Colombia - North Andes and the Choco Vireo - December 26, 2009 - January 13, 2010

Published by Forrest Rowland (rowbird2005 AT gmail.com)

Participants: Forrest Rowland, Dr. Bernard Master

Comments

General Description:

Dr. Bernard Master is a frequent client and friend of mine. Some 15 years ago, upon the discovery of the species now known as the Choco Vireo, V. masteri, Bernard bid for the species’ scientific name with the sum paid being used for conservation and land appropriation in the region where the species was discovered. Fundacion ProAves was one of the primary beneficiaries of the funding and the Rio Nambi Project was born.

In subsequent years, many attempts were made for Dr. Master to come to Colombia to see his bird. Due to the complex and variable political climate of the region from where the bird is known, and several scheduling problems and conflicts, Bernard had not been able to make the trip. We set out to remedy that.

I contacted ProAves and held several conversations with EcoTurs director, Robert Giles, to put something together for Dr. Master to see his bird, along with as many other endemics as could be squeezed into about a 20-day period. Going to Rio Nambi was not possible. We had to discover the bird elsewhere and plan to get Bernard into the area and see it. No small task!!!

During the past months a search for the Choco Vireo and many other Choco region specialties has been underway with the advice of Paul Salaman and other luminaries in the field of Colombian ornithology. The aim was to find some of these species in Antioquia, near the Antioquia-Choco department border. As part of a scouting trip planned and executed prior to Dr. Master’s arrival to Colombia, I, and 4 colleagues, were invited to visit the site under scrutiny (visited twice prior by Trevor Ellory) in search for V. masteri. Trevor met us and took us to the area. The results were impressive regarding all species hoped for in the area, including discovering the Choco Vireo, for the first time, at the site and getting a several-second audio recording of the individual!

The following is the trip report for all preserves and areas visited by myself, Forrest Rowland, accompanied by Dr. Bernard Master, between the dates December 26, 2009 and January 13, 2009. The trip report for the scouting trip (described above) executed December 12, 2009, through December 23, 2009, is not included and will be published separately. Place names for the area scouted specifically to find Choco Vireo will not be included in this report or be published until such time as the area has been negotiated and/or secured by Fundacion ProAves, or at such time as they see fit. All other areas visited during this tour are described in this or other published trip reports and various online resources, and are all part of the typical Northern Andes Tour offered by EcoTurs.

For further information and questions regarding the preserves and location visited, please visit www.proaves.org or feel free to contact me at rowbird2005@gmail.com.

For further information regarding logistics and visiting the sites and preserves, or a full tour including the sites we visited, please contact EcoTurs by visiting their website www.ecoturs.org.

For further information regarding individual sightings posted in the following detailed report, please contact me directly at rowbird2005@gmail.com

Site Descriptions:

Parque Nacional Chingaza is located some 90kms ENE of Bogota, Colombia’s capital city, in the heart of East Andean Cordillera. Getting there is fairly straightforward, though during our visit the main park was closed due to hydrology assessment and maintenance, and general park maintenance during the holidays. The main, intact, habitats encompassed by PNC and its environs (including where we visited) are Upper Montane/Temperate Forest, Elfin Forest, and Paramo. In the area we visited, altitude ranged from 2700m to 3300m.

Parque La Florida is a municipal park maintained by the city (Bogota) and department (Cundinamarca) as a recreation area. It is mostly open space, with primarily Eucalyptus and other introduced species. The wetland habitat is quite good at one end of the large lake that is the park’s biggest attraction. For birders, this marsh and the area where Silvery-throated Spinetails are seen are the only two places worthy of spending time and energy. Playback effects on the sought-after species in the marsh were apparent. Please use proper discretion in the usage of audio playback for viewing and bothering these birds.

