Having had two very successful trips to Bulgaria with Neophron Tours ("Birds & Bears" May 2010 and "Butterflies" June 2011) we decided to go with them again to the Black Sea coast for autumn migration. We were not disappointed. The first four days were in the south around Bourgas then we moved north to Varna and beyond. Raptor migration was visible each day but two of the days around Bourgas were particularly spectacular; on 22nd for example c.3,000 Lesser Spotted Eagles, 500 Black Storks, 5,000 White Pelicans, 200 Common Buzzards and smaller numbers of other species. Each day was different with 24th giving us 40+ Red-footed Falcons, 10+ "late" Honey Buzzards and a few Levant Sparrowhawks, etc. Common Sparrowhawks, Red-backed Shrikes and Red-breasted Flycatchers were "everywhere" from 25th onwards. Some days birds were very high and difficult to see, on others they were much lower. Ideally the trip should have been done a week or so earlier but considering how late we booked it, we were pleased with species and numbers we saw. Throughout our stay the wind was from the east and there were reports of strong migration 100kms west of the coast.
All the arrangements went well, the two hotels were clean, spacious and comfortable and food everywhere was excellent. Our Neophron guide, Simeon Gigov, is very professional, a good birder and also good company. Everything was relaxed and flexible and we can thoroughly recommend Neophron Tours which is the commercial arm of the Bulgarian Society for the Protection of Birds / BirdLife Bulgaria. They organise a wide range of wildlife tours throughout Bulgaria to suit many interests (birds, mammals, plants, butterflies, dragonflies, photography).
Contact: www.neophron.com www.birdwatchingbulgaria.net neophrontours@gmail.com inquiries@neophron.com
ITINERARY
SOUTHERN COAST (Bourgas)
21 Sept: Wizz Air flight from Luton to Bourgas, arriving 19.45 hrs. Transfer to Sarafovo north of Bourgas, a few minutes drive from airport. Hotel Mirana Sarafovo.
22 Sept: Early walk hotel area. Day spent at several points around Bourgas lakes. Evening overlooking Black Sea at Sarafovo.
23 Sept: Headed for the mouth of Fakiyska river, Bourgas, stopping at a few roadside wetlands on route. Then to Poda BSPB Reserve and two areas of Atanasovsko Lake and salt pans. Evening overlooking Black Sea at Sarafovo.
24 Sept: Morning checked a couple of areas around Bourgas Lakes again, then to marshes by Atanasovsko Lake. Afternoon Atanasovsko migration watch-point. Evening overlooking Black Sea at Sarafovo.
25 Sept: Morning to Pomorie Lake and watching for migrants from a dry hilltop (Kamenar village). Early-mid afternoon at Atanasovsko migration watch-point. Late afternoon around heavily-wooded Bourgas parkland for passerines.
NORTHERN COAST (Varna)
26 Sept: Drove to coastal Dobrudzha via the Dyulinski Pass (Eastern Balkan range); birding in several woodland areas on route, including Kamchia riverine forest, oak woods near Panitsovo village and an open, high point to watch for migrating raptors.
27 Sept: Morning to Durankulak Lake and nearby dry grassland. Afternoon Shabla Lakes and nearby steppe habitat.
28 Sept: Morning checked a large area of steppe habitat then on to Cape Kaliakra. Afternoon Cape Shabla and Shabla Lakes.
29 Sept: Morning Durankulak Lake and coast, dunes and woodland. Afternoon coast at Yailata Archeological Reserve, nearby steppe habitat and Bolata Gorge near Cape Kaliakra.
30 Sept: Return to Bourgas via Eastern Balkans with stops at Baltata Nature Reserve (North of Varna), deciduous forests at Kamchia and along Dyulinski Pass. Late afternoon around Atanasovsko marsh, Bourgas.
