Tour Leader(s): Forrest Rowland and Sergio Ocampo Fundegar
Top 10 Tour Highlights (as voted by participants):
1. Purplish-mantled Tanager
2. Santa Marta Screech-Owl
3. Beautiful Woodpecker
4. Bearded Helmetcrest
5. Yellow-headed Manakin
6. Santa Marta Parakeet
7. Black-fronted Wood-Quail
8. Bogota Rail
9. Noble Snipe
10. Pale-bellied(Mattoral) Tapaculo
Tour Intro
Colombia has only recently returned to the radar of birders worldwide. For over 3 decades Colombia suffered corruption, internal strife, and the death and displacement of hundreds of thousands of Colombian nationals. Shipping, commerce, and economic growth were shadows of thought in those days, much less the development and growth of tourism, conservation, or expansion of the regional and national parks. Things have changed.
In the past 10 years, nearly all of the municipalities that had previously been controlled by the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC) or the Ejercito de Liberacion Nacional (ELN) were recovered by the National Armed Forces. Commerce between provinces and shipping lanes resumed full function after President Alvaro Uribe’s campaign against the rebel forces continued success during his multiple terms as President. Finally, an expanding economy selling anthracite, flowers, and oil to nations around the world was allowed to flourish. Hydroelectric dams were built and power was sold to neighboring Ecuador and Venezuela. Colombian consumerist businesses including restaurants and clothing stores were franchised abroad. As a progressive nation, and aspiring role model in South America, Colombia began to turn green.
Colombia banned smoking in public areas, including buses, trains, and taxis. Conservation organizations such as ProAves began receiving national press and praise. The system of Parques Naturales Nacionales (PNNs) was given additional funding to improve the quality of land management, jobs offered to recent graduates in wildlife and natural professions, and the parks began expansion. The Ministerio de Turismo was revamped and allotted major funding to spread the word: Colombia is back, economically, and naturally. A variety of bird tour operators began excursions to Colombia in 2007. The tourism board took notice, and in 2009 threw a gala for, and inviting in, birding agencies looking to operate in Colombia. Two years later, Colombia’s ProExport organization commissioned the first-ever birding site guide for the country, which they premiered in September, 2011, at the world’s largest birding event – BirdFair UK.
Colombia is definitely on the radar now. With three mountain ranges, two coasts, and the most complex topography of any country on the continent, Colombia ties Peru for the longest list of bird species of any country on the planet. With 74 endemic species (not including the recently re-discovered Bogota Sunanagel) and burgeoning infrastructure that allows new access to most, it is not only on the radar, but has become a must-visit for any international birder. And so, 8 Rockjumper participants, 2 leaders, and one driver, found themselves beginning a journey that would net an unprecedented 794 species of birds in just 23 days, including an astounding 59 endemics. From the Eastern Andes to the Pacific Slope, north to the dry Guajira peninsula, this tour encompassed what Colombian Birds and Birding is all about – being diverse, while being unique.
Tour Summary
The tour participants, and leaders, congregated in Colombia’s cosmopolitan capitol city, Santa Fe de Bogota, on October 30th. To be more accurate, 6/8ths of the group arrived the evening of the 29th, to allow for flight delays, cancellations, or any other untoward event that may prevent on-time arrival. The official start date was the 31st, but the 6 early arrivals had all arranged for some pre-tour event. For some of us, it was a visit to Mundo Nuevo and the Brown-breasted Parakeet preserve near PNN Chingaza. For others, it was a cultural tour of Bogota, including a visit to Monteserrate Monastery overlooking the expanse of the city, and a walk through the city’s Botanical Gardens – one of the best places in the country for spotting various and sundry vagrant neotropical migrants. At the end of the evening, we all met over dinner….the first of 22.
As a group, we spent the following 3 days visiting an assortment of habitats and elevations accessible from Bogota. One of the most amazing things about being based in Bogota is how much diversity you can access with relatively little travel time, despite the enormity of the metropolitan area. Habitats we visited included the elfin forests and paramo of PNN Chingaza, subtropical forests around Laguna Pedropalo and Laguna Tabacal, lowland dry forest of Mana Dulce in the Magdalena Valley, and the temperate wetland habitats of Huasca and Parque La Florida.
We had an amazing run of birds at these sites, and really set the pace for this epic tour. After just 3 days of birding, we had already logged over 200 species. We were off to a great start! Some of the more exciting bird encounters included amazing looks at several Bogota Rails, scope views of Noble Snipe, Brown-breasted Parakeets perched overhead, singing Apolinar’s Wrens in full view, both Barred and Moustached Puffbirds, photogenic White-chinned Thistletail and Pale-bellied Tapaculos, a family group of Silvery-throated Spinetails, Fasciated and the endemic Bar-crested Antshrike, White-bellied and Jet Antbirds within 3 meters, Turquoise Dacnis, and a migrating flock of over 2000 Swainson’s Hawks! This doesn’t include the myriad of amazing colors provided by the Hummingbirds (Bronze-tailed Thornbill, Indigo-capped Hummingbird, Shining-green Hummingbird, Black Inca, Blue-throated Starfrontlet, Coppery-bellied Puffleg, and Gorgeted Woodstar amongst them) and Mountain-Tanagers (Scarlet-bellied, Black-chested, Buff-breasted) of the area. We did have a surprise or two the first days, as well. Black-headed Hemispingus and Colombian (Speckle-breasted) Wren had never been recorded on a Rockjumper Tour to Colombia before. And the shocker was one Pale-tipped Inezia at Mana Dulce. This was only the second record for the Magdalena Valley!
We began our overland journey West with two days in the wet lowland areas of the lower Magdalena Valley. The small Bellavista preserve on the ridge above the hamlet of La Victoria was our first try for Antioquia Bristle-Tyrant, which didn’t show until the following day. But sometimes misses turn out to be hits! We bagged great views of Beautiful Woodpecker, very responsive White-mantled Barbets, Sooty Ant-Tanagers, and a nearby soaring Black-and-White Hawk-Eagle. We had some other great species, but a real standout at this location was White-bibbed Manakin. Rare, little known, and even harder to predict, this was the first time this species had been recorded on a Rockjumper Tour. We followed up our visit at La Victoria with a stop for Northern Screamers. Not only did we find these fascinating, extremely local birds, but we had great looks at a variety of other wetland birds, plus Blue-and-Yellow Macaws at a nest!
We spent the following day at Canon Rio Claro, and a private holding harboring Oilbirds in its cave system. Some of the highlights of the day included Cinnamon Woodpecker, Checker-throated Antwren, the two most obliging Dull-mantled (Magdalena) Antbirds I have ever encountered (they came within, literally, 2 meters in the open), a few species of Trogon, White-whiskered Puffbird, Gray-cheeked Nunlet, the gorgeous Blue Cotinga, displaying Brownish Twistwings (bizarre), and 2 Antioquia Bristle-Tyrants at last! The scenery along the canyon is beautiful, and the experience of seeing and hearing Oilbirds all around you, unforgettable.
The next destination on the itinerary was the famed Arrierito Antioqueno (Chestnut-capped Piha) preserve owned and operated by ProAves. The nearest town to the site is Anori, which is usually what we refer to the preserve as. Of course, one can’t leave the site without the namesake bird. We didn’t have to. After some searching, we had an amazing Chestnut-capped Piha show, as one bird posed for photos, showing the chestnut cap. Ridiculous! We birded the road that borders the main property, as well as the compliment of trails within the preserve. There are several amazing species to be seen here, and we saw nearly all, with a few bonus birds thrown in. Best sightings included Colombian Chachalaca, Golden-headed Quetzal, crushing views of an Ochre-breasted Antpitta (that didn’t require playback!), White-crowned and Stiles’s Tapaculos, Plumbeous-crowned and Rufous-browed Tyrannulets, confiding White-throated Spadebill, several Golden-winged Manakin, the unique subspecies of White-crowned Manakin there, a pair of Sooty-headed Wrens duetting in full view, an extremely vocal flock of 14 Red-bellied Grackles viewed through the scope, and our first (but not last) looks at brightly patterned Multicolored Tanagers and neon Indigo Flowerpiercers. Many mixed flocks were encountered, with the full array of Furnariids, tanagers, flycatchers, and the like. It was a wonderful day!
Nothing in Antioquia is what one would consider “close” to the next thing. But our drive to Jardin allowed some time en route to seek out Black-chested Jays, Black-bellied and Bay Wrens, Dusky Antbird, and other low-elevation goodies en route. We saw nearly everything we looked for, and were surprised with a few additions to the list, including Green Manakin. Before settling into our wonderful accommodations in the quaint holiday town of El Jardin, we took a 10 minute stroll from the edge of town to visit with the Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks there. This amazing lek is active morning and afternoon. While we were afforded close views of *only* 8-10 males on this afternoon visit, one morning in 2009 I counted 26 attending males! These mind-blowing, iconic birds must be sought out whenever in the Andes.
The main reason for a visit to Jardin (aside from enjoying the Colombian Pasofino horses parading through town nightly, and a good dose of culture) is the drive up to ProAves’ Las Ventanas preserve. This is one of the few accesses to the feeding and roosting grounds of several flocks of Yellow-eared Parrot. We made the drive beneath the moon and stars of a clear pre-dawn, sky. By the time the sun was supposedly up, we could scarcely see 40 feet through the fog. Frustrated, we listened to the sounds of flocks numbering in the dozens as they cruised through the sightless mire overhead, when I noticed a lonesome squawk nearby. One lone rebel among the crowd (a pariah, perhaps, of the Parrot community) flew low and leisurely right over our heads. Though there was little “oooh”ing or “ahhh”ing, we were all happy that the species would be not be recorded as an H, that night, and were glad to be having our coffee and fruit breakfast in that muddy cow field, nonetheless. The rest of the morning was similar in success, or lack thereof, until our fortunes changed nearing midday. Most of the road down was silent, save for two nice mixed flocks and some oblivious bathing tanagers. Just before making it all the way back down to the vehicles and our last-ditch effort for Munchique Wood-Wren, we got quick looks at the Wood-Wren and the flock, the monster flock of the mountain, in quick succession. This flock is the prototypical mixed-species flock of legend. 30+ species were toiling in the underbrush, running up and down trunks, chirping and sparring in the branches, as we stood, rooted, silent, and very happy. The 15 minutes spent watching this flock made the whole morning worthwhile. We took as much time as we could with the birds, before we left the preserve. Sergio and I shared downcast thoughts at the days ahead as we made our way towards Manizales; towards what promised to be a logistical headache, if not a nightmare.
