In March 2004 we had made a brief exploratory trip to Ecuador, vowing to return the following year for a longer visit. Now, eight years and many birding trips later, we were finally making good on our promise! On the previous visit we had used Quito-based guide Edison Bueñano for several one-day outings in the Quito area, and knew him to be an excellent birder and very nice guy. We were delighted, therefore, to discover that he is now running his own company, Sword Billed Expeditions (http://www.swordbilledexpeditions.com/), specializing in birding trips to Ecuador, Colombia and Peru. We contacted Edison about a late-February trip, and he suggested a 2-week itinerary through southern Ecuador, visiting five Jocotoco Foundation Reserves (http://www.fjocotoco.org/) and two national parks. Most of the species endemic to the Tumbesian dry forest region can be found on this route, along with some of the very rare and local species of the eastern Andean foothills.
The dry forests of southwestern Ecuador are best birded in the wet season, September to March, when birds are on breeding territories and therefore easier to locate. This year’s wet season had, however, been an unusually severe one, presenting us with some unexpected challenges. The day before we arrived, a torrential rainstorm had caused widespread damage throughout the country, and everywhere we went we encountered washed-out roads, landslides, and road crews trying to clean up the considerable mess. Edison said he had never seen so many landslides in the 15 years he has spent birding throughout Ecuador! In some areas the rains appeared to have disrupted the birds as well, and species we were told had been easy stake-outs two weeks earlier were simply not to be found, apparently having abandoned roosts or territories. Although we did experience a lot of rain during our trip, most of it fell at night, and our birding plans were disrupted by unfavorable weather conditions on only one or two days.
The itinerary we followed was an excellent one, a circular route that took us from Guayaquil south to the Peruvian border in Loja province, then east over the Andes to Zamora, and finally north to Cuenca and back into Guayaquil. This is one of the standard trips (#6) being offered by Sword Billed Expeditions, but we modified it slightly, adding an extra day at Bombuscaro (Podocarpus NP) and opting to spend our first day at Cerro Blanco, a dry forest site near Guayaquil, rather than at the Manglares Churute wetlands. All of the accommodations we stayed in were very comfortable and convenient to the birding sites. The Jocotoco Foundation lodges and the Copalinga Lodge in Zamora cater specifically to birders, and even though they are located in relatively remote locations (i.e., great birding spots!) have all the amenities that make for a comfortable stay – around-the-clock electricity, a generous supply of hot water, modern bathroom fixtures, etc. Food was mostly fairly simple local fare prepared exquisitely – we ate very well throughout the trip! The hotels we stayed at in the major cities (Guayaquil, Loja, Cuenca) were also very comfortable, quiet, and convenient to the city centers, with good restaurants and other attractions within easy walking distance.
Edison is a first-rate birding guide as well as an easy-going and enjoyable traveling companion, and we recommend him highly. He has an intimate knowledge of Ecuador’s birds – especially their vocalizations – plus the patience necessary to get color-blind clients onto them! We’ve birded many countries with many different local guides, and this was certainly one of the smoothest, most productive, and above-all enjoyable trips we’ve taken!
Saturday 18 February
We flew from LAX to Miami to Guayaquil on American Airlines, arriving in Ecuador several hours late after mechanical problems delayed our departure from Miami. American had also managed to lose our luggage somewhere en route, and it was nearly midnight by the time we finished filling out missing baggage reports and finally rendezvoused with Edison outside the customs hall. Fortunately, our comfortable hotel was only a short drive from the airport, and we were in bed less than 30 minutes later.
Sunday 19 February
After a too-short night we were up for breakfast at 6 a.m., still dressed as we had been on the plane. A call to American Airlines informed us that the earliest our luggage might arrive in Guayaquil – if it arrived! – would be late tonight, so the soonest we could expect to see it would be sometime Monday. Although our traveling clothes were not those we would normally have chosen to wear birding in a hot, wet climate, they would suffice, and fortunately we had packed all of our optics in our carry-on bags. Footwear was problematic, however, as the slip-on shoes we had worn for comfort on the plane were not ideal for slippery, muddy trails. From now on we’ll follow the advice we were once given but have rarely heeded – pack birding clothes and boots in your carry-on bags or wear them on the plane!
We spent the morning at Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco, an area of protected dry forest close to Guayaquil. Here we got our first – and in some cases our only – looks at a number of Tumbesian endemics, including Elegant Crescentchest, Collared Antshrike, Pacific Parrotlet, Speckle-breasted Wren, Baron’s Hermit, Amazilia Hummingbird, Ecuadorian Trogon, Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, White-tailed Jay, Fasciated Wren, Pacific Elaenia, Sooty-crowned Flycatcher and Black-capped Sparrow. A stunning Gray-capped Cuckoo accompanied by a Black-billed Cuckoo were unexpected finds, as was a roosting Common Potoo, a species that is apparently rare in this habitat.
After a picnic lunch we started the 4 hour drive to Santa Isabel, the town closest to the Jocotoco Foundation’s Yunquilla Reserve, which we would visit the next morning. East of Guayaquil the main road passes through the extensive Manglares Churute wetlands. The recent rains had also flooded pastures and roadsides throughout the area, and as we drove we picked out many wetland birds at close range, including Wattled Jacanas, Snail Kites, Fulvous and Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, Ringed Kingfishers, and even a Horned Screamer sitting conspicuously beside the road. We stopped briefly en route to replace the few items in our lost luggage that we had realized we could not do without: sunscreen, bug repellent, dry socks, and, eyeing the dark clouds building over the foothills, umbrellas. We arrived at the Agua y Sol Resort outside Santa Isabel at sunset, and by dinnertime it was pouring rain and we were very glad to have the umbrellas!
Monday 20 February
The hotel staff who were supposed to provide us with a 5 a.m. breakfast never appeared (probably not surprising as the pre-Lent carnival celebrations were in full swing!), so we broke out some juice and cookies from Edison’s well-stocked snack box and headed for Yunquilla, arriving while it was still dark enough for us to surprise two Band-winged Nightjars on the access road. As luck would have it, this was probably the muddiest site we visited, when boots would have been most welcome. A small landslide had taken out a section of trail adjacent to a small stream (now in full flood), and we had to wait for Edison and the ranger to make some hasty repairs before crossing the stream and carefully traversing the loose, muddy embankment. So much for our attempts to keep our only set of clothes and shoes clean!
The Yunquilla Reserve was established to protect the only known population of the globally endangered Pale-headed Brush-Finch, thought to be extinct until it was rediscovered here in 1998. This species was the morning’s primary target, and with a little patience one was eventually located and coaxed into a trailside shrub for a close, albeit brief, look. The very vocal Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrushes and Stripe-headed Brush-Finches were less cooperative, but we did finally manage to get glimpses of both of these supreme skulkers. We also encountered several mixed flocks that included goodies such as Rufous-winged Tyrannulet, Rufous-chested Tanager, and Dull-colored Grassquit along with an assortment of common mid-elevation species: Masked Flowerpiercer, Blue-Winged Mountain-Tanager, Turquoise Jay, Southern Yellow Grosbeak, Crimson-mantled and Smoky-brown Woodpeckers, Slate-throated Whitestart, and Black-crested Warbler.
We returned to the resort for a late morning breakfast, picking up Peruvian Meadowlark and Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant on the grounds before leaving for our next destination, the Buenaventura Reserve. American Airlines had phoned with the welcome news that our luggage had made it to Guayaquil, and several lengthy phone calls were now required for Edison to explain to the delivery service how to find Buenaventura, which is 25 km from the nearest town. We arrived there in time to eat our picnic lunch at the Jardin des Colibries, a site on the far side of the reserve where hummingbird feeders are maintained for the public to visit. The large, open feeders here were teeming with White-necked Jacobins, Brown Violetears, Green Thorntails, Green-crowned Brilliants, Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds, Violet-bellied Hummingbirds and Andean Emeralds. We lingered here for a little while after lunch, waiting out a heavy rain shower under the covered viewing area before eventually moving on to drive around to the reserve’s main entrance, 5 km down a narrow dirt track.
The Buenaventura Reserve was established to protect the El Oro Parakeet, a species that was only discovered in 1980, and occupies a very restricted geographical range. Located in the transition zone between the Choco and Tumbesian regions, the reserve supports a very high diversity of bird species, including, fortuitously, a breeding colony of Long-wattled Umbrellabirds. A small ecotourism facility, aptly named Umbrellabird Lodge, has now been built on the property, and it was here that we would spend the next two nights. The lodge consists of two cabins, each with 2 or 3 small but comfortable guest rooms, and a large open-air dining area surrounded by hummingbird feeders. These incredibly busy feeders were being frequented by the same species we had already noted at Jardin des Colibries, along with the occasional Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Emerald-bellied Woodnymph, and Long-billed Starthroat.
We watched the hummingbird feeders while waiting for another shower to pass, and then drove a short distance to the Umbrellabird Trail, where the male Long-wattled Umbrellabirds engage in their bizarre courtship displays at dusk. The ranger who accompanied us quickly located one of the displaying males – in the dim light it took a minute for us to realize that the long appendage hanging down from the branch on which the bird sat was not his tail, but his wattle! Watching him pump the wattle up with air before emitting a seductive mooing sound was definitely a trip highlight!
Shortly before dinner we received word that our luggage had arrived, delivered to the house of one of the rangers who lives along the main road. We drove over to pick it up, returned for the first of the many very nice dinners we would be served at the Jocotoco Foundation lodges, and finally retired to our cabin for the night, relieved to have clean clothes and appropriate footwear for the morning!
Tuesday 21 February
At breakfast we were joined by several Rufous-headed Chachalacas and a Coati attracted to the dining area by offerings of bananas. The morning was clear and dry, and we drove to the far side of the reserve to look for El Oro Parakeets. We made several stops en route, picking up Ochraceous Attila, Gray-backed Hawk, Western Slaty-Antshrike, Loja Tyrannulet, Yellow-tufted Dacnis, Band-tailed Barbthroat, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan and Gartered Trogon. While we waited for the parakeets, Uniform Antshrike and Chestnut-headed Oropendola put in appearances, and finally, after several noisy fly-bys, a group of five El Oro Parakeets arrived at an active nestbox. These birds are accustomed to humans checking their nests daily, and allowed us to approach the box very closely for photos. We then continued along the road on foot, encountering a mixed flock that included Pacific Tuftedcheek, Scaly-throated Foliage-Gleaner and Andean Solitaire, before a sudden downpour forced us back to the car and ultimately back to the lodge for lunch.
It rained heavily for several hours, and we spent the time photographing the hummingbirds, whose visits to the feeders were not at all deterred by the weather. In the late afternoon we finally grabbed umbrellas and headed out the road past the Umbrellabird Trail, although we didn’t get far before we had to abandon the car and proceed on foot around a new landslide that had blocked the road. We spent much of the afternoon staking out a clump of Heliconia flowers, finally managing to get brief but diagnostic views of a White-tipped Sicklebill that visited the flowers periodically but never stayed for more than a few seconds. A mixed flock was also foraging in the area, consisting mostly of Yellow-throated Bush-Tanagers along with a few Golden, Bay-headed and Silver-throated Tanagers. Amid rain and failing light we returned to the lodge to shower before dinner, ticking a White-whiskered Hermit from the porch of our cabin.
Wednesday 22 February
After breakfast we headed back to the same area where we’d ended the day yesterday to search for some of the Buenaventura specialties we’d not yet seen. We had an early success with Song Wren, but then hit a dry spell as Esmeraldas Antbird and Western Woodhaunter both taunted us by calling nearby but refusing to show themselves. A pair of calling Rufous Motmots also played hard to get, and when a motmot did finally appear, entertaining us as it caught and delivered cicadas to a fledgling, it took a minute before we realized it was actually a Broad-billed Motmot! The Rufous Motmots were less cooperative, but we did eventually manage to get some slightly obstructed views of one. We finished the morning with a Choco Toucan, a very photogenic Ornate Flycatcher, and a nice mixed flock that included a pair of Slaty Antwrens among several species of tanagers and woodcreepers.
We left the lodge in late morning, our departure delayed somewhat by stops along the entrance track for Barred Puffbird, Fasciated Tiger-Heron, and a Nine-banded Armadillo! Once on our way we quickly discovered that the main route to Loja was closed, the consequence of a major landslide that had killed a number of people. The most logical alternative route was also closed due to storm damage, necessitating a circuitous detour along the Peruvian border to reach our next destination near the town of Macara. The extra time this route added to our journey was more than compensated, however, by some excellent birding along the way. Just east of the village of Saucillo a Pale-browed Tinamou crossed the road in front of us, affording one of the best views we’ve ever had of any tinamou anywhere (until later this trip…)! A few miles further on we stopped at a promising-looking patch of dry forest, and had 15 minutes of fun and frenzied roadside birding as a succession of great birds popped up in response to Edison’s Pacific Pygmy-Owl tape: Parrot-billed Seedeater, Crimson-breasted Finch, Tumbes Pewee, Plumbeous-backed Thrush, several Black-and-White Tanagers, and a distant but recognizable Baird’s Flycatcher! The thrush was the only one of these species we would see again, and we were very glad we’d been forced to make this detour!
The sun had set by the time we arrived at the Jorupe Reserve and settled into our cabin at Urraca Lodge, the Jocotoco Foundation’s newest and largest accommodation. A number of spacious private cabins are scattered around the grounds, out of sight of one another and each with a balcony overlooking the forest canopy. A large screened dining room also includes a comfortable veranda with good views over the surrounding forest, the perfect place to relax with a late afternoon drink! We had just enough time for a quick shower before another delicious Jocotoco meal, and then retired early in anticipation of an early start in the morning.
Thursday 23 February
It had rained throughout the night and was still raining as we headed for breakfast at 5 a.m. Despite the wet weather, a Spectacled Owl was calling from a large tree close to the dining room, and we started the day with good looks at this handsome bird. We then drove to the nearby Utuana Reserve, passing through heavy showers and fog as we climbed to 8000 ft. Fortunately, as we reached the reserve the rain eased off and the clouds lifted, and we spent a dry and intermittently sunny morning exploring the cloud forest and searching for the very local specialties this reserve was designed to protect. Black-cowled Saltator and Black-crested Tit-Tyrant came fairly easily, but Chapman’s Antshrike took a bit more work before we finally managed to get on a pair. Line-cheeked Spinetail and Red-crested Cotinga also gave us good looks, and throngs of Rainbow Starfrontlets, Purple-throated Sunangels, and Speckled Hummingbirds presented great photo opportunities as they visited the feeders.
We ate a picnic lunch in warm sunshine, and then started down the mountain, planning to stop at lower elevations to look for other local specialties such as Gray-headed Antbird and Bay-crowned Brush-Finch. This plan was aborted almost immediately as we descended into torrential rain and zero visibility conditions! We beat a hasty retreat back to the slightly drier lower elevations of Jorupe, stopping on the way to look at wet Chestnut-collared Swallows nesting under the eaves of a village church.
We spent the last two hours of the day birding the grounds at Jorupe, getting great looks at Gray-cheeked Parakeets, a pair of Whooping Motmots, and four Ecuadorian Trogons perched together in one of the spectacular ceiba trees that dominate the forest here. About half of our time, however, was spent trying to see a Watkins’s Antpitta that was calling from an invisible perch close to the track. After teasing us for close to an hour, the bird finally gave up the game and flew, leaving us with only a brief glimpse of a white blur as it crossed the track.
Friday 24 February
The rain continued through the night again, and it was still raining during breakfast. We donned our raingear and rubber boots, and headed out into the reserve. Of course the weather cleared almost immediately, and by mid-morning we were sweltering in our raingear in the hot sun! Perhaps because of the weather, the birds were far less responsive than expected, and we had to work hard for every one. After 5 long hours we finally managed to see Henna-hooded Foliage-Gleaner, Gray-breasted Flycatcher, Pacific Pygmy-Owl, Ecuadorian Piculet, Blackish-headed Spinetail, and Slaty, One-colored and Black-and-White Becards. Rufous-necked Foliage-Gleaner was especially uncooperative, and after numerous flight views only Cathy finally managed to get bins on a perched bird for a few milliseconds. While searching for these Jorupe specialties, we also got excellent views of Red-masked Parakeets, a pair of Gray-backed Hawks soaring overhead, and added Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Laughing Falcon and Bat Falcon to the trip list. Two more attempts to see Watkins’s Antpitta ended the same way as yesterday’s, with nothing more than a white blur glimpsed out of the corner of the eye as an otherwise invisible bird flew across the track.
After an early lunch, we said farewell to Jorupe and set off for the eastern slope of the Andes. En route to our overnight stopover in Loja we made two birding stops. The first was at a site near El Empalme where White-headed Brush-Finch can usually be found. In keeping with the frustrations of the morning, however, no brush-finches appeared, although as compensation we ticked two White-edged Orioles and another Ecuadorian Piculet. We then climbed through dense fog and rain to the western rim of the central valley, breaking through into bright sun and clear skies as soon as we began the descent into Catamayo.
We reached “Finch Heaven” outside Catamayo with about an hour of daylight left, and – predictably given the way the day had gone so far – it took most of that time to finally locate a Tumbes Sparrow. Along the way we managed to find Ash-breasted and Band-tailed Sierra-Finches as well as Croaking Ground-Dove, and it was with considerable relief that we continued our journey into Loja. We put the frustrations of the day behind us over beer and a nice dinner in the restaurant at Hotel El Libertador.
Saturday 25 February
The hotel prepared an early breakfast for us, and by 7 a.m. we were at the Cajanuma entrance to Podocarpus NP, another cloud forest site but now on the eastern slope of the Andes. We worked our way along the entrance road, managing to get rather distant views of Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan and Bearded Guan, and much closer views of Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager, Black-capped Hemispingus, Rufous Wren, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Blue-backed Conebill, Grass-green Tanager, and a Green-and-Black Fruiteater. We then hiked the Spectacled Bear Trail, stopping a short way into the forest to troll for Rufous Antpitta. After getting no response Edison had switched the tape to Chusquea Tapaculo, when suddenly a Rufous Antpitta hopped out onto the trail right at our feet! Next a Chusquea Tapaculo appeared and showed well, and we were barely done with that species when a Barred Fruiteater landed directly over our heads and proceeded to forage on berries! Eventually we tore ourselves away from this productive spot to continue up the trail, finding Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant, an unexpected Purple-backed Thornbill, and a mixed flock that included our first Golden-crowned Tanagers. The Rufous Antpitta was waiting for us as we descended the trail back to the parking lot, and once again hopped out into the path for photo ops.
It was well past noon when we finally left Cajanuma and drove on to have lunch in Vilcabamba, “The Valley of Longevity”. This is an attractive, artsy little town with a large ex-pat population, and, judging by the patrons of the restaurant where we ate, is a mecca for backpackers. Hunger sated, we continued south to the Tapichalaca Reserve, driving through an area badly damaged by mudslides, the predictable consequence of hillsides having been denuded as part of a road-widening project. As we reached the upper limits of the reserve we stopped for some roadside birding, and encountered a flock with Golden-crowned and Blue-capped Tanagers, Black-headed Hemispingus, Pearled Treerunner, Glossy Flowerpiercer, and the only Mountain Wren of the trip. A second stop further on produced great looks at Mouse-colored Thistletail, as well as Rufous-capped Thornbill and Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager.
We found Casa Simpson at Tapichalaca to be the most attractive and cozy of the Jocotoco Foundation lodges we visited, with a spacious dining room, bar, and lounge area built around a central fireplace, and several guest rooms upstairs in the same building. A wide veranda houses the requisite hummingbird feeders, and the clientele here included Chestnut-breasted Coronets, Collared Incas, Long-tailed Sylphs, Amethyst-throated and Flame-throated Sunangels, Fawn-breasted Brilliants, and occasionally a White-bellied Woodstar or Speckled Hummingbird. Two juvenile Chusquea Tapaculos were even brazenly hopping around under the feeders!
It had been a beautiful, dry day (the only completely dry day of the trip!), and we took advantage of the fine weather to do some owling, driving the short distance to Quebrada Honda and walking out the Jocotoco Trail to the Mirador. Along the way we found Streaked Tuftedcheek, a White-throated Quail-Dove walking the trail, and watched distant Golden-plumed Parakeets arriving at their nestboxes. Several Rufous-bellied Nighthawks flew over the Mirador at dusk, and on the walk back in the dark a White-throated Screech-Owl gave us good looks. The food at Casa Simpson lived up to the standards set by its sister lodges, and we retired for the night on full stomachs.
Sunday February 26
We were back at Quebrada Honda at sunrise, retracing the route we’d taken the previous evening. Our ultimate destination this time was the shelter where Jocotoco Antpittas come each morning to breakfast on earthworms prepared by the reserve staff, and we needed to be there by 8:30 a.m. This gave us plenty of time to bird along the way, and there was a lot of activity right at the start of the trail, where we picked up Orange-banded Flycatcher, Rufous-naped and Pale-naped Brush-Finches, Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, Black-capped Tyrannulet, Citrine Warbler, Oleaginous Hemispingus, Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager, Tyrian Metaltail, and an assortment of tanagers and flowerpiercers. Along the Jocotoco Trail we found Smoky Bush-Tyrant and Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, and calling Plain-tailed Wrens and a Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant were coaxed into showing themselves. When we arrived at the feeding station the Jocotoco Antpittas were already waiting, and over the next hour we took endless photos as two adults and their big baby proceeded to finish off two large piles of earthworms. The resident pair guards this site vigilantly, and they quickly saw off a Chestnut-naped Antpitta and a Glossy-black Thrush who stopped by hoping for a meal. They were more tolerant, however, of a Green-and-Black Fruiteater who came to the ground to help himself to a few worms!
After the antipittas had “cleaned their plates” we continued a short distance down the trail, getting closer looks at Golden-plumed Parakeets. Next up was another stunner, an Ocellated Tapaculo that came in response to tape and gave us great looks as he first hopped across the trail in one direction, and then returned to hop back to where he’d come from. White-throated Quail-Doves were coming to a feeding station, and a pair of Plushcaps and a Bearded Guan sitting in low vegetation alongside the trail put the finishing touches on a fantastic morning of birding!
Back at the lodge it rained torrentially during lunch, and we again used the opportunity to photograph the hummingbirds who continued to come despite the wet weather. When the rain eased off in mid-afternoon, we drove down the road to the village of Vallodolid. Here we found Silver-backed Tanager, Violet-fronted Brilliant and Torrent Tyrannulet along the river, and on the outskirts of the village eventually located all three of our main target species: Marañon Thrush, Rufous-fronted Thornbird and Black-faced Tanager. On the drive back up to Tapichalaca, three Golden-headed Quetzals crossed the road, landing in a tree where White-breasted Parakeets were feeding. It was an odd juxtaposition, but great views of two sought-after species!
Monday 27 February
Light showers continued intermittently all morning as we again worked our way down the road to Vallodolid, spending most of our time following several mixed flocks along the roadside near the lower boundaries of the reserve. A run of great birding started with a Dusky Piha foraging on berries beside the road, and continued with Rufous-tailed Tyrant, Highland and Sierran Elaenias, an Ash-colored Tapaculo seen well, Yellow-vented Woodpecker, Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant, Barred Becard, Capped Conebill, Olivaceous Siskin, Olive Finch, and a mixed flock that included Saffron-crowned, Flame-faced, Golden-naped, Metallic-green, Beryl-spangled, Blue-and-Black and Silver-backed Tanagers! On the way back up the road for lunch we stopped at a house where Bronzy Incas visit feeders. The hummingbirds were cooperative, but the show was stolen by a pair of Chestnut-crested Cotingas calling from an eye-level perch on the adjacent hillside!
We enjoyed a final Jocotoco Foundation lunch before hitting the road to drive back to Loja and then east to Zamora. Just outside of Zamora we stopped along the main road for a pair of Cliff Flycatchers, and shortly thereafter arrived at the Copalinga Lodge amid a spate of pre-sunset bird activity. The verbena bushes surrounding the parking area were busy with Violet-headed Hummingbirds, Golden-tailed Sapphires, Blue-tailed Emeralds, Spangled Coquettes (only females, unfortunately), and a pair of Wire-crested Thorntails. The adjacent trees held Golden-faced Tyrannulet, LaFresnaye’s Piculet, both Blue and Black-faced Dacnis, Crested Oropendola, and an assortment of common lowland species including Palm, Magpie, Swallow, Silver-beaked and White-lined Tanagers.
Copalinga Lodge is laid out similarly to the Jocotoco Foundation lodges, with about six very comfortable, well-appointed guest cabins, and an open-air dining room and bar with views of hummingbird feeders (there are even two heavily visited hummingbird feeders on the bar itself!). A quick check of the feeders turned up a different assortment of species from those visiting the verbena, with Violet-fronted Brilliants, Fork-tailed Woodnymphs and Glittering-throated Emeralds in the majority, and an occasional visit to the bar by a Green Hermit. The food here was exquisite, and we relaxed over an excellent meal before retiring in anticipation of an early start.
Tuesday 28 February
For once it had stayed dry throughout the night. This turned out to be a bad omen, however, as the showers arrived not long after we started up the trail into Bombuscaro, the eastern entrance to Podocarpus NP. A pair of Amazonian Umbrellabirds were seen well early on, but for the rest of the morning we struggled to pull birds out of a very quiet, wet forest. What the day lacked in quantity was made up for with quality, however, and eventually we managed to find Blackish Antbird, Foothill Antwren, Lemon-browed and Golden-crowned Flycatchers, Inca Jay and Ecuadorian Piedtail. A Coppery-chested Jacamar led us up a steep hillside, but the suboptimal views we finally got of that species and of an Andean Cock-of-the-Rock that landed nearby just left us wanting more. As we returned to the trailhead, a Black-streaked Puffbird called and we set about trying to locate it. We were interrupted by the arrival of a Lanceolated Monklet, a mega-tick that stayed in view for half an hour as we tried from every possible angle to get reasonable photos in the terrible light.
After lunch we drove out to the old Loja-Zamora road, an unpaved track that runs along the opposite side of the valley from the new, paved road we had traveled yesterday. Between continuing showers we encountered some mixed flocks, and in the course of the afternoon enjoyed birds such as Yellow-breasted Antwren, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Montane Foliage-Gleaner, Chestnut-vented Conebill, and a new assortment of tanagers: Guira, Orange-eared, Golden-eared, Blue-necked, Paradise, Spotted, Green-and-Gold and Yellow-bellied, plus Ashy-throated Bush-Tanagers!
We returned to Copalinga at dusk and continued the few km up the road into Bombuscaro, flushing a Blackish Nightjar from the road. Another excellent dinner finished off a good day, and we went to bed hoping for better weather in the morning.
Wednesday 29 February
We took it as a good sign that it had rained all night, but when it was still pouring after breakfast we began to worry that maybe we hadn’t figured out the Ecuadorian weather patterns after all. We spent about an hour watching the lodge feeders from the shelter of the dining area before reluctantly heading back to Bombuscaro with our umbrellas, but as we reached the park entrance the weather cleared, and by late morning the sun was shining brightly. The forest was an entirely different place today, and we were rarely out of sight or earshot of a mixed flock. The first bird of the day was the Black-streaked Puffbird we’d missed yesterday, followed by much better views of a Coppery-chested Jacamar. Out of several mixed flocks we pulled Red-headed Barbet, Red-billed Tyrannulet, Fulvous-breasted Flatbill, Olivaceous Greenlet, Bronze-green Euphonia, Gray-mantled Wren, and after much neck-breaking scanning of the canopy, Equatorial Graytail. A Highland Motmot sat in full view just long enough for a photo or two, and yesterday’s poor views of Andean Cock-of-the-Rock were redeemed by two males chasing each other through the canopy. The only uncooperative species this morning was a Foothill Elaenia who called repeatedly but resolutely refused to perch in view. As we headed back out of the park, already quite late for lunch, we rounded a bend in the trail to find a group of about six White-breasted Parakeets perched in a small tree right beside the trail. We’d been congratulating ourselves on the good looks at this species we’d managed to get at Tapichalaca, but this view was unparalleled! The birds stayed put while we took many photographs, and lunchtime got later and later.
It had been an exhilarating morning, and our plan for what little was left of the afternoon was to relax and explore the trails on the Copalinga property. After a session of photography around the feeders, we headed up a trail to a feeding station that is occasionally frequented by Gray Tinamous. About 50 m past the feeding station we turned a corner and found ourselves face-to-face with two Gray Tinamous coming towards us on the trail, presumably on their way to the station. We backtracked to the station and put out some corn, but the birds never returned. While we waited, however, Edison called in a Northern White-crowned Tapaculo, the fifth tapaculo species we had now seen well!
At dusk we tried for Band-bellied Owl, a species we had heard on several occasions, but the pair that lives here is apparently not very responsive to tape, and tonight was no exception. Nonetheless, we celebrated a great day over beer and yet another excellent meal!
Thursday 01 March
This morning was much like yesterday’s, with heavy rain lasting through breakfast. Not surprisingly, a pre-breakfast attempt for the Band-bellied Owls was not a success! We delayed our departure from Copalinga for about an hour while waiting for the weather to clear, and eventually moved on to spend the morning back on the old Loja-Zamora Rd. Edison continued to pull good birds out of the mixed flocks and roadside vegetation, and in fairly quick succession we added to our list Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Cerulean Warbler, Golden-winged Tody-Flycatcher, Blue-rumped Manakin, a pair of Lined Antshrikes, and Golden-collared Honeycreeper. A female Andean Cock-of-the-Rock put in an appearance, and Lineated Woodpecker was new for the tour.
We ate an early picnic lunch beside one of the spectacular waterfalls that plunges down alongside the new Loja-Zamora road, and then spent the afternoon driving to Cuenca, climbing to over 3000 m on the way. We arrived in the historic city (a World Heritage site) in the late afternoon with time to look around the city center, dominated by the imposing New Cathedral and pleasant central plaza. The hotel where we stayed, the Inca Real, occupies a historic 19th c. colonial building whose rooms open onto several elaborately decorated interior courtyards. For dinner Edison took us to a well known establishment by the cathedral, and we tried some of the local specialty dishes.
Friday 02 March
El Cajas NP, located about 30 minutes from central Cuenca, doesn’t open until 8 a.m., so we had a later-than-usual breakfast before embarking on our last morning of birding. We climbed first to the Lake Toreadora Visitor’s Center at an elevation close to 13,000’, and then continued a short distance further up the road to a small stand of Polylepis forest. Here Tit-like Dacnis and Blue-mantled Thornbill were both conspicuous, and it did not take long before we found the locally endemic Violet-throated Metaltail, as well as Ecuadorian Hillstar, Cinereous Conebill, Black Flowerpiercer and Many-striped Canastero. A small lake held Andean Teal and Andean Ruddy Duck, and both Chestnut-winged and Stout-billed Cinclodes foraged along the shore. We then returned to Lake Toreadora where with a little bit of effort Edison managed to produce a pair of Giant Conebills. Other new species we saw here were Andean Tit-Spinetail, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Plain-colored Seedeater, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, Grass Wren, and several bold Tawny Antpittas hopping about in the open.
We ate lunch at a nice restaurant just outside the park, where the trout on the menu could be seen swimming in pools just outside the door, and then drove up and over the mountains and began the long descent into Guayaquil. The roadsides on the outskirts of the city were still flooded, and from the car we added a few more species to the trip list, namely Savanna Hawk, Purple Gallinule, Striated Heron and Great-tailed Grackle. Over a farewell dinner at an open-air restaurant on the Malecon in Guayaquil we ended the trip watching Black-Crowned Night-Herons foraging along the muddy edges of the Guayas River!
Saturday 03 March
We’d been notified yesterday that our flight time was delayed an hour, and learned this morning the reason for the schedule change: the whole airport was closed until noon to allow storm damage to the runways to be repaired. This seemed like a fitting way to end a trip that had been continually punctuated by landslides, detours and roadworks! Once we were on our way, however, the journey went smoothly, and our luggage made it home with us.
We finished the trip having seen about 410 species well, and having heard another 25 or so. There were of course some species that only Edison managed to see or hear, but all of the really great birds were seen well by all of us. We hope it’s not another 8 years before we return to this part of the world, and we’re already looking forward to visiting northern Peru or the Choco region of NW Ecuador with Sword Billed Expeditions!
Complete trip list: birds seen and heard well by Cathy and/or Paul
Gray Tinamou (Tinamus tao): 2, Copalinga
Pale-browed Tinamou (Crypturellus transfasciatus): 1, Saucillo
Horned Screamer (Anhima cornuta): 3, Guayas
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis): Guayas, several along roads
Fulvous Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna bicolor): Guayas, several along roads
Andean Teal (Anas andium): 3, El Cajas,
Ruddy Duck (Oxyura jamaicensis): 1, El Cajas
Rufous-headed Chachalaca (Ortalis erythroptera): 5, Buenaventura
Speckled Chachalaca (Ortalis guttata): 6, Copalinga
Bearded Guan (Penelope barbata): 1, Cajanuma; 1, Tapichalaca
Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus): 1, Buenaventura
Fasciated Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma fasciatum): 1, Buenaventura
Great Egret (Ardea alba): Guayas, along roads
Snowy Egret (Egretta thula): Guayas, along roads
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis): Guayas, along roads
Striated Heron (Butorides striata): 1, Guayas
Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax): 3, Guayas
Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus): common, seen most days
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura): common, seen most days
Gray-headed Kite (Leptodon cayanensis): 1, Buenaventura
Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus): 5+, Buenaventura,; 8, Jorupe; 1, Guayas
Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis): Guayas, a few along roads
Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea): 1, Buenaventura
Gray-backed Hawk (Leucopternis occidentalis): 3, Buenaventura; 2, Jorupe
Savanna Hawk (Buteogallus meridionalis): 2, Guayas
Harris's Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus): 2, Guayas
Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris): common, a few seen on about half the days
Variable Hawk (Buteo polyosoma): 4, El Cajas
Crested Caracara (Caracara cheriway): 1, Guayas; 1, Buenaventura; 1, Saucillo; 1, Jorupe
Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans): 1, Jorupe
American Kestrel (Falco sparverius): 1-4 at Sta. Isabel, Cajanuma, Vallodolid, Cuenca
Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis): 1, Jorupe
Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio martinica): 2, Guayas
Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus): Guayas, a few seen along roads
Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana): Guayas, common on roadsides
Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius): 1, El Empalme
Andean Gull (Chroicocephalus serranus): 2, El Cajas
Rock Pigeon (Columba livia): seen in most towns
Pale-vented Pigeon (Patagioenas cayennensis): 4, Guayas
Band-tailed Pigeon (Patagioenas fasciata): common at high-elevation sites
Ruddy Pigeon (Patagioenas subvinacea): 1, Buenaventura
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove (Columbina buckleyi): a few at Cerro Blanco, Utuana, Catamayo, Guayaquil
Croaking Ground-Dove (Columbina cruziana): 1, Catamayo
White-tipped Dove (Leptotila verreauxi): 1-3, Buenaventura, Jorupe, Catamayo (heard often)
Gray-fronted Dove (Leptotila rufaxilla): 2, Bombuscaro (heard often)
White-throated Quail-Dove (Geotrygon frenata): 2, Tapichalaca
Golden-plumed Parakeet (Leptosittaca branickii): 4-6, Tapichalaca
El Oro Parakeet (Pyrrhura orcesi): 5, Buenaventura
White-breasted Parakeet (Pyrrhura albipectus): 12, Tapichalaca; 6, Bombuscaro
Red-masked Parakeet (Aratinga erythrogenys): 6+, Cerro Blanco, Jorupe
Pacific Parrotlet (Forpus coelestis): 4, Cerro Blanco
Gray-cheeked Parakeet (Brotogeris pyrrhoptera): small flocks at Cerro Blanco, Utuana, Jorupe
Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus): seen flying over, Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Bronze-winged Parrot (Pionus chalcopterus): seen flying over, Buenaventura
Scaly-naped Parrot (Amazona mercenaria): 2-5, Tapichalaca
Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana): 1, Bombuscaro; 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Gray-capped Cuckoo (Coccyzus lansbergi): 1, Cerro Blanco
Black-billed Cuckoo (Coccyzus erythropthalmus): 1, Cerro Blanco
Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani): 6, Copalinga
Groove-billed Ani (Crotophaga sulcirostris): common in western lowlands, often along roads
White-throated Screech-Owl (Megascops albogularis): 1, Tapichalaca
Spectacled Owl (Pulsatrix perspicillata): 1, Jorupe
Pacific Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium peruanum): 1, Jorupe
Rufous-bellied Nighthawk (Lurocalis rufiventris): 3, Tapichalaca
Common Pauraque (yctidromus albicollis): 1, Cerro Blanco (heard at Jorupe, Copalinga)
Band-winged Nightjar (Caprimulgus longirostris): 2, Yunquilla
Blackish Nightjar (Caprimulgus nigrescens): 1, Bombuscaro
Common Potoo (Nyctibius griseus): 1, Cerro Blanco
White-collared Swift (Streptoprocne zonaris): seen at Sta. Isabel, Jorupe, Vallodolid, Cuenca
Gray-rumped Swift (Chaetura cinereiventris): 10+, Buenaventura, Copalinga
White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora): very common at Buenaventura
White-tipped Sicklebill (Eutoxeres aquila): 1, Buenaventura
Band-tailed Barbthroat (Threnetes ruckeri): 1, Buenaventura
White-whiskered Hermit (Phaethornis yaruqui): 2, Buenaventura
Green Hermit (Phaethornis guy): 2, Copalinga
Baron’s Hermit (Phaethornis baroni): 1, Cerro Blanco
Brown Violetear (Colibri delphinae): common at Buenaventura
Sparkling Violetear (Colibri coruscans): 2, Copalinga
Amethyst-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus amethysticollis): Cajanuma; common at Tapichalaca
Tourmaline Sunangel (Heliangelus exortis): 1, Tapichalaca
Flame-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus micraster): Cajanuma; common at Tapichalaca
Purple-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus viola): common at Utuana; 1-2, Cajanuma
Wire-crested Thorntail (Discosura popelairii): 6, Copalinga
Green Thorntail (Discosura conversii): common at Buenaventura
Spangled Coquette (Lophornis stictolophus): 3, Copalinga
Ecuadorian Piedtail (Phlogophilus hemileucurus): 2, Bombuscaro
Speckled Hummingbird (Adelomyia melanogenys): common at Utuana; 1, Tapichalaca
Long-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus kingi): 3+, Tapichalaca
Violet-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus coelestis): 2, Buenaventura
Ecuadorian Hillstar (Oreotrochilus chimborazo): 2, El Cajas
Purple-backed Thornbill (Ramphomicron microrhynchum): 1, Cajanuma
Rufous-capped Thornbill (Chalcostigma ruficeps): 2, Tapichalaca
Blue-mantled Thornbill (Chalcostigma stanleyi): common at El Cajas
Tyrian Metaltail (Metallura tyrianthina): 3, Tapichalaca
Violet-throated Metaltail (Metallura baroni): 1, El Cajas
Bronzy Inca (Coeligena coeligena): 3, Tapichalaca
Collared Inca (Coeligena torquata): Cajanuma; common at Tapichalaca
Rainbow Starfrontlet (Coeligena iris): common at Utuana
Mountain Velvetbreast (Lafresnaya lafresnayi): 1, Tapichalaca
Chestnut-breasted Coronet (Boissonneaua matthewsii): very common at Tapichalaca
Fawn-breasted Brilliant (Heliodoxa rubinoides): 3-4, Buenaventura; common at Tapichalaca
Green-crowned Brilliant (Heliodoxa jacula): common at Buenaventura
Violet-fronted Brilliant (Heliodoxa leadbeateri): 1, Vallodolid; common at Copalinga
Long-billed Starthroat (Heliomaster longirostris): 1, Buenaventura
White-bellied Woodstar (Chaetocercus mulsant): 1, Tapichalaca
Blue-tailed Emerald (Chlorostilbon mellisugus): 1, Copalinga
Violet-headed Hummingbird (Klais guimeti): common at Copalinga
Emerald-bellied Woodnymph (Thalurania hypochlora): 2-3, Buenaventura
Fork-tailed Woodnymph (Thalurania furcata): 2-3, Copalinga
Amazilia Hummingbird (Amazilia amazilia): 3-4, Cerro Blanco, Yunquilla, Jorupe
Andean Emerald (Amazilia franciae): common at Buenaventura; 1, Vallodolid
Glittering-throated Emerald (Amazilia fimbriata): 3-4, Copalinga
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird (Amazilia tzacatl): common at Buenaventura
Golden-tailed Sapphire (Chrysuronia oenone): 2-3, Copalinga
Violet-bellied Hummingbird (Damophila julie): common at Buenaventura
Golden-headed Quetzal (Pharomachrus auriceps): 3, Tapichalaca
Ecuadorian Trogon (Trogon mesurus): 1, Cerro Blanco; 4+, Jorupe
Gartered Trogon (Trogon caligatus): 2, Buenaventura
Black-throated Trogon (Trogon rufus): 1, Cerro Blanco
Whooping Motmot (Momotus subrufescens): 2, Jorupe
Highland Motmot (Momotus aequatorialis): 1, Bombuscaro
Rufous Motmot (Baryphthengus martii): 2, Buenaventura
Broad-billed Motmot (Electron platyrhynchum): 2, Buenaventura (adult with fledgling)
Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata): 6, Guayas
Barred Puffbird (Nystalus radiatus): 1, Buenaventura
Black-streaked Puffbird (Malacoptila fulvogularis): 1, Bombuscaro
Lanceolated Monklet (Micromonacha lanceolata): 1, Bombuscaro
Coppery-chested Jacamar (Galbula pastazae): 2, Bombuscaro; 1, Copalinga
Red-headed Barbet (Eubucco bourcierii): 2, Bombuscaro; 2, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan (Andigena hypoglauca): 1, Cajanuma
Pale-mandibled Aracari (Pteroglossus erythropygius): 3, Buenaventura
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan (Ramphastos swainsonii): 8+, Buenaventura
Choco Toucan (Ramphastos brevis): 1, Buenaventura
Lafresnaye's Piculet (Picumnus lafresnayi): 1, Tapichalaca; 1, Copalinga; 2, Bombuscaro
Ecuadorian Piculet (Picumnus sclateri): 1, Jorupe; 1, El Empalme
Black-cheeked Woodpecker (Melanerpes pucherani): 1, Cerro Blanco
Smoky-brown Woodpecker (Picoides fumigatus): 1, Yunquilla; 2, Bombuscaro
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker (Veniliornis callonotus): 2, Cerro Blanco; 1, Jorupe; 1, El Empalme
Yellow-vented Woodpecker (Veniliornis dignus): 1, Tapichalaca
Golden-olive Woodpecker (Colaptes rubiginosus): 1, Cerro Blanco
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker (Colaptes rivolii): 1, Yunquilla; 2, Cajanuma; 2, Tapichalaca
Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Stout-billed Cinclodes (Cinclodes excelsior): common at El Cajas
Chestnut-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes albidiventris): common at El Cajas
Pacific Hornero (Furnarius cinnamomeus): common in west, often seen along roads
Andean Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura andicola): 2, El Cajas
Azara's Spinetail (Synallaxis azarae): 1, Yunquilla; heard frequently at high elevation sites
Dark-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albigularis): 1, Copalinga
Blackish-headed Spinetail (Synallaxis tithys): 1, Jorupe
Ash-browed Spinetail (Cranioleuca curtata): 1, Tapichalaca; 1-2, Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Line-cheeked Spinetail (Cranioleuca antisiensis): 1, Yunquilla; 2, Utuana
Many-striped Canastero (Asthenes flammulata): 1, El Cajas
Rufous-fronted Thornbird (Phacellodomus rufifrons): 3, Vallodolid
Mouse-colored Thistletail (Asthenes griseomurina): 1, Tapichalaca
Equatorial Graytail (Xenerpestes singularis): 1, Bombuscaro
Pearled Treerunner (Margarornis squamiger): 2, Tapichalaca; 1, El Cajas
Pacific Tuftedcheek (Pseudocolaptes johnsoni): 2, Buenaventura
Streaked Tuftedcheek (Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii): 1, Tapichalaca
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia variegaticeps): 4, Buenaventura
Montane Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia striaticollis): 2+, Tapichalaca, Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner (Hylocryptus erythrocephalus): 2, Jorupe
Plain Xenops (Xenops minutus): 2, Buenaventura; 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Streaked Xenops (Xenops rutilans): 1-2, Cerro Blanco, Buenaventura, Tapichalaca, old Loja-Zamora Rd
Plain-brown Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla fuliginosa): 2, Buenaventura
Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus): 1-2, Buenaventura, Tapichalaca, old Loja-Zamora Rd
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper (Glyphorynchus spirurus): 1, Buenaventura, Bombuscaro, old Loja-ZamoraRd
Strong-billed Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus): 1, Jorupe
Spotted Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus erythropygius): 3, Buenaventura
Streak-headed Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes souleyetii): 2, Cerro Blanco
Montane Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger): 2, Tapichalaca
Chapman's Antshrike (Thamnophilus zarumae): 2, Utuana
Lined Antshrike (Thamnophilus tenuepunctatus): 2, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Collared Antshrike (Thamnophilus bernardi): 1, Cerro Blanco
Western Slaty-Antshrike (Thamnophilus atrinucha): 2, Buenaventura
Uniform Antshrike (Thamnophilus unicolor): 1, Buenaventura
Foothill Antwren (Epinecrophylla spodionota): 1, Bombuscaro
Slaty Antwren (Myrmotherula schisticolor): 2, Buenaventura
Yellow-breasted Antwren (Herpsilochmus axillaris): 1, Bombuscaro; 2, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Blackish Antbird (Cercomacra nigrescens): 1, Bombuscaro
Jocotoco Antpitta (Grallaria ridgelyi): 3, Tapichalaca
Chestnut-naped Antpitta (Grallaria nuchalis): 1, Tapichalaca (heard frequently)
Rufous Antpitta (Grallaria rufula): 1, Cajanuma
Tawny Antpitta (Grallaria quitensis): 2, El Cajas
Ocellated Tapaculo (Acropternis orthonyx): 1, Tapichalaca
Ash-colored Tapaculo (Myornis senilis): 1, Tapichalaca
Northern White-crowned Tapaculo (Scytalopus atratus): 1, Copalinga
Chusquea Tapaculo (Scytalopus parkeri): 1, Cajanuma; 3, Tapichalaca
Elegant Crescentchest (Melanopareia elegans): 1, Cerro Blanco
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet (Camptostoma obsoletum): 1-3,Cerro Blanco, Saucillo, Jorupe, Vallodolid
White-tailed Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus poecilocercus): 1, Tapichalaca
White-banded Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus stictopterus): 2, Cajanuma
Rufous-winged Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus calopterus): 1, Yunquilla
Black-crested Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes nigrocristatus): 2, Utuana
Pacific Elaenia (Myiopagis subplacens): common at Cerro Blanco, Buenaventura, Jorupe
Yellow-bellied Elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster): 1, Vallodolid
White-crested Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps): 1, Utuana
Mottle-backed Elaenia (Elaenia gigas): 1, Vallodolid; 1, Copalinga
Highland Elaenia (Elaenia obscura): 2, Tapichalaca
Sierran Elaenia (Elaenia pallatangae): 1, Tapichalaca
Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea): 1, Vallodolid
Streak-necked Flycatcher (Mionectes striaticollis): 1, Cajanuma
Olive-striped Flycatcher (Mionectes olivaceus): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Slaty-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon superciliaris): 1-2, Buenaventura, Copalinga, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant (Phylloscartes ophthalmicus): common at Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant (Phylloscartes orbitalis): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Ecuadorian Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes gualaquizae): 1-3, Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Black-capped Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias nigrocapillus): 2, Tapichalaca
Red-billed Tyrannulet (Zimmerius cinereicapilla): 1, Bombuscaro
Golden-faced Tyrannulet (Zimmerius chrysops): 2, Copalinga
Loja Tyrannulet (Zimmerius flavidifrons): 2, Buenaventura
Ornate Flycatcher (Myiotriccus ornatus): conspicuous at Buenaventura and Bombuscaro
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant (Euscarthmus meloryphus): 1, Sta. Isabel; 1, Saucillo
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant (Lophotriccus pileatus): 1, Buenaventura (heard frequently)
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus granadensis): 1, Tapichalaca
Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher (Poecilotriccus ruficeps): 1, Tapichalaca
Golden-winged Tody-Flycatcher (Poecilotriccus calopterus): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum): common (Buenaventura, Vallodolid, Copalinga)
Fulvous-breasted Flatbill (Rhynchocyclus fulvipectus): 2, Bombuscaro
Yellow-olive Flycatcher (Tolmomyias sulphurescens): 2, Cerro Blanco
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher (Terenotriccus erythrurus): 1, Bombuscaro
Cinnamon Flycatcher (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus): 1, Cajanuma; 2, Tapichalaca
Cliff Flycatcher (Hirundinea ferruginea): 2, Zamora
Orange-banded Flycatcher (Nephelomyias lintoni): 1-2, Tapichalaca
Bran-colored Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus): 1, Yunquilla; 1, Buenaventura; 1, Jorupe
Gray-breasted Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus griseipectus): 1, Jorupe
Olive-sided Flycatcher (Contopus cooperi): 1, Buenaventura
Eastern Wood-Pewee (Contopus virens): 3, Bombuscaro; 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Tumbes Pewee (Contopus punensis): 1, Saucillo
Black Phoebe (Sayornis nigricans): common near water
Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus): 1, Sta. Isabel; 1, Catamayo
Rufous-tailed Tyrant (Knipolegus poecilurus): 3, Tapichalaca
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis montanus): 1, El Cajas
Smoky Bush-Tyrant (Myiotheretes fumigatus): 1, Tapichalaca
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca diadema): 1, Tapichalaca
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris): 2, Tapichalaca
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca rufipectoralis): 1, Cajanuma; 1, Tapichalaca
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca fumicolor): 2, El Cajas
Ochraceous Attila (Attila torridus): 1, Buenaventura
Dusky-capped Flycatcher (Myiarchus tuberculifer): 1-2, Yunquilla, Buenaventura, Utuana, Copalinga
Sooty-crowned Flycatcher (Myiarchus phaeocephalus): 1, Cerro Blanco
Pale-edged Flycatcher (Myiarchus cephalotes): 1, Tapichalaca
Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua): 1, Cerro Blanco; 1, Jorupe
Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis): common, 1-2 seen at most low elevation sites
Lemon-browed Flycatcher (Conopias cinchoneti): 1, Bombuscaro
Golden-crowned Flycatcher (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus): 2, Bombuscaro
Baird's Flycatcher (Myiodynastes bairdii): 1, Suacillo
Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus): 1, Cerro Banco; 1, Jorupe
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus): common everywhere, especially along roads
Green-and-black Fruiteater (Pipreola riefferii): 1, Cajanuma; 2, Tapichalaca
Barred Fruiteater (Pipreola arcuata): 1, Cajanuma
Red-crested Cotinga (Ampelion rubrocristatus): 2, Utuana
Chestnut-crested Cotinga (Ampelion rufaxilla): 2, Tapichalaca
Andean Cock-of-the-rock (Rupicola peruvianus): 3, Bombuscaro; 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Amazonian Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus ornatus): 2, Bombuscaro
Long-wattled Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus penduliger): 2, Buenaventura
Dusky Piha (Lipaugus fuscocinereus): 1, Tapichalaca
Blue-rumped Manakin (Lepidothrix isidorei): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Masked Tityra (Tityra semifasciata): 1, Bombuscaro
Barred Becard (Pachyramphus versicolor): 2, Tapichalaca
Slaty Becard (Pachyramphus spodiurus): 1, Jorupe
Black-and-white Becard (Pachyramphus albogriseus): 2, Cerro Blanco; 2, Jorupe
One-colored Becard (Pachyramphus homochrous): 1, Buenaventura; 3, Jorupe
Brown-capped Vireo (Vireo leucophrys): 1, Yunquilla; 2, Utuana; 1, Tapichalaca
Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus): abundant at Cerro Blanco
Olivaceous Greenlet (Hylophilus olivaceus): 2, Bombuscaro; 2, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo (Vireolanius leucotis): 2, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis): 2, Yunquilla; 2-3, Vallodolid
Turquoise Jay (Cyanolyca turcosa): small groups at Yunquilla, Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Inca Jay (Cyanocorax yncas): groups of 4-6, Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
White-tailed Jay (Cyanocorax mystacalis): 3, Cerro Blanco; 3-4, Jorupe; 1, El Empalme
Blue-and-white Swallow (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca): common everywhere
Brown-bellied Swallow (Orochelidon murina): a few in Cuenca
White-banded Swallow (Atticora fasciata): 2-3, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis): common at Buenaventura, Vallodolid
Gray-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea): common in western lowlands
Chestnut-collared Swallow (Petrochelidon rufocollaris): 4-6, village near Sozoranga
Fasciated Wren (Campylorhynchus fasciatus): common at Cerro Blanco, Buenaventura, Jorupe
Gray-mantled Wren (Odontorchilus branickii): 1, Bombuscaro; 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Rufous Wren (Cinnycerthia unirufa): 2, Cajanuma; 5, Tapichalaca
Plain-tailed Wren (Pheugopedius euophrys): 2, Tapichalaca (heard there and at Cajanuma)
Speckle-breasted Wren (Pheugopedius sclateri): 1, Cerro Blanco; 1, Buenaventura (heard at Jorupe)
Bay Wren (Cantorchilus nigricapillus): common at Buenaventura
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon): common at Cerro Blanco, Buenaventura, Jorupe, Vallodolid
Mountain Wren (Troglodytes solstitialis): 1, Tapichalaca
Grass Wren (Cistothorus platensis): 2, El Cajas
Song Wren (Cyphorhinus phaeocephalus): 1, Buenaventura
Tropical Gnatcatcher (Polioptila plumbea): common, Cerro Blanco, Buenaventura, Saucillo, Catamayo
Andean Solitaire (Myadestes ralloides): 3, Buenaventura; 1, Tapichalaca
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush (Catharus fuscater): 1, Yunquilla (many heard)
Swainson's Thrush (Catharus ustulatus): 3, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Plumbeous-backed Thrush (Turdus reevei): 1, Saucillo; common at Jorupe
Pale-vented Thrush (Turdus obsoletus): 2, Buenaventura
Ecuadorian Thrush (Turdus maculirostris): common at Cerro Blanco, Buenaventura, Jorupe
Black-billed Thrush (Turdus ignobilis): 2, old Loja-Zamora Rd. (heard at Copalinga)
Marañon Thrush (Turdus maranonicus): 2, Vallodolid
Great Thrush (Turdus fuscater): common at all high elevation sites
Glossy-black Thrush (Turdus serranus): 2-3, Buenaventura, Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Long-tailed Mockingbird (Mimus longicaudatus): common along roads in SW
Tropical Parula (Parula pitiayumi): common, Cerro Blanco, Buenaventura, Tapichalaca, Bombuscaro
Blackburnian Warbler (Dendroica fusca): common, Buenaventura, Vallodolid, Bombuscaro
Cerulean Warbler (Dendroica cerulea): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Canada Warbler (Wilsonia canadensis): common at Bombuscaro and old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Slate-throated Redstart (Myioborus miniatus): common, seen at most sites
Spectacled Redstart (Myioborus melanocephalus): common at Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Gray-and-gold Warbler (Basileuterus fraseri): 1, Cerro Blanco; very common at Jorupe
Citrine Warbler (Basileuterus luteoviridis): 2, Tapichalaca
Black-crested Warbler (Basileuterus nigrocristatus): 1, Yunquilla; 3+, Utuana
Three-striped Warbler (Basileuterus tristriatus): 3, Tapichalaca
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola): common at Buenaventura, Copalinga, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Black-faced Tanager (Schistochlamys melanopis): 1, Vallodolid
Magpie Tanager (Cissopis leverianus): 3+, Copalinga, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Black-and-white Tanager (Conothraupis speculigera): 3, Saucillo
Black-capped Hemispingus (Hemispingus atropileus): 3, Cajanuma
Oleaginous Hemispingus (Hemispingus frontalis): 2, Tapichalaca
Black-headed Hemispingus (Hemispingus verticalis): 3+, Tapichalaca
Gray-hooded Bush -Tanager (Cnemoscopus rubrirostris): 1, Tapichalaca
Rufous-chested Tanager (Thlypopsis ornata): 1, Yunquilla
Chestnut-vented Conebill (Conirostrum speciosum): 3, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Cinereous Conebill (Conirostrum cinereum): 2, El Cajas
Blue-backed Conebill (Conirostrum sitticolor): 2-3, Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Capped Conebill (Conirostrum albifrons): 2, Tapichalaca
Giant Conebill (Oreomanes fraseri): 2, El Cajas
Tit-like Dacnis (Xenodacnis parina): 5+, El Cajas
Plushcap (Catamblyrhynchus diadema): 2, Tapichalaca
Common Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus ophthalmicus): 3+, Buenaventura
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus flavigularis): common, Buenaventura, Bombuscaro
Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus canigularis): 2-3, Buenaventura, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Guira Tanager (Hemithraupis guira): 4+, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
White-shouldered Tanager (Tachyphonus luctuosus): 2-3, Buenaventura; 1, Vallodolid
White-lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus): common at Copalinga
Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo): common at Copalinga, Vallodolid, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Lemon-rumped Tanager (Ramphocelus icteronotus): very common at Buenaventura
Blue-gray Tanager (Thraupis episcopus): common at all low elevation sites
Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum): 1, Vallodolid, 3+, Copalinga
Blue-capped Tanager (Thraupis cyanocephala): 5+, Utuana, Tapichalaca
Hooded Mountain-Tanager (Buthraupis montana): 2, Cajanuma
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus lacrymosus): 3+, Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus somptuosus): 2, Yunquilla; 1, Tapichalaca
Grass-green Tanager (Chlorornis riefferii): 2, Cajanuma; 2, Tapichalaca
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager (Dubusia taeniata): 1, Tapichalaca
Golden-crowned Tanager (Iridosornis rufivertex): 1, Cajanuma; 5+, Tapichalaca
Fawn-breasted Tanager (Pipraeidea melanonota): 2, Buenaventura
Orange-eared Tanager (Chlorochrysa calliparaea): 3+, old Loja-Zamora Rd., Bombuscaro
Paradise Tanager (Tangara chilensis): 8+, old Loja-Zamora Rd., Bombuscaro
Green-and-gold Tanager (Tangara schrankii): 5+, old Loja-Zamora Rd., Bombuscaro
Golden Tanager (Tangara arthus): common in mixed flocks, Buenaventura, Bombuscaro
Silver-throated Tanager (Tangara icterocephala): 4+, Buenaventura
Saffron-crowned Tanager (Tangara xanthocephala): 2, Tapichalaca
Golden-eared Tanager (Tangara chrysotis): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Flame-faced Tanager (Tangara parzudakii): 2, Tapichalaca
Yellow-bellied Tanager (Tangara xanthogastra): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Spotted Tanager (Tangara punctata): common in mixed flocks, Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Bay-headed Tanager (Tangara gyrola): common in mixed flocks, Buenaventura, Bombuscaro
Golden-naped Tanager (Tangara ruficervix): 1, Tapichalaca
Metallic-green Tanager (Tangara labradorides): 1, Tapichalaca
Blue-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanicollis): common in mixed flocks, Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Beryl-spangled Tanager (Tangara nigroviridis): 1, Tapichalaca
Blue-and-black Tanager (Tangara vassorii): 2-3, Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Silver-backed Tanager (Tangara viridicollis): 2, Vallodolid; 2, Tapichalaca
Black-faced Dacnis (Dacnis lineata): 1, Copalinga; 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Yellow-tufted Dacnis (Dacnis egregia): 1, Buenaventura
Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana): 2, Copalinga; 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza): common at feeders, Buenaventura, Copalinga
Golden-collared Honeycreeper (Iridophanes pulcherrimus): 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Swallow Tanager (Tersina viridis): 4, Copalinga; 2, Bombuscaro
Streaked Saltator (Saltator striatipectus): 1-2, Cerro Blanco, Saucillo, Jorupe, Vallodolid
Grayish Saltator (Saltator coerulescens): 2, Copalinga
Black-cowled Saltator (Saltator nigriceps): 2, Utuana
Buff-throated Saltator (Saltator maximus): 2, Buenaventura; 1, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus unicolor): 5+, El Cajas
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus plebejus): 2, Catamayo; seen along roads in south
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus alaudinus): 1, Catamayo
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina): 2, Buenaventura; 2-4, Saucilllo
Variable Seedeater (Sporophila corvina): 1, Cerro Blanco; 2, Buenaventura; 2+, Saucillo
Yellow-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila nigricollis): common at Buenaventura, Vallodolid
Parrot-billed Seedeater (Sporophila peruviana): 4, Saucillo
Lesser Seed-Finch (Oryzoborus funereus): 1, Buenaventura
Plain-colored Seedeater (Catamenia inornata): 2, El Cajas
Dull-colored Grassquit (Tiaris obscurus): 3, Yunquilla; 1, Vallodolid
Glossy Flowerpiercer (Diglossa lafresnayii): 2, Tapichalaca
Black Flowerpiercer (Diglossa humeralis): 2, El Cajas
White-sided Flowerpiercer (Diglossa albilatera): common at Utuana, Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Masked Flowerpiercer (Diglossa cyanea): common at Buenaventura, Utuana, Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Saffron Finch (Sicalis flaveola): common in west
Crimson-breasted Finch (Rhodospingus cruentus): 4, Saucillo
Olive Finch (Arremon castaneiceps): 1, Tapichalaca
Orange-billed Sparrow (Arremon aurantiirostris): 1, Buenaventura; 1, Copalinga
Black-capped Sparrow (Arremon abeillei): 1, Cerro Blanco; 2, Jorupe
Stripe-headed Brush-Finch (Arremon torquatus): 1, Yunquilla
Pale-naped Brush-Finch (Atlapetes pallidinucha): 2, Tapichalaca
Rufous-naped (Yellow-breasted) Brush-Finch (Atlapetes latinuchus): common at Cajanuma, Tapichalaca
Pale-headed Brush-Finch (Atlapetes pallidiceps): 1, Yunquilla
Tumbes Sparrow (Rhynchospiza stolzmanni): 1, Catamayo
Yellow-browed Sparrow (Ammodramus aurifrons): 2, Copalinga
Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis): a few at Buenaventura, Utuana, Cajanuma, Vallodolid
Hepatic Tanager (Piranga hepatica): 1, Utuana
Summer Tanager (Piranga rubra): 2, Buenaventura; 2, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Southern Yellow Grosbeak (Pheucticus chrysogaster): common at low elevation sites in west
Peruvian Meadowlark (Sturnella bellicosa): 2, Sta. Isabel; 2, Catamayo
Scrub Blackbird (Dives warszewiczi): common at all western sites
Great-tailed Grackle (Quiscalus mexicanus): 1, Guayas
White-edged Oriole (Icterus graceannae): 2, El Empalme
Yellow-tailed Oriole (Icterus mesomelas): 3-4, Jorupe
Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela): common at Cerro Blanco
Russet-backed Oropendola (Psarocolius angustifrons): a few at Copalinga, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus): common, Copalinga, Bombuscaro, old Loja-Zamora Rd.
Chestnut-headed Oropendola (Psarocolius wagleri): 1, Buenaventura
Thick-billed Euphonia (Euphonia laniirostris): common at Cerro Blanco, Jorupe
Bronze-green Euphonia (Euphonia mesochrysa): 2, Bombuscaro
Orange-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster): common at Buenaventura, low elevation in east
Hooded Siskin (Spinus magellanicus): 2, Yunquilla
Olivaceous Siskin (Spinus olivaceus): 1, Tapichalaca
Heard only:
Crested Guan (Penelope purpurascens): Buenaventura
Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail (Odontophorus erythrops): Buenaventura
Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail (Odontophorus speciosus): Bombuscaro
Plumbeous Pigeon (Patagioenas plumbea): Bombuscaro
Maroon-chested Ground-Dove (Claravis mondetoura): Tapichalaca
Ochre-bellied Dove (Leptotila ochraceiventris): Saucillo
Band-bellied Owl (Pulsatrix melanota): Copalinga
Western Woodhaunter (Hyloctistes subulatus): Buenaventura
Black-billed Treehunter (Thripadectes melanorhynchus): Bombuscaro
Chestnut-backed Antbird (Myrmeciza exsul): Buenaventura
Esmeraldas Antbird (Myrmeciza nigricauda): Buenaventura
Barred Antthrush (Chamaeza mollissima): Tapichalaca
Plain-backed Antpitta (Grallaria haplonota): Bombuscaro
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta (Grallaria ruficapilla): Yunquilla, Utuana
Watkins's Antpitta (Grallaria watkinsi): Jorupe
Slate-crowned Antpitta (Grallaricula nana): Tapichalaca
Blackish Tapaculo (Scytalopus latrans): Utuana
Foothill Elaenia (Myiopagis olallai): Bombuscaro
Thrush-like Schiffornis (Schiffornis turdina): Buenaventura
Sepia-brown Wren (Cinnycerthia olivascens): Tapichalaca
Whiskered Wren (Pheugopedius mystacalis): Buenaventura
Superciliated Wren (Cantorchilus superciliaris): Cerro Blanco
White-breasted Wood-Wren (Henicorhina leucosticta): Bombuscaro
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren (Henicorhina leucophrys): Buenaventura, Tapichalaca