BIRDS - 169 species plus 1 HEARD-ONLY
MUTE SWAN Cygnus olor Common (e.g. 40 around Bourgas on 22nd)
SHELDUCK Tadorna tadorna Common
WIGEON Anas penelope 3 (pair over Durankulak Lake , 1 m at Shabla Lake)
TEAL Anas crecca Widespread, up to 50 noted per day
MALLARD Anas platyrhynchos Small numbers throughout
PINTAIL Anas acuta A few around Bourgas Lakes (3 on 22nd, 5 on 23rd)
GARGANEY Anas querquedula Small numbers around Bourgas (up to 8 per day); 1 fem at Shabla
SHOVELER Anas clypeata Widespread in small numbers
POCHARD Aythya ferina Small numbers in south
FERRUGINOUS DUCK Aythya nyroca Numerous around Bourgas
LITTLE GREBE Tachybaptus ruficollis Common, often in groups up to 10
GREAT CRESTED GREBE Podiceps cristatus Common, seen most areas including sea, up to 9 together
BLACK-NECKED GREBE Podiceps nigricollis Common. 1 at Bourgas; 5 Pomorie Lak, 4 on sea at Cape Shabla; 34 on sea near Shabla Lake; 10+ on sea by Durankulak Lake and 10 at Yailata
PYGMY CORMORANT Microcarba pygmeus Common around lakes and marshes
GREATER CORMORANT Phalacrocorax carbo Very common, often in hundreds
SHAG Phalacrocorax aristotelis desmarestii c.30 at Cape Kaliakra and a few at Cape Shabla
LITTLE BITTERN Ixobrychus minulus 1 in reedy river bed beside petrol station in Bourgas
NIGHT HERON Nycticorax nycticorax 1 over roadside thicket, Bourgas Lake
SQUACCO HERON Ardeola ralloides 1 over Bourgas Lake
LITTLE EGRET Egretta garzetta Common in small numbers
GREAT EGRET Ardea alba Common and more numerous than Little E.garzetta
GREY HERON Ardea cinerea Common
PURPLE HERON Ardea purpurea Singles/2s seen on five days (Bourgas, Dyulinski Pass, Durankulak)
DALMATION PELICAN Pelicanus crispus Common around Bourgas (100+ on 22nd, up to 30 on other days)
WHITE PELICAN Pelicanus onocratulus Large numbers in south (c.5,000 on 22nd) including many large migrating flocks. Only 3 seen in north (1 at Cape Kaliakra on 28th, 2 at Durankulak Lake on 29th).
BLACK STORK Ciconia nigra Impressive flocks over Bourgas: 500 on 22nd; 70+50 on 24th; 3 on 26th; 17 on 30th.
WHITE STORK Ciconia ciconia 4 south on 22nd and 2 on 24th
SPOONBILL Platalea leucoridia Flocks seen on five days: 42 south over Poda on 23rd; 50+ at Atanasovsko on 24th; 34 south over Durankulak on 27th and 74 on 29th (with single bird on marsh); 11 feeding at Atanasovsko Lake on 30th.
HONEY BUZZARD Pernis apivorus A few late migrants seen: 3 on 22nd; 10+ on 24th; 1 on 26th
BLACK KITE Milvus migrans 1 only, flying high over Atanasovsko on 24th
WHITE-TAILED EAGLE Haliaeatus albicilla 1 perched bird near Bourgas on 22nd
SHORT-TOED EAGLE Circaetus gallicus Small number of migrants seen on five days: 10 on 22nd; 1 on 23rd; 5 on 24th; 2 on 25th; 1 on 26th
MARSH HARRIER Circus aeruginosus Common in all suitable areas and also occasional high-flying migrants, including one dark morph male (all dark, appearing black, except pale grey tail and pale underwing band).
MONTAGU'S HARRIER Circus pygargus 2 ringtails migrating on 24th
GOSHAWK Accipiter gentilis Singles on three days (Bourgas, Durankulak and near Kavarna); 2 together near Yailata
SPARROWHAWK Accipiter nisus Very common. Many high-flying migrants on most days, as well as frequent sightings around marshes and woodlands.
LEVANT SPARROWHAWK Accipiter brevipes A few late migrants seen: 1 over Bourgas on 22nd and 6+ at Atanasovsko on 24th.
