BACKGROUND:
Mr. Master is a long-time client of mine. Friend, at this point, in fact. This was his second trip to Colombia. During his first trip to Colombia, I took him throughout the Northern section of all three Cordilleras visiting the network of ProAves’ preserves en route. We also spent time at ProAves’ Magdalena Valley preserve, El Paujil. The goal of the first trip was to see all possible endemics and life birds for Mr. Master, knowing that this would be the first trip of two, in an attempt to see all accessible, known, Colombian endemics without running security or logistical risk. The first trip was a massive success. This second trip proved no different, netting all but one of our targeted endemic species.
Given the comprehensive nature of the first tour, we were left only needing to bird dry portions of the Magdalena Valley, foothill elevations of both slopes of the Central Andes, and temperate forest of the Central Andes around, and South of, Manizales. The other region not be missed, and for which Colombia seems to be most famous for, is the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and the Guajira Coast. So, the itinerary was put together to allow for more-than-adequate-time to see the endemics and many of the other birds that would be new for Bernard.
The trip had with few delays, landslides, or any such setbacks. That is, save for one day in which 3.5 hours estimated drive-time revealed an 8 hour actual drive-time on the highway that the locals like to call “The Knife”, connecting Ibague on the East side of the Central Cordilleran chain and Pereira, Cali, and Highways on the West side of the Central Cordilleran chain. This road is “the” road from East to West. All the large freight trucks use this road. It was under construction. It was pretty bad...need I say more?
The rest of the trip was nearly flawless. Accommodations were decent to great, with ProAves’ El Dorado Lodge and Rio Blanco being our favorites. Food was good to great across the board, as is usually the case in Colombia. Transport was also great, though the road up into the Sierra de Santa Marta is, and will most likely always be, horrendous and tough. Is it worth the trip? OF COURSE! Just bring Advil….
Weather was great and the birding followed suit. We lost few birding hours to climate, but rather took a leisurely pace when relative success in the field allow for it. This was, thankfully, often. It is definitely nice to have an optional afternoon nap penciled in to the itinerary in a place where, more often than not, a birder finds him or herself needing to be out in the field dawn to dusk in search of the vast array of targets that will haunt their list of “bird missed” if best effort is not put forth. Due to Mr. Master having seen more than 75% of the planet’s bird species and having fewer than 120 possible in the entire country, we were only looking for difficult, range-restricted species. We needed to be focused, prepared, and…well…get lucky. All three factors for our success were in abundance. Mr. Master went home with 53 lifers, of the 74 possible on our route, and was more than happy!
Overall, it was a fantastic, fun, trip with tons of diversity in habitats, birds, and we had no trouble getting around, and enjoying our time. Colombian hospitality remains legendary.
We were impressed with the group of preserves we visited. Nearly all properties we visited belonged to ProAves. Their network protects some 70% of Colombian endemic and endangered species. Also very worthy of note is the Rio Blanco Preserve. They have done an incredible job of stewardship and conservation there. For more information on how to visit, donate, or simply learn more about the organizations responsible visit:
ProAves – www.proaves.org
Rio Blanco – www.fundegar.org
Other organizations that are key in Avian Conservation in South America include:
American Bird Conservancy – www.abcbirds.org
The Nature Conservancy – www.nature.org
World Land Trust – www.worldlandtrust.org
Please be sure to visit their websites, and do your part in saving the birds you diligently travel to see. For any more specific information regarding this trip, or information regarding birding ecotourism and tours in Colombia, feel free to e-mail the author at rowbird2005@gmail.com
OVERVIEW:
Rather than a day-by-day itinerary giving a thorough account of sought-after birds and where to find them (the more customary of my formats), I’d rather just take the time only to mention the sites we visited and on what day. Time of day, and so forth, would really be irrelevant, and the effort we put forth at each site varied greatly. Our pace was leisurely and probably not that of most tours. Therefore, I don’t want to give the impression that you can spend from 7-10am, and 3-7pm, each day and expect to see all the birds at any given site. In our specific case, we needed only seek out 5-8 birds, at most, at any given site, save for the Santa Marta region where birding is generally quite easy, anyways. Without further adieux:
March 7th – El Jardin Encantado (hummingbird gardens), Laguna Tabacal, Honda
March 8th – Libano area, El Palmar near Ibague
March 9th – Tolima Dove sites near Ibague (undisclosed/not recommended currently), Los Nevados NP, lower entrance
March 10th – Fuertes-Giles Preserve, 8-hr drive to Pereira
March 11th – Otun Quimbaya
March 12th – Otun Quimbaya to Rio Blanco
March 13th –Rio Blanco
March 14th – Rio Blanco to Manizales
March 15th – Los Nevados NP
March 16th – Flights to Riohacha, birding PM Los Camarones
March 17th – Los Camarones area
March 18th – Bird/Drive to Minca, PM Minca
March 19th – Santa Marta/Vale in AM, PM drive to El Dorado via Minca
March 20th – El Dorado/Sierra Nevada Santa Marta
March 21st – El Dorado/Sierra Nevada Santa Marta
March 22nd – El Dorado AM, afternoon flights to Bogota. Night Flights to USA
TINAMIDAE
Little Tinamou
ANATIDAE
White-faced Whistling-Duck
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck
Blue-winged Teal
Andean Teal
Ruddy Duck
CRACIDAE
Sickle-winged Guan
Band-tailed Guan
Andean Guan
Cauca Guan
Chestnut-winged Chachalaca
Colombian Chachalaca
Rufous-vented Chachalaca
ODONTHOPHORIDAE
Crested Bobwhite
Black-fronted Wood-Quail
Chestnut Wood-Quail
PODICIPEDIDAE
Pied-billed Grebe
PHOENICOPTERIDAE
American Flamingo
PELECANIDAE
Brown Pelican
PHALACROCORACIDAE
Neotropical Cormorant
FREGATIDAE
Magnificent Frigatebird
ARDEIDAE
Striated Heron
Cattle Egret
Great Blue Heron
Great Egret
Cocoi Heron
Capped Heron
Tricolored Heron
Reddish Egret
Snowy Egret
Little Blue Heron
THRESKIORNITHIDAE
White Ibis
Scarlet Ibis
Glossy Ibis
Bare-faced Ibis
Roseate Spoonbill
CATHARTIDAE
Turkey Vulture
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture
(American) Black Vulture
King Vulture
PANDIONIDAE
Osprey
ACCIPITRIDAE
White-tailed Kite
Pearl Kite
Double-toothed Kite
Sharp-shinned Hawk
Cooper's Hawk
Crane Hawk
Savanna Hawk
Black-collared Hawk
Roadside Hawk
Broad-winged Hawk
White-rumped Hawk
Grey Hawk
Short-tailed Hawk
White-tailed Hawk
Variable Hawk
Swainson's Hawk
Harris' Hawk
Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle
Black Hawk-Eagle
Ornate Hawk-Eagle
Black-and-Chestnut Eagle
FALCONIDAE
Laughing Falcon
Barred Forest-Falcon
Collared Forest-Falcon
Crested Caracara
Yellow-headed Caracara
American Kestrel
Merlin
Peregrine Falcon
Bat Falcon
RALLIDAE
Rufous-necked Wood-Rail
Spot-flanked Gallinule
White-throated Crake
American Coot
CHARADRIIDAE
Southern Lapwing
American Golden Plover
Black-belled Plover
Semipalmated Plover
Wilson's Plover
Snowy Plover
Collared Plover
Killdeer
HAEMATOPODIDAE
American Oystercatcher
RECURVIROSTRIDAE
Black-necked Stilt
BURHINIDAE
Double-striped Thick-Knee
SCOLOPACIDAE
Short-billed Dowitcher
Marbled Godwit
Hudsonian Whimbrel
Spotted Sandpiper
Greater Yellowlegs
Lesser Yellowlegs
Solitary Sandpiper
Willet
Semipalmated Sandpiper
Western Sandpiper
Least Sandpiper
White-rumped Sandpiper
Pectoral Sandpiper
JACANIDAE
Wattled Jacana
LARIDAE
Laughing Gull
Franklin's Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Caspian Tern
Forster's Tern
Gull-billed Tern
Sandwich Tern
Royal Tern
Black Skimmer
COLUMBIDAE
Common Ground-Dove
Plain-breasted Ground-Dove
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Maroon-chested Ground-Dove
Scaled Dove
Rock Pigeon
Bare-eyed Pigeon
Band-tailed Pigeon
Pale-vented Pigeon
Plumbeous Pigeon
Ruddy Pigeon
Eared Dove
White-tipped Dove
Tolima Dove
Lined Quail-Dove
PSITTACIDAE
Military Macaw
Golden-plumed Parakeet
Blue-crowned Parakeet
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet
Brown-throated Parakeet
Santa Marta Parakeet
Green-rumped Parrotlet
Blue-winged Parrotlet
Spectacled Parrotlet
Orange-chinned Parakeet
Rusty-faced Parrot
Fuertes' Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Bronze-winged Parrot
Red-billed Parrot
Speckle-faced Parrot
Orange-winged Parrot
Scaly-naped Parrot
CUCULIDAE
Squirrel Cuckoo
Dark-billed Cuckoo
Smooth-billed Ani
Groove-billed Ani
Greater Ani
Striped Cuckoo
STRIGIDAE
Colombian Screech-Owl
Tropical Screech-Owl
Santa Marta Screech-Owl
White-throated Screech-Owl
Mottled Owl
Rufous-banded Owl
Black-and-white Owl
Andean Pygmy-Owl
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl
Burrowing Owl
CAPRIMULGIDAE
Common Pauraque
Band-winged Nightjar
NYCTIBIIDAE
Common Potoo
APODIDAE
Chestnut-collared Swift
White-collared Swift
Chapman's Swift
Band-rumped Swift
Gray-rumped Swift
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift
TROCHILIDAE
White-necked Jacobin
Rufous-breasted Hermit
Pale-bellied Hermit
Green Hermit
Tawny-bellied Hermit
Sooty-capped Hermit
Long-billed Hermit
Wedge-billed Hummingbird
Brown Violet-ear
Green Violetear
Sparkling Violetear
Black-throated Mango
Tourmaline Sunangel
Speckled Hummingbird
Blossomcrown
Long-tailed Sylph
Purple-backed Thornbill
Black-backed Thornbill
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill
Bearded Helmetcrest
Tyrian Metaltail
Viridian Metaltail
Mountain Avocetbill
Greenish Puffleg
Glowing Puffleg
Black-thighed Puffleg
Golden-breasted Puffleg
Shining Sunbeam
Bronzy Inca
Collared Inca
White-tailed Starfrontlet
Buff-winged Starfrontlet
Mountain Velvetbreast
Sword-billed Hummingbird
Great Sapphirewing
Buff-tailed Coronet
Velvet-purple Coronet
White-tailed Hillstar
Fawn-breasted Brilliant
Long-billed Starthroat
White-bellied Woodstar
Gorgeted Woodstar
Santa Marta Woodstar
Red-billed Emerald
Coppery Emerald
Short-tailed Emerald
Lazuline Sabrewing
Santa Marta Sabrewing
White-vented Plumeleteer
Violet-crowned Woodnymph
Buffy Hummingbird
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Andean Emerald
Steely-vented Hummingbird
Indigo-capped Hummingbird
Sapphire-throated Hummingbird
White-chinned Sapphire
TROGONIDAE
Golden-headed Quetzal
White-tipped Quetzal
Gartered Trogon
Collared Trogon
Masked Trogon
ALCEDINIDAE
Ringed Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
MOMOTIDAE
Whooping Motmot
Highland Motmot
GALBULIDAE
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
BUCCONIDAE
White-necked Puffbird
Russet-throated Puffbird
Moustached Puffbird
RAMPHASTIDAE
Keel-billed Toucan
Channel-billed Toucan
Emerald Toucanet
Groove-billed Toucanet
Crimson-rumped Toucanet
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan
Black-billed Mountain-Toucan
Collared Araçari
PICIDAE
Olivaceous Piculet
Scaled Piculet
Greyish Piculet
Chestnut Piculet
Beautiful Woodpecker
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Smoky-brown Woodpecker
Red-rumped Woodpecker
Yellow-vented Woodpecker
Bar-bellied Woodpecker
Golden-olive Woodpecker
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Crimson-crested Woodpecker
Powerful Woodpecker
FURNARIIDAE
Gray-throated Leaftosser
Chestnut-winged Cinclodes
Stout-billed Cinclodes
Pale-legged Hornero
Andean Tit-Spinetail
Azara's Spinetail
Pale-breasted Spinetail
Rufous Spinetail
Rusty-headed Spinetail
Slaty Spinetail
White-whiskered Spinetail
Streak-capped Spinetail
Ash-browed Spinetail
White-chinned Thistletail
Streak-backed Canastero
Many-striped Canastero
Rusty-winged Barbtail
Spotted Barbtail
Pearled Treerunner
Streaked Tuftedcheek
Montane Foliage-gleaner
Lineated Foliage-gleaner
Striped Treehunter
Flammulated Treehunter
Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner
Plain Xenops
Streaked Xenops
Tyrannine Woodcreeper
Strong-billed Woodcreeper
Black-banded Woodcreeper
Straight-billed Woodcreeper
Cocoa Woodcreeper
Streak-headed Woodcreeper
Montane Woodcreeper
Red-billed Scythebill
THAMNOPHILIDAE
Black-crested Antshrike
Barred Antshrike
Bar-crested Antshrike
Western Slaty-Antshrike
Black-backed Antshrike
White-fringed Antwren
Long-tailed Antbird
Jet Antbird
White-bellied Antbird
GRALLARIIDAE
Scaled Antpitta
Moustached Antpitta
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta
Santa Marta Antpitta
Bicolored Antpitta
Chestnut-naped Antpitta
Tawny Antpitta
Brown-banded Antpitta
Rufous Antpitta ssp.spatiator
Slate-crowned Antpitta
Ochre-breasted Antpitta
Rusty-breasted Antpitta
RHINOCRYPTIDAE
Blackish Tapaculo
Santa Marta Tapaculo
Brown-rumped Tapaculo
Spillmann's Tapaculo
Paramo Tapaculo
Ocellated Tapaculo
TYRANNIDAE
Black-capped Tyrannulet
Ashy-headed Tyrannulet
Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
Greenish Elaenia
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Mountain Elaenia
Lesser Elaenia
Sierran Elaenia
White-tailed Tyrannulet
White-banded Tyrannulet
White-throated Tyrannulet
Agile Tit-Tyrant
Torrent Tyrannulet
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet
Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant
Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant
Venezuelan Tyrannulet
Golden-faced Tyrannulet
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant
Variegated Bristle-Tyrant
Streak-necked Flycatcher
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher
Slaty-capped Flycatcher
Sepia-capped Flycatcher
Rufous-breasted Flycatcher
Northern Scrub-Flycatcher
Slender-billed Inezia
Pale-tipped Tyrannulet
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant
Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher
Yellow-olive Flycatcher
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher
Olivaceous Flatbill
Cinnamon Flycatcher
Acadian Flycatcher
Alder Flycatcher
Western Wood-Pewee
Tropical Pewee
Olive-sided Flycatcher
Smoke-colored Pewee
Black Phoebe
Vermilion Flycatcher
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant
Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant
Smoky Bush-Tyrant
Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant
Pied Water-Tyrant
Crowned Chat-Tyrant
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant
Cattle Tyrant
Piratic Flycatcher
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
Great Kiskadee
Lesser Kiskadee
Golden-crowned Flycatcher
Streaked Flycatcher
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Gray Kingbird
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Apical Flycatcher
Venezuelan Flycatcher
Panama Flycatcher
Pale-edged Flycatcher
Great Crested Flycatcher
Brown-crested Flycatcher
Bright-rumped Attila
COTINGIDAE
Green-and-black Fruiteater
Barred Fruiteater
Golden-breasted Fruiteater
Red-crested Cotinga
Red-ruffed Fruitcrow
Dusky Piha
PIPRIDAE
White-bearded Manakin
Lance-tailed Manakin
TITYRIDAE
Barred Becard
Cinereous Becard
Cinnamon Becard
Black-and-white Becard
VIREONIDAE
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Black-billed Peppershrike
Yellow-throated Vireo
Brown-capped Vireo
Red-eyed Vireo
Yellow-green Vireo
Black-whiskered Vireo
Rufous-naped Greenlet
Golden-fronted Greenlet
Scrub Greenlet
CORVIDAE
Black-collared Jay
Black-chested Jay
Green Jay
HIRUNDINIDAE
Blue-and-white Swallow
Brown-bellied Swallow
Pale-footed Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Brown-chested Martin
Gray-breasted Martin
Purple Martin
White-winged Swallow
Bank Swallow
Barn Swallow
TROGLODYTIDAE
Mountain Wren
House Wren
Sedge Wren
Band-backed Wren
Stripe-backed Wren
Bicolored Wren
Black-bellied Wren
Whiskered Wren
Rufous-breasted Wren
Buff-breasted Wren
Rufous-and-white Wren
Rufous Wren
Sharpe's Wren
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren
Chestnut-breasted Wren
POLIOPTILIDAE
Long-billed Gnatwren
Tropical Gnatcatcher
TURDIDAE
Andean Solitaire
Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush
Gray-cheeked Thrush
Swainson's Thrush
Yellow-legged Thrush
Pale-breasted Thrush
Pale-vented Thrush
Clay-colored Thrush
Black-billed Thrush
Black-hooded Thrush
Great Thrush
Glossy-black Thrush
MIMIDAE
Tropical Mockingbird
THRAUPIDAE
White-capped Tanager
Black-capped Hemispingus
Superciliaried Hemispingus
Oleaginous Hemispingus
Black-eared Hemispingus
Black-headed Hemispingus
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager
White-shouldered Tanager
White-lined Tanager
Crimson-backed Tanager
Flame-rumped Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Glaucous Tanager
Palm Tanager
Blue-capped Tanager
Hooded Mountain-Tanager
Black-chested Mountain-Tanager
Santa Marta Mountain-Tanager
Lachrymose Mountain-Tanager
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager
Grass-green Tanager
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager
Golden-crowned Tanager
Fawn-breasted Tanager
Multicolored Tanager
Black-headed Tanager
Black-capped Tanager
Scrub Tanager
Blue-necked Tanager
Blue-and-black Tanager
Beryl-spangled Tanager
Metallic-green Tanager
Bay-headed Tanager
Saffron-crowned Tanager
Golden Tanager
Silver-throated Tanager
Swallow Tanager
Black-faced Dacnis
Blue Dacnis
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Blue-backed Conebill
Capped Conebill
Rusty Flowerpiercer
Glossy Flowerpiercer
Black Flowerpiercer
Bluish Flowerpiercer
White-sided Flowerpiercer
Masked Flowerpiercer
Black-backed Bush-Tanager
Plushcap
Rosy Thrush-Tanager
Bananaquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Dull-colored Grassquit
Sooty Grassquit
Black-faced Grassquit
Buff-throated Saltator
Black-winged Saltator
Grayish Saltator
Masked Saltator
Orinocan Saltator
Streaked Saltator
EMBERIZIDAE
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch
Saffron Finch
Blue-black Grassquit
Plumbeous Seedeater
Black-and-White Seedeater
Grey Seedeater
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Band-tailed Seedeater
Plain-colored Seedeater
Paramo Seedeater
Colombian Brush-finch
Black-striped Sparrow
Tocuyo Sparrow
Golden-winged Sparrow
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch
Stripe-headed Brush-Finch
Black-headed Brush-Finch
White-naped Brush-Finch
Santa Marta Brush-Finch
Pale-naped Brush-Finch
Yellow-headed Brush-Finch
Common Bush-Tanager
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager
Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch
Slaty Brush-Finch
Pileated Finch
CARDINALIDAE
Summer Tanager
Red-hooded Tanager
Crested Ant-Tanager
Golden-bellied Grosbeak
Rose-breasted Grosbeak
Vermilion Cardinal
Blue-black Grosbeak
Indigo Bunting
PARULIDAE
Golden-winged Warbler
Tennessee Warbler
Tropical Parula
Yellow Warbler
Bay-breasted Warbler
Blackburnian Warbler
Magnolia Warbler
Cerulean Warbler
American Redstart
Black-and-white Warbler
Prothonotary Warbler
Louisiana Waterthrush
Northern Waterthrush
Mourning Warbler
Masked Yellowthroat
Canada Warbler
Slate-throated Whitestart
Golden-fronted Whitestart
Yellow-crowned Whitestart
Gray-throated Warbler
Citrine Warbler
Black-crested Warbler
White-lored Warbler
Russet-crowned Warbler
Rufous-capped Warbler
Three-striped Warbler
Santa Marta Warbler
Buff-rumped Warbler
ICTERIDAE
Crested Oropendola
Mountain Cacique
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Venezuelan Troupial
Yellow-tailed Oriole
Orange-crowned Oriole
Orchard Oriole
Yellow-backed Oriole
Yellow Oriole
Carib Grackle
Yellow-hooded Blackbird
Giant Cowbird
Shiny Cowbird
Great-tailed Grackle
FRINGILLIDAE
Andean Siskin
Yellow-bellied Siskin
Lesser Goldfinch
Trinidad Euphonia
Velvet-fronted Euphonia
Thick-billed Euphonia
Golden-rumped Euphonia
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Blue-naped Chlorophonia
Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia
Species Total: 621
Endemics: 40
Guajira Endemics: 13
Target Birds missed: Rufous-fronted Parakeet