Three of us flew with Easyjet from London Gatwick to Barcelona for a few days walking and birdwatching in the Eastern Pyrenees. With no hitches at either airport but a rather long queue at the Europcar car hire desk (no-one at the adjoining Avis desk and Hertz didn’t even bother opening the shutters), we arrived at the Hotel Els Encantats (highly recommended and good value at Eur70/night for single room half-board) in the charming village of Espot, in time for a beer and dinner. The only birds of note en route were fly-over Red Kite and Hoopoe, near Sort.
Friday 3rd June
A pre-breakfast stroll around the village produced House Sparrows, House and Crag Martins, Barn Swallows, Serin, Black Redstart, Coal Tit and Raven; plus a Dipper and Grey Wagtail on the fast flowing river by the dam wall just downstream of the hotel.
After breakfast, we drove the short distance up to the Prat de Pierro car park at the boundary of the Aiguestortes National Park (this is as far you can drive; no cars are allowed into the Park itself) and spent the day on a circular walk to the lake at Sant Maurici lake, onto Ratera lake and then round to the viewpoint (Mirador de l’Estany) at the western end of the valley, returning to the east end of Sant Maurici lake and back along the track to the car park (taking a leisurely 6 or 7 hours to complete).
Along the track to the first lake, we heard Black Woodpecker a couple of times and had a brief fly-over view. Most of the calling ‘crests’ were of the Gold variety but a Firecrest was heard and seen a few hundred metres from the car park. Other birds along here included Robin, Blackcap, Chaffinch, Chiffchaff, Coal Tit, Blue Tit, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Dunnock, Mistle Thrush, Jay & Crag Martin, with several Griffon Vultures soaring high over the valley.
We could only muster Mallard and Grey Wagtail on the lake itself. While enjoying lunch half way along the northern shore of the lake, we had good views of a Lammergeier patrolling high over the southern side of the valley, apparently undeterred by a quite heavy (but brief) shower of hail and rain. On reaching Ratera lake, we again saw Mallard (pair) and a single Grey Wagtail with a Lammergeier again showing well over the peak to the north. At the mirador, we saw several Crested & Coal Tits, and the Lammergeier (presumably the same bird each time) put on another good show. We then spent several minutes debating whether an eagle shaped rock on the skyline near the twin peaks of Els Encantats was in fact ‘Golden’. The discussion was finally clinched when a Golden Eagle flew in, mobbed the ‘stone’, and landed next to its partner. Several Chough were seen flying distantly, but we were unable to determine which of the two species they were. Retracing our steps along the track back to the car park, we picked up a flock of half a dozen Citril Finch in an open meadow area fairly near the car park and added Long-tailed Tit to the list.
Saturday 4th June
A brief pre-breakfast stroll produced Dipper and Grey Wagtail on the river together with the usual suspects. As we commented on the total lack of Common Swifts, two Rock Buntings at the eastern end of the main village car park took us slightly by surprise. A Wryneck and Green Woodpecker were also heard in the distance. After breakfast, we walked from the hotel across the road to the ‘taxi’ rank where we hoped that we might find at least 3 more people (minimum 6 people) wanting to get a ride up the mountain to Estany (lake) Negre de Peguera. Fortunately, we didn’t have long to wait; a couple of French families were happy to share and we were soon on our way on the hour plus ride up to the lake (at 2320m) - quite an experience and thoroughly recommended (Eur20 per person one way).
On arrival at the lake, we quickly spotted a Lammergeier flying around one the nearby peaks in the mist; a good omen to be sure. A Rock Thrush was heard and seen briefly flying away and out of sight. We also had a likely Water Pipit by the lake edge before making our way back down the 1000m descent to Espot. Birds en-route included Chough flying around distant peaks (too far away to identify the species), Treecreeper (likely Eurasian but Short-toed can’t be ruled out; unfortunately the bird only called and didn’t utter its more easily differentiated song), Chiffchaff, Robin, Dunnock, Chaffinch, Citril Finch, Crested Tit, Long-tailed Tit, Black Redstart, Mistle Thrush, Common Buzzard – and from time to time Griffon Vultures over the valley sides.
Sunday 5th June
Having first checked in the National Park office (located next to the taxi rank in Espot) that our proposed route was in fact suitable for a standard hire car, we drove from Espot to the Refugi de la Font, via the village of Jou, keeping a keen but unsuccessful eye out for the elusive and almost mythical Capercaillie which we were told frequent this extensive woodland. Reaching the car park a few hundred metres before the actual refuge (the track is barriered at this point), we then walked up to the beautifully located hostel (at 2015m) and took a few minutes admiring the magnificent view from the nearby mirador, looking down on Espot, where we saw our first Common Swifts, a Kestrel and a single Red-billed Chough, with a Cuckoo calling nearby. We then walked west along the ridge, through woodland (plenty of Crested and Coal Tits), into an open area of meadow (where a Crossbill first alerted its presence by its characteristic ‘chip-chip’ call, then landed on top of a nearby tree) and finally climbed steeply up towards Mil Potros (at 2595m) and the higher peak of El Pineto. Along the way, we saw Meadow Pipit, Bullfinch, Skylark, Northern Wheatear, Ring Ouzel and Citril Finch. An Alpine Marmot seemed totally unfazed by our presence, giving us good views as it scampered away through the rocks before finally taking refuge in one of the many holes that were scattered throughout the area. By contrast, a Pyrenean Chamois or Izzard seemed a little more skittish as it made its way across a nearby rocky ravine. On the way back in the car via the village of Son, we quadrupled the mammal list with first a Fallow deer and then a Roe deer; and again saw several Citril Finch in the longer meadow grass.
Monday 6th June
We drove via Esterri d’Aneu (where we added Collared Dove) up to the high mountain pass of Salurdu Vielha, parking in the ample car park opposite the ski lift station. The footpath to Estany de Gerber looked promising and a little less steep than the previous day’s strenuous climb. The stream by the ski lift looked good for Water Pipit but we failed to see one; The open meadow area before the woods held Cuckoo, Dunnock, Black Redstart, Citril Finch, Rock Bunting and Linnet while a Kestrel flew around the nearby hills. As we gently climbed through the woodland towards Lake Gerber, we noted numerous Crested Tits along with Wren, Chaffinch, Chiffchaff, Mistle Thrush and Goldcrest. As we approached the main lake, we heard a Marmot make its distinctive whistling alarm call and a Ring Ouzel perched high above us. We returned the same way, adding little to the list but enjoyed seeing the Rock Bunting in the same place on our return. The weather closed in abruptly as we got back into the car, and we decided to chance our luck at the pool at the very top of the pass (2072m) where a Redshank had been seen in late May last year. Unfortunately, we could only muster a Mallard, with a Northern Wheatear close by, as the cloud closed in and the rain began to fall in earnest.
Tuesday 7th June
With the cloud hanging low on the valley sides and the weather looking decidedly unsettled, we decided on a leisurely breakfast before starting the 4 hour drive back to Barcelona for our flight home. Heading south in torrential rain, we hoped that the weather would improve by the time we reached our first intended stop; the lake at Sant Llorenc de Montgai, described in Jacqui Crozier’s guide. Before that however, we had a brief stop at the dam at Talarn, just north of Tremp. In just a couple of minutes, a Black Kite drifted past as Nightingales and Sardinian Warblers moved through the scrub. Woodpigeon was added to the list as well. As luck would have it, the sun shone as we arrived at the village of Sant Llorenc, 10km north of Balageur. As we drank a welcome coffee on the terrace of the bar overlooking the lake, we saw 5 Purple Heron, upwards of a dozen Grey Heron, 2 Marsh Harriers, a Bee-eater and Blue Rock Thrush, all the while accompanied by several Great Reed Warblers and Nightingales singing below us. We then moved down to the lakeside itself for close views of a showy Great Reed Warbler; a Little Bittern twice flew across our line of sight. The Crozier guide refers to the cliffs on the eastern shore as a breeding site for Bonelli’s Eagle (and Eagle Owl) but unfortunately we had no new information as to whether this still held true, 13 years after publication (but note that Steve Mann saw two Bonelli’s Eagles here in June 2000). Griffon Vultures and a lone Kestrel were the only raptors we could see in the hour or so we were there. Still, this is a superb site and one I’m sure that we’ll return to in future years.
