Trip report by Dusan Brinkhuizen guiding for Mindo Bird Tours
For the latest birding news in Ecuador go to AvesEcuador.com
INTRODUCTION
The Chocó is a biodiversity hotspot that extends from easternmost Panama (Darién) to the Pacific coast of Colombia and Ecuador. With up to 16.000 mm. of rain per year in some areas this is probably the wettest place on earth. The Chocó Endemic Bird Area supports the largest number of restricted-range birds of any EBA in the Americas with over 50 species being endemic to the area. Thus, the Chocó is an important region not to be missed by the serious birder. Many of these specialties are only found in South-west Colombia and North-west Ecuador. North-west Ecuador is a safe and accessible region with many reserves, birding trails and comfortable lodges, being a perfect destination to explore the Chocó. Sadly, the Chocó is also one of the most threatened regions in South America. Massive logging, palm cultivation and cattle-grazing make forests disappear at alarming rates. Birding the Chocó is a good way to support local tourism and helps to keep the flora and fauna of this incredibly diverse region protected from extinction.
The first week of our tour is based at Reserva Las Gralarias. This reserve covers over 400 hectares of Chocó Cloud-forest and has a very comfortable lodge. It is located in the Mindo region which is one of the Important Bird Areas (IBA) in Ecuador. All the famous birding sites are at short distance from the lodge and easily reached by car. In the first week we do daytrips covering different elevations ranging from 3400m to 400m asl. In this way we target a wide range of bird species and visit a nice set of different habitats. Our second week is a lowland extension to Playa de Oro. It is one of the last places where you can bird in vast areas of truly pristine Chocó lowland forests (photo).
Birding the Chocó can be tough and rolling up all the endemics in one trip is nearly impossible. However, by including some “new” and “hot” sites in the itinerary we got close! To give you an idea of our success here just a few of the rare Chocó endemics that we saw: Rufous-crowned Antpitta, Five-colored Barbet, Star-chested Treerunner, Purplish-mantled Tanager (photo), Chocó Vireo, Indigo Flowerpiercer, Berlepsch’s Tinamou, Black Solitaire, Scarlet-breasted Dacnis, Moss-backed Tanager, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Rose-faced Parrot, Uniform Treehunter, Chocó Trogon, Hoary Puffleg and many more! We recorded 453 species → check out the trip list!
TOUR ITINERARY
25 - Oct Quito → Yanacocha → Reserva Las Gralarias
26 - Oct Reserva Las Gralarias
27 - Oct Milpe Bird Sanctuary → Mindo
28 - Oct Rio Silanche Bird Sanctuary
29 - Oct Mashpi Reserve → Cueva de los Tayos
30 - Oct Refugio Paz de las Aves → Tandayapa Valley
31 - Oct Bellavista Cloud-forest Reserve→ Quito
2 - Nov Quito → Salinas → Playa de Oro, Tigrillo Lodge
3 - Nov Playa de Oro, Pueblo trail
4 - Nov Playa de Oro, Santo del Peña trail
5 - Nov Playa de Oro, Paila trail
6 - Nov Playa de Oro → Yalare → Tundaloma
7 - Nov Tundaloma → Yalare → Durango
8 - Nov Cerro Golondrinas → Lago San Pablo → Quito
DAY-BY-DAY REPORTS
25 - Oct - Quito → Yanacocha → Reserva Las Gralarias
The Yanacocha reserve is located on the north-western flank off the Pichincha Volcano just outside off Quito at 3400m. It is owned by the Jocotoco Foundation and the birding is superb. It is probably the best and for sure the easiest place to bird temperate forest on the west-slope of the Andes in Ecuador. It is home to the critically endangered Black-breasted Puffleg. Unfortunately, recent sightings of this rare species are extremely few (June might be your best bet to try). The drive up to the reserve goes through pastures and secondary habitat. We stopped here for a singing Tawny Antpitta that we saw briefly. Black Flowerpiercer and Plain-colored seedeater were also seen. At the reserve entrance the habitat looks much better: steep cliffs with pristine montane forest and the view is spectacular. The Inca-trail is relatively flat and provides easy birding. At the start of the trail we heard an Occelated Tapaculo calling down in the valley. Blackish Tapaculo’s were calling at closer range. The first flock were mainly Glossy and Masked Flowerpiercers. We heard a single high pitched note of Barred Fruiteater and some of us lucked into seeing the male. At the start flock activity was low and we had to pick up species one by one. A Smokey Bush-tyrant gave good views as it was perched right in the open at eye-height. A pair of Powerfull Woodpeckers was heard next to the trail. We had to wait for them to come out and later we got rewarded by nice views of this large woodpecker species. Our first proper flock had Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, Hooded Mountain-tanager, Superciliaried Hemispingus, Spectacled Whitestart, Blue-backed Conebills, White-throated Tyrannulet, Cinereous Conebill, White-banded Tyrannulet and many Masked and Glossy Flowerpiercers. The hummingbird feeders at the reserve, especially the ones at the end of the Inca-trail, are rewarding. Many different species of hummingbirds were seen in a short time at close range. The Sword-billed Hummingbird was no doubt the most spectacular one and the large-sized Great Sapphirewing was also impressive with its relatively slow wing beat. Both Sapphire-vented Puffleg and Golden-breasted Puffleg were regular visitors as well as the smaller Tyrian Metaltail. The Buff-winged Starfrontlet was the most abundant hummer at the feeders. Good stuff we added on the way back included Crowned Chat-tyrant and Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet. Back at the ranger station we got some extraordinary views of a pair of Tawny Antpitta’s (photo). From Yanacocha we continued on birding along the “Eco ruta”, the old road between Nono and Mindo. Habitat along this route changes slowly as we drop in elevation. The fast flowing river is a good spot for White-capped Dipper, a species that we got to see well. A male Torrent Duck was very shy and was seen only briefly. After about two hours driving the route meets up with the Tandayapa Valley. Here we watched a male Andean Cock-of-the-Rock that was being noisy at its playground. A little later a stunning Plate-billed Mountain-toucan perched in the same tree. A small mixed-species flock added some nice species, including two Blackburnian Warblers, one of them still in breeding plumage. A pair of Toucan Barbets was also present and showed well, a nice Chocó endemic to end the day with.
26 - Oct - Reserva Las Gralarias
Reserva Las Gralarias is one of the best birding sites in the Mindo area. The reserve consists of mainly pristine cloud-forest ranging from 1700 to 2300m in elevation. The birding on the trails and from the lodge is superb. The feeders at the lodge attract a good set of hummers, including a few Chocó endemics. We started an early morning hike to catch up with the dawn chorus. A pair of Red-faced Spinetail responded well to the tape and Rufous-crowned Tody-flycatcher was heard only. The rattling song of the Spillman’s Tapaculo and the three notes of the Yellow-breasted Antpitta were commonly heard inside the forest. Our first canopy flock produced nice views of Streaked Tuftedcheek, Blue-winged Mountain-tanager, Blue-capped Tanager, Golden Tanager, Brown-capped Vireo, White-tailed Tyrannulet, Pearled Treerunner and the drab (but Chocó endemic) Dusky Bush-tanager. A pair of Chocó Brush-finches (nowadays a split from Tricolored Brush-finch) was seen briefly as well as a female Wedge-billed Hummingbird. Further along the walk we found a Rufous-headed Pygmy-tyrant that showed well in the understory. A pair of Masked Trogons was perched in full view a little later. At the same spot we heard a Strong-billed Woodcreeper. The bird came right in after playback showing its massive bill at close range. We tried for the elusive Moustached Antpitta with playback of song in a known territory. Soon the bird responded by singing back from the understory. We placed the speaker on the trail and waited in silence. For a split second it jumped out on the trail in front of us. It went so fast that some of us actually missed the bird! A group of Plate-billed Mountain-toucans came through that showed well. A loud calling Barred Hawk flew over and was seen by some of us while a pair of Green-and-black Fruiteaters showed well in a tree. We glimpsed a small herd of Dark-backed Wood-quails that had crossed the trail. They responded to playback with their loud calls but unfortunately moved away from us. It started to get hot and activity dropped. At the lodge we had a drink while we watched the feeders. They attract large numbers of hummingbirds, usually about twelve species. Buff-tailed Coronets and Fawn-breasted Brilliants are the most abundant. The common Chocó endemic hummers are stunning: The Violet-tailed Sylph with its long tail streamers (photo), the colourful Velvet-purple Coronet and the elegant Empress Brilliant. The male Booted Racket-tail often steals the show as well as the “bubble bee” Purple-throated Woodstar. Two rare species were seen at the feeders during our stay, namely White-tailed Hillstar and Hoary Puffleg. After lunch we birded the road, but the clouds came in quickly, minimising visibility. We hoped to find the adult Spectacled Bear that was seen that day by others, but we only found the traces of it. A nice male Golden-headed Quetzal that was inspecting a cavity was our best bird of the afternoon walk.
27 - Oct - Milpe Bird Sanctuary → Mindo
The Milpe reserve is located in the foothills of the western Andes at 1100m. This relatively small reserve, owned by the Mindo Cloud-forest Foundation, offers some great birding. It is one of the best places to see the Club-winged Manakin. Bird activity can be good at times, especially when cloudy, as it was on our visit. We started with a loose association of birds at the entrance which included some target species like Chocó Warbler and Ochre-breasted Tanager. A male American Redstart was also present in the flock. At a particular spot Immaculate Antbirds were showing themselves extremely well (photo), an indication of a small antswarm. Bay Wren and Scale-crested Pygmy-tyrant were also present at this site. Lower down the trail we got our first Club-winged Manakins. Two males were chasing each other continuously. Activity of the manakins was high with many displaying males heard. Soon we got a “lekking” male into view. The male makes a bizarre sound, exclusively with the movement of its wings, by flipping them up during a little dance, a spectacular performance. Golden-winged Manakin and White-bearded Manakin were other species of manakins seen. Close to the Club-winged Manakin lek we saw both Rufous and Broad-billed Momot. A Pale-vented Thrush and Yellow-collared Chloroponias were spotted high up in the canopy. We heard two species of trogon, namely Collared Trogon and Chocó Trogon. The latter responded to our whistle as a male came in nicely. At the forest edge we run into a “monster flock” of birds with at least 48 species participating in the flock. The best birds included a stunning male Glistening-green Tanager, Rufous-winged Tyrannulet, Rufous-throated Tanager, Rufous-rumped Antwren, Slaty Antwren, White-shouldered Tanager, Yellow-tufted Dacnis, Tawny-breasted Myiobius, two American Redstarts, two Blackburnian Warblers, Acadian Flycatcher, Summer Tanager and many more! On our way back we heard Esmeraldas Antbird and a Western Woodhaunter came in to playback of song. At the mirador we watched a nest with two chicks that were being fed by a Green-fronted Lancebill. Back at the parking lot we had lunch and watched the hummingbird feeders. The tiny Green Thorntails were abundant, as well as the larger Green-crowned Brilliants. A White-whiskered Hermit came in a few times, as did a male White-necked Jacobin. Either a Purple- or Blue-chested Hummingbird came in shortly on the flowers. An interesting record as both species normally do not occur this high in elevation. Unfortunately, the bird did not return and we could not determine its identification. After lunch we went to the town of Mindo to get some “open country” species. A scrubby field just outside of town was very productive. Blue-black Grassquit, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Yellow-bellied Seedeaters and Black-and-white Seedeaters were feeding in the field. Both Bran-colored Flycatcher and Rusty-margined Flycatcher showed well. Shiny Cowbirds and a nice Masked Water-tyrant were foraging on the short grass. Our best bird at the spot was a family group of Lesser Elaenias (photo). Identification of this species is very complicated and there are very few documented records of this species in Ecuador. We documented our observation properly by taking photos and sound recordings. Our recordings matched with the recordings made by the late Paul Coopmans (Niels Krabbe pers.comm) thereby confirming our identification. The race of Lesser Elaenia (brachyptera) found in NW-Ecuador is vocally different from the widespread race and probably involves a separate species, namely Nariño Elaenia. Our sighting involves the first documented record for the Mindo region. Back at Reserva Las Gralarias we tried for Rufous-bellied Nighthawk at dusk. A Cloud-forest Pygmy-owl was heard in the distance but too far to call in. We whistled the song of the nighthawk and one flew right over our heads. As we followed the bird in the spotlight it responded by uttering a few low calls. Great bird before bedtime!
28 - Oct - Rio Silanche Bird Sanctuary
Rio Silanche is another popular birding spot. The small reserve is also managed by the Mindo Cloud-forest foundation and is mostly secondary habitat at about 500m elevation. It is an island of left-over habitat that still holds a good number of interesting birds. Sadly, the surrounding area is mostly plantations and it seems to be the last refuge for some species. As a result the reserve can be very birdy at times. It is a nice introduction to the Chocó lowlands but if you want to get rare “quality” Chocó species a visit to Rio Canandé and/or Playa de Oro is required. We had a successful day at Rio Silanche and recorded a total of 145 species that day. In the morning we started with a small canopy flock that was watched from the canopy tower. The best birds included a pair of Slate-throated Gnatcatchers and Brown-capped Tyrannulets, both species at touching distance. Dozens of Palm and Blue-gray Tanagers overruled the flock and were foraging in the fruiting trees. A few Pale-mandibled Aracaris came in to feed on fruits as well. Inside the forest we run into another mixed-species flock with some goodies like Orange-fronted Barbet, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Guira Tanager and Rufous-winged Tanager. A pair of White-whiskered Puffbirds showed well and both Chestnut-backed and Bicolored Antbird were seen in the understory. Our rarest bird of the day was a sub-adult Plumbeous Hawk that perched at close range (photo). Back at the car we followed a nice understory flock. Birds in the flock included Western Slaty Antshrike, Checker-throated Antwren, Dot-winged Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Yellow-margined Flatbill, Greenish Elaenia, Sulphur-rumped Myiobius, Plain Xenops, Slate-throated Gnatcatcher, Scale-crested Pygmy-tyrant and Red-rumped Woodpecker. At the canopy tower we watched a Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift and some unidentified Chaetura, probably Chimney Swifts that flew by swiftly. We had good views of both Blue-crowned Manakin (photo) and White-bearded Manakin inside the forest. A flock of larger birds included a pair of Guayaquil Woodpeckers, Purple-throated Fruitcrows and Scarlet-rumped Caciques, which all showed well. A beautiful female Rufous-tailed Jacamar was seen near the entrance. On our way back we did some roadside birding that yielded Snowy-throated Kingbird and Black-winged Saltator. We made a stop to try for the rare Brown Wood-rail at a known territory. Unfortunately, the bird did not respond to playback this time. But, at the little pond we did see a nice Northern Waterthrush, a rare migrant in Ecuador.
29 - Oct - Mashpi Reserve → Cueva de los Tayos
The road to the Mashpi reserve is a new and “hot” birding spot. It is easily reached by car from Pacto and offers superb roadside birding around 1300m elevation. Some Chocó specialties seem to be more common here then elsewhere, plus chances to see some major rarities are in store. We started with a cracker namely an adult Indigo Flowerpiercer. The bird sang continuously from a treetop and showed itself well. Mashpi has become a reliable site for this rarity, especially the steep wall at the entrance road. Short after getting the flowerpiercer we ticked in two nice Moss-backed Tanagers and a Yellow-collared Chloroponia in a single tree. Three Rosy-faced Parrots flew over and a female Black-and-white Becard was seen well. The first flock we encountered yielded species like Glisting-green Tanager, Rufous-throated Tanager and Chocó Brush-finches. A Black Solitaire flew out of the tree but was glimpsed only. A pair of Slaty Spinetail showed itself right in the open at a fallen tree. A certain spot along the road was rewarding. First an Emeraldas Antbird was seen and a little later a Uniform Treehunter turned up. A pair of Uniform Antshrike was calling and the male was seen shortly. We got great views of a Rufous-rumped Antwren that foraged at close distance. Spotted Barbtail came in after we played its call. Then I heard a familiar song from the canopy; it was a Chocó Vireo! We were lucky as the sun was breaking the clouds and we could actually see the bird well. The singing bird was accompanied by a second bird, two Chocó Vireos! I had discovered this rare bird here in June 2010, but had only seen single birds. Nice that it found a mate! Later a sharp whistle drew our attention and soon a superb male Orange-breasted Fruiteater popped up right in front of us at eye-level. On our way back we run into a flock that produced great views of both Black-chinned Mountain-tanager and Pacific Tuftedcheek. We played for Whiskered Wren and an aggressive pair came right in. After lunch we drove to the Guayllabamba River to look for Oilbirds. In a small gulch we watched about ten of these mysterious creatures, some at very close range (photo).
30 - Oct - Refugio Paz de las Aves → Tandayapa Valley
Refugio Paz de las Aves is a magical place. The brothers Paz own a small property of cloud-forest near Nanegalito and bring the forest alive. Antpittas, antthrushes, pihas, wood-quails, quail-doves, guans, barbets, toucanets, tanagers, dippers and even Torrent Ducks, you name it, Angel Paz have had them at his feet! Every morning, 365 days a year, the brothers feed worms and fruits to birds inside the forest, birds that got slowly habituated to human presence. Most of the birds he feeds are elusive species and watching them at close range is a unique experience. Still, these are wild birds and every day turns out different, nothing is guaranteed! We started at dawn at the lek of Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (photo). Activity was good with at least four displaying males. From the hide we watched these beautiful cotingas for about half an hour. The holy grail of the reserve named “Maria” was standing just outside the hide waiting for worms. Maria is a Giant Antpitta that has been fed by Angel for at least five years. The bird is rather tame and we watched her from 2m distance. A second Giant Antpitta named “Manuelito” was seen on the trail further up. Angel went to look for the Yellow-breasted Antpitta down at the river, but came back with negative news: the bird had not come to feed for the last four days. We went to look for “Shakira”, the Ochre-breasted Antpitta, but according to Angel she was away on concert that day. There was a deep silence at the fruit feeders. There was no bird activity at all. A large raptor flew through the forest. No wonder there were no birds at the feeders! According to Angel it was a juvenile Black-and-chestnut Eagle. Unfortunately, we could not confirm his identification as we only glimpsed the bird. On our way back we got some nice views of a Moustached Antpitta (photo). The hummingbird feeders attracted many of the same species that we had seen at Reserva Las Gralarias. The Tawny-bellied Hermit was the only “new” bird at the feeders, a species that we had seen in the forest before. For pre-lunch we had delicious “bolones de verde” and “empanadas con queso”. We continued on to the Tandayapa Valley for some roadside birding. It was noon, hot and sunny, a bad time for birding. In the lower stretch we saw very few birds. An Andean Cock-of-the-Rock chick on the nest was a nice sighting. Higher up the road close to the Bellavista Lodge, was more promising as it got a little cooler. We run into a small “bamboo flock” and picked out some of the better species namely Western Hemispingus, Rusty-winged Barbtail and Plushcap. We got a few small flocks along the way with a nice Grass-green Tanager being a favorite. Twice we were lucky to watch a Slaty Finch foraging on the road. The birds seemed to be feeding on the little seeds that were blooming along the roadside. By staying in the car and using it as a hide we got great looks at this scarce and erratic species. After dinner some of us went to look for the Colombian Screech-owl. The species (formerly a subspecies of Rufescent Screech-owl) has a territory close to the Las Gralarias Guesthouse. We got a response within 15 min. after playing the call. It took us a while to locate the calling bird, but eventually got it in full view in the spotlight.
31 - Oct - Bellavista Cloud-forest Reserve→ Quito
The Bellavista area is a great birding spot that provides easy roadside birding. You will pass good patches of cloud-forest if you take the “Eco-ruta” from San Tadeo back towards Tandayapa. The highest parts are the best sites for the rare Tanager Finch, especially the curve with the dripping water tank. We searched for the species two days in a row, but unfortunately no success. Luck is needed for this rare bird. We did see other interesting birds, but it was hard for us to add new ones, since we had seen most of them at Reserva Las Gralarias. We tried to tape in Occelated Tapaculos at several different stakeouts but none of them came into view. They respond well to playback, but rarely come in close. We enjoyed a group of the beautiful Turquoise Jays and a Plain-breasted Hawk showed well. A neat sighting was a noisy flock of 30 Barred Parakeets that flew right over our heads. We run into a large flock at the Tanager Finch site and picked out a couple of new birds. A family group of Sickle-winged Guans showed well, a species that we had missed at Paz de las Aves. Other new species included Black-capped Tyrannulet, Sierran Elaenia and Blue-and-black Tanager. We birded the “bio-station road”, a second site for the Tanager Finch, but the heat of the day already came in. Activity dropped and a single good-sized flock with Grass-green Tanager (photo) did not have any new birds for us. We tried again for Plain-tailed Wren in the bamboo and finally got splendid views of a pair (we had “dipped” seeing the species a few times before). We had lunch back at Las Gralarias and packed up our stuff for the drive back to Quito.
2 - Nov - Quito → Salinas → Playa de Oro, Tigrillo Lodge
It is a long drive from Quito to Selva Alegre so we had an early start. On the way we had breakfast near Salinas where we did some dawn birding. The area around Salinas is dry scrub and holds some interesting species. Our best bird was a female Blue-headed Sapphire, a range-restricted species. Other good birds included Tumbesian Tyrannulet, Scrub Tanager, Streaked Saltator and Western Emerald. We also got some great views of White-tipped Swift. Julio with his canoe was waiting for us at Selva Alegre. The river was low and it took us about 2 hours to get to the lodge. A few “standard species” like Ringed and Green Kingfisher, Snowy Egret, Osprey, Swallow-tailed Kite and Neotropical Cormorant were seen during the canoe ride. Playa de Oro is a remote village along the Rio Santiago in the province of Esmeraldas. The community of Playa de Oro runs a lodge named “Campamento Tigrillo” located about 20 minutes upstream from the village. It is as remote as you can get into the Ecuadorian Chocó. Sadly, it is also one of the last parts of truly pristine Chocó rainforest left in Ecuador. The forest and the birds are spectacular and we strongly recommend others to visit this fantastic place. Canoe rides, rustic accommodation, local food, local guides and hikes into remote forest will give you a real “expedition” experience. We have done a couple of tours to the area, all very successful, including this trip. De area has many superb trails, but many of them are moderately to strenuous. This trip we did not go for the remote hikes. We birded mainly around the lodge picking the easy and flattish trails. Although we missed some higher elevation species like Golden-chested Tanager, we did incredibly well. We proved that the good birds are right behind the lodge as well! After a good lunch we birded the circular trail behind the lodge. As soon as we entered the forest I heard the calls of Broad-billed Sapayoa. This much sought-after species is surprisingly common at Playa de Oro. If you know the call well you will probably run into them daily. The species likes to join the midstory flocks; it might even be a nuclear flock member. The flock behind the lodge was seen daily and we picked out the following species: Broad-billed Sapayoa, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Dot-winged Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Checker-throated Antwren, Griscom’s Antwren, Lemon-spectacled Tanager, Tawny-crested Tanager, Dusky-faced Tanager, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Pacific Flatbill, Sulphur-rumped Myiobius, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Stripe-throated Wren, Western Woodhaunter and Western Slaty Antshrike. A Stub-tailed Antbird was singing from a distance. As soon as we played the song it came in close and showed itself well. We heard a Berlepsch’s Tinamou in the distance. Back at the lodge we got a Red-billed Scythebill. An injured Spectacled Owl was kept at the lodge for the night (photo).
3 - Nov - Playa de Oro, Pueblo trail
The Pueblo trail starts behind the lodge and after a 2 hours walk you get to the village of Playa de Oro. The first stretch of the trail is flat and this is where we birded. A Songwren was heard and after playback a pair gave a beautiful concert at close range (photo). The duet song of this chunky wren is fantastic. We run into a midstory flock and saw species like Broad-billed Sapayoa, Black-striped Woodcreeper and Lemon-spectacled Tanager. A Black-headed Antthrush was singing but did not come closer to our playback. Back at the lodge we got Rufous Piha and Chestnut-headed Oropenula. After lunch we heard a Berlepsch’s Tinamou right behind the lodge. We watched the trail and got lucky: the bird had crossed the trail, spectacular! Late afternoon we watched the river and birded the secondary habitat around the lodge. Species regular at the lodge include Long-tailed Tyrant, Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Golden-hooded Tanager, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Pacific Antwren, One-colored Becard, Cinnamon Becard, Yellow-margined Flatbill, Common and Black-headed Tody-flycatcher, Buff-rumped Warbler, Lesser Greenlet and Streaked Flycatcher. Rose-faced Parrots flew over on a regular basis. With luck one can see Blue-whiskered Tanager, Lita Woodpecker and Scarlet-breasted Dacnis from the balcony.
4 - Nov - Playa de Oro, Santo del Peña trail
The Santo del Peña trail is perhaps the best birding trail in the area. It starts on the opposite side of the river and you will need a canoe ride to get there. The start of the trail goes through semi-flooded forest and gradually goes up into the foothills. After a few steeps climbs you reach a kind of plateau that stays flat for most of the time. From here you can get Golden-chested Tanager (higher parts of the Angostura trail has this species as well). About halfway there is a viewpoint that can be very rewarding. After this point the trail soon meets up with the Cascada trail. You can either walk the same route back or have Julio pick you up with the canoe at the start of the Cascada trail. We only did the very first part of the Santo del Peña trail and did not reach the viewpoint. Nevertheless, we got a nice set of birds. A Lanceolated Monklet was singing at dawn and we tried hard to get it. The bird only responded once and stopped calling. We had more luck with a singing Black-headed Antthrush. After playback of song the antthrush came in and showed well. We flushed a large bird from the midstory that perched right above us: a stunning Great Jacamar. We had a nice mixed-species flock but the birds came through fast. A Lita Woodpecker was calling from the flock and we tried hard for it. Playback worked out well and we got splendid views of a male Lita Woodpecker. Other noteworthy birds in the flock included, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Lemon-spectacled Tanager, Slate-throated Gnatcatcher and Ochre-breasted Tanager. A Gray-headed Kite flew over and landed in the canopy where it started calling. On our way back it started to get really hot and activity dropped significantly. Our only bird was a Scaly-throated Leaftosser; but a good bird! A Black Hawk-eagle was seen at the river and more surprisingly an adult Peregrine Falcon was soaring right above the lodge. After a “siesta” we birded the circular trail behind the lodge. We run into the “house flock” again and got scope views of Broad-billed Sapayoa. We were lucky with a Tooth-billed Hummingbird that landed right in front of us. A pair of Olive-backed Quail-doves showed well while they crossed the trail. A Streak-chested Antpitta was hopping on the trail as it started to get dark.
5 - Nov - Playa de Oro, Paila trail
Today we explored the Paila trail. The trail starts behind the lodge and continuous on upstream. The first stretch is flat and that is where we birded. We heard an Ocellated Antbird calling and played the tape in the hope it would come to us. This large and spectacular “king” of the antbirds came in instantly. A second bird followed and we got some fantastic views. A Great Jacamar was calling from the canopy and a typical “sapayoa flock” passed by. I heard a call that reminded me strongly of the Rufous-crowned Antpitta, one of the holy grails of the Chocó. The call came from far, so I wasn’t sure at all, probably a Tawny-faced Gnatwren. We continued on and heard a Berlepsch’s Tinamou calling next to the trail. I got some good recordings and did playback but the elusive bird stayed in the understory. Clide spotted some movement on the trail behind us. We watched two small songbirds that were in full fight. The colors were stunning: bright turquoise with black and a hint of red. Two males Scarlet-thighed Dacnis had dropped down from the canopy and lay right in front of us! We watched the spectacle for a minute before the birds realized that we were watching them from only a few feet away. I gave it a try and played the antpitta. After less than a minute we got a response: the call sounded incredibly good for the species. I played the tape once again and we waited patiently. A few minutes later a loud rattle came from a few meters away: “that’s the excitement call of the Pittasoma, I’m a 100% sure now”! We watched the understory and detected some movement. A male Rufous-crowned Antpitta hopped out right in the open, WOW! We watched this “mega” for a few minutes in full view before it vanished into the understory. I was even lucky to get some decent pictures (photo). Joyfully we walked back to the lodge were we had a little ant swarm. Bicolored Antbird, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Spotted Antbird and Plain-brown Woodcreeper were attending the swarm. In the “house flock” we got some great views of both Golden-crowned Spadebill and Griscom’s Antwren. Two Chocó Poorwills were singing at dusk just before we went for dinner.
6 - Nov - Playa de Oro → Yalare → Tundaloma
It was raining in the morning. We watched a few birds from the balcony but did not see any new ones. Clide did see a male Black-tipped Cotinga at the river. We loaded our stuff and left after breakfast to Selva Alegre. The canoe ride was refreshing as the rain had just stopped. A large raptor, most probably a Black Hawk-eagle, was seen perched in a tree. Juan Carlos picked us up at Selva Alegre and we continued straight on to Bosque Humedal Yalaré. Yalaré is a reserve located along the highway between Borbon and San Lorenzo. It is a “paper reserve” as it is not protected at all. There is no primary forest left and it is surrounded by huge palm plantations. Locals are invading the reserve, cutting down trees, burning down lots, hunting birds etc. It is a very sad situation. The easiest and perhaps the best place to bird is along the road to Concepcion. First you pass a large palm plantation but soon the road enters the forest. The forest is owned by “Plywood S.A.” a lumber company that has an extensive tree plantation. This is where you still have chance to see some interesting birds. As it is lower than Playa de Oro (below 50m) some of the species can be only found here. Morning and afternoon are the best times to look for birds here. It can get very hot and activity can drop to zero easily. We arrived at about 9 am. It was already warming up and we had to look hard for birds. We scoped a puffbird and it was just the right species we were looking for: Black-breasted Puffbird (photo). This species is rare throughout its range and Yalaré is perhaps the best place to see it. Also White-necked and Pied Puffbird can be found in the same forest patch. We found some activity at a fruiting Cecropia tree. Two barbets were feeding on the fruits but not the species we hoped for. It was a pair of Orange-fronted Barbets, a species we had seen a few times before. However, five minutes later we clearly heard the call of our main target bird the Five-colored Barbet! We hooked up the player with the sound system of Juan Carlos inside his van. A perfect way for playback if you need volume! The barbet came in right away and we got fantastic looks of a male. The bird fed on the Cecropia for a few minutes (photo). A Western Sirystes was seen shortly before we went for lunch at Tundaloma. The Tundaloma Lodge is located a few km south of San Lorenzo. It is situated on a small forested hill, all secondary forest, but also the only forest left in the area. The lodge has a few nice decks from where you can scope the canopy and look for flocks. It is one of the best spots for Blue Cotinga and we watched a female feeding in a fruiting tree below the deck. Other birds that we saw from the deck include a male Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Piratic Flycatcher, Masked Tityra, Golden-hooded Tanager, Blue-necked Tanager and Blue-headed Parrot. Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds and Purple-chested Hummingbirds were regular at the flowers. In the afternoon we got a Brown Wood-rail next to the river. It responded well to the tape but the vegetation was so dense that we could not see it. At dusk we watched two Short-tailed Night-hawks flying by the deck; a good bird in Ecuador. A Chocó Poorwill and a Pauraque were heard in the distance. A Spectacled Owl was calling all night long.
7 - Nov - Tundaloma → Yalare → Durango
We went again to the Concepcion road in the early morning to get some more humid lowland specialties. In some secondary habitat before getting to the forest edge we got a male Slaty Becard, Pacific Antwren and Yellow-margined Flatbill. In the forest we started with a Crane Hawk that flew low over the canopy. At a fruiting tree we watched four Stripe-billed Aracaris and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan. We heard a Black-capped Pygmy-tyrant calling from the midstory and finally we got this tiny little tyrant in full view. We had been looking for it all the time but finding them high up in the canopy is often a needle in a haystack. We were happy to see this little bugger at such close range. A little further we heard Scarlet-breasted Dacnis and soon we got good looks of a pair of this pretty Chocó endemic. Clide saw a Muscovy Duck flying by. This species is rare in Ecuador and unfortunately we could not document this record. Again we got great looks of Black-breasted Puffbird and a Snowy-throated Kingbird was seen perched in a tree top. We got permission to enter a little side track that looked good for birding. Unfortunately, it was warming up and activity dropped. A female Slaty-tailed Trogon was seen well, a rarity in Ecuador. A pair of White-ringed Flycatchers responded well to playback and showed itself nicely. A Black Hawk-eagle was calling from far inside the forest. We went back for lunch to Tundaloma and had a short rest at the heat of the day. In the afternoon we drove up to the foothills of Durango in search of some new species. A Swallow-tailed Kite without tail and with heavy moult in the wing tips needed some time for identification. We run into one good flock but most birds were familiar to us. An Emerald Tanager was a new addition to the trip list. It started to poor down rain and we had to stop birding. Back at Tundaloma the rain hadn’t come in yet and we watched the canopy from the deck. A nice male Scarlet-browed Tanager showed well (photo). Rufous-fronted Wood-quail was calling from inside the forest but did not come in to our playback.
8 - Nov - Cerro Golondrinas → Lago San Pablo → Quito
Cerro Golondrinas is an exciting “new” birding spot that certainly will get popular in the future. In May 2010 we had explored the area and discovered a new public road that goes through pristine Chocó Cloud-forest. This “new road to Chical” is easily reached from the Lita highway and it takes about an hour drive from El Limonal to get to the forest. The forest starts at about 1500m and the pass is around 2250m. The birding on both sides of the pass is fantastic and apart from the typical “Pichincha” species some extremely rare birds seem to be do-able here. We left Tundaloma early in the morning to get on time at the pass. Our first flock was a “bamboo flock” that held goodies like Plushcap and Western Hemispingus. I played the tape for Purplish-mantled Tanager and “oh yes” a pair came in from the flock. We got fantastic looks of this beautiful tanager and I managed to get some good photos of this “lifer” (photo). The species is endemic to the Chocó and extremely rare in Ecuador. It seems to be regular at this new spot and thus tours to this site will continue for sure! At the pass we got some nice looks at both Toucan Barbet and Plate-billed Mountain-toucan. We tried to tape in a Yellow-breasted Antpitta but the bird did not come into view. A Yellow-vented Woodpecker responded well to tape and we got nice views of this scarce species. An adult Barred Hawk flew over. Clide glimpsed a pitch black bird crossing the road. We relocated the bird and it turned out to be a Black Solitaire! Two adult Black Solitaires were feeding on berries and we even managed to get a record shot of this much sought-after species (photo). Lower down the road we run into a canopy flock and picked out a Star-chested Treerunner! This is another very rare Chocó endemic in Ecuador and we just got the full set in a few hours birding. We had lunch in the field and slowly started to head back to Quito. Close to Otavalo at Lago San Pablo we had a short stop. We scoped a few highland water birds like Andean Ruddy Duck, Andean Coot and Yellow-billed Pintail. Some migrants like Greater Yellowlegs, Spotted Sandpiper and Blue-winged Teal were also seen. Our main target, the Ecuadorian Rail, was taped in easily and we got great looks of two adults.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
We like to thank: the ranger at Yanacocha for showing us the Tawny Antpittas, Luis at Milpe for reporting us the nest of the Green-fronted Lancebill, Andrew Spencer for sharing some of his recent observations, Angel Paz and his crew at Paz de las Aves, Sra. Morales at the Cueva de los Tayos, the staff at Reserva Las Gralarias, Julio, Mercedes and Domingo for the great service at Playa de Oro, Andreas and his kind staff at Tundaloma and Nestor and Juan-Carlos for their professional driving during the trip.
For a fully illustrated version of this report go to Mindo Bird Tours or just send me an e-mail.
The taxonomy of this list follows:
Ridgely, R.S. & Greenfield, P.J. (2006). Aves del Ecuador, Vol I. Quito: Colibri Digital
Great Tinamou
Berlepsch's Tinamou
Little Tinamou
Muscovy Duck
Torrent Duck
Yellow-billed Pintail
Blue-winged Teal
Andean Ruddy Duck
Sickle-winged Guan
Crested Guan
Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail
Dark-backed Wood-Quail
Pied-billed Grebe
Neotropic Cormorant
Striated Heron
Cattle Egret
Great Egret
Snowy Egret
Little Blue Heron
Turkey Vulture
Black Vulture
Osprey
Gray-headed Kite
Swallow-tailed Kite
Plumbeous Kite
Plain-breasted Hawk
Crane Hawk
Plumbeous Hawk
Barred Hawk
Roadside Hawk
Broad-winged Hawk
Short-tailed Hawk
Variable Hawk
Black Hawk-Eagle
American Kestrel
Peregrine Falcon
Ecuadorian Rail
Brown Wood-Rail
White-throated Crake
Common Gallinule
Andean Coot
Spotted Sandpiper
Greater Yellowlegs
Common Ground-Dove
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove
Scaled Pigeon
Band-tailed Pigeon
Pale-vented Pigeon
Plumbeous Pigeon
Ruddy Pigeon
Dusky Pigeon
Eared Dove
White-tipped Dove
Pallid Dove
Olive-backed Quail-Dove
White-throated Quail-Dove
Maroon-tailed Parakeet
Barred Parakeet
Pacific Parrotlet
Rose-faced Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Red-billed Parrot
White-capped Parrot
Bronze-winged Parrot
Scaly-naped Amazon
Mealy Amazon
Squirrel Cuckoo
Smooth-billed Ani
Striped Cuckoo
Colombian Screech-Owl
Spectacled Owl
Mottled Owl
Black-and-white Owl
Cloud-forest Pygmy-Owl
Oilbird
Short-tailed Nighthawk
Rufous-bellied Nighthawk
Common Pauraque
Chocó Poorwill
Band-winged Nightjar
Chestnut-collared Swift
White-collared Swift
Band-rumped Swift
Gray-rumped Swift
Short-tailed Swift
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift
White-necked Jacobin
Band-tailed Barbthroat
Stripe-throated Hermit
White-whiskered Hermit
Tawny-bellied Hermit
Green-fronted Lancebill
Wedge-billed Hummingbird
Green Violetear
Sparkling Violetear
Tooth-billed Hummingbird
Purple-crowned Fairy
Gorgeted Sunangel
Green Thorntail
Speckled Hummingbird
Violet-tailed Sylph
Black-tailed Trainbearer
Tyrian Metaltail
Hoary Puffleg
Sapphire-vented Puffleg
Golden-breasted Puffleg
Shining Sunbeam
Brown Inca
Collared Inca
Buff-winged Starfrontlet
Sword-billed Hummingbird
Great Sapphirewing
Buff-tailed Coronet
Velvet-purple Coronet
Booted Racket-tail
White-tailed Hillstar
Purple-bibbed Whitetip
Fawn-breasted Brilliant
Green-crowned Brilliant
Empress Brilliant
Purple-throated Woodstar
Western Emerald
Green-crowned Woodnymph
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Andean Emerald
Blue-chested Hummingbird
Purple-chested Hummingbird
Blue-headed Sapphire
Golden-headed Quetzal
Crested Quetzal
Slaty-tailed Trogon
Western White-tailed Trogon
Chocó Trogon
Collared Trogon
Masked Trogon
Ringed Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Broad-billed Motmot
Rufous Motmot
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
Great Jacamar
Black-breasted Puffbird
Pied Puffbird
White-whiskered Puffbird
Lanceolated Monklet
Orange-fronted Barbet
Five-colored Barbet
Red-headed Barbet
Toucan Barbet
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan
Chocó Toucan
Crimson-rumped Toucanet
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan
Pale-mandibled Aracari
Stripe-billed Aracari
Black-cheeked Woodpecker
Smoky-brown Woodpecker
Red-rumped Woodpecker
Yellow-vented Woodpecker
Lita Woodpecker
Golden-olive Woodpecker
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker
Cinnamon Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Powerful Woodpecker
Guayaquil Woodpecker
Broad-billed Sapayoa
Scaly-throated Leaftosser
Pacific Hornero
Azara's Spinetail
Rufous Spinetail
Slaty Spinetail
Red-faced Spinetail
Rusty-winged Barbtail
Spotted Barbtail
Star-chested Treerunner
Pearled Treerunner
Pacific Tuftedcheek
Streaked Tuftedcheek
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner
Lineated Foliage-gleaner
Western Woodhaunter
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner
Uniform Treehunter
Streak-capped Treehunter
Plain Xenops
Plain-brown Woodcreeper
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper
Strong-billed Woodcreeper
Black-striped Woodcreeper
Spotted Woodcreeper
Streak-headed Woodcreeper
Montane Woodcreeper
Red-billed Scythebill
Western Slaty-Antshrike
Spot-crowned Antvireo
Checker-throated Antwren
Griscom's Antwren
Pacific Antwren
White-flanked Antwren
Slaty Antwren
Dot-winged Antwren
Long-tailed Antbird
Rufous-rumped Antwren
Dusky Antbird
Chestnut-backed Antbird
Esmeraldas Antbird
Stub-tailed Antbird
Immaculate Antbird
Bicolored Antbird
Spotted Antbird
Ocellated Antbird
Black-headed Antthrush
Rufous-breasted Antthrush
Giant Antpitta
Moustached Antpitta
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta
Chestnut-naped Antpitta
Yellow-breasted Antpitta
Rufous Antpitta
Tawny Antpitta
Streak-chested Antpitta
Rufous-crowned Antpitta
Ash-colored Tapaculo
Blackish Tapaculo
Nariño Tapaculo
Spillmann's Tapaculo
Ocellated Tapaculo
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet
Black-capped Tyrannulet
Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Greenish Elaenia
White-crested Elaenia
Lesser Elaenia
Sierran Elaenia
Brown-capped Tyrannulet
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
White-tailed Tyrannulet
White-banded Tyrannulet
White-throated Tyrannulet
Rufous-winged Tyrannulet
Torrent Tyrannulet
Yellow Tyrannulet
Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant
Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant
Chocó Tyrannulet
Streak-necked Flycatcher
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher
Slaty-capped Flycatcher
Ornate Flycatcher
Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher
Pacific Flatbill
Yellow-margined Flatbill
Golden-crowned Spadebill
Flavescent Flycatcher
Bran-colored Flycatcher
Tawny-breasted Myiobius
Sulphur-rumped Myiobius
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher
Cinnamon Flycatcher
Acadian Flycatcher
Olive-sided Flycatcher
Smoke-colored Pewee
Western Wood-Pewee
Black Phoebe
Vermilion Flycatcher
Smoky Bush-Tyrant
Masked Water-Tyrant
Crowned Chat-Tyrant
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant
Long-tailed Tyrant
Piratic Flycatcher
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
Gray-capped Flycatcher
White-ringed Flycatcher
Golden-crowned Flycatcher
Streaked Flycatcher
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Snowy-throated Kingbird
Tropical Kingbird
Rufous Mourner
Western Sirystes
Sirystes
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Bright-rumped Attila
Green-and-black Fruiteater
Barred Fruiteater
Orange-breasted Fruiteater
Andean Cock-of-the-rock
Blue Cotinga
Rufous Piha
Black-tipped Cotinga
Purple-throated Fruitcrow
Golden-winged Manakin
Club-winged Manakin
Blue-crowned Manakin
White-bearded Manakin
Masked Tityra
Slaty Becard
Cinnamon Becard
Black-and-white Becard
One-colored Becard
Chocó Vireo
Brown-capped Vireo
Red-eyed Vireo
Tawny-crowned Greenlet
Lesser Greenlet
Turquoise Jay
Blue-and-white Swallow
Brown-bellied Swallow
White-thighed Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Gray-breasted Martin
Barn Swallow
Southern Nightingale Wren
House Wren
Mountain Wren
Grass Wren
Plain-tailed Wren
Whiskered Wren
Bay Wren
Stripe-throated Wren
Rufous Wren
Sepia-brown (Sharpe's) Wren
White-breasted Wood-Wren
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren
Song Wren
Tawny-faced Gnatwren
Tropical Gnatcatcher
Slate-throated Gnatcatcher
White-capped Dipper
Andean Solitaire
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush
Swainson's Thrush
Black Solitaire
Pale-vented Thrush
Great Thrush
Glossy-black Thrush
Dagua Thrush
Tropical Mockingbird
Superciliaried Hemispingus
Western Hemispingus
White-shouldered Tanager
Tawny-crested Tanager
White-lined Tanager
Lemon-rumped Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
Blue-capped Tanager
Blue-and-yellow Tanager
Moss-backed Tanager
Hooded Mountain-Tanager
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager
Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager
Grass-green Tanager
Purplish-mantled Tanager
Fawn-breasted Tanager
Glistening-green Tanager
Golden-naped Tanager
Scrub Tanager
Golden-hooded Tanager
Blue-necked Tanager
Rufous-throated Tanager
Blue-and-black Tanager
Beryl-spangled Tanager
Metallic-green Tanager
Rufous-winged Tanager
Bay-headed Tanager
Saffron-crowned Tanager
Flame-faced Tanager
Blue-whiskered Tanager
Golden Tanager
Emerald Tanager
Silver-throated Tanager
Swallow Tanager
Yellow-tufted Dacnis
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis
Blue Dacnis
Scarlet-breasted Dacnis
Purple Honeycreeper
Green Honeycreeper
Scarlet-browed Tanager
Guira Tanager
Cinereous Conebill
Blue-backed Conebill
Capped Conebill
Glossy Flowerpiercer
Black Flowerpiercer
White-sided Flowerpiercer
Indigo Flowerpiercer
Masked Flowerpiercer
Plushcap
Dusky Bush-Tanager
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager
Dusky-faced Tanager
Bananaquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Dull-colored Grassquit
Slate-colored Grosbeak
Buff-throated Saltator
Black-winged Saltator
Streaked Saltator
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Slaty Finch
Blue-black Grassquit
Variable Seedeater
Black-and-white Seedeater
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Thick-billed Seed-Finch
Plain-colored Seedeater
Orange-billed Sparrow
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch
Chocó Brush-Finch
Rufous-naped Brush-Finch
Summer Tanager
Lemon-spectacled Tanager
Ochre-breasted Tanager
Southern Yellow Grosbeak
Tropical Parula
Blackburnian Warbler
American Redstart
Northern Waterthrush
Olive-crowned Yellowthroat
Slate-throated Redstart
Spectacled Redstart
Chocó Warbler
Black-crested Warbler
Russet-crowned Warbler
Three-striped Warbler
Buff-rumped Warbler
Chestnut-headed Oropendola
Scarlet-rumped Cacique
Scrub Blackbird
Shiny Cowbird
Hooded Siskin
Yellow-bellied Siskin
Orange-crowned Euphonia
Thick-billed Euphonia
Fulvous-vented Euphonia
White-vented Euphonia
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Yellow-collared Chlorophonia