Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
Rufous tailed Rock Thrush |
Roller |
Day 1 (5th May)
The 6th Naturetrek Extremadura & Sierra Gredos tour was not too confident of good weather after the recce teams experience of a snow storm in the Gredos a 36 hours earlier! We were welcomed by sunshine in Madrid and after a slight delay in pick-up we were soon heading towards the Sierra Gredos (this year the tour was run in reverse because of accommodation issues) with the usual Spotless Starlings, Black Kites & White Storks in our wake. With El Tiemblo & nearby El Burguillo Reservoir having drawn a blank on the morning recce, we were scratching round for a suitable stop and pulled off on a rather mundane looking side road off the N403. This turned out to be the beginning of our good fortune.
Serins and Crested Lark quickly fell, more Spotless Starlings, our first Bee-eater of the trip perched on a fence wire. A particularly showy Nightingale greeted us, a male Iberian Pied Flycatcher and a male Spanish Sparrow lined up on the fence for scope views. The first of many Booted Eagles appeared, a group of 7 vultures rose from the surrounding plains; 6 Griffons and a Black Vulture. This was turning out to be quite a stop. Hoopoe, a pair of Short toed Treecreepers, a pair of Woodchat Shrikes, Little ringed Plover, a fabulous Melodious Warbler …. it was raining birds! A few glorious Spanish Yellow Wagtails, a Tree Sparrow, 4 more Bee-eaters and a juvenile Montagu's Harrier. We arrived with 8 raptors tucked under our belts, a most promising start.
Dinner at El Milano Real was far from the usual birding fayre with a spectacular backdrop of snowcapped mountains and a sense of expectation that this birding trip was going to be rather special.
Day 2 (6th May)
We had a chilly early morning start, Black Redstarts sang by the hotel streetlights rallying us on. En route to Hoyocasero, Rich saw something in the river that was most probably an Otter; but it was not relocated. Some Spanish Yellow Wagtails added a splash of colour to the morning. An Iberian Grey Shrike, Woodlarks and Ortolan Buntings were all holding territory, and 2 Hawfinches flew through. We headed back for breakfast but not before stopping at the Parador for Citril Finch. No luck there but a small party of Crossbills was an appreciated token.
It was decided that La Platforma was going to be the focus of our morning. The weather was perfect. Alpine meadows bathed in sunshine, our first Red Squirrel. It wasn't long before we were looking at a displaying pair of Rufous tailed Rock Thrushes in the car park at La Platforma. Rock Bunting at point blank range, Water Pipit and our first group of Spanish Ibex high up on a ridge.
Northern Wheatears, Crag Martin and Ravens were useful distractions but our real quarry was the 'Gredos' Bluethroat and this year they preformed commendably amongst the Broom. We watched them for about an hour displaying and soaking in the sunshine. These intriguing individuals with no throat spot, and a broad chestnut red lower border without a significant intervening black band tried hard to show us that they too were a relict 'Ice Age' split; albeit largely unrecognized.
Plant wise there wasn't a lot of variety because of the late spring this year but the early monocotyledons were out in force and provided a lovely display - most notable was Narcissus Graellsii (a small version of hoop petticoat narcissus), Rock Narcissus and Lent Lily, also Gagea and the mountain buttercup nestled in the rocks by the path. Near where the Bluethroat was displaying we also found some delightful pale lilac Crocus.
A pair of Rufous tailed Rock Thrushes insisted on give us unparalleled close views by the main footpath; our only regret was that the sun was a little too bright!
We meandered towards Puente del Durque picking up a couple of Booted and Short toed Eagles on the way. A majestic male Spanish Ibex surveyed his land and we came a cross a group of about 10 males feeding below us in a valley.
At Puente del Durque a Chiffchaff was found by one group looking for the local facilities, an excellent Hobby preformed long enough for most people to get good views. We walked along the main track and it wasn't long before everyone had good views of the usual woodland species Firecrest, Western Bonelli's Warblers, & Crested Tit. There was a definite lack of the usual butterflies and reptiles, presumably s a result of Spain's wettest winter for decades. We did manage an Iberian Wall Lizard and there was plenty of activity to keep us entertained for the duration of the afternoon. Goldcrests seemed unusually common and Serin, Short toed Treecreeper, Booted Eagle and Rock Buntings were the supporting cast. The group strung out a bit whilst Pam went back to fetch the minibus and unfortunately no one heard Colin's call of Goshawk.