The Arrierito Antioqueno Preserve was set up a few years ago to protect the highly localized, endemic, Chestnut-capped Piha. Many other species endemic to the Western Cordillera of Colombia are present at the preserve, along with a great many sought-after species more difficult to find in other parts of their range. Altitude ranges within, roughly, 100m above and below 1400m elevation. The forest is unique, in that it comprises much of the avifauna typical to the Andean subtropics, but also many lower-elevation foothill and lowland tropical species. The hydroelectric plant guard was nice enough to inquire with the bosses as to whether we could look for birds along their main access road, which is blocked to the public. It provided access to good secondary forest as low as 1200m in elevation where we were able to discover many species not found at the preserve itself, though only a 10 minute drive (35 minute walk) away.

The Choco Vireo/Choco Specialty Site is, in fact, two sites on different accesses from the nearest accommodation(town). One of the sites, WSW of the main town and about 45 minutes drive away, is an old road seldom used anymore. A certain distance down this road there is a small cattle trail leading up to a ridge, all owned by a local farmer. The forest along both the road (5 kms or so has been scouted to date) and the trail is through intact, wonderful, mossy subtropical forest. I have never seen the likes of it anywhere else. This first of two sites I have referred to as to the “upper elevation” and “trail” site in the following commentary. Altitude here ranges from 1400 to 1600m, though the road abruptly drops in elevation past the trail. This lower elevation stretch of this particular road is NOT what is referred to in the following description as the “lower road��. The “lower road” actually refers to the main road that runs due West out of the town, and continues on, eventually, to the coast. Most of the habitat along this main road has been cut. However, some 40 minutes out of town, there is forest that extends from the steep mountains on the North side of the road, down to the river gorge, to its South. This forested area lasts some 8 kms, before giving way to cutoff, grazed land, once again. The altitude of this birding site is between 900 and 1050m, making it much lower and quite different from the above mentioned “upper” site. Between the two birding areas, all Choco specialty species are represented, save for a few restricted to lowland rainforest along the Pacific. This area is truly impressive and hosts a wide array of very range-restricted birds. No less than 17 range extensions of more than 350-400 miles, will be the result of this visit, and other previous visits, to this particular site. Incredible!

Though only 45 minutes from the town providing access to the Choco site, the mountain road to Urrao heads North, rather than West, from the town and crosses a pass at just over 2700m. This high altitude temperate forest hosts a wide range of good species. This is a new site for several birds sought after, but less responsive/in smaller numbers, at other sites. Munchique Wood-Wren and Tanager Finch are the most notable of the species easily encountered at this site.

Colibri del Sol (Dusky Starfrontlet) Preserve protects a large area of upper temperate forest and paramo belonging to the Cordillera Frontino, or Paramo Frontino, from 2900m elevation up to 3500m. This mountain range is almost entirely separated from the main Western Cordillera and unique species have evolved there. Until recently, these species were either thought extinct or simply not known to exist. At least one, possibly two, species have been recently discovered at this location and further analysis might provide more insight into the extent of genetic departure from nominate species that some of the subspecies located at this site exhibit. A fascinating place, indeed, with much of the lower forest dominated by oak and bamboo. Many non-endemic, though extremely local and rare, species occur here. Access is by horseback only and is quite the adventure!

El Jardin is a town in Southwest Antioquia, though is often referred to as a birding site, in and of itself. Once in the area, one understands why. The town, and the surrounding mountains are beautiful and a lot of forest remains. There are but a few species particular to this site, and that cannot be found elsewhere. However, Yellow-eared Parrot and the great flocks and birding in the area make it a must-do. Elevation at birding areas we visited ranged from 2500-2800m.

San Gil is a small town in the department of Santander, South of Bucaramanga, popular for ecotourism sports and recreation. It is an extremely dry region, despite being located at subtropical elevation in the E Andes. A large canyon, the Chichamocha Canyon, releases all of the accumulated moisture and the hillsides are dry, scrubby, and forest relegated only to watercourses. Niceforo’s Wren is the main motivation for visiting the site, though it is an additional 8 hours driving, and one night, to the normal itinerary.

