Top Ten Tour Highlights:
1. Red-billed Streamertail
2. Jamaican Tody
3. Crested Quail-Dove
4. Jamaican Owl
5. Rufous-throated Solitaire
6. Jamaican Blackbird
7. Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo
8. Vervain Hummingbird
9. Jamaican Mango
10. Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo
Tour Intro
Jamaica is unique. With mixed roots dating back to West Africa, Britain, Spain, and South America, it is truly a melting pot, though one might not be exposed to this during a visit to one of the all-inclusive resorts and spas that Jamaica is most known for. Many of the employees at these resort establishments, for example, are recent immigrants from Asia. Much of the revenue from these colossal Hotels goes abroad to Europe and the Americas. No, the real Jamaica is in the countryside, among the coffee growers, cattle ranchers, cane plantations, and those fine individuals that have sought out a living by delighting visitors, such as us, with warm hospitality, delicious local cuisine, and access to this Island Nation’s wonderful avifauna.
Thus, the focus of our itinerary was to enjoy all that Jamaica has to offer, from off the trodden path. Luckily, many coffee plantations in the high mountains practice true shade-grown techniques. Many leave huge tracts of forest intact, to increase rainfall over the crops and maintain soil integrity. A few have tapped into the resource of eco-tourism, under which our auspices fell, to offset any revenues lost in keeping this lush island as green as possible. Jamaica’s people, on the whole, are not rich. But what they lack in resources they make up for in flair and hospitality. Jamaica’s legendary cuisine, which we enjoyed fine examples of daily, is evidence of this. Our accommodations were superb, with lovely, helpful staff attending our interests and whims. Truly, Jamaica is a place to come relax, and relish in whatever your interests may be.
Birding in Jamaica was great! We had a wonderful time searching out the endemics and near-endemics. Nearly all of our targets (save Greater Antillean Elaenia) surrendered fabulous scope views, too-close-to-focus views, and endless photography opportunities for our crew! Something nearly unheard of in mainland neotropical birding: we took afternoons off on occasion…we had seen it all and wanted a swim!!! It was truly an outstanding, relaxing, vibrant tour covering all aspects of the island in a rural, Jamaican, way.
Tour Summary
Our adventure began in the capital city of Kingston, from which we soon departed. A bustling city (more metropolitan than any of us expected), Kingston is home to over 30% of the entire island’s population. Our only stop here was to grab a delicious lunch on way out of town, and to view our first Kestrels, Palm-Swifts, and Kingbirds of the tour.
By mid-afternoon of our first day we were settled in at Forres Park. This was a lovely lodge owned by the same family to which the Abbey Greens Estate belongs. Abbey Greens comprised our first foray into coffee country for some fine birding along their forested roads. These allowed access to trails up higher into the Blue Mountains for special species. Setting out from Forres Park, we also birded the Old Mine Road and the area right behind the lodge. We were able to score a wide array of species by birding these few areas, all relatively near to the lodge! Some of the wonderful avian encounters included our first Red-billed Streamertails, which quickly became the crowd favorite. Near second, though voted first by some, was the exquisite Jamaican Tody. We called in several of these lovely creatures, which we were able to photograph, video, and enjoy at our leisure. Our first run-ins with Orangequit, Jamaican Woodpecker, Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo, and Jamaican Elaenia were also very exciting. We would see more of these in the future. We got great views, after a couple separate attempts, at the Jamaican Owl pair residing just behind the lodge. Though they were not vocalizing during our stay, they eventually put on a great show for us! The star, however, of these few days was certainly the Crested Quail-Dove. We saw no fewer than 4 individuals!!! Though all looks were fairly close, the best view was, perhaps, when we had one in full frame through the telescope. What a gorgeous bird! White-chinned and White-eyed Thrushes were numerous in their habitats. Sad and Rufous-tailed Flycatcher was easily found, as well. Jamaican and Blue Mountain Vireos were singing, and responsive, as were male Vervain Hummingbirds. The latter were found on their conspicuous perches, singing away. They elicited an amazing volume for such a tiny, tiny bird!
