Introduction
As the title of this report suggests this Mindo Bird Tours trip was a great success. Seeing both species of umbrellabird, namely Amazonian Umbrellabird and Long-wattled Umbrellabird, on a single trip is memorable. The many diverse regions that we travelled include High Andes, Amazon foothills, Tumbes, Marañon and Chocó. The route was specially designed to pick up all the southern Ecuador specialties within a single tour. Just to mention a few of the southern specialties that we recorded: Blackish-headed Spinetail, Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner, Jocotoco Antpitta, Bearded Guan, Gray-headed Antbird, Jelski’s Chat-tyrant, Black-crested Tit-tyrant, Black-and-white Tanager, Ochre-bellied Dove, Watkins’s Antpitta, Tit-like Dacnis, El Oro Parakeet, El Oro Tapaculo. Luck was on our side as we had a good number of rare birds: Pale-headed Brush-finch, Gray-capped Cuckoo, Lanceolated Monklet, Foothill Elaenia , Fulvous-breasted Flatbill , Spangled Coquette, Coppery-chested Jacamar, Swallow-tailed Nightjar, Crimson-bellied Woodpecker, Red-rumped Bush-tyrant, Black-faced Ibis to name but a few. Birds seen that are not considered that rare but o so good: Andean Condor, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Aplomado Falcon, White-capped Dipper, Torrent Duck, Wire-crested Thorntail, Elegant Crescentchest and many more!
Tour itinerary
30 Jan - Catamayo to Jorupe, Urraca Lodge
31 Jan - Jorupe, Urraca Lodge
1 Feb - Sozoranga, Utuana (bosque de Hanne) & Jorupe, Urraca Lodge
2 Feb - Jorupe, Urraca Lodge to Zamora & Copalinga Lodge
3 Feb - Podocarpus N.P. sector Rio Bombuscaro & Copalinga Lodge
4 Feb - Copalinga Lodge to Reserva Tapichalaca
5 Feb - Reserva Tapichalaca
6 Feb - Reserva Tapichalaca & Valladolid (Marañon valley)
7 Feb - Reserva Tapichalaca to Buenaventura, El Oro
8 Feb - Buenaventura, El Oro
9 Feb - Buenaventura, El Oro to Santa Izabel
10 Feb - Reserva Yunguilla & Cuenca
11 Feb - Podocarpus N.P. sector El Cajas
12 Feb - Vulcan Antisana
Day-by-day reports
30 Jan - Catamayo to Jorupe, Urraca Lodge
The birding started while we were having a buffet breakfast in Catamayo. Fasciated Wrens, Pacific Parrotlets and an Amazilia Hummingbird were showing themselves well in the garden of the restaurant. It was a long drive to Jorupe so we stopped several times on the way for some roadside birding. Species we picked up on the way included Croaking Ground-dove, Red-masked Parakeet, Green Kingfisher (single one this trip), Long-tailed Mockingbird, Pacific Elaenia and a nice Baird’s Flycatcher. As we got closer to Jorupe the habitat and the roadside birding started to get better and better. We watched a Great Black-hawk perched in a tree in front of us, while we listened to the typical calls of our first Pale-browed Tinamous. A pair of Collared Antshrike showed well, as did Rufous-browed Peppershrike and Gray-and-gold Warbler a little later. We had good views of Scarlet-backed Woodpecker and some of us saw our first Ecuadorian Piculet. We arrived in the afternoon at Urraca Lodge. “Urraca” is the local name for Jay and it was nice to see the White-tailed Jay around the lodge as we settled in. After dinner we tried to see the West-Peruvian Screech-owl which was calling from nearby the cabañas but we weren’t able to locate it precisely.
31 Jan - Jorupe, Urraca Lodge
Urraca Lodge is a great place to stay. The accommodation is comfortable, the staff is very well organized plus the birding is superb: our compliments to Foundation Jocotoco in protecting and managing this important Tumbesian habitat. In the early morning we started birding along the road going downhill. This turned out to be great as many species where nesting along the way down. Dawn chorus (Plumbeous-backed Thrush, Streaked Saltator, Pale-browed Tinamou and Watkins’s Antpitta vocally very abundant) and bird activity were good. A pair of Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner was responsive to our tape, but rather difficult to see. The Black-striped Sparrow was showing itself much easier when it started singing in the scrub next to the track. Sue spotted an adult Laughing Falcon which showed itself very well. We saw both White-egded Oriole and Yellow-tailed Oriole as we continued further down. One of the specialties, the Blackish-headed Spinetail, was singing from inside the scrub. It took as a little time but we all got the see the bird well. At the same spot we watched other specialties like a Tumbesian Tyrannulet and a Speckle-breasted Wren. A Blue-crowned Motmot wasnesting in the bank along the road and we watched it carefully when it flew back into the cavity. Close to the entrance gate we saw up to three Ecuadorian Piculets. At the same spot a singing Red-billed Scythebill kept us busy. We left the road and walked back up on a trail inside the forest. A pair of Ecuadorian Trogons was nesting and showed itself well. The nest, a cavity, was located inside a termite nest. Later, we found more trogons nesting in the same way, inside a termite nest. Surprisingly, the breeding ecology of this species has yet not been described according to Harold Greeney (the leading biologist in studying nesting ecology of birds in Ecuador). We flushed two Pauraques from the trail. The adult landed in front of us and started clapping its wings on the ground. It was trying to distract us from its chick nearby, a spectacular show that certainly worked! We had good views of both Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner and Henna-hooded Foliage just before we got back at the lodge. After a good lunch we followed the road going up. In a single tree we found the nests of One-colored Becard, Black-and-white Becard and Slaty Becard. All three species had a similar type of nest: a clump of dry grass hanging on an outer branch in the top of the tree. A little further up we found a second nest of Slaty Becard which was guarded by the female-only. We heard an Ochre-bellied Dove calling from inside the forest and a Watkins’s Antpitta sounded close by. We were searching for the rare Gray-capped Cuckoo that was reported being seen a week ago. At the spot there was no sign of the cuckoo but we did enjoy a group of Gray-cheeked Parakeets that was perched nicely in front of us at eyelevel. Another Watkins’s Antpitta started singing next to us. With the help of a little playback the bird came slowly towards us and eventually showed itself. What a spectacular bird! On our way back we suddenly heard the call of the Gray-capped Cuckoo! We played the tape and the bird came in but very secretively. After a while most of us got to see this rare bird. What a bonus to finish off the day with!
1 Feb - Sozoranga, Utuana (bosque de Hanne) & Jorupe, Urraca Lodge
In the morning we went to the Utuana reserve which was about a 1.5hour drive eastwards of Jorupe. The reserve, also named “Bosque de Hanne”, protects some of the final parcels of temperate forest in this zone and holds some special species of birds. On the way up we passed the village of Sozoranga where we watched a colony of Chestnut-collared Swallows at the church. This local species of swallow nests here in good numbers (>100) and was certainly worth the stop. Once at Utuana it started to get chilly and we prepared us for the hike into the forest. A soaring Plain-breasted Hawk was noticed by Rick and our first Rainbow Starfrontlet hovered in front of us above the trail. The Jelski’s Chat-tyrant was the first specialty we encountered and a pair showed well at the start of the forest. Inside the forest we watched the hummingbird feeders which were attended by Rainbow Starfrontlets, Purple-throated Sunangels and Speckled Hummingbirds. At the scrubby part we watched a nicely perched Red-crested Cotinga and a calling Line-cheeked Spinetail kept us busy for a while. The bird activity inside the forest was low and a calling White-throated Quail-dove and a Black-capped Tyrannulet were one of the few species recorded. There was no sign of the rare Gray-headed Antbird and it seemed that all the bamboo (best habitat for the species) had seeded and died out for some kind of major regeneration event. We did hear the Black-crested Tit-tyrant a few times and some of us were lucky to glimpse this species. On our way back we stopped along the main road where still some bamboo was left “alive”. Bird activity at this spot was good and we had a flock of Rufous-chested Tanangers, Line-cheeked Spinetail and Silver-backed Tanagers right in front of us. We also watched a pair of Chapman’s Antshrike a beautiful species that showed well. A little later Sharon spotted a bird with a large red bill. It turned out to be the spectacular Black-cowled Saltator! Suddenly, the even rarer Gray-headed Antbird started singing in the bamboo next to us. Some of us were lucky and glimpsed the bird as it quickly and mysteriously disappeared inside the lower growth. Further down we spotted a Savanna Hawk on the wire and stopped at the river to check for Comb Duck. The bridge is a good place for this species but we weren’t lucky this time. Rick did see a Killdeer flying away upstream, a good species for Ecuador!
2 Feb - Jorupe, Urraca Lodge to Zamora & Copalinga Lodge
We did a little birding around Urraca lodge before we left for Zamora. Finally, during breakfast, we all managed to see the Long-billed Starthroat which had been coming to the flowers and feeder irregularly. Rufous-necked Wood-rails were calling from the forest beneath us. A pair of Black-and-white Tanager was calling next to the cabañas but we did not manage to locate the birds. We went back to the river to check for Comb Duck but again no sign of the ducks. We made a few stops during the long drive to Zamora. A stop at a dry canyon got us some great views of a pair of Tawny-crowned Pygmy-tyrant. In the same area we watched Baird’s Flycatchers, Long-tailed Mockingbirds and Tropical Gnatcatchers. Late afternoon in light rain we birded the old Loja-Zamora road. One of the first birds we saw was a MEGA in the form of a singing Lanceolated Monklet! The bird showed very well and we managed to get some pictures too! A few “before-bed-time” flocks came by rapidly and species as Spotted Tanager, Orange-eared Tanager and Crested Oropendula were picked out as new ones for the trip. A nice bonus was a Fascinated Tiger-heron that perched on the rocks at the spectacular fast flowing river. About a kilometer before Copalinga Lodge the road was blocked by a landslide. After a little improvising we safely arrived at the lodge just before dark!
3 Feb - Podocarpus N.P. sector Rio Bombuscaro & Copalinga Lodge
In the early morning we watched the purple lavender flowers for hummingbirds which are found at the parking place next to the dining hall. The most abundant species at the flowers were Sparkling Violetear, Violet-headed Hummingbird and Glittering-throated Emerald. The tiny Spangled Coquette and the spectacular male Wire-crested Thorntail came to feed carefully as they were often chased away by the larger species. White-bellied Woodstar and Golden-tailed Sapphire also came in on a regular basis. A single Speckled Hummingbird was kind of a “vagrant” at Copalinga with only a few records. This species is normally found at higher altitudes but some hummingbirds wander down to lower elevations as did a White-bellied Woodstar and a Chestnut-breasted Coronet. On the way to Rio Bombuscaro we saw a few Gray-fronted Doves on the track. A Tawny-throated Leaftosser was one of the first birds we heard. A Plain-backed Antpitta sang close by but we did not get the bird into view. A Coppery-chested Jacamar was calling from uphill. The bird came in as we played the tape and we got excellent views of this target species. A big black bird flew over and landed right in front of us. A stunning male Amazonian Umbrellabird! The bird sat on a bare branch all in the open and we got some fantastic views of this much wanted cotinga! Inside the forest we run into a few species like Plain Antvireo, Inca Jays and Orange-crested Flycatcher. A nice flock kept us busy and we picked up Lafresnaye’s Piculet, Streaked Xenops, Gray-mantled Wren, Ashy-throated Bush-tanager and the scarce Fulvous-breasted Flatbill. At the campsite area we first heard the Foothill Elaenia calling from the mixed flock. As we followed the flock we watched two Foothill Elaenias, presumably a pair, while foraging. The campsite area is a good spot for this recently described species. On the way back we spotted a Highland Motmot with broken rackets and a Green-fronted Lancebill. The White-capped Dipper was a species high on our list. As predicted we found a nice one foraging at the small waterfall along the road! Unexpected was the finding of a male Torrent Duck that sat nicely on a big rock in the middle of the river. According to Catherine, the owner of Copalinga, it had been more than two years ago that she had seen this species here! A little later we found our second Fasciated Tiger-heron of the trip. After lunch we first birded from the dining hall with a cup of coffee. The hummingbird feeders attracted a few new species including Green Hermit, Fork-tailed Woodnymph and Violet-fronted Brilliant. At the banana feeders we watched Golden Tanagers, Silver-beaked Tanagers, Grayish Saltators, Orange-billed Sparrow and the shy Speckled Chacalacas. Birds that we found in the immediate area included Lined Antshrike, Mottle-backed Elaenia, Olive-chested Flycatcher, Short-crested Flycatcher, Olivaceous Greenlet, Guira Tanager, Paradise Tanagers, Golden-collared Honeycreeper and Magpie Tanagers. We did a short afternoon walk on the orange trail at the backside of the lodge. Activity was low but we did hear a Short-tailed Antthrush singing. Our highlight of the walk was an Ecuadorian Tyrannulet that perched and sang right in front of us.
4 Feb - Copalinga Lodge to Reserva Tapichalaca
We birded around the lodge in the morning seeing many of the species we had seen the day before. The Spangled Coquette and Wire-crested Thorntail were both present at the lavender flowers while the Speckled Chacalacas and some tanagers were visiting the banana feeders. New birds for the trip included nice views of a responsive Golden-winged Tody-flycatcher and a cooperative Dark-breasted Spinetail. The absolute highlight was a splendid male Andean Cock-of-the-Rock that perched in the Cecropia tree right in front of us. We all jumped up from the dining table leaving the delicious breakfast totally behind us! The immature bird showed an interesting bright and mottled plumage and sat in the tree for a long time. After breakfast we left for the Old Loja-Zamora road to bird at a bit higher elevation. At the river we spotted again, probably the same, male Torrent Duck which seemed to have moved down stream significantly. A group of White-banded Swallows was new for the list. The birding at the old road was a bit slow but we did add some new species from a flock. Birds that we encountered were two Ecuadorian Tyrannulets, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Yellow-bellied Tanager, Green-and-gold Tanager, Golden-eared Tanager, Bay-headed Tanager, Lafresnaye’s Piculet, Ash-browed Spinetail, Olivaceous Greenlet and Inca Jays. We left for Tapichalaca around noon and during the drive we stopped for birding at the higher part of Podocarpus N.P. sector Sabanilla. Here we encountered a very cooperative mixed-species flock with species like Pearled Treerunner, Spectacled Whitestart, Blue-backed Conebill, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager, Lacrimose Mountain-tanager and Gray-hooded Bush-tanager. The ultra-blue Golden-crowned Tanager was one of the most spectacular species that participated in the flock. As we arrived late afternoon at the Tapichalaca lodge we heard White-capped Tanager calling from the valley beneath us.
5 Feb - Reserva Tapichalaca
After early breakfast we birded along the main road till 8:00 (eight o’clock is Jocotoco feeding time!). The vulnerable Golden-plumed Parakeets were abundant this time off year and we saw few flocks (>20) flying over, especially in the morning and afternoon. Scaly-naped Amazons were also flying over at a regular basis and we were lucky to see a flock of Barred Parakeets. A Chusquea Tapaculo was singing very loudly and surprisingly the bird perched and sang a few times right in the open! Saffron-crowned Tanager and Beryl-spangled Tanager were new tanagers that we added to the trip list. A Plain-breasted Hawk was perched on a dead snag drying its feathers. As always it had been very wet and foggy weather at Tapichalaca. We were lucky that the weather cleared up as we started the walk to the Jocotoco’s. During the walk we picked up some nice species such as Streaked Tuftedcheek, Barred Becard and Orange-banded Flycatcher. The seasonal Slaty Finch was singing abundantly and we managed to get some into view. White-throated Quail-doves were showing themselves nicely in front of the hide. At the feeding place an immature Jocotoco Antpitta was the first to come in on the worms. A little later no less then two adult Jocotoco Antpittas came in to join the party! After filling their beaks with worms the adults quickly went off as they were clearly feeding a nestling! Later we met Harold Greeney at the lodge and he told us that they were studying the nest of the pair. A Chestnut-naped Antpitta was singing from beneath but did not come to the feeder as the Jocotoco pair had been very aggressive lately. On the way back we encountered an exciting flock with Golden-crowned Tanager, Black-capped Hemispingus, Black-throated Tody-tyrant, Black-capped Tyrannulet, Slaty Finch, Orange-banded Flycatcher and a nice singing Plushcap! A skulky Yellow-billed Cacique and a secretive Rufous Antpitta were seen by some of us, whereas the beautiful Barred Fruiteater showed itself very well. After lunch we watched the hummingbird feeders at the lodge. Species that we saw at the feeders included Collared Inca, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Flame-throated Sunangel, White-bellied Woodstar, Long-tailed Sylph, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Chestnut-breasted Coronet and Speckled Hummingbird. A leucistic hummingbird that came irregularly to the feeders turned out to be a Flame-throated Sunangel. It was cloudy and raining so we decided to drive down to a lower elevation in the hope to find some better weather conditions. It cleared up just before Valladolid where we picked up a few good birds. A Fasciated tiger-heron was the first bird we saw. A group of very noisy White-eyed Parakeets landed in front of us and showed well. Emerald Toucanet and Loja Tyrannulet were also added to the list. On the way back we spotted two of the rare Crimson-bellied Woodpeckers. The birds where uniform bright red in plumage, unlike depicted in the field guides: a yet “undescribed” subspecies? Late afternoon back at the lodge we walked the road up. A Glowing Puffleg showed well while foraging on the flowers along the road. A mixed-species flock included Turquoise Jays, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager, Lacrimose Mountain-tanager, Pale-naped Brush-finch and Rufous-naped Brush-finch. Just before dinner we went outside to look for night birds. It was immediately a success as we watched a female Swallow-tailed Nightjar perched a few meters in front of us! Great day!
6 Feb - Reserva Tapichalaca & Valladolid (Maranon valley)
The weather was similar to the day before so we took about the same birding route trying to avoid the clouds. Bird activity was rather slow and we did not add as many new species as the day before. Our highlight at Valladolid was the Marañon Thrush, a species endemic to the Marañon region and in Ecuador only found in this valley. We had lunch under a nice shelter as it started to poor rain! We drove back to higher elevations where it turned out to be less rainy. Slaty-backed Chat-tyrant and Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant were seen well. Some of us took a long tough hike through the forest which produced more mud than birds! At the end of the trail we were kindly rewarded by three Bearded Guans that showed very well! This much wanted species has a vulnerble status plus a very restricted range. That was certainly worth the hike! We watched the Golden-plumed Parakeets entering their nest boxes and higher up we saw a flock of Black-headed Hemispingus.
7 Feb - Reserva Tapichalaca to Buenaventura, El Oro
In the morning it was pouring rain at Tapichalaca so we decided to pack and leave after breakfast. It was a long journey to the Umbrellabird-lodge so an early start worked out well. We had a good birding stop at a dry valley about 10km before the village of Vilcabamba. Elegant Crescentchests were singing from a few places and we tried to get the birds into view. At a certain scrubby bush the bird turned out to be very cooperative and showed fantastically well. A stunning colorful bird! A Pacific Pygmy-owl was perched at eye-level giving us some excellent views. We heard a Giant Hummingbird but could not locate the bird. Other birds that were seen in the area include Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Fasciated Wren, Long-tailed Mockingbird and Southern Yellow Grosbeak. Further on the way to Buenaventura we picked up a few species like Chiguanco Thrush and White-capped Dipper. We arrived in the afternoon at the entrance road to the lodge but the track turned out to be too muddy for our tour bus. After a bit of improvising and with help from the lodge we managed to settle in before it started to get dark.
8 Feb - Buenaventura, El Oro
We left early in the morning in order to be on time at the “umbrellabird lek”. Birds heard during the walk down included species like Olive-striped Flycatcher, Rufous Motmot and Rufous-fronted Wood-quail. We spotted our first Long-wattled Umbrellabird at the start of the trail. Unfortunately, it was only seen by a few of us as it quickly disappeared into the forest. Lower down the trail we clearly heard a deep “mist horn” call coming from the canopy above us. A long black curling object was spotted right in front of us that looked like a monkey-tail at first glance. It turned out to be the meter long wattle of an adult male Long-wattled Umbrellabird! The spectacular bird sat there for a while and called once before it flew off. A little further down we found another male at almost eye-height that showed even better. It sat quietly on a bare branch and watched us, but moved its wattle as it called right in our faces, whooooomph! Magnificent! On the way back we saw a good number of new species. Violet-tailed Sylph and Wedge-billed Hummingbird were two new species of hummers seen in the forest while a small mixed flock contained species like Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Streaked Xenops, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper and Western Slaty Antshrike. New tanagers that we added to the list where Fawn-breasted Tanager and Silver-throated Tanager. We heard the remarkable sound of the Club-winged Manakin and after a while we even managed to locate the displaying male. The species has a spectacular courtship display whereby the sound is made exclusively by the wings. Researchers found out that the sound is produced by rubbing a stiffened wing-feather tip across seven ridges set into the thickened shaft (club-wing) of the adjacent feather, wow! White-bearded Manakins were lekking around as well. A pair of Song Wrens showed well after little use of playback. Another scarce bird that was seen and heard well was a Brownish Twistwing next to the track at eye-level. Plumbeous Kites were perched in the top of the trees while a few Red-masked Parakeets flew over. We came a little late for breakfast but the birds seen were absolutely worth it! Next, we watched the hummingbird feeders. The feeders at the Umbrellabird Lodge are probably the most spectacular in Ecuador as they are permanently crowded with massive numbers of hummingbirds. We were told that a “clever” Cattle Egret came in one day and started to forage on the hummingbirds from the terrace! Targets for Buenaventura were the Emerald-bellied Woodnymph, Violet-bellied Hummingbird and Baron’s Hermit. Other species seen that are somewhat more widespread included White-necked Jacobin, Brown Violetear, Green Thorntail, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Andean Emerald, Green-crowned Brilliant and Long-billed Starthroat. After feeder action and some photographing we drove to the higher part of the reserve to search for the two local El Oro endemics. The Endangered El Oro Parakeet was high on our list and our local guide Leo had a stake out of a nesting site. On the way up we checked the river and YES, we saw a very showy pair of Torrent Tyrannulets! Most of us “dipped” the species at Valladolid, so we were happy to see the species well. In order to get to the nest boxes of the parakeets we had to walk up a steep pasture and in the mean while Leo chased away the cattle. As we waited for the parakeets to arrive a very showy male Collared Trogon (photo) came in on our whistle. Suddenly, we heard Leo calling from a little hill nearby. He was keeping an eye on another nest box and he had heard the birds flying in. As we arrived at the spot we got two El Oro Parakeets into view. One was perched on a dead snag and the other stuck his head out of the nest box. We were even luckier when the family group of four birds flew out in our direction and landed in a nearby tree at eye-level! This small parakeet is not only rare and extremely local but also shows a very interesting breeding ecology. The nest boxes are occupied by steady family groups (ranging from 3-8 individuals) that show cooperative breeding. After ticking the first El Oro endemic successfully our next plan was to find the rare El Oro Tapaculo. This species can be rather hard to find as they are not that vocal as most other tapaculo species. We walked the trail at the higher part of the reserve (the best habitat for the tapaculo) and added a few nice species like Three-banded Warbler, Loja Tyrannulet, Golden-winged Manakin and Common Bush-tanager (westslope locality for the species!). We played the tape of the tapaculo at several spots but did not get any response. A loud call was given by a Grey-backed Hawk that flew over our heads. At a certain moment an El Oro Tapaculo (also called Ecuadorian Tapaculo as it is endemic to the country) started singing in the forest patch above us (recording of the bird can be found on www.xeno-canto.org). The bird did not come down but we were happy to have heard this endemic as the call is most important regarding species identification (most tapaculos are not really distinguishable by plumage anyway!). On our way back we spotted our fifth Fasciated Tiger-heron, a species that almost became a nuisance this trip! A group of Chestnut-mandibled Toucans showed fantastically well in a bare tree in the lower part of the reserve. Some of us did an afternoon hike that produced three Crested Guans, while others stayed at the lodge and spotted the Rufous-headed Chacalaca.
9 Feb - Buenaventura, El Oro to Santa Izabel
It was raining all morning. A few of us gave it a try and did a walk into the forest. For most of the time the only movements we saw were the leaves shaking from the dripping water. A Chestnut-backed Antbird was seen as well as the Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher that had built its nest. A Buff-rumped Warbler was foraging in front of us along the wet trail. The distinct song of the Thrush-like Schiffornis had drawn our attention but the bird seemed not to react on playback. Species that were seen back at the lodge where Rufous-headed Chacalaca and Black-striped Sparrow. In the lower part of the reserve we watched a few Chestnut-mandibled Toucans before we continued our drive to Santa Izabel. Once we were settled at the hotel we prepared ourselves for a night hike at Reserva Yunguilla. The rare Buff-fronted Owl has been heard and seen occasionally at the reserve so we gave it a try. After a long hike we reached the forest patch where the owl was seen before. We were lucky on one hand but unlucky on the other hand because a Mottled Owl was calling loudly. As the small Buff-fronted Owl is known to avoid larger species of owl (it may get eaten!) there was a little chance left for us to get it. We did get a nice view of the Mottled Owl in the spotlight as it flew over our heads.
10 Feb - Reserva Yunguilla & Cuenca
The Jocotoco reserve Yunguilla was established to protect the Critically Endangered Pale-headed Brush-finch. The species had not been recorded for decades and was listed as possibly extinct, until the re-discovery of a very small population at Yunguilla in 1998. The species is only found in this small valley and although the area is protected, natural occurring fires put the habitat at high risk. Thus, seeing this ultra rare bird was high priority. After a 30min walk on the trail we saw a single bird moving on a dead snag in front of us. It was a Pale-headed Brush-finch! Everybody had seen the bird well, pfffff, the pressure was off! We continued the birding more relaxed as the target was in the pocket. Other birds that were seen along the trail were Rufous-chested Tanager, Line-cheeked Spinetail, Highland Hepatic Tanager, Southern Yellow Grosbeak, Stripe-headed Brush-finch, Hooded Siskin and Loja Hummingbird. We heard the rare brush-finch at two other spots but it was not seen again. Chestnut-crowned Antpittas were calling from the dense vegetation and a Striped Cuckoo was seen just before we returned at the bus. Croaking Ground-dove, Vermillion Flycatcher and Black-lored Yellowthroat were a few species that were seen in the garden at the hotel. In the afternoon we went to the pleasant old city centre of Cuenca for some sightseeing.
11 Feb - Podocarpus N.P. sector El Cajas
El Cajas is a great destination for high altitude “paramo” birding. The paramo landscape is beautiful with small lagoons, patches of Polylepis forest and sloping grasslands. Bird wise the Polylepis patches are most interesting as they can hold some specialists like Giant Conebill and Tit-like Dacnis. Our first stop was at a small lake where we saw Andean Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail and Andean Ruddy-duck. The bushes around the lake were very “birdy” and soon we got our first pair of Tit-like Dacnis. This stunning cobalt-blue species proved to be common at this spot as we watched several different pairs. Both Stout-billed Cinclodes and Bar-winged Cinclodes were picked up foraging along the water edge. Other species that we found at the bushes were Andean Tit-spinetail, Brown-backed Chat-tyrant and Plumbeous Sierra-finch. A nice male Ecuadorian Hillstar was foraging on the flowers while a Blue-mantled Thornbill preferred to forage on the ground. Our second stop was at a larger Polylepis patch. A Tawny Antpitta was very cooperative and seemed almost “tamed” as it showed itself for minute’s long right in the open at few feet distance! A big rufous bird flew up from the ground and perched on a bare snag. It turned out to be the rare Red-rumped Bush-tyrant! Later on we saw at least another three individuals, so the species did not seem that rare at all! A flock of Pearled Treerunners and a Giant Conebill was a nice finishing touch before we left for lunch.
12 Feb - Vulcan Antisana
Our last day birding was at another great paramo location but with a different set of bird species. Especially big birds like raptors can be numerous on the plains around the magnificent snowcapped Antisana volcano. On the way up we picked up some species that we also had seen at El Cajas like Plumbeous Sierra-finch, Black-billed Shrike-tyrant and Paramo Ground-tyrant. Black-chested Buzzard-eagle, Black-winged Ground-doves and Black-tailed Trainbearer were new additions to the list. As we arrived at the highland plains the Carunculated Caracaras started to get numerous. We watched several different ages and plumages of this pretty species from close distance. Suddenly, we spotted two gigantic birds flying in our direction. They turned out to be two juvenile Andean Condors! It got even better when the two were joined by two adults. We started to get all excited as the four plane-sized birds were flying right towards us. A minute later the group of condors was soaring right above of us almost at touching distance. Some of us came with the idea to lie down on the ground and pretended to be carrion. It seemed to work as the birds really checked us out! Ten meters away from an Andean Condor: truly a birding experience of a lifetime! The birds dropped down in the valley beneath us and landed on the ground. A dead calf was what had attracted them! We had some splendid views through the scope of both juvenile and adult birds feeding on the carcass. After the condor event we continued the tour to search for the rare Black-faced Ibis. Once at the crossroad we encountered no less than thirty-eight Black-faced Ibises on the plain: truly a record number! Other species that we picked up on the plains were Andean Gull, Andean Lapwing, Stout-billed Cinclodes and Paramo Pipit. We drove to Laguna Mica to look for Silvery Grebes. We found the species at the eastern side of the lake together with other waterfowl like Andean Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Andean coot and wintering Blue-winged Teal. After a delicious lunch at the hacienda we saw a stunning Aplomado Falcon on our way back to Quito.
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank the following people for making our trip a success: The staff at Urracca Lodge, especially manager and guide Leo, the staff at Tapichalaca and Franco for showing us the Jocotoco’s, the staff at Umbrellabird Lodge and Leo for his excellent guiding, Enriques for his help during the search for the Pale-headed Brush-finch, Catherine for all her help and birding at Copalinga and Oscar for the safe and pleasant driving during the tour.
Dušan M. Brinkhuizen WWW.AVESECUADOR.COM
The taxonomy of this list follows: Ridgely, R.S. & Greenfield, P.J. (2006). Aves del Ecuador, Vol I. Quito: Colibri Digital
Little Tinamou
Pale-browed Tinamou
Torrent Duck
Andean Teal
Yellow-billed Pintail
Blue-winged Teal
Andean Ruddy Duck
Bearded Guan
Crested Guan
Rufous-headed Chachalaca
Speckled Chachalaca
Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail
Silvery Grebe
Neotropic Cormorant
Fasciated Tiger-Heron
Cattle Egret
Great Egret
Black-faced Ibis
Turkey Vulture
Black Vulture
Andean Condor
Swallow-tailed Kite
Plumbeous Kite
Plain-breasted Hawk
Barred Hawk
Gray-backed Hawk
Great Black-Hawk
Savanna Hawk
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle
Harris's Hawk
Roadside Hawk
Broad-winged Hawk
Short-tailed Hawk
Variable Hawk
Laughing Falcon
Collared Forest-Falcon
Crested Caracara
Carunculated Caracara
American Kestrel
Bat Falcon
Aplomado Falcon
Rufous-necked Wood-Rail
White-throated Crake
Common Gallinule
Andean Coot
Andean Lapwing
Killdeer
Spotted Sandpiper
Wattled Jacana
Andean Gull
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove
Croaking Ground-Dove
Black-winged Ground-Dove
Rock Pigeon
Band-tailed Pigeon
Pale-vented Pigeon
Plumbeous Pigeon
Eared Dove
White-tipped Dove
Gray-fronted Dove
Ochre-bellied Dove
White-throated Quail-Dove
Red-masked Parakeet
White-eyed Parakeet
Golden-plumed Parakeet
El Oro Parakeet
Barred Parakeet
Pacific Parrotlet
Gray-cheeked Parakeet
Red-billed Parrot
Bronze-winged Parrot
Scaly-naped Amazon
Squirrel Cuckoo
Gray-capped Cuckoo
Groove-billed Ani
Striped Cuckoo
West Peruvian Screech-Owl
Mottled Owl
Pacific Pygmy-Owl
Common Pauraque
Swallow-tailed Nightjar
Chestnut-collared Swift
White-collared Swift
Gray-rumped Swift
White-necked Jacobin
White-whiskered Hermit
Green Hermit
Baron's Hermit
Green-fronted Lancebill
Wedge-billed Hummingbird
Brown Violetear
Green Violetear
Sparkling Violetear
Amethyst-throated Sunangel
Flame-throated Sunangel
Purple-throated Sunangel
Wire-crested Thorntail
Green Thorntail
Spangled Coquette
Speckled Hummingbird
Long-tailed Sylph
Violet-tailed Sylph
Ecuadorian Hillstar
Black-tailed Trainbearer
Green-tailed Trainbearer
Blue-mantled Thornbill
Tyrian Metaltail
Glowing Puffleg
Collared Inca
Rainbow Starfrontlet
Chestnut-breasted Coronet
Fawn-breasted Brilliant
Green-crowned Brilliant
Violet-fronted Brilliant
Giant Hummingbird
Long-billed Starthroat
White-bellied Woodstar
Short-tailed Woodstar
Violet-headed Hummingbird
Emerald-bellied Woodnymph
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Amazilia Hummingbird
Loja Hummingbird
Andean Emerald
Glittering-throated Emerald
Golden-tailed Sapphire
Violet-bellied Hummingbird
Ecuadorian Trogon
Collared Trogon
Masked Trogon
Ringed Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Rufous Motmot
Highland Motmot
Blue-crowned Motmot
Coppery-chested Jacamar
Lanceolated Monklet
Red-headed Barbet
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan
Choco Toucan
Emerald Toucanet
Lafresnaye's Piculet
Ecuadorian Piculet
Smoky-brown Woodpecker
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker
Golden-olive Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Crimson-bellied Woodpecker
Tawny-throated Leaftosser
Stout-billed Cinclodes
Bar-winged Cinclodes
Pacific Hornero
Andean Tit-Spinetail
Azara's Spinetail
Dark-breasted Spinetail
Rufous Spinetail
Slaty Spinetail
Blackish-headed Spinetail
White-browed Spinetail
Ash-browed Spinetail
Line-cheeked Spinetail
Pearled Treerunner
Streaked Tuftedcheek
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner
Montane Foliage-gleaner
Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner
Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner
Streaked Xenops
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper
Spotted Woodcreeper
Streak-headed Woodcreeper
Montane Woodcreeper
Red-billed Scythebill
Chapman's Antshrike
Lined Antshrike
Collared Antshrike
Western Slaty-Antshrike
Plain Antvireo
Chestnut-backed Antbird
Immaculate Antbird
Gray-headed Antbird
Short-tailed Antthrush
Plain-backed Antpitta
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta
Watkins's Antpitta
Jocotoco Antpitta
Chestnut-naped Antpitta
Rufous Antpitta
Tawny Antpitta
Blackish Tapaculo
El Oro Tapaculo
Chusquea Tapaculo
Ocellated Tapaculo
Elegant Crescentchest
Black-capped Tyrannulet
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Foothill Elaenia
Pacific Elaenia
White-crested Elaenia
Mottle-backed Elaenia
Sierran Elaenia
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
White-tailed Tyrannulet
White-banded Tyrannulet
White-throated Tyrannulet
Black-crested Tit-Tyrant
Tufted Tit-Tyrant
Torrent Tyrannulet
Tumbesian Tyrannulet
Yellow Tyrannulet
Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant
Loja Tyrannulet
Golden-faced Tyrannulet
Ecuadorian Tyrannulet
Streak-necked Flycatcher
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Ornate Flycatcher
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant
Golden-winged Tody-Flycatcher
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Brownish Twistwing
Fulvous-breasted Flatbill
Yellow-olive Flatbill
Orange-crested Flycatcher
Orange-banded Flycatcher
Olive-chested Flycatcher
Bran-colored Flycatcher
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher
Cinnamon Flycatcher
Smoke-colored Pewee
Tumbes Pewee
Black Phoebe
Vermilion Flycatcher
Paramo Ground-Tyrant
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant
Jelski's Chat-Tyrant
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant
Piratic Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
Baird's Flycatcher
Streaked Flycatcher
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Short-crested Flycatcher
Sooty-crowned Flycatcher
Red-crested Cotinga
Green-and-black Fruiteater
Barred Fruiteater
Andean Cock-of-the-rock
Amazonian Umbrellabird
Long-wattled Umbrellabird
Golden-winged Manakin
Club-winged Manakin
White-bearded Manakin
Thrush-like Schiffornis
Barred Becard
Slaty Becard
Black-and-white Becard
One-colored Becard
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Brown-capped Vireo
Red-eyed Vireo
Olivaceous Greenlet
Lesser Greenlet
Turquoise Jay
White-tailed Jay
Inca Jay
Blue-and-white Swallow
Brown-bellied Swallow
White-banded Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Gray-breasted Martin
Chestnut-collared Swallow
Gray-mantled Wren
House Wren
Mountain Wren
Grass Wren
Fasciated Wren
Plain-tailed Wren
Speckle-breasted Wren
Bay Wren
Rufous Wren
White-breasted Wood-Wren
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren
Song Wren
Tropical Gnatcatcher
White-capped Dipper
Andean Solitaire
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush
Swainson's Thrush
Plumbeous-backed Thrush
Ecuadorian Thrush
Black-billed Thrush
Marañon Thrush
Great Thrush
Chiguanco Thrush
Glossy-black Thrush
White-necked Thrush
Long-tailed Mockingbird
Paramo Pipit
Magpie Tanager
Black-and-white Tanager
White-capped Tanager
Black-capped Hemispingus
Black-headed Hemispingus
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager
Rufous-chested Tanager
White-lined Tanager
Silver-beaked Tanager
Lemon-rumped Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
Blue-capped Tanager
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager
Grass-green Tanager
Golden-crowned Tanager
Fawn-breasted Tanager
Orange-eared Tanager
Golden-naped Tanager
Silver-backed Tanager
Blue-necked Tanager
Yellow-bellied Tanager
Spotted Tanager
Beryl-spangled Tanager
Paradise Tanager
Bay-headed Tanager
Golden-eared Tanager
Saffron-crowned Tanager
Flame-faced Tanager
Green-and-gold Tanager
Golden Tanager
Silver-throated Tanager
Blue Dacnis
Green Honeycreeper
Guira Tanager
Blue-backed Conebill
Capped Conebill
Giant Conebill
Tit-like Dacnis
Glossy Flowerpiercer
Black Flowerpiercer
White-sided Flowerpiercer
Bluish Flowerpiercer
Masked Flowerpiercer
Plushcap
Common Bush-Tanager
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager
Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager
Bananaquit
Dull-colored Grassquit
Slate-colored Grosbeak
Buff-throated Saltator
Grayish Saltator
Black-cowled Saltator
Streaked Saltator
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Yellow-browed Sparrow
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch
Slaty Finch
Saffron Finch
Blue-black Grassquit
Variable Seedeater
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Lesser Seed-Finch
Plain-colored Seedeater
Black-striped Sparrow
Orange-billed Sparrow
Black-capped Sparrow
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch
Stripe-headed Brush-Finch
Pale-naped Brush-Finch
Rufous-naped Brush-Finch
Pale-headed Brush-Finch
Highland Hepatic Tanager
Summer Tanager
Southern Yellow Grosbeak
Tropical Parula
Blackburnian Warbler
Black-lored Yellowthroat
Olive-crowned Yellowthroat
Canada Warbler
Slate-throated Whitestart
Spectacled Whitestart
Gray-and-gold Warbler
Citrine Warbler
Black-crested Warbler
Russet-crowned Warbler
Three-banded Warbler
Three-striped Warbler
Buff-rumped Warbler
Russet-backed Oropendola
Crested Oropendola
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Subtropical Cacique
Yellow-billed Cacique
White-edged Oriole
Yellow-tailed Oriole
Scrub Blackbird
Shiny Cowbird
Great-tailed Grackle
Red-breasted Blackbird
Hooded Siskin
Yellow-bellied Siskin
Thick-billed Euphonia
Orange-bellied Euphonia
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