Introduction:
Andy
I have long wanted to visit Nepal but little did I know that when I 'floated' a message on the Oriental Bird Club http://www.orientalbirdclub.org/club/about.html message board for interested parties, I would be so lucky as to get a reply from Martin Naylor, a true Nepal veteran of eleven previous trips. Martin took over all the logistics, knew sites and birds intimately, including a very good knowledge of the calls and I was able to benefit from this as I watched the new birds roll in! The phrase 'this is where we start looking for eg. White-browed Tit-Warbler' would become a stimulant for me during some pretty hard days trekking and more often than not we were rewarded with great views of a good percentage of our target birds.
Martin
I was considering yet another Nepal trip when I saw Andy’s message on OBC and replied to him. The first time we met was at the airport for the flight to Nepal. Not only did we share the same birthday, 7th April, but also a real enthusiasm for birding and, just as important, a good sense of humour. Other common interests included football and cricket and with the ‘Ashes’ series under way down under we enjoyed some happy banter with several Aussies we met on the trek! We really did have a great trip and met many new friends along the trek.
Exchange Rates
Internal flights, tourist buses and many hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara quote prices in US$ although payment can be made in the sterling or rupee equivalent. On the trek accommodation and menu prices are in rupees and payment is expected in rupees.
During the period we were there £1 = R110, $1 =R70 and £1 = 1.55$. Rates are reviewed on a daily basis.
There are numerous currency exchange outlets in Kathmandu and Pokhara which generally offer identical exchange rates although you might get a slight improvement on the rate if you ask. Currency exchange outlets on the trek are few and far between and you will get a lower rate.
Flights
Etihad out of Manchester via Abu Dhabi at £685 per person. Etihad are about the cheapest and stop over times are limited to around 2hrs 45 mins on way out and 2 hours on way back. Qatar is also competitive although stop over times are far longer.
Porters/Guides
Bhakti Devkota bhakti8848@gmail.com and Bhuban KC bhuwanpkr@yahoo.com are veterans of almost all the previous Nepal trips undertaken by Martin. Both speak excellent English, are reliable, honest, hard working and have an extensive knowledge of the Annapurna and Everest trekking areas. Bhakti in particular has worked hard over the years and is now a very competent birder. Bhakti pre booked our accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara, arranged our ‘Greenline’ bus tickets for the journey to Pokhara and arranged the trekking permits so by the time we arrived in Nepal everything was already organised. In common with so many Nepali people Bhakti and Bhuwan possess the most amazing eyesight picking out incredibly distant birds and, in Bhakti’s case, even identifying some!
The daily rate is negotiable. We paid 16$ a day to each of them including their food and accommodation (Nepali people pay a lower rate for food and accommodation compared to tourists). A tip is also expected, usually around 1 days pay for each week worked although Bhakti and Bhuwan did somewhat better than that. It is possible to find other porters at a cheaper rate but it is doubtful they would be up to the standard of Bhakti and Bhuwan.
Sites around Pokhara
Fish Tail Lodge
This 100$ a night hotel is situated at the damside end of Phewa Tal. Access can only be gained via a free foot ferry operated by staff from the hotel. The extensive gardens border the forest and the lake. We saw Kalij Pheasant, Green Magpie, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Niltava, White-browed Shortwing, Black-backed Forktail, Chestnut-headed and Yellow-browed (Grey-bellied) Tesias, White-crested Laughingthrush, Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler, Pygmy WB (heard only) and Crimson Sunbird together with a good selection of the commoner species. Excellent views can often be obtained and the species in bold were not seen elsewhere on the trip.
A new kitchen facility was under construction whilst we were there and this, together with the unusually dry border between the garden and forest edge, meant we dipped on Long-billed Ground Thrush, Dark-sided Ground Thrush and White-tailed Blue Robin species seen by MN at this site on almost all previous Nepal trips.
Birders are free to wander around the gardens. A warm, friendly welcome seems to be the norm in Nepal wherever you go although there is a bit more hassle in Kathmandu and see below re Phulchowki Mountain security problems. Good birds can turn up anywhere in the gardens but favoured spots include the area below the ash burner in the corner of the garden bordering the forest and lakeside. This can be viewed from the Pump House situated below the ash burner almost on the edge of the lake. The door is usually open and the under storey can be viewed through the windows.
The muddy area (best when wet) running behind the single storey staff block at the rear of the gardens and backing on to the forest can be good.
In the corner of the garden beyond the swimming pool and gift shop there is a small building which has a wooden sentry box on top of it. Access to the flat roof of this building can be gained by climbing a small ladder behind the building to view the forest and bushes below. Superb views of Yellow-browed Tesia (Grey-bellied) were had here as a constantly calling resident bird moved busily around his patch. We also saw a female Kalij Pheasant here and pondered whether it may be worth putting food out to tempt the birds closer as in the past the now retired restaurant manager Hari fed the pheasants on a daily basis and they would gather close to the wall behind the swimming pool waiting to be fed!
Phewa Tal
This site was a little disappointing with very high water levels, a newly raised embankment at lakeside and new bars/cafes springing up ever closer to the lake shore. The large numbers of pipits and wagtails seen on previous trips were reduced to single figure counts with none present at all on some days. The marshy fields at the north end of the lake were also difficult to access due to high water levels but we did see Steppe Eagle and Woolly-necked Stork here and there was a good variety of water birds but distant views only.
It is possible to take a boat around the lake but we were being quoted the equivalent of £5 per hour. Given the size of the lake plus the fact that the boats were not motorised (rowing boats), this would be an expensive trip probably seeing only the commoner species (Black-necked Grebe would be probable and Canadian birder, Tom Wheatley, saw a male Falcated Duck here from a boat shortly after we returned home) although the views would have been better that the ones we were getting with a scope.
Peace Pagoda
A very obvious landmark being situated on top of the forested hill overlooking the lake, Phewa Tal and the town of Pokhara. Access either by boat across the lake and climb up through the forest, or by crossing the bridge at Damside and walking up through the forest or, as we preferred, by taking a taxi to the road on the south side of the pagoda, walking up the track to the pagoda and then back down through the forest to Damside. We saw Wallcreeper and Spiny Babbler from the track leading up to the pagoda on the south side (regular site for both species) and had some nice mixed flocks in the forest with human disturbance at a minimum.
Kathmandu
At the end of the trip we hired a good quality 4WD vehicle plus driver to take us to Pulchowki Mountain. This was arranged through out hotel 'Tibet Guesthouse' in Thamel for what we considered a reasonable price of R4500. Police stopped our vehicle on the road close to Godaveri at the foot of the mountain. Apparantly a number of robberies had occurred and we had to attend the Police Station at Godaveri to seek permission to continue. Following a delay of almost two hours we were allowed to proceed but only in the company of two armed, plain clothed Police Officers. This was provided free of charge and dealt with in a friendly manner. Phulchowki is a major birding site but unfortunately on this occasion it proved to be disappointing.
Accommodation
The standard of accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara is of varied quality depending on budget but ours was very good. 'Nanohanas' in Pokhara, where we had to relocate on 26th December as 'Mums Garden' (where MN has stayed many times) was fully booked, was spotlessly clean and very reasonably priced at R500 per room with hot powerful shower.
On the trek the accommodation was more basic as you would expect although most places were clean and the food was generally good. In fact the food and accommodation has improved year on year with a number of trek lodges now offering en suite facilities, western style toilets etc. A typical room on the trek is twin bedded and small. We always had a room each and the cost ranged from R50 to as much as R300.
In Kathmandu and Pokhara there are many cafes/restaurants hence food is competitively priced. Food is more expensive on the trek and prices increase as you gain altitude. Trek lodges have ‘Fixed Price Menus’ with prices set by local village heads who have organised themselves in to an 'Entrepreneurs Association'. Prices were due to rise again in January as we were leaving. Trekkers are expected to eat at the lodge where they stay, the cost of a room will be tripled if they don’t. It is apparently the Nepalese custom of old to give accommodation for free and just charge for food. We met a Russian girl who actually managed to pull this off a few times but it was low season and this would probably not work during peak season. The price of food is not negotiable.
Fitness
You do need a decent/good level of fitness as there are some long hard days with steep descents and climbs. In Nepal flat areas are few so on the trek you often gain 4-500m in altitude just to lose it all again to cross a river then make it all up again on the other side! Those of you with bad knees like Andy, should invest in a good quality walking pole, don't be tempted by the fake local ones, Andy’s lasted less than half an hour and luckily he wasn't even leaning on it when it snapped. A good cheap option is to buy the sticks simply fashioned from wood which are available in some villages. They are sturdier and only cost around R50.
AMS
Acute Mountain Sickness, make sure you're aware of the symptoms and if necessary, lose altitude quickly to prevent serious consequences which can include death. AMS is fully covered in the trekking guides.
We saw several very sick people between Manang and Thorung La and some turned back having failed to make it to the pass. We also saw at least three helicopter evacuations of sick people. Generally, problems associated with AMS can be avoided by adopting a sensible approach to the ascent. Simply don't climb too high too quickly and limit your speed of ascent once over 3000M as this altitude seems to be the trigger point for symptoms to start manifesting themselves. MN devised a very sensible itinerary in order to avoid any problems but even this is no guarantee, nor is physical condition. We should point out that not every ill trekker we saw had AMS. Some certainly had sickness and diarrhoea caused by food poisoning/lack of hygiene etc. Wash your hands often and use hand gel.
Timing/Weather
November/December was the only period we were both available. The dry season is over the winter period so it was no surprise that the weather was generally fine, settled and sunny although the nights were cold on the trek. We did have one afternoon of light snow/hail on the 19th December and rain on the afternoon/evening of 31st December. We had sleeping bags but Andy only used his 2-3 times as the blankets provided at the lodges were adequate and clean enough. Thorung La had been closed two or three times earlier in the season but it was fairly ice free when we crossed on 9th December.
From a birding point of view a February/March trip would have been preferable had we both been available. Birds are often on territory and displaying by then making it easier to locate pheasants, owls etc. Late March/April are also good times to visit as summer visitors arrive but winter visitors have largely departed and the weather is often unsettled at this time of year with thundery showers in the mountains on many afternoons.
Whatever time you visit between October and April you will see a good selection of birds.
Birds missed
Apart from those missed at Fish Tail Lodge (see above) the only major dips were Golden-breasted Fulvetta, Himalayan Monal and Satyr Tragopan. We spent 2 days at Doban to cover this area thoroughly for these species. Had we been able to undertake the trip in February or March, our chances of success would have been far higher as previous trips have proved. Certainly more birds would have been calling and singing.
The ridge between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms was another area we covered thoroughly but saw no parrotbills. We did see two species of parrotbill close to Doban so a return of two out of a possible four species is not too bad. Again, more would be expected on a Feb/March trip.
It is no surprise that the owl tally is low, yet again a Feb/March trip would yield more.(In Feb 2009 on the ABC trek/around Pokhara MN saw/heard Satyr Tragopan, Himalayan Monal, Golden-breasted Fulvetta and 8 species of owl).
Itinerary
November
23rd Flew Manchester to Kathmandu via Abu Dhabi with Etihad Airways. Flight departed on time at 20.10.
24th Arrived Kathmandu 15 mins early at 15.30. Took a taxi to Tibet Guesthouse, Thamel. Nice hotel with 24 hour restaurant. Bhakti had pre booked a twin room for us at 16$ each including a full breakfast.
We dropped our gear off and walked down to the Kathmandu Guesthouse for a very nice evening meal and the best naan bread of the entire trip.
25th Up at 6.00 for breakfast before taking the ‘Greenline’ tourist bus to Pokhara departing at 07.30 and arriving 15.00. This is an excellent service costing 18$ each for the 200k trip. The price includes a bottle of water and an all you can eat buffet lunch at the excellent Riverside Spring Resort at Kurinator on the approach to Mugling. Bhakti had already arranged and paid for our tickets and they were waiting for us at reception when we arrived at TGH on the 24th. On arrival in Pokhara we took a taxi to Mums Garden Resort, accommodation which again Bhakti had pre booked. Nice twin room each at 16$ per room per night including a big breakfast.
26th< Birded Lakeside then took a taxi (R450) to the south of the Peace Pagoda and birded the forest areas. Birded Fish Tail Lodge late afternoon. Laxmans Restaurant for evening meal, night at Mums Garden.
27th Birded Phewa Tal and the marshy fields at the north end of the lake before walking slowly back to Pokhara. Fish Tail Lodge in the afternoon. Laxmans for evening meal, night Mums Garden.
28th Birded Fish Tail Lodge early morning and late afternoon. Attended the wedding of Bhakti’s sister for most of the day in the park at Pokhara. Around 7 weddings were taking place at the same time and it really was quite an event. Laxmans in the evening then back to Mums Garden to pack for trek.
29th Taxi to Besi Sahar departed 07.45 and arrived 11.00. Bhakti had already arranged the trekking permits R2000 each. Took tea at Mongolian Hotel and departed on the local bus at 12.15 for Bhulebule arriving 13.15 and seeing Indian Spotted Eagle and Golden Eagle on way. Trekked to Ngadi arriving 15.10. Close to the lodge at Ngadi we had good views of Spotted and Little Forktails and Blue Rock Thrush by the river. Booked into the rustic Holiday Trekkers Lodge R50 per room. (900M)
30th Departed Ngadi 07.45 trekked to Ghermu arriving 14.35. Several mixed flocks seen today including Black-eared Shrike Babbler, lots of warblers and a male Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush. Booked into Rainbow Rest Hotel R100 per room and watched Eurasian Crag Martins and Nepal House Martins flying around above the lodge gardens. (1170M)
December
1st Departed Ghermu 07.10 trekked to Tal arriving 15.00. A large mixed flock below Ghermu contained the only Slaty-blue and Verditer Flycatchers and Red-billed Leiothrixes of the trip. Booked into Peaceful Lodge R100 per room. (1700M)
2nd Departed Tal 07.15 trekked to Temang arriving 15.30. Highlight today was a flock of 6 Black-faced Warblers which gave close range eye level views in the forest beyond Danaque. Booked into Royal Garden Hotel R50 per room. (2630M)
3rd Departed Temang 07.10 trekked to Dhukur Pokhari arriving 15.10. First Spotted Nutcrackers of the trip today and also first Black and Red-throated Thrushes, Blue-capped and White-throated Redstarts, Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinch and White-winged Grosbeaks. Booked into Kamala Lodge R150 per room. (3200M)
4th Departed Dhukur Pokhari 07.15 trekked to Bragha taking low route through Pisang and Hongde arriving 14.10. Large flocks of Snow Pigeons around Pisang totalling around 200 birds. Booked into Hotel New Yak R100 per room. (3470M)
5th Departed Bragha 07.20 trekked the short distance from to Manang arriving 09.00. Superb views of White-winged Redstart, White-browed Tit Warblers and Variegated Laughingthrushes en route.
Spent the afternoon around Manang seeing c60 Chukars, Northern Goshawk, Red-billed and Alpine Choughs, first Tibetan Blackbird of the trip and first Brown Accentor. Booked into Yeti Hotel R200 per room. (3540M)
6th Acclimatisation day around Manang. We climbed to around 4100M to the snowcock site and had great views of 5 birds. Through the forest on the ascent to the site we had the only sighting of Fire-fronted Serins seeing 6 birds. Also saw first Hill Pigeons of trip today. Check the Rock Pigeon flocks on the buildings in Manang as there are usually a few Hill Pigeons amongst them. Night at Yeti Hotel (3540M)
7th Departed Manang 08.20 trekked to Yak Kharka arriving 13.50. Great views of 3 Lammergeiers as we left Manang today and first Robin Accentor of trip. Had lunch at Gunsang watching Chukar and Plain Mountain Finches. Close to Yak Kharka a flock of 8 Tibetan Blackbirds and 1 Mistle Thrush. Booked into Gangapurna Lodge R100 per room. (4020M)
8th Departed Yak Kharka 08.20 trekked to Thorung Phedi arriving 13.15. Great views of White-browed Tit Warblers close to Letdar today together with usual White-winged and White-throated Redstarts and Beautiful Rosefinches. Also, in the grounds of our lodge at Thorung Phedi, close views of Alpine, Altai and Robin Accentors with a flock of 25 Plain Mountain Finch nearby and an almost tame female Red-fronted Rosefinch outside the dining room. Walked up to around 4700M towards High Camp in the afternoon before returning to Thorung Phedi. Booked into Thorung Base Camp Lodge R300 per room. (4530M)
9th Departed Thorung Phedi pre dawn at 04.40 and climbed to High Camp arriving 05.50 (4850M). We took tea and breakfast here and waited for first light. It is possible to overnight but most people prefer the lower altitude at Thorung Phedi. We continued on at 06.30 and shortly after at around 5000M we came across a flock of 5 Tibetan Snowcocks and had good views on the ground and in flight. Gained the summit Thorung La (5416M) at 09.00 and made the long descent to Muktinath (after stopping off to see Solitary Snipe in the Temple grounds before Muktinath) arriving 13.30. Booked into Hotel Caravan R150 per room plus R50 for a shower. (3800M)
10th Departed Muktinath 08.00 and made our way to the ‘jeep station’ a few metres down the road. A jeep/minibus service now operates from Muktinath all the way to Beni and many trekkers opt to use this service or fly out of Jomosom rather than trek along the road. The dust kicked up by passing traffic is a nuisance. New trek routes are being developed in a few places in order to avoid the road so this may help.
AA was having a problem with his knees after yesterday’s exertions so together with Bhuwan he took a jeep to Jomosom. Martin and Bhakti walked to Jomosom arriving 12.30 and seeing no less than 8 Wallcreepers along the way and the only Green Sandpiper of the trip on a pool at Jharkot.
Following lunch at Jomosom we all took the bus to Tukuche arriving at 17.20 and booked into the excellent High Plains Inn R300 per room. (2580M) This was one of the few lodges where Bhakti and Bhuwan were welcomed with open arms and allowed to take a shower. It is quite shocking how so many lodges do not allow porters to take showers and in some cases make them unwelcome (The Xanadu in Jomosom is an example….highly recommended in Lonely Planet but the owner actively discourages porters to remain in the building!) In several places we offered to pay so that Bhakti and Bhuwan could shower but it was difficult to insist, especially when Bhakti and Bhuwan are regular visitors and want to remain on good terms with lodge owners.
11th The day started perfectly with 3 Ibisbills seen at close range on the shingle close to the guesthouse at Tukuche at 07.30. We returned to the High Plains Inn for a celebration breakfast and departed at 09.30 taking the bus to Kalopani arriving 10.50. Taking the bus avoided walking on the dusty road and with Ibisbill in the bag there was nothing special to see on the way.
AA and Bhuwan continued on the bus from Kalopani to Ghasa. MN and Bhakti took a Dal Bhat lunch at the Kalopani Guesthouse and then trekked to Ghasa arriving 15.00. Lots of mixed flocks seen on the way and the only Chaffinch of the trip at Kalopani. Booked into Golden Guest House R250 per room. (2000M)
12th Departed Ghasa at 07.30 trekked to Tatopani arriving 16.00. Again some nice mixed flocks today and great views of a male Hodgson’s Redstart close to Tatopani. Booked into Dhaulagiri Hotel R250 per room. (1190M)
13th Rest day at Tatopani. In the morning MN climbed the wooded hillside and was rewarded with good views of Mountain Hawk Eagle and Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers. The afternoon was spent chilling out (or warming up!) in the hot springs by the river and watching a Crested Serpent Eagle perched up in the wood across the river. Night Tatopani (1190M)
14th Departed Tatopani 07.30 trekked to Chitre arriving 16.10. Lots of mixed flocks today with great views of Speckled Piculet, Grey-faced Woodpecker, Greater Yellownapes, Small Niltava, warblers, tits, shrikes etc. Also 2 Asian Barred Owlets perched in open. On approach to Chitre Black-eared Shrike Babbler and a flock of Dark-breasted Rosefinches. Booked into Annapurna New Lodge R50 per room. (2420M)
15th Departed Chitre 07.40 trekked to Ghorapani arriving 09.50. A very birdy stretch with a flock of around 15 Dark-breasted Rosefinches feeding on the ground and a Maroon-backed Accentor amongst them. Also Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Variegated, Black-faced and Red-headed Laughingthrushes, Hoary-throated Barwing and stunning close views of a Plain-backed Thrush together with the usual array of species.
Booked into Sunny Hotel R100 per room. (2870M) and In the afternoon we birded the lower slopes of Poon Hill seeing Black Eagle, White-browed Bush Robin, Green Shrike Babbler, our first White-browed Fulvettas of the trip, Crimson-browed Finches, Red-headed Bullfinches etc. Back in Ghorapani we had a flock of around 70 White-throated Laughingthrushes, a superb male Crimson-browed Finch and a female Pink-browed Rosefinch. From the window of our lodge dining room we had an amazing sighting of two Yellow-throated Martens foraging in the terraced vegetable patch adjoining the lodge garden.
16th Departed 07.50 and covered the ridge to Deorali Tea Rooms before returning to Ghorapani for 15.20. The hoped for parrotbills did not show but we had ample compensation with a female Crimson-breasted Pied Woodpecker, a pair of Hen Harriers, Himalayan Buzzard, 2 male White-browed Bush Robins, amazing views of 6 Spotted Laughingthrushes which responded to tape, a female White-browed Rosefinch together with several of the commoner species. Night Ghorapani. (2870M)
17th Departed Ghorapani 07.50 and walked back over the ridge to Deorali Tea Rooms arriving 10.45. No parrotbills but great views of a male Darjeeling Woodpecker, 2 Plain-backed Thrushes and 1 Long-tailed Thrush close to Ghorapani. A stunning male White-browed Bush Robin in the ravine below DTR came to within a few feet completely oblivious to our presence. We continued to Tadapani arriving 14.30. Booked into Himalaya Lodge R50 per room. (2710M). Birds seen in the forest from our lodge terrace here included a flock of 25 White-collared Blackbirds which appeared to be all males.
18th Departed Tadapani 07.45 trekked to Chhomrong arriving 12.45. Booked into Himalaya View Lodge R50 per room. (2210M) A superb male Rufous-bellied Woodpecker gave prolonged views in the forest below Tadapani with more White-collared Blackbirds and Black Bulbuls in the same area. Beyond the river crossing we had good views of 2 Cinereous Vultures and a Mountain Hawk Eagle.
Birded Chhomrong area pm seeing a flock of c70 Ashy Wood Pigeons gathering to roost in the forest, Striated Prinia and, from our dining room window, a male Grey-winged Blackbird and a Cinnamon Sparrow.
19th Departed Chhomrong 07.35 after noting 3 male Grey-winged Blackbirds now present from our dining room window! A search for Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler close to our lodge at Chhomrong failed although we did have a brief view of a male Khalij Pheasant. On the climb to Sinuwa we heard Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler but the bird did not show, a male Golden Bush Robin was a little more co-operative although views were rather fleeting. Close to Sinuwa birds included 2 Striated Laughingthrushes and our only Rufous-vented Yuhina of the trip. Beyond Sinuwa 3 White-browed Shrike Babblers in the forest before Khuldi were followed by 10 Black-faced Warblers and 12 Bar-throated Minlas (Chestnut-tailed) close to Bamboo. The weather had now deteriorated with heavy hail/snow showers and we eventually arrived at Doban at 16.15. Booked into Annapurna Approach Lodge R100 per room. (2500M)
20th Departed 07.30 and trekked slowly towards Himalaya Hotel (2840M). A male Rufous-breasted Bush Robin close to the forest shrine over half way to HH was closely followed by a magnificent flock of c1000 Grandala swirling around against the cliff face across the river, one of the highlights of the trip. We saw many of the same birds perched in trees further up the valley. Following a quick drink at HH at 10.00 we retraced our steps to Doban seeing some good mixed flocks including Green Shrike Babblers, treecreepers, tits, warblers, laughingthrushes, fulvettas and yuhinas.