The Reinita Azul (Cerulean Warbler) Preserve is one of the less recently established preserves and the area is fairly well known by visiting birders and local ornithologists, alike. Nonetheless, discoveries, such as finding a breeding group of Recurve-billed Bushbirds on the preserve, continue. This preserve is located at about 1500m elevation and the avifauna is mostly E Andes subtropical, with some foothill species. Accessing the forest proper is a difficult climb from the lodge, and all visitors should expect to rise early to make the ascent to the forest and spend all day there. The birding was amazing! One flock we encountered lasted more than an hour, with 40+ species identified within!

El Paujil (Blue-knobbed Curassow) Preserve is located at around 500m elevation within the Magdalena River valley, one of the prominent and most influential features of the Colombian landscape. Birds there are typical of lowland forests, with a few specific, important exceptions and endemics. The birding here was very, very, good and we enjoyed our stay here, and at Arrierito, the most.

Itinerary

26/12/09 – Dr. Bernard Master arrives at about 10pm to El Dorado Airport, Bogota, Colombia. Overnight

27/12/09 – half-day visit to Parque Nacional Chingaza environs for E Andean Colombian endemics. Overnight

28/12/09 – half-day visit to Parque La Florida for sabana de Bogota endemics. Afternoon flight to Medellin, then drive to Chestnut-capped Piha (Arrierito Antioqueno) Preserve. Overnight preserve.

29 to 30/12/09 – All day at Arrierito Preserve and surrounding area.

31/12/09 – Morning birding on the way to Choco Vireo site. Late afternoon birding “lower road” of Vireo site.

1/1/10 – Morning birding the upper elevation and trail at Choco Vireo site. Afternoon birding the “lower road”.

2/1/10 – Morning birding the road to Urrao. Afternoon horseback ride from Urrao to Colibri del Sol (Dusky Starfrontlet) Preserve. Overnight in preserve.

3/1/10 – Morning birding Colibri del Sol preserve. Afternoon horseback ride and drive to Jardin. Overnight in Jardin.

4/1/10 – All day birding the Jardin area, including the Yellow-eared Parrot Preserve. Overnight in Jardin.

5/1/10 – Morning flight to San Gil, Santader, from Medellin Antioquia. Afternoon drive from Bucaramanga to San Gil. Overnight in San Gil.

6/1/10 – Early morning birding the San Gil, Niceforo’s Wren, site. All day drive from San Gil to Reinita Azul (Cerulean Warbler) Preserve. Overnight preserve.

7 to 8/1/10 – All day birding Reinita Azul Preserve.

9/1/10 – All day birding the Pauxi Pauxi (Helmeted Curassow) Preserve. Overnight in San Vicente.

10/1/10 – All day drive from San Vicente to El Paujil (Blue-knobbed Curassow) Preserve. Overnight preserve.

11 to 12/1/10 – All day birding in the preserve.

13/1/10 – Morning drive to Bogota. Evening flights out of the country.

Full Report

The following daily account includes a short description of each day and the special birds of interest seen that day. This is not the typical format I usually publish for trip reports, but I took extensive field notes during the tour, given the relatively small amount of coverage (compared to Ecuador or Peru) the areas have received in the past. A checklist was provided by EcoTurs, but several additions were made to the list of avifauna at some locations during our scouting trip. Therefore, I decided to longhand the daily lists for both that trip and the one that this report pertains to.

December 26: Today was Bernie’s arrival at around 2200hrs. I arrived in Bogota the afternoon of December 23rd.

December 27: We left the hotel very early in the morning to make the 2.5 hour drive to our first destination. Several years ago ProAves set up a nestbox program for the Flame-winged (Brown-chested) Parakeet population at the boundary of PN Chingaza. The original project area was our first stop. We continued on to higher elevations near the Parakeet site, and did not drive the 2 hours around to the main park entrance due to the park being closed for hydrology evaluation and holiday maintenance. In total, we birded from 0650 to 1430hrs, before making the return drive to Bogota to rest up for the big dinner. At 1930 hours several representatives from EcoTurs, Fundacion ProAves, guide agencies, and birders currently in-country on tour, met at our Hotel and we went out for a lovely seafood dinner near Parque 93, courtesy of ProAves. Special birds of the day included 1 Zone-tailed Hawk (1st record for PNC), 31 Flame-winged Parakeet, 2 Langemaure’s Sunangels, 1 Bronze-tailed Thornbill, 2 Blue-throated Starfrontlets, 1 Matorral Tapaculo, and 8 Rufous-browed Conebills. Total 54 species recorded.