COMMON BUZZARD Buteo buteo Migrants seen most days, often in good numbers (200 on 22nd). 5 identified as Steppe Buzzard B.b.vulpinus
LONG-LEGGED BUZZARD Buteo rufinus 2 on 23rd; 3 on 24th and 1 on 30th (?local birds, not actively migrating)
LESSER SPOTTED EAGLE Aquila pomarina Impressive numbers! c.3,000 through the day on 22nd; 60+ on 23rd; 300+ on 24th. Fewer on other days and only 1 on 30th.
SPOTTED EAGLE Aquila clanga 1 seen well, amongst many Lesser A.pomarina on 24th. At least two more seen by Guide only.
BOOTED EAGLE Aquila pennata 2 (pale phase) on 22nd; 3 (1 pale, 2 dark) on 24th
OSPREY Pandion haliaetus 2-4 around Bourgas 22nd, 23rd and 24th; 1 on coast by Durankulak on 29th
KESTREL Falco tinnunculus Common throughout
RED-FOOTED FALCON Falso verspertinus Migrants seen on six days in parties of 1-10. Min. 5 on 22nd; 1m on 23rd; 40+ on 24th; 10+ on 25th; 1m on 26th; 2 on 27th.
HOBBY Falco subbuteo Seen on six days 4+ on 22nd; 4 on 24th; 1 on 25th; 4 on 27th; 3 on 29th; 1 on 30th
PEREGRINE Falco peregrinus Singles on 22nd and 24th
WATER RAIL Rallus aquaticus min.2 at mouth of Fakiyska river, Bourgas on 23rd and often heard elsewhere.
LITTLE CRAKE Porzana parva 3 together at Fakiyska rivermouth on 24th
MOORHEN Gallinula chloropus Common around Bourgas and Durankulak Lakes
COOT Fulica atra Abundant around Bourgas - thousands. Far less further north
COMMON CRANE Grus grus 1 over Shabla on 27th (the first of the autumn...)
OYSTERCATCHER Haematopus ostalegus 3 on Pomorie Lake 25th
BLACK WINGED STILT Himantopus himantopus 10 around Bourgas on 22nd; 2 on 23rd
AVOCET Recurvirostris avosetta 2 at Bourgas on 23rd and 100+ on 24th, 10+ on 25th; singles at Shabla on 27th and 28th
COLLARED PRATINCOLE Glareola pratincola Min. 10 around Borgas on 22nd
LITTLE RINGED PLOVER Charadrius dubius Common with 20+ seen at most sites
RINGED PLOVER Charadrius hiaticula Singles on three days, 23rd and 25th around Bourgas, and 27th at Shabla Lake
KENTISH PLOVER Charadrius alexandrinus 2s/3s at most sites
GOLDEN PLOVER Pluvialis apricaria 2 at Bourgas roadside watchpoint on 22nd and 23rd; 1 on steppe habitat on 28th
GREY PLOVER Pluvialis squatarola Small numbers (2-6) on five days
LAPWING Vanellus vanellus 8-10 around Bourgas lakes on each visit
KNOT Calidris canutus Single bird on shore at Poda on 23rd
SANDERLING Calidris alba Small groups (6-15) on 23rd, 25th, 27th and 28th
LITTLE STINT Calidris minuta Common in most areas, usually 8-15 but c.100 at Pomorie on 25th
CURLEW SANDPIPER Calidris ferruginea Common most areas, usuall 2-6 but 40+ at Pomorie on 25th
DUNLIN Calidris alpina Common
BROAD-BILLED SANDPIPER Limicola falcinellus 1 at Shabla Lake on two days
BUFF-BREASTED SANDPIPER Tryngites subruficollis The bird found at Bourgas by a Neophron tour group on 21st Sept was only the second documented record for Bulgaria; we saw it on 22nd and 23rd and it had apparently moved on after that date
RUFF Philomachus pugnax Common
COMMON SNIPE Gallinago gallinago Common in good numbers. 40 feeding openly in a small area of Atanasovsko marsh on 30th