We had heard of flooding in Cali. Rumors trickled down of unrelenting rains and torrents in Medellin. There were washouts in Pereira, and Manizales had been without potable, running water, for a week after the main hydrological infrastructure coming out of the Andes had failed and was undone by the sheer volume of water forcing its way down the mountains. It was amusing to ponder these plights up until now, as we had lost but a few hours due to rain, or only gotten a little wet during a drizzle. Most of our nights were rained out, but the days were beautiful and all this commotion we had witnessed little-to-nothing of! However, on our way south to Rio Blanco, into the fray, I was thinking, “Okay, we’re gonna get it now. The law of averages is still the law, and now we’re going to get soaked for the next 3 days.” We disembarked our vehicle that night in the rain. I had a fitful sleep, fearing the worst, getting little rest.
I awoke the next morning to light through the cracks and spaces of my windows. There would be sun at dawn. And the birdsong had already began….
Rio Blanco was a clear highlight of the trip. Not only did it not pour rain, but it was only slightly overcast at times, with the occasional drizzle. Perfect! Aside from the confiding, the self-amusing Spectacled Bear, and the delicious local hospitality, the flocks here are perhaps the best to be experienced anywhere. So are the Parrots. There are few places accessible that allow viewing of several species of high-elevation, parrots. This is one of them. Our stay here was my best visit, to date.
Highlights of the days there, including our foray up over 4000m elevation at Parque Natural Nacional Los Nevados were:
Andean Condor low overhead, lengthy views of foraging Golden-plumed Parakeets, watching nomadic Rufous-fronted Parakeets at leisure, a family group of adults and begging juvenile Rusty-faced Parrots, Bearded Helmetcrest, Purple-backed Thornbill, and the rarely seen Black-thighed Puffleg, Bar-bellied, Powerful, and Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers, several furnariid species included the first White-browed Spinetail seen on this itinerary, 6 species of Antpittas SEEN, 5 species of Tapaculos SEEN, every Chat-Tyrant in the Field Guide SEEN, Dusky Piha, Black-collared Jay, Golden-crowned Tanager, a noisy flock of White-capped Tanagers overhead. We even saw Masked Saltator! Not just one Masked Saltator, either. We had three Masked Saltators in one tree. And, it barely rained at all.
From Rio Blanco, we had a short transfer day to Otun-Quimbaya, near the city of Pereira. We decided to investigate a recent claim that the endemic Yellow-headed Brush-Finch had been discovered nearby. This would be the first and only known site for this species on the West slope of the Central Andes, as this species was presumed an entirely Magdalena Valley bird. We had a family group of 5 Yellow-headed Brush-Finches at the site! Also of note, was one adult female-plumaged Magnolia Warbler (1st record for C Andes) and a stunning male Cerulean Warbler. We also took the time to stop at a wetland area near Manizales, where we were rewarded with great looks at a most confiding White-throated Crake, among others.
Our arrival to Otun-Quimbaya, and our ability to bird the site, was somewhat hindered by a huge flooding that had taken out the main road. However, vehicles were arranged on the far side of the washout and we saw little delay at all. Vehicles were hired for the following morning, as well, to drive us up past the lodge into the forest, and we would walk back. Once again, we found our target species. Torrent Duck, several Cauca Guans, Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant, Variegated Bristle-Tyrant, Ashy-headed Tyrannulet, Rusty-winged Barbtail, numerous Red-ruffed Fruitcrows, and even a covey of four elusive Chestnut Wood-Quail!
Cerro Montezuma, and the Parque Natural Nacional Tatama, was my most anticipated destination as a leader. It was a new site for me, though similar in habitat and avifauna to other sites I have known in Colombia. But this was farther, richer, and perhaps more untouched by the hand of man. I was pondering what fascinating species and experiences it might hold. I was prepared for just about anything to turn up….but was surprised and awed, nonetheless. Allowing access from 2200m elevation on the Pacific Chocó slope, down to 1200m, this birding “site” (bad word, for it encompasses a very long stretch of road) is the best access I’ve known to this avifauna, anywhere. We spent 3 wonderful nights, and 2 marvelous days, enjoying amazing species, massive mixed flocks, and the delightful food and hospitality of Leopoldina’s household.
Our first day’s birding at Cerro Montezuma was meant to head straight to the top. A mudslide some 2 miles short of the top stopped our forward momentum in the jeeps, but we continued on foot. We birded the entire day, taking lunch in the field, from 2200m elevation down to 1500m. The array of species encountered was staggering. Some of the special birds we encountered this day were Tawny-bellied Hermit, Empress Brilliant, Velvet-purple Coronet, Brown Inca, Violet-tailed Sylph, Yellow-vented Woodpecker, Star-chested Treerunners, Pacific Tuftedcheek, a pair of rare Bicoloured Antvireos, Yellow-breasted Antwren, the recently described Alto Pisones Tapaculo, one silent Flavescent Flycatcher, family groups of Handsome Flycatchers, and great views of the seldom seen Fulvous-breasted Flatbill. A pair of Munchique Wood-Wrens coming right out in the open for film and photos, in response to playback, vied for best birds of the day. In the end, the best bird encounters involved the frugivores of the forest. Fruit must have been plentiful in the trees at that time, because the number of Fruiteaters, Solitaires, Pihas, and Tanagers was mind-boggling bordering inexplicable. We had 5 Black Solitaires in one tree! Our day totals of some of the more spectacular frugivorous birds were 16 Green-and-Black Fruiteaters, 6 Orange-breasted Fruiteaters, 8 Olivaceous Pihas, 26…yes 26 Black Solitaires, 14 Yellow-collared Chlorophonia, 15 Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia, 20 Chocó Brush-Finches, 9 endemic Black-and-Gold Tanagers, 20 endemic Gold-ringed Tanagers (a remarkable total), 14 Black-chinned Mountain-Tanagers, 6 Purplish-mantled Tanagers, 6 Glistening-green Tanagers, every other Tangara sp. you’d expect or imagine in multiples, and 6 Crested Ant-Tanagers gregariously cavorting in our second-to-last mixed flock of the day. One of the best day’s birding in memory.
Clear highlight of the second day was Chocó Vireo seen in full song, a lifer for our local guide, Sergio! I heard one singing, which I enticed with some playback. Then, a second chimed in, even closer, and the two began counter-singing. Truly amazing to hear and see this highly-localized, difficult bird, let alone have nearly eye-level views and two singing males at once. Of course, the Scarlet-and-White Tanager was great, too! Obviously, we focused our efforts on some lower elevation forest areas along the road, to round out the experience. Starting near 1800m elevation, then working our way down as far as 1200m elevation, produced some overlap. It was a different day, however, with bright sunshine in the morning creating difficult birding at the higher elevations. We managed looks at Nariño Tapaculo in our efforts, but weren’t getting much response with anything else. As we were packing up to head lower, I noticed some swift gathering quite close. We enjoyed nice views of Spot-fronted, Chestnut-collared, White-collared, and White-tipped Swifts before someone shouted “Parakeets!” Sure enough, a small flock of 8 Barred Parakeets flew above the trees on the slope below us. As clouds gathered overhead and began to rise, shadows returned to the forest and the birds became active, once more. Above 1500m, we encountered a great flock allowing wonderful views of Rufous-rumped Antwren, 3 species of Foliage-Gleaner (not including the Ruddy Foliage-Gleaner I called in nearby), Barred Becard, Golden-winged Manakins, and one extremely confident Olive Finch that came right out to forage on the road! It was pretty much flock upon flock after that, calling in few species out of the bush. We great looks at Barred Hawk, White-capped Parrot, White-tailed Hillstar, Red-headed Barbet, Uniform Treehunters, surprise Rufous-winged Antwrens(!!), a wonderful family group of White-headed Wrens, one Chestnut-breasted Wren came out, a surprise Black-headed Brush-Finch (2nd record here?), Yellow-green Bush-Tanagers, Blue-capped, Purplish-mantled, Black-and-Gold, Gold-ringed, Glistening-green (12!), Golden, Silver-throated, Rufous-throated, Bay-headed, Golden-naped, Beryl-spangled, Black-capped, Scarlet-and-White, Hepatic, Summer, and Crested Ant-Tanagers. It was great! We did have one that “got away” though: Long-wattled Umbrellabird. In all the melee of our final mixed flock of the day, a male flew right through the forest near us, and had been perched nearby, though we’d been too busy to notice. Argh!!! You can’t get them all, though, I suppose.
During our two days’ birding at this site, we saw some ridiculous number of species – along the lines of 260-270. It was an incredible place, and right up there with Rio Blanco in terms of our enjoyment. Walking was long, jeep rides were harder…but it was well worth the effort! I can’t wait to go back.
This marked the near-end of the main tour through the Colombian Andes. We finished up with a couple days and nights near Cali, to see some fine wetland species such as Horned Screamer (distant), Comb Duck, and Buff-necked Ibis. We also made a stop en route to pick up the lifer of the tour for me: Yellow-headed Manakins at a lek!!! Somehow good looks at this fine bird had eluded me, until now. To date, we had suffered marginal success with two Cauca-valley specialists: Grayish Piculet and Apical Flycatcher. We remedied that with a quick stop to a fine regional park near Buga, getting great views of both, and a bonus pair of the wide-ranging, but rarely seen Dwarf Cuckoo! I can personally confirm that breeding of this species is, at very least, being attempted at the site. It was a good, easy, couple days’ birding to wrap up a phenomenal 17 days in the Andes.
The group and I were very sad to say Goodbye to Sergio Ocampo(local guide) and Diana Yepes(driver). It had been a great dynamic and a lot of fun! Luckily, every other member of the tour had agreed that the Santa Marta extension was well worth the extra 5-6 days, and we all caught flights to Santa Marta, on the Caribbean Coast, November 16th. The tour was far from over…
The Santa Marta region of Colombia is one of the most recognized areas for endemism in the Western Hemisphere. This volcanic range stands well apart from any Andean chain, and is not so young in origin. The Santa Marta range is old, and its highest peak juts some 5700m above sea level, a mere 29.6 miles away. Such proximity to the coast, combined with such a severe altitudinal gradient produces unique forms of life anywhere it occurs on the planet. Add to that several million years of additional, isolated, evolutionary time more than the main Andean mountain chains have incurred, and you end up with the highest level of endemism anywhere on the planet that is not, in fact, an island. In a very real sense, the Santa Marta range is indeed an island of evolution that has fascinated biologists for decades. Despite regular visitation over those decades, still new forms of life are being discovered in this Lost World.
Our extension to the Santa Marta range allowed for little time birding the more widespread habitats of coastal mangrove and scrub (though we did set aside a little time on the first day), but focused, rather, on accessing all biomes possible along the only transect through the range : the road to El Dorado, continuing up into the National Park, and the literal end-of-the-road.
Our first afternoon was when we allotted some time for birding the mangrove at Isla Salamanca. We quickly obtained great views of Bicolored Conebill (odd form, disjunct from nominate which inhabitants river island of the Orinoco and Amazon Basins), Black-collared Hawk, Panama Flycatcher, and a pair from the oddly disjunct population of Golden-green Woodpeckers in the PNN Salamanca. Our main goal here was the highly-localized Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird. The search was becoming dubious, when, after several minutes vigilantly watching the only blooming plant around, up popped the Hummingbird! Great views were had by all. We then quickly piled into the vehicle and drove straight to a known roosting-site of Chestnut-winged Chachalaca. We almost missed them, but made it just in time. We viewed several birds in the near scrub for 3-4 minutes, before they climbed down out of view, and disappeared for the night.
We spent this night at Minca in the foothills of the mountains. The following morning we were up before down to make the most of our time at the site. It was worth it. Before packing it in to head further up the mountain, we had seen roosting Black-and-White Owl, Sooty-capped Hermit, the recently rediscovered Santa Marta Sabrewing (!!!), Coppery Emerald, Keel-billed Toucan, Crimson-crested Woodpecker, newly-split Santa Marta Foliage-Gleaner, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Olivaceous Flatbill, Golden-fronted Greenlet, Rufous-breasted Wrens (pair of crazy birds flying all around us), beautiful songster Rufous-and-White Wrens, and several lovely Golden-winged Sparrows. On the way to our accommodations at the cozy Lorenzo Research Station, some 2200m elevation, we made a few stops to look for some special birds of the middle-elevations. These including Yellow-billed(Groove-billed) Toucanet, endemic Blossomcrowns (3 males displaying!), Long-tailed Antbird, Santa Marta Tapaculo, Venezuelan Tyrannulet, and numerous good birds coming in to a fruiting tree like Black-hooded Thrush, Yellow-legged Thrush, and the scarce Black-headed Tanager. Before turning in for the evening, we tried pushing our luck by attempting to lure the new species of Screech-Owl, being called Santa Marta Screech-Owl Megascops [gilesi] sp.nov. for the time being, in for views. It was an “H” only, for the day.
Our second day in the Santa Marta Mountains was our only chance for high-elevation species. We travelled up from the Research station, to the end of the road (if you want to call it that), at just over 2700m, in the lower reaches of the temperate forest that dominates most of the ridges of the range. The upper 5 kilometers of road allows the only access to this habitat, and these birds, in the world. We made it to the ridge top by 0630hrs, intending to make the most of it. We did. We saw every single target species on the mountain that morning. With persistence, we even had great views of Santa Marta Rufous Antpitta (Grallaria [rufula]spatiator), Brown-rumped Tapaculo, and Santa Marta Warbler. If one of the target species is missed in a visit to this site, it is often one of these three. If not, it is definitely the enigmatic Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant that appears to silently, lackadaisically, hold territories in various seemingly random places on the mountain at this elevation that goes undetected and unseen. The point is, on nearly every visit, one of these four species is missed. Not for us! The full list of Santa Marta endemics that can be seen at this site included 7 Santa Marta Parakeets in full sun, a nearby pair of Santa Marta Toucanets, many Rusty-headed Spinetails, several Streak-capped Spinetails, several of the Santa Marta subspecies of Montane Woodcreeper, two responsive Santa Marta Antpittas, 2 Brown-rumped Tapaculos (one of which nearly walked across Alasdair and Nigel), scope views of the striking Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant, numerous gregarious Yellow-crowned Whitestarts, a pair of Santa Marta Warblers seen well, and, of course, a number of striking Santa Marta (Black-cheeked) Mountain-Tanagers.
Overwhelmed by our success, we headed down to El Dorado Lodge, after collecting our effects at the research station. Often, two nights are spent at the lodge, rather than one night at the Research Station and the other at the lodge, despite the latter being lower down the mountain and, ultimately, farther from the main birding site for the high-elevation endemics. The reason behind spending more time at the lodge, is basically because it’s gorgeous, the views are spectacular, the food is great, and the hummingbirds, Toucanets, Fruiteaters, Chlorophonias, and Guans that frequent the grounds are incredible. These, not to mention the legendary compost heap, are all fine reasons to spend time there. Therefore, every single tourist that comes up the mountain does. Space is very limited, and we were only able to squeeze in for one night. But it was well worth it. That same afternoon, after having pulled off the unimaginable “clean sweep” on top of the mountain, we were further treated to White-lored Warblers in the bend just before the lodge, Santa Marta Woodstars and White-tailed Starfrontlet at the feeders, Golden-breasted Fruiteaters in the tree next to the dining hall, Colombian Brush-Finches and Santa Marta Brush-Finches coming in to the compost, and a small group of 3 Band-tailed Guans wandering in to roost over the lodgings! Fantastic!!! Once again, however, the Santa Marta Screech-Owl proved elusive. The reason this time was the rain, which would recommence and strengthen every time we heard a response. Maddening! But, then again, you can’t get them all, right?
Wrong. Perseverance had been strong in the character of the group thus far, so I wasn’t surprised when I had several members agree to get up well before dawn to search out the Screech-Owl. And after I had located a delightfully cooperative Santa Marta Screech-Owls within 10 minutes of beginning my search, and not 100m from the lodge, I was less surprised when the rest of the group came hustling out of their rooms, well before the appointed breakfast hour, to join the fun! We all had incredible views of this beautiful owl, at less than 7 meters distance, eye-level. Hurray!
This, our final morning’s birding in the mountains, was dedicated to the Black-fronted Wood-Quail. By this time, we had all but given up our searches and bouts of silence listening for White-tipped Quetzal (still missing….somehow), and we intent on seeing this Wood-Quail. We were packed up, breakfast safely tucked away in our bellies, and me contemplating urging the group towards the vehicles, when a group of these wonderful birds began singing just across the road. We all hustled over, I played a bit of tape, and up they came, right to the edge of the forest! Alas, two member of the group missed seeing them after continued efforts. Rather than giving up, we decided 5 minutes at the compost heap could be worth it. It was, of course, as two Wood-Quail walked right up onto the heap and began pecked, scratching, and having a generally good time of it. Awesome.
One final stop to try to call out Scaled Antpitta failed, on the way down the mountain, so we had to settle for a cooperative pair of Gray-throated Leaftossers coming right out in the open, a troop of 7 Venezuelan Red Howler Monkeys putting on a show, and, at last, one female White-tipped Quetzal, spotted sitting right over our jeeps at a random stop. Sometimes, you just can’t beat a good run of luck.
We passed back by Minca on the way towards the arid Guajira peninsula for lunch, a gift-searching request, and a roadstop for a nice pair of Black-backed Antshrikes. Most of the day was spent in transit, afterwards, in making for Riohacha for the night’s stay, and the tour’s Last Supper at a fine local seafood establishment. We would’ve been remiss had we not attempted Rufous-vented Chachalacas at a known roost site. They did NOT appear! We had accrued our second “miss” of the extension (Scaled Piculet the first) and 4th “miss” of the tour as a whole (counting Tanager Finch…which was bizarrely difficult everywhere, and Beautiful Jay, which was only seen by a couple participants). As a couple members, including the guide (me) went to find a shady spot after out lengthy drive, someone calmly asked the group as a whole, “Hey, is this some kind of funny motmot or something?” No. It was a Gray-capped Cuckoo!!!! A Colombia bird for me! I had only 6 or 7 previous encounters with the species in Ecuador, and none elsewhere. A great find, fully compensating for the *lost* Chachalaca. We went to a lovely dinner with thoughts of our final morning, and the lovely days past.
Most tours end in a relative fizzle. Definitely not our style. The final morning of the tour was one of the best. Birding in the arid habitat of the Guajira is always a bizarre experience, after having spent a month perpetually wet to some degree or another. Birding is, for the most part, over by 9am on a sunny day in the Guajira. We started early, and, true to form, saw everything we were looking for! While many of these birds do sneak across the border, it takes an intrepid birder indeed to brave the Venezuelan wastelands from Caracas to Maracaibo, across the vast lake, onto the narrow spit of habitat there to see these species. In my mind, they are endemics, given the likelihood of anyone making that trek (though it has been done!). To proceed with the list of “endemics” seen that morning at two separate stops: Bare-eyed Pigeon, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Buffy Hummingbird, the stunning Chestnut Piculet and White-whiskered Spinetail, Slender-billed Inezia, Venezuelan Flycatcher, extremely rare Tocuyo Sparrow, Glaucous Tanager, and my favorite, the “Rey de la Guajira” as the locals call it – Vermilion Cardinal. Loads of other goodies make the list of great birds encountered that day. Ruby-Topaz Humming and Brown-breasted Parakeet are up there. Crane Hawk was great to see. Russet-throated Puffbirds and Buff-breasted Wrens were numerous in the area. Black-faced Grassquit and Trinidad Euphonia are seen regularly, and we got looks at each. Several species of Orioles are seen, and we saw our share. We even caught up with a pair of Rufous-vented Chachalacas, erasing the species from our missed list. A tour couldn’t end on a better note.
Upon arriving to Santa Marta, for our flights back to Bogota, I think the adrenaline finally wore off. We were beginning the first leg of our return trips home, after 22 days of serious time in the field. It was a fabulous tour! 794 species. It was crazy how many species we encountered. It was beyond reckoning, I think, and we were all ready for some time at home to reflect, remember, and relax. Some of us said our good-byes over Coconut Limonadas or the Bogota baggage claim. A few of us got together for dinner in Bogota. A smaller assemblage enjoyed another day in the capitol city, to take in the culture, and sights. I returned home the following day still shaking my head, wondering how we saw so many birds. I’m shaking my head as I write this…
My personal thanks go to all who participated in this epic tour. A fine, diverse, bunch of birders you were, who helped each other as much as you helped yourselves. It was my great pleasure to get to know you all, and I hope we meet again in the future!
TINAMOUS
Little Tinamou - Heard
Red-legged Tinamou - Two seen running across the road above Minca
CHACHALACAS, CURRASSOWS & GUANS
Chestnut-winged Chachalaca, E – several seen at roost site west of Santa Marta
Rufous-vented Chachalaca – two seen at our last stop on the Guajira Peninsula
Colombian Chachalaca (E, Vu) – seen on various days including at Anori, and near Buga
Band-tailed Guan – 3 seen coming to roost at El Dorado, Santa Marta
Cauca Guan (E, En) – numerous at Otun-Quimbaya
Sickle-winged Guan – few at Otun Quimbaya and one at Las Ventanas/Jardin
NEW WORLD QUAILS
Crested Bobwhite – Heard only
Black-fronted Wood Quail (NE, Vu) – two coveys seen, plus two individuals at compost, El Dorado, Santa Marta
Chestnut Wood Quail (E) – a covey of 6 (4 seen) at Otun-Quimbaya
SCREAMERS
Horned Screamer – distant individual seen at Laguna Sonsa
Northern Screamer (NE) – several seen on the main highway between Honda and Puerto Berrio
DUCKS & GEESE
White-faced Whistling Duck – several seen on the main highway between Honda and Puerto Berrio
Fulvous Whistling Duck – many seen in the Cauca Valley
Black-bellied Whistling Duck – many seen in the Cauca Valley
Torrent Duck – one gorgeous male seen on a rock, roadside, near Otun-Quimbaya
Comb Duck – normally rare in Colombia, a whopping 7 seen in the Cauca Valley near Buga
Blue-winged Teal - many
Cinnamon Teal – a few seen mixed in with the preceding species at Laguna Sonsa
Andean Teal – seen at Huasca and Parque Florida
Ruddy Duck – seen at Huasca, Parque Florida, and Laguna Sonsa
GREBES
Least Grebe – seen in several locations
Pied-billed Grebe – seen in several locations
FLAMINGOS
American Flamingo – a group of five, in flight, over Los Flamencos, Guajira
IBISES & SPOONBILLS
Bare-faced Ibis – seen in several location
American White Ibis – a few seen at Los Flamencos, Guajira
Buff-necked Ibis – a few seen in the Laguna Sonsa environs
Glossy Ibis – a few seen at Laguna Sonsa
Roseate Spoonbill – a few seen in various locations
BITTERNS & HERONS
Fasciated Tiger-Heron – one cooperative adult hunting from a rock in the Rio Claro
Boat-billed Heron – one seen at Laguna Sonsa
Yellow-crowned Night Heron – seen at Los Flamencos
Black-crowned Night Heron – seen at various locations
Green Heron – one at PNN Isla Salamanca
Striated Heron – seen at several locations
Western Cattle Egret - many
Great Blue Heron – one seen on main road near Honda, others seen on the Guajira
Cocoi Heron - many
Great Egret - many
Capped Heron – one seen in a stream near the Oilbird Cave property
Reddish Egret – several seen along the coast
Tricoloured Heron – several seen along the coast
Little Blue Heron – a few seen along the coast
Snowy Egret - many
FRIGATEBIRDS
Magnificent Frigatebird – seen along the coast
PELICANS
Brown Pelican – seen along the coast
CORMORANTS
Neotropic Cormorant - many
ANHINGAS, DARTERS
Anhinga – several seen in the Cauca Valley
NEW WORLD VULTURES
Turkey Vulture - many
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture – several seen on the main road north of Honda, and a few near Santa Marta
Black Vulture - many
King Vulture – a few seen around Santa Marta, and one near Medellin
Andean Condor – one majestically soared low, right over our heads, and PNN Los Nevados
OSPREYS
Western Osprey – seen at various locations
KITES, HAWKS & EAGLES
Swallow-tailed Kite – shockingly, only one was seen on the tour, in the Santa Marta range
Pearl Kite – one seen north of Honda on the main highway, another seen near Riohacha
White-tailed Kite – a few seen in various highland wet habitats
Snail Kite – incredibly numerous in the Cauca Valley and around Sonsa
Double-toothed Kite – seen at Mundo Nuevo, and a pair at Bellavista preserve
Plain-breasted Hawk – two seen in montane habitats
Cooper's Hawk – one seen at Laguna Pedropalo
Crane Hawk – two seen at Los Flamencos
Barred Hawk – a gorgeous pair heard and seen very well at Cerro Montezuma
Savanna Hawk - many
Harris's Hawk – one seen roadside near Santa Marta
Black-collared Hawk – a pair seen at PNN Isla Salamanca
Black-chested Buzzard-eagle – seen at both PNNs Chingaza and Los Nevados
Grey Hawk – one seen near the Oilbird Cave property
Roadside Hawk - many
Broad-winged Hawk - many
White-rumped Hawk – one seen soaring low overhead in the Santa Marta Mountains
Short-tailed Hawk – seen near Manizales, and twice in the Santa Marta range
Swainson's Hawk – a staggering migratory kettle of 2200 near Laguna Tabacal!
White-tailed Hawk – a dark individual seen from our hotel in Jardin
Variable Hawk – one seen roadside near Santa Marta
Black-and-White Hawk-Eagle – one individual soaring up, from below eye-level to above, at Bellavista Preserve
Ornate Hawk-Eagle – Heard
CARACARAS, FALCONS
Northern Crested Caracara - many
Yellow-headed Caracara - many
Laughing Falcon – a few seen in the vicinity of Rio Claro, on the highway north of Honda, and near La Victoria
American Kestrel – seen at several locations
Merlin – two seen at Los Flamencos, going back and forth over the mouth of the estuary and the village
Bat Falcon – a pair seen on the highway near Jardin, and one at 2600m(!) elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains
Peregrine Falcon – seen at Laguna Sonsa, and again near PNN Isla Salamanca
RAILS, CRAKES & COOTS
White-throated Crake – one incredibly responsive individual seen very well at less than 3m distance at a small wetland near Manizales
Bogota Rail (E, En) – no less than 8 individuals seen this trip, with breeding behavior and attempted copulation noted at Huasca and Parque Florida
Sora – two seen at Huasca
Blackish Rail – Heard
Purple Gallinule – several seen at various locations
Common Moorhen – several seen at various locations
Spot-flanked Gallinule (NE) – seen very well at Huasca and Parque Florida
American Coot (hybridization/taxon dispute) – some were certainly this species, other questionable breeding-plumaged individuals were seen at Huasca, prompting a lot of discussion as to the status of Slate-colored Coot in the country, which is presumed to be only in the southern quarter of the country. We remain unsure…
LIMPKIN
Limpkin – several seen in the Cauca Valley and at Laguna Sonsa
OYSTERCATCHERS
American Oystercatcher – one seen at Los Flamencos
STILTS, AVOCETS
Black-necked Stilt – several seen at various locations
PLOVERS
Southern Lapwing – many
Black-bellied Plover – two seen at Flamencos
Semipalmated Plover – very numerous along the coast
Collared Plover – a few seen at Los Flamencos
JACANAS
Wattled Jacana – several seen at various locations
SANDPIPERS, SNIPES
Wilson's Snipe – one seen at Huasca
Noble Snipe – two seen at Huasca including one filling the scopeview!!! Another seen less than 10m away at Parque Florida.
Short-billed Dowitcher – a small group seen in flight at Flamencos
Whimbrel – two seen at Flamencos
Spotted Sandpiper – seen at various locations
Solitary Sandpiper - many
Greater Yellowlegs – a few seen at various places
Willet – many along the coast
Lesser Yellowlegs – seen at a small wetland near Manizales and on the coast
Sanderling – seen near the mouth of the estuary at Los Flamencos
Semipalmated Sandpiper – many seen on the coast
Western Sandpiper – many seen on the coast
Least Sandpiper – numerous on the coast
White-rumped Sandpiper – two seen at Los Flamencos
Baird's Sandpiper – four seen near PNN Isla Salamanca
Pectoral Sandpiper – two seen at a small wetland near Manizales
GULLS & TERNS
Laughing Gull – seen along the coast
Least Tern – seen along the coast
Large-billed Tern – seen at a variety of wetland habitats
Gull-billed Tern – seen along the coast
Caspian Tern – seen along the coast
Common Tern – seen along the coast
Cabot's (Sandwich) Tern – seen along the coast
Royal Tern – seen along the coast
Black Skimmer – seen at Los Flamencos
PIGEONS & DOVES
Common Pigeon – many
Scaled Pigeon – seen near Rio Claro and Minca
Bare-eyed Pigeon – seen on the Guajira
Band-tailed Pigeon - many
Pale-vented Pigeon – many
Plumbeous Pigeon – two seen near Anori
Eared Dove – many
Common Ground Dove – a few seen at various locations
Ruddy Ground Dove – many
Scaled Dove – seen on the Guajira
Blue Ground Dove – a pair seen at Mana Dulce
White-tipped Dove – several seen at various locations
Lined Quail-dove – Leader only seen, but several heard in the Santa Marta Mountains
Ruddy Quail-dove – one seen at Bellavista Preserve
PARROTS
Blue-and-yellow Macaw – pair seen attending a nest along the main highway north of Honda
Chestnut-fronted Macaw – several seen in the Rio Claro area
Yellow-eared Parrot (E, En) – many heard, but just one seen due to fog at Las Ventanas
Blue-crowned Parakeet – Heard
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet – nice flock in the trees around us at Bellavista Preserve, seen again in the Santa Marta range.
Brown-throated Parakeet – numerous on the Guajira peninsula, and seen in the lower Magdalena, on the main highway North of Honda
Golden-plumed Parakeet (En) – Many heard before a flock of 14 perched in view. We watched the group foraging, cavorting, and making a general ruckus for several minutes!
Santa Marta Parakeet (E, En) – A flock of 7 seen at eye-level, at 30 m, in binoculars and scope. Incredible views!!!
Brown-breasted Parakeet (E, En) – a flock of 21 individuals observed, at length, as they foraged in the branches directly overhead. Had some wonderful close views of this hit-and-miss species
Barred Parakeet – always tough to see, we fortunately had a flock of 8, below eye-level, seen fairly well in flight
Rufous-fronted Parakeet (E, Vu) – This rare nomadic species really put on a show for us! We watched a flock of 9 feeding in the grass and in the low shrubbery through the scopes for nearly 10 minutes, before a dairy farmer leading his cow up the road flushed them…
Green-rumped Parrotlet – a few seen very well on the Guajira
Spectacled Parrotlet – several seen at various locations
Orange-chinned Parakeet – seen at various locations
Saffron-headed Parrot – a flock of 6 seen in flight over the Oilbird Cave property near Rio Claro
Rusty-faced Parrot (NE, Vu) – a family group of 6, including begging juveniles, seen very well right next to the main road to Rio Blanco
Blue-headed Parrot – many
Red-billed Parrot – seen in the Santa Marta range
White-capped Parrot – a pair flying over us at Cerro Montezuma
Bronze-winged Parrot – seen at various locations around Manizales
Yellow-crowned Amazon – A few seen near La Victoria
Orange-winged Amazon – only two seen, in flight near Honda
Scaly-naped Amazon – Heard at a few locations, seen only in the Santa Marta range
CUCKOOS
Greater Ani – many
Smooth-billed Ani – many
Groove-billed Ani – at a few locations, but most numerous in dry habitats and Guajira
Striped Cuckoo – Heard
Dwarf Cuckoo – a pair seen, with one individual staying out for photographs, near Buga
Squirrel Cuckoo – several seen at various locations
Yellow-billed Cuckoo – one seen on the Guajira
Gray-capped Cuckoo – a great find! one sedentary individual sitting out 8m away.
OWLS
Tropical Screech Owl – heard in three locations, but due to rain or simple obstinence, non-responsive
Santa Marta Screech Owl (E, Cr) – a gorgeous, obliging, male came in to playback, perching eye-level, for minutes on end. We all had amazing looks at this incredibly rare and range-restricted species
White-throated Screech Owl – heard every night at Rio Blanco, but never responsive
Rufous-banded Owl – heard every night at Rio Blanco, and once in the Santa Marta range, but never responsive
Black-and-White Owl – seen on a day roost in the Santa Marta range
Ferruginous Pygmy Owl – a few heard
OILBIRD
Oilbird – dozens inhabiting the Oilbird Cave near Rio Claro
NIGHTJARS
Common Nighthawk – a few seen at various locations
Pauraque – Heard
Band-winged Nightjar – one seen near Mundo Nuevo, another in the Santa Marta range
SWIFTS
Chestnut-collared Swift – many
White-collared Swift – many
Spot-fronted Swift – a few seen well in Cerro Montezuma
Band-rumped Swift – a fairly large flock seen near Cerro Montezuma
Grey-rumped Swift – many
Short-tailed Swift – a few seen at Rio Claro
White-tipped Swift – a few seen at Cerro Montezuma
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift – seen at Rio Claro
HUMMINGBIRDS
Rufous-breasted Hermit – one seen incubating a nest at Rio Claro
Band-tailed Barbthroat – seen at Cerro Montezuma
Green Hermit – seen in the Magdalena valley
Long-billed Hermit – seen at Rio Claro
Tawny-bellied Hermit – seen at Cerro Montezuma
Pale-bellied Hermit – a few seen at various locations
Sooty-capped Hermit (NE) – seen above Minca
Green-fronted Lancebill – one seen at Anori and another at Cerro Montezuma
Lazuline Sabrewing – briefly seen at Jardin Encantado, but seen well at El Dorado
Santa Marta Sabrewing (E,Cr) – Seen(!!!) above minca
White-necked Jacobin – many
Brown Violetear – seen at El Dorado
Green Violetear – many
Sparkling Violetear – many
Black-throated Mango – many
Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird – seen on the Guajira
Western Emerald – seen at Anori
Red-billed Emerald – a few seen at various locations
Coppery Emerald E – one seen very well above Minca
Short-tailed Emerald – a few seen at various locations near Manizales
Violet-crowned Woodnymph – many
Green-crowned Woodnymph – common at Anori
Violet-bellied Hummingbird – seen at Mana Dulce
Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird (E,Cr) – one beautiful male seen close at PNN Isla Salamanca
Shining Green Hummingbird (NE) – one seen at Mana Dulce
Buffy Hummingbird (NE) – a few seen on the Guajira
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird – many
Andean Emerald – many
Indigo-capped Hummingbird (E) – common at feeders of Jardin Encantado
Blue-chested Hummingbird – two seen at Mana Dulce
Steely-vented Hummingbird – many
Blossomcrown (E,En) – three displaying males seen in the Santa Marta range!
White-vented Plumeleteer – several seen at various places
Speckled Hummingbird – seen in several places
Fawn-breasted Brilliant – several at Rio Blanco
Empress Brilliant - a few of this stunning Choco endemic seen at Cerro Montezuma
Green-crowned Brilliant – numerous at Anori
White-tailed Hillstar – one seen feeding near the river at Cerro Montezuma
Buff-tailed Coronet – common at Rio Blanco
Velvet-purple Coronet – several of this striking hummer at Cerro Montezuma
Shining Sunbeam – seen at PNN Chingaza
Mountain Velvetbreast – a few seen at various locations
Bronzy Inca – seen at the Anori and at Otun-Quimbaya
Brown Inca – a few of this Choco specialty seen at Cerro Montezuma
Black Inca (E, Vu) – we had great views of this unique endemic at Laguna Pedropalo
Collared Inca – seen at various locations
White-tailed Starfrontlet (E) – one female was seen coming to feeders at El Dorado
Blue-throated Starfrontlet (NE) – one pair seen incredibly well, at some flowering fucsia, at Mundo Nuevo
Sword-billed Hummingbird – one seen at Rio Blanco
Great Sapphirewing – seen near PNN Los Nevados
Tourmaline Sunangel (NE) – many
Amethyst-throated Sunangel – one “Langemaure’s” subspecies seen at Mundo Nuevo
Glowing Puffleg – a few seen at Mundo Nuevo, PNN Chingaza, and PNN Los Nevados
Coppery-bellied Puffleg (NE) – a couple seen at Mundo Nuevo
Golden-breasted Puffleg (NE) – great, brief, looks at PNN Los Nevados
Black-thighed Puffleg (E) – one surprised us at PNN Los Nevados, a great bird!
Greenish Puffleg – seen at the Anori, and Cerro Montezuma
Booted Racket-tail – a few seen at various locations
Black-tailed Trainbearer – one seen near Bogota
Green-tailed Trainbearer – one seen at Mundo Nuevo
Purple-backed Thornbill – two seen at Rio Blanco
Bearded Helmetcrest – we had several great encounters with 2 or 3 individuals at PNN Los Nevados, a highlight of the trip!
Tyrian Metaltail – a few at various locations
Viridian Metaltail – a few seen at PNN Los Nevados
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill – Heard
Bronze-tailed Thornbill (NE) – stunning view of this scarce endemic, right on the road, at PNN Chingaza
Long-tailed Sylph – a few seen at Rio Blanco
Violet-tailed Sylph – a few of these gorgeous birds seen at Cerro Montezuma
Purple-crowned Fairy – one seen at Rio Claro
Purple-throated Woodstar – several seen at Anori
White-bellied Woodstar – seen at several locations
Gorgeted Woodstar – a few of this rare hummer seen at Jardin Encantado
Santa Marta Woodstar (E) – coming to the feeders at El Dorado! A regularly-missed endemic
TROGONS
Golden-headed Quetzal – males seen at Anori and Rio Blanco
White-tipped Quetzal – one female seen in the Santa Marta range
White-tailed Trogon – a few seen at Rio Claro
Gartered Trogon – seen at Rio Claro
Collared Trogon – seen at Anori and Otun-Quimbaya
Masked Trogon – seen at a few separate locations
KINGFISHERS
American Pygmy Kingfisher – seen at PNN Isla Salamanca
Green Kingfisher – a few seen at different locations
Amazon Kingfisher – several seen at various locations
Ringed Kingfisher - many
MOTMOTS
Broad-billed Motmot – Heard
Andean Motmot – a few seen near Manizales
JACAMARS
Rufous-tailed Jacamar – a few seen at various locations
PUFFBIRDS
Barred Puffbird – one seen in scope-filling views at Mana Dulce, and again seen very well at the Oilbird Cave property
Russet-throated Puffbird (NE) – a few of these confiding birds seen and photographed on the Guajira
White-whiskered Puffbird – seen at Rio Claro and near Anori
Moustached Puffbird (NE) – great views of this scarce bird at Laguna Pedropalo and at Anori
Lanceolated Monklet – Heard
Grey-cheeked Nunlet – brief views of a very active pair of these difficult birds at the Oilbird Cave property
NEW WORLD BARBETS
White-mantled Barbet (E, Vu) – nice views of this handsome bird at Bellavista Preserve and again at Rio Claro
Red-headed Barbet – several seen at various places
TOUCANS
Santa Marta Toucanet (E) – several seen in the higher elevations of the Santa Marta range
White-throated Toucanet – a few seen at Laguna Pedropalo
Yellow-billed Toucanet (NE) – two seen well and photographed in the middle elevations of the Santa Marta range
Crimson-rumped Toucanet – one seen well near Manizales
Black-billed Mountain Toucan – seen in the distance at Rio Blanco
Collared Aracari – several seen around Rio Claro
Keel-billed Toucan – several of these gorgeous birds seen point blank at Minca
Citron-throated Toucan (NE) – scope views of a pair seen at Rio Claro
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan – Heard (shocking not to see one!)
TOUCAN BARBET
Toucan Barbet – Heard
WOODPECKERS
Olivaceous Piculet – a few seen at Mana Dulce, and heard other locations
Greyish Piculet (E) – one seen briefly en route to Jardin, a pair seen well near Buga
Chestnut Piculet (NE) – we had crushing views of this wonderful bird on the Guajira
Acorn Woodpecker – a few seen at Laguna Pedropalo
Red-crowned Woodpecker - many
Beautiful Woodpecker (E) – one of these colorful and ornate woodpeckers put on a show for us at Bellavista preserve!
Smoky-brown Woodpecker – a few seen at various locations
Yellow-vented Woodpecker – a few seen at the higher elevations of Cerro Montezuma
Bar-bellied Woodpecker – one seen very well, foraging with one of the many mixed flocks at Rio Blanco
Red-rumped Woodpecker – males seen at Mana Dulce and Bellavista Preserve
Golden-green Woodpecker – a responsive pair observed at PNN Isla Salamanca
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker – several seen at Rio Blanco
Golden-olive Woodpecker – a few seen at various locations
Spot-breasted Woodpecker – two of these gorgeous birds seen at eye level near Buga
Cinnamon Woodpecker – two seen near and in the scope at Rio Claro
Lineated Woodpecker – only one seen this tour near Buga
Powerful Woodpecker – a pair seen at Rio Blanco
Crimson-crested Woodpecker – two seen interacting and foraging at Minca
OVENBIRDS
Stout-billed Cinclodes – several seen and photographed at PNN Los Nevados
Pale-legged Hornero – a few seen on the Guajira
Andean Tit-spinetail – a few seen well at PNN Los Nevados
White-chinned Thistletail – an amazingly responsive pair of birds, coming out in the open at some 5-6m distance, for photographs and incredible views
Silvery-throated Spinetail (E) – we coaxed out a whole family group of this endemic near PNN Chingaza
Azara's Spinetail - many
Pale-breasted Spinetail – seen and heard in a few locations
Rusty-headed Spinetail (E) – several great views of this handsome furnariid in the Santa Marta range
Slaty Spinetail – a few heard and glimpsed near Manizales
White-whiskered Spinetail (NE) – this fantastic species showed well on several occasions on the Guajira
White-browed Spinetail – one responsive individual came right out for us below PNN Los Nevados
Red-faced Spinetail – several seen at various locations
Streak-capped Spinetail (E) – a number seen well at the upper elevations in the Santa Marta range
Ash-browed Spinetail – a few seen in mixed flocks at Laguna Pedropalo
Yellow-chinned Spinetail – seen off the main highway north of Honda, and again at PNN Isla Salamanca
Many-striped Canastero – a few seen at PNN Los Nevados
Rusty-winged Barbtail – one seen overhead at Otun-Quimbaya
Spotted Barbtail – two seen well at Anori
Star-chested Treerunner (NE) – a good number seen near and far at Cerro Montezuma
Pearled Treerunner – numerous at the higher elevation sites
Pacific Tuftedcheek – two seen in separate mixed flocks at Cerro Montezuma
Streaked Tuftedcheek – a few seen at Rio Blanco
Montane Foliage-gleaner – seen and heard at a few locations
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner – a few seen at Cerro Montezuma
Lineated Foliage-gleaner – only two seen this tour, both at Anori
Western Woodhaunter – one surprised us, with eye-level close views at Anori
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner – a few seen at Anori
Striped Treehunter – one seen above Jardin
Uniform Treehunter – a few seen at Cerro Montezuma
Flammulated Treehunter – one seen at Rio Blanco
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner – one heard at Cerro Montezuma, and one seen near Minca
Ruddy Foliage-Gleaner – a responsive pair came right out for us at Cerro Montezuma
Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner (E) – one finally popped out after trying several known territories traveling up into the Santa Marta range
Gray-throated Leaftosser – wonderful views of this skulker along a creekbed in the Santa Marta range
Plain Xenops – a few seen in various places
Streaked Xenops – a few seen in various places
Tyrannine Woodcreeper – one came in to playback above Jardin
Plain-brown Woodcreeper – seen in several places
Olivaceous Woodcreeper – a pair seen at Rio Claro
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper – a few seen at Cerro Montezuma
Strong-billed Woodcreeper – Heard
Black-banded Woodcreeper – Heard
Cocoa Woodcreeper – seen at Rio Claro and again in the Santa Marta range
Olive-backed Woodcreeper – one seen at Anori
Spotted Woodcreeper – a couple seen at Cerro Montezuma
Straight-billed Woodcreeper – seen at Mana Dulce, and again in the Santa Marta area
Montane Woodcreeper – many, including several of the rarer Santa Marta subspecies, proposed as a split
Streak-headed Woodcreeper – several seen in a few locations
ANTBIRDS
Fasciated Antshrike – two seen at Laguna Tabacal
Great Antshrike – Heard
Black-crested Antshrike – seen at PNN Isla Salamanca and again on the Guajira
Barred Antshrike – a pair responded at Minca for views
Bar-crested Antshrike (NE) – heard in a few locations and seen very well at Mana Dulce, Bellavista Preserve, and near Anori
Uniform Antshrike – one male responded wonderfully at Cerro Montezuma
Black-backed Antshrike (NE) – a pair came out for great, close, views below Minca
Western Slaty Antshrike – one seen at Mana Dulce
Plain Antvireo – seen at both Mana Dulce and Laguna Tabacal
Bicoloured Antvireo (Vu) – a pair seen at close range, foraging with a mixed flock on Cerro Montezuma
Pacific Antwren – seen at Rio Claro and near the Oilbird Cave
Slaty Antwren – seen at Cerro Montezuma
Checker-throated Antwren – an unprompted display by a male at Rio Claro afforded amazing views
Yellow-breasted Antwren – a pair responded to playback at Cerro Montezuma
Rufous-winged Antwren – a shocker near the lowest elevation at Cerro Montezuma, and perhaps a first for the site
Dot-winged Antwren – Heard
Northern White-fringed Antwren – an incredible male nearly landed on me during playback at Mana Dulce and posed for photos! Also saw several on the Guajira
Rufous-rumped Antwren – seen well at Anori and again at Cerro Montezuma
Long-tailed Antbird – Heard at Rio Blanco and seen wonderfully in the Santa Marta Mountains
Dusky Antbird – a female came in to playback below Anori
Parker's Antbird (E) – great views of male and females of this endemic at Anori
Jet Antbird – two very responsive males seen at eye-level and above at Mana Dulce
White-bellied Antbird – my best encounter with this species yet! Seeing a male and female at 3m distance, full views
Chestnut-backed Antbird – quite a few seen around Rio Claro
Dull-mantled (Magdalena) Antbird (E) – perhaps the Antbird of the trip, a pair of this species came in to playback hopping on the rocks in front of us giving full views at 3m!!! Rio Claro
Immaculate Antbird – Heard
ANTTHRUSHES
Black-faced Antthrush – Glimpsed by a few, seen well by Leader Only, Oilbird Cave property
ANTPITTAS
Moustached Antpitta (Vu) – Heard
Scaled Antpitta – glimpsed by a few in the Santa Marta range
Tawny Antpitta – the friendliest Antpitta seen out in full glory at PNN Los Nevados
Brown-banded Antpitta (E) – a few coming in to worm feeders at Rio Blanco! Awesome
Bicoloured Antpitta (NE, Vu) – one coming to worms at Rio Blanco!! Double Awesome
Santa Marta Antpitta (E) – we played a couple individuals out, ensuring good looks for everyone in the Santa Marta Mountains.
Yellow-breasted Antpitta – Heard
Chestnut-naped Antpitta – called in an incredibly obliging pair at Rio Blanco, both of which came to within 2m of us, practically moving amongst our ranks
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta – the most colorful Antpitta, perhaps, seen taking worms at Rio Blanco
Rufous Antpitta – Heard
Santa Marta Rufous Antpitta (E, Vu) – with patience, a pair seen at high elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains
Streak-chested Antpitta – Heard
Ochre-breasted Antpitta – seen WITHOUT PLAYBACK….crazy… spotted it as it hopped up on a low limb at Anori
Rusty-breasted [Ferruginous] Antpitta (NE) – one individual keeping vigil at his territory at Laguna Tabacal allowed wonderful views, even in the scope!
Slate-crowned Antpitta – with patience, we called this handsome species in to a worm feeder at Rio Blanco
GNATEATERS
Chestnut-crowned Gnateater – Heard
TAPACULOS
Ash-coloured Tapaculo – seen very well at Rio Blanco
Northern White-crowned Tapaculo – seen well at Anori
Santa Marta Tapaculo (E) – seen well at middle elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains
Narino Tapaculo – seen at upper elevation Cerro Montezuma
Stiles's Tapaculo (E) – glimpsed at Anori
Brown-rumped Tapaculo (E) – three different individuals seen by various parties within our group allowing good looks for everyone and astounding (1m) looks for others
Spillmann's Tapaculo – seen at Rio Blanco
Alto Pisones Tapaculo (E) – seen in the lower-middle elevation of Cerro Montezuma
Pale-bellied Tapaculo (E) – seen magnificently at PNN Chingaza in the open for photos
Paramo Tapaculo – seen at very well at PNN Los Nevados
Blackish Tapaculo – seen very well with scope views at Rio Blanco
Ocellated Tapaculo – glimpsed by some, seen very well by others, Rio Blanco
FAMILY UNCERTAIN
Wing-barred Piprites – Heard
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet – surprisingly, only one encountered this tour
Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet – seen at Anori, near Manizales, and at Otun-Quimbaya
Black-capped Tyrannulet – seen at Mundo Nuevo and at Rio Blanco
Ashy-headed Tyrannulet – seen at Anori and again at Otun-Quimbaya
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet – seen near Rio Claro
Greenish Elaenia – seen definitively en route to Jardin and again in the Santa Marta area
Yellow-bellied Elaenia - many
Lesser Elaenia – two seen below Manizales and again, singing, near Buga
Mountain Elaenia – a few seen at various montane sites
Brown-capped Tyrannulet – seen at Rio Claro
Southern Beardless Tyrannulet – seen only at Mana Dulce but heard elsewhere
White-tailed Tyrannulet – seen above Jardin
White-banded Tyrannulet – seen at Mundo Nuevo and Rio Blanco
White-throated Tyrannulet – seen at Mundo Nuevo, PNNs Chingaza and Los Nevados, and high in the Santa Marta range
Agile Tit-Tyrant – a lovely family group of four individuals chasing one another put on a nice show at Mundo Nuevo
Torrent Tyrannulet – seen only in two places, despite being normally pretty common
Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet – a pair seen well at Mana Dulce and near Buga
Yellow Tyrannulet – one seen in the Santa Marta area returning from Guajira
Subtropical Doradito – seen very well, without playback or prompt, at Parque Florida
Bronze-olive Pygmy Tyrant – one seen briefly at Anori
Rufous-headed Pygmy Tyrant – great views of this adorable little flycatcher above Jardin
Venezuelan Tyrannulet – one seen very well in the Santa Marta range
Choco Tyrannulet – seen at low elevation Cerro Montezuma
Golden-faced Tyrannulet – many
Variegated Bristle Tyrant – one seen very well at Otun-Quimbaya
Marble-faced Bristle Tyrant – a few seen at various locations
Antioquia Bristle Tyrant (E, En) – a pair seen well, finally, after diligent search at Rio Claro
Rufous-browed Tyrannulet – seen very well at Anori
Streak-necked Flycatcher – a few at various locations
Olive-striped Flycatcher – a few at various locations
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher – a few at various locations
Sepia-capped Flycatcher – seen at Rio Claro and Minca
Slaty-capped Flycatcher – a few seen at various locations
Rufous-breasted Flycatcher – seen well in a mixed flock above Jardin and at Otun-Quimbaya
Northern Scrub Flycatcher – seen wonderfully close and oblivious to us on the Guajira
Slender-billed Inezia (NE) – had equally nice looks at this species, as the previous
Pale-tipped Inezia – seen on the Guajira, but a silent bird at Mana Dulce most fit this species! This would be one a handful of records outside the lower Magdalena Valley
Flavescent Flycatcher – seen at Cerro Montezuma
Handsome Flycatcher – a few family flocks of this charming species seen at Cerro Montezuma
Ornate Flycatcher – several at various locations
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant – seen at Minca
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant – a lovely individual posed for photos high up in the Santa Marta range
Black-capped Pygmy Tyrant – one seen above us near the Oilbird Cave
Southern Bentbill – Heard closeby, but not located, near the Oilbird Cave
Scale-crested Pygmy Tyrant – a few seen at different locations
Pale-eyed Pygmy Tyrant – seen very well at Mana Dulce and again near Minca
Rufous-crowned Tody-flycatcher – a couple showed splendidly well for us as they lazily followed a mixed-flock
Slate-headed Tody-flycatcher – seen en route to Jardin and again on the Guajira
Common Tody-flycatcher – several at various locations
Brownish Twistwing – a great display by one male fascinated us near the Oilbird Cave
Olivaceous Flatbill – seen at Minca
Fulvous-breasted Flatbill – this scarce little bird perched right up for us, and I came along it by accident while we sifted through a massive mixed flock at Cerro Montezuma both days
Yellow-olive Flatbill – seen definitively at Mana Dulce and near Buga
Yellow-margined Flatbill – seen at Rio Claro
Ochre-lored Flatbill – seen near Rio Claro and again near Santa Marta
White-throated Spadebill – great looks at a silently foraging individual in Anori
Cinnamon Flycatcher - a few in various locations, including the spectacular Santa Marta subspecies
Black Phoebe - many
Olive-sided Flycatcher (Vu) – seen at a few locations
Smoke-coloured Pewee – seen at Cerro Montezuma
Wood Pewee, sp. – many
Eastern Wood Pewee – one singing bird at Rio Claro was of this species
Tropical Pewee – near Laguna Pedropalo and at Minca
Acadian Flycatcher – seen at Laguna Pedropalo and Bellavista Preserve
Willow Flycatcher – seen at Rio Claro and near Manizales
Least Flycatcher – two individuals presumed to be this species seen near Manizales
Vermilion Flycatcher – many
Streak-throated Bush Tyrant – seen at Mundo Nuevo, above Jardin, and at PNN Los Nevados
Santa Marta Bush Tyrant (E, En) – good scope views had of a distant bird upper elevation Santa Marta range
Smoky Bush Tyrant – a pair seen at Mundo Nuevo, and another pair at Rio Blanco
Pied Water Tyrant – numerous in appropriate habitat
White-headed Marsh Tyrant – seen well on the main highway north of Honda
Crowned Chat-Tyrant – set up nicely for us at PNN Los Nevados
Yellow-bellied Chat-tyrant – seen well, after some coaxing, above Jardin
Slaty-backed Chat-tyrant – seen above Jardin and seen much better at Cerro Montezuma
Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant – responded to playback at Jardin
Brown-backed Chat-tyrant – seen at Mundo Nuevo, PNNs Chingaza and Los Nevados
Long-tailed Tyrant – 2 seen on the Oilbird Cave property
Cattle Tyrant – many
Piratic Flycatcher – seen at Rio claro and en route to Jardin
Rusty-margined Flycatcher – many
Social Flycatcher – many
Great Kiskadee – many
Golden-crowned Flycatcher – a few seen at various locations
Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher – one seen at Minca
Streaked Flycatcher – one seen at Rio Claro and a pair seen near Buga
Boat-billed Flycatcher – seen in the Rio Claro area and near Santa Marta
Tropical Kingbird – the most regularly seen bird of the trip, recorded all but 2 days
Fork-tailed Flycatcher – several seen at various locations and always amazing to see
Eastern Kingbird – seen on the main highway north of Honda
Grey Kingbird – seen on the Guajira
Rufous Mourner – seen at Rio Claro
Dusky-capped Flycatcher – a few seen in various locations
Venezuelan Flycatcher – seen well on the Guajira
Panama Flycatcher – one responded beautifully to playback at PNN Isla Salamanca
Apical Flycatcher (E) – we finally got incredible looks at a feisty individual near Buga
Pale-edged Flycatcher – a few at various locations
Great Crested Flycatcher – a few seen in the Rio Claro area
Brown-crested Flycatcher – one seen and heard at Bellavista Preserve
Bright-rumped Attila – Heard
COTINGAS
Red-crested Cotinga – seen at PNNs Chingaza and Los Nevados
Green-and-black Fruiteater – multiples seen at Rio Blanco and Cerro Montezuma
Barred Fruiteater – Heard
Golden-breasted Fruiteater – a few seen very well at El Dorado and lower in the Santa Marta range
Orange-breasted Fruiteater – several (amazingly!) showed for us at Cerro Montezuma
Andean Cock-of-the-rock – at lek near Jardin and a few in the forest at Cerro Montezuma
Blue Cotinga – one spotted at great distance and viewed through the scope on the Oilbird Property
Chestnut-capped Piha (E, En) – incredible views of every inch of this scarce endemic at Anori
Dusky Piha – one flew in and perched right in front of us at Rio Blanco!
Rufous Piha – Heard
Olivaceous Piha – nearly as many seen at Cerro Montezuma as this guide has seen in his life
Red-ruffed Fruitcrow – a good number seen at Otun-Quimbaya
Long-wattled Umbrellabird - one flew quickly past us near the low bridge at Cerro Montezuma
MANAKINS
Golden-winged Manakin – several seen at Anori and Cerro Montezuma
White-bibbed Manakin (NE) – one of these enigmatic creatures seen at eye-level in Bellavista Preserve
Club-winged Manakin – one seen at Cerro Montezuma
Blue-crowned (Velvety) Manakin – one seen at the Oilbird Cave Property
White-bearded Manakin – a few seen in a few places
Lance-tailed Manakin – Heard
Green Manakin – a couple seen and heard lekking below Anori
Yellow-headed Manakin (NE) – a few males seen lekking near Apia, and my lifer of the trip!
White-crowned Manakin – a couple of this widespread, but complicated, species seen at Anori
Golden-headed Manakin – a few seen at Bellavista and near Rio Claro
TITYRAS, BECARDS
Black-tailed Myiobius – one at Rio Claro
Masked Tityra – seen at Rio Claro
Barred Becard – a few seen at Rio Blanco and another Cerro Montezuma
Cinereous Becard – seen on the Oilbird Cave property and near Buga
Cinnamon Becard – seen at Mana Dulce and seen very well at Rio Claro
White-winged Becard – a few seen and heard in various places
Black-and-white Becard – one seen near Manizales
VIREOS & GREENLETS
Rufous-browed Peppershrike – a few seen in various places
Black-billed Peppershrike – one seen through the scope en route to Medellin, another seen very close at Rio Blanco
Choco Vireo (NE, En) – one of the prize birds of the trip, we had two males in song at Cerro Montezuma!!!
Brown-capped Vireo – a few seen at various locations
Red-eyed Vireo – a few seen at various locations
Yellow-green Vireo – a couple seen en route to Jardin and near Buga
Rufous-naped Greenlet – a few great looks in mixed-species flocks at Anori
Scrub Greenlet – several seen in various places
Golden-fronted Greenlet – we had a couple great looks at this rather colorful Greenlet at Minca and on the Guajira
CROWS & JAYS
Black-chested Jay – seen below Anori and around Minca
Inca Jay – seen well at Anori
Black-collared Jay (NE) – some great views at Rio Blanco!
Beautiful Jay – unfortunately seen by few in our group, heard by all
SWALLOWS & MARTINS
White-winged Swallow – several seen in a few places
Grey-breasted Martin – many
Purple Martin – three seen on the wire at Los Flamencos
Brown-chested Martin – nine seen over the Cauca river en route to Jardin
Blue-and-white Swallow – many
Brown-bellied Swallow – many
White-thighed Swallow – a few seen at Anori
Southern Rough-winged Swallow – many
Barn Swallow – many
Cliff Swallow – a few seen at a small wetland near Manizales
WRENS
White-headed Wren – good looks at small family group at Cerro Montezuma!
Band-backed Wren – a few seen on the Oilbird Cave Property
Bicoloured Wren – a few seen and heard at various places
Rufous Wren – family groups seen at Mundo Nuevo (all around us!) and Rio Blanco
Sepia-brown Wren – several seen in a few different places
Sedge Wren – sitting out, in full song, at PNNs Chingaza and Los Nevados
Apolinar's Wren (E, En) – great views of this skulky wren sitting out, singing, at Parque Florida
Sooty-headed Wren (NE) – a pair up, singing, at eye-level at Anori less than 9m distance!
Black-bellied Wren – a few encounters with this handsome wren at various, lowland, places
Whiskered Wren – heard in many places, but only coaxed into the open our first day, at Laguna Pedropalo
Rufous-breasted Wren – seen near and above Minca in pairs
Speckle-breasted [Colombian] Wren – a surprise appearance of a silent individual that crept into view for everyone at Laguna Tabacal, species status under discussion
Rufous-and-white Wren – a favorite song of the trip, heard often in the Santa Marta range, but only one pair played out into good, close, views for us
Buff-breasted Wren – seen very well on the Guajira
Bay Wren – only one pair encountered, below Anori, and seen well
House Wren – many
Mountain Wren – seen at Rio Blanco
White-breasted Wood Wren – seen at Rio Claro
Grey-breasted Wood Wren – heard in many places and seen three times well
Munchique Wood Wren (E, Cr) – glimpsed briefly at Jardin but afforded us smashing views at Cerro Montezuma as a pair came out into full view for 5 full minutes at 3-4m distance!!!
Southern Nightingale-Wren - Heard
Chestnut-breasted Wren – glimpsed at Otun-Quimbaya but seen much better at Cerro Montezuma
GNATCATCHERS
Tropical Gnatcatcher – several seen on the Guajira
MOCKINGBIRDS, THRASHES
Tropical Mockingbird – several seen at various places
THRUSHES
Andean Solitaire – heard in many places but only seen once, well, at Cerro Montezuma
Black-billed Thrush – many
Pale-breasted Thrush – many
Clay-coloured Thrush – several in a few places
Yellow-legged Thrush – a few seen in the middle elevations of the Santa Marta range
Chestnut-bellied Thrush – one seen below Mundo Nuevo
Glossy-black Thrush – seen well at Cerro Montezuma
Great Thrush – many
Black-hooded Thrush – two seen well at middle elevations of Santa Marta Mountains
Black Solitaire (NE) – inexplicably numerous at Cerro Montezuma, with 26 seen in ONE DAY!
Orange-billed Nightingale-thrush – one seen below manizales
Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush – Heard
Grey-cheeked Thrush – one seen at Otun-Quimbaya, rare for the site and elevation
Swainson's Thrush – several seen in a few places
DIPPERS
White-capped Dipper – three seen between Rio Blanco and Otun-Quimbaya
FINCHES
Trinidad Euphonia – one seen briefly and a few heard on the Guajira
Velvet-fronted Euphonia E – we found a pair of these tricky Euphonias at Mana Dulce!
Thick-billed Euphonia – many
Golden-rumped Euphonia – Heard
Fulvous-vented Euphonia – seen at Oilbird Cave property
Orange-bellied Euphonia – many
Yellow-collared Chlorophonia – we had a number of flocks of these pretty finches in the lower elevations of Cerro Montezuma
Blue-naped Chlorophonia – a few in a few places, and tons at El Dorado!
Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia – this most stunning member of the genus gave us unbelievable close, long looks on several occasions at Cerro Montezuma
Andean Siskin (NE) – a few good size flocks of these were seen near PNN Chingaza
Yellow-bellied Siskin – a few seen at Anori and Rio Blanco
Lesser Goldfinch – a few seen in several locations
NEW WORLD WARBLERS
Golden-winged Warbler – males seen at Rio Blanco and Cerro Montezuma
Tennessee Warbler – numerous in the Santa Marta range
Tropical Parula – a few seen in various places
Yellow Warbler – several seen in different places
Blackburnian Warbler – a near third as the most regularly seen species this tour
Bay-breasted Warbler – several seen in a few places
Townsend's Warbler – one seen at Isla Salamanca!
Magnolia Warbler – one seen near Manizales, a first in the central Andes!
Cerulean Warbler (Vu) – one seen near Manizales and another at Otun-Quimbaya
Black-and-white Warbler – many
American Redstart – a few seen in various places
Prothonotary Warbler – several seen near the coast
Northern Waterthrush – a few seen in various places
Louisiana Waterthrush – one seen at PNN Isla Salamanca
Mourning Warbler – one below Anori, one near Manizales, and one at Minca
Masked Yellowthroat – two seen at a small wetland near Manizales
Wilson's Warbler – one seen above Jardin, a second record for the region!
Canada Warbler – many
Slate-throated Whitestart – many
Golden-fronted Whitestart (NE) – several seen at upper elevations
Yellow-crowned Whitestart (E) – several seen very well at high elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains
Citrine Warbler – a group seen at Mundo Nuevo, and several seen above Jardin
Choco Warbler – fairly numerous in mixed flocks at lower elevations at Cerro Montezuma
Black-crested Warbler – one at Nuevo Mundo, and a pair at PNN Los Nevados
Santa Marta Warbler (E) – two seen well at high elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains
White-lored Warbler (E) – several seen in the Santa Marta range
Russet-crowned Warbler – a few seen above Jardin and Rio Blanco
Golden-crowned Warbler – a few seen in the middle elevations of the Santa Marta range
Rufous-capped Warbler – several seen in various locations
Three-striped Warbler – many
Buff-rumped Warbler – many
OROPENDOLAS, ORIOLES & BLACKBIRDS
Crested Oropendola – many seen in the Santa Marta range, and a few near Rio Claro
Chestnut-headed Oropendola – a few seen near Rio Claro
Yellow-rumped Cacique – many seen at Rio Claro
Mountain Cacique – seen at Mundo Nuevo and several more at Jardin
Yellow-billed Cacique – a few seen at Rio Blanco and Cerro Montezuma
Yellow-tailed Oriole – a pair seen in Santa Marta environs
Yellow-backed Oriole – many
Yellow Oriole – seen on the Guajira
Orange-crowned Oriole – several seen in a few different places
Baltimore Oriole – one seen at Minca
Red-bellied Grackle (E, En) – an impressive flock
Yellow-hooded Blackbird – many
Shiny Cowbird – many
Bronze-brown Cowbird – a small flock seen on the Guajira
Giant Cowbird – just a few seen
Carib Grackle – several seen near the coast
Great-tailed Grackle – many near the coast
Red-breasted Blackbird – many
Eastern Meadowlark – fairly numerous in high elevation pastures near Bogota
BANANAQUIT
Bananaquit – many
BUNTINGS, NEW WORLD SPARROWS & ALLIES
Tocuyo Sparrow (NE) – one seen by most participants on the Guajira, a very rare bird!
Black-striped Sparrow – seen at Anori
Orange-billed Sparrow – a pair at Rio claro
Golden-winged Sparrow (NE) – several of these stunning birds seen near and above Minca
Chestnut-capped Brush Finch – a few at Otun-Quimbaya and Cerro Montezuma
Black-headed Brush Finch (NE) – one surprised us at Cerro Montezuma, part of a tiny disjunct population
Colombian Brush Finch (E) – a few seen at El Dorado
Grey-browed [Stripe-headed] Brush Finch – one at Mundo Nuevo and several at Rio Blanco
Olive Finch – one came right out in the open at Cerro Montezuma!
Moustached Brush-Finch – sat up and sang for us at Laguna Pedropalo
White-naped Brush Finch – a few seen in a different places
Pale-naped Brush Finch – several seen at Mundo Nuevo and a few near PNN Chingaza
Yellow-headed Brush-Finch (E, En) – a new population discovered near Manizales!!!
Slaty Brush Finch – several seen in a couple different locations
Santa Marta Brush Finch (E) – numerous in the Santa Marta range
Choco Brush Finch – numerous at Cerro Montezuma
Rufous-naped [Yellow-breasted] Brush Finch – one seen at PNN Los Nevados
Common Bush Tanager – seen at Otun-Quimbaya
Dusky Bush Tanager – numerous at Cerro Montezuma
Yellow-throated Bush Tanager – several at Anori and a few at Cerro Montezuma
Yellow-green Bush Tanager (NE) – a few of this extremely rare bird seen at lower elevation of Cerro Montezuma!
Ashy-throated Bush Tanager – seen at Otun-Quimbaya
Rufous-collared Sparrow – many
TANAGERS & ALLIES
Black-faced Tanager – a few at Anori
White-capped Tanager – a noisy, wonderfully close group of these stunner at Rio Blanco
Black-capped Hemispingus – several in a few places
Superciliaried Hemispingus – several in a few places
Oleaginous Hemispingus – a few near Manizales
Black-eared Hemispingus – a few at Rio Blanco
Black-headed Hemispingus – two of this scarce elfin forest species seen very well near PNN Chingaza
Grey-hooded Bush Tanager – a few seen in different places
Grey-headed Tanager – Heard
Tawny-crested Tanager – Heard
White-lined Tanager – seen near Jardin
Crimson-backed Tanager – many
Flame-rumped Tanager E – several in various places
Lemon-rumped Tanager – a few seen in the Magdalena Valley
Blue-grey Tanager – many
Glaucous Tanager (NE) – a few seen very well on the Guajira
Blue-capped Tanager – several seen in a few different places
Palm Tanager – many
Black-and-gold Tanager (E, Vu) – many great views of this special bird at Cerro Montezuma
Gold-ringed Tanager (E, En) – shocking numbers of these seen and photographed at Cerro Montezuma!
Hooded Mountain Tanager – a pair at Mundo Nuevo, and singles above Jardin and Rio Blanco
Black-chested Mountain Tanager – great views of this handsome, colorful bird near PNN Chingaza
Santa Marta Mountain Tanager (E) – this species put on a great show for us at high elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains
Lacrimose Mountain Tanager – several seen above Jardin and at Rio Blanco
Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager – several seen at various high elevation locations
Blue-winged Mountain Tanager – a few seen at various places
Black-chinned Mountain Tanager – numerous at Cerro Montezuma
Grass-green Tanager – many views of this gorgeous bird above Jardin and at Rio Blanco
Buff-breasted Mountain Tanager – one viewed while singing at PNN Chingaza, other singles seen at Rio Blanco and the upper elevation of the Santa Marta Mountains
Purplish-mantled Tanager (NE) – several seen in various places and voted favorite bird of the tour by the participants!
Golden-crowned Tanager – great looks at this beauty near PNN Los Nevados
Glistening-green Tanager – a number of these showy birds at Cerro Montezuma
Multicoloured Tanager (E, Vu) – seen well at Anori, and again at Otun-Quimbaya
Plain-coloured Tanager – several seen in the Magdalena Valley
Golden Tanager – many
Silver-throated Tanager – several seen at Cerro Montezuma
Saffron-crowned Tanager – one seen above Jardin
Speckled Tanager – a few seen at Anori
Rufous-throated Tanager – a few seen well at Cerro Montezuma
Bay-headed Tanager – many
Scrub Tanager (NE) – many
Golden-naped Tanager – one seen at higher elevation Cerro Montezuma
Metallic-green Tanager – two seen en route to Anori
Blue-necked Tanager – several seen in various places
Golden-hooded Tanager – a few seen at Rio Claro
Beryl-spangled Tanager – many
Blue-and-black Tanager – several seen in a few high elevation places
Black-capped Tanager – many
Black-headed Tanager – one of these rare birds seen at middle elevation in the Santa Marta range
Swallow Tanager – only one seen near Rio Claro and another at Minca
Turquoise Dacnis (E, Vu) – two seen at Laguna Pedropalo
Yellow-tufted Dacnis – a few of these seen well at Rio Claro
Blue Dacnis – surprisingly seen only at Minca
Purple Honeycreeper – a couple seen near Rio Claro and again at Minca
Green Honeycreeper – a pair seen near Manizales
Scarlet-browed Tanager – great looks at a pair in Rio Claro
Yellow-backed Tanager – a couple seen at Rio Claro
Guira Tanager – a pair seen at Anori
Scarlet-and-White Tanager – two incredible males seen at the lower elevations of Cerro Montezuma
Bicoloured Conebill – several seen at PNN Isla Salamanca
Rufous-browed Conebill (NE) – a few at Mundo Nuevo and even more seen well at PNN Chingaza
Blue-backed Conebill – a few seen at various high elevation sites
Capped Conebill – numerous at Rio Blanco
White-sided Flowerpiercer – many
Glossy Flowerpiercer – several at high elevation sites
Black Flowerpiercer – a few at high elevation sites
Indigo Flowerpiercer (NE) – crushing looks of neon blue at Anori and Cerro Montezuma
Bluish Flowerpiercer – numerous at Cerro Montezuma
Masked Flowerpiercer – several at various places
Tanager Finch (NE) – glimpsed and heard often at Cerro Montezuma
Grey Pileated Finch – seen at Mana Dulce and on the Guajira
Plumbeous Sierra Finch – seen at PNNs Chingaza and Los Nevados
Saffron Finch – many
Blue-black Grassquit – many
Grey Seedeater – a few seen at Mana Dulce
Yellow-bellied Seedeater – many
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater – seen well at a wetland near Manizales
Lesser Seed Finch – a few at Cerro Montezuma
Band-tailed Seedeater – several seen at Huasca
Plain-coloured Seedeater – several seen at Huasca
Paramo Seedeater – seen at PNN Los Nevados
Dull-coloured Grassquit – seen near Minca
Yellow-faced Grassquit – many
Black-faced Grassquit – two displaying males on the Guajira!
Hepatic Tanager – a couple seen at different locations
Scarlet Tanager – a few seen in various locations
Summer Tanager – many
Sooty Ant Tanager (E) – great looks of this skulker at Bellavista
Crested Ant Tanager (E) – several great views of a number of these birds at Cerro Montezuma
Rosy Thrush-tanager – one gave gorgeous views to some participants at Laguna Tabacal!
Plushcap – several seen point blank range at Rio Blanco!
GROSBEAKS, SALTATORS & ALLIES
Rose-breasted Grosbeak – a few seen in various places
Vermilion Cardinal (NE) – a gorgeous males sat up, singing, right next to the bus on the Guajira!
Greyish Saltator – several seen in a few places
Buff-throated Saltator – many
Black-winged Saltator – seen at Anori and near Manizales
Orinocan Saltator – seen very well on the Guajira
Masked Saltator – a whopping 5 seen at Rio Blanco!!!
Streaked Saltator – many
Indigo Bunting – one seen on the Guajira, a great record!
MAMMALS
Red-tailed Squirrel – many
Andean Squirrel (E) – seen at Rio Blanco
Central American Dwarf Squirrel – seen in a few places
Western Dwarf Squirrel (NE) – seen in the Santa Marta Mountains
Venezuelan Red Howler Monkey – a troop seen at Otun-Quimbaya, and more great views in the Santa Marta range
White-footed [Silvery Brown] Tamarin (E) – a small troop seen on the Oilbird Cave property
Black Agouti – a couple seen at Otun-Quimbaya
Crab-eating Fox – a pair came in to raid the kitchen at Rio Blanco!
ADDITIONAL WILDLIFE
Tricolored Munia Introduced – seen near Buga
Yellow-striped Poison Frog (E, Vu) – Bellavista preserve
Truando Toad – Rio Claro
South American Common Toad – found at the Oilbird Cave property
Cane Toad – seen in the Oilbird Cave
"Green Snake" Chironius, sp. – one fell out of a tree onto the road en route to Jardin