I found the best air deal for the four of us (my wife, our two teenagers, and I) at vayama.com. The tickets were around $1500.00 US dollars each, round trip, from New York’s JFK Airport to Darwin, Australia. There was a brief stopover in Los Angeles, and, in Sydney, there was a 12 hour layover (which was positive in allowing us to visit the Sydney Botanical Gardens, next to the Opera House). The airline was Qantas, which is definitely the way to go since the quality, comfort, and wide range of free movies on board made the 22 hour total flight time almost enjoyable.
The Slater Field Guide to Australian Birds was all that we needed for bird identification. It’s inexpensive but good. If the trip had been only about birding, I probably would have seen more birds, but, even as it was, I managed 294 species. This was accomplished by birding early mornings before the family awoke and then birding less seriously throughout the rest of the day. Almost 95 percent of the birds seen were lifers for me, a United States citizen, and far from home.
SOME CONSIDERATIONS AND THE TRIP DIARY
The US dollar pulled a few percentage points over the Australian one, but, when exchange costs were counted in, the two were of almost identical value. That is, one US dollar = one Australian dollar. What I didn’t realize beforehand, however, was that everything costs about twice as much in Australia, particularly in some of the tourist areas visited. Had I been on my own, I’m sure I would have managed to pull off an inexpensive vacation anyway. For example, I would have eaten lots of kiwi fruit, avocados, and sardines. I would have camped for free, or meager pennies, or better still, jungle-hammocked it. But by taking the family, and staying at hotels, we accumulated some thousands of dollars in expenditure. Still, I believe the Lord provides, and no worries on that account from me. I was just happy to be in Australia, with its new birds and new experiences. And, it was just great to share the whole experience with the family.
Our rental car at the Darwin Airport was from Budget, a RAV 4, which is a sort of medium-sized SUV. Budget called it an ‘all-wheel drive’, but it was not one of the hardy four-wheel-drive vehicles we passed from time to time on the roads. It was, however, perfectly sufficient for the only four-wheel-drive sort of road that we were to take later. That would be the road to Gunlom Falls in southern Kakadu National Park. No four-wheel-drive checkpoints were anywhere that I could see in the National Park or elsewhere. This possibility had worried me before, as I had imagined people in uniforms saying that I could not drive certain roads because they were only for four-wheel-drive vehicles. It was nothing like that, despite what the guide books seem to allude to. In retrospect, I suppose a regular car could have driven all roads, even the Gunlom Falls Road, without too much difficulty. We did not take the four-wheel-drive road to Jim Jim Falls, but Gunlom Falls is generally considered to be equal to, or even better in quality, than that destination.
We noticed that a large number of families and couples were renting campers, presumably in Darwin, and that seemed like a great idea even for a single person, and cheaper than a hotel. Nevertheless, we loved Aurora Kakadu Resort , as well as Cassowary House Bed and Breakfast, Kingfisher Park Lodge, and the Cairns Holiday Inn. Particularly in Queensland and New South Wales, there was never any shortage of roadside motels for the spur of the moment night’s stay either. Notwithstanding, there were also a lot of places for a person to pull a camper over for a free night in the outback, not only in the Northern Territory but even on the rest of the trip in Queensland and in New South Wales. Indeed, Australia was very sparsely populated, to put it mildly. Camper vans from Wickedcamper.com seemed to be the most popular and easily-rented camper options in every place we visited.
The need to stock up on food for the days ahead was only present in Kakadu National Park. I suggest buying cheap non-perishable items in Darwin to avoid worry while in the park. The supermarket in the small town of Jabiru in the middle of Kakadu NP is open during the day on most, but not all, days. However, distances are fairly large within the park, and prices are a little higher in Jabiru. They are particularly higher at Aurora Kakadu Resort, where they only have the restaurant anyway, as well as a few items at the gas station (milk, ramen noodles, canned goods). There are a few little items like that at the store in Cooinda as well.
The family really enjoyed the short stopover in Sydney en route to Darwin from Los Angeles. We walked for a couple of hours around the Sydney Botanical Gardens. Birds seen at the gardens were: Australian White Ibis, Chestnut Teal, Grey Teal, Pacific Black Duck, Dusky Moorhen, Little Black Cormorant, Masked Lapwing, Silver Gull, Welcome Swallow, Rainbow Lorikeet, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Australian Magpie, Pied Currawong, Torresian Crow, Noisy Miner, and Common Myna. Chihuahua-sized fruit bats were everywhere.
Day 1 (first full day) - We arrived on July 2, 2010, at the Holiday Inn in Darwin, NT. It was around 1 am in the morning. I slept a few hours and awoke at daybreak as the family slept on. I birded the north end of Bicentennial Park, which begins at the front door of the hotel, and overlooks Darwin’s bay and esplanade. In about an hour or two, I had seen Beach Stone-Curlew, Masked Lapwing, White-faced Heron, Straw-necked Ibis, Brahminy Kite, and a probable Roseate Tern out from the water’s edge. In the shrubbery and rather stunted trees of the park were: Little Friarbird, Red-collared Lorikeet, Rainbow Bee-eater, Northern Fantail, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Figbird, White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, Bar-shouldered Dove, Varied Triller, White-gaped Honeyeater, Brown Honeyeater, Rufous-banded Honeyeater, Chestnut-breasted Mannikin, Sacred and Forest Kingfishers and families of Green and Olive-backed Orioles. On the lawn, Orange-footed Scrub-fowls were busy, which species was also on the forest floor at the edge of the park. Magpie-larks dodged about at my feet. Overhead, White-breasted Wood swallows were numerous. Also, an occasional Torresian Imperial Pigeon flapped by, usually fairly high overhead or perched on the tallest buildings. It took awhile to begin to learn the bird sounds in Australia and at this point every noise – and there was much bird noise – was an unknown entity to be tracked down, if possible. Breakfast by the Holiday Inn hotel pool on this morning yielded Helmeted Friarbird.
After breakfast, we all jumped in the car and headed out of Darwin towards Kakadu National Park. En route, we found a small grocery with an ATM that worked for regular credit cards. Debit cards did not seem to work well. We stocked up on a few non-perishable food items, but more stocking up would have been better, in retrospect. After about 30 to 40 minutes of driving from Darwin, we turned left off of the main highway and drove an extra few minutes to Howard Springs Park. A trail starts at a pond here and goes for a km or two along the stream flowing out from the pond. The trail is a loop trail, coming back to its beginning on the opposite side of the stream. At the pond, we had great looks at long-necked turtles and large crayfish in the clear water; also, some snazzy fish. Rainbow Bee-eaters perched around the pond on dead branches. The trail yielded male and female Shining Flycatcher, Azure Kingfisher, Dusky Myzomela, Leaden Flycatcher, Spangled Drongo, and Brown Goshawk. I was rather pumped at seeing the beautiful kingfisher, but they turned out to be reasonably common in Kakadu later, as were also Sacred and Forest Kingfishers.
We continued on in our car another hour or so to Aurora Kakadu Resort, just past the South Alligator River bridge. A small flock or two of Galahs were seen in roadside trees. We also did stop briefly at a Wetlands Interpretive Center en route, a part of the Kakadu National Park infrastructure. There, we saw both Black and Whistling Kites (lots of both, but somewhat more Whistling – note that Whistlings have almost rounded tails while Blacks have neatly forked tails). A White-throated Honeyeater, Rufous-throated Honeyeater, and a Magpie Goose or two were present. Figbirds were in the trees. We encountered a band of Red-tailed Black Cockatoos in a sparsely-treed partly burned area en route as well. The aboriginal people clear undergrowth by regular burning. The Red-tailed Black Cockatoos like the partly burned areas, and they turned out to be a fairly common species overall. After settling into our lodging at Aurora Kakadu, we went for a swim in the pool, and enjoyed their delicious (albeit expensive) buffet. In the evening, I walked the road with a flashlight and was able to spotlight a calling Barking Boobook, not more than a few yards across the “highway” from the resort. The boobooks called at the resort each evening and morning from many directions, often right on the resort grounds, and were rather common. The call is a bit hooty and owlish… a sort of wup-wup or hoot-hoot, with a short pause, another wup-wup, and so forth. The stars, incidentally, were spectacular.
July 3 - In the morning, the family excitedly walked the trail that goes for about 3 km through the thicket woods (Gungarre Walk) from the Aurora Resort’s campground, around to its Billabong, and on to the resort again. Along this trail, I quickly added Arafura Fantail, Little Shrike-Thrush, Lemon-bellied Flyrobin, and Brush Cuckoo. Brown and White-throated Honeyeaters, and Dusky Myzomelas were frequent. About one km along the trail, the woods essentially become a dark tangle. Here, a Rainbow Pitta hopped onto the path and afforded fabulous looks. A few days later, I found the bird and its mate at the same spot, this time on the forest floor, beside the trail, not right in the path itself. Whilst I slowly birded the trail this morning of July 3, the family forged ahead, but they saw a beautiful perched Pacific Baza at about the two km point, which I missed for the time being. Over the next few days I walked the path at various times of day and saw: Blue-winged Kookaburra, Green-backed Gerygone, Cicadabird, White-winged Triller, Canary White-eye, Little Bronze-Cuckoo, Brush Cuckoo, Torresian Crow, Mistletoebird, Rufous Whistler, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Little Corella, Rufous-throated Honeyeater, more Olive-backed and Yellow Orioles, and other repeat birds from Darwin. Among the repeat birds, was Blue-faced Honeyeater, a particular favorite of mine. At the billabong itself, Australian Hobby, Green Pygmy-Goose, a spanking Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove, a day-roosting Tawny Frogmouth, Red-winged Parrot, and Little Woodswallow were found. The Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove had a call that started out with a series of coos, but got faster as it went. Coo…Coo…Coo..coo..coo..coo.coo.coocoocoo. Knowing its call made all the difference in locating it easily later, though personally, I just happened to see it first. Wallabies were common along the edge of the lawns at Aurora Kakadu. A few lizards and snakes were seen. The best lizard was a Mertens’ Water Monitor at the billabong dock. It was almost a meter long and simply went about its business a’hunting along the dock and the water edge.
July 4 – This day the family got up early and drove to Nourlangie Rock by daybreak. However, just a km or so before Nourlangie Rock (a must-see native art site) was Nowurlandja trail and a small billabong. We went there first. At the billabong were Australian Darter and a probable Silver-crowned Friarbird. On the trail up some sloping rocks were Great Bowerbird and a couple soaring Black-necked Storks (formerly called Jabirus). We drove on over to Nourlangie Rock. The short entrance path to the art site had a Northern Rosella, feeding in the eucalyptus trees. The rock art was pretty cool and not really like any other rock art that I could think of. The aboriginals seemed to like to paint the internal anatomies of any creature depicted, sort of like X-rays. On the drive back towards Aurora Kakadu, not too far north of Nourlangie Rock, a couple of Partridge Pigeons flew in and settled by the roadside. They are really snazzy birds, having beautiful faces, and they are very range restricted also.
