Rain is a four-letter word. That bears some explanation, but it will have to wait. This account starts with the fact that I joined the Field Guides Incorporated tour of Suriname in March, 2011. I had previously signed on for their tour of Carajas in Brazil and was impressed by the service offered by FGI’s headquarters staff, by Bret Whitney’s expertise as a guide, and by the overall quality of the tour itself. So, when I saw they had a tour of Suriname with Bret as one of the guides right around the time I was planning to take a good hardcore birding vacation, it seemed pretty much ordained that I should take a spot on the trip.
As a resource I used “Birds of Northern South America” by Restall et al. Generally speaking it is an excellent if bulky resource with well-done plates. (I only purchased the volume with plates, and cannot speak to the quality of the companion volume of text.) At least one person knowledgeable about the birds of the region, however, has indicated that some groups such as the flycatchers are not accurately depicted.
In the following account I list the common names of birds followed by their scientific names in parentheses. Life birds are in all capitals. For the most part I will mention a bird only the first time in the trip it was seen, to avoid having to monotonously repeat such common sightings as Tropical kingbirds and Black vultures; if I do refer to a bird more than once, I will generally omit the scientific name in the second and succeeding appearances. Also, I have left out of this account a small number of birds that were seen by others in the group but not by me.
On the way to Suriname I had an overnight layover in Miami, where a friend from law school hosted me.
March 4
On the morning of March 4 my friend and I headed to Key Biscayne and Bill Baggs State Park, where a La Sagra’s flycatcher had been present for several weeks and a Cuban pewee had reportedly been sighted three days earlier. Unfortunately, it was a windy day and there was not much bird activity, so neither of the unusual flycatchers was located. Between the city driving and birding around Bill Baggs, the following were found: Rock pigeon (Columba livia), European starling (Sturnus vulgaris), Mourning dove (Zenaida macroura), White ibis (Eudocimus albus), Turkey vulture (Cathartes aura), Double-crested cormorant (Phalacrocorax auritus), American coot (Fulica americana), Ring-billed gull (Larus delawarensis), Great egret (Ardea alba), Laughing gull (Larus atricilla), Black vulture (Coragyps atratus), Northern mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos), Palm warbler (Dendroica palmarum), and Blue-gray gnatcatcher (Polioptila caerulea). My friend noticed a circling raptor and when I got on it I found it was a Mississippi kite (Ictinia mississippiensis) - at the time I did not realize what an unusual sighting it was for the park. Other birds found to round out our time at the park included Northern cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis), Common ground-dove (Columbina passerina), an invisible singing bird that was probably a Blue-headed vireo, and a Eurasian collared-dove (Streptopelia decaocto).
In the afternoon I caught a flight to Port-of-Spain in Trinidad, arriving as dusk fell. From there I continued to Paramaribo, the capital and principal city of Suriname, just inland from the coast. It was past midnight when we landed.
March 5
The shuttle from the hotel picked up me and a couple of other participants on the tour, as well as one of the two guides, Dan Lane. Dan was an affable guy with a slightly sardonic sense of humor, which fit in well with my own sensibilities.
Halfway to the hotel - which is to say, over half an hour into the ride, since Paramaribo is located an entirely unreasonable distance from the airport - the driver got a call by which he was advised that he had missed picking someone up. So we turned around, drove over half an hour back to the airport, picked up a fairly unsociable fellow who was not a tour participant and his wife/girlfriend/inappropriately handsy sister, and then started the trip to the hotel all over again, arriving at nearly two o’clock in the morning.
There I learned that the trip participant who was supposed to share my room had not arrived although he was expected much earlier. We wondered if he had a last-minute conflict arise to prevent him from joining the tour.
At 2:40 a.m. I learned to the contrary, as my roommate for some reason decided to knock repeatedly on the door rather than simply let himself. I suppose he was concerned that his as-yet-unfamiliar roommate might be the type to respond unfavorably if someone entered the room unexpectedly. By the time he finally settled in it was 3:30 and we were due to meet Bret Whitney and the other tour participants in the hotel restaurant in a little over three hours.
March 6
Sorry, folks, I’d like to tell you just how exactly I ended up down at the restaurant on time, but the whole thing is pretty blurry in memory. Anyway, Bret showed up and it was good to see him again. Aside from Bret and Dan - who kept referring to each other as “Dr. Lane” and “Dr. Whitney” for fun - there were nine of us on the trip, seven guys and two women. Notably, one of the women couldn’t have topped five feet in height, and due to a serious car accident in the distant past, she walked using a cane. I saw her tackle trails, and even clamber up a slick granite slope, using that damned cane in a way that would make you doubt your own eyes. It was impressive.
After breakfast we went outside to wait for our tour bus. Although we had several destinations in Suriname that would involve significant travel from Paramaribo, this first day was scheduled for relatively light activity to allow people to recover from the long plane trips of the day (and night) before. The bus was a little delayed in arriving so we did some birding while we waited. A small grassy lot next to the hotel afforded looks at Orange-winged amazon (Amazona amazonicus), Rusty-margined flycatcher (Myiozetetes cayanensis), Wing-barred seedeater (Sporophila americana), Silvery-beaked tanager (Ramphocelus carbo), and Pale-bellied thrush (Turdus leucomelas) - all fairly common in Suriname, especially the tanager. Soon the van arrived with a Surinamese all-around guide and helper named Chris. He usually worked in the government tax office, but he looked like a serious athlete.
My first life bird for the trip was sitting on a tree trunk in a field just a bit down the road from the hotel: a nicely perched SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis). Other birds seen on the ride through Paramaribo and on toward our first destination included Gray-breasted martin (Progne chalybea), Smooth-billed ani (Crotophaga ani), Ruddy ground-dove (Columbina talpacoti), and Great kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus).
Soon enough we arrived at Peperpot plantation. Well-cleared trails through wet jungle yielded some good birds, including Blackish antbird (Cercomacra nigrescens), a heard-only White-tipped dove (Leptotila verreauxi), CINEREOUS BECARD (Pachyramphus rufus), and Turquoise tanager (Tangara mexicana). The tour overall proved spectacular for woodpeckers of the Guianan shield, and this first foray yielded a beautiful CHESTNUT WOODPECKER (Celeus elegans). The aptly-named BLACK-CRESTED ANTSHRIKE (Sakesphorus candensis) and a GUIANAN PICULET (Picumnus minutissimus) both showed well, with the piculet coming uncharacteristically low for observation. Little cuckoo (Coccyua minuta), Ashy-headed greenlet (Hylophilus pectoralis), and American pygmy kingfisher (Chloroceryle aenea) were found, and one of the other tour participants called Bret’s attention to a euphonia that turned out to be the very-restricted-in-range FINSCH’S EUPHONIA (Euphonia finschi), a bird I was delighted to see. The first of many BUFF-BREASTED WRENS (Thryothorus leucotis) for the tour sang and was fairly readily found. Overhead Short-tailed swifts (Chaetura brachyura) and Lesser swallow-tailed swifts (Panyptila cayennensis) wheeled.
A calling kite from ahead and just off the path turned out to be an unusually cooperative SLENDER-BILLED KITE (Helicolestes hamatus) which we got in the scope and had all the time we wanted to examine. Bret advised that having such leisurely looks at a perched bird of the species was pretty fortunate. Straight-billed woodcreeper (Dendroplex picus) and the delicately tinged Cream-colored woodpecker (Celeus flavus) were appetizers for Peperpot’s main course, the aptly-named BLOOD-COLORED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis sanguineus). Two of these birds came down to eye level on a trunk right at the edge of the path and we all had marvelous looks at their dark crimson plumage. They seemed unconscious of our presence.
