Introduction
Although October is not the prime time to go Goa, being a teacher there is little choice with regard to timings as Christmas is always family time. Having never been before there were plenty of new species for us to see. We flew with Jet via Mumbai as no direct flights were yet operational for the season. We stayed at The Royal Goan Beach Club at the base of Baga Hill.
The weather was c.95 degrees F throughout apart from the first day when we experienced the last of the monsoon rains which should have finished a few weeks ago. Due to the late monsoon many wintering species were not yet present or only present in small numbers. We took Paludrine and Avloclor to protect against Malaria, but we really saw very few mosquitoes.
We used Tim Inskipp’s guide and Krys Kazmierczak’s quide to the ‘Birds of the Indian Subcontinent’ for identification and for site details we used ‘A Birdwatcher’s Guide to India’ by Krys Kazmierczak and Raj Singh and numerous trip reports many of which are now out of date.
Exchange rates were c65 Rupees to the pound which you can only exchange in India.
We almost forgot the need for a Visa which we got about three weeks before the trip by filling the form in online and then going up to the passport office near Victoria to ensure the details were correct. The Visa and our passports were sent back to use by courier a few days later.
Guides
We emailed Santosh prior to going and he eventually replied and agreed to take us birding. As he took so long to reply we also emailed Raymond who did not reply but rang us at the resort, so we arranged to go with him for a couple of days. Both guides had been recommended in tour reports and both were indeed very good. Santosh was quiet and honest, only charging taxi rates, and a good birder, knowing the calls and was good at identification. Raymond knew the sites very well and used a tape to lure difficult species, so we did see a few hard species such as Indian Pitta with him. His i.d. is not as good as Santosh’s and he is charges more, as we paid over the odds on at least one occasion. It is best to contact both guides by phone, their numbers are:
Santosh: 9881180424. Raymond: 9922271840
As it was pouring with rain on the Saturday we arranged with Santosh to take us to Carambolin Lake on Sunday if the rain stopped. It did but Santosh did not turn up as arranged, he said it was still raining where he was 20km away. We consequently went birding around Baga Fields where we met the Greenman, who is just a taxi driver who knows the main birding sites but not many birds. We used him, that afternoon to take us to Morjim beach and to Parsham Lake. Also on the Tuesday for Fort Aguada and a Crocodile cruise on the Mandovi river, which did not produce many species although it was the only spot we saw Black-headed Ibis. You need to take the Crocodile cruise on the Zuari river for the Collared Kingfisher and this is best done through ‘Crocodile Station’ on 9822127936, you can also find this on the web.
This cruise can be specifically for birders rather than Crocodiles but we had better views of Crocs on this cruise, even when we weren’t looking for them!
Sites visited with Highlights:
Anjuna: Yellow-wattled Lapwing
Arpora Wood: Indian Pitta, Small Minivet, White-bellied Sea Eagle. Indian Roller, Coppersmith Barbet, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Loten’s Sunbird, Tawny-throated Babbler, White-throated Fantail, Banded Bay Cuckoo, Jungle Crow.
Baga Fields: Little Cormorant, Indian Pond Heron, Cattle Egret, Great-white Egret, Grey Heron, Striated Heron, Asian Palm Swift, Ashy Woodswallow, Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, Wire-tailed Swallow, White-breasted Kingfisher, Common Kingfisher, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Brahminy Kite, Black Kite, Spotted Dove, House Crow, House Sparrow, Redshank, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Red-wattled Lapwing, Oriental Magpie Robin, Green Warbler, Common Tailorbird, Little Green Bee-eater, Greater Coucal, White-browed Wagtail, Jungle Myna, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Black Drongo, Little Swift, White, breasted Waterhen, Paddyfield Pipit, Long-tailed Shrike, Booted Eagle, Asian Koel, Rose-coloured Starling, Plum,headed Parakeet, Pied Bushchat, Stonechat, Purple Sunbird, Zitting Cisticola.
Baga Hill: Jungle Babbler, Puff-throated Babbler Crested Goshawk, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Purple-rumped Sunbird, Crimson Sunbird, Indian Golden Oriole, Black-hooded Oriole, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, White-throated Fantail, Small Minivet, Brahminy Starling, Grey-bellied Cuckoo, Common Iora, Red-vented Bulbul, Golden Fronted Leafbird, Large Cuckooshrike, Greater Coucal, Asian Koel. Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Black-lore Tit, Rufous Woodpecker, Black-rumped Flameback. Brown-cheeked Fulvetta.