July 5 – We took the sunset cruise on the Yellow Waters Billabong near Cooinda this day. The cruise was super-spectacular and well worth the effort in all respects (only about 50 dollars per person as I recall). Crocodiles were plentiful and seen closely. All kinds of birds were visible from the boat at very close range. Comb-crested Jacanas, White-bellied Sea-Eagles, Royal Spoonbills, Raja Shelducks, both Whistling Ducks, Nankeen Night Herons, Whiskered Terns, more Black-necked Storks, Little Pied Cormorants, Willie Wagtails, kingfishers, and wading birds abounded. Intermediate and Eastern Great Egrets were common, but there were some rarer birds like Australian Pratincole, Australian Pelican, and Hardhead. A probable Pale-vented Bushhen flew into some reeds as well. Behind the cultural center in nearby Cooinda, I had a great look at a rather sedentary Bar-breasted Honeyeater, the only one of the trip. He was hanging out around a colorful flower or two up in a Eucalyptus tree, from which he fed. A Masked Finch was in the tall grass here, as was a Pheasant Coucal. Also, at the parking lot for the boat trip, Glossy Ibis, Pied Heron, and White-necked Heron were feeding. Driving back to the Aurora Kakadu resort at dark along the main highway, we found two different live large King Brown Snakes on the road itself. We had excellent views from the vehicle but not from outside of it since they are touted as one of the most poisonous snakes in the world! It should be pointed out that I rarely went a day in Australia without seeing at least one snake, though no more appeared to be the King Brown species. Most of the snakes seen were crawling away from me beside trails, and also crossing roads. They seemed to be of various species, and I did not identify most.
Interestingly, there were two rare and completely unexpected rain showers during our Kakadu visit that brought out good numbers of snakes to the roads, perhaps to eat the frogs that became more plentiful.
July 6 – Briefly birded the bridge at the South Alligator River. A Brolga crane flew overhead up the river, and a White-bellied Sea-Eagle. Rainbow Bee-eater, Canary White-eye, Golden-headed Cisticola, and Tawny Grassbird were in evidence, the later two in the tall grasses between the river and the parking lot. A visit to the nearby Mamukala Wetlands produced: family groups of Red-backed Fairy-wren, Paperbark Flycatcher, Crimson, Double-barred, Masked and Long-tailed Finches, Purple Swamphen, Comb-crested Jacana and more Magpie Geese.
July 7 – We took a break and hung out around Aurora Kakadu Resort all day. I walked near the main road at the resort on a rather parallel dirt road and came to the ranger’s residence. Then, it was a few more meters to the end of the resort’s billabong. Plenty of Galahs were near the ranger station, whereas there were plenty of Little Corellas all of the time at the resort proper. You can’t miss them – they are loud and conspicuous. A Pied Butcherbird was found in the woods. Little Friarbirds were everywhere, as were Red-collared Lorikeets. Although a few Sulfur-crested Cockatoos were present, they would turn out to be much more numerous on the east coast, particularly in lush Queensland. Whenever they are present, and that is fairly often, they give loud harsh raucous calls that give them away instantly, from quite a distance. Red-collared Lorikeets, however, were the most plentiful parrot type everywhere we visited in the Northern Territory. Near the ranger station here at Aurora Kakadu they were plentiful. However, there was not a single day of our trip in the Northern Territory when we did not see flocks of them. They are especially noisy and conspicuous when they come flying in to designated roost trees in the evenings, and their roost trees seem to be just about everywhere. The situation is no different for the very similar Rainbow Lorikeet in Queensland and New South Wales.
July 8 – We went to another rock art site, called Ubirr Rock. It turned out to be just as interesting art-wise as Nourlangie Rock, except that it had a much better view of the land itself. Small tourist groups climbed up onto a huge rock outcropping not far from the parking area and enjoyed smashingly spectacular views of the Arnhem land and the marshes going on into the distance. All of this was at sunset – really fabulous. A beautiful flock of rather uncommon Varied Lorikeets flew to a fruiting tree visible from the rock outcrop while I was there. Brown Honeyeaters, Peaceful Doves, a fly-by Little Black Cormorant, and (beside the highway) Diamond Dove and Brown Falcon were the birds of note. Also, Red-winged Parrots. A Rock Wallaby was contentedly perched on a rock slab here, the only one of these seen.
July 9 – We managed a bit of a bush walk through several kilometers of scrub, eucalyptus, and fine sand to see the East Alligator River. The walk was named the Bardedjilidji Walk. We almost ran out of water and it was hot. We did get great views of many Mistletoebirds and a perched Eastern Osprey, a separate species from the Western Osprey of the US, and maybe a little more mangy. Rufous Whistlers were fairly common. We tried to find the Chestnut-quilled Rock-Pigeons which supposedly make wing noises in the rock canyons we passed, but to no avail. The next day, however, the family flushed one of these above Gunlom Falls.
July 10 – Today, we got up about 2 hours before daybreak and drove south from Aurora Kakadu Resort . This day, we were to leave Kakadu National Park for good, but en route we wanted to see Gunlom Falls at the park’s south side. We drove through the dark early morning to the turnoff to Gunlom Falls. Along the way, we saw various night birds in the headlights. An Australian Owlet-Nightjar flew right up in the light and showed its complete under-profile and buffy color. No white in those wings. However, later, at a marshy river crossing, a Spotted Nightjar got caught in the lights as it was flying about. It did indeed have white wing tip bars. I had previously heard a few of these over the swimming pool at Aurora Kakadu resort but this was the only one actually seen. We also saw a small rat-like marsupial, perhaps a bandicoot or some such thing as it paused in the road.
We arrived at the parking lot below Gunlom Falls a little before daybreak. We admired the stars and rested in the car. We then climbed the short but somewhat tiring trail up to the top of the falls. A series of crystal-clear pools at the top were perfect for the kids to swim in. I crossed over the stream that fed the waterfall here and walked along the opposite side of the stream a short ways. There, perched on a dead branch, beside a huge rock, was a beautiful Banded Fruit-Dove. I approached to within close range and had fabulous views of all of it. I most liked its white head with a bright yellow dove bill. I then scoured the ridges on both sides of the stream for White-throated Grasswren but did not find it. I did find another flock of Varied Lorikeets and a lot of Helmeted Friarbirds. Great Bowerbirds were about and in the campground below the falls was one of their bowers. The bower featured all white objects exclusively… except for an archway of grey sticks. On the drive out along the washboard dirt entrance road to Gunlom, we found a Dingo, just walking patiently along near the car, traversing his distance methodically.
We left Kakadu through its southern entrance and, around 2 or 3 pm, we made it to the town of Pine Creek. There was an excellent café next to the bar at the far end of town, across from the BP Gas Station, and we got a decent hotel room behind the bar. I searched the town for Hooded Parrots, but could only find other birds: Grey-crowned Babblers (fairly common), Black-faced Cuckoo-shrikes (on telephone wires), Crested Pigeons (on the ball field lawns), and the trip’s only Yellow-throated Miners (in the woods by the town’s water tower). I went to bed with the sinking feeling that Hooded Parrot would be too rare to find.
July 11 – I awoke before the family did, and canvassed the town for Hooded Parrot. I was about to give up, when a Northern Rosella or two joined a Red-collared Lorikeet flock at the end of town closest to the Railroad Museum. I thought that seeing a species of parrot besides the common Red-collared Lorikeets was a good sign, so I headed in that direction. Soon, on the telephone wires along the main street, I found a small flock of 6 or so Hooded Parrots. Only one was a beautiful male. The rest were females or immature males. They flew to the lawn of the park below their perch and some flew out of view into a ditch with a small stream. Then, many more started to arrive. Before long, I realized I was looking at about 2 large flocks of 25 birds or more each. That made a total of 50+ Hooded Parrots. This was far more than I was prepared for. I watched and watched until I had my fill. They seemed to be drinking from the stream as well as the dew on the grass. Later, as our family left Pine Creek in the late morning, a few of the birds were still hanging around the Railroad Museum in the trees which edged the park.
We drove towards Darwin but stopped en route at Litchfield National Park. Not too far before the turnoff to Litchfield, we saw a dead wallaby in the road. Some ubiquitous kites and a Brown Falcon seemed to be interested in the carcass. However, when I followed the falcon to a nearby perch with my binoculars, I realized he had flown into a dead tree containing two Wedge-tailed Eagles. Obviously, they were interested in the carcass too. After turning onto the side road to Litchfield National Park, a Collared Sparrowhawk flew across the road.
At Litchfield NP, we enjoyed the Rock Pool swimming very much. The magnetic termite mounds were of interest here also. We left the park and then drove on to the same Darwin Holiday Inn that we had enjoyed before. We went out to dinner on nearby Mitchell Street, which is the only great dinner area in town, but it is great. We also hit up an internet café and did a little shopping.
July 12 – This morning I got up before dawn and drove the short distance north of Darwin to Lee Point. A flock of Australian Pelicans was about the boat ramp (Buffalo Creek). I walked to the beach from the Casuarina Reserve parking area near Lee Point. It was only a few meters to the beach. A fair-sized bunch of shorebirds and terns was occupying the beach flats to my right. I approached everything very slowly, since I only had binoculars, and no spotting scope. Fortunately, very close approach was granted. A single Ruddy Turnstone and Sanderling stuck out from the rest of the birds. (well, at least something was like home). The vast majority of birds were Greater Sandplovers. Also common, were Great Knots, Red-necked Stints, and Red-capped Plovers. Two Terek Sandpipers actively foraged together amongst the crowd. They are easy to pick out with yellow legs, somewhat upturned beaks, and abrupt foreheads. Also, a Common Sandpiper, a Pacific Golden Plover, and a few terns were there. The terns were all sitting together. Only two were Caspian. There were about 5 or more Swift Terns and about that many Lesser Crested Terns. These latter two crested tern species are easy to separate since, among other things, one has a darker mantle color. I walked off the beach over to the tree edge bordering the beach and was amazed to immediately find Red-headed Myzomela, male and female. They responded to swishing. Also here, a Black Butcherbird and a Common Bronzewing dove emerged. As I walked to the car, a Tree Martin cut about in the air, and a female Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove showed well. I drove back over to Buffalo Creek boat launch (not more than a km away) and stared into the tall mangroves on the right side of the boat launch. Red-headed Myzomelas seemed common here in the tall mangroves. A Large-billed Gerygone responded to swishing and showed nicely here as well. No Chestnut Rail, though.
The locked gate at the sewage treatment plant (just off the road back to Darwin) held nothing new, just various finch species. No Yellow-rumps.
July 13 – We took a very early morning flight on Jetstar (a domestic division of Quantas) from Darwin to Cairns, Queensland. This was fairly cheap and only took a few hours. When flying in, the view of Cairns, with its harbor and surrounding rainforest-clad mountains instantly fed our enthusiasm. We were coming from the dry outback to the lush tropics. We enthusiastically checked into the Holiday Inn on the Cairns esplanade, and walked over to the esplanade restaurants for a meal. A walk on the esplanade itself afterwards instantly turned up Bar-tailed Godwits, Eastern Curlews, Whimbrels, Curlew Sandpipers, Red-necked Stints, Gull-billed Terns, Welcome Swallows, Black-fronted Dotterels, Eastern Reef Egrets, Striated Herons, Australian Swiftlets, Yellow and Varied Honeyeaters, Nutmeg Mannikins, and, in the mangroves at the north end of the esplanade, Collared Kingfisher and Mangrove Robins.
July 14 – I was up at daybreak to bird the Centenary Lakes park in the north-central part of the town of Cairns. A pair of Laughing Kookaburras there was the first for the trip. They even let loose with the famous morning call as a duet, just like the Blue-winged Kookaburras also do. I had great looks at a few Double-eyed Fig-Parrots, of the Macleay’s race. A Spectacled Monarch was up in a tree, giving what would become a regular noise on my birding excursions, a kind of light buzzy grating call. Olive-backed Sunbirds were around as well, plus Black Butcherbird and Helmeted Friarbird. I located the entrance to the trail up Mount Whitfield (north side of Centenary Lakes) and summoned the family for a hike up to its summit. It was the wrong time of year for Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfishers, but a few other new birds were found. Four Pacific Bazas were performing some sort of aerial display above the trees at the parking lot/trail head. They were doing shallow dips of a semicircular nature. Yellow-spotted Honeyeaters were common. Pale-yellow Robins were in evidence, a Fairy Gerygone male sang on an exposed under branch. Also, Large-billed Scrubwrens responded to swishing frequently, and usually hung about around my feet somewhere after being called in. Some interesting smaller wallabies, called Red-legged Pandamelons, were seen quietly hopping through the rainforest slopes. Some wild, and rather tiny, dark jungle pigs were also seen.
July 15 – Today, we took a tour boat out to the barrier reef and snorkeled. The tour was with a company called Sunlover Cruises and is highly recommended. The tour was easily set up from a tour shop right on the esplanade in Cairns . They set us up for the very next morning, essentially on the spur of the moment, without much difficulty. The tour was an unparalleled experience and well worth it. Birds included Brown Noddies and Brown Boobies on a concrete slab near the dive site. Sea life included colorful fish, sea turtles, gigantic fish, giant clams, coral, sea slugs, and the like.
July 16 – I read that there was a good birding road on the western edge of Cairns, called Lake Morris Road. I started birding it about 10 km up its length and continued on to its terminus at the lake, another 15 or so miles. It was a very good choice, being wet lush rainforest and full of birds, though at times they seemed sparse until mixed-species flocks were located. I quickly added two new Monarchs to the trip list besides the ubiquitous Spectacled. These were Pied and White-eared Monarchs. A few Yellow-breasted Boatbills were seen and heard. Silvereyes were rather common. A Wompoo Fruit-Dove flew across the road. They were heard with moderate regularity as well, emitting a deep guttural ‘hhwom-pooo’, essentially saying their name. Brown Cuckoo-Doves put in an appearance (they turned out to be fairly common) and Eastern Whipbirds were regularly heard, and even seen a couple of times near the ground. Their call is very distinctive, a flying saucerish steady ‘eeeeeeeeeeee’ followed by a loud ‘whip’. The ending is so loud that you tend to think it is a bigger bird. Several Victoria’s Riflebirds were seen, but only one was a male. He had selected a natural display post, the blunt top of a dead tree trunk. He gave a single harsh screech from time to time, but when a female finally flew onto his display post , he threw back his head, exposing a bright yellow inner bill. He used his wings to make a canopy over her, with first one wing and then the other and back again. All the while, he was puffed out at the mid-section and bobbing up and down. This was my first bird of paradise species ever and the display was indeed impressive. A Pied Currawong and a Brahminy Kite were seen. A Golden Whistler or two were among the branches, and calling. Some fine looks were had at Double-eyed Fig-Parrot again. A roving flock of Topknot Pigeons flew across the road overhead.
July 17 – A Peregrine Falcon was seen cruising the buildings near the Cairns esplanade and again in downtown Cairns not far from the harbor. I had read that Red-necked Crakes could occasionally be seen at the boardwalk at Centenary Lakes Park, so I walked the boardwalk as evening drew on. Nobody was more shocked than I to find a beautiful Red-necked Crake walk right next to me and then under the boardwalk, emerging from underneath on the opposite side and walking on. The bird was not in the wettest area of the boardwalk, but, rather, about two thirds of the way along the boardwalk where it was just regular forest floor. Apparently, they are birds of the rainforest floor more than of the marsh. Plenty of Brush-Turkeys and Scrub-Fowl were there as well.
July 18 – We drove the hour or so north of Cairns to Cassowary House Bed and Breakfast near the small tourist town of Kuranda. After the luxury of the Holiday Inn in Cairns, the Cassowary House cabin in the jungle was more rustic, although in many ways more exciting. Dusky Rat-Kangaroos could be seen from time to time on the forest floor from our balcony overlooking a jungle creek, and, at night, a couple of other species of rat-like kangaroo relatives were seen on our balcony or even in the cabin near the kitchen sink. A few rather disconcerting spiders lurked inside the cabin (on the ceiling) and even in the bathroom. They resembled thin tarantulas, a little smaller though, and were generally sedentary. They never bothered us. I loved all of this type of stuff for the experience! The hostess, Sue, was extremely gracious, and in the habit of catering to birders. She knew locales for birds and other natural wonders intimately, and her recommendations were spot-on. I quickly added a fly-by White-headed Pigeon. On the Black Mountain Road a km or so from the cabin, Yellow-throated Scrubwrens were found, hopping about on the road itself. At bridge number 4 on Black Mountain Road, a gravel road cut off to the right, looking like a very long driveway. In the thicket created by human cutting along the road, I located a gorgeous Lovely Fairy-wren male. Also, Red-browed Firetail finches were common in the planted pine groves here. Up in the taller eucalyptus trees by the bridge were several singing Scarlet Myzomelas. They were present because it was the winter season – yet they still sang.
Back at the cabin at Cassowary House, Spotted Catbirds were fairly common, as they also were along Black Mountain Road itself. They give away their location by making a loudish ‘raaaaah’ call like a very upset housecat. These birds were much larger than I had imagined, about pigeon size, or even chunkier. Also around the cabin were ubiquitous flocks of Rufous Fantail, Large-billed Scrubwren, Spectacled Monarch, Little Shrikethrush and Yellow-spotted Honeyeater. Yellow-breasted Boatbills were around at times too, as were Eastern Whipbirds. A Black Butcherbird hung out between our porch and the bird feeders. At the bird feeders, Macleay’s Honeyeaters and Victoria’s Riflebirds were rather frequent visitors. Common Emerald Doves also liked the feeders. The best bird to walk by the feeder, though, was a large female Southern Cassowary. It was seen twice by our family during our 5-day stay, and always right around the cabin. However, we might have seen it even more if we had not been out and about on nearby excursions to the town of Kuranda, the the Skyrail, and to various Atherton Tableland attractions.
July 19 – We drove a couple of hours over to a series of small ponds, called Tarzoli Lakes, on the Atherton Tablelands. Wild Duck-billed Platypus are a guaranteed sight here, by the proprietor, who shows you them for a small fee. They are there at any time of day. At the pond with the 5 or so Platypus, a Pacific Baza flew down to light directly in front of us. Also, Bridled Honeyeaters foraged in the trees planted beside the Tarzoli Lake reception center/café. The home-raised fresh Barramundi fish was delicious at the café there. A Grey Goshawk perched beside the road near the town of Yungaburra as we headed home. Also, this day we visited the Curtain Fig Tree near Yungaburra. In the rainforest around the tree were plenty of Brown Gerygones and a few Lewin’s Honeyeaters. We visited Lake Barrine, which had a sizeable population of Great-crested Grebes. A stop at the Mareeba Wetlands, near the town of Mareeba, produced Australasian Grebe on the billabong. Also, we flushed a small covey of Brown Quail here, and saw a definite Emu track along a dry creekbed. A noisy group of Apostlebirds was heard, and then seen, in the reserve. Along the eucalyptus-lined entrance road, were several Striated Pardalotes, singing. They respond to swishing well. Also, small flocks of Scaly-breasted Lorikeets were detected in the same eucalyptus trees as the aforementioned species. My wife located another Tawny Frogmouth, on its day perch. The dairy pastures in some sections of the Atherton Tablelands had a few Australian Pipits, hanging about fence posts and on the grass. Mount Hypipamee crater was a good spot we visited. We found a couple of Grey-headed Robins along the river trail there, and a few Eastern Spinebills. A Peregrine Falcon was perched at the rim atop the crater. Hastie’s Swamp was also visited, which was thick with Purple Swamphens, various common ducks and a few Hardheads. As evening drew on, a small flock of cranes of one or both of the regularly-occurring species flew in to roost. Heading back towards Kuranda from the town of Mareeba, we passed a field with hay in bales and some tall grass. A family group of Australian Bustards foraged here. Also, a Nankeen Kestrel was perched on a hay bale.
July 20 – We spent a lot of time enjoying the restaurants in Kuranda. We also took the famed Skyrail over the rainforest. It was a bit interesting, and overlooked much more rainforest than I had realized it would. That was encouraging, to say the least, to see endless hills of untouched rainforest continuing into the distance. As far as birds go, nothing too spectacular was seen, though.
July 21 and July 22 – We hung around Kuranda and Cassowary House B & B. Olive-backed Sunbird, Forest Kingfisher, and many repeat species were seen. I’m pretty sure that I heard a Superb Fruit-Dove call several times. It became easier to separate the various dove calls as I began to learn each species better. Superb Fruit-Dove has an evenly-spaced series of coos. Wompoo Fruit-Doves were rather common in the area, and Brown Cuckoo-Doves. I saw a probable Topknot Pigeon fly by too.
July 23 – In the morning, we bid farewell to Cassowary House and headed on over to Kingfisher Park Lodge near Julatten. All in all, Cassowary House had been a very good monetary deal for us, as we only paid between three and four hundred dollars for five nights total. We did not select their most expensive accommodation, though, just the cabin. Also, the proprietess, Sue, had offered invaluable advice concerning where to visit in the Atherton Tablelands region. She even helped us plan a birder’s path on our later journey down to Sydney.
After we left Cassowary House, it took an hour or two to get to Kingfisher Park Lodge, and the kids were immediately impressed by its comfort. I was introduced to the birding couple who ran the lodge. There were lots of other birders around, but the proprietor, Keith, still took the time to invite me on a bird walk that would occur later on that evening. He promised to show us all a roosting Papuan Frogmouth in their orchard! First, however, I high-tailed it up nearby Mount Lewis by myself, whilst the family settled in to the accommodation.
The entire road to Mount Lewis seemed very good for birds (although I did not really get out of the car much due to time constraint), and on the road I did pick up Grey-headed Robin, White-browed and Yellow-throated Scrubwrens. However, the only serious birding done on Mount Lewis was conducted on the short trail at the end of the Mount Lewis road. The trail was just before the gate across the road, the one that precluded further driving near the top of the mountain. The walk along the trail there was well worth it. I saw a couple of White-throated Treecreepers very nicely. Also, Atherton Scrubwrens were common, as were my first Mountain Thornbills, the only thornbills that occur there. At a point about half way along the trail, three Chowchillas put on a show in the leaf litter, and even called a bit. Two more were in the leaf litter near the parking lot at the gate. This species was bigger than I had imagined, seeming almost like a quail or small partridge. They kick at right angles to their body and bury themselves pretty far in the leaf litter doing so. Under a tangle of brambles beside the trail, the only Fernwren of the trip showed beautifully. He had a bright white strip of a throat above a neatly-defined black patch, making the throat white above black. He was just kicking in the leaf litter like so many other birds do around here. Perhaps the best bird of the trail, was a female or immature male Golden Bowerbird which was in a mixed species flock. This bird showed very well at eye level.