Another perched raptor proved to be a Hook-billed kite (Chondrohierax uncinatus) which also permitted great looks. Roadside hawk (Buteo magnirostris) was seen in flight, as well as a Gray hawk (Buto nitidus). Several Guianan specialties appeared with a group of birds in a spreading deciduous tree, including WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pahcyramphus polychopterus), YELLOW-CROWNED ELAENIA (Myiopagis flavivertex), and a PAINTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum pictum) that was at first reclusive in the top leaves but which eventually came very low for excellent views, its highly decorated face a real treat for study. A WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris) played tag with us back in the brush, and I finally got decent looks at a VIOLACEOUS EUPHONIA (Euphonia violacea). Nice low views were had of a SILVERED ANTBIRD (Sclateria naevia) showing the extensive scaly patterning of the Guianan shield form. The last bird we saw before leaving Peperpot was a soaring Greater yellow-headed vulture (Cathartes melambrotus).
We drove back to the hotel for lunch and rest, seeing Tropical mockingbird (Mimus gilvus) and Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) along the way. At the hotel I took a little time to stroll around the immediate environs, finding Little blue heron (Egretta caerulea) and Snowy egret (Egretta thula) on the beach in back, and Greyish saltator (Saltator coerulescens) and Yellow-bellied elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster) across the road in front of a residence. I initially misidentified the elaenia as Plain-crested, but upon later sighting of a confirmed yellow-bellied realized the mistake. This was what led to the review of the Restall book’s flycatcher plates and the pronouncement that they did not depict the group well. Other birds seen near the hotel were Yellow-headed caracara (Milvago chimachima) and Tropical kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus). With little activity and increasing heat, I decided to cut the expedition short and go back to catch a nap before the next outing.
Our afternoon jaunt was scheduled to take us through some long-grass field habitat and to the coast. On the way I was on the wrong side of the bus to get more than a glimpse of a Pied water-tyrant. The first Snail kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) I had ever seen well also appeared during this drive, and it would be followed by many more sightings, some of stellar quality. Cattle egrets (Bubulcus ibis) were also evident along the road margins.
The rural area of Marienberg and its field environs yielded PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis), BROWN-THROATED PARAKEET (Aratinga pertinax), Piratic flycatcher (Legatus leucophalus), and Barn swallow (Hirundo rustica). Fairly soon one of the tour participants found a target bird in the form of a juvenile RUFOUS CRAB-HAWK (Buetogallus aequinoctialis) perched in a tree overlooking a wide pond or inlet. Everyone got good scope views of the hawk, with its large beak and overall blunt appearance.
Some birds flitting around in medium-height deciduous brush included PALE-TIPPED INEZIA (Inezia caudata) or Pale-tipped tyrannulet, a somewhat nondescript bird that I had been interested to see. Others present here were a Mouse-colored tyrannulet (Phaeomyias murina) that was very well viewed, Spotted tody-flycatcher (Todirostrum maculatum), and an overflight of YELLOW-HOODED BLACKBIRDS (Chrysmus icterocephalus). We all hoped to see the blackbirds again under better circumstances.
We followed a small inlet to a bay, where one of us picked up a Peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus) flying over the water. Back toward the road, a pair of birds in a tiny bush proved to be BICOLORED CONEBILLS (Conirostrum bicolor). Bret was pleased to get us on these difficult-to-come-by birds under such uncharacteristically good conditions - they generally stick to the canopy.
We also had Palm tanager (Thraupis palmarum) and Lesser yellow-headed vulture (Cathartes burrovianus) before we headed back to the hotel. On the road again, a Black-necked aracari (Pteroglossus aracari) showed up. I had better looks at a PIED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola pica), and we all enjoyed nice views of a juvenile Snail kite very near the bus. Back at the hotel, the Savanna hawk showed well again, and we also found Blue-black grassquit (Volatinia jacarina) and White-winged swallow (Tachycineta albiventer).
That evening we enjoyed an excellent dinner at the hotel restaurant, and headed to our rooms to get some real rest.
March 6
We met in the hotel restaurant with bags packed for our first trip away from the Paramaribo area. Before we headed for the airport, however, we were due to spend a morning at the Paramaribo Botanical Gardens. On the way to the Gardens we had excellent looks at an adult Snail kite.
The Gardens were essentially like a large forested park, with straight biking/jogging lanes cutting through. The first new bird spotted at the Gardens themselves was a Gray kingbird (Tyrannus dominicensis). We found the first of several GLITTERING-THROATED EMERALDS (Amazilia fimbriata) for the tour here; few people saw this bird, but by the tour’s end everyone would have gotten satisfactory looks at at least one individual. Also present were Blue-gray tanager (Thraupis episcopus) and GREEN-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax viridigula). A Southern beardless-tyrannulet sang but was too far back in the foliage to see; although we heard at least three during the tour, we would never make a real effort to spot this bird.
In the area where Bret had traditionally found one of our target birds for the area, it turned out that the town had cut back the undergrowth well away from the paths, so he was concerned we might miss a real charismatic species. However, two of the tour participants spotted the bird while Bret was playing a tape, and we soon all had good looks at a male CRIMSON-HOODED MANAKIN (Pipra aureola), a very attractive and simply-plumaged creature - black on the body but with a bright red head. Although most had only fleeting looks, they left a distinct and attractive impression.
Heading back toward the bus, we heard Collared forest-falcon, but of course did not get a look at it. A RUFOUS-BREASTED HERMIT (Glaucis hirsutus) buzzed us and the first Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola) of the tour that I saw showed up. Out in a more open area, a cecropia yielded several birds including a YELLOW-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias flaviventris).
From the Gardens we headed to Zorg en Hoop Airport and took a small plane into the central wilds of Suriname. As we approached our destination we saw columns of mist rising from the canopy, an awesome and eerie sight that I thought really should be the introduction to any tropical rain forest experience. We landed on Foengoe Island, in the middle of the Coppename River near Raleigh Falls. Around the airstrip we found Chestnut-billed toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus), Green oropendolas (Psarocolius viridis) doing their courtship display, and MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa). Several Giant cowbirds (Molothrus oryzivorus) were grouped together in a tree and some Blue-headed parrots (Pinous menstruus) flew overhead.
At the end of the airstrip we had a view out over the river. A group of PAINTED PARAKEETS (Purrhura picta) flew by for decent flight views, showing the varicolored heads and white cheeks. A White-throated toucan (Ramphastos tucanus) showed well in the trees to our right, giving a call that would become a familiar sound on the tour. The river overlook proved excellent for macaws, and we had groups of both Red-and-green macaws (Ara chloropterus) and Blue-and-yellow macaws (Ara ararauna) fly by showing their dramatic colors. Other birds seen from the overlook were Red-rumped cacique and Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga).
We next crossed the small ridge that separated the airstrip area from the open-air dining shelter and our two-story lodge. The first of many handsome Swallow-wings (Chelidoptera tenebrosa) was perched up near the top of a tree here, and we also found Tropical gnatcatcher (Polioptila plumbea) and heard a Rufous-browed peppershrike which some people saw. Foengoe Island is a very small mid-river island and the dining area and lodge both were perched on the edge of the river. In trees clinging to the edge were a pair of Yellow-olive flycatchers (Tolmomyias sulphurescens), several Silver-beaked tanagers, and more Swallow-wings. We looked over the White-banded swallows (Atticora fasciata) to see if a Black-collared was among them, but it was not the right time of day. Across the river a Black caracara (Captrius ater) was perched up in a tree. A Spotted sandpiper (Actitis macularius) frequented the rocks near us, and we glimpsed a COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi) flying into a small corner of streamside vegetation on the other side of the river.
A pair of Red-fan parrots (Deroptyrus accipitrinus) overflew us and landed in a tree in ready view, where we were able to study them minutely through the scope, enjoying the intricate patterning of the plumage on their heads and particularly the unique fan structures. Across the river I picked up a flying Great black-hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga) but was unable to get others on it before it disappeared below the treeline.
After settling in we returned to the airstrip and birded the brush around the clearing. A crew of Golden-winged parakeets (Brotogeris chrysoptera) flew over. A Fork-tailed woodnymph (Thalurania furcata) appeared low in a bush; some had good looks at the bird, but not all of us. We would have many other opportunities to see this common species during our trip. A couple of Guianan shield specialties appeared in the forms of GUIANAN TYRANNULET (Zimmerius acer) and GUIANAN TOUCANET (Selenidera culik). With some work, Bret was able to bring out a TINY TYRANT-MANAKIN (Tyranneutes virescens) for good looks. Other birds present included Blue dacnis (Dacnis cayana), a beautiful male Red-legged honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus), flyover Scarlet macaws (Ara macao) - always crowd-pleasers, and a cloud of Band-rumped swifts (Chaetura spinicaudus). Finally, we found a Scaled pigeon (Patagioenas speciosa) that sat up for decent scope views.
With that, we took dinner in the fading light, prepared by Gracia, our cook, who was able to do amazing things with sauces. Almost enough to distract us from the fact that virtually every meal was chicken or fish - it was, after all, Suriname! The generators were only on for two hours per night, and since nightfall in the tropics always arrives around 6 p.m., evening there had a different and more relaxing pace than in civilization. It was kind of nice that at a certain point there was really nothing to do but hit the hay.
I assume you’re wondering why I made that comment about rain back at the beginning of this report. Patience. I’m getting to it.
March 7
The plan for the day was to take a trail beyond the staff housing area, then have lunch and spend the afternoon on the first part of the trail to a granite formation called the Voltzberg. Before breakfast I saw the Cocoi heron (formerly known as White-necked heron until someone figured out there was already a bird in Africa that owned that name) in the same spot as before.
Again sampling the brush around the airstrip, we found Yellow-crowned tyrannulet (Tyrannulus elatus) and White-shouldered tanager (Tachyphonus rufus) fairly quickly. A Long-billed gnatwren (Ramphocaenus melanurus) kept its distance, and although some of us got good looks at the unique physiology of this interesting and active little bird, it eluded others. We were buzzed by a few Straight-billed hermits but did not get good looks for the most part. A Dot-winged antwren (Microrhopias quixensis), one of the most familiar of its clan to me, also showed up.
Across the river we found a Bat falcon (Falco rufigularis) and a mostly-obscured RED-THROATED CARACARA (Ibycter americanus). A few Yellow-rumped caciques (Cacicus cela) flew by.
The trees yielded several good birds, including a LEMON-CHESTED GREENLET (Hylophilus thoracicus) that some of us got good looks at in the sunlight. Bret taped in a Slate-colored grosbeak (Saltator grossus) and then a HELMETED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus galeaus) that was initially recalcitrant but eventually showed its small figure with crested head for interesting studies. We heard the first of many Red-necked woodpeckers (Campephilus rubricollis) doing the characteristic Campephilus double-rap, although it would be a few days before we actually spotted one.
We kept working the brush and trees around the airstrip, finding Gray-breasted sabrewing (Campylopterus largipennis) and overhead a single CHAPMAN’S SWIFT (Chaetura chapmani) joining the commoner Band-rumped swifts and occasionally wheeling in good light to show the rump patch. A pair of GREEN ARACARI (Pteroglossus viridis) put on a good show for us and an unseen Squirrel cuckoo (Piaya cayana) called. My typical experience in the tropics has been that Squirrel cuckoo is an enthusiastically visible bird, but on this trip I think we only saw one or two.
A BLACK NUNBIRD (Monasa atra) drew us to a treetop with its calls, and Bret taped in a PARADISE JACAMAR (Galbula dea), a dark-plumaged exclamation point of a bird with a long dagger tail. Our jacamar luck continued with the appearance of a GREEN-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula galbula), and we also enjoyed the appearance of a Purple-throated fruitcrow (Querula purpurata), a briefly-visible Variable chachalaca (Ortalis motmot) (formerly Little chachalaca), and a crowd-pleasing BLACK-SPOTTED BARBET (Capito niger) courting pair.
We hit the trail beyond the staff quarters and soon found a FERRUGINOUS-BACKED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza ferruginea), a rather colorful and handsome bird for its group. A CINEREOUS MOURNER (Laniocera hypopyrra) appeared, and a mixed flock brought us BROWN-BELLIED ANTWREN (Epinecrophylla gutturalis) and GUIANAN STREAKED ANTWREN (Mymotherula surinamensis). Other birds found on the trail were MOUSE-COLORED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus murinus), White-browed antbird (Myrmoborus leucophrys), Amazonian antshrike (Thamnophilus amazonicus), and a CORAYA WREN (Throthorus coraya) that gave us a real challenge before it finally came in above eye level to show its smart markings.
Several Screaming pihas (Lipaugus vociferans) made their presence known in their time-honored fashion, and a YELLOW-THROATED WOODPECKER (Piculus flavigula) continued our streak with the woodpeckers of the Guianan shield. We were buzzed by a Long-tailed hermit and Bret pointed out some heliconias that we could return to after lunch if we wanted to stake them out hoping for a decent look at the hermit. A Musician wren sang and came close, but, alas, not close enough to see. This would prove an occasionally recurring circumstance - La Nina had brought an unusual amount of rain to Suriname’s small dry season, and it had thrown the birds off their breeding schedule, such that they were not driven by hormones to challenge the “birds” on Bret’s tape. It made it difficult to pull in birds and there was not a lot of spontaneous song to signal the presence of the various species. Woodcreepers in particular were uncharacteristically quiet.
Things on the trail quieted down even more with the approach of the lunch hour and we returned to the dining pavilion. There I noticed a Black-collared swallow (Pygochelidon melanoleuca) on the rocks in the river and called the others’ attention to it. At the time I thought it was a life bird but later realized we’d seen one at the bridge in Para, Brazil, where the Hyacinth macaws arrowed by.
After a pleasant lunch I tried staking out the heliconias on the trail as Bret had suggested. On the way I found another Black nunbird, this one at eye level and so close I could have reached out and touched it; so close that I could see the pseudo-bands on the tail caused by the light reflecting differently from the feathers. I also watched a large Avevia lizard with a subtle shading of color from its gray snout to the forest-green tip of its tail as it crawled into the trail and soaked in the sunshine. The hummingbird, unfortunately, did not make an appearance.
Early in the afternoon we took a boat downriver near the falls themselves (which had less in common with Niagara and more in common with raftable Class V rapids) and walked the first part of the trail to the Voltzberg. Bret marveled at the size of the puddles we had to skirt around at various low points on the trail, noting that in any other year the trails would be dry as dust by this time.
A Cinnamon attila (Attila cinnamoneus) was a quick find, and then a small mixed flock back in the understory yielded a WHITE-PLUMED ANTBIRD (Pithys albifrons). I got on the bird with my binoculars just slightly out of focus, but was able to see the dark body and the white line of the facial feathers standing upright with the beak at their fulcrum. Most of the others were less fortunate - by the trip’s end I think only two or three of us had a look at this species, which was a shame, because it truly is one of the most interesting and unusual of the antbirds.
Continuing on, we found BLACK-HEADED ANTBIRD (Percnostola rufifrons) and GUIANAN WARBLING ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis cantator). A large flying shape above head height surprised us, and flew up to a perch just out of my sight; it proved to be a LINEATED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur gilvicollis) which most of us did not see well, but we would get a much better look at the same bird in the same place the next day.
Other birds seen on the trail were Red-billed pied tanager (Lamprospiza melanoleuca), GOLDEN-COLLARED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis cassini), PURPLE HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes caeruleus), and a GUIANAN PUFFBIRD (Notharchus macrorhynchos) that one of the participants found at an entirely unreasonable height. We were able to view it through the scope nicely.
We returned to the trailhead and took the boat back to the lodge. A Ringed kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata) flew out and paralleled the boat. A CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus), which someone perspicaciously described as “French vanilla” in color, appeared on one of the banks.
After another dinner of either fish or chicken, with rice and then a small piece of cake for dessert, we repaired to our lodge rooms, looking forward to an all-day hike the next day to the Voltzberg and the hammock shelter where we would spend the succeeding night.
...I’m getting to it.
March 8
We returned first thing in the morning to the trailhead within sight of the falls, where we had one of the most notable sightings of the trip - a juvenile FASCIATED TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma fasciatum) that hopped from one level to another and otherwise returned our stares with equal if not greater aplomb. Fasciated tiger-heron has been recorded in Suriname only a handful of times, and it is exceedingly local there; apparently Raleigh Falls is one of those rare locations.
We started on the trail and soon found Cinereous antshrike (Thamnomanes caesius) and Gray antwren (Myrnotherula menetriesii). A Crimson-crested woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos) called, and Bret pointed out a DUSKY-THROATED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes ardesiacus). He was able to call in a Black-headed antbird for great looks. More birds in various flocks included Dusky antbird (Cercomacra tyrannina), Fasciated antshrike (Cymbilaimus lineatus), and an accommodating PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa). A STRAIGHT-BILLED HERMIT (Phathornis bourcieri) came in and hovered to inspect us, its long white central tail feathers shivering in the air.
A treetop above the general canopy held a pair of excellent woodpeckers: Waved woodpecker (Celeus undatus) and RINGED WOODPECKER (Celeus torquatus). A little further down the trail, Bret heard a good bird and lined us all up to wait for it to appear as he taped it in. It was a RINGED ANTPIPIT (Corythopis torquatus), a bird I had very much wanted to see. At first it picked the wrong places for me to see it, but eventually it perched on the end of a huge log and I was able to study it for a nice if brief space. Others in the group experienced more trouble finding it and we lingered at the spot for a while until everyone had a decent look.
Continuing on, we found a McConnell’s flycatcher (Mionectes macconnelli) and had very good looks at a Fork-tailed woodnymph. We worked off-trail for a particular target bird, one I had noted as a very restricted Guianan shield endemic, and without too much difficulty Bret taped in a BOAT-BILLED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus josephinae) that circled us for a long time, visiting various perches just above head height in an area of smaller trees. Notably, as my field guide indicated, the bird is in no way, shape, or form boat-billed, prompting the scientific question “What the hell?”
The next new bird for the trip was also a target bird, although not expected quite yet - a female GUIANAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK (Rupicola rupicola) came in to briefly view us. While not remotely as showy as the male of the species, the sight of the female was very welcome to the woman who used a cane, as she had decided not to risk going on past lunch to the Voltzberg and the next day’s expedition to the cock-of-the-rock lek - her plan was to return with her husband and the porters (who were bringing us lunch) to the trailhead and then to the lodge.
It was well past the time we had expected the porters to catch up to us on the trail with lunch and we were beginning to wonder if we would have to go all the way to dinner without a real meal. It looks foolish in print, but after a morning and half the afternoon hiking and birding, food becomes a serious issue. I had a couple of trail bars and I rationed them out to people. However, after we had rested at a convenient spot on a sloping part of the trail for about half an hour, the porters finally appeared with our food, having apparently disregarded Bret’s instructions regarding the time at which we wished to have lunch show up.
A raptor perched in a tree just down the slope from where we stopped, turned out to be the first Double-toothed kite (Harpagus bidentatus) I ever had a decent look at, and we were able to study it through the scope, albeit from almost directly underneath. A Ruddy-tailed flycatcher (Terenotriccus erythrurus) also showed up very close to the lunch spot.
After a very refreshing lunch, we bade farewell to the porters, the lady with the cane, and her husband, and we started onward to complete the trail to the Voltzberg and beyond to the rude hammock shelter where we would spend the night. I happened to be right behind Bret when a BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cumanensis) showed itself briefly in the trees to our left, but it disappeared before more than one other participant saw it.
Around this time we came across Chris, our local guide, who had already set up matters at the hammock shelter for us. He indicated it was about an hour further on at the pace we were birding. He went back up the trail toward the shelter and disappeared from view, although it took longer than you would expect because he was wearing the brightest yellow shirt I’ve ever seen.
As we neared the granite eminence of the Voltzberg, we found a few more new birds for the trip: Plain xenops (Xanops minutus) and CHESTNUT-RUMPED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus pardalotus). We also saw a Gray mourner, but I did not have good enough looks to count it as a life bird. To make up for that, the next bird was a splendid ROSE-BREASTED CHAT (Granatellus pelzelni) which was well-viewed in its finery; I had not managed to spot this species in Brazil in 2008 and I had been itching for a rematch.
Very nearly the last bird for the day was a Rufous-rumped foliage-gleaner (Philydor erythrocercum). Apres that, le deluge.
In the rain forest you can hear a big storm coming from a while away, an ominous sussuruss of water rushing against leaves. Bret pointed it out and suggested we step up our pace. Pretty soon the rain started and it meant business. Slickers and umbrellas came out and we weaved up the trail, eventually scrambling up the last dozens of yards to the exposed knob of the Voltzberg itself. With the rain coming down pretty hard there was no point in staying up there so we continued on to the trail. There was a somewhat messy crossing over a developing rivulet but we all managed it pretty well.
After about fifteen minutes Bret realized that we were actually on the trail to the cock-of-the-rock lek, so we retraced our steps - the rivulet had become a stream and was a good deal harder to cross by this time - and returned to the Voltzberg. Unfortunately, the correct trail to the shelter was not well-marked. We cast around a bit for the right trail - the same wet point was crossed, having become a turbulent creek - but eventually Bret decided he would just go back to the Voltzberg and wait for Chris to come back and point out the correct trail to the shelter. As we stood, utterly drenched, with the light failing and our feet shod in soggy boots, we kept our humor up by devising plans to create a shelter from umbrellas and parkas and wait out the night in the rain. I have to say, I have a very dim view of human nature, but everybody pretty much rose to the occasion and maintained good attitudes about the dilemma we were in.
It can readily be understood, nevertheless, how a cheer went up when we saw the bright yellow of Chris’ shirt as he accompanied Bret back to where we waited. We crossed that one problematic spot again, which had become a fairly significant tributary of the Amazon River, mounted the Voltzberg, and set forth on the correct trail, which was only a few yards away from the trail we had initially chosen (but virtually invisible unless you knew exactly where it was).
We entered the hammock shelter and peeled off our wet boots and socks with relief, although no hope that they would be drier in the morning, since the humidity was at one hundred percent. Bret led us through an elaborate explanation of how to situate yourself in a hammock, but I found it was pretty intuitive, not to mention comfortable. Since there was no electricity, after we ate the food waiting there, there was little to do but sit around talking after dark fell. Bret told a wild and intricate story of how he and a friend had an ancient truck break down with an engine fire as they were crossing a mountain chain in some Central American country, and they had to spend two weeks in the hospitality of a local while they painstakingly cleaned and repaired every single individual piece of the engine and reassembled it. I related a tale from my childhood involving a World War II surplus grenade casing, a game my parents and I used to play, and a very dicey situation my father faced at airport security as a consequence.