Batim Lake: Garganey, Cotton Pygmy Goose
Beira Mar: Baya Weaver, Scaly-breasted Munia, Ashy Woodswallow, Bronze-winged Jacana, White-breasted Waterhen, Spotted Owlet
Bondla: Crested Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Besra, Indian Spotted Eagle, Scarlet Minivet, Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Yellow-browed Bulbul, Blue-winged Leafbird, Plain Flowerpecker, Blue-capped Rock Thrush, Orange-headed Thrush,Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, White-rumped Shama, Black-naped Monarch, Dark-fronted Babbler, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta,Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Malabar Grey Hornbill, White-cheeked Barbet, Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Rufous Woodpecker, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Hooded Oriole, White-bellied Drongo, Bronzwed Drongo, Jungle Crow, Emerald Dove, Flame-throated Bulbul, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Ashy Woodswallow. Bondla is also excellent for mammals and we saw this Black-faced Langur, Bonnet Macaque, Wild Boar, numerous Spotted Deer and Many Giant Squirrels along with the usual Three-striped Palm Squirrel.
Carambolin Lake: Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Bronze-winged Jacana, Purple Swamphen, Marsh Sandpiper, Black-winged Stilt, Dunlin, Lesser-whistling Goose, Spot-billed Duck, Black-rumped Flameback, Purple Heron, Lesser Adjutant, Black-winged Stilt, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Black-headed Munia, Indian Cormorant, Little Cormorant, Pied Kingfisher, Purple Heron, Great-white Egret, Red-rumped Swallow, Barn Swallow. Glossy Ibis, Whiskered Tern, Greater Spotted Eagle, 60 Little Grebe, Malabar Crested Lark.
Carambolin Wood: Brown Wood Owl, Grey-breasted Prinia, Ashy Drongo, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Black-hooded Oriole, White-browed Bulbul, Green Warbler, Asian Koel, Common Hawk Cuckoo.
Chorao Island: Black-headed Cuckoo Shrike, Indian Spotted Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle, Clamorous Reed Warbler, Crimson–backed Sunbird,
Divar Island: Pallid Harrier, Montagu’s Harrier, Marsh Harrier,Tawny Pipit, Oriental Skylark, Indian Roller, Stonechat.
Dono Paula: Common Hawk Cuckoo, Red-rumped Swallow, Indian Robin, Lotan’s Sunbird, Oriental Skylark, Tawny Pipit, Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark, Scaly-breasted Munia.
Fort Aguada: Indian Peafowl, Ashy Prinia, Black-rumped Flameback, Rufous Treepie, White-browed Bulbul,
Maem Lake: Changeable Hawk Eagle, Rufous Woodpecker, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Black-lored Tit, Common Tailorbird, Clamorous Reed Warbler, Booted Warbler, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Little Spider Hunter, Thick-billed Flower Pecker, White-cheeked Barbet, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Common Woodshrike, Brown-breasted Flycatcher. Crimson-backed Sunbird. White-browed Wagtail, Emerald Dove.
Mandovi River: Black-headed Ibis, Ashy Prinia, Lesser Sandplover, Spotted Redshank, White-breasted Kingfisher, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Common Kingfisher, Indian Peafowl. Marsh Mugger Crocodile and amazing views of Flying Fox Bat both roosting and in flight. A Black-faced Langur was also seen in the mangroves.
Morjim Beach: Small Pratincole, Greater Sandplover, Lesser Sandplover, Little Ringed Plover, Curlew, White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Bay-backed Shrike, Barred Buttonquail, Alexandrine Parakeet, Large Woodshrike, Brown-headed Gull, Greater Black-headed Gull, Heuglin’s Gull, Lesser-crested Tern.