BLACK-TAILED GODWIT Limosa limosa 2 on 22nd and 10 on 23rd Bourgas Lakes
WHIMBREL Numenius phaeops 2 on 23rd at Bourgas
CURLEW Numenius arquata 2 on 23rd and 2 on 24th at Bourgas
COMMON SANDPIPER Actitis hypoleucos 1 at Chengene Skele, Bourgas on 22nd
GREEN SANDPIPER Tringa ochropus 4 on 22nd, 1 on 23rd, 5 on 24th around Burgas
SPOTTED REDSHANK Tringa erythropus Common around Bourgas with 15 together at Atanasovsko on 30th
GREENSHANK Tringa nebularis Common around Bourgas; 1 at Durankulak Lake on 30th
MARSH SANDPIPER Tringa stagnatilis 5 on 23rd, 2 on 24th, 1 on 30th, Bourgas
WOOD SANDPIPER Tringa glareola Common around Bourgas; 2 at Durankulak Lake on 27th
REDSHANK Tringa totanus Small numbers around Bourgas
TURNSTONE Arenaria interpres 1 on shore at Poda on 23rd; 1 at Pomorie on 25th
RED-NECKED PHALAROPE Phalaropus lobatus Singles at Pomorie on 25th and Shabla Lake on 27th
SLENDER-BILLED GULL Chroicocephalus genei Occasional sightings of 2s-3s around Bourgas; 2 along coast near Shabla 27th
BLACK-HEADED GULL Chroicocephalus ridibundus Common and numerous throughout
LITTLE GULL Hydrocoloeus minutus Small flocks (2-15) frequent around Bourgas; 1 at Cape Kaliakra on 28th
MEDITERRANEAN GULL Larus melanocephalus Numerous around Bourgas ("hundreds" on 24th)
COMMON GULL Larus canus 1 at Shabla on 27th; 1 at Durankulak on 29th
LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL Larus fuscus A sick bird at Atanasovsko Lake on 23rd, taken into care by BSPB and died 25th
YELLOW-LEGGED GULL Larus michahellis Very common throughout
LITTLE TERN Sternula albifrons 1 at Durankulak Lake on 29th
GULL-BILLED TERN Gelochelidon nilotica Singles on 22nd and 24th, Bourgas; 1 on 29th at Durankulak Lake
CASPIAN TERN Hydroprogne caspia 2 at mouth of Fakiyska river (Bourgas) on 23rd
WHISKERED TERN Chlidonias hybrida 20 at Bourgas on 22nd, 5+ on 23rd; singles on 27th and 28th Shabla/Durankulak Lake
BLACK TERN Chlidonias niger 30 at Bourgas on 22nd, 8+ on 23rd
SANDWICH TERN Sterna sandvicensis 20 on 22nd and 120+ on 25th, Bourgas
COMMON TERN Sterna hirundo 2-3 around Bourgas on 22nd and 23rd; 5 at Pomorie on 25th
STOCK DOVE Columba oenas 1 at Baltata woodlands on 30th
WOODPIGEON Columba palumbus 1 at Bourgas on 23rd; 2 at Baltata woodlands on 30th
COLLARED DOVE Streptopelia decaocto Common throughout
TURTLE DOVE Streptopelia turtur 4 singles on 27th
LITTLE OWL Athena noctua 1 on rooftop by Mirana Hotel, Sarafovo
COMMON SWIFT Apus apus Small numbers (1-4) around Bourgas; 18+ at Kavarna on 29th
ALPINE SWIFT Apus melba 3 around Kavarna on 26th-28th, 20+ there on 29th
KINGFISHER Alcedo atthis Frequent around Borgas (up to 6 sightings per day); singles around Durankulak Lake on 27th and 29th
EUROPEAN BEE-EATER Merops apiaster 30 on 24th, 20 on 25th Atanasovsko watchpoint; 23+ on 27th, 9 on 28th at Shabla
GREEN WOODPECKER Picus viridis A few around Bourgas, with 1 seen and 2 others heard; 1 at seen at Baltata on 30th
GREY-HEADED WOODPECKER Picus canus HEARD ONLY in Eastern Balkan range on 26th and 30th but not seen
SYRIAN WOOPECKER Dendrocopos syriacus Fairly common and widespread.
GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER Dendrocopos major Less frequent than Syrian D.syriacus, seen most natural forested areas
MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER Dendrocopos medius At least 4 seen in forests on 26th; 4 at Baltata on 30th
LESSER SPOTTED WOODPECKER Dendrocopos minor 1 seen, another heard, on route through Eastern Balkan range on 26th
CALANDRA LARK Melanocorypha calandra Just 1 seen in steppe area on 28th
SHORT-TOED LARK Calandrella brachydactyla 2 at Bourgas on 22nd; 1 by road between Durankulak and Shabla on 27th
CRESTED LARK Galerida cristata Common and widespread
WOODLARK Lullula arborea 7 in woodland clearing along Eastern Balkan range on 26th
SKYLARK Alauda arvensis Just 1 in dry field near Kamenar village on 25th
SAND MARTIN Riparia riparia Small numbers throughout
BARN SWALLOW Hirundo rustica Common throughout
HOUSE MARTIN Delichon urbicum Small numbers around Bourgas each day; very few further north
RED-RUMPED SWALLOW Cecropis daurica 2-4 around Kavarna each day and 9 there on 29th
TREE PIPIT Anthus trivialis 1-3 each day around Bourgas
YELLOW WAGTAIL Motacilla flava Larke flocks (hundreds) around Bourgas
GREY WAGTAIL Motacilla cinerea 1 Bourgas; 1 Durankulak Lake
WHITE WAGTAIL Motacilla alba Common throughout with some large flocks up to 150
WREN Troglodytes troglodytes 1 near Durankulak
ROBIN Erithacus rubecula 1 on 23rd, Bourgas; singles on three days in north
BLACK REDSTART Phoenicurus ochruros 1 by Mirana Hotel on 22nd; 2 around Hotel Venera each day
COMMON REDSTART Phoenicurus phoenicurus Small numbers in north: 3+ on 27th; 2 on 28th; 1 on 29th
WHINCHAT Saxicola rubetra 5 in dry fields near Kamenar village on 25th; 2 at Shabla on 27th; 1 near Durankulak on 28th
STONECHAT Saxicola rubicola 3 at Shabla on 27th; singles near Durankulak on 28th and 29th
NORTHERN WHEATEAR Oenanthe oenanthe 2 on 25th, Bourgas; 2 at Shabla on 28th; 1 in steppe area on 29th
BLACKBIRD Turdus merula Widespread but in small numbers (1-10 per day)
SONG THRUSH Turdus philomelos 2 Bourgas Park 25th; 2 in Eastern Balkans woodland 26th + 30th; 1 near Durankulak 29th
MISTLE THRUSH Turdus viscivorus 1 only, in woodland of Eastern Balkans on 30th
SEDGE WARBLER Acrocephalus schoenobaenus 1 at Durankulak Lake on 27th; 1 on 29th
REED WARBLER Acrocephalus scirpaceus 1 at Poda on 24th; 2 at Durankulak Lake and 1 at Baltata Gorge on 29th
GREAT REED WARBLER Acrocephalus arundinaceus 1 on 24th, Bourgas
BLACKCAP Sylvia atricapilla Small numbers throughout (up to 10 per day)
LESSER WHITETHROAT Sylvia curruca 11 around Bourgas on 23rd; occasional singles most other days
COMMON WHITETHROAT Sylvia communis 1 on 23rd, Bourgas
CHIFFCHAFF Phylloscopus collybita Singles seen on three days only but often heard
WILLOW WARBLER Phylloscopus trochilus More frequently encountered than Chiffchaff P.collybita with up to 5 seen most days
SPOTTED FLYCATCHER Muscicapa striata Common 22nd-27th then none seen thereafter