Eventually it was time to sleep after a very long day. By flashlight I picked my way to my hammock, ignoring the squeaking of the bats which lived in the room, and sighed as I relaxed into the curve of the thing and pulled mosquito netting around me.
At that point the guy right next to me started snoring like a dreaming chainsaw. It was straight out of an eighties camp movie. I couldn’t help it: I giggled helplessly at the world’s ironic sense of play.
“Bret, are those ear plugs still an option?”
March 9
The rain ended before daybreak. At first light we ate a quick breakfast and steeled ourselves for the ritual of resuming soaked socks and drenched boots. Back up to the peak of the Voltzberg, where we soon found a BLACKISH NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus nigrescens) roosting on the bare rock. Small brushy trees on the summit yielded Red-eyed (Chivi) vireo (Vireo olivaceus), Short-crested flycatcher (Myiarchus ferox), and a very cooperative (and for me long-awaited and greatly-appreciated) TROPICAL PARULA (Parula pitiayumi). We also had good looks at a Red-legged honeycreeper and a low Lemon-chested greenlet. Other birds found here were RED-SHOULDERED TANAGER (Tachyphonus phoenicius), a splendid and cooperative GOLDEN-SPANGLED PICULET Picumnus exilis), Green-backed becard (Pachyramphus viridis), Buff-throated saltator (Saltator maximus), and Golden-winged parakeets which allowed us to view them while perched.
We hit the trail to the cock-of-the-rock lek, crossing that one incredibly wet spot again another time once more. Along the way we found Green honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza), the TAWNY-CROWNED GREENLET (Hylphilus ochraceiceps) that had eluded me in Belize and Guatemala the previous year, and a splendid BAND-TAILED ANTSHRIKE (Thanophilus melanothorax) that was furtive but eventually seen by all - another tricky Guianan endemic. The female was also present with its very different brown plumage and black mask and throat. A Lineated woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus) showed in a medium-height tree. Overall it was very quiet; the birds all seemed shocked by the night’s torrential rains.
Presently we reached the Guianan cock-of-the-rock lek, where we found several bright orange males waiting for females to appear so they could begin their courtship rituals. We studied the birds for quite a long time; occasionally they expanded their erectile crests and made the first few sounds signaling the proximity of females, but they never really got going with lekking behavior. It hardly mattered - there can be few birds in the world so showy and odd-looking. The whole experience was at once wonderful and eerie, as we waited scarcely fifteen yards from the lekking site, and the cocks-of-the-rock sat in their various places like so many orange-robed bishops awaiting the start of some cabalistic sacrament.
While we watched the cocks-of-the-rock, the jungle remained busy around us. A Straight-billed hermit came in for good looks, and some Golden-handed tamarins passed us in the trees. Bret was extremely pleased when a troop of Bearded saki monkeys followed, as these are rarely seen.
We started back to the Voltzberg and then on toward the trailhead. A White-necked thrush (Turdus albicollis) called somewhere (I would later see one at Brownsberg), and at one point we had decent looks at a Long-winged antwren (Myrmotherula longipennis). Some birds would not come in to Bret’s tape, so we only heard Band-winged antbird and Amazonian motmot.
When we reached the spot where the day before we had briefly seen Lineated forest-falcon, Bret played a tape and we soon had the bird fly in and perch. I did not have a completely unobstructed view, but I did get a good look at the bird’s belly and head - a great sighting and far more than one can usually hope for with a forest-falcon.
A Buff-throated woodcreeper(Xiphorhynchus guttatus) showed up briefly, and we also heard Spot-winged antshrike. A large woodcreeper proved to be a handsome BLACK-BARRED WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes picumnus).
We reached the trailhead at the appointed time, and were glad to be there, for rain was threatening. The only problem: no boat. Bret had no explanation for this, and I joked, “Bret, we swim now? We swim?” making ridiculous dog-paddle motions with my hands. Our mood turned somewhat more glum when, after twenty minutes or so, the rain caught up to us. Out again came the slickers and the umbrellas, and we settled in to wait, our almost-dry clothes and boots getting drenched all over again.
Finally, at a quarter to six, the boat showed up. Our boatman’s explanation was that he had been told to show up around five and it was “around five.” I considered demonstrating to him that being thrown in the river was “almost the same as being in the boat,” but I was too wet to make the effort. We endured a boat ride back to the dock with water shooting in our face the entire way.
Back at the lodge, nine soldiers of birding staggered, footsore and waterlogged, up to their rooms, cursing La Nina for a bitch.
March 10
We were bound to leave for Paramaribo in the afternoon. In the morning we crossed the river to run a trail on the far side. There we found the first of several well-viewed FULVOUS SHRIKE-TANAGERS (Tachyphonus surinamus) in a flock with a RUFOUS-BELLIED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula guttata) showing its varicolored plumage. Perhaps the best sighting of the morning was a flock of LILAC-TAILED PARROTLETS (Touit batavicus) which actually landed in a treetop above the canopy and lingered long enough for us to get the scope on one and study it briefly - something which, Bret and Dan explained, was nearly unheard-of. Although the views were from below and the back, we were able to see the brightly-colored tail, yellow wing patches, and occasionally the head when the bird bent to gnaw at a fruit.
Bret cautioned us that the next bird he would try to tape in was a champion skulker and we would be lucky to get brief glimpses. I thought he was overselling it and speculated the bird would uncharacteristically perch up in full view. Happily I guessed right - a COLLARED GNATWREN (Microbates collaris) popped up on a log long enough for a good view and then took several other viewable spots as he looked for the virtual bird that was challenging him.
Further along the trail we found a cooperative BLACK-FACED HAWK (Leucopternis melanops). A hidden trogon kept calling, and eventually I found it hidden well up in the foliage - a Green-backed trogon (Trogon viridis) (formerly part of the White-tailed trogon complex). Overhead a King vulture (Sarcoramphus papa) showed, and above the horizon a Swallow-tailed kite (Elanoides forficatus) wheeled effortlessly.
We returned to the lodge, collected our things, and caught the plane back to Paramaribo. Our cook agreed to take our clothes and wash them at her house (for a very reasonable fee) and deliver them back to us in the morning before we left the hotel. I went along with this but decided that I would take the clothes in the bag I had left at the hotel - which were not available to hand over to her - and wash them in the hotel’s laundry room. It was with an enormous sense of relief that I showered, set out my boots and backpack and other soggy non-clothing items to dry, and joined the others for a satisfying dinner in the hotel restaurant.
March 11
We got started early to head for the coast for the morning’s birding. Before we were out of Paramaribo we saw a BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis) very close to the road, giving excellent looks at its mostly rufous body, black choker, and whitish head. A field near the hotel featured a flock of Yellow-hooded blackbirds which we had excellent, unobscured looks at both perched and on the wing. The same field held a Black-capped donacobius (Donacobius atricapilla).
People had been spotting them all along, but random luck (and a lack of effort on my part) led to my seeing Wattled jacana (Jacana jacana) on this day for the first time of the trip. We also found Red-breasted blackbird (Sturnella militaris), Striated heron (Butorides striata), Shiny cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis), and a perched-up PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND-DOVE (Columbina minuta) before we reached our first destination.
At the coast, on a beach in the Weer Na Zorg region, we had various shorebirds including Semipalmated plover (Charadrius semipalmatus), Lesser yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes), Semipalmated sandpiper (Calidris pusilla), Solitary sandpiper (Tringa solitaria), and Least sandpiper (Calidris minutilla). A (Southern) House wren (Troglodytes aedon) and a Tricolored heron (Egretta tricolor) were also around. One of the tour participants picked out a distant flock of SCARLET IBIS (Eudocimus ruber) coasting south over the ocean. Royal tern (Thalasseus maximus) and Ruddy turnstone also showed up.
We walked a short way down a road away from the beach and had great looks at an adult Rufous crab-hawk. A Magnificent frigatebird (Fregata magnificens) and a Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) passed over. Brushy trees near the road brought forth a PLAIN-BELLIED EMERALD (Amazilia leucogaster) that about half the group got on, and a White-lined tanager (Tachyphonus rufus). On the other side of the road was a field with clumps of longer grass, where a pair of YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAILS (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus) perched up beautifully for us and allowed scrutiny through the scope. A Pale-breasted spinetail (Synallaxis albescens) was in the same field. A pigeon in a bare tree proved to be a Ruddy pigeon (Paagioenas subvinacea), and a Green-rumped parrotlet (Forpus passerinus) was found entering and exiting a nest hole in a dying tree by the road. Barred antshrike (Thamnophilus doliatus) called, and then a CRANE HAWK (Geranospiza caerulescens) flew over, low and lanky with white parentheses near each wingtip - a sight I had been hoping for over many years. Finally, we had spectacular looks at a Glittering-throated emerald, and a Laughing falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans) was found at the top of a tree in the middle distance.
Leaving Weer Na Zorg, we returned to the airport, where we received the news that Gracia had not been able to get the clothes dry, so they would have to wait a few more days until we returned from Palumeu. I felt bad for the others but glad of my foresight in having some of my clothes washed at the hotel. Soon we were airborne once more, cruising over an awesome extent of rainclouds before we reached the remote riverside settlement. It was raining pretty well when we arrived. Dutch tourists who were leaving on the plane we came in on advised us that it had rained every day they were there, a matter of some eight days. Shortly after they left the rain stopped, and it looked like we would be blessed with lucky weather after all.
A pair of COLLARED PLOVERS (Charadrius collaris) were on the airstrip itself, affording decent if not particularly close views. We ate lunch and while the others were finishing up I took the opportunity to poke around a bit. A large raptor in a tree just over the dining pavilion proved to be a juvenile Great black-hawk, and while watching it I realized there was a Two-toed sloth hanging in the same tree. We found a SPOT-TAILED ANTWREN (Herpsilouchmus sticturus) up in a tree; Bret “banked” this bird until we could find a singing individual, but by the end of the tour he advised that it was certainly a Spot-tailed - as opposed to a Todd’s - and we should go ahead and record it as such.
We took a boat directly across the river, and an Amazon kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona) flew out for decent views. On the other side of the river we took the “terra firme” trail. We heard Thrush-like antpitta near the start of the trail but the bird would not come in for views. BLACK-THROATED TROGON (Trogon rufus) showed very well, and we taped in a GREAT JACAMAR (Jacamerops aureus) to show off its stout bill, rufous belly and breast, and white throat.
High up in the canopy a Rusty-backed nunlet sang, and we had glimpses of it moving but not diagnostic views; it would not come lower. A very curious Long-tailed hermit (Phaethornis superciliosus) hovered near us. Another large woodcreeper made an appearance, and though Bret hoped it would be the restricted-range Red-billed, it instead turned out to be an AMAZONIAN BARRED WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes certhia). Rain moved in and we returned to the lodge just ahead of it, losing the rest of the afternoon’s birding. When we emerged for dinner it was almost worth it, as one side of the sky sported a partial rainbow and the other held the setting sun with a single shaft piercing the clouds and drawing a golden highway across the roof of the world.
March 12
Early morning found us on the river, where we saw the first of many, many Plumbeous kites (Ictinia plumbea) and a Green ibis (Mesembrinibus cayennensis) that flew away from its perch as we approached. A handsomely marked BLACK-HEADED PARROT (Pinoites melanocephalus) sat up at the top of a tree, its black cap contrasting with the lemon-orange cheeks and orange nape. One of the tour participants shouted out to pull the boat back to the side of an island, where had spotted a female LADDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis climacocerca) roosting on a low root.
The trail to Poti Hill proved reasonably productive. New birds seen were an elusive SLATY-CAPPED SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius leucotis), a nice WHISKERED FLYCATCHER (Myiobius barbatus), Collared trogon (Trogon collaris), screaming Red-throated caracaras near what was usually a good Capuchinbird area, and a heard-only Guianan trogon.
I had missed a bird sighted earlier on the tour, so Bret took care to make sure I got on a female FULVOUS-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus cristatus) when one showed up. I would later have fleeting but satisfying looks at the striking face of a male.
We mounted Poti Hill itself, another of those granite knobs rising out of the jungle. Bret and another participant were ahead of me as we emerged from the trees and scaled the difficult, slippery rock, surrounded by patches of stinging nettles. As Bret turned to address the group I noticed that just beyond him a large hummingbird was perched in a minor bare tree. I called Bret’s attention to it and he announced with surprise that it was a male CRIMSON TOPAZ (Topaza pella), in full regalia of its finery except for the lack of one of the tail streamers. Everyone came up to the area to marvel at this usually canopy-hugging bird as it sat conveniently in one bush-level perch after another, permitting long studies. Simply spectacular.
We had intended to spend some time surveying the treetops from the lofty eminence of Poti Hill, but had barely twenty minutes to look around before Bret ordered a retreat in the face of impending rain. The only new bird seen was a BLACK-TAILED TITYRA (Tityra cayana), although we enjoyed a trio of Scarlet macaws in one tree.
As we headed back along the trail the rain hit, and once again we plodded along a water-drenched trail through a jungle suddenly silent of birds, slickers and umbrellas deployed. By the time we got back to the trailhead the rain had stopped again. On the river we found a pair of CAICA PARROTS (Pyrilia caica) that flew over, affording decent looks, and we spotted a BLACK-BELLIED CUCKOO (Piaya melanogaster) well up in a tree playing hide and seek in the foliage. Another Ladder-tailed nightjar - this time an adult male - appeared, and both Spangled cotinga (Cotinga cayana) and the uniquely slick-plumaged and gorgeous POMPADOUR COTINGA (Xipholena punicea) appeared at the peaks of the riverside trees.
The rain closed in again after we got back to the lodge, and we dodged growing lakes to get back to our cabins.
March 13
I woke early and heard a strange call from the opposite side of the river, which I would later realized was a Spectacled owl. I was the first to breakfast and heard a Pauraque (Nyctidromus albicollis) somewhere near the edge of the compound.
Back on the river, we found a PIED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus tectus) in a branch overhanging the water. A Gray-headed kite (Leptodon cayanensis) appeared. We followed a telltale call to a small island of brush, and while trying to spot its owner deep in the brush, a REDDISH HERMIT (Phaethornis ruber) flew in to inspect us. Eventually we found a tiny window through the shrubbery and moved the boat back and forth until everyone had looks at the ZIGZAG HERON (Zebrilus undulatus) that was giving its low throaty disapproval to our presence. Bret advised us that this bird was a champion skulker and had been the bane of many dedicated birders; he urged me to highlight the sighting in this trip report, and he was perfectly right, because it was a fantastic sighting.
We resumed the trail to Poti Hill and heard Black-faced antshrike and found a WHITE-EYED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus zosterops). Close to the start of the hill itself, we heard the odd metallic strains of a target bird and managed to find and put the scope on a CAPUCHINBIRD (Perissocephalus tricolor) in the canopy, showing its odd profile and bare head.
Bret had decided not to tackle Poti Hill again given our lack of luck with the rain, so we turned back, finding YELLOW-THROATED FLYCATCHER (Conopias parvus), Pygmy antwren (Myrmotherula brachyura), and Guianan red-cotinga (Phoenicicus carnifex), along with a number of other birds we had seen before. We also came across a well-camouflaged (and well-named) Dead-leaf toad, something Bret noted we would never have seen in a normal dry season.
At the trailhead, a GREEN-AND-RUFOUS KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle inda) performed well for us, completing my sweep of the American kingfisher species at last.
We returned to the airstrip, spotting Ornate hawk-eagle (Spizaetus ornatus) and
Black-and-white hawk-eagle (Spizaetus melanoleucus). After lunch (and some rain) we spent some time walking around the airstrip toward a trail for McConnell’s spinetail. Just before we started the trail we found a shorebird on the airstrip itself, which proved to be a surprise Upland sandpiper (Bartramia longicauda). On the trail we spotted Lineated woodcreeper (Lepidocolapges albolineatus), and after much effort and following the bird back and forth along the trail ended up getting decent if obstructed views of the skulking MCCONNELL’S SPINETAILS (Synallaxis macconnelli). A little further down the trail we had poor looks at a Plain-crowned spinetail (Synallaxis guhanensis) that would not stay on a visible perch, and a Black-crowned tityra (Tityra inquisitor) visited a tree by a pond.
After dark most of us went on a night birding trip in the boat. The highlight of the trip was a GREAT POTOO (Nictibius grandis) that we found sitting atop a man-high stump at the edge of the water. We also heard Tawny-bellied screech-owl relatively close, but still too far back in to get a look.
March 14
We started out early on the river once again to get in a morning’s birding on another trail before we had to leave Palumeu. A Caica parrot flew by before we reached the new trailhead.
The trail ran through a manioc plantation which offered different and more open habitat. Here we found Long-tailed tyrant (Colonia colonus), Boat-billed flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua), and GOLDEN-SIDED EUPHONIA (Euphonia cayennensis). We also had great looks at a Caica parrot that perched up in a tree for us. Other birds here were Forest elaenia (Myiopagis gaimardii), and a Golden-bellied euphonia which I had only fleeting and not-good-enough-for-a-life-sighting views of.
When activity on that trail died down, we crossed the river to sample another trail with which Bret was unfamiliar. Here we found YELLOW-BILLED JACAMAR (Galbula albirostris) and heard Dusky parrot flying over the jungle. A SPOTTED ANTPITTA (Hyloperus macularius) came in to the tape after a good deal of hesitation and a few of us had pretty good looks at it. We also found Black-tailed trogon (Trogon melanurus) and had an AMAZONIAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium hardyi) which stayed way the hell up in a tree and moved around in response to the tape; I saw it a couple of times, very briefly, but I think I was just about the only one.
We heard Blue-cheeked parrot while we were in the jungle but unfortunately never got looks at the bird, which is a specialty of the region. Back on the river we found Dusky-chested flycatcher (Myiozetetes luteiventris) but did not have the parrots appear.
After lunch we boarded the plane and flew back to Paramaribo, where a White-headed marsh-tyrant (Arundinicola lecocephala) was hanging around the airport. We also learned that Gracia would be meeting us at Brownsberg with our washed clothes.
For the afternoon we returned to the Marienberg area, where we found Yellow warbler (Dendroica petechia) and a distant flying LONG-WINGED HARRIER (Circus buffoni). Nothing else new turned up around Marienberg, and Yellow oriole in particular seemed a tough miss. As it developed, Suriname could be kind, but that story would wait until morning.
March 15
While we were waiting for the bus in the morning, a Black-crowned night-heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) passed by the hotel. When we got on the road and passed the field where the Savanna hawk had been, Chris suddenly yelled in surprise and called for a stop. A YELLOW ORIOLE (Icterus nigrogularis) was perched on the fence right by the road, and we all had excellent looks at the bird that had eluded us in proper habitat the day before.
We drove out of Paramaribo and for a while on the highway without any new birdss for the trip. On our way to Brownsberg we detoured to a few side roads into high and low savannah and walked minor roads and trails there. These areas yielded GREEN-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT (Polytmus theresiae), Variegated flycatcher (Empidonomus varius), RED-SHOULDERED MACAW (Diopsittaca nobilis), heard-only Red-bellied macaw, and Southern rough-winged swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis). We scoped a boa up in a tree being harassed by nervous birds and one of our party decided to walk over to get a closer picture. While he was separated from the group, a DUSKY PARROT (Pionus fuscus) flew over and allowed decent views of the dark wings and shaded scarlet underparts. It was yet another reminder of the “Alien” lesson: never split up the group.
We had Eastern meadowlark at the airport. At the next side road we walked, Bret taped in a RUFOUS-CROWNED ELAENIA (Elaenia ruficeps) which appeared virtually immediately and was very cooperative. We also found White-fringed antwren (Formicivora grisea), several unusually cooperative CAYENNE JAYS (Cyanocorax cayanus), NORTHERN SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus punctatus), and BLACK MANAKIN (Xenopipo atronitens) which showed up while we were trying to tape in the antshrike.
Our efforts to draw in Red-legged tinamou came as close as possible to eliciting a sighting as possible to get without the bird actually appearing. We entered some open low forest and found a splendid SAFFRON-CRESTED TYRANT-MANAKIN (Neoplema chrysocephalum) and BRONZY JACAMAR (Glbula leucogastra).
Back in the brushy country, we saw Plain-crested elaenia (Elaenia cristata) and repeated our tinamou trick with a Russet-crowned crake, only moreso, since we saw the grass move with the bird without actually spotting it. I had fantastic looks at the species in Brazil so I wasn’t too disappointed, but I felt bad for some of the other folks who had not seen one. On our way back to the bus, it started to rain again. Torrential style. The novelty was getting thin. Bret, who had sprinted it out in an effort to avoid getting doused again, was visibly and audibly frustrated.
We continued on and eventually mounted the muddy, rutted, rather thrilling road up to the Brownsberg. I should pause here and note that the bus was the one and only four-wheel-drive bus I have ever seen, and on the ride up to the Brownsberg, that four-wheel-drive was the most valuable player. At one point we hit a slippery patch on a cant and we drifted alarmingly toward the precipice on the right side of the road. There was serious consideration of moving everyone to the left side of the bus, “Speed” style, but eventually the bus and the excellence of our driver got us over the hump.
After we reached the top and decamped, we took a walk back down the road. Along the way we spotted Sulphury flycatcher (Tyranniopsis sulphurea) and Spotted tanager (Tangara punctata), and had a brief fleeting glimpse of a bird that was almost certainly a Marail guan (not a sufficient sighting enough to add as a life bird).
A flock in a dense canopy tree produced a truly excellent bird, a SLENDER-BILLED XENOPS (Xenops tenuirostris), along with great looks at Fulvous shrike-tanager, PINK-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus minor), Wing-barred piprites (Piprites chloris), and a low BUFF-CHEEKED GREENLET (Hylophilus muscicapinus). We also had poor looks at Yellow-bellied tanager and Ash-winged antwren (Terenura spodioptila).
Back at our cabins, we had a great overlook from the top of the Brownsberg, with treetops just below eye level. One productive tree with canopy flowers featured all three honeycreepers, including our first Purple honeycreeper for the trip, as well as RUFOUS-THROATED SAPPHIRE (Hylocharis sapphirina) and RUBY TOPAZ (Chrysolampis mosquitus). We also heard Marbled wood-quail.
March 16
Brownsberg offers many experiences for the traveling birder, but it has a specialty that cannot be found anywhere else - and in the morning we were treated to the world’s most imperturbable back-door-visiting GRAY-WINGED TRUMPETERS (Psophia crepitans). Right out on the lawn, indeed right up to our cottage, these oddly constructed birds allowed us to come within ten feet before they started to shuffle away. We would see them near the cabin area just about every time we looked.
Back at the overlook, we found Neotropical pygmy squirrels playing in the branches to our left. A GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus) - another bird I’d missed in Belize and Guatemala - showed up in a tree on the cabin grounds.
Out on the trails, we found a White-breasted wood-wren (Henicorhina leucosticta) doing its familiar plink call. Both WHITE-FRONTED MANAKIN (Lepidothrix serena) and WHITE-THROATED MANAKIN (Corapipo gutturalis) appeared - initially females and young, but after several attempts we did find breeding-plumaged males. Other birds found were Black-eared fairy (Heliothryx auritus), Pectoral sparrow (Arremon taciturnus), and a singing TODD’S ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus stictocephalus) at a somewhat unreasonable height. Bret repeatedly played tapes for Wing-banded wren but could not get a response, to his evident aggravation.
A Bay-headed tanager (Tangara gyrola) appeared, and after a couple of attempts we had a THRUSH-LIKE ANTPITTA (Myrmothera campanisona) come in close. I had the bird pass through my field and had a flashing look at it, but I’m not sure anyone else got a look. We heard Blue-black grosbeak while trying to tape in Red-and-black grosbeak, but then the rain came in again.
That night during a break in the rain we hit the trails again just beyond the reach of the cabin lights, where we were able to lure in and spotlight a VERMICULATED (“RORAIMAN”) SCREECH-OWL (Megascops guatemalae). We heard another sound that night but did not identify it.
March 17
We ran the Brownsberg entrance road and trails again. A BLACK-THROATED ANTSHRIKE (Frederickena viridis) came in very cooperatively to the tape, but a Bright-rumped attila was too far off to bring in. A tall tree by the road held several YELLOW-GREEN GROSBEAKS (Caryothraustes canadensis) which we all saw eventually. We then clambered down to perch precariously on a steep slope while Bret lured in a
WING-BANDED ANTBIRD (Myrmornis torquata). The bird stayed at a healthy distance from us, and usually was visible only for the leaves it threw up, but it did show briefly a couple of times. Unfortunately the difficult footing and the intervening foliage made seeing the bird extremely difficult for a couple of participants, and we were on that slope for quite a while. Eventually Bret and Dan and I worked together to help people get back up to the road, swinging around tree trunks like apes when necessary. It was fun.
Generally the day continued the theme of birds subdued by the unusual rain of the last several days, although I don’t remember getting drenched this particular day. New birds for the trip were White hawk (Leucopternis albicollis) and Short-tailed hawk (Buteo brachyurus). We had good looks at a Todd’s antwren, SEPIA-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon amaurocephalus), and male White-fronted manakin.
Back at the cabin I set up to scope the flowering treetop while the others were relaxing pre-dinner inside. Dan came out and joined me and drew my attention to a hummingbird - a female RACKET-TAILED COQUETTE (Discosura longicaudus). We called for the others, but by the time they joined us the bird was gone. I did have a good scope look before it left, noting the line down the middle of the throat and other details.
That morning Dan had explained that after we went to sleep the night before, he had realized the mystery call in the forest was an owl, and he tracked it down. So we saddled up after dark and headed out to see if we could find it again. Sure enough, it started calling pretty quickly, and we were able to spot it after it flew in overhead - a juvenile Spectacled owl (Pulsatrix perspicillata).
On the way back to the cabin I decided our good fortune was an opportune time for a little humorous interlude. Holding my umbrella like a microphone, I delivered the following in a faux-BBC accent:
ME: It’s the seventeenth of March in Central Suriname, where the Wing-banded wren has become Dr. Bret Whitney’s white whale. The wilds of Suriname offer many hazards for the unwary, including venomous snakes, inclement weather, and endless meals of fish and chicken, but the worst of Suriname’s perils is, of course, madness. Dr. Whitney, your detractors have criticized your methods as extreme, notably the dynamiting of the last known settlement of Roraiman pygmies to create new habitat for the wren. How do you respond to your critics?
BRETT: Well, the rumors of that incident have been greatly exaggerated.
ME: I see. So you are sticking to your story that it was all a misunderstanding?
BRETT: Oh, most definitely yes.
ME: Great. With us is Dr. Whitney’s close friend and confidant, Dr. Daniel Lane, O.B.E. Dr. Lane, you have been quoted as saying “Dr. Whitney is a dangerous, sick, sick man.” You’ve also been heard to remark, “Please, Dr. Whitney, let go of my throat, please, please God, let go of my throat.” Do you have any comment?
DAN: Glrgk.
ME: I’m sorry, Dr. Lane, I didn’t quite make that out. Can you repeat?
DAN: Glorgle.
BRETT: Yes, Daniel, please do speak up.
DAN: Klk. Choke.
ME: Fascinating. Well, there you have it. Two madmen at each other’s throats in the jungles of Suriname. For the BBC, I’m Gary Leach.
We made sure to get a full night’s sleep before our last day in Surinmae.
March 18
The day began with a walk around the cabin environs and along some nearby trails, where we had good looks at Gray-fronted dove (Leptotila rufaxilla) and a treetop female TUFTED COQUETTE (Lophornis ornatus). We tried to tape in but ended up only hearing Red-and-black grosbeak which, like many of the other birds of Brownsberg, simply wasn’t hormonal enough to respond to the calls of its imaginary rival. We also had good looks at a Mouse-colored antshrike, and Dan called our attention to the top of a pole, where I finally, after many unsuccessful tries, spied a WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora) - and a breeding male at that.
Our last birding expedition at Brownsberg was on a lower part of the entrance road than we had previously attempted. Here we again heard Bright-rumped attila, tantalizingly close yet out of sight, and found YELLOW-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Tomomyias assimilis), AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota) (one of the five new species split from Blue-crowned motmot), WHITE-CROWNED MANAKIN (Pipra pipra), and COMMON SCALE-BACKED ANTBIRD (Willisornis poecilinotus). We also had poor looks at a Golden-hooded manakin.
We left the Brownsberg and stopped at some habitat down on the highway itself where Bret essayed a tape and immediately elicited a response from a POINT-TAILED PALMCREEPER (Berlepschia rikeri). I found the bird half-hidden in a palm frond, and then it flew right over us to a tree on the other side of the road. Soon we were able to put the scope on it and study its reddish wings and tail and black-and-white-streaked head and body, a fantastic opportunity with a bird that usually brings experienced birders to growls of frustration.
We then returned to the savanna trails, where we had good looks at Red-shouldered macaw and Black-faced tanager (Schistochlamys melanopis), but didn’t have a lot of other luck. Our final stop before the hotel was to survey the airport, where a Long-winged harrier circled near the bus several times and then passed low directly over our heads, a fantastic performance.
Our final meal was a good one at the hotel restaurant, and we took to bed early before rising the next morning for the long trek to the airport, where our plane took off at the ungodly hour of 6:15 a.m. The trip went for me without incident.
That was all some two months ago. It’s taken me a good deal of time to get this trip report together, and as I write these final lines it’s mid-May in Syracuse. We have a Birdathon scheduled for this coming Saturday. The forecast is for rain.