December 28: This morning we shared transport with some of the participants of other tours to visit Parque La Florida, the site famous for Bogota Rail, among other species and subspecies endemic to the Sabana de Bogota. We arrived at La Florida at 0610 and birded the park until 1000hrs. From the park, we headed to the airport for our 1200 flight to Medellin. Arriving Medellin, we drove to the Chestnut-capped Piha preserve in Northern Antioquia. Little birding was done during the drive from Medellin to the preserve. Birds recorded included 1 Aplomado Falcon (rare in the middle Cauca Valley), 1 Bogota Rail, 3 Spot-flanked Gallinules, 1 male Lyre-tailed Nightjar, 2 Citron-throated Toucans, 2 Silvery-throated Spinetails, 1 Thrush-like Schiffornis, 3 Rufous-browed Conebills, 2 Subtropical Doradito, 3 Apolinar’s Marsh-Wren. 128 Total species recorded.

December 29: 0600hrs we headed out for the ridge trail (main trail) and returned to the lodge at 1200 for lunch. 1440 to 1600 we birded the upper part of the road below the hydroelectric plant entrance near the preserve. Permission must be obtained in advance for entrance. Afterwards, we birded the road past the lodge. Special birds of the day included 1 Pavonine Cuckoo, 3 Colombian Chachalacas, 4 White-mantled Barbets (displaying!!!), 1 Brown-billed Scythebill, 2 Bar-crested Antshrikes, 1 Rufous-winged Antwren, 4 Parker’s Antbirds, 2 White-crowned Tapaculos, 2 Stiles’s Tapaculo, 3 Chestnut-capped Pihas, 1 Golden-collared Manakin, 2 Sooty-headed Wrens, 4 Red-bellied Grackles, 1 Golden-winged Warbler, 4 Blue-naped Chlorophonias, 2 Purplish-mantled Tanagers. 108 species recorded today.

December 30: Similar to the day before, save for an earlier return from the ridge for lunch. One of our best days in the field. 2 Chestnut Wood-Quail (one male singing fully in the open!), 5 Red-winged Parrotlets, 2 Moustached Puffbirds, 1 Lanceolated Monklet, 1 Tawny-throated Leaftosser, 2 Chestnut-crowned Gnateaters (including one great view of a very responsive male), 1 Golden-breasted Fruiteater, 2 Chestnut-capped Pihas, 1 Wing-barred Piprites, 1 Kentucky Warbler, 2 Multicolored Tanagers, 1 Black-winged Saltator, 4 Red-bellied Grackles. 116 species recorded.

December 31: 0600 departure from the preserve to drive to Choco Vireo site. We birded the forested area near the lake ca. 800m altitude from 0720 to 0840. We had time for only about one hour’s birding the lower road at the Choco Vireo site (900-1000m) in the evening. Birds today included 2 Spectacled Parrotlets, 1 White-tailed Nightjar, 1 Stripe-throated Hermit, 1 Blue-chested Hummingbird, 1 Greyish Piculet, 1 Uniform Treehunter, 2 Black-bellied Wrens, 4 Golden-bellied (Choco) Warblers, 1 Ovenbird (extremely rare in Colombia).