References:
Books: A Birdwatching Guide to the Pyrenees, Jacqui Crozier 1998
Trip Reports: Naturetrek tour - Eastern Pyrenees each May: 2010 Report 2009 Report
Maps: 2 Map Set Editorial Alpina (1:25,000) of the Aiguestortes National Park - buy at Stanfords online shop
Carrion Crow - Estany de Sant Maurici, the ski lift at Salardu Vielha
Red-billed Chough - a single seen at Refugi de la Font (many other Chough seen but too distant to identify)
Raven - several seen flying over Espot on various days
Magpie - common
Jay - common
Roller - two seen on plains in between Balageur and Tarrega
Mallard –Sant Maurici & Ratera lakes, 1 at Salurdu Vielha
Dipper - on river in Espot
Grey Wagtail - on river in Espot & Estany Sant Maurici
White Wagtail - several seen around Espot an elsewhere
Northern Wheatear - 1 near Mil Potros and 1 near Salurdu Vielha
Black Redstart - common
Rock Thrush
Meadow Pipit – on the slopes of Mil Potros
Skylark – on the slopes of Mil Potros
Ring Ouzel – on the slopes of Mil Potros, Lake Gerber
Blackbird - common
Mistle Thrush - common
House Sparrow - common in Espot
Serin - flocks of 30+ seen in Espot
Robin - common
Blackcap – Espot
Sardinian Warbler – one near dam at Talarn
Dunnock - very common
Coal Tit - very common
Great Tit - one seen in Espot
Crested Tit - common in the mixed pine/birch woodlands
Long-tailed Tit - seen in several places
Chiffchaff - common
Goldcrest - common in all the mixed woodland
Firecrest - one seen near the car park for Sant Maurici lake
Eurasian Treecreeper - one seen in woodland near Estany Negre de Peguera
Crag Martin - common
House Martin - common in all the nearby villages
Barn Swallow - common in Espot
Common Swift - Esterri d’Aneu, two seen near the Refuge Pla de la Font (none in Espot)
Woodpigeon – one seen near dam at Talarn
Green Woodpecker - one heard in Espot
Wryneck - one heard in Espot
Black Woodpecker - in the woods east of Sant Maurici lake
Green Woodpecker - one heard in Espot
Great Spotted Woodpecker - common
Nightingale - heard along the C-28 towards Salurdu Vielha, common at Sant Llorenc lake
Rock Bunting - 2 in Espot car park, 1 in the open meadow area just S of the car park at Salardu Vielha
Linnet - 2 in Espot car park and several seen at Salurdu Vielha
Greenfinch - at Sant Llorenc
Goldfinch - common in Espot
Chaffinch - very common
Bullfinch - two near Refugi Pla de la Font
Citril Finch – common in the open meadows
Crossbill - one near Refugi Pla de la Font
Wren - surprisingly hard to find but some heard and one seen
Collared Dove – at Esterri d’Aneu
Lammergeier – around the lakes at Sant Maurici lake and Negre de Peguera
Red Kite – one seen from car near Sort
Black Kite – at the reservoir near Talarn (just north of Tremp)
Griffon Vultures - many (highest single count was 12)
Kestrel - several
Common Buzzard - two seen near Espot
Golden Eagle - two seen on crags near the twin peaks of els Encantats
Cuckoo - common
Golden Oriole - seen from car, a few km south of Tremp
Bee-eater - at Sant Llorenc lake (& 1 seen from car near Tremp)
Marsh Harrier - 2 at Sant Llorenc lake
Purple Heron - at least 5 at Sant Llorenc lake
Grey Heron - at least 10 at Sant Llorenc lake
Little Bittern – one seen al Sant Llorenc lake
Great Reed Warbler - several at Sant Llorenc lake
Reed Warbler - at Sant Llorenc lake
Blue Rock Thrush – 1 at Sant Llorenc lake
Spotted Flycatcher – 1 at Sant Llorenc lake
Yellow-legged Gull – 1 at Sant Llorenc lake
Moorhen – several at Sant Llorenc Lake
Mammals:
Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus
Fallow Dear Dama dama
Alpine Marmot Marmota marmota
Pyrenean Chamois Rupicapra pyrenaica
Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris