The Plan
To attempt to photograph Hylocitrea Hylocitrea bonensis (also known as Olive-flanked whistler), an endemic to Sulawesi, recently considered to belong to a family of its own that is suggested to be more closely related to Waxwing than pachycephala. So, the plan was to focus this trip entirely on this species, with anything else being treated as a bonus.
Getting There
From Australia the easiest and normally the most inexpensive would be to select airline that transits through Denpasar. On this occasion I travelled via Singapore and their associated airline Silk Air as far as Manado and then via Lion Air for the domestic portion which involved two flights Manado to Makassar and then Makassar to Palu. The entire itinerary was fine tuned to perfection by Nurlin Djuni from Malia Tours (lindjuni@hotmail.com).
Preparation
As to be expected close to the equator the temperatures are hot in the lowlands. However, the climate around Lore Lindu was comfortable with fine conditions each morning and cloud cover producing some rain, mostly early evening. A little warm clothing and rain gear such as an umbrella is recommended. With Lore Lindu some distance from any suitable accommodation a comfortable camping arrangement was set up.
Insect repellent is recommended particularly for chiggers. Mosquito’s proved not to be a problem and for this short trip I did not bother with malaria tablets. Only bottled water should be consumed and it is a good idea to have all cash changed at the airport at the start of the trip.
Photographic Equipment
I managed to lug a heavy 500mm F4 Canon lens and flash around and use it throughout hand held without too much difficulty.
Itinerary
Day 1: (16 August 2011): arrival in Manado transfer to Tomohon for overnight stay at Onong's Palace. Afternoon visit to Mahawu forest.
Day 2: (17 August 2011): Morning visit to Mahawu forest. Afternoon flight to Makassar with a connecting flight to Palu. Continuing by a private vehicle at night to a camp site in Lore Lindu National Park.
Day 3: (18 August 2011): Birding along the roadside near the start of the Anaso track & Lake Tambing and a drive towards Wuasa for lower elevation species.
Day 4: (19 August 2011): Climb to the summit of the Anaso track.
Day 5: (20 August 2011): Arise early morning, Birding along roadside and the lake Tambing, Then a 4 hour drive to campsite at Saluki.
Day 6: (21 August 2011): Saluki forest Maleo nesting grounds then afternoon drive to Palu and an overnight stay at the Sentral Hotel in town and a drive along the coast to Dong Gala beach area to look for Purple-winged Roller.
Day 7: (22 August 2011): Flight back to Manado via Palu once more and an overnight stay at the Novatel close to the airport before returning to Singapore and then Sydney
Bird List (following IOC naming and taxonomy)
Maleo 2 birds briefly seen at the Maleo nesting grounds
Javan Pond Heron 6 birds outside Makassar Airport
Eastern Cattle Egret a few small flocks in open country areas
Purple Heron 1 in open country near Palu & 1 Makassar Airport
Brahminy Kite 1 bird patrolling the coastline at Palu
Sulawesi Serpent Eagle 1 at Lore Lindu camp site and another at Dong Gala
Sulawesi Goshawk 1 circling above the Maleo nesting ground
Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk 1 seen well after responding to playback
Black Eagle 1 seen at lower elevations near Lore Lindu
Barred Rail commonly seen in grasslands around Manado and
Buff-banded Rail 5 seen on the golf course Novatel in Manado
Isaballine Bush Hen heard but not seen in grassland areas throughout
Red Turtle Dove 1 bird in lowland grasslands
Zebra Dove A bird calling Novatel golf course Manado
Slender-billed Cuckoo-Dove Common in forested areas throughout
Stephan’s Emerald Dove 6 or more seen on bike ride to the Maleo site
Red-eared Fruit Dove a few seen & heard on Anaso Track & nr campsite
Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove Nurlin saw one at the Maleo nesting ground
Superb Fruit Dove 1 seen at Mt Mahawu and more heard
White-bellied Imperial Pigeon heard at Lore Lindu at the start of the Anaso Track
Citrine Lorikeet a few seen close to Lake Tambing
Golden-mantled Racket-tail regularly seen flying over nr start of Anaso Track
Bay Coucal 1 heard at the Maleo nesting ground
Lesser Coucal 2 seen at the Suluku Campsite
Yellow-billed Malkoha 4 at the Saluku Campsite
Black-billed Koel 2 responding to call back at Lake Tambing
Little Bronze Cuckoo 1 at lower elevations Lore Lindu
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo 1 at Onong’s Palace and 1 at Maleo nesting ground
Sulawesi Masked Owl 1 heard at Lore Lindu campsite
Sulawesi Scops Owl 1 responded well to play back near Lake Tambing
Satanic Nightjar 1 Mt Ambang at dusk & 4 half way up Anaso track
Savanna Nightjar 6 near roosting site near Olovoju
Grey-rumped Tree Swift regularly seen roadside areas near Manado
Purple Needletail brief views of 4 near Suluku
Glossy Swiftlet common in rainforest areas throughout
Uniform Swiftlet regularly seen in open areas
Moluccan Swiftlet regularly seen in open areas
Asian Palm Swift a few seen Makassar Airport and near Olovoju
House Swift a few at Makassar Airport
Purple-winged Roller 1 photographed at Dong Gala beach
Collared Kingfisher regularly seen particularly forest edge areas
Sacred Kingfisher 1 at the Dong Gala beach
Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher 1 photographed at the Maleo nesting grounds
Purple-bearded Bee-eater 2 close to Lake Tambing and 1 on Anaso track
Blue-tailed Bee-eater common in open country particularly nr Saluku
Sulawesi Hornbill 1 responded to play back at Maleo nesting grounds
Knobbed Hornbill 1 flying over at the Maleo nesting grounds
Sulawesi Dwarf Woodpecker 2 close to lake Tambing
Ashy Woodpecker 1 heard near start of Anaso track
Red-bellied Pitta 1 heard at the Maleo nesting grounds
Dark-eared Myza 2 at lower elevations Lore Lindu
White-eared Myza a few at higher altitudes on Anaso track
Sulawesi Myzomela 1 at Mt Mahawu and 1 at Lake Tambing
Golden-bellied Gerygone 1 Makassar Airport & open areas nr Manado
White-breasted Woodswallow regularly seen in open country areas throughout
Ivory-backed Woodswallow 1 near Lake Timbang, I high on Anaso track
Cerulean Cuckooshrike 2 photographed at lower elevations Lore Lindu
Pygmy Cuckooshrike 1 at lower elevations Lore Lindu
Sulawesi Cuckooshrike 1 at lower elevations Lore Lindu
White-shouldered Triller 4 outside Makassar Airport
Maroon-backed Whistler 1 heard high on Anaso track
Sulpher-ventred Whistler common at Lore Lindu
Black-naped Oriole 4 at Suluku campsite
Hair-crested Drongo 2 at lower elevations Lore Lindu
Sulawesi Drongo 1 near campsite at Lore Lindu
Rusty-bellied Fantail Common at Lore Lindu & Mt Mahawu
Black-naped Monarch 1 in scrub near Maleo nesting ground
Slender-billed Crow a few in open country near Mt Mahawu & Manado
Piping Crow a few pairs nesting near Lake Tambing
Hylocitrea (Olive-flanked Whistler) 4 sightings at various elevations along Anaso track
Citrine Canary-flycatcher 2 at Mt Mahawu and Lore Lindu
Sooty-headed Bulbul common in all open country areas
Malia 2 sightings from roadside nr start of Anaso track
Barn Swallow 2 in open country near Saluku
Pacific Swallow common in open country areas throughout
Mountain Tailorbird regularly seen at Lore Lindu and Mt Mahawu
Sulawesi Leaf Warbler regularly seen at Lore Lindu and Mt Mahawu
Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler 1 at Mt Mahawu and 1 at start of Anaso track
Zitting Cisticola 1 grassland near Suluku
Sulawesi Babbler a few heard at Mt Mahawu 1 seen at Lore Lindu
Streak-headed Ibon a few near the start of the Anaso track
Mountain White-eye regularly seen at Mt Mahawu and Lore Lindu
Lemon-bellied White-eye a few pairs roosting outside Makassar Airport
Black-fronted White-eye common at Mt Mahawu and Lore Lindu
Short-tailed Starling a pair presumed to be this species at Dong Gala
Sulawesi Myna a pair photographed near Lake Tambing
Fiery-browed Starling commonly seen along Anaso track
Grosbeak Starling a small flock at Lake Tambing
Geomalia 1 photographed high on the Anaso track
Sulawesi Thrush 1 seen briefly at Mt Mahawu
Pied Bush Chat 1 in open country near en route to Suluku
Snowy-browed Flycatcher a few near the start of the Anaso track
Rufous-throated Flycatcher 1 photographed at Mt Mahawu
Little Pied Flycatcher a few near the campsite at Lore Lindu
Turquoise Flycatcher a few at Mt Mahawu and roadside areas Lore Lindu
Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher 1 at lower elevation roadside Lore Lindu
Blue-fronted Flycatcher regularly seen at start of Anaso track
Yellow-sided Flowerpecker a few birds near accommodation Onong’s Palace
Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker a few near Lore Lindu campsite
Grey-sided Flowerpecker common near campsite at Saluku
Brown-throated Sunbird a few near Saluku in open country
Black Sunbird 1 near accommodation at Onong’s Palace
Olive-backed Sunbird regularly seen in open country throughout
Eurasian Tree Sparrow common in township areas
Black-faced Munia a flock seen in grassland near Suluku
Scaly-breasted Munia small flocks in open country areas
Chestnut Munia commonly seen in grasslands at forest edge
Pale-headed Munia small flock at campsite Suluku