Slightly weary from our walking it was not long before we were back at El Milano Real.
Day 3 (7th May)
A decision to make the most of the evening light and to omit an early morning run was made. Unfortunately, the weather was overcast and unsettled through the day.
Our first stop in Hoyos del Espino was to complete our set of Sparrows. 3 Rock Sparrows showed well, allowing us prolonged scope views. A few Tree Sparrows put in an appearance, as did a few Crag Martins. A walk around the Parador failed to produce the desired Finch but we saw Red Squirrel, Cirl Buntings, about 15 Crossbills, plenty of Serin, Rock Buntings and squabbling Black Redstarts.
We headed towards Bonelli's Wood and despite the rain we managed to find a distant male Black-eared Wheatear between Km 3 and 4 on the Hoyocasero road and more Woodlarks & Ortolan's. As we walked, the Bonelli's Warblers were undeterred by the damp air and kept our spirits up. Just as we were leaving the wood Liz spotted a large brown bird on the ground which must have been a Honey Buzzard but despite a desperate search it could not be relocated. Solomon's Seal, a few Bee-eaters, Iberian Green Woodpecker, more Crossbills, Booted and Short-toed Eagles were our only reward.
Back at yesterday's 'Otter' site we found a nice sprinkling of Warblers – Cetti's, Chiffchaff and Melodious. Another Iberian Grey Shrike and Black Vulture and a field across the river with several hundred Green-winged Orchids.
The plant people were dropped off at the hotel, whilst the rest of the group drove towards Pena Negra in the hope of seeing our nemesis Finch and HB. An adult Hobby drying itself on a close telephone wire was exciting. More Western Bonelli's Warblers were notched up. Fortunately we made it back to the minibus before the weather turned from sunshine to heavy rain, followed by fog and hail stones. A thunder clap flushed the first of many Red-legged Partridge and we made a hasty retreat to our warm hotel rooms.
Day 4 (8th May)
Our transfer day is never straightforward but difficulty finding the lights to the dining room and problems with a stubborn Thermos flask made it almost farcical. Refusing to admit defeat we headed to the Parador. A throng of about 15 birders from another tour group was a clear sign that all was not well, but within minutes of our arrival a male Citril Finch surrendered. A glorious male allowing scope views for most of our group. Unfortunately, some pressure from the other group pushed the bird back into the wood.
We decided to go via Valle de Jerte and on route stopped briefly on the road side to see Early Purple Orchid and the lovely cream and pink spikes of Spanish Lupin. We then made a stop at Garganta De los Infiernos to have a late breakfast. The picnic site at the car park has the tamest Iberian Azure winged Magpie outside Donana, but unfortunately it was a little too early in the day for these birds to put on a full performance. A Golden Oriole on a picnic table and foraging in the undergrowth provided alternative entertainment.
Blackcaps sang relentlessly but the main highlights were botanical. The Western Peonies were flowering at this lower elevation and their brilliant cups shone like cerise flames among the Pyrenean Oaks and Sweet Chestnut trees. We also found Sword leaved Helleborine as well as a crazy looking 4 sided pink snapdragon (Linarea Triornthophera).
We headed toward Monfrague for a picnic. Whilst this was being organized the surrounding vicinity produced Egyptian and Black Vulture, a male Subalpine Warbler, Woodchat Shrike and Crested Larks.
After recharging our batteries we drifted towards Pena Falcon. We stopped at the road bridge where the Alpine Swifts are often found. None of these today, but a male Bonelli's Eagle floated amongst the Griffons, Booted Eagle and ubiquitous Black Kites. A Short-toed Eagle sat on a boulder to the west, whilst a female Bonelli's Eagle sat near the base of a large Electricity pylon to the East.
It started to drizzle but it would have been sacrilegious not to stop at Pena Falcon. We paid our respects to the Griffons and a Black Stork on its nest, a male Blue Rock Thrush approached closely with some food for its young, Red rumped Swallows and Rock Bunting heralded that our birding time was running out.
We headed towards Trujillo calling in briefly at the town square and then at the Bullring to watch a few perched Lesser Kestrels at close range.
We were greeted by Juan Pedro and Belen our hosts at Vina las Torres. Through out our stay they bent over backwards to allow us to maximise our birding time. Their hotel was far superior to the Finca that we previously stayed in, their food was leagues ahead and incredibly they also had 3 species of Orchid in a single site on the hotel grounds! The purple and white spotless flowers of Champagne orchid as well as Tongue and Small flowered Tongue orchid. Juan Pedro values his wildlife and supports it. Bee-eaters, Iberian Azure winged Magpies, Golden Oriole, Hoopoe, Thekla Lark, Short-toed Eagle, Barn Owl and Great Spotted Cuckoo are all regularly seen around their hotel grounds!
We had a hearty meal of local home cooked produce to welcome us to Extremadura.
Day 5 (9th May)
After a few hours at Belen Plains in scattered sunshine our attempt to head towards Sierra Villeuercas was thwarted by heavy rain. The Calandra Larks were not as active as usual in the overcast conditions but we saw a few Hoopoes, Egyptian Vulture, Griffons, Bee-eaters, 2 Stone Curlew and 3 distant Great Bustards. A movement of Hirundines produced an Alpine Swift for the leader whilst the group had decent views of a Great Spotted Cuckoo in some Lygos.
A Short-toed Eagle drifted over. Ten Bee-eaters looked as if they were attempting to colonise a low sand bank. A pair of Black-winged Stilts in a small pool and 4 Spanish Sparrows. We headed towards Arroyocampo in the heavy rain.
At Arroyocampo, Great Reed Warblers and Zitting Cisticolas reinforced that despite the poor weather, we were well away from the UK. Purple Herons kept flying over and Purple Gallinules emerged from the reed bed. Little Bittern and Squacco Heron were the supporting cast.
After lunch we headed off down a bumpy road towards Hide 5 where Black-winged Kites breed. We had a close Purple Heron on the ground and several Turtle Doves. Rich managed to pull out the Black-winged Kite just as our hope was fading.
Our drive to the Portilla del Tietar was interrupted by a very cooperative Great Spotted Cuckoo intent on guzzling a large Caterpillar on a roadside fence. It wasn’t long before we had to stop again for a roadside Black-winged Kite, whose red eyes menacingly glared at us for interrupting its tea. 2 Golden Orioles and countless Iberian Azure winged Magpies, Woodchats and Iberian Grey Shrikes later we pulled into the Portilla. Within 5 minutes a magnificent Spanish Imperial Eagle circled round us with several Black Storks and many Vultures. One Black Vulture swopped so low you could see the glint of its corneal reflex and make out its iris with the naked eye! Scanning the rock face was never likely to produce the Eagle Owl; their nest apparently had moved and the wet weather had wiped out their chicks this year.
Day 6 (10th May)
We did an early morning run to the Steppes, coming off at the 31 Km junction on the old Trujillo to Caceras road; we then headed westwards down the dirt track towards the area that we have previously found most productive. Quail were the first birds up and White Storks appeared to be feeding even before it was really light. 4 Little Owls, 3 Rollers, displaying Little Bustards, 3 male Great Bustards preening, Montagu's Harriers, 2 Stone Curlew, 3 Great Spotted Cuckoos and several Short toed Larks fell in close succession. A close group of about 30 Black-bellied Sandgrouse lifted with most of them settling over the brow of the sloping field. When the dust settled we found 10 Sandgrouse still in view and a close female Little Bustard.
Returning back for breakfast we found a nearby Roller and then one that was even closer!
We settled for a vey late breakfast and a visit to Jaraicejo. Typical birds of the dehesa were active including several Thekla Larks. A Black Stork drifted over, several Black Vultures and a near adult Golden Eagle steamed through posing some identification challenges.
The temperature was rising and time was once again slipping away from us. We decided to drive to the top of Monfrague Castle where we were greeted by a couple of Red-billed Choughs and Griffon Vultures at arms length. We planned for an early dinner at 5:30 pm to allow us time to give the Eagle Owl a proper vigil.
Lynn & Liz had previously seen Eagle Owl well and opted for a gentle stroll around Vinas las Torres. They spent the evening with Golden Orioles flitting amongst the Olive Groves, European Nightjar at their feet, rescuing an Azure winged Magpie, and Scops Owl heralding the end of their birding day.
Everyone else headed towards the Portilla again but this time stopping on route for a short botany break. Including Slender, Greater and Branched Broomrapes, Shepherd's Needle, Love-in-a-Mist. Bee Orchid and the Almaracensis sub species, were newly up, whilst Yellow Bee Orchid and Naked Man Orchid were past their best. Unfortunately, our stop was brief and undoubtedly there are more treasures to be found in this unusual limestone habitat.
We arrived at the Portilla at 20:15 and there was still a good 90 minutes of light ahead of us. A Black Stork went over and then we picked up an Otter feeding on the river edge giving us terrific prolonged views of it hunting. Spanish Imperial Eagle soared overhead and the Eagle Owl called intermittently.
21:00hrs and the tension was rising, the 20 or 25 people that had gathered this evening coalesced when a flicker of movement suggested that the Owl was on the move. Despite everyone looking at more or less the same part of the hillside where the shadow appeared to head for, a good 20 minutes had passed before Rich (with a little help from an Egyptian Vulture) isolated it. Perched side on; with about half its body showing, it sat on the edge of the cliff face just below a tree with roosting Vultures. Intermittently it turned towards us showing its amber orange eyes and ear tufts. After about 10-15 minutes the Eagle Owl flew eastwards up the river and landed in a distant tree. A grande finale to an excellent day. We departed in the twilight and our next stop produced a small family party of Roe Deer; an Iberian Hare jinxed its way along the road in the headlight and a Hedgehog took care to stay in its own lane on the main road to Trujillo. Tired but content we arrived back at the hotel at 23:15 hours ready for our beds.
Day 7 (11th May)
Our last full day in Extremadura and Eric routinely took his morning off. We headed towards Santa Marta de Magasca in search of more steppe birds. A European Nightjar was put up from the side of the road. We saw some fine Great Bustards with their elegant whiskers and displaying Little Bustard. A Golden Eagle screeched through just below eyelevel sending Mallards into pandemonium. Calandra Larks displayed defiantly.
We headed back for breakfast and then towards Campo Lugar. A Little Owl perched on a pile of stones, a pair of Black eared Wheatears showed well, a female Great Bustard neck high in the grass strolled by and a male Little Bustard gave a half hearted display.
Montagu's Harriers moved around, and a few Gull billed Terns appeared to be patrolling the ploughed fields. A European Golden Plover shared a ploughed field with a pair of Stone Curlew.
We moved on to Sierra Brava where a few distant Gull billed Terns were the only notable species.
Heading towards Fernando V we saw a roadside Roller. Last years flooded field was now without water and we headed towards the 'Silver pipe' picking up 10 Collared Pratincoles, 10 Bee-eaters and a small group of Red Avadavats.
Once again a day in Sierra Villeuercas was abandoned because of ominous clouds in that vicinity. We headed in to the sunshine at Arroyocampo instead. More of the same waterbirds were seen with Little Tern and Night Heron putting in an appearance and Savi's Warber singing unusually distantly, the wrong side of the heat haze.
One last site for Black Wheatear drew a blank but Joyce's belated birthday present of a Honey Buzzard put in an unexpected appearance.
The early evening was spent sipping coffee in the town square at Trujillo, prior to heading back to our hotel for dinner. After dinner a couple of Red necked Nightjars and Scops Owls called from behind the hotel but despite a small search party no night birds appeared.
Day 8 (12th May)
A civilized 07:15 departure from Vina las Torres put us in good time for our flight home. We were escorted off the premises by a Hoopoe; Bee-eaters, Golden Oriole and even a displaying Lesser Kestrel put in a show on the trip to Madrid! We avoided any volcanic hiccups and smoothly but regrettably departed from a successful trip highlighted by outstanding views of many Spanish specialty birds of the Steppes and High Mountains. We saw a respectable 146 species despite having half as many eyes 'on the deck' as usual. 19 species of raptors matched last years total but arguably the quality of the views and the actual species seen this year surpassed all the previous trips we have had to date. Amazingly we managed 10 pecies of orchid on this trip.