I hurried back down the mountain in my car to Kingfisher Park with only a few hours of daylight left. To my dismay, I learned that the bird walk conducted by the proprietor had already commenced and that the birders were at the end of a nearby trail already. I located them and asked the leader if he had seen the Papuan Frogmouth yet on the walk. He said that the group had already seen it, but he promised to take me back to the spot in a few moments anyway. I was extremely grateful for this, of course. We backtracked and, sure enough, there was the bird, large and unseemly, up in a tree at the edge of the orchard. I had never expected to see any Frogmouth on the Australia trip because I thought they would be too challenging to find…and yet here I was seeing my second species of frogmouth already. Another neat bird addition at this time was a Graceful Honeyeater. They are noticeably smaller and more sleek than their close cousins, Yellow-spotted Honeyeaters. In fact, they are more graceful, as the name implies.
This night, the whole family went on a night walk around the area, led by the hosts Keith and Lindsay. First off, they showed us a roosting family of Eastern Barn Owls (different species from Western) that roost in the sycamores near the entrance. That was pretty cool, but so were the pair of Bush Stone-Curlews feeding and calling in a nearby field. We also saw Green Ringtail Possom, Common and Long-nosed Bandicoots, Leaf-tailed Gecko, and various frogs and treefrogs. The whole family enjoyed the night walk immensely. The kids especially liked the Leaf-tailed Gecko.
July 24 – It was a rainy day but I drove the family up to the trail at Mount Lewis again. The rain brought out a fair number of smallish land leeches which we had to flick off of our trousers with some vigilance. The family still enjoyed the mountain adventure anyway. In the afternoon, we went a couple kilometers down the road from Kingfisher House to a little marsh/eucalyptus area. The best birds seen were a family of White-cheeked Honeyeaters.
July 25 – We got up early and drove an hour or so to the Daintree River for a boat ride with Chris Dahlberg. He did not take the boat very far up or down the river but he did duck into some side channels. On one of these, we saw a Great-billed Heron nest. Unfortunately, no heron was on the nest at the time. What was there, was a Little Kingfisher, the only one of the trip! Chris also showed us a very obliging Green Water Snake, which was not poisonous, settled among the branches at eye level. Chris pulled his boat right alongside a point-blank Broad-billed Flycatcher at the mangrove edge. We saw its broad bill several times. We were so close to it. Chris always did a fine job maneuvering his craft close to things. When we left his boat, we were thinking that we were going to miss Great-billed Heron altogether. However, about an hour later, while waiting in line at the Daintree Ferry Crossing, my wife Deb spotted one just flapping towards us down the middle of the river. It passed right by and gave us all excellent views.
We then took the ferry across the Daintree River and drove an hour or so to Cape Tribulation. The beach there was stunning and beautiful. There tend to be very few people on the beaches in the Daintree region. In fact, beaches along the entire northeast coast of Australia generally are fabulous.
July 26 – We left Kingfisher Park and drove south along the eastern seaboard past Cairns, and on to the Tyto Wetlands in the town of Ingham. About 20 kilometers north of Ingham, a Swamp Harrier flew across the road and continued gliding over the tops of a sugar cane field. Upon reaching Ingham, we parked at the Tyto Wetlands on the east side of town. It consisted of a kilometer or two of trails around a large marshy lake, and several smaller ponds. Wallabies were present in the hundreds and were easily approachable. Because it was evening by this time, we checked in to the hotel across the street and planned to bird the wetland in the morning.
July 27 – I walked around the largest lake at Tyto Wetlands at daybreak. The only White-browed Robin of the trip responded to my swishing from some lakeside shrubs. The bird was fairly teed up, and seemed to lift its tail and hop about agitatedly. It was prettier than I what I was expecting for the species. In the abundant grasses and reeds were several Tawny Grassbirds, Golden-headed Cisticolas, and Crimson Finches. A huge roost of hundreds of Rainbow Bee-eaters was interesting as well. My family took a picture of what appeared to be a Grass Owl nest in the grasses. No owl though. I noticed a Red-bellied Black Snake of fair size, curled up in the grass directly where I was about to walk. They are quite poisonous, so it was a good thing that I was vigilant. A Black-necked Stork was feeding in the distance, as well as a few Comb-crested Jacanas. A probable Broad-billed Flycatcher was in the shrubbery.
July 28 and 29 – We arrived in Townsend and ended up staying two nights at a city motel. I drove to the nearest mangrove beach cove and had great looks at Varied Honeyeaters. Also, many Bush Stone-Curlews were roosting at a park en route. The other kind of Stone-Curlews, a couple Beach Stone-Curlews, were resting in the shade under the mangroves right at the beach proper.
July 30 – We left Townsend and headed down the coast towards Rockhampton. Around Macay, I saw a Black-shouldered Kite on a light post over the highway. We stayed the night at a motel just north of Rockhampton.
July 31 – We gassed up in Rockhampton and prepared to cut inland towards Mount Morgan. The hillsides and the mountain pass that we traversed en route were charming and interesting-looking. Beautiful tall golden grass covered the slopes and trees were interspersed with a kind of odd stumpy ‘grass-bush’. Mount Morgan was a tiny mining town, a little like a piece of the old west in the USA. The bakery here, as in so many other towns, was a major attraction. We headed on through Biloela on our way to Monto. Birdlife began to take on new dimensions as we headed south. A eucalypt forest rest stop held White-eared and White-naped Honeyeaters, Noisy Miners, Laughing Kookaburras, Pied Currawongs, and Brown Thornbills. We stopped about 35 kms from Monto at Cania Gorge National Park, Queensland. We were awestruck by flocks of King Parrots and Pale-headed Rosellas just sitting around in the trees at the beautiful gorge pullover. We spent the night at a motel in Monto.
August 1 and 2 - I walked behind the Monto, Queensland, motel a couple of blocks to a small patch of eucalyptus trees bordering agricultural fields. A nicely marked White-throated Gerygone was present in the trees. Also, a wild pair of Cockatiels was investigating the top of a dead tree, particularly its hollow interior cavity. They were pretty cool, being super-streamlined. The male was brighter in coloration. We left Monto and headed over to Mundaburra for late breakfast. When leaving town after the meal, a Grey Butcherbird sat in a tree beside the road. The species was much more grey and washed out than the bright black and white Pied Butcherbirds we had been seeing with regularity along the highway. As we were to head further south in subsequent days, Grey Butcherbirds would become more regular. We made it all the way to Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, with a couple of hours of daylight to spare. We were happily surprised to find that the headquarters office/general store rents entire houses (“cabins”) to people on the spot for very little money, considering. We paid only 190 dollars for 2 full nights. The cabin and surrounding area was almost ethereal. We were in a beautiful rainforest oasis above the drier ranchland. Crimson Rosellas and King Parrots were everywhere. So were Superb Fairywrens. Only slightly less abundant were Eastern Yellow Robin, Fan-tailed Cuckoo, Satin Bowerbird, Yellow-rumped Thornbill, and Grey Shrike-thrush. I had stunning views of two different Regent Bowerbird males, and a beautiful Rose Robin here. Also, a gorgeous Variegated Fairy-wren family was located at a higher shrubbier overlook. Point blank views of 2 different Bassian Thrushes was not that bad either. A pair of Green Catbirds was seen near Burton’s Well in the park. I would recommend Bunya Mountains National Park as a definite trip highlight.
August 3 – We left Bunya Mountains and went south to Tenterfield. Pretty soon, I saw a soaring light phase Little Eagle beside the road. Finally, I was seeing a buteo-like bird in Australia. I had not seen a single raptor with buteo-like dimensions in all of Australia until now. The most common raptors had been Whistling and Black Kites almost everywhere we went. We stopped at Giraween National Park south of Stanthorpe. It was a really cool place with woodlands, monoliths, streams, and trails, and featured quite a few of our first real kangaroos –Grey Kangaroos. They are larger than wallabies, being a very satisfying kangaroo in all respects. Yellow-tufted Honeyeaters were around, as were Yellow-faced. Yellow Thornbill put in an appearance. My favorite bird here was one pair of Red Wattlebirds. The male did have a little red around the whisker area, as the name implies. They seemed to me like birds worthy of Australia for some reason, perhaps because of their exotic name, or atypical dimensions.
August 4 – We left Tenterfield and headed on south to Glen Ines, Warialda, and then down to Barraba and nearby Woodsreef. Nankeen Kestrels were becoming common, as were Crested Pigeons. Black-shouldered Kites were also more frequent. At a roadside eucalyptus rest stop, I had a great look at a Musk Parrot feeding in the trees. The town of Warialda had an information center. A local camper owner led us from there along a nearby drainage ditch with reeds. On a fence near the ditch, we located the first Jacky Winter of the trip. It was rather like a very pale Phoebe with white on the sides of the tail. In a tree in front of the information center, a Red-winged Parrot and a beautiful Eastern Rosella fed. This was the fourth species of Rosella seen so far. Upon leaving Warialda, we located a flock of Red-rumped Parrots on the telephone wires. We arrived in the town of Barraba with enough daylight to bird Mille Creek, just outside of town. Brown Treecreepers were conspicuous there. Also, Little Lorikeets were about. A few new species of honeyeaters here included White-plumed and Fuscous.
August 5 – The next morning we went to nearby Woodsreef for some fossicking. Two Wedge-tailed Eagles circled very closely overhead. A pair of Speckled Warblers frolicked about. A dry opening in the eucalypts yielded a pair of Hooded Robins. They seem to forage much as Eastern Bluebirds do back home. Another Rose Robin and Fan-tailed Cuckoo appeared. We went back to Mille Creek near Barraba and I was rewarded with Striated Thornbill, a flock or two of White-winged Choughs, Apostlebirds, overhead White-backed Swallows, Turquoise Parrot, very striking Diamond Firetail finches (as well as Double-barred Finches), and more Jacky Winters and Brown Treecreepers. I almost stepped on another poisonous Red-bellied Black Snake here. Fortunately, this species of snake is not very camouflaged.
August 6 - Today, we drove a rather short distance to the country music town of Tamworth. We watched TV at the motel a lot.
August 7 – Today, we headed on south past Muswellbrook and Singleton and then through the streamside winding road between Woleemi National Park and Yengo National Park. At large Lake Widdell south of Muswellbrook there were quite a few Black Swans. They were visible from the main highway, but at a bit of a distance. We stopped at a pull-over in Woleemi National Park and saw a male Variegated Fairywren. Also in Woleemi, were Yellow-faced, Yellow-tufted, White-naped and White-cheeked Honeyeaters, Eastern Spinebill, Striated Thornbill, White-winged Chough, and a beautiful Spotted Pardalote. A perfectly-preserved wombat was a road kill from another vehicle that we investigated with interest. They are about the size and dimensions of a medium to small pig. We also saw scratch marks in the sand made by a live wombat, with a perfect footprint preserved there. We spent the night in the town of Windsor. The northwest side of town, where our motel was, had great restaurants.
August 8 – We left the Windsor hotel early and drove to Royal National Park on the south edge of Sydney. Rosellas, spinebills, and another Spotted Pardalote were at the visitors’ center parking lot. We drove down to the south end of the national park, to Garie Beach. New Holland Honeyeaters were common in the dune scrub by the beach, and a pair of Little Wattlebirds was new for us as well. Conditions were perfect for seabirds, some were seen even from the shore, with onshore winds and choppy seas. No barrier reef stopped the waves from rolling in here. I only had a few moments to look at the sea for birds, since the family was getting hungry. Still, two Black-browed Albatrosses came into view. They were using the classic albatross cruising technique, dipping into the wave troughs then cycling up to a point, then back down into the troughs, and so on. They are white underneath, even under the wings, with white heads and most of the tail area white too. Only the upper mantle of the bird is grey, from wing tip to wingtip. I think that I had a glimpse of a few Prions of undetermined species as well. We drove over a few kilometers to the south end of Carrington Road (its actually not a car road proper, but a walking trail only). We walked a hundred yards or more along it and then took a short side trail along a moist stream ravine. Here, a female Superb Lyrebird put on a wonderful show, scratching in the leaf litter. As we were about to leave the southern boundary of the park, a spectacular cliff overlook of the ocean afforded views of several somewhat distant Australian Gannets. Also, a small shearwater went by, perhaps a Little Shearwater, or perhaps something else. I would recommend a trip on a boat heading southeast from Sydney harbor to any birder with the time. Any vessel that went just a few hundred yards off of the coast would be seeing lots of pelagics species, at least under such conditions.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS:
1) Seeing a wild Southern Cassowary up close at Cassowary House B & B, Queensland
2) Swimming (at Gunlom Falls in Kakadu National Park, NT, at The Rock Pools in Litchfield National Park, NT, and, of course, snorkeling off of Cairns, Queensland, with Sunlover Tours)
3) Seeing Regent Bowerbirds at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland
4) Seeing 50+ Hooded Parrots at Pine Creek, NT
5) Seeing crocodiles up close with the family on the Yellow Waters Billabong cruise in Kakadu National Park, NT
1. Southern Cassowary - a female visited Cassowary House Bed and Breakfast near Kuranda, Queensland twice
2. Australian Brushturkey - very common at Centenary Lakes boardwalk, Mount Whitfield trail, and Cassowary House Bed and Breakfast (all in Queensland)
3. Orange-footed Scrubfowl – rather common in thickets and forest of Queensland (places like Centenary Lakes and Cassowary House Bed and Breakfast), and only slightly less common in Darwin and Kakadu, NT, as well
4. Brown Quail – only flushed one covey at Mareeba Wetlands near Mareeba, Queensland, but also found one dead on grill of our car in Kakadu National Park, NT
5. Magpie Goose – most common at Mamukala Wetlands and Yellow Waters billabongs cruise (both places in Kakadu National Park, NT), a few beside the road at other wetland spots, even a few in Queensland
6. Plumed Whistling Duck – many in Kakadu and Queensland wetlands
7. Wandering Whistling Duck – many in Kakadu and Queensland wetlands
8. Black Swan – around 7 birds seen at a large lake (Lake Widdell) with a nuclear power plant south of Singleton in New South Wales
9. Raja Shelduck – Seen mostly in Kakadu National Park, NT, particularly on the Yellow Waters Billabong cruise, and at a couple of roadside wetlands elsewhere in Kakadu NP, NT
10. Maned Duck – perhaps the commonest duck in Queensland and New South Wales, at many water areas, or even in pastures
11. Green Pygmy Goose – every billabong in Kakadu had some and a few billabongs on the Atherton Tablelands in Queensland also
12. Pacific Black Duck –almost as common as Maned Duck, in some places more so, not likely to be avoided in any wetlands
13. Grey Teal – a few seen at a roadside pond in New South Wales and at Sydney Botanical Gardens
14. Chestnut Teal – one resting next to the Opera House in Sydney at the docks
15. Hardhead – half a dozen seen at Hasties Swamp on the Atherton Tablelands of Queensland, also one or two at Yellow Waters Billabong in Kakadu
16. Black-browed Albatross - two cycling up and down among the waves at Royal National Park near Sydney (specifically at Garie Beach in the park, as seen from the shore)
17. Prion, species – a few of these appeared to be flying in the waves off of Garie beach in Royal National Park
18. Shearwater, species – a single shearwater resembling a Little Shearwater in many ways was seen from shore at south end of Royal National Park
19. Australasian Grebe – surprisingly absent from billabongs in Kakadu National Park, but several seen at the billabong of Mareeba Wetlands visitor center near Mareeba, Queensland
20. Great Crested Grebe – a flock of 20 or more at Lake Barine on the Atherton Tablelands, Queensland
21. Black-necked Stork – relatively common as singles and pairs in Kakadu, NT, feeding in wetlands and soaring, I stopped counting at 20, but also a few seen in Queensland ( like at Tyto Wetlands in Ingham)
22. Australian White Ibis – pretty common throughout the trip on lawns and in wet areas
23. Straw-necked Ibis – even more common than white ibis, particularly in Kakadu National Park, NT, but throughout the trip
24. Glossy Ibis – only a few of these seen at Yellow Waters Billabong in Kakadu National Park, NT
25. Royal Spoonbill – relatively common in wet areas of Kakadu National Park, NT, and a few in Queensland also, like at Tyto Wetlands in Ingham
26. Nankeen Night Heron – seen only in Kakadu National Park, NT, on the Yellow Waters Billabong cruise where it was easily seen and fairly common
27. Striated Heron – a few always present on the mudflats at the Cairns esplanade, Queensland
28. Eastern Cattle Egret – a flock among the bovines at Mareeba Wetlands near Mareeba, Queensland
29. White-necked Heron – fairly common on the Yellow Waters Billabong cruise, but also at a few other wetland spots in Kakadu National Park, NT, and in Queensland
30. Great-billed Heron – one flew by showing nicely at the Daintree Car Ferry near Daintree, Queensland
31. Eastern Great Egret – fairly common in wet areas of Kakadu and Queensland
32. Intermediate Egret – fairly common in wet areas of Kakadu and Queensland
33. Pied Heron – only a few seen on the Yellow Waters Billabong cruise and possibly one at Aurora Kakadu Resort
34. White-faced Heron – rather frequently encountered, particularly around beach mudflats, but also at a few inland wetlands as well, during entire trip
35. Little Egret – one definitely seen at the Cairn’s esplanade in Queensland, and probably overlooked elsewhere
36. Pacific Reef Egret – seen off of Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, in the surf shallows, and also at Cape Tribulation in Daintree Reserve, Queensland, also just off the beach in the shallows
37. Australian Pelican – seen singly and in flocks both inland and at the coast, one at Yellow Waters Billabong in Kakadu, a flock at Buffalo Creek near Darwin, and some flocks near Townsend, Queensland, and one in Sydney, etc.
38. Australasian Gannet – two or three seen well but at some distance from a cliff overlook in extreme south Royal National Park near Sydney, New South Wales
39. Brown Booby – several on a concrete platform at a dive location out from Cairns harbor, Queensland
40. Little Pied Cormorant – the commonest cormorant, frequently seen at many wet locations throughout the trip
41. Little Black Cormorant – one at the wetlands at Ubirr Rock in Kakadu, and several in Sydney Harbor, and a few more at other wetland locations, uncommon
42. Australasian Darter – seen with some frequency, particularly in Kakadu on various billabongs, and on the Daintree River, and elsewhere
43. Eastern Osprey – one perched by the East Alligator River (Bardedjilidji Walk) in Kakadu, and several on the pilings when heading out from Cairns, Queensland, harbor by boat, also a nesting pair along the entrance road to Mareeba Wetlands near Mareeba, Queenland, and a few others at large lakes in south Queensland
44. Pacific Baza – one along Gungarre Walk from Aurora Kakadu Resort, four at Mount Whitfield trail parking area in Cairns, Queensland, a couple at Tarzoli Lakes platypus spot on the Atherton Tablelands and another on a telephone wire not far from there in Yungaburra, Queensland
45. Black-shouldered Kite – first seen around Macay, Queensland, on a lamp post over the highway, then fairly common in south Queensland and northern New South Wales in more arid open ranchland
46. Black Kite – common but not quite so common as Whistling Kite, Kakadu and Queensland
47. Whistling Kite –very common in Kakadu and Queensland
48. Brahminy Kite – fairly common near coast or somewhat inland, usually near water, Bicentennial Park, Darwin, NT, Townsville, Lake Morris, and Kuranda, Queensland, etc.
49. White-bellied Sea Eagle – much more common than I had imagined, but still only about 2 or 3 seen on any given day, larger inland bodies of water and rivers, also the sea coast
50. Swamp Harrier – only one seen from highway north of Ingham, Queensland
51. Grey Goshawk – one perched beside road at Yungabarra, Queensland, and a couple elsewhere in the general area
52. Brown Goshawk – pretty common for an accipiter, seen most every day in Kakadu and a few seen in Queensland
53. Collared Sparrowhawk – one seen at turnoff for Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory, and an immature at Sydney, New South Wales
54. Wedge-tailed Eagle – two seen together near a road-killed wallaby south of Litchfield National Park, NT, and a couple soaring together at Woodsreef pit quarry site near Barraba, New South Wales, one soaring between Rockhampton and Mt. Morgan, Queensland, and a few at other wild open areas, about eight or nine seen on the whole trip
55. Little Eagle – only one seen was soaring beside the highway south of Tamworth, New South Wales (light phase bird)
56. Nankeen Kestrel – first seen on hay bale near Mareeba, Queensland, they were common in northern New South Wales ranchland and southern Queensland as well
57. Australian Hobby – one seen and heard at the billabong of Aurora Kakadu Resort, one found dead near Ubirr Rock in Kakadu, one seen flying overhead at Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland, and one seen on telephone wire in northern New South Wales
58. Brown Falcon – rather common in Kakadu, with one to four birds seen most days, also in Queensland but less common, perches on dead trees or wires
59. Peregrine Falcon – at least one in Cairns (the esplanade and downtown), and one at Mount Hypipamee National Park, Queensland, at the crater there
60. Australian Bustard – a family walking in a tall brown-grass field near Mareeba, Queensland, another family of them in same habitat type in southern Queensland ranch territory
61. Red-necked Crake – one seen exceedingly well 2/3 way along boardwalk at Centenary Lakes, Cairns, Queensland, at dusk
62. Pale-vented Bush-hen – one seen rather poorly as it flew into a patch a tall reeds at the Yellow Waters Billabong cruise, Kakadu National Park, NT
63. Purple Swamphen – numerous at Mamukala Wetlands in Kakadu National Park, and abundant at Hasties Swamp, Atherton Tableland, Queensland
64.Dusky Moorhen – abundant at Hasties Swamp on the Atherton Tablelands, Queensland, also at Sydney Botanical Gardens, Tyto Wetlands, a golf course pond north of Townsville, Queensland, and other scattered wet areas
65.Eurasian Coot – not more than a few seen, at town and river crossings of New South Wales, and at Hasties Swamp, Queensland