January 1: 0545 departure from Hosteria, arrival to upper elevation Choco area (1450m) at 0650. Birding the upper road and farm trail (up to 1600m) until 1400hrs. Drive to lower road and birded from 1540 to 1630. An amazing day in the field, and one that both Bernie and I agreed was one of the best birding days of our lives! A truly astounding area. Birds of interest today included 2 Brown Inca, 7 Violet-tailed Sylph, 2 Velvet-purple Coronets, 4 Empress Brilliants, 1 Purple-bibbed Whitetip, 2 Toucan Barbets, 3 Fulvous-dotted Treerunners, 2 Uniform Treehunters, 2 Buffy Tuftedcheeks, 3 Yellow-breasted Antwrens, 1 Yellow-breasted Antpitta, 1 Narino Tapaculo, 2 Orange-breasted Fruiteaters, 1 Olivaceous Piha, 6 White-headed Wrens, 2 Whiskered Wrens, 1 Chestnut-breasted Wren, 1 Black Solitaire, 2 Beautiful Jays, 5 Choco Vireos (including 1 carrying nest material!!!!), 7, Dusky Bush-Tanagers, 2 Yellow-green Bush-Tanagers, 5 Scarlet-and-White Tanagers, 3 Dusky-faced Tanagers, 4 Ochre-breasted Tanagers, 1 Rufous-crested Tanager, 2 Crested Ant-Tanagers, 8 Black-and-Gold Tanagers, 7 Gold-ringed Tanagers, 7 Black-chinned Mountain-Tanagers, 6 Purplish-mantled Tanagers, 2 Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonias, 4 Yellow-collared Chlorophonias, 4 Glistening-green Tanagers, 2 Indigo Flowerpiercers, 4 Olive Finches, and 6 Choco Brush-Finches. Total species recorded on this day – 119!

January 2: Today we birded the back road (decent, but rough) to Urrao from the Choco Vireo area. Up until recently, within the past year or so, this road was considered somewhat risky. During two previous scouting trips, the scouting trip I participated in, and the day’s account which will follow, at no time did we see anything suspicious or feel threatened by the few other vehicles or their occupants who passed us. The birding at this site is wonderful upper elevation (2700-2350m) temperate and subtropical forest. As was the case of the Choco Vireo area, several range extensions were found at this site, which we birded from 0630 to 0830, before heading on through pasture and cultivated land to Urrao. The afternoon was spent entirely in car or horseback on the way to the Colibri del Sol (Dusky Starfrontlet) preserve. Little birding, save at the hummingbird feeders around the lodge, was done in the afternoon. Birds seen today included 1 Andean Guan, 1 Black-and-Chestnut Eagle, 11 Barred Parakeets, 1 Flammulated Treehunter, 2 Spillman’s Tapaculos, 1 Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, 1 Dusky Piha, 2 Munchique Wood-Wrens, 6 Black-collared Jays, 2 Grass-green Tanagers, 3 White-capped Tanagers, and 2 Tanager Finches (within 4m, above eye-level, in full song!). Total species seen this day – 56.

January 3: This morning we left the lodge at 0700 on foot to the Antpitta feeding area (2900m). About an hour we headed up the mountain, on horseback to the edge of the paramo (3400m) to look for the other endemic and special species on the preserve. The weather was less than desirable, with much sun and high winds. We returned to the lodge for lunch at 1330, packed, and made our way downhill on horseback to meet our taxi. Late afternoon drive to El Jardin. Special species seen today included 1 Black-and-Chestnut Eagle, 5 Dusky Startfrontlets, 3 Glowing Pufflegs, 2 Chestnut-naped Antpittas, 2 “Fenwick’s” (undescribed new taxon) Antpittas, 1 Blackish Tapaculo, 1 Scytalopus sp. (Paramo Tapaculo?) of possible new taxon, 3 Red-hooded Tanagers, 4 Black-throated (ssp. apicus) Flowerpiercers, and 1 Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer. A species total of 28 only, was logged today.

January 4: Today we spent, literally, all day birding the main road access to the Yelllow-eared Parrot nest box site and the preserve bought and set aside by ProAves. Our local guide, Jose Castanero, was great! He was incredibly informative and knew not only the birds, but the entire history and development of conservation in Antioquia and much of Colombia. We enjoyed his company very much! Birds of note today included 1 White-rumped Hawk, 18 Yellow-eared Parrots (very close!), 1 Purple-backed Thornbill, 4 black-billed Mountain-Toucans, 1 Rufous Antpitta, 2 Ocellated Tapaculos, 1 Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant, 1 Barred Fruiteater, 11 White-capped Tanagers, and 2 Stripe-headed Brush-Finches. Total species recorded today – 71.