Undoubtedly the good natured enthusiasm of this year's group contributed highly to its success as well as making our job a real pleasure. Pam and I are extremely grateful to them for their excellent company and relaxed attitude which made the trip an unqualified success.
See http://www.naturetrek.co.uk/wildlife-holidays-in-europe/country.asp?ID=36
for more details.
Common Name Scientific Name
1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
2 Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
3 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus
4 Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
5 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
6 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
7 Little Egret Egretta garzetta
8 Great White Egret Egretta alba
9 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
10 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
11 Black Stork Ciconia nigra
12 White Stork Ciconia ciconia
13 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
14 Gadwall Anas strepera
14 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
16 Black Kite Milvus migrans
17 Red Kite Milvus milvus
18 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
19 Black Vulture Aegypius monachus
20 Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus
21 Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
22 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
23 Goshawk Accipiter gentilis
24 Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus
25 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
26 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos
27 Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca (adalberti)
28 Bonelli's Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus
29 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
30 Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
31 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
32 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
33 Hobby Falco subbuteo
34 Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
35 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix
36 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
37 Coot Fulica atra
38 Purple Swamp-hen Porphyrio porphyrio
39 Great Bustard Otis tarda
40 Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax
41 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
42 Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus
43 European Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria
44 Little ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
45 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
46 Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
47 Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica
48 Little Tern Sternula albifrons
49 Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis
50 Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus
51 Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon Columba livia
52 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
53 Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
54 Cuckoo Cuculus canorus
55 Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus
56 Red necked Nightjar Caprimulgus ruficollis
57 Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
58 Eagle Owl Bubo bubo
59 Little Owl Athene noctua
60 Scops Owl Otus scops
61 Alpine Swift Apus melba
62 Common Swift Apus apus
63 Bee-eater Merops apiaster
64 Roller oracias garrulus
65 Hoopoe Upupa epops
66 Green Woodpecker Picus viridis
67 Great-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopus major
68 Woodlark Lullula arborea
69 Skylark Alauda arvensis
70 Crested Lark Galerida cristata
71 Thekla Lark Galerida theklae
72 Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla
73 Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra
74 Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
75 Sand Martin Riparia riparia
76 Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
77 Swallow Hirundo rustica
78 House Martin Delichon urbica
79 Water Pipit Angthus spinoletta
80 White Wagtail Motacilla alba
81 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
82 Yellow (Iberian) Wagtail Motacilla flava iberiae
83 Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
84 Dunnock Prunella modularis
85 Robin Erithacus rubecula
86 Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos
87 Bluethroat Luscinia svecica
88 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
89 Stonechat Saxicola torquata
90 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
91 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
92 Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis
93 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
94 Blackbird Turdus merula
95 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus
96 Savi's Warbler Locustrella luscinioides
97 Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis
98 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti
99 Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus
100 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus
101 Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta
102 Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans
103 Whitethroat Sylvia communis
104 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
105 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
106 Western Bonelli’s Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli
107 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
108 Goldcrest Regulus regulus
109 Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus
110 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
111 Iberian Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca iberiae
112 Crested Tit Parus cristatus
113 Blue Tit Parus caeruleus
114 Great Tit Parus major
115 Coal Tit Parus ater
116 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
117 Nuthatch Sitta europaea
118 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla
119 Iberian Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis
120 Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
121 Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
122 Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus
123 Jay Garrulus glandarius
124 Magpie Pica pica
125 Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cyana
126 Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
127 Jackdaw Corvus monedula
128 Raven Corvus corax
129 Carrion Crow Corvus corone
130 House Sparrow Passer domesticus
131 Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
132 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
133 Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia
134 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
135 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes
136 Crossbill Loxia curvirostra
137 Serin Serinus serinus
138 Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
139 Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
140 Linnet Acanthis cannabina
141 Citril Finch Carduelis citrenella
142 Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra
143 Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana
144 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus
145 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia
146 Red Avadavat