RED-BREASTED FLYCATCHER Ficedula parva None seen 22nd-24th, 5 at Bourgas park 25th; then good numbers each day
BEARDED TIT Panurus biarmicus 4 on 22nd, Bourgas
LONG-TAILED TIT Aegithalos caudatus 10 on 22nd, 6+ on 26th and 10 on 30th, Bourgas
BLUE TIT Cyanistes caeruleus Common
GREAT TIT Parus major Common
MARSH TIT Poecile palustris 3 at Kamchia forest reserve 26th
NUTHATCH Sitta europaea 2 in Eastern Balkan range and 1 at Kamchia forest reserve on 26th; 1 at Baltata park on 30th
SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER Certhia brachydactyla 1 in Eastern Balkans and 1 at Kamchia forest on 26th; 2 Baltata park 30th
PENDULINE TIT Remiz pendulinus 2 on 23rd and 1 on 24th, Bourgas
RED-BACKED SHRIKE Lanius collurio Common everywhere
JAY Garrulous glandarius Common
MAGPIE Pica pica Common
JACKDAW Corvus monedula Common
ROOK Corvus frugilegus Just 1 seen, Bourgas
HOODED CROW Corvus cornix Common
RAVEN Corvus corax 2 in Eastern Balkan range on 30th
STARLING Sturnus vulgaris Common throughout with some very large flocks in north
HOUSE SPARROW Passer domesticus Common
SPANISH SPARROW Passer hispaniolensis 4 on 25th, Bourgas; 12+ at Durankulak Lake on 27th
TREE SPARROW Passer montanus Frequent sightings of small flocks
CHAFFINCH Fringilla coelebs Widespread in small numbers
GREENFINCH Carduelis chloris Singles on 23rd, 24th and 26th, Bourgas
GOLDFINCH Carduelsi carduelis Common
HAWFINCH Coccothraustes coccothraustes 5 on 23rd, Bourgas; 3+ on 26th and 2 on 30th, Eastern Balkan range
CIRL BUNTING Emberiza cirlus 1 on 26th, Eastern Balkan range
CORN BUNTING Emberiza calandra Common, often in large flocks (10-100)
INSECTS
BUTTERFLIES Tentative, unconfirmed identification only
SMALL WHITE Artegeia rapae
EASTERN BATH WHITE Pontia edusa
BERGER'S (or EASTERN PALE) CLOUDED YELLOW Colias alfacariensis OR Colias erate
CLOUDED YELLOW Colias crocea
SMALL COPPER Lycaena phlaeas
LESSER FIERY COPPER Lycaena thersamon
SOOTY COPPER Lycaena tityrus
BROWN ARGUS Aricia agestis
COMMON BLUE Polyommatus icarus
RED ADMIRAL Vanessa atalanta
PAINTED LADY Vanessa cardui
CARDINAL Argynnis pandora
GREAT BANDED GRAYLING Kanetisa circe
MEADOW BROWN Maniola jurtina
SMALL HEATH Coenonympha pamphilus
WALL BROWN Lasiommata megera
MALLOW SKIPPER Carcharodus alceae
DRAGONFLIES
MIGRANT HAWKER Aeshna mixta
RED-VEINED DARTER Sympetrum fonscolombei
SOUTHERN DARTER Sympetrum meridionale
OTHER
RHINOCEROS BEETLE
REPTILES and AMPHIBIANS Tentative, unconfirmed identification only
GREEN LIZARD Lacerta viridis 1 adult male seen
SAND LIZARD Lacerta agilis Two seen
COMMON WALL LIZARD Podarcis muralis Frequent sightings of probably this sp.
BALKAN WALL LIZARD Podarcis taurica Frequent sightings of probably this sp.
SLOW WORM Anguis fragilis Dead on road
MARSH FROG Rana ridibunda Common
KOTSCHY'S GECKO Cyrtodactylus kotschyi Juvenile, dead in swimming pool, Sarafovo
MAMMALS
BOTTLE-NOSED DOLPHIN Tursiops truncatus c.5 at Cape Kaliakra, 3-4 at Cape Shabla