Parsham Lake: White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Marsh Harrier, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Little Egret, Great-white Egret
Pilar Lake: Pygmy Cotton Goose
Saligo Spring: Oriental Honey Buzzard, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Golden –fronted Leafbird
Siolim: Intermediate Egret, Little Egret, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Wood Sandpiper, Stork-billed Kingfisher, White-breasted Kingfisher, Changeable Hawk Eagle
Zuari River: Great Crested Tern, Collared Kingfisher, Black-capped Kingfisher, Dusky Crag Martin, Rufous Treepie, Asian Openbill, Black-crowned Night Heron, Osprey, Peregrine, Gull-billed Tern, Indian Spotted Eagle, Wire-tailed Swallow, Indian Golden Oriole. Flying Fox Bat and Marsh Mugger Crocodile.
Species list (Lifers in Bold Type) (Heard only species are not counted in the totals)
Little Grebe Common on all lakes
Indian Cormorant A few at Carambolin and elsewhere
Little Cormorant Common
Oriental Darter A few over Carambolin
Eastern Cattle Egret Abundant
Great White Egret Common
Intermediate Egret C.9 at Siolim on the last day
Little Egret Abundant
Indian Pond Heron Abundant
Black-crowned Night Heron Only 1 seen on Zuari river trip.
Striated Heron Common
Grey Heron Common
Purple Heron Seen at Carambolin lake and on the Zuari river
Black-headed Ibis Only 1 seen on the Mandovi river trip
Glossy Ibis A small flock seen in flight over Carambolin Lake
Lesser Adjutant 1 seen in flight at Carambolin lake
Asian Openbill 1 perched up at Carambolin and 1 on the Zuari river
Lesser Whistling Duck Common, seen on all lakes in good numbers
Garganey A few at Batim Lake
Indian Spot-billed Duck A small group in flight over Carambolin Lake
Cotton Pygmy Goose Seen at Batim Lake, and c30 at Pilar Lake
Oriental Honey Buzzard 1 at Maem lake and good views of 1 perched at Saligo Spring
Crested Goshawk 1 seen soaring over jungle covered hillside from Hotel
Shikra Frequent
Besra 1 seen perched at Bondla
Peregrine 1 seen perched on Bridge over Zuari River
Black Kite Abundant
Brahminy Kite Abundant
Changeable Hawk Eagle Well seen at Bondla and Maem lake also at Siolim
Crested Serpent Eagle 1 soaring at Bondla
Booted Eagle A few seen
Greater Spotted Eagle A few seen at Bondla, Arpora and Chorao Island
Indian Spotted Eagle Seen at Arpora and Choroa island
Osprey A few on the main rivers
White-bellied Sea Eagle 1 at P Lake 2 at Morjim Beach, 2 at nest site in Arpora wood
Western Marsh Harrier 1 at Parsham Lake, Common on Divar island
Pallid Harrier A male and a female in the Divar island roost
Montagu’s Harrier A few at Divar island all ringtails
Red Spurfowl Heard at Maem Lake
Grey Junglefowl Heard at Bondla
Barred Buttonquail 1 flushed at Morjim Beach
Indian Peafowl 2 at Fort Agauda 1 on Mandovi River and 1 near Arpora.
Demoiselle Crane A young bird forced down by the rain at Mumbai Airport
White-breasted Waterhen Baga Fields and behind the Biera Mar
Purple Swamphen Common at Carambolin Lake
Moorhen 1 at Carambolin Lake
Bronze-winged Jacana Common at Carambolin Lake, a few elsewhere
Pheasant-tailed Jacana A few at Carambolin Lake
Black-winged Stilt A few at Carambolin Lake
Small Pratincole 17 at Morjim Beach on the sanbanks at low tide.
Little Ringed Plover Common on the sandbanks at Morjim Beach
Red-wattled Lapwing Common
Yellow-wattled Lapwing 2 at Anjuna but not found at Dona Paula
Lesser Sandplover Common early morning at Morjim Beach, a few near Mandovi
Greater Sandplover A few amongst the Lessers on Morjim Beach
Curlew A few seen
Redshank Common
Spotted Redshank A few roosting by the Mandovi River
Greenshank Frequent
Wood Sandpiper Only seen at Siolim where common
Marsh Sandpiper Only 1 seen at Carambolin Lake
Dunlin Many at Carambolin Lake
Common Sandpiper Frequent
Brown-headed Gull Only seen at Morjim beach where common.
Black-headed Gull A few
Greater Black-headed Gull A few at Morjim Beach coming into summer plumage
Heuglin’s Gull A few at Morjim Beach
Gull-billed Tern A few seen on the rivers
Lesser-crested Tern Very common at Morjim Beach
Great-crested Tern Only on the Zuari river on poles where c.40 seen
Whiskered Tern Common at Carambolin Lake
Feral Pigeon Common
Spotted Dove Common
Pompadour Pigeon 2 en route to Bondla
Emerald Dove 1 at Bondla and 1 in flight at Maem lake
Ring-necked Parakeet Frequent
Plum-headed Parakeet A few around Baga fields and elsewhere
Vernal Hanging Parrot 2 at Arpora Wood
Alexandrine Parakeet 2 at Morjim Beach
Banded Bay Cuckoo 1 at Arpora Wood
Grey-breasted Cuckoo 1 at Baga Hill
Common Hawk Cuckoo 1 at Carambolin Wood, and Dona Paula
Asian Koel Common
Greater Coucal Common
Spotted Owlet 2 seen at the Biera Mar at dusk and 1 at Dona Paula
Jungle Owlet Heard at Carambolin Wood
Brown Hawk Owl 2 roosting in Carambolin Wood
Grey Nightjar 1 seen flying by the road en route to Bondla
Asian Palm Swift Common
Little Swift Frequent
Pied Kingfisher Common
Stork-billed Kingfisher Baga Bridge, Zouri River and common at Siolim
Common Kingfisher Common
White-breasted Kingfisher Very Common
Collared Kingfisher 4 seen on Zuari river trip
Black-capped Kingfisher 1 on the Zuari river and 1 at Siolim
Indian Roller I flying over at Arpora wood then 1 at Divar island
Blue-bearded Bee-eater 1 perched early morning at Bondla
Little Green Bee-eater Common
Blue-tailed Bee-eater . Common at Parsham Lake and Carambolin Lake
Coppersmith Barbet 2 seen in Arpora Wood
White-cheeked Barbet 1 at Bondla and a few at Maem Lake
Malabar Pied Hornbill A pair at Siolim early morning
Malabar Grey Hornbill 2 at Bondla and 1 at Maem Lake
Rufous Woodpecker Seen at Baga Hill, Bondla, and Maem Lake
Brown-capped Woodpecker 2 at Bondla
Black-rumped Flameback Seen at Baga Hill, Fort Aguada, Carambolin Lake
Common Iora Common
Golden-fronted Leafbird 1 from hotel window and 1 at Saligo Spring
Blue-winged Leafbird Only seen at Bondla
Indian Golden Oriole Common
Black-hooded Oriole 1 at Carambolin Lake and 2 at Bondla and from hotel window.
Indian Pitta 1 tape lured at Arpora Wood early morning
Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark A male at Dona Paula
Oriental Skylark A few at Dona Paula and many on Divar island
Malabar Crested Lark Frequent especially around Arpora and Carmbolin Lake
Wire-tailed Swallow Frequent
Red-rumped Swallow Frequent
Barn Swallow Common
Dusky Crag Martin Only at the breeding site on the bridge over the Zuari River
Ashy Woodswallow 6 at Baga fields and behind the Biera Mar. 4 at Bondla
Black Drongo Frequent
Ashy Drongo Seen at Carambolin Lake, Arpora Woods, and Maem Lake
Bronzed Drongo Seen at Bondla and Arpora Woods
White-bellied Drongo Frequent at Bondla and Maem Lake
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Heard only at Bondla
Long-tailed Shrike Common
Bay-backed Shrike A male seen in scrub behind Morjim Beach
Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike A few at Bondla
Large Woodshrike 1 at Morjim Beach
Common Woodshrike 2 at Maem Lake
Brahminy Starling c.6 on Baga Hill also at Dona Paula
Rose-coloured Starling 1 in Baga Fields
Chestnut-tailed Starling c.6 at Carambolin Lake
Jungle Myna Common
Common Myna A few seen in various locations
Rufous Treepie Glimpsed at Fort Aguada but well seen on the Zuari River
Large-billed Crow Seen at Bondla and Arpora Wood
House Crow Abundant
Large Cuckooshrike 1 in the jungle from Hotel Window
Black-headed Cuckooshrike 1 at C island and a few at Arpora Wood
Small Minivet 1 from hotel window and also at Maem Lake and Arpora Wood
Scarlet Minivet 2 at Bondla
Yellow-browed Bulbul Common at Bondla
Red-vented Bulbul A few seen on Baga Hill and Carambolin Lake
Red-whiskered Bulbul Common
Black-crested Bulbul 1 of the flame throated variety at Bondla
White-browed Bulbul Seen at Carambolin Lake, Fort Aguada and Dona Paula
Grey-headed Bulbul Heard at Bondla and Arpora Woods
Jungle Babbler Common
Tawny-bellied Babbler Only seen at Arpora Wood where frequent
Puff-throated Babbler 2 at Baga Hill, also at Maem Lake and Bondla
Dark-fronted Babbler A group at Bondla
Indian Scimitar Babbler Heard at Maem Lake
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta A few at Bondla
Asian Brown Flycatcher 1 from Hotel window
Brown-breasted Flycatcher 1 at Maem Lake
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher 12 at Bondla and 1 from hotel window
Black-naped Monarch Seen at Bondla and Maem Lake
Asian Paradise Flycatcher Frequent, first seen at Carambolin Lake
White-rumped Shama 1 at Bondla
White-throated Fantail 1 at Baga Hill and a few Arpora Wood
Zitting Zisticola A few around Baga Fields
Ashy Prinia . A pair at Fort Aguada
Plain Prinia Carambolin Wood
Grey-breasted Prinia Carambolin Wood
Clamorous Reed Warbler 2 at Maem Lake
Blyth’s Reed Warbler 1 at Bondla
Common Tailorbird Common
Booted Warbler Maem Lake
Green Warbler Common
Oriental Magpie Robin Common
Indian Robin Only seen at Dona Paula
Stonechat Common
Pied Bushchat Baga Fields and Carambolin Lake
Black-capped Rock Thrush A female at Bondla
Malabar Whistling Thrush Heard at Bondla
Orange headed Thrush A small party at Bondla
Black-lored Tit Baga Hill, Maem Lake
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Frequent at Bondla
Paddyfield (Oriental) Pipit Common at Baga Fields
Tawny Pipit Seen at Dona Paula and Divar Island
White-browed Wagtail 2 at Baga Bridge and 2 at Maem Lake
Grey Wagtail 2 at Bondla
Little Spiderhunter 1 at Maem Lake
Purple-rumped Sunbird Common
Purple Sunbird Baga Hill and Bondla
Crimson-backed Sunbird Seen at Bondla
Crimson Sunbird Only a pair seen at Baga Hill from hotel window
Lotan’s Sunbird Seen at Arpora wood and Dona Paula
Thick-billed Flowerpecker Maem Lake and Arpora Wood
Plain Flowerpecker Bondla and Arpora Wood
Asian Fairy Bluebird Only seen at Bondla
Scaly-breasted Munia Only seen at the Biera Mar and at Dona Paula
White-rumped Munia Common
Black-headed Munia Seen at Carambolin lake and Bondla
House Sparrow A few
Baya Weaver Common at Carambolin Lake
191 Species (127 Lifers)
A number of species were tried for but we failed to connect with them. A Pied Harrier that winters at Divar Island has not yet returned this season, The Fish Owl at Maem lake, the Spotted Eagle Owl near Carambolin and Brown Wood Owl at Saligo Spring were not found in their usual roosting trees. Woolly-neacked Storks were not evident possibly due to the high grasses.
Mammals
Wild Boar A Sow and 4 piglets at Bondla
Spotted Deer Frequent at Bondla
Black-faced Langur Seen on the River and at Bondla
Bonnet Macaque 1 seen at Bondla
Flying Fox Bat Seen on both River cruises roosting and flying
Giant Squirrel Common at Bondla
3 striped Palm Squirrel Common throughout
Indian Grey Mongoose 1 at Pernham Lake
Butterflies
Common Crow
Lime Swallowtail
Common Eggfly
Southern Birdwing
Striped Tiger
Common Mormon
Peacock Pansy
Lemon Pansy
Blue Mormon
Common Jezebel
Blue Wanderer
Common Sailor
Grass Yellow
Pea Blue
Herptiles
Rat Snake Baga Hill
Marsh Mugger Crocodile Seen on both river cruises
Marsh Frog sp.
Indian Skipper Frog
Salamander sp. Hotel
Western Ghats Flying Lizard Bondla