66. Sarus Crane – seen in roadside fields of the Atherton Tablelands, Queensland, and in southern Queensland in field beside road, also at Hasties Swamp where roosting
67. Brolga – one seen among a flock of Sarus Cranes in southern Queensland ranch country, and one overhead at South Alligator River bridge in Kakadu National Park, NT, and possibly more at Hasties Swamp and at an open expanse south of Ingham, Queensland
68. Bush Stone-curlew – a pair seen and heard at night in plowed field at Kingfisher Park, Queensland, and also a group of ten or more day-roosting at a park in Townsville, Queensland
69. Beach Stone-curlew – a pair seen extremely well and close at north end of Bicentennial Park in Darwin, NT, and several more seen day-roosting under mangroves in Townsville, Queensland
70. Masked Lapwing – very common everywhere, like Sydney Botanical Gardens, Darwin parks and streets, Mareeba Wetlands entrance road, and beside many other roads and in many other fields, sometimes beside water but not always
71. Pacific Golden Plover – only one seen on beach mudflats among other shorebirds at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT
72. Red-capped Plover – fairly common on beaches, Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, the esplanade in Cairns, Queensland, and at Cape Tribulation, Queensland
73. Black-fronted Dotterel – about four individuals seen very well towards the northern part of the Cairns esplanade, Queensland
74. Comb-crested Jacana – best seen at Yellow Waters Billabong cruise and Mamukala Wetlands in Kakadu, NT, and at Mareeba Wetlands’ billabong, and at Tyto Wetlands, Queensland, also seen at a few other places
75. Bar-tailed Godwit –about ten or so present all of the time at the Cairns esplanade, Queensland, also a few at a harbor park in Sydney, New South Wales
76. Whimbrel – slightly more common than Eastern Curlew at the Cairns esplanade, Queensland, about 10 seen
77. Eastern Curlew – very large and conspicuous with longer bill than Whimbrel, and solid crown, about 7 seen at Cairns esplanade, Queensland, often eating crabs
78. Terek Sandpiper – two birds seen well together with other shorebirds at beach mudflats of Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, also 2-3 birds at Cairns esplanade, Queensland, reasonably active birds
79. Common Sandpiper – one at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, on beach
80. Ruddy Turnstone – one in winter plumage at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, on beach
81. Great Knot -15 or so birds together on beach mudflats at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, also about 10 birds on Cairns esplanade mudflats, conspicuous
82. Sanderling – one bird at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin on beach
83. Red-necked Stint – 5 or more at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, on beach, and a couple of these at Cairns esplanade, Queensland, winter plumage only
84. Curlew Sandpiper – three together at north end mudflats of the Cairns esplanade, Queensland
85. Australian Pratincole – only one seen sitting on grassy river mudflats during Yellow Waters Billabong cruise at Kakadu NP, NT, reddish or rusty color in parts of plumage
86. Brown Noddy – Several at a concrete platform out a few kilometers from Cairns harbor, Queensland
87. Silver Gull – The common gull of eastern Australia, seen during the entire trip but mostly near the coast
88. Gull-billed Tern – best seen at the Cairns esplanade where it is the commonest tern, also a few elsewhere
89. Caspian Tern – 2 or 3 sitting with other tern species on the beach mudflats at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT
90. Swift Tern –fairly common tern at coast along beach, Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, Townsville beaches, and other locations
91. Lesser Crested Tern – 5 or more seen at beach mudflats of Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT
92. Roseate Tern – only one seen was out in the bay at Bicentennial Park in Darwin, NT
93. Whiskered Tern – quite a few of these about the boat on Yellow Waters Billabong cruise, Kakadu National Park, NT
94. Common Pigeon – these were present in towns throughout the trip
95. White-headed Pigeon – only one seen was flying by above Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland
96. Spotted Dove – a few well seen at the Cairns esplanade in the grass at the north end, Queensland, and at few at other locations as well
97. Brown Cuckoo-Dove – a few first seen at upper Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Queensland, and then along Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland, and in other wet rainforest areas
98.Common Emerald Dove – first seen in shady rainforest gully at Mt. Whitfield trail near Cairns, Queensland, also common at the feeders of Cassowary House B & B and Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland, and on Mt. Lewis road, Queensland
99. Common Bronzewing – a female seen well in coastal scrub at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, and an adult at a roadside bird feeder near Giraween National Park, Queensland
100. Crested Pigeon – a couple of these birds first seen feeding on the ballfield at Pine Creek, NT, they were not seen in Kakadu National Park, they became common as a fly-by species along roads in the drier open ranch country of southern Queensland and New South Wales, locally plentiful in Sydney
101. Partridge Pigeon – 2 pairs seen well walking along beside highway, each pair on a different day, they were all in the area well north of the Nourlangie Rock turnoff in Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory
102. Diamond Dove – only one pretty little dove of this species seen on a wire between Aurora Kakadu Resort and Jabiru in Kakadu National Park, NT
103. Peaceful Dove – fairly common in small groups around Ubirr Rock in Kakadu National Park, NT, also some in Cairns, Queensland, and elsewhere
104. Bar-shouldered Dove – the commonest dove in Kakadu National Park, NT, usually near some woods, but still in the open, also fairly common in Queensland
105. Wompoo Fruit Dove – first heard on Mt. Whitfield trail, then seen along Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Queensland, common at Cassowary House and nearby Black Mountain Road, and at Daintree River cruise, Queensland
106. Superb Fruit Dove – only one or two heard at Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland
107. Rose-crowned Fruit Dove – fabulous looks at at least one pair near the billabong of Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu, NT, also a female at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT
108. Torresian Imperial Pigeon – a few were flying about the tall buildings beside Bicentennial Park in Darwin, NT
109. Topknot Pigeon – a flock of 12 or so birds flew by along Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Queensland, another probable bird near Cassowary House B & B
110. Red-tailed Black Cockatoo – these fun birds were usually in small groups and were fairly common in sparsely treed areas, usually around recent burnings of the undergrowth in Kakadu National Park, NT, also some seen in Queensland, like at a beach property near Macay
111. Galah – at times abundant, particularly in northern New South Wales rather dry ranchland, but reasonably common throughout the trip overall as well
112. Little Corella – commonest at Kakadu National Park, where often seen in flocks by waterholes at marshes, a very large flock is permanently visible and audible at Aurora Kakadu Resort in the park, a few seen in Queensland too
113. Sulphur-crested Cockatoo – very common in flocks at the edge agricultural land in Queensland, and also visible in forested areas throughout the trip, loud harsh call
114. Cockatiel – a pair seen investigating a tree cavity in Monto, Queensland
115. Rainbow Lorikeet – everywhere common in Queensland and New South Wales, many birds fly in to noisy night roost trees
116. Red-collared Lorikeet – quite common in small flocks flying by or feeding in trees, rather vocal, Darwin area and Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory
117. Scaly-breasted Lorikeet – a few first seen well through spotting scope at eucalyptus forest entrance road to Mareeba wetlands near Mareeba, Queensland, increasingly common as we headed south to southern Queensland and northern New South Wales
118. Varied Lorikeet – a beautiful flock at Ubirr Rock and above Gunlom Falls, Kakadu National Park, NT
119. Musk Lorikeet – one bird nicely seen at a eucalyptus rest stop just east of Warialda, New South Wales, feeding in a tree with Rainbow Lorikeets
120. Little Lorikeet – superb looks at pairs of these birds at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales, and at other locations before and after Barraba, only seen in New South Wales
121. Crimson Rosella – common around the visitors’ center at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, and a few seen southwards from there, like at Royal National Park visitors center near Sydney, New South Wales
122. Pale-headed Rosella – first seen was a small group at Cania Gorge National Park near Monto, Queensland, a few seen along the way south all the way to Warialda and Barraba, New South Wales
123. Eastern Rosella – first seen in Warialda, New South Wales, and then along roadsides all the way to Sydney, Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales, had some
124. Northern Rosella – one seen in Kakadu National Park at Nourlangie Rock entrance trail in the eucalyptus trees, also a couple at Pine Creek near the Railroad Museum in the trees bordering the town’s park
125. Red-rumped Parrot – first seen just south of Warialda, New South Wales, as a flock was perched on wire beside road, later had a good look at a couple of these in the town of Tamworth, New South Wales
126. Hooded Parrot – 50 + present at Pine Creek, NT, beside the Railroad Museum, early to mid-morning
127. Turquoise Parrot two at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales
128.Australian King Parrot – first seen was a flock at Cania Gorge National Park near Monto, Queensland, common near the visitors’ center at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, a few seen just before Giraween National Park, Queensland, as well
129. Red-winged Parrot – uncommon to fairly common, Ubirr Rock and Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT, Pine Creek (near the BP Station), NT, Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, and at a few locations in Queensland as well
130. Double-eyed Fig Parrot – in a tree beside the esplanade in Cairns, Queensland, also a few at Centenary Lakes in Cairns, and a few at upper Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Queensland
131. Pheasant Coucal – most were individuals seen uncommonly in tall grass or thicket areas, and usually in non-breeding plumage, behind cultural center in Cooinda, and the entrance road to Gunlom Falls, Kakadu National Park, NT, also a few in Queensland
132. Little Bronze Cuckoo – fabulous close look at one along the Gungarre Walk at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT
133. Fan-tailed Cuckoo – fairly common and reasonably easy to see and hear at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, also one seen at Woodsreef near Barraba, New South Wales
134. Brush Cuckoo – a few seen along Gungarre Walk at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT, one or two elsewhere as well
135. Eastern Barn Owl – a family of four or so birds roosting and nesting in the eucalyptus just across the road from the driveway at Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland, seen with flashlights just at dusk
136. Barking Boobook – common calling as singles or in pairs at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT, seen with flashlight, call is wup-wup….wup-wup….wup-wup….etc.
137. Papuan Frogmouth – one seen at its day roost at the edge of the orchard at Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland
138. Tawny Frogmouth – one seen at its day roost along the path from Aurora Kakadu Resort to its billabong, Kakadu National Park, NT, another seen at its day roost along entrance road to Mareeba Wetlands near Mareeba, Queensland
139. Spotted Nightjar – a small flock heard above the swimming pool at night at Aurora Kakadu Resort, and one seen pretty well in the car headlights at a marshy river crossing north of the turnoff for the Gunlom Falls entrance road, Kakadu National Park, NT
140. Australian Owlet-nightjar – one seen surprisingly well in the car headlights north of the turnoff for Gunlom Falls entrance road, Kakadu National Park, NT
141. Australian Swiftlet – seen commonly along the Cairns esplanade among the buildings there, Queensland, and at other nearby locations
142. Laughing Kookaburra – a pair first seen and heard at Centenary Lakes park in Cairns, Queensland, after that, rather commonly seen throughout Queensland, for example at Kingfisher Park Lodge and at Bunya Mountains National Park
143. Blue-winged Kookaburra – rather common in Kakadu National Park, particularly around billabongs (like near Aurora Kakadu Resort’s billabong), also noted in the park at Ubirr Rock and near Nourlangie Rock, etc., loud charismatic calling, often as a duet at dusk or in morning
144. Forest Kingfisher – rather commonly seen, not just near water but sometimes in woods, also likes wires, sometimes in pairs
145. Collared Kingfisher – only one seen was perched in tall dark mangroves at north end of Cairns esplanade, Queensland, darker than the species is in Thailand
146. Sacred Kingfisher – rather commonly seen and just as common as Forest Kingfisher
147. Azure Kingfisher – only slightly less common than Forest and Sacred Kingfishers, but only beside water, like at Howard Springs Park stream and at Yellow Waters billabong cruise, Kakadu National Park, Queensland
148. Little Kingfisher – only one seen perched in mangroves on the Daintree River cruise with Chris Dahlberg near Daintree, Queensland
149. Rainbow Bee-eater – seen often in Northern Territory and in Queensland, usually near water, and often on dead branches, a flock with hundreds of birds roosting at edge of lake at Tyto Wetlands, Ingham, Queensland
150. Rainbow Pitta – point-blank fabulous views about a third of the way along the Gungarre Walk trail, of between two to three birds, a little larger than expected
151. Superb Lyrebird – great look at a female foraging at south end of Carrington Road trail in Royal National Park near Sydney, New South Wales
152. Green Catbird – seen and heard near Burton’s Well in Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland
153. Spotted Catbird – fairly common by by sight and sound near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland
154. Golden Bowerbird – a female or immature male nicely seen about half-way along trail atop Mount Lewis, Queensland
155. Regent Bowerbird – stunning male seen in rainforest branch over road near cabins at Bunya Mountains National Park, and another seen flying across road as we were leaving the park, Queensland
156. Satin Bowerbird – fairly common around the cabin clearing at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, both males and females
157. Great Bowerbird – very common around houses at Pine Creek, NT, and some in escarpment country in Kakadu National Park (like Gunlom Falls and near Nourlangie Rock), Queensland, also common around houses on slopes of Townsville, Queensland, and elsewhere
158. White-throated Treecreeper – two different birds well seen creeping up tree trunks along Mount Lewis trail, Queensland
159. Brown Treecreeper – rather common and easily heard as well around Barraba (Mille Creek and Woodsreef), New South Wales, also along south Carrington Road trail in Royal National Park near Sydney, New South Wales
160. Lovely Fairywren – a snazzy-looking male seen above a thicket hedge with a few small pines along side road at Bridge # 4 of Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland
161. Variegated Fairywren – a family group, including a male, was seen in overlook vegetation up the trail from Burton’s Well in Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, also a male at a reststop in Woleemi National Park, New South Wales
162. Superb Fairywren – rather common, with plenty of males, around the cabins and visitors’ center in Bunya Mountains National Park, also a family group at Warialda, New South Wales
163. Red-backed Fairywren – easily seen a Mamukala Wetlands grassland trail in Kakadu NP, NT, also along entrance road at Mareeba Wetlands near Mareeba, Queensland, and at Mount Morgan, Queensland, and a few other places, likes dry grasses with a few trees
164. Macleay's Honeyeater – a couple seen well along Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, and pretty common at the feeders at Cassowary House B & B and the feeders at Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland
165. Bridled Honeyeater – very well seen family group at trees planted near Tarzoli Lakes visitor center/café on the Atherton Tablelands, Queensland, and one seen on the Daintree River cruise near Daintree, Queensland
166. Yellow-faced Honeyeater – first seen were a couple at Giraween National Park, Queensland, and then it was seen a few more times as we headed south in New South Wales (like Woleemi National Park)
167. Varied Honeyeater – seen in trees along the Cairns esplanade, Queensland, and in mangroves in Townsville, Queensland
168. White-gaped Honeyeater – a fairly common bird around Darwin and at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory, and elsewhere
169. Yellow Honeyeater – a couple in a yard near the Cairns esplanade, Queensland
170. White-eared Honeyeater – a pair seen up in a eucalyptus tree at a eucalyptus forest rest stop south of Mount Morgan, Queensland, also one seen further south
171. Yellow-tufted Honeyeater – first seen was a pair at Giraween National Park, Queensland, in the campground, then more were seen in Woleemi National Park, New South Wales
172. Fuscous Honeyeater – relatively common at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales, and at a few other spots
173. White-plumed Honeyeater – relatively common at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales, and at a few other spots
174. Graceful Honeyeater – two different individuals seen well at Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland
175. Yellow-spotted Honeyeater – very common at Mount Whitfield trail, Lake Morris Road, Cassowary House B & B, Black Mountain Road, etc., Queensland
176. Lewin's Honeyeater – heard and seen well at Curtain Fig Tree National Park near Yungaburra, Queensland, and at Lake Barrine, Queensland, higher elevations than the preceeding species, but still in rainforest, call a trill or rattle
177. Noisy Miner – plentiful in Sydney in parks (like the Botanical Gardens), and seen from just south of Mount Morgan, Queensland, and continuing south all the way to Sydney
178. Yellow-throated Miner – only two seen were perced and singing from woods below water tower in Pine Creek, Northern Territory
179. Blue-faced Honeyeater – happily, this neat-looking bird was fairly common around Darwin and in Kakadu National Park, NT, (Bicentennial Park, Aurora Kakadu Resort, town of Jabiru, etc.)
180. White-throated Honeyeater – common to abundant and easily seen since it is a quick responder to swishing in Darwin and Kakadu National Park, NT
181. White-naped Honeyeater – first seen in eucalyptus woods south of Mount Morgan, Queensland, and then at Giraween National Park and Woleemi National Park, New South Wales
182. Little Friarbird – very well seen at Bicentennial Park in Darwin, NT, and common at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT, near the ranger station
183. Helmeted Friarbird – the most frequently encountered friarbird on the trip, seen at the Holiday Inn, Darwin, NT, and above Gunlom Falls, Kakadu National Park, NT, and at Centenary Lakes, Cairns, Queensland, and along Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland, etc.
184. Silver-crowned Friarbird – one in eucalyptus trees on short trail to billabong at Nourlangie Rock
185. Little Wattlebird – a pair at the parking lot at Garie Beach in Royal National Park near Sydney
186. Red Wattlebird – one or more pairs at campground and parking lot of Giraween National Park, Queensland
187. Brown Honeyeater – Ubirr Rock in Kakadu National Park, NT, had a lot of them, as did the mangroves at the north end of Bicentennial Park in Darwin, NT, plenty at Centenary Lakes in Cairns, Queensland, and at the boardwalk near the Cairns airport, Queensland, and in trees near the beach in Townsville, Queensland, etc., one of the commonest birds in the right habitat, also fairly vocal, responds to swishing
188. New Holland Honeyeater – common in the dune shrubbery at Garie Beach in Royal National Park near Sydney
189. White-cheeked Honeyeater – a family of these well seen in eucalyptus trees just north of Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland, and seen again in Woleemi National Park, New South Wales
190. Bar-breasted Honeyeater – one seen very well around a flower in a eucalyptus or paperbark tree behind the Aboriginal Culture Interpretation Center in Cooinda, Kakadu National Park, NT
191. Rufous-banded Honeyeater – first seen at the north end of Bicentennial Park in Darwin, NT, and at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT, and at a few other spots
192. Rufous-throated Honeyeater – first seen at the Window on the Wetlands Interpretive Center in northwest Kakadu National Park, NT, and then at Gungarre Walk at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT, and at a few other spots
193. Eastern Spinebill –a pair at Hypipamee National Park, Queensland, one at Mount Lewis trail, Queensland, and many at Woleemi National Park, New South Wales
194. Dusky Myzomela – common and responds to swishing, Howard Springs Park, NT, and Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT, in fairly moist forest
195. Red-headed Myzomela – a pair seen in dune side trees at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, and several more seen at Buffalo Creek north of Darwin, NT, in the tall mangrove to the right of the boat ramp
196. Scarlet Myzomela –seen in the taller trees at Bridge # 4 of Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland, sings and responds to swishing
197. Spotted Pardalote – fabulous look at one at Woleemi National Park, New South Wales, and another good look at parking lot of visitors’ center in Royal National Park near Sydney, New South Wales
198. Striated Pardalote – seen and heard well in eucalyptus along entrance road at Mareeba Wetlands near Mareeba, Queensland, also several near Barraba, and at a few other spots
199. Speckled Warbler – a few of these interesting birds were seen in the lower tree branches and about the ground at Woodsreef near Barraba, New South Wales
200. Fernwren – excellent point-blank look at only one, scratching the ground under some brambles half way along the Mount Lewis trail, Queensland
201. Atherton Scrubwren – fairly common in small groups on and near the ground along the Mount Lewis trail, Queensland
202. White-browed Scrubwren – one of the commonest birds in scrubby woodlands and rainforest with undergrowth from south of Mount Morgan, Queensland, and onwards south (Cania Gorge National Park, QLD, Bunya Mountains National Park, NSW, etc.)
203. Yellow-throated Scrubwren – first seen was a pair in the road at Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, rather common along the upper reaches of the Mount Lewis road, Queensland, and at a few other higher elevation spots with rainforest
204. Large-billed Scrubwren – responds to swishing, common around Cassowary House B & B, and on the trail up Mount Whitfield, and at other locations
205. Brown Gerygone – nicely seen pair at Curtain Fig Tree National Park near Yungaburra, Queensland, and at Lake Barrine, Queensland
206. Large-billed Gerygone – one well seen in tall mangroves on the right side of the boat ramp at Buffalo Creek north of Darwin, NT
207. Green-backed Gerygone – reminded me a little bit of a female American Redstart, one seen at the beginning of the Gungarre Walk trail at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT
208. White-throated Gerygone – one seen well at a small eucalyptus woods patch behind the motel in Monto, Queensland
209. Fairy Gerygone – a beautiful male seen singing in lower branches along the Mount Whitfield trail, Queensland, its song was heard often and it was occasionally seen along Lake Morris Road near Cairns, at Cassowary House B & B, and on the Daintree River cruise, Daintree, Queensland
210. Mountain Thornbill – common along the trail at Mount Lewis, Queensland
211. Brown Thornbill – first seen at a eucalyptus rest stop south of Monto, Queensland, and fairly common at sites southwards from there
212. Buff-rumped Thornbill – one or more seen around Mille Creek near Barraba, at Woodsreef near Barraba, New South Wales, and maybe at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland
213. Yellow-rumped Thornbill – very bright rumps, likes to forage on ground and then fly up into trees, common beside our cabin at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, and a few at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales
214. Yellow Thornbill – one at Giraween National Park, Queensland
215. Striated Thornbill – one at Mille Creek near Barraba and one or more at Woleemi National Park, New South Wales
216. Grey-crowned Babbler – fairly common about houses in Pine Creek, NT, and a couple at Casuarina Reserve north of Darwin, NT, also a few elsewhere
217. Chowchilla – only seen and heard on Mount Lewis, Queensland, about half way along the walking trail (3 birds) and at the parking area woods at the beginning of the trail (2 birds), digs in the leaf litter
218. Eastern Whipbird – seen less than heard (about 7 seen the entire trip), the call is a common noise at Cassowary House B & B, Queensland, and along Black Mountain Road near there, also fairly common along Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Queensland, and at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, usually near ground
219. Yellow-breasted Boatbill – a couple first seen and heard in the rainforest along Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Queensland, and a bird or two hung out around the Cassowary House B & B cabin, Queensland, also along Black Mountain Road near there
220. Black Butcherbird – one at Casuarina Reserve, NT, one at the cabin at Cassowary House B & B, QLD, one at Centenary Lakes park in Cairns, QLD
221. Grey Butcherbird – first one seen on outskirts of Mundaburra, Queensland, then seen with some intermittent regularity as we headed on south through New South Wales, likes dry open woodlands, roadsides, about 5 to 7 seen in all
222. Pied Butcherbird – only 3 seen in Kakadu in open woodland at Aurora Kakadu Resort near ranger station and on the road between Jabiru and Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu NP, NT, more common along roadside and on wires in Queensland, maybe 20 or 30 seen overall
223. Australian Magpie – common roadside bird throughout the trip but a little less common in Northern Territory
224. Pied Currawong – one of the most conspicuous common birds at Bunya Mountains National Park, and many seen elsewhere throughout the trip, from Lake Morris Road near Cairns, QLD, all the way south to Sydney, NSW, says its name “Currawong” after a fashion
225. White-breasted Woodswallow – common around Darwin, NT, and throughout the trip in Queensland and New South Wales, often perched in small groups on wires or soaring overhead
226. Masked Woodswallow – a pair seen flying across road at eye level where a wooded stream crossed the road south of Southhampton, Queensland
227. Little Woodswallow – first seen was one at end of Aurora Kakadu Resort’ billabong, then several circling above a eucalypt woodland not too far from the same resort, then a small group in the air at the top of Gunlom Falls, Kakadu National Park, NT
228. Black-faced Cuckooshrike –fairly common on wires and about town in Pine Creek, NT, not seen much elsewhere
229. Barred Cuckooshrike – a few perched in the tops of a tree along Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland, also seen at a few other spots in Queensland but not a very common bird overall
230. White-bellied Cuckooshrike – quite common in Darwin and in Kakadu National Park, NT, and in Queensland as well, seems to prefer drier outback rather than wet rainforest, although it does generally like trees
231. Common Cicadabird – a beautiful look at a male of the species along the eucalyptus portion of Gungarre Walk at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu NP, NT, also a female or two there
232. White-winged Triller – nicely seen in the trees by the billabong at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu NP, NT, only a few more seen elsewhere
233. Varied Triller – rather commonly seen in trees in Kakadu National Park and around Darwin, NT, also rather common along Lake Morris Road near Cairns, and along the Mount Whitfield trail, and at Black Mountain Road, Queensland, and elsewhere, often heard as well
234. Grey Whistler – best seen was a calling individual along the Mount Whitfield trail near Cairns, Queensland, a few more seen elsewhere but not many overall
235. Australian Golden Whistler – individuals and pairs encountered with some regularity in somewhat higher elevation rainforest, upper Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Mount Lewis trail, Mount Bunya NP, Queensland, etc.