January 5: All day spent in transit to San Gil, Santander department, from El Jardin, Antioquia department. This included 9 hours total driving time and a nearly 2 hour flight from Medellin to Bucaramanga. Little to no birding done today.

January 6: This morning we birded the San Gil river area in search for Niceforo’s Wren. Birding time in San Gil was between the hours 0540 and 0830hrs. Afterwards, we drove the 8 hours to Reinita Azul (Cerulean Warblers) preserve in northern Santander. There were only a couple hours left in the evening when we arrived at the preserve. Birds today included 13 Spectacled Parrotlet, 3 Indigo-capped Hummingbirds, 3 Bar-crested Antshrikes, 2 Niceforo’s Wrens, 3 Scrub Greenlets, and 2 Golden-winged Sparrows. Total species today – 70.

January 7: All day birding the Cerulean Warbler preserve, from 0600 until 1800. Great birds today! Our third best day total, including a lot of very high quality birds. These included 1 Gorgeted Wood-Quail, 1 Lined Quail-Dove, 1 Semicollared Hawk, 1 Solitary Eagle (new for preserve?), 4 Short-tailed Emeralds, 2 Shining-green Hummingbirds, 9 Black Incas, 1 Moustached Puffbird, 2 Strong-billed Woodcreepers, 1 Recurve-billed Bushbird (seen well!), 1 Schwartz’s Antthrush (heard only…sad), 1 Upper Magdalena Tapaculo, 1 Yellow-throated Spadebill, 1 Yellow-browed Shrike-Vireo, 3 Cerulean Warblers, 1 Golden-winged Warbler, and 31 Rose-breasted Grosbeaks (an astounding count…from ONE TREE!). Total species count for the day - 117 species!

January 8: We took this day a little easier, given that we had encountered all of our target birds, save one or two near the lodge, the day before. We birded the plantation area near the lodge from about 0700 to 1000. In the afternoon, we searched the lower road area for Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird for about three hours. Birds seen today include 1 Ornate Hawk-Eagle, 2 Chestnut-bellied Hummingbirds, 3 Acorn Woodpeckers, 2 Turquoise Dacnis, and 5 Mountain Grackles. 57 species encountered on this day.

January 9: We left the Cerulean preserve at 0540 and arrived at Pauxi Pauxi (Helmeted Curassow) preserve at 0700 to begin birding. We spent the entire day, until 1730hrs, at the preserve. It was a very hot day, with little cloud cover, but the birding was still quite good. Special birds seen at the preserve were 1 Black Hawk-Eagle, 1 Grey-headed Kite, 12 Crested Bobwhite (on road to preserve), 2 Saffron-headed Parrots, 1 Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird, 1 Red-billed Emerald, 4 White-mantled Barbets, 3 Beautiful Woodpeckers, 1 Lita Woodpecker, 2 Checker-throated Antwrens, 2 Dull-mantled Antbirds, 2 White-bibbed Manakins, 4 Western Striped Manakins, 1 White-throated Spadebill, 1 Golden-crowned Spadebill, 1 Song Wren, 4 Sooty Ant-Tanagers, and 2 Black-striped Woodcreepers. Total species recorded today – 98.

January 10: The drive from San Vicente to El Paujil preserve was a very long one, though we did bird some along the way. Had our car not broken down halfway there, involving a two hour plus wait for spare part and replacement, we might have made it in time to bird more in the afternoon. The following species of interest were noted during the drive: 2 Pearl Kite, 2 Scaled Pigeon, 1 Jet Antbird, 8 Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch, 2 Thick-billed Seed-Finch, 6 Carib Grackles, 6 Northern Screamers, 2 Orange-headed Orioles, 4 Black-capped Donacobius.