Lunch at Doban then down towards Bamboo (2310M). A flock close to Bamboo finally included Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler and Golden Babbler. Returned to Doban for 15.50. Night Annapurna Approach Lodge (2500M)
21st Departed Doban 07.10 and at last, 5 minutes later, a flock of parrotbills buzzing around like a swarm of bees close to the path and comprising around 5 Fulvous and 45 Black-throated Parrotbills. At Bamboo another flock consisted of Golden Babblers and Rufous-winged Fulvettas. We made our way from Bamboo excited with the birds we had seen but disappointed that Golden-breasted Fulvetta had not been one of them.
Beyond Khuldi and in the forest towards Sinuwa more birds including a perched Ashy Wood Pigeon, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Maroon Oriole, c25 Black-faced Warblers, 6 Green Shrike Babblers and Dark-breasted Rosefinches amongst others. Lunch in lower Sinuwa then on to Chhomrong for 14.20 after brief views of Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler at the river crossing. We continued on to Jhinu Danda for 15.30. Booked into Hotel Namaste R100 per room. (1750M)
22nd Departed Jhinu Danda 07.00. Trekked down to the river seeing Ashy and Spangled Drongos and a female Rufous-breasted Bush Robin. We continued on to New Bridge and Beehive with flock after flock of the commoner species and at last getting good views of Himalayan Aberrant and Grey-sided Bush Warblers. New trip birds included Grey-throated Babblers and Nepal Fulvettas. Shortly after leaving Beehive a Long-billed Ground Thrush, the only one of the trip, appeared on the path ahead of us and we had great views. The good birding continues all the way to Birethante where the trek finally came to an end at 13.50.
We took a taxi from Birethante back to Mums Garden Resort at Pokhara arriving 15.30 and taking a welcome hot shower. Dinner at 18.00 and a couple of beers at Laxmans Restaurant were also welcome! Night Mums Garden.
23rd to 31st December inclusive.
We spent this period in and around Pokhara birding and also becoming involved with the Pokhara Street Fair. This is a well attended event with crowds gathering in the park and on the streets to listen to live bands and partake in the various street games and activities over a period of about a week. The lakeside road is closed to traffic for much of this period. The owner of Laxmans Restaurant, Mr Sureya (we christened him Mr Pokhara!) was one of the main organisers and he recruited us to support the events. One of our trekking friends, Timo from Germany, won the road race event although in truth there was not much competition. Mr Sureya laid on a free meal for all the road race competitors, we all had a great night. We were well looked after at Laxmans with cheap food and discounted beer.
Despite the celebrations we did manage to see a few new trip birds during this period including Common Merganser, Greater Flameback, Common Kingfisher, Steppe Eagle, Woolly-necked Stork, Long-tailed Minivet, Brahminy Starling, Streak-throated Swallow, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, White-browed Wagtail and Rosy Pipit.
January 2011
1st Departed from Pokhara on the Greenline Tourist Bus at 08.00 arriving in Kathmandu 15.30. Night Tibet Guest House, twin room 13$ each including a substantial buffet breakfast.
2nd Departed in hotel 4x4 with driver to Phulchowki Mountain at 07.20. See above under heading Kathmandu for details of security problems encountered. In the reduced time we spent here Alexandrine Parakeet and Brown Bullfinch were added to the trip list. Night Tibet Guest House.
3rd Departed 07.30 for Nagarjung which is only 15 mins by taxi from the hotel. Note that you have to take your passport and leave it with the security guard at the lower entrance gate otherwise entry will be refused. There is an entry fee of R250 for tourists and only around R10 for locals. We walked up through the forest on the newly laid stepped path. It was fairly quiet and the only new birds seen were Blyth’s Reed Warbler close to the road and White-bellied Erpornis (Yuhina). Returned to TGH for lunch and spent the afternoon in Kathmandu. Night TGH.
4th Sightseeing around Kathmandu. Flight departed 21.00 via Abu Dhabi to Manchester.
5th Arrived Manchester 06.15.
Species list
Systematic order per ‘Inskipp et al Birds of Nepal’. English names and taxonomy per ‘Rasmussen and Anderton 'Birds of South Asia’. English names used in Inskipp also included where confusion likely. Taxonomic changes adopted by Rasmussen and any change to scientific name (as compared to Inskipp) indicated by the insertion of an asterisk * after the scientific name. Refer to Rasmussen and Anderton 'Birds Of South Asia' for further details.
1. Tibetan Snowcock Tetraogallus tibetanus A group of 5 birds at c5000m seen and heard as we climbed above High Camp towards Thorung La in the early morning of 9th December. Flight views revealed the obvious white trailing edge to the secondaries. This is the first time Martin has seen this species in the Annapurna area despite the literature indicating it to be the commoner of the 2 Snowcock species which occur.
2. Himalayan Snowcock Tertraogallus himalayensis A group of 5 birds seen at c4100m half way to the ‘Gangapurna Viewpoint’ south of Manang on 6th December. A reliable site for this species birds being present on all 3 previous visits made by MN. Birds tend to frequent an area close to a small pool. The group we saw walked slowly up the slope from the pool towards a small white post (like a trig point) before gliding back down the slope calling. The route to the ‘GV’ is described in most trekking guides.
3. Chukar Partridge Alectoris chukar A flock of 60 close to Manang on 5th December, 25 between Manang and Gunsang on the 7th and 6 below Jharkot on the 10th.
4. Common Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola Heard calling from Sinuwa on 21st December and from Jhinu Danda the following day.
5. Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos leucomelanos A female seen in the forest at Fish Tail Lodge, Pokhara from the roof of the small building in the corner of the hotel gardens by the swimming pool on 27th November. The building has a guard post on top of it, go behind and climb the ladder to gain access to the roof and view the forest and bushes below. A male close to the path at the top of Chhomrong on 19th December was the only other sighting.
6. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Max of 25 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November. 3 on the river close to Bragha on 4th December and 5 on Gangapurna Lake below Manang on the 5th.
7. Gadwall Anas strepera 50+ at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November.
8. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope 50+ Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November.
9. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 8 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November.
10. Northern Pintail Anas acuta 6 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November.
11. Common Pochard Aythya ferina 2 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November.
12. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca 12 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November.
13. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Single figure counts at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 24th, 27th and 30th December.
14. Common Merganser Mergus merganser 8 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 30th December.
15. Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus A single in a mixed flock in the forest below the Peace Pagoda at Pokhara on 26th November and another in a mixed flock close to Ghar Khola on 14th December.
16. Fulvous-breasted Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos macei A male in the forest below the Peace Pagoda at Pokhara on 26th November.
17. Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Hypopicus hyperythrus* A superb male was watched at length in the forest below Tadopani on 18th December after we heard it call and then found it chipping away at a tree trunk searching for food.
18. Crimson-breasted Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathpharius A female on the ridge between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms on 16th December.
19. Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos darjellensis A male near Ghorapani on 17th December and 2 birds in the forest close to Sinuwa on the 21st.
20. Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus Singles in the forest below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November and at New Bridge on 22nd December.
21. Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha 2 in a mixed flock close to Ghar Khola on14th December.
22. Grey-faced Woodpecker Picus canus 1 close to Ghara on 14th December.
23. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus 1 in the forest behind Fish Tail Lodge, Pokhara on 25th December.
24. Great Barbet Magalaima virens Heard/seen daily around Pokhara and the lower trek areas.
25. Blue-throated Barbet Magalaima asiatica Heard/seen around Pokhara with Fish Tail Lodge gardens being the most regular site.
26. Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis 1 seen perched on roadside wires on the drive to Besi Sahar on 29th November.
27. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 1 Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 31st December.
28 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Seen daily around Phewa Tal/Pokhara.
29. Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis 1 heard and seen from our hotel ‘Mums Garden Resort’ in Pokhara on 28th November and 24th December.
30. Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria 1 seen and heard on 2nd January as we waited with our vehicle at the base of Pulchowki Mountain was an unexpected surprise at this altitude. The possibility that the bird may have been an escape cannot be ruled out.
31. Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Seen/heard daily around Pokhara.
32. Himalayan Parakeet (Slaty-headed Parakeet) Psittacula himalayana Seen daily in lower trek areas max 50 below Ghermu on 30th November.
33. Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris* Seen almost daily over Phewa Tal, Pokhara with 100s present on some days.
34. Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides Good views of 2 singles perched out in the open near Ghara on 14th December.
35. Spotted Owlet Athene brama Heard only, in Kathmandu 25th/26th November and in Pokhara on 26th December.
36. Rock Pigeon Columba livia Common.
37. Hill Pigeon Columba rupestris Scanning the flocks of Rock Pigeons around Manang revealed 2 birds on 6th December and 4 more the following day. 6 birds were seen at Muktinath on 10th December.
38. Snow Pigeon Columba leuconata Seen on 6 days of the treks with several large flocks, max 200 at Pisang on 4th December.
39. Ashy Wood Pigeon Columba pulchricollis A pre roost flock of around 100 birds was seen at Chhomrong on 18th December. Good views of a single bird perched in the forest between Khuldi and Sinuwa on the 21st.
40. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Seen and heard daily around Pokhara.
41. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Singles at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November and 31st December.
42. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio p. poliocephalus Max 100 in marshy fields at north end of Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November and 30th December.
43. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 2 Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November.
44. Common Coot Fulica atra 20 Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November.
45. Solitary SnipeGallinago solitaria 1 at the monastery at Muktinath being the regular site for this species. The birds frequent the areas close to the stream which runs through the monastery grounds. (R100 entrance fee)
46. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 1 on a pool at Jharkot below Muktinath on 10th December.
47. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 on the shingle near Tukuche on 11th December and max of 2 on several days at Phewa Tal, Pokhara.
48. Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii AA missed this much sought after species in India some years ago (best wader in the world candidate?) and was keen to catch up with it here if possible. It was in no way guaranteed as we were not visiting the traditional site at Hetauda. MN had seen Ibisbills on several previous visits (almost always 3 together) between Tukuche (2580m) and Kalopani (2530m) although these sites are some 1500m higher than the maximum wintering altitude quoted by Rasmussen (1000m). We set out pre breakfast on 11th December for a look around the extensive shingle area close to Tukuche. Within 15 minutes we had great views of three birds which were feeding close to the village. The birds favour the small muddy pools close to habitation rather than further out in the extensive shingle areas. We eventually walked away from the birds and returned to the High Plains Inn (best lodge of the entire trek with amazing hot shower and exceptional food!) for a celebration breakfast.
49. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus Seen at Phewa Tal, Pokhara max 30 on 27th November.
50. Black Kite Milvus migrans Common around Pokhara and Kathmandu.
51. Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus 2 adults and an immature seen together between Manang and Gunsang on 7th December. Numbers seem to have declined over recent years.
52. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Up to 20 daily around Pokhara.
53. White-rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis 4 birds above the forest at Pokhara on 26th November with 2 birds there on the 28th.
54. Himalayan Vulture Gyps himalayensis Recorded on 19 days of the trek max 12 on several dates. 2 above the forest at Pokhara on 25th December.
55. Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus 2 seen near Ghurjung (between Tadapani and Chhomrong) on 18th December and 1 seen from the college grounds in Pokhara whilst visiting the Natural History Museum.
56. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela Singles at Tatopani on 13th December and near Birethante on the 22nd.
57. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis 1 seen from the lower slopes of Poon Hill, Ghorapani on 15th December.
58. Hen Harrier Circa cyaneus One sighting of a pair quartering the hillside below the ridge between Ghorepani and Deorali Tea Rooms on 16th December.
Accipiter species Numerous smaller Accipiters went unidentified.
59. Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis Fantastic close views of a single over the plateau below Manang on 4th and 5th December.
60. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus* Singles at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November, Ghorapani on 18th December and at Nagarjung on 3rd January.
61. Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata* 1 at Besi Sahar on 29th November.
62. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 1 at Bhulbhule on 29th November.
63. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis An adult and an immature at the north end of Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 30th December.
64. Bonelli's Eagle Hieraatus fasciatus 1 over Pokhara on 28th November.
65. Booted Eagle Hieraatus pennatus 2 over the forest at Pokhara on 26th November and another over Pokhara on 27th December.
66. Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis Singles at Tatopani, Ghurjung and near Sinuwa on 13th, 18th and 21st December respectively.
67. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 or 2 seen on most days.
68. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Up to 50 daily at Phewa Tal, Pokhara.
69. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Up to 25 daily Phewa Tal, Pokhara. Also seen on first couple of trek days on river.
70. Little Egret Egretta garzetta Single figure counts daily around Pokhara.
71. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia* Up to 25 daily around Pokhara.
73. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus* Up to 50 daily around Pokhara and en route when travelling.
73. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 2 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 30th December.
74. Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Up to 10 daily around Pokhara and en route when travelling.
75. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax A roost with 20+ birds at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 26th November.
76. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus 2 in the marshy fields at the north end of Phewa Tal,Pokhara on 30th December.
77. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach tricolour Up to 8 daily around Pokhara.
78. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus A few singles around Pokhara and daily max of 3 between Kalopani and Chitre 11th to 14th December inclusive.
79. Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius A party of 4 birds seen on the climb to Temang from Danaque.
80. Yellow-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa flavirostris 6 between Chitre and Ghorapani on 15th December. 2 at Doban on the 20th December and 2 more at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
81. Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha 1 in the forest at Pokhara on 26th November and parties of 6 between Tatopani and Chitre on 15th December and at Nagarjung on 3rd January.
82. Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis Up to 2 regularly present in the forest at Pokhara. 1 near Ghara on 14th December and 1 below Jhinu Danda on 22nd December.
83. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda 2 regularly seen in the gardens around Pokhara.
84. Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae Up to 12 daily in the forest and wooded areas around Pokhara. Also seen on the first 2 trek days and at Nagarjung on 3rd January.
85. Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes 6 between Temang and Dhukure Pokhari on 3rd December and similar numbers at Kalopani and Ghasa on 11th and 12th December. 2 birds on the ridge between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms on 16th December.
86. Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Large flocks seen daily 4th to 11th December (between Pisang, over Thorung La and on to Tukuche) max 1000 single flock at Manang on 6th December.
87. Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus Seen daily 4th to 8th December (between Pisang and Thorung Phedi) max 50 at Manang on 6th December.
88. House Crow Corvus splendens Common except on the trek. Not seen 1st to 21st December inclusive.
89. Large-billed Crow Corvus (macrorhynchos) japonensis* Common, the only species seen on every day of the trip.
90. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii 2 in the forest at Pokhara on 26th November and a single at Khuldi on 21st December at the surprisingly high elevation of 2470m.
91. Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei 2 near Fish Tail Lodge, Pokhara on 28th November, 3 birds here on 24th December. 2 near Birethante at the end of the trek on 22nd December.
92. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus A party of 5 seen in trees by the road entrance to Fish Tail Lodge on 31st December was the only record.
93. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus* 5 in the forest below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November and 6 near Ghar Khola on 14th December.
94. Pied Flycatcher-shrike (Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike) Hemipus picatus 1 in the forest below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November.
95. Yellow-bellied Fantail Chelidorhynx hypoxantha* Seen on 16 days around Pokhara and the lower trek areas, daily max 10.
96. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis 2 in the forest adjacent to Fish Tail Lodge gardens 26th to 28th November and singles in December in the forest above Tatopani on the 13th and near Birethante on the 22nd.
97. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Up to 15 daily around Pokhara and also seen en route to Besi Sahar and Kathmandu.
98. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus 1 below Jhinu Danda on 22nd December.
99. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer 2 in the forest below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November.
100. Hair Crested Drongo (Spangled Drongo) Dicrurus hottentottus 1 in a mixed flock on the climb to Bahundanda on 30th November, 20 in fruiting trees near Birethante on 22nd December and 4 in Fish Tail Lodge gardens on the 24th.
101. Brown Dipper Cinclus palasii singles seen on 6 days of the trek.
102. Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris single males seen on the climb to Bahundanda on 30th November, at Sinuwa on 21st December and near Beehive the following day.
103. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius A female seen on the climb to the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November and 1 close to the river at Ngadi on 29th November.
104. Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus seen on 23 days around Pokhara and on the trek max 5 on several days.
105. Plain-backed Thrush Zoothera mollissima A single bird gave excellent prolonged views after it was flushed from beside the track between Chitre and Ghorepani on 15th December. The bird was wary but continued leaf tossing and feeding regardless. 2 seen close to Sunny Hotel, Ghorapani on 17th December.
106. Long-tailed Thrush Zoothera dixoni On 16th December as we neared Ghorapani after birding the ridge from Deorali Tea Rooms we flushed a bird and suspected it to be a Zoothera species but it was not re-located. The following morning we were extra vigilant as we passed the same spot. Leaf rustling was heard before a bird flew up and perched giving excellent views. It then flew across the track where it continued to feed for a prolonged period before walking out of sight over the leafy ridge.
107. Long-billed Ground Thrush Zoothera monticola On the final trek day 22nd December, shortly after passing through the beautiful tiny village of Beehive, we were somewhat surprised and delighted when a bird just hopped out on to the stepped path some 20m in front of us in bright sunlight. It sat for maybe only 10 seconds but the view was superb. We subsequently found a small patch of damp earth by a small stream next to the path where presumably it had been feeding. This was the only sighting. The regular site at Fish Tail Lodge gardens in Pokhara was dry and no birds were present.
108. White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus In December 2 seen between Lete and Ghasa on the 11th, a flock of 25 at Tadapani on the 17th seemed to be almost all males and 5 birds were present here the following morning as we departed.
109. Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul A male seen from the dining room of our lodge at Chhomrong on the afternoon of 17th December and great views of 3 more males in the same place the following morning.
110. Tibetan Blackbird Turdus maximus* In December 1 at Manang on the 5th, 5 near the snowcock site above Manang on the 5th and 8 close to Yak Kharka on the 6th.
111. Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis* Seen on 13 days of the trek with daily max 30 on several days between Pisang and Yak Kharka 4th to 8th December inclusive.
112. Red-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis* Seen daily 3rd to 10th December incl. max 12 Manang on the 5th.
113. Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 1 near Yak Kharka on 7th December.
114. Orange-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata Singles in the forest at Pokhara on 26th November and 25th December. Up to 2 seen on 3 trek days, 30th November, 1st and 13th December.
115. Red-throated Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla* Seen on 8 days around Pokhara daily max 3 on 25th and 26th December.
116. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra A male seen from the Pump House below the ash burner in Fish Tail Lodge gardens on 26th and 28th November. A regular wintering site for this species.
117. Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolour A female in a mixed flock below Ghermu on 1st December.
118. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalissinus 1 in same mixed flock as above species below Ghermu on 1st December.
119. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Up to 5 seen daily around Pokhara, the lower trek areas and at Nagarjung.
120. Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae A male at Ghara on 14th December.
121. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara A superb male seen from the roof of the small building in the corner of Fish Tail Lodge gardens near the swimming pool on 26th and 27th November. Again, a regular site for this species.
122. White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana A superb singing male seen and heard from the Pump House below the ash burner in Fish Tail Lodge gardens on 28th November. This is a regular wintering site for this species and it is has been seen on almost all previous visits, although this is the first time a singing male has been present.
123. Himalayan Red-flanked Bush Robin Tarsiger rufilatus* Seen on 9 days of the trek, daily max 2. A female was seen at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
124. Golden Bush Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus A male seen briefly on the climb to Sinuwa on 19th December. The bird responded to the recording we had with occasional contact calls but was not seen again.
125. White-browed Bush Robin Tarsiger indicus Seen on no less than 6 days of the trek max 2 males between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms on the 16th (a regular site). A superb male close to the stream below Deorali Tea Rooms on 17th December appeared almost tame as it allowed us to approach to within a few feet.
126. Rufous-breasted Bush Robin Tarsiger hyperythrus A male close to the shrine between Doban and Himalaya Hotel on 20th December and a female below Jhinu Danda on the 22nd.
127. Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis Up to 10 seen daily around Pokhara and on the first 2 days of the trek. Also seen Kathmandu.
128. Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus coeruleocephala 4 between Temang and Thanchok on 3rd December and 3 more between Lete and Ghasa on 11th December.
129. Hodgson's Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni In December a female at Syange on the 1st, a male near Tatopani on the 10th, 2 males near Ghara on the 14th and a female in Pokhara on the 30th.
130. White-throated Redstart Phoenicurus schisticeps This beautiful redstart seen on the trek 3rd to 8th December inclusive, max 12 between Dhukur Pokhari and Bragha on the 4th. A pair seen on the ridge between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms on 16th December.
131. White-winged Redstart Phoenicurus erythrogastrus Seen on the trek 5th to 10th December inclusive, max 8 around Manang on the 5th.
132. Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis Seen on 12 days of the trek max 8 between Ghasa and Tatopani on the 12th December. Also heard at Phulchowki and Nagarjung.
133. White-capped River Chat (Water Redstart) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus Seen on 12 days of the trip around Pokhara and lower trek areas, max 5 on 29th November etween Bhulbule and Ngadi.
134. Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosa Seen on 13 days of the trip around Pokhara and lower trek areas, max 4 on several days.
135. Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri Following the first at Ngadi on November 29th 4 further singles seen on the trek.
136. Black-backed Forktail Enicurus immaculatus One only on 27th November seen feeding by the lakeside close to the Pump House below the ash burner in Fish Tail Lodge gardens.
137. Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculates 1 at Ngadi on 29th November and probably the same bird the following morning before we departed. 3 Between Ghasa and Tatopani on 12th December and 1 near Tatopani on the 13th.
138. Grandala Grandala coelicolor An amazing flock estimated at c1000 birds seen between Doban and Himalaya Hotel on 20th December. First picked up swirling around the cliff face across the river valley from the forest shrine, seen again further up the valley perched in tree tops…..a trip highlight.
139. Common Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Seen daily around Pokhara and the lower trek areas, max 10 on several dates.
140. Pied Bushchat Saxicila caprata As above, daily max 4.
141. Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferreus 3 below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November. 1 near Ngadi on 30th November and 3 between Beehive and Birethante on 22nd December.
142. Grey-headed Starling (split from Chestnut-tailed Starling) Sturnia malabarica* Seen daily around Pokhara, max 30 on 24th December.
143. Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum* 1 seen from the rooftop terrace at Nanohana Lodge in Pokhara on 27th December.
144. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Daily around Pokhara and in transit to Besi Sahar and Kathmandu. Daily max c50.
145. Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus As above for Common Myna, daily max 100+.
146. White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis Seen on 11 days of the trek, max 10 on 11th December between Kalopani an Ghasa. 4 seen at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
147. Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria 1 seen below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November. Seen on 8 days of then trek, max 8 on 10th December between Muktinath and Jomosom. An iconic bird for most 'Brits' but so regular on parts of the trek that they went almost without comment after a while!
148. Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris 3 around Ghorapani on 15th December. Singles below Deorali Tea Rooms on 17th December and near Himalaya Hotel on the 20th.
149. Bar-tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayana 1 below Lete on 11th December.
150. Rusty-flanked Treecreeper Certhia nipalensis Seen on 7 days of the trek, max 20 on 2nd December most of which seen on the climb through the forest from Danaque to Temang.
151. Rufous-vented Tit Parus rubidiventris Seen on 8 days of the trek, max 12 around Ghorapani on 15th December.
152. Coal Tit Parus ater 2 at Temang on 3rd December. Singles on ridge between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms on 16th and 17th December.
153. Grey Crested Tit Parus dichrous Seen on 6 days of the trek, max 12 between Ghorapani and DTR on 16th December.
154. Great Tit Parus major 2 seen in the forest adjacent to Fish Tail Lodge gardens 26th and 27th November and again on 25th December. 2 on the climb to Bahundanda on 30th November.
155. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus Seen on 13 days of the trek, max 22 between Kalopani and Ghasa.
156. Black-lored Yellow Tit Parus xanthogensis Seen on 10 trip days around Pokhara and the lower trek areas, max 10 between Ghar Khola and Chitre on 14th December. 3 seen at Nagarjung on 3rd January.
157. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus Seen 15th to 21st December inclusive, max 20 between Doban and Himalaya Hotel on 20th December.
158. Red-headed Tit (Black-throated Tit) Aegitholos concinnus Seen on 6 days of the trek between 11th and 22nd December, max 35 between Kalopani and Ghasa on the 11th. Also 4 at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
159. Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Seen on 6 days of the trek, daily max 2 at Ghorapani 16th and 17th December. The Winter Wrens in Nepal appear to be much darker than the birds in the UK.
160. Grey-throated Sand Martin (split from Plain Martin) Riparia chinensis* Seen daily at Phewa Tal, Pokhara daily max c50.
161. Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris* 4 at Ghermu on 30th November.
162. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Seen daily around Pokhara and in transit Kathmandu.
163. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica Over 100 seen on wires on the approach to Mugling on 25th November when we travelled from Kathmandu to Pokhara. A few singles seen over Phewa Tal, Pokhara.
164. Streak-throated Swallow Hirundo fluvicola 2 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 23rd December with a single still present on the 31st.
165. Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalensis Seen on 5 days of the trek, max 100 at Ghermu on 30th November. Also around 30 at Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 30th December.
166. Himalayan Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys Up to 20 seen daily around Pokhara and on the lower trek areas.
167. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Recorded on 20 days of the trip with up to 25 seen daily around Pokhara and the lower trek areas.
168. Mountain Bulbul Hypsipetes mcclellandii 3 at Jagat on 1st December and 5 beyond New Bridge on the 22nd.
169. Himalayan Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus Seen daily 18th to 22nd December, max 60 in forest below Tadapani on the 18th. Also seen at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
170. Striated Prinia Prinia crinigera 1 at Chhomrong on 18th December and 2 beyond Beehive on the 22nd..
171. Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Recorded on 17n days of the trip with up to 20 seen/heard daily around Pokhara and the lower trek areas.
172. Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata 1 heard and seen well below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November and 1 seen at Fish Tail Lodge (a regular site) on the 28th.
173. Yellow-browed Tesia (Grey-bellied Tesia) Tesia cyaniventer Regularly present in the forest at Pokhara especially bordering Fish Tail Lodge gardens. Mainly heard only but 1 bird (a real show off) gave excellent close range views from the rooftop lookout point at Fish Tail Lodge on several dates. Also heard below Ghermu on 1st December.
174. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Seen and heard daily around Pokhara and lower trek areas (Tatopani).
175. White-browed Tit Warbler Leptopoecile sophiae This stunning bird seen daily 5th to 9th December between Bragha and Letdar, daily max 4. Knowing the habitat preference is an advantage. Birds, often in pairs, seem to prefer small stunted bushes in arid, stony areas close to the path. Once you picked up the call it was, on occasion, very easy to follow them as they moved through the bushes giving superb views. A definite candidate for B.O.T.T.
176. Himalayan Abberant Bush Warbler Cettia flavolivacea Singles below Ghasa on 12th December and Below Jhinu Danda on the 22nd.
177. Grey-sided Bush Warbler Cettia brunnifrons An elusive individual heard close to the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November and 3 more obliging birds heard and seen (with the aid of a tape) on the approach to Beehive on 22nd December.
178. Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum A single heard and seen close to the lower road entrance at Nagarjung on 3rd January.
179. Siberian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus (collibyta) tristis* 2 singles in Pokhara 26th/27th November and 5 birds close together close to the Fish Research Centre at Lakeside, Pokhara on 31st December.
180. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus Seen on 5 days around Pokhara, max 3 on 26th December.
181. Blyth's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides 2 on the climb to Bahundanda on 30th November and a single near Samrung on 22nd December.
182. Orange-barred Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher Recorded on 9 days of the trek in the period 11th to 21st December, daily max 5. A single at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
183. Grey-faced Leaf Warbler (Ashy-throated)Phylloscopus maculippennis Recorded on 7 days of the trek, daily max 3.
184. Lemon-rumped Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus Recorded on 7 days of the trek, daily max 10+ on 14th December.
185. Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei The commonest warbler. Recorded on 16 days of the trip mainly around Pokhara, daily max 20+. Also seen on the lower trek areas, Phulchowki and Nagarjung.
186. Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides 1 at the Riverside Spring Resort, Kurinator on 25th November (the lunch stop en route Kat to Pokhara). 1 in the forest at Pokhara on 26th November.
187. Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri Seen on 14 days of the trip, daily max 5 around Pokhara (Fish Tail Lodge gardens a regular site), the lower trek areas and at Nagarjung.
188. Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos* Seen on 16 days of the trip. Daily max: 5 around Pokhara and 12 in lower trek areas. Also seen at Phulchowki 2 on 2nd January and Nagarjung 6 on the 3rd.
189. Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps 2 in the forest below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November.
190. Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps Seen on 4 days of the trek: a flock of 6 gave great views in the forest just beyond Danaque on 2nd December, 10 birds between Bamboo and Doban on the 19th with 3 in the same area the following day and 25 in the forest between Khuldi and Sinuwa on 21st December. 3 seen at Phulchowki on 2nd January. A stunning little warbler.
191. Goldcrest Regulus regulus Seen on 4 trek days, max 10 between Dhukur Pokhari and Pisang on 4th December.
192. White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis Large flocks of 70 at Ghorapani on 15th December and 60 at Chhomrong on the 18th.
193. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulus leucolophus 3 seen in the forest bordering Fish Tail Lodge gardens, Pokhara (a regular site) on 27th and 28th November.
194. Striated Laughingthrush Grammatoptila striata* Seen daily on the trek 19th to 22nd December inclusive, max 3 between Bamboo and Sinuwa on the 21st.
195. Spotted Laughingthrush Ianthocincla ocellata* A party of 6 birds gave superb views when they responded to speculative tape play on the ridge between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms on 16th December.
196. Streaked Laughingthrush Trochalopteron lineatum* Seen on 6 days of the trek, max 15 between Kalopani and Ghasa on 11th December.
197. Variegated Laughingthrush Trochalopteron variegatum* Seen on 7 days of the trek between 4th and 11th December, max 20 between Dhukur Pokhari and Bragha on 4th December. In addition 12 birds seen between Chitre and Ghorapani on 15th December.
198. Black-faced Laughingthrush Trochalopteron affine* Seen on 9 days of the trek, max 12 on several days Ghorapani/Tadapani and Chhomrong areas.
199. Red-headed Laughingthrush (Chestnut-crowned) Trochalopteron erythrocephalum* Seen on 9 days of the trek, max 12 between Jhinu Danda and Birethante on 22nd December.
200. Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys 3 birds heard and seen briefly in the forest above Tatopani on 13th December and better views of 2 birds the following day beyond Ghara. 2 birds gave exceptional and prolonged views in the forest immediately below the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 25th December. Heard only at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
201. Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler Xiphirhyhchus superciliaris Heard on the climb to Sinuwa on 19th December but did not respond to tape. Singles seen close to Bamboo on 20th December and at the river crossing between Sinuwa and Chhomrong on the 21st.
202. Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer Several seen or heard on 10 days of the trip. The forest bordering Fish Tail Lodge gardens is a regular site.
203. Pygmy Wren Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla Heard in the forest bordering Fish Tail Lodge gardens (again a regular site) 26th to 28th November inclusive. Also heard below Ghermu on 1st December.
204. Black-chinned Babbler Stachyris pyrrhops Seen or heard on 7 days of the trek, max 15 between New Bridge and Birethante on 22nd December.
205. Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea 1 near Bamboo on 20th December and 6 in a mixed flock at Bamboo the following day.
206. Grey-throated BabblerStachyris nigriceps At least 30 between New Bridge and Beehive on 22nd December.
207. Spiny Babbler Turdoides nipalensis One record of a bird at first seen briefly on the approach to the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara from track at the south side. The bird responded to tape and sat out singing in full view.
208. Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea 3 birds below Ghermu on 1st December.
209. White-browed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis 3 in the forest between Sinuwa and Khuldi on 19th December.
210. Green Shrike Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus Flocks of 6 birds recorded on the lower slopes of Poon Hill, Ghorapani on 15th December, between Doban and Himalaya Hotel on the 20th and in the forest beyond Khuldi on the 21st.
211. Black-eared Shrike Babbler Pteruthius melanotis 1 on the climb to Bahundanda on 30th November. 1 heard close to Chitre on 14th December.
212. Hoary-throated Barwing Actinodura nipalensis 1 near Dharapani on 2nd December and 4 between Chitre and Ghorapani on the 15th.
213. Bar-throated Minla (Chestnut-tailed) Minla strigula Seen on 4 trek days, max 30 between Kalopani and Ghasa on 11th December. 10 at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
214. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps Seen daily on the trek 19th to 22nd December inclusive, max 20 between Jhinu Danda and Beehive on the 22nd. 25 at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
215. White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus Seen daily on the trek 15th to 22nd December inclusive, max 25 between Ghorapani and Tadapani on the 17th. 8 at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
216. Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe niplensis 4 seen on the last trek day 22nd December between New Bridge and Beehive.
217. Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis Seen on 5 trek days, max 50 below Ghermu on 1st December.
218. Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis Following 10 beyond Karte on 2nd December seen daily 15th to 21st December inclusive, max 25 between Doban and Jhinu Danda on the 21st. Also seen at Phulchowki on 2nd January.
219. Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis A single only, on the climb to Sinuwa on 19th December.
220. White-bellied Erpornis (White-bellied Yuhina) Erpornis zantholeuca* Having missed this species in the forest at Pokhara it was nice to see 2 at Nagarjung close to Kathmandu on 3rd January.
221. Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrata Seen almost daily on the trek 11th to 22nd December inclusive. Often in large noisy flocks which would appear to follow us alarm calling at our presence. Max 60+ on several dates.
222. Fulvous Parrotbill Paradoxornis fulviffrrons At least 5 seen in a mixed flock of around 50 birds which also included Black-throated Parrotbills, close to Doban on 21st December.
223. Black-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis nipalensis c45 in mixed flock as described above. We were pleased (thrilled even!) to come across this flock having drawn a blank for parrotbills on the ridge between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms despite a big effort.
224. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus A male close to the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 25th December.
225. Black-breasted Sunbird Aethopyga saturata A male outside our lodge at Ghermu on 30th November and again the following morning. A male in the lodge gardens at Tatopani on 13th December.
226. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja A male in Fish Tail Lodge gardens, Pokhara on 28th November and another male close to the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 25th December.
227. Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda In December 2 near Kopchepani on the 12th, 2 at Chhomrong on the 19th and at least 10 between New Bridge and Beehive on the 22nd.
228. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Seen daily around Pokhara and Kathmandu. Not seen on the trek.
229. Cinnamon Sparrow Passer rutilans Singles at Tadapani and at Chhomrong on 18th December. At least 10 between Chhomrong and the river crossing on 19th December.
230. Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Common and widespread. Seen on 24 days of the trip around Pokhara and up to 4000m on the trek.
231. White Wagtail – Single figure counts almost daily around Phewa Tal, Pokhara and between Jomosom and Kalopani by the Kali Gandaki river. We were able to assign some of the birds seen to the following races:-
• Motacilla alba alboides also known as Hodgson’s (White) Wagtail.
• Motacilla alba personata also known as Masked (White) Wagtail.
Numbers at Phewa Tal were well down on the regular 3 figure counts of previous trips as a result of high water levels and lakeside development.
232. White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis Singles at Phewa Tal near the Fish Research Centre at lakeside on 27th and 31st December.
233. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola 1 at Phewa Tal near the Fish Research Centre at lakeside on 26th November.
234. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Up to 4 daily around Pokhara and the lower trek areas.
235. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus 5 in marshy fields at north end of Phewa Tal, Pokhara on 27th November. Singles at lakeside, Pokhara on 3 dates.
236. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni Up to 30 seen or heard on 7 days of the trek.
237. Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus 1 at lakeside, Pokhara on 27th December and 4 in the marshy fields at north end of Phewa Tal, Pokhara on the 30th. Pipit numbers well down compared to previous visits for the same reasons detailed above for White Wagtail.
238. Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris A typically tame individual in the grounds of our lodge at Thorung Phedi (4500m) was the sole record.
239. Altai Accentor Prunella himalayana A group of c20 birds feeding in a small garden in front of our lodge at Thorung Phedi was the sole record.
240. Robin Accentor Prunella rubeculoides In December singles at Manang and Yak Kharka on the 7th, Letdar and Thorung Phedi on the 8th and below Jharkot on the 10th.
241. Brown Accentor Prunella fulvescens Singles above Manang on 5th and 7th December.
242. Maroon-backed Accentor Prunella immaculata 1 seen feeding with a flock of Dark-breasted Rosefinches between Chitre and Ghorapani on 15th December.
243. Plain Mountain FinchLeucosticte nemoricola 6 at Gunsang on 7th December and 25 around Thorung Phedi the following day.
244. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata 12 seen from the track on the southern approach to the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November. 6 near Tatopani on 13th December.
245. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata 2 on the approach to the Peace Pagoda, Pokhara on 26th November.
246. Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs A male at Kalopani on 11th December.
247. Fire-fronted SerinSerinus pusillus A flock of 6 birds seen in the forest just below the Snowcock site above Manang on 6th December.
248. Dark-breasted Rosefinch Carpodacus nipalensis Following 10 on the approach to Chitre on 14th December birds seen on 4 of the following 7 trek days , max 30 between Khuldi and Chhomrong on the 21st.
249. Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinch Carpodacus pulcherrimus Seen on 9 days of the trek between 3rd and 19th December, max 60between Dhukur Pokhari and Bragha on 4th December. Birds seen as high as 4300m (upper limit in winter per Rasmussen 3600m).
250. Pink-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus rodochroa In December: 2 females at Ghorapani on the 15th, a male at Tadapani on the 18th and a female near Chhomrong on the 19th.
251. Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus thura A female on the ridge between Ghorapani and Deorali Tea Rooms on 16th December was the only record.
252. Red-fronted Rosefinch Pyrrhospiza pinicea* Excellent views of a female around the lodge at Thorung Phedi on 8th December.
253. Crimson-browed Finch Propyrrhula subhimachala 2 females on the lower slopes of Poon Hill and later the same day spectacular views of a male at Ghorapani on 15th December.
254. Brown Bullfinch Pyrrhulla nipalensis Very lucky with this one. On 2nd January on the way up Phulchowki mountain we had to stop behind a broken down vehicle. We got out of the car for a look around and heard birds calling close by. A feeding flock of around 10 birds was quickly located and we had good prolonged views.
255. Red-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythrocephala A flock of 7 at Ghorapani on 15th December.
256. White-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes 5 seen between Bhratang and Dhukur Pokhari on 3rd December and 12 the following morning close to the lodge at DP.
257. Rock Bunting Emberiza cia In December: 3 near Pisang on the 4th, 2 half way to the Snowcock site above Manang on the 6th and 2 at Kalopani on the 11th.
Other wildlife seen
Reptiles
Kashmiri Agama Laudakia tuberculata A fairly high altitude species, at least two seen and preferring scrubby, rocky areas
Mammals
Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta
Hanuman Langur Presbytis entellus
Himalayan Weasel Mustela sibirica One seen foraging in low vegetation outside Yak karka
Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula Two seen together foraging on the border of the forest edge and a small vegetable garden at our guesthouse in Ghorepani.
Indian Muntjac Muntiacus muntjac A small group seen feeding quietly inside the forest just above Chitre
Himalayan Tahr Hemitragus jemlahicus A group of four including a fine male seen between Dobhan and Himalaya Hotel.
Bharal (Blue Sheep) Pseudois nayaur First seen above Manang, occasional after that.