236. Rufous Whistler – commonest in the eucalypt portion of Gungarre Walk and in the eucalyptus trees between Bardedjilidji Walk and the East Alligator River, in Kakadu National Park, also seen as an uncommon bird elsewhere, but, again, mostly from Kakadu National Park, NT
237. Little Shrikethrush – one of the commonest birds in rainforest throughout the trip, even reasonably common along Gungarre Walk at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu NP, NT, but also at Lake Morris Road, Mount Whitfield trail, Cassowary House B & B, Black Mountain Road, Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland, etc
238. Grey Shrikethrush – best seen at Bunya Mountains National Park, QLD, where reasonably common, but also seen at other rainforest locations from time to time, uncommon
239. Australasian Figbird – seen as a common bird in treetops and even on wires about towns and elsewhere in Northern Territory and in northern Queensland, less common further south, rather noisy and conspicuous
240. Olive-backed Oriole – perhaps a little less common than Green Oriole but still common enough, in thickets and woods in Kakadu National Park and in Darwin, NT
241. Green Oriole – common, with an often heard call in thickets and woods in Kakadu National Park and in Darwin, NT
242. Spangled Drongo – fairly common and mostly seen in lusher woodlands at Kakadu and around Darwin, NT, the shoulder is blue enough to contrast with the black body overall, also seen in Queensland
243. Willie Wagtail – a very conspicuous bird which is often about at the edge of water or on snags or rocks just above lawns and roadsides, waves its tail from side to side, fairly common Kakadu and Queensland particularly
244. Northern Fantail – only seen a couple of times, was best seen at the north end of Bicentennial Park in Darwin sitting on a wire for a little while, longer tail and less active than most fantails
245. Grey Fantail – common at Mount Lewis trail where it is a darker permanent resident subspecies, migratory race birds seen at Lake Morris Road near Cairns, at Black Mountain Road, and at Bunya Mountains National Park, QLD
246. Rufous Fantail –common in mixed species flocks at Cassowary House B & B, and at other wet rainforest locations in Queensland (like Kingfisher Park Lodge)
247. Arafura Fantail – fairly common along Gungarre Walk at Aurora Kakadu Resort, Kakadu National Park, NT
248. Spectacled Monarch – one of the most common birds in mixed species flocks in the wet tropical rainforest, Mount Whitfield trail, Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Centenary Lakes Park, Cassowary House B & B, Black Mountain Road, Daintree, Queensland, etc.
249. White-eared Monarch –a few seen together in a mixed species flock mid-way along Lake Morris Road near Cairns, Queensland
250. Pied Monarch – a few seen at mid and upper reaches of Lake Morris Road near Cairns, and at Kingfisher Park Lodge, Queensland
251. Magpie-lark – common walking about on the lawns along roadsides throughout the trip
252. Leaden Flycatcher – a fairly common flycatcher in woodlands of Kakadu National Park, NT, frequently shakes tail in little side to side movements, female plumage somewhat more frequent than male plumage, responds to swishing
253. Broad-billed Flycatcher – only positively identified one in mangrove edge on the Daintree River cruise, QLD, with Chris Dahlberg, another probable one at Tyto Wetlands near Ingham, QLD
254. Shining Flycatcher – about three or four seen in rainforest beside the stream at Howard Springs Park, Northern Territory, another seen in streamside forest at the base of Gunlom Falls in Kakadu National Park, NT
255. Paperbark Flycatcher - distinctive call and fairly common at water edges in Kakadu National Park, NT, where Yellow Waters Billabong cruise and Mamukala Wetlands were a few of its favorite haunts
256. Torresian Crow – fairly common throughout the trip, usually at roadsides, call is a ‘cah cah’ kind of thing that one expects from a crow
257. Australian Raven – one seen just south of the Sydney airport, New South Wales, and a few others in northern New South Wales and possibly in Queensland, note ruffed feathers of throat and call is awww-awww-aaauuuurrrrrggghhh (very distinctive call)
258. White-winged Chough – a couple flocks of 10 or so birds on the ground under eucalypt forest at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales, also one beside road near Woleemi National Park, New South Wales, lifts tail occasionally when foraging
259. Apostlebird – small groups seen uncommonly throughout the southern half of the trip, first group seen in dry forest along the road in Mareeba Wetlands near Mareeba, Queensland, noisy raucous call
260. Victoria's Riflebird – several females and one male along mid and upper reaches of Lake Morris Road, a male and a couple females at Cassowary House B & B, and a few along Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House, Queensland
261. Grey-headed Robin – two nicely seen at Hypipamee National Park, Queensland, on ground in woods, also one seen on the road up Mount Lewis to the Mount Lewis trail, Queensland
262. White-browed Robin – one bird seen in shrubbery near lake at Tyto Wetlands near Ingham, Queensland
263. Mangrove Robin – several in the tall mangrove forest north of the Cairns esplanade, Queensland
264. Pale-yellow Robin – first seen were several along Mount Whitfield trail near Cairns, Queensland, also pretty common along Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, Queensland, they perch in a peculiar way on the side of trunks
265. Eastern Yellow Robin – first seen were birds at Bunya Mountains Nationa Park, Queensland, were they were fairly common, a few seen at sites south of there
266. Hooded Robin – 2 or 3 birds seen around a eucalypt clearing at Woodsreef near Barraba, New South Wales, they act like Eastern Bluebirds of the USA
267. Lemon-bellied Flyrobin – common bird in woodlands of Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory, a few seen elsewhere
268. Jacky Winter – first seen perched on a fence like a Phoebe at Warialda, New South Wales, then one seen at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales, and one or two more along road south of there
269. Rose Robin – one male and one female near an overlook near the cabins at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, also a male at Woodsreef near Barraba
270. White-backed Swallow – a small flock overhead at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales
271. Welcome Swallow –not too different from Barn Swallows in appearance and about as common as that species in the USA, frequently flies close to people, good numbers at Sydney Botanical Gardens, New South Wales, and at the Cairns esplanade, Queensland, among other places
272. Fairy Martin – a few very close-flying individuals sporting their head color well at the north end of the Cairns esplanade, Queensland, some seen in the distance at the South Alligator River area in Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory
273. Tree Martin – one seen flying around the dune area at Casuarina Reserver north of Darwin, Northern Territory, and many more seen on the Daintree River cruise, Daintree, Queensland
274. Tawny Grassbird – one seen in tall grass in Kakadu National Park, NT, at the parking lot for the South Alligator River bridge, several seen in the tall grasses along the lake trail at Tyto Wetlands near Ingham, Queensland, where it was fairly common
275. Golden-headed Cisticola – rather common when in the correct tall grass habitat, several behind the Cultural Interpretation Center in Cooinda, Kakadu National Park, NT, and quite a few at the walk at Mamakula Wetlands, Kakadu NP, NT, and also some in the tall grass by the South Alligator River parking lot, Kakadu NP, NT, and some at Tyto Wetlands near Ingham, Queensland
276. Canary White-eye – only a couple seen along the first part of the Gungarre Walk at Aurora Kakadu Resort, and maybe five or so seen at the vegetation bordering the South Alligator River near the bridge parking lot, Kakadu National Park, NT
277. Silvereye – rather common at times, and usually in small groups in wet rainforest in Queensland, like along Lake Morris Road near Cairns, and at Black Mountain Road, and along Mount Lewis Road, and along Mount Whitfield trail
278. Metallic Starling – very nice looks at a flock of these feeding in a jungle tree beside the boardwalk at Centenary Lakes park in Cairns, Queensland, also flocks of these roam about the esplanade and town of Cairns, particularly in the evening, and also a flock seen at Daintree, Queensland
279. Common Myna – a fairly common bird about towns like Cairns, Queensland, and Sydney, New South Wales
280. Common Starling – the farthest north I saw these was Monto, Queensland, the farthest south was Sydney, New South Wales, rather common in between
281. Bassian Thrush – absolutely perfect views of two different individuals at Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland, one in the road and another on the jungle path below the visitors’ center
282. Common Blackbird – one seen at Warialda, New South Wales, and one seen near the river at Barraba, New South Wales
283. Mistletoebird – a fairly common but somewhat flightly and elusive bird of the treetops, seen almost everywhere on the trip
284. Olive-backed Sunbird – a wild pair inside the airport in Cairns, Queensland, and fairly common around the Cairns Botanical Gardens, QLD, also fairly common around the beginning of Black Mountain Road near Cassowary House B & B, QLD
285. House Sparrow –in towns in Queensland and New South Wales
286. Diamond Firetail – three or four of these surprisingly beautiful birds by the gate at Mille Creek near Barraba, New South Wales
287. Red-browed Finch – first seen in the pine plantations around bridge # 4 of Black Mountain Road, where fairly common, it was the most common at Kingfisher Park Lodge bird feeders, and it was seen at other places in Queensland and New South Wales from time to time, usually in pairs or small groups
288. Crimson Finch – fairly common in the tall grasses and shrubs of the Mamukala Wetlands trail in Kakadu National Park, NT, also reasonably common along the lake trail at Tyto Wetlands near Ingham, Queensland, usually in family groups
289. Masked Finch – seen behind the Cultural Interpretive Center in Cooinda, and beside the bird blind at Mamukala Wetlands, Kakadu National Park, NT
290. Long-tailed Finch – several groups seen along the Mamukala Wetlands trail, Kakadu National Park, NT
291. Double-barred Finch – perhaps the commonest of the finches throughout the trip, but still rather uncommon, seen at Mamukala Wetlands trail, Kakadu, NT, at the gate to the sewerage ponds north of Darwin, NT, at Mille Creek near Barraba, NSW, and at a few other locations
292. Scaly-breasted Munia – small flock at north end of Cairns esplanade, Queensland, and a few elsewhere
293. Chestnut-breasted Mannikin – two at the north end of Bicentennial Park in Darwin, NT, and one in tall grass at the parking lot at the South Alligator River bridge, Kakadu National Park, NT
294. Australian Pipit seen from time to time along roads in the short grass or on fence posts, it likes dairy country, between Yungaburra and Mareeba, Queensland, and between Rockhampton and Mount Morgan, Queensland, and at a few other places