January 11: The morning from 0600 until 1130 was spent birding a loop along the main road bordering the El Paujil (Blue-billed Curassow) preserve, down back to the cabins via Sendero A. The afternoon was spent birding Sendero A. We had a great day, with some wonderful species encountered! Birds of note included 2 Little Tinamou, 1 Great Tinamou, 1 Blue-billed Curassow (on the nest!), 6 Marbled Wood-Quail, 2 Blue-and-Yellow Macaws, 2 White-vented Plumeleteers, 2 Stripe-throated Hermits, 1 Ecuadorian Trogon, 2 Rufous Motmot, 1 Broad-billed Motmot, 1 Barred Puffbird, 1 White-whiskered Puffbird, 2 Beautiful Woodpeckers, 2 Cinnamon Woodpeckers, 1 Black Antshrike, 2 Bare-crowned Antbirds (male and female close enough to get photos of!), 1 Antioquia Bristle-Tyrant, 1 Southern Bentbill, 2 Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrants, 2 Slate-headed Tody-Flycatchers, 1 Northern Royal Flycatcher, 1 Black-tailed Flycatcher, 2 Black-billed Flycatchers, 2 Green Manakins, 2 Fulvous-vented Euphonias, 2 Scarlet-browed Tanagers, 2 Sooty Ant-Tanagers, 1 Rufous-tailed Jacamar, and 1 Vermiculated Screech-Owl. Total species encountered today – 104.

January 12: This morning we returned to bird the main border road for 4 hours. We Spent some 2.5 hours birding the trail across the river in the late afternoon. Birds seen included 1 Black-breasted Puffbird, 1 Pied Puffbird, 1 Barred Puffbird, 2 Black-mandibled Toucans, 1 Northern Barred-Woodcreeper, 2 Rufous Mourners, 1 Bright-rumped Attila, 1 Blackpoll Warbler (rare at the site), and 4 Sooty Ant-Tanagers.

January 13: Our final day saw us leaving the preserve at 0630hrs, for the 7.7 hour-drive to Bogota. My flight was out that evening, for Quito, Ecuador. Dr. Master’s flight left much later at night, allowing him to enjoy a farewell dinner with many of the representatives of Fundacion ProAves and a few folks from EcoTurs. Little birding was done during the drive back, but we did manage to add 3 more species to our massive tally – White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, Pied Marsh-Tyrant, and 3 Scissor-tailed Flycatchers.

Conclusion:

Of all the trips I’ve led and planned, this was one of the most fulfilling and fun that I can remember. Colombia, in all regards, is truly a fantastic country. The people at all the preserves, driving our vehicles, helping us from the office, and simple acquaintances along the way, were all wonderfully nice, courteous, and helpful. The birding to be had is nearly without equal. Mixed flocks of 20+ species are commonly encountered, with individual numbers nearing 80 participating birds! There are vast tracts of healthy, untouched forest, and wildlife is abundant and easy to see. Relatively unvisited and undisturbed, yet, I can recommend all with an adventurous heart and love for the neo-tropics to begin planning their own trip to Colombia.

Our final species count was 627 species encountered in 17 birding days. Astonishing! We saw some 33 endemic species, another 28 near-endemics, and some 76 threatened, vulnerable, or endangered species. An incredible count that, while reflecting the success we enjoyed on the trip with regards to the birds, cannot accurately illustrate how exciting the trip was.

Thank you to all involved in planning this trip, especially Robert Giles, for his endless attention to our requests and all the extra effort put forth to make this trip memorable and unique. Fundacion ProAves, at a time when thought near-impossible, has managed to safeguard nearly all of the endemic and vulnerable species in the country and stood against vast obstacles to negotiate and effect the purchase of great tracts of pristine and recuperable land. Endless thanks for their hard work and continued hard work. They have proven themselves a tireless proponent for the conservation of Colombia’s wild lands and continue to acquire land and need support. To all who read this, please consider their impressive resume and support their efforts in any way possible. While Colombia remains one of the wild frontiers of South America, it is being altered at a dismaying rate. Please help save what’s left.