Before leaving the high elevations of the Blue Mountains, we spent a morning at Hardwar Gap, perhaps the best site in the country for Jamaican Blackbird. It produced! We had fine looks at three pairs of Jamaican Blackbirds!!! All were close, mostly eye-level views, as they foraged and belted out their bizarre songs. We also had our best views of Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo and Rufous-throated Solitaire of the trip. The solitaire frequented a fruiting tree next to the road, and we were able to watch it at length. Ring-tailed Pigeons were abundant at this elevation and Jamaican Becards were nest building. Jamaican Euphonias were belting forth song, making them easier to see here than elsewhere. Jamaican Spindalis seemed to be everywhere, leisurely feeding on tree fruits.
One of the advantages of any tour in the Caribbean during Spring is migration. We benefited from good weather, including a cold front that brought North winds. Such winds, if strong enough, ground northward migrating birds. We had spectacular groups of Warblers! 15 species were recorded, with plenty of Cape May, Prairie, and Black-throated Greens mixed in with the more ubiquitous Northern Parula, American Redstart, Black-and-White, and Black-throated Blue Warblers. The more skulky warblers were tough, but the Northern and the Louisiana Waterthrush, Ovenbird, and Worm-eating Warbler were all in evidence. Any North American birder will tell you that the prize of North American Warblers is the habitat-restricted, extremely secretive, Swainson’s Warbler. We had 3 separate individuals on this tour! Though not as flashy a one of the wood warbler, the most surprising migrant of the tour was one Broad-winged Hawk. According to the Jamaica Bird Society, it is a true vagrant with only a handful of records for the island.
Our next abode, Mockingbird Hill, was a highlight of the trip in simple terms of luxury. This glorious hilltop lodge, with a 180-degree view of the Caribbean from its deck, served the best cuisine of the tour and offered great birding from its manicured grounds. The birding highlights from this gorgeous venue were 2 more Jamaican Owls, and a roost site for both Caribbean Dove, and Ruddy Quail-Dove, just below the lodge!
Ecclesdown road is a must-visit for any birder in Jamaica. It is the most reliable place to see both Black-billed and Yellow-billed Parrot on the island. It is also a reliable site for the enigmatic Jamaican Crow, which ranges widely from its roosts high in the mountains to forage in this area. We enjoyed great views of these special birds as we walked the rural road through some of the best lowland forest left on the island. Our best views of Greater Antillean Bullfinch and Green-rumped Parrotlet were had on Ecclesdown, and a flyover flock of Black Swift was also an exciting surprise!
The Greencastle Estate was a truly fascinating place to bird. Founded over 250 years ago, the grounds maintain several old houses and structures dating back to when the first slaves were brought to harvest cane. Today, the estate functions as a working goat and cattle ranch that allows visitors to bird its many trails. Primary habitat here is dry, coastal, forest with access to a couple of freshwater features. It is easier to find some key species in this dry forest, rather than the lush environs we had been spending time in. These new birds included Mangrove Cuckoo (great looks at 2 responsive birds!), Yellow-shouldered Grassquit (attending a nest), Yellow-faced Grassquit, Shiny Cowbird, Cave Swallow, Caribbean Coot, Least Grebe, and more! Jamaican Mangos and Jamaican Orioles were abundant here, adding to the amazing color and life of the Estate.
While most late afternoons near Mockingbird Hill were spent at the beach, at the pool, or otherwise relaxing on the whole, for the final afternoon of the tour we scheduled a raft tour down the Rio Grande. It was an incredible experience! Floating lazily down the river, watching kingfishers, herons, and the lush vegetation float by, participants heard about and learned about the history of this interesting river. Delicious meals were prepared, riverside, to top off the experience.
Before saying our good-byes, we had one last birding hurrah. A couple hours at the Hellshire Hills, before catching our flights, yielded the two target birds we sought there: Bahama Mockingbird and Stolid Flycatcher. These birds have a fairly broad range through the West Indies, though are only common in the driest, scrubby, habitats, and therefore are limited in access. Both showed very well! Antillean Palm-Swift put in another appearance, as participants were boarding the bus to the airport. We worded our farewells to Jamaica. It was a great tour, and a wonderful time. Our local guides were knowledgable and fun, the cuisine very memorable, and we were able to enjoy all of the endemics species of the island with plenty of time to relax among these vibrant surroundings.
GREBES
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus
One family group at Greencastle
PELICANS
Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis
Several at various coastal sites
FRIGATEBIRDS
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Several at various coastal sites
HERONS EGRETS AND BITTERNS
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias
Great Egret Ardea alba
Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
[Western] Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Green Heron Butorides virescens
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
IBIS AND SPOONBILLS
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
A few surprised us at Greencastle
DUCKS GEESE AND SWANS
American Wigeon Anas americana
Blue-winged Teal Anas discors
Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris
Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis
NEW WORLD VULTURES
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
OSPREY
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
HAWKS EAGLES AND KITES
Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus
Our biggest surprise of the trip and vagrant
Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis
present in any habitat
FALCONS AND CARACARAS
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
this pale, gorgeous version of the species is common throughout
RAILS GALLINULES AND COOTS
Common Gallinule Gallinula chloropus
Loads at Greencastle Estate
American Coot Fulica americana
A few at Greencastle Estate
Caribbean Coot Fulica caribaea
A few at Greencastle Estate
AVOCETS AND STILTS
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus
JACANAS
Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa
Wonderful family group at Greenscastle
SANDPIPERS
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
GULLS
Laughing Gull Larus atricilla
TERNS
Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus
A few seen at most beach accesses
Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis
Several in the harbor at Kingston
PIGEONS AND DOVES
Rock Pigeon Columba livia
White-crowned Pigeon Patagioenas leucocephala
Numerous at lower elevations
Ring-tailed Pigeon (E) Patagioenas caribaea
Surprisingly common at most locations
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura
Only a few seen at Greencastle
Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita
Seen daily, in good numbers
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica
Seen almost daily
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina
Seen almost daily
Caribbean Dove Leptotila jamaicensis
A few on roost at Mockingbird Hill
Crested Quail-Dove (E) Geotrygon versicolor
Some 4 individuals seen wonderfully!
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana
Several at a roost, and on Ecclesdown
PARROTS
Olive-throated (Jamaican) Parakeet Aratinga nana
Small groups seen daily
Green-rumped Parrotlet Forpus passerinus
A few on Ecclesdown Road
Yellow-billed Parrot (E) Amazona collaria
Small groups seen in various places
Black-billed Parrot (E) Amazona agilis
Many seen well on Ecclesdown Road
CUCKOOS
Mangrove Cuckoo Coccyzus minor
Pairs seen at Greencastle and Hellshire
Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo (E) Coccyzus vetula
Pairs seen on three occasions
Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo (E) Coccyzus pluvialis
Great looks at Hardwar and Ecclesdown
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
OWLS
Jamaican Owl (E) Pseudoscops grammicus
Pairs at Forres Park and Mockingbird
SWIFTS
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonari
Numerous in the lowlands
Black Swift Cypseloides niger
A couple small groups in the Northeast
Antillean Palm-Swift (NE) Tachornis phoenicobia
Seen only in the Kingston environs
HUMMINGBIRDS
Jamaican Mango (E) Anthracothorax mango
Numerous at Greencastle Estate
Red-billed Streamertail (E) Trochilus polytmus
This beauty was numerous everywhere
Black-billed Streamertail (E) Trochilus scitulus
Present in small numbers in Northeast
Vervain Hummingbird (NE) Mellisuga minima
Several seen singing from perches
Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubris
KINGFISHERS
Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon
TODIES
Jamaican Tody (E) Todus todus
Seen nearly everyday and confiding
WOODPECKERS
Jamaican Woodpecker (E) Melanerpes radiolatus
Seen daily
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker Sphyrapicus varius
Rare in Jamaica, though we saw a few
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS
Jamaican Elaenia (NE) Myiopagis cotta
A few seen very, very well
Jamaican Pewee (E) Contopus pallidus
Never numerous, but always present
Loggerhead Kingbird (NE) Tyrannus caudifasciatus
Charismatic and ubiquitous
Sad Flycatcher (E) Myiarchus barbirostris
Seen at several sites
Rufous-tailed Flycatcher (E) Myiarchus validus
Several of these large flycatchers seen
Stolid Flycatcher (NE) Myiarchus stolidus
Only present at the dry Hellshire Hills
Jamaican Becard (E) Pachyramphus niger
3 pairs seen nest-building!
SWALLOWS
Bank Swallow Riparia riparia
A few at Greencastle Estate
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Cave Swallow Petrochelidon fulva
Large breeding colonies at Greencastle
MOCKINGBIRDS AND THRASHERS
Bahama Mockingbird (NE) Mimus gundlