang while waiting for the pickup this was quite exciting, but actually became one of the commonest Bulbuls we saw for the remainder of the trip.
In the afternoon Di chose to go shopping so R and I hired a cab to take us to the Krabi boardwalk. This was an eagerly anticipated spot, we had heard great reports of kingfishers and even Mangrove Pitta at this location. An Osprey perched in a tree across the river was a first for the trip, but otherwise we were sorely disappointed. On our first walk along the 300 meter(?) stretch of mangroves we did not have one bird. Nothing, Nada, Zip, Zero! We tried again and expanded our coverage to include a channel behind the mangroves which produced one Common Sandpiper and that was it. We tried to get the waiting cab driver to take us to the mouth of the river thinking waders, however, his license did not allow him to travel that far into Krabi (I think that’s what he meant anyway) so we headed back towards Ao Nang. We managed to get him to take us to the docking area we had been at yesterday and did find the Lesser Sand Plovers again clustered on the sand bank. Scanning through them with the scope we found several Little Ringed Plover. Just as we turned away to head home R spotted a flock of Pied Imperial Pigeons winging their way out over the sea, we also had about 6 Spangled Drongos insect catching from the trees along the river bank.
On the way back to Ao Nang we found a local food market and persuaded our driver to pull over. Wandering the stalls trying to identify the strange foods was interesting – I chose to try something I had wanted to for a long time – cooked insects. Grasshoppers, crickets, grubs – I got a selection in a plastic bag for 20 baht (80 cents Aus). They were crunchy and a bit like eating sticks if you didn’t remove the legs first. They didn’t taste of anything except what they were cooked in – a taste I didn’t particularly like, but it had nothing to do with the actual contents I don’t think…. R got a couple of palmellos, a fruit he prefers above all else and some other lychee type fruits which were lovely and sweet, but had a big seed.
24.12.09 – 26.12.09 Collected outside our accommodation, all packed and paid up, at 5.30am. An hour and a half later we arrived at the dock north of Phuket, collected a snorkel, mask and fins set and boarded the high speed speedboat for the one and a half hour trip to the Similan Islands, 70 kms offshore. We had one particular reason for going – NICOBAR PIGEON - and weren’t disappointed. Within 5 minutes of landing, we had one walking calmly around the eating area rather like a domesticated chicken really. We spent the next three days snorkelling the reefs, cruising from island to island, sleeping in tents on Island no 4 and counting the Nicobar Pigeons (maximum 10 on Christmas morning). We also had GREEN IMPERIAL PIGEON and Asian Koels, Brahminy Kits and White-bellied Sea Eagles over every island, a single SLATY-BREASTED RAIL and a White-breasted Waterhen in the small swamp near the campsite and a few Pond Herons at the open ponds on the islands. R had a probable Kestrel over one island and we both saw a probable Peregrine Falcon, but the views were poor and they remain unconfirmed. There were a surprising number of mammal species on the island – a colony of Island Flying Foxes over the tents, Grey-bellied Squirrels, a rat and a shrew sp and a single fruit bat that hung quietly for close ups, (pictures available if anyone can help us confirm ID)
The birding might have been low key, but the snorkelling was brilliant, we had turtles, sea snakes and more tropical fish than you could poke a stick at. The highlight was the Manta Ray on Christmas Eve that turned up in a bay where we had anchored for lunch, using the rubber ducky we all managed to get underwater close up views of this amazing creature as it circled the bay. The water was warm and clear (vis 30 – 40 feet), calm and virtually current free. The boat was comfortable and not overcrowded, the crew friendly and very helpful. The food was a bit average and the tent accommodation basic, but overall brilliant value and a really great way to spend Christmas and a few relaxing days in the middle of the trip.
26.12.09 (pm) Arrived back on the mainland after the fast speed boat trip at 16.30 and hopped into a mini bus for the ride to Patong Beach, where we stayed overnight and picked up the next hired car at the Meridian Hotel next morning. On the way we had BLACK DRONGOS on the powerlines beside the road and Cattle Egrets in the fields.
27.12.09 Picked up the Camry at 7.30 and headed out to Karon Beach and the Hilton hotel. We had heard some good reports from the grounds and so parked up outside and just wandered in and around the back of the hotel until we found the pond/lake we were looking for. We had some good birding –COPPERSMITH BARBET, Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Common Tailorbird, Black-naped Oriole, Asian Palm Swift, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Eastern Jungle Crow, ABF, Olive-backed Sunbird, Streak-eared Bulbul, Pond Heron and CROW-BILLED DRONGO.
We headed out before security became too concerned and found our way past the outer edges of Phuket to the Black Canyon Golf Club. We didn’t go in to the golf club – simply drove past the huge signage, did a U turn a few hundred meters up the road and then turned left just past the Shell service station. We drove down this road/track until we reached a locked gate, parked and then R and I walked in along the open car-width track and birded the trees, mangroves and ponds that presented themselves. We had read about this area – seemingly it is slated for development but is directly under the flight path of the planes leaving Phuket airport. We had another Coppersmith Barbet, Black-naped Oriole, Little & Intermediate Egrets, a single, briefly perched, BLACK BAZA, which had been a much desired bird, Brown-throated Sunbird, Arctic Warbler, Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, Black-capped, White-throated and Collared Kingfishers, Streak-eared Bulbuls, a Forest Wagtail, one Little Cormorant, Pied Fantail, a distant white phase Reef Egret (too far to differentiate from Chinese so we assumed the commoner) and the only Dollarbird of the trip. The area was quite extensive and would provide good birding to anyone staying in Phuket, reluctantly we left after an hour or so and headed on to Phang Na.
Another target area – the Phang Na boardwalk was another disappointment – the only available part left was 100 meters long, the rest is currently under re-construction. We met a local, western birder along with a visiting birder and chatted for a few minutes. Ian provided details for another boardwalk where we might have more luck and advice re a national park we hadn’t considered, so after checking the Common Iora as the only bird to see we headed off up the road to the suggested optional spot. Difficult to describe its location - it is on the main road at the last major junction with traffic lights before the town of Phang Na. Turn right if coming from Phuket and its on the corner, pull in to the right immediately you are clear of the lights. This may sound unnecessary detail but we had one of our major targets here within 10 minutes and it wouldn’t appear at first to be very productive. We parked, walked in and quietly walked around the raised cement walkway. We had Dark-throated Tailorbird, Common Iora, Brown-throated Sunbird and ABF, but most importantly called in a MANGROVE PITTA!! We had sensational views of it perched low down while the air brakes of trucks a hundred meters away drowned out its calls! Thanks go to Ian – we’d have never even thought of stopping at this spot!
We decide to head for the NP Ian had suggested too, Tonpariwat Wildlife Sanctuary – go through Phang Na, turn right 5 kms out, then turn right again immediately after crossing the river, 15 kms up that road you come to a steep left hand turn, take it and you will reach the Sanctuary. The road is very narrow, steep and there are (tame) elephants wandering around. There also appears to be river rafting trips available. We arrived late in the afternoon and birded the car park and the last 1.5 – 2 kms of the road as Ian had advised – we didn’t have time for anything else. Great potential for more, but accommodation did not seem to be available in the park – no doubt camping would be an option, but there was nowhere to eat either, so self sufficiency or preparation would be required. Good birding!
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, Little (Striated) Heron (on the river, unusual this high in the mountains?), GREY-RUMPED TREESWIFTS (Brilliant!) Black-crested & Stripe-throated Bulbuls, DARK-SIDED FLYCATCHER, ABF, Brown-throated Sunbird, STRIPED TIT BABBLER, BROWN BARBET, Blyth’s Hawk Eagle, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike and a number of other birds which escaped our full observation and identification. We birded till almost dark, then hurried down the hill again to reach our next destination – Khao Sok NP. After a stressful drive (very dark, dogs on the road, poor map coverage) we found accommodation in the almost hippy style village atmosphere in the River Lodge @ 1300 baht ($43 Aus or $14 each a night - all three in a room) including breakfast, had dinner there, then retired for a proper coffee to the Numngern coffee shop across the road where we enjoyed a good café Latte or two before retiring for the night anticipating a big day tomorrow in one of our target NPs.
28.12.09 Up at 6.45 and R & I entered the NP at 7.00 having paid the 200 baht ($7 Aus) daily access fee each. We followed the track around to the left and along beside the fence line. Very quiet, few calls, few birds, little movement. We walked about 500 meters before turning back and having breakfast with Di. We did have two good birds WHITE-RUMPED SHAMA and BLACK-NAPED MONARCH, both lifers for me, but it was a little quieter than we expected. Along the way we also had a couple of Pond Herons and one DARK-THROATED TAILORBIRD, ABFs and a Grey Wagtail on the river. A Pig-tailed Macaque crashed noisily through the trees and Ochraceous and Streak-eared Bulbuls put in appearances. We also had absolutely crippling views of a BESRA perched with prey in the forest.
After breakfast it was back to the forest and another try and this time despite the number of people moving around the birding was better. In a fruiting tree at the start of the track we had both previously mentioned Bulbuls as well as RED-EYED, GREY-EYED, Black-headed, Black-crested, Stripe-throated and SPECTACLED Bulbuls, CHESTNUT-WINGED BABBLER, BLUE-WINGED LEAFBIRD, Asian fairy Bluebirds, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker and a pair of Green-billed Malkohas flew through. It was full on for an hour or so as you can imagine – trying to identify, point out and keep track of 13 or 14 different species! The value of a fruiting tree was obvious, when as we walked into the forest we saw very little over the next three hours. We stopped off at the Winghin Waterfall and had a well deserved swim in the cool water, before reaching the (unexpected) Visitor’s centre where we bought slightly cooled cans of Coke and while drinking those spotted 2 RUBY-CHEEKED SUNBIRDS and a CHESTNUT-BREASTED MALKOHA in the bamboo at one side of the clearing. We also had a Common Iora and an OMR there and on the way back 2 Black-capped Babblers, Black Baza overhead and Olive-backed Sunbirds along the road. Mammals for the day included Dusky Langur, Western Striped and Low’s Squirrels.
More coffee at the Numngern Coffee house and then I had a haircut and shave, while R & D indulged in massages.
29.12.09 6.30- R and I went for a walk along the road away from the National Park – didn’t seem worthwhile paying 200 Baht for an hour or so and the road offered a change of scenery anyway. Nothing much until almost 8.00 then things started to happen. Overall in an hour walking the road we had : Black-naped Oriole, Brown Shrike, White-throated and Black-capped Kingfishers, Streak-eared, Yellow-vented, Black-headed and Stripe-throated Bulbuls, Pond Herons, ABFs, Barn and Rufous-bellied Swallows, OMRs, Orange-bellied, Scarlet-backed and YELLOW-VENTED FLOWERPECKER, Emerald Dove, Common Tailorbird and a flock of EYE-BROWED THRUSHES flew in to yet another fruiting tree in a vacant block of land.
We had breakfast, packed the car and headed off. This park could do with a couple of days, but we just didn’t have the time to spare. We drove over the peninsula to the eastern coast - the most exciting thing apart from the driving was a circling flock of 5 Black Bazas and the spectacular limestone formations early in the drive wreathed in morning mist. We turned off the main northern highway at Penchubura Kiri Khan to see the Wat (temple) on the hill and the Long-tailed Macaques swimming in the monkey pool at the bottom of the steps. It was very hot and we decided against climbing to the temple – contenting ourselves with the antics of the monkeys doing what monkeys do best and picking up LITTLE GREEN BEE EATER in the small park beside the fountain! R also had a couple of Mynas he believed were possible Hill Mynas in the park too – along with a Common Sand on the ‘beach’, Crow-billed Drongos, a Black-capped Kingfisher, Coppersmith Barbets, Zebra (or Peaceful) Doves and 1 Streak-eared Bulbul.
We headed on north wards, pulling off the road at a random stop for water out…. And had our first RED-COLLARED DOVES – over the next few days these would be seen constantly along the powerlines beside the road. We also had another BESRA perched briefly in a nearby tree and three Black Drongos.
We arrived at Kaeng Krachan NP at 17.30 and immediately sought accommodation at A & B Resort based on a comment in the Lonely Planet that it was ‘popular with bird watchers’ – don’t know, there was no one else there, but there didn’t seem to be any more interest in, or knowledge about, our hobby than anywhere else! We had dinner, then R and I wandered out in the immediate area and managed to call up a COLLARED SCOPS OWL despite the shouted threats (?) of a nearby home owner.
30.12.09 Kang Krechan – another of our target areas. We were expecting a big day - and we got it.
Up at 6.30 and breakfast of toast and tea as nothing else was available. Paid our 200 baht entry fee and drove in towards Ban Krang campsite – about 15 kms into the park. The road was bitumen and in very good condition, we did miss one turn off and arrived at a military style compound where we were re-directed by machine gun toting soldiers. No threat – but I guess the border with Myanmar is so close at this point a military presence is only to be expected. We had a heap of previously seen species outside the Visitor’s centre, where we paid our fee, and our first INDIAN ROLLER a few hundred meters up the road. At an open area of paddocks we stopped to investigate a cow with Mynas on its back – they were WHITE-VENTED MYNAS and we had PADDYFIELD PIPITS and a PLAIN-BACKED SPARROW within seconds of each other.
Moving on we came to a lake below the road level and stopped to survey the valley and mountain sides. 3 Hornbills flew along the opposite ridge – ORIENTAL PIED HORNBILLS - and a flock of Thick-billed Green Pigeons flew in and out of a distant tree. R identified a Red-throated flycatcher across the road – now known as a TAIGA FLYCATCHER. We drove on and stopped again as we heard a strange call – brief views of more Oriental Pied Hornbills in among the trees and bush. Further on along the road and my first RED JUNGLE FOWL - a female, but within 5 minutes more had seen the brightly coloured male as well. We arrived at the campsite and sought a welcome cold drink from the very basic shop. We had just sat down when R looked through his bins and then jumped up shouting SULTAN TIT – wow! A bird we had both promised our first born to see! We ran down the road and had spectacular, stonking, crippling views of at least 4 birds feeding in low bushes beside the road. Walking back to our drinks a Dark-throated Tailorbird was seen briefly beside the road. Finishing our drinks we decide to circumnavigate the campsite before heading up the road and had GREY-HEADED CANARY-FLYCATCHER and close up views of a BLUE-EARED BARBET digging a hole in a branch for our trouble. R also had a small black and white woodpecker fly over – but it remains unidentified. The road from here on to the top is designated a 4WD only access as there are several river crossings – these proved to be quite shallow but probably a little treacherous for a normal non-4WD vehicle. We decided to walk as far as we could anyway and bird along the road.
BLUE-BEARDED BEE EATER sat out exposed on a bamboo perch, then we ran into a major bird wave – GREEN and GREAT IORAS, a pair of a BUFF-RUMPED WOODPECKERS and LESSER CUCKOO-SHRIKE were the new birds – but there was also Verditer Flycatchers, Sultan Tits, Ruby-cheeked Sunbirds, Blue-winged Leafbird, Common Ioras, Black-naped Monarch, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrikes, Black-crested and Streak-eared Bulbuls and Yellow-vented and Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker. A Black Giant Squirrel pushed through the leaves quietly in the background in the middle of this bird wave and a Chestnut-breasted Malkoha put in a late appearance. We trudged on up the road from patch of shade to patch of shade finding a troop of Dusky Langurs with white circles around their eyes sitting quietly above us.
We had crossed two creeks – easily – when I suggested that as it was only ‘5 kms’ to the top we should possibly hitch a ride with the next vehicle that came along and see what happened? After all – we could always walk back if we had to, couldn’t we? So we did – hitch a ride that is and were happily invited in to the back of a utility that already had 9 passengers and off we went. A couple of kms and I’m wondering where’s the top and smiling confidently at Di. Round another corner and up a steep patch and a sign comes into view – 30 kms to the top… R turned slowly to look at me, perched uncomfortably as he was, supporting his back. Oh well, I shrugged my shoulders – what could we do now? It’ll all work out, Di and I assured each other – and of course it did. When we finally reached the top – Panoen Tung campsite - and scrambled stiffly from the truck the driver indicated that we should be back at the car at 16.00 and he would take us back down the hill! We had something to eat and a drink and while so involved Di went to the toilet and came hurrying back to call us quickly to see a Yellow-throated Marten feeding on some meat on the edge of the bush just a few meters away - it was a beautiful animal and a fantastic find.
We finished up and headed off to investigate the top of the mountain in the time we had available. We had FLAVESCENT BULBUL, GRREN-BILLED MALKOHA brilliant views of two birds, SCARLET and SWINHOE’S MINIVET, MOUSTACHED BARBET, BUFF-VENTED BULBUL,INDOCHINESE CUCKOO-SHRIKE, and possibly most spectacular of all, a low flypast by three Wreathed Hornbills – although not ‘new’ the noise of their wings as they approached and passed over was incredible. We also had great birds such as Streaked Spiderhunters, Grey-eyed Bulbul, Blue Rock Thrush and several Ashy Drongos and a troop of Long-tailed Macaques jumped one at a time across the road swaying the bamboo almost to ground level.
We returned to the café/carpark well before the allotted time and at five to four the driver came to collect us. We birded as best we could on the trip down in the utility – it was just the three of us this time and we were slipping around in the back a bit on the steep slopes. We did see several CHESTNUT-HEADED BEE EATERS and several Emerald Doves flushed from the road.
When we reached the bottom we felt sure the driver would expect some payment, however, he dropped the tailgate and closed it after we had disembarked, said goodbye and was obviously intent on driving away – we insisted on giving him 500 baht ($15Aus) as a thankyou and he was almost overcome – we felt it was excellent value for money!
A short walk near the campsite and R got onto a LINEATED BARBET, which I saw merely as a fly away. A Common Kingfisher, Grey Wagtail and White-breasted Waterhen were all seen around the causeway over the creek. As we drove out we came across another obvious birder beside a shallow dam - a scope on a tripod usually give it away! We stopped to chat and checked out the RED-WATTLED LAPWINGS he had been observing. Some helpful advice on getting to Khao Yai NP northeast of Bangkok and a possible next destination for us. We got home without further incident and as Di and I relaxed R went out for a brief Owl hunt. He came back half an hour later having seen a Large-tailed Nightjar and an ASIAN BARRED OWLET. I put on shoes and went with him and we managed to see both birds again, thank goodness!
31.12.09 Up, packed, toast and jam for breakfast again and on the road. Reached the main north road and overshot the turnoff for the coast – U turned and headed back and down through small side streets and villages trying to follow the directions we had for the Wader Roosts on the coast near Phetchaburi somewhere. We stopped at some salt pans when we saw a flock of gulls and, with enthusiastic permission from the locals, walked out to scope them. They were BROWN-HEADED GULLS and we also identified COMMON RINGED PLOVER and several TEMMINCK’S STINT among the hundreds of waders. Black-winged Stilts, Common, Marsh and Wood Sandpipers, Little, Great & Intermediate Egrets, Whiskered Terns, Common Redshanks, Pond Herons, Little Cormorants, a Common Kingfisher, Black-tailed Godwits, Grey Herons, a Brown Shrike, 1 Richard’s Pipit, Lesser Sand Plover (approx 300) Caspian Terns and a flock of NORTHERN PINTAIL flew over as the only duck representative. It was very hot out on the exposed salt pan and we were in danger of being fried so retreated to the shelter of some shade cast by nearby wooden buildings before abandoning our walk and heading back to the comfort of the air-conditioned car. We drove north looking for a road to the coast – Red Collared Doves on the wires commonly beside the road - we knew we were near, but just could not locate the access road. We turned south and headed back down believing we had missed something and sure enough eventually found our way to the Wildbird Sanctuary roost area where – there was nothing. Just a few Stilts and a single Greenshank and, in the mangroves, Golden-bellied Gerygone, a PLAIN PRINIA, Collared and Black-capped Kingfishers, and a Pied Fantail, while just offshore on a line of posts Crested and Common Terns perched. We were running out of time and there was little sign of any concentration of the waders we had, probably naively, expected.
We decided that to keep searching would be a waste of time and so headed back to the main road and north again. On the way I spotted a bird perched on the overhead wires and we had our first ASIAN PIED STARLING – a strikingly attractive bird for a ‘starling’.
We were heading for Kao Yai NP, north east of Bangkok and we travelled the ring road around the city avoiding most traffic. We stopped once as a stork descended over the road and after a 10 minute 2 X U turns, 15 kilometre drive back, found a few dozen ASIAN OPEN-BILLED STORKS feeding in a paddy field beside the main highway. This was pretty exciting as these were my first storks, however, for the rest of the day, and most of the next, Openbills regularly overflew the road and fed in fields within easy viewing! We even stopped at a roosting colony near Saraburi thanks to a slight ‘diversion’ due to a wrong turn. Here we also had EASTERN STONECHAT, about 300 LESSER WHISTLING DUCKS along with several hundred Storks and a couple more Pied Starlings.
We eventually reached Pak Chong around dusk and took the road to Kao Yai – to find it so busy traffic was reduced to a crawl and the 15 km stretch to the park entrance was absolute bedlam. We drove up and down this road trying everywhere for accommodation without success so returned to Pak Chong and started looking there. The town was crazy too – they were holding the annual Country Cowboy Countdown in the main street and even the police could not control the numbers! Another hour and a half and we were no closer to finding somewhere to sleep when we tried one last guesthouse and, although they were full, they suggested that their ‘sister’s place' had room, was ‘very clean, very clean’ was only down the road and cost 650 baht. We, of course, jumped at the chance and followed their directions to be ushered into separate rooms, spotless clean, as all our accommodation had been, and not far off the main drag. I didn’t give it a second thought at the time – why was this place so easy to find and relatively speaking so cheap and what was the emphasis on the cleanliness?
Anyway, we went back into town to join the New Year’s eve festivities and had a fun evening walking through the crowds, eating and drinking from the stalls, laughing with the locals and watching Thais dressed as cowboys sing western songs – it was a great way to see out the old year.
We didn’t wait for the end, crashing at around 23.00 – to be woken a couple of hours later to the sound of a woman giving it her all next door – sounded like quite an amazing performance.
1.1.10 In the morning we returned to the guesthouse, (Sambar Guesthouse ph 0807397899 or www.sambarguesthouse.org) who had helped us with directions, for breakfast and, in conversation, discovered the true occupants of the place we had stayed. The rooms were generally rented out by the hour or three as you require… that explained the midnight noises and the issue of cleanliness – they must have assumed we knew what the place was and were reassuring us! It mattered little, the experience was worth it and we’d slept well….
We had planned to go into Kao Yai NP, however, decided that as it was a public holiday the park would be very busy, we would have had limited time to spend there anyway and all in all it was better to push on north – so we did, heading for Chiang Mai as soon as we could. As we were leaving R noticed a couple of odd looking Mynas standing in the laneway –JUNGLE MYNAS. We also saw a few House Sparrows, the first among the hundreds of Tree Sparrows in every town.
We stopped, as usual, for a leg stretch near Lopburi overlooking a promising marsh/wetland/paddy field area. This type of environment had become a regular feature of the landscape since Bangkok and we hoped for something a little exciting. We were rewarded - as I scoped through the Stilts and Marsh Sands R spotted a stunning LONG-TAILED SHRIKE on a nearby bush and we subsequently saw a pair of these lovely birds. We wandered further down the road and found Wood and Common Sands and Red-Wattled and Grey-headed Lapwings. We had both travelled thousands of kilometres to see the latter in Australia as a one off vagrant so it was a bit unreal to see a flock of 8 and a total of 15 in such a random stop off!
Moving right along we stopped several hours later about 30 kms before Tak and took a small side road to the left just to get away from the road. We parked up in a bit of scrub and wandered around checking out the occupants. Again we were lucky (?) - a SPOT-BREASTED WOODPECKER, Pied Fantail, BURMESE SHRIKE, Red Collared Dove, a couple of SOOTY-HEADED BULBULS, GREY-BELLIED PRINIAS, the ubiquitous Olive-backed Sunbird, Little Green Bee Eater, Barn Swallow, Indian Roller and 2 RACKET-TAILED TREEPIES. Quite a haul for a casual stop!
Our last stop before Chiang Mai was outside Lampang for fuel and in a little wetland beside the service station we had Red-whiskered Bulbul, White-fronted Waterhens and Common Moorhen.
We arrived in Chiang Mai at about 18.30 and at 20.30 were still driving around trying to find out 1. where we were and 2. where the guesthouse we wanted to stay was! The traffic was incredible and the street signs either illegible or nonsensical. They just didn’t seem to match the map in the Lonely Planet. Finally I jumped out, walked into a tourist information outlet and asked the two questions above and – how do we get there? A clear map, a bit of direction and we arrived at Jonadda Guesthouse – booked in and settled in separate rooms at 300 baht and 400 baht respectively. We had dinner and then I spent some time emailing family and friends before crashing at around midnight.
2.1.10 Up at 6.45 – lovely morning, looking out my window I could immediately see a flock of Red-whiskered and Streak-eared Bulbuls in a nearby tree and a pair of Greater Coucals running across the roof tops below. After breakfast, some emailing by R and D and a booking of a flight from Chiang Mai to Bangkok for Wednesday we packed up yet again and headed out to our last target NP – the famous Doi Inthanon. As we got into the car a last sweep of a nearby tree and I picked up a white eye sp – R didn’t manage to get onto it, but we saw more later anyway – JAPANESE WHITE EYE.
The traffic was horrific again and it was a slow journey to Doi Inthanon – the 80 odd kms took us one and a half hours. We paid 630 Baht to enter the park – 200 Baht each and 30 for the car - and drove up the steep winding road to the park HQ. It was very busy, but the lady assured us she still had tents available for rent, although other park accommodation was full. We decided to check with Mr Deang, 200 meters past the HQ and, sure enough, he welcomed us as if he had been waiting for us to arrive and assured us he had plenty of room. We threw our stuff into the room and hurried to start birding. Mr D introduced us to the resident DARK-SIDED THRUSH by pouring worms down a plastic tube to a dish set on the floor of the forest beside his verandah – within minute the unpreposing bird appeared and helped itself to the treat.
In the bamboo above, another White-eye species – CHESTNUT-FLANKED WHITE EYE, a pretty little bird. Mr D suggested we try a side road not far from where we were as the main roads were very busy. We took his advice, parked up just past a little creek and birded the road – there wasn’t a lot to see, actually, and we headed up a track beside the creek in the hope of seeing more. There still wasn’t much but we did have 3 White-rumped Munias, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker and Flavescent Bulbul.
After a while we returned to the car and pushed on further up the hill, stopping at a small reservoir on the right. Here we had a Grey Wagtail and brief views of 3 female GREY BUSHCHATs. Moving further up the hill we were stopped by a soldier who politely suggested we park our car and walk around the ‘gardens’. We appeared to have happened upon a residence used by the Queen of Thailand and, although not in use presently, was maintained and protected for her arrival. Birds could be seen, so off we went – Burmese Shrike (1), Ashy Drongo (2), Spangled Drongo (10), Sooty-headed Bulbul, more Chestnut-flanked White Eyes and ORIENTAL WHITE EYE, LONG-TAILED MINIVET (a pair), BLACK-WINGED CUCKOO-SHRIKE and we flushed 6 OLIVE-BACKED PIPITS from the far end of the helicopter pad. Walking further around we scoped a pair of COMMON ROSEFINCH high in a pine tree - several other birds escaped our observation leaving tantalising mental images.
We returned to the car, thanked the soldier and, returning to the main road, went all the way to the summit. Two and a half kilometres high, the highest mountain in Thailand, one can drive all the way, and the views are worthwhile.
We parked up among the millions (slight exaggeration, but it was extremely busy, cars, mini buses, visitors – mostly Thais apparently – all milling about the gift and coffee house and the food stalls outside the radar installation at the end of the road) and walked in to the famous boardwalk with previously high hopes quailing under the human traffic.
After about 50 meters of shuffling along among the masses, we escaped to a dead end no one seemed interested in - except another obvious birder! Sean from Kildare in Ireland, on a family visit to Chiang Mai, had slipped away for a day’s birding. It was a small world moment as we shared names we had in common and details of where and when.
While we stood there we had several ASHY-THROATED WARBLERS, GREEN-TAILED SUNBIRD (the book does not do this bird justice – it is spectacular) and 2 CHESTNUT-TAILED (now Bar-throated) MINLAS. It was becoming very cold as a cutting wind added to the already low altitude temperature. Leaving Sean we walked the rest of the boardwalk but saw nothing more of consequence. Climbing back up the steps – don’t know if its altitude but they left us gasping – we birded along the road seeing the Sunbirds again, very easily, in the small trees immediately beside the path into the boardwalk. We also had Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike, Black-crested Bulbul and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker.
We headed back to Mr D’s and donned for the first time on the trip our warmer clothes – fleece and beanies and in my case, fingerless gloves! Well it was cold!
3.1.10 Up to the summit again at 7.00 – as busy if not even busier than yesterday. However we had a PYGMY WREN BABBLER at the bottom of the steps and CHESTNUT-CAPPED (now Silver-eared) LAUGHING THRUSH, Oriental and Chestnut-flanked White-eyes, Green-tailed Sunbirds, more Minlas, Flavescent Bulbul, a pair of DARK-BACKED SIBIAS and an unidentified flycatcher. We tried to walk past the guard at the radar station - Thais are allowed in, but he stopped us, politel and indicated we were not allowed past that point he did allow us to take a photo of him and his machine gun. We collected Di and went to the Jeep Trail @ Km37.5 (just past the second checkpoint on the right heading up the road).
We walked some distance in, probably about 600 meters, experiencing a few birds (Grey-chinned Minivet, White-throated Fantail) high in the canopy – very difficult to get onto - and one bird wave which gave us Black-throated Sunbird, RUFOUS-WINGED FULVETTA, Golden Babblers, Chestnut-crowned Warblers and GREY-CHEEKED FULVETTA at about the 150 meter mark. A Large Niltava called but was invisible and a probable Blue Whistling Thrush flew off the track, then displayed some strange tail wagging behaviour before vanishing into the undergrowth.
We moved further downhill to Jeep Track @Km 34.5 and walked up the rough unsealed track for nothing at all! We had a couple of Barbets calling but couldn’t see them through the canopy. This was a disappointing track but it was quite hot again and the middle of the day.
Further down we visited the Royal Garden Siribhume Waterfall paying our 20 Baht entrance fee for PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART - we had a pair - a Grey Wagtail and a flock of hirundines including Barn, Striated and Red-rumped Swallows and ASIAN HOUSE MARTIN outside the gardens.
On down to Warchapital Falls and a badly needed cup of coffee – another Plumbeous Water-Redstart on the river below, then a giant Pied Wagtail in the shape of a Slaty - backed Forktail. We also had 2 BRONZE DRONGOS hawking from a tree in the middle of the rushing river, 2 Blue-winged Leafbirds, and, at the waterfall itself, a Black-capped Kingfisher and a BLUE WHISTLING THRUSH.
It was approaching dusk so we headed back to the HQ/Visitor’s Centre to stake out the pond for the Black-tailed Crake that reportedly was ‘easy’. We started at the pond below the campsite up the side road from the Visitor’s centre, then R found the second pond up the road a bit which looked much more promising, eventually 2 American birders advised us we were at the wrong place still and needed to go further up the road to the third pond and watch the ‘cut grass beside the signs’. We did, until we couldn’t see our hands in front of our face, to no avail and retired for dinner and bed a little despondent despite the good birding we had had early in the day.
4.1.10 Determined not to be the (apparently) only birders NOT to see the rail we were up at 6.45 and back at the pond and sure enough shortly after 7.00 the BLACK-TAILED CRAKE appeared, picked around a bit in the open and disappeared back into the grass again! Easy – like they said ……..!! On the way back to the car R spotted a movement high in a pine tree – GREY TIT –very like its European counterpart but now a split. Back to Mr D’s and another better view of the Dark-sided Thrush feeding on the forest floor below the deck and a Pallas’s Squirrel in the tree above. We also had brief view of SLATY-BACKED FLYCATCHER and R got onto a SNOWY-BROWED FLYCATCHER that I didn’t see.
Having breakfast with Di and Mr D called us out to the front garden to identify a bird in a distant tree – Spotted Dove – but while we were there a small flock of Common Rosefinchs alighted in one of the trees and even as we were checking these little beauties a pair of Grey Tits turned up beside us for much improved views and photos, then it was back to our breakfast!
We said goodbye to Mr D and his family and headed down the mountain stopping at selected points along the way – Waterfall at Km 22 walked down to the platform overlooking the falls – no birds, but nice water. Back up to the carpark and, as usual, the birds were in the trees over the car! It was a small bird wave and we only identified 4 species – a pair of Scarlet Minivets, a Stripe tit Babbler, a Spangled Drongo and a WHITE-BELLIED YUHINA, the only Yuhina of the trip.
Bridge and track at Km 13. Crossed the bridge and walked a short way up the hill above the river –very hot already and this road was very exposed – there wasn’t much moving so gave it away and moved on but not before listing a Plumbeous Water Redstart, Blue Whistling Thrush and Grey Wagtail around the bridge and river, and a pair of Black-headed Bulbuls and a small party (6) of ROSY MINIVETS, including a very pale bird, in the trees.
We decided we’d try for the parakeets at the roost described in Thai birding just outside the main gate so we followed the directions, turning left at the Highlander resort, then left again just before the little bridge – this led us to a dirt track that we crawled along very carefully before emerging onto a better condition road that led us through the ‘abandoned resort’, then the village, to the corner with the large trees. We found all that but couldn’t see any large trees that might have hosted the parakeets so after a look around headed back towards the main road. We stopped at one point and wandered around what appeared to be an orchard between the village and the ‘resort’ – crossing a small creek as we trailed several birds. We had 2 pairs of PIED BUSHCHAT, one Roller, a number of Streak-eared and a large flock of Sooty-headed Bulbuls, a White-throated Kingfisher, good views of a male GOLDEN-FRONTED LEAFBIRD, a single Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, White-vented Mynas, 3 spectacular RUFOUS TREEPIES, although they kept flying in front of us and perched views were limited, Common Iora and a Brown Shrike.
(Incidentally we found that there was a better track in from the village – you need to turn left immediately after the sign in the middle of the village – I’m not sure what the sign says, but it leads to a better quality road through the paddy fields and appears to be as publicly acceptable as the other poorer quality track.)
We headed for Chiang Rai arriving there without too much hassle at 15.00. Booked into a Lonely Planet recommended guesthouse – Baan Warabrdee, spacious room, TV with BBC and CNN news channels, three beds, as always spotless and well maintained – 800 baht per night for 3 us = 270 baht each or $9.
Immediately headed north towards the Laos border and Chiang Saen Lake, our ultimate northerly target area. We, rather hurriedly, birded the lake from the road and a small park – the sun going down was in our eyes and did restrict clear vision however we did manage to see a number of good species. Sooty-headed Bulbul, White-throated kingfisher, Grey Herons, Intermediate Egrets, a PHEASANT-TAILED JACANA, ASHY WOOD SWALLOWS (the first of many over the next 48 hours), Coppersmith Barbets, White Wagtails (4), another pair of Pied Bushchats and hundreds of Lesser Whistling Ducks disturbed by a boatman. We tracked a previously unheard song to a pair of BLACK-COLLARED STARLINGS perched on a bamboo plant and scoped them well, spotted a White-browed Crake among the lily pads, a COMMON SNIPE feeding in the mud, Brown, Burmese. Long-tailed & Tiger Shrikes, loads of Little Grebes, a Common Kingfisher, Common Iora, a Taiga Flycatcher, several Common Moorhens and a large party of GREY-HEADED SWAMPHENS feeding out of the water.
Back to Chiang Rai in the dark – push bikes, motorbikes and cars without lights, dogs and people on the road – challenging, but an uneventful return and dinner in the night markets. Noted a large number of tourists in comparison to locals.
5.1.10 We had organised a ‘hill trekking’ tour for the day and so, after breakfast at the Aye restaurant, we were collected at 10.00 and taken to the river bank where we had a long-tail boat ride up river to a hill tribe ‘village’, souvenir outlets and elephant rides. We had become a foursome with Kim, a Canadian visitor, and as a group decided the elephant riding was not for us. We chose to walk around the village, take photos and have lunch before getting another boat ride further up river to another village. This time there were no elephants or shops but the people offered us trinkets for sale in their dusty main street. We stopped off at several spots on the return trip – at the Park HQ stop we saw a hot spring and, more importantly, a SHIKRA perched in a tree above the river bank.
Back down to the elephant village and off in a mini bus to a tribal area where four different tribes had their own ‘village’ set up. We walked through each village after paying our entrance fee – the long-necked women being of primary interest – and bought some handcrafts. Then it was back to Chiang Rai – all a bit touristy, but with only one day to spare we couldn’t expect much more.
Birds seen along the river – Little Ringed Plover, Chestnut-headed Bee Eater, White Wagtails (heaps), Racket-tailed Treepie (1), White-throated Kingfishers, Ashy Drongos, Little Heron, Oriental White-eye, Ashy Woodswallow, Pond Herons and an Oriental Honey Buzzard.
The drive back to Chiang Mai was fast and, again, uneventful, and we arrived at 20.00. Found our way to Jonadda guesthouse again, booked in and headed out for dinner, after which we walked (a long way it seemed) to the Night Markets. They were quite extensive and by the time we had walked down and back we were absolutely ready to crash!
6.1.10 R and D had booked a Thai cooking class for the morning so I hung out and did personal stuff – emailing, wandering around the area, drinking coffee etc Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker outside the guesthouse the only bird of note. After the cooking class we wandered around some temple sites and took photos before heading out to the airport for 15.30, dropping off the hire car and boarding the Air Asia flight to Bangkok. It left a little late so it was 19.00 before we disembarked. We had read in the Lonely Planet that it was better to get a cab at the organised rank than a local cab. Obviously everyone else had read that too and we waited an hour or so before finally getting placed in a cab for the city at an agreed price of 500 baht. A 140 kms an hour ride on the expressway came to a grinding halt, literally – when we hit Bangkok traffic. We were two hours in the cab in the end, finding where, and then getting to, our pre-booked guesthouse – Golden House, near Chitlom Skyrail station.
Checking in and dumping our bags we were starving and headed out to find…. not very much open, so it was a MacDonald’s night, as the only choice.
7.1.10 A day in Bangkok - shopping, trains, cars, tuk tuks, markets in among all of which we managed to spend an hour or so in the late afternoon in Lumphini Park birding and had a surprising list of species. Coppersmith Barbets, Black-naped Orioles, Asian Pied Starlings, Scaly-breasted Munia, Eastern Jungle Crow, Indian Roller, Asian Koel, OMRs, Streak-eared Bulbul, Pied Fantail, Common Kingfisher, Ashy Drongo, Little Egret and Little Heron and 2 Black-crowned Night Herons. A THICK-BILLED WARBLER was a late and surprising identification.There were also large monitor type lizards and a Squirrel or two.
8.1.10 Another day in Bangkok – and a major temple visit day to see the Emerald Buddha and gawk and take photos with all the other tourists. Highlight for me was the long-tail boat ride down the river to get the Skyrail back to our local station.
9.1.10 Up at 5.30, breakfast at 6.00, taxi at 6.30, airport at 7.10, Singapore Airlines flight to Singapore at 9.45. We were free after booking into our hotel in the city at 15.30 and R and I headed out eagerly to Fort Canning and the surrounding park, a 10 minute walk up the road. It was a bit disappointing, maybe we were unlucky, maybe it was the wrong time of day or maybe we had just seen so much over the last few weeks it paled into insignificance! We had Black-naped Oriole, Common Iora, ABF, Yellow-vented Bulbuls, OMRs, Olive-backed Sunbirds, Asian Glossy Starling, House Crow, 3 argumentative Asian Koels, 1 Striated Heron near the river and a couple of Pink-necked Green Pigeons in the large trees on the corner of Victoria St and Stamford Rd. We did have BLACK-NEST SWIFTLETS overhead between the river and Orchard rd where we met Di for coffee.
After dinner that night we returned to our hotel and bed for our last night in SE Asia – on this trip anyway.
10.1.10 Our flight left at 09.45 and we arrived safely back in Brisbane at 20.00 (local time).
Learnings:
It may be that my expectations were a little high and given that we spent nearly 2 of the four weeks in non-birding (towns and cities) or limited (Similan Islands) environment and travelling I guess we did alright! It was disappointing not to see any Broadbills, but it’s a good reason to go back.
Next time we would fly from Bangkok to Chiang Mai rather than drive. Apart from that the only thing I think I, personally, could have improved on was studying the books in preparation. It’s not possible to remember every detail of every possible bird, but if one can get the basics of the families down and some idea of what to look for – that’s a huge step forward.
I don’t know if we were a bit ‘spoiled’ by Fraser’s Hill, but we found the contrast between there and Thailand quite alarming. Birding was ‘tough’ in Thailand, especially in the south, bird waves were much less likely and numbers of birds generally appeared lower.
We also possibly bit off more than we could chew in the amount of ground covered. National Parks like Khao Sok and Doi Inthanon cannot be adequately covered in a day and a half. It was naïve of us to think we could get real value in that sort of time frame. It was a good introduction to Thailand and Malaysian birding, but next time I would focus on just a few places and spend more time at each.
Finally we would welcome any comments, questions, queries, advice etc - please email jangles14@optusnet.com.au. We are also happy to supply bird lists for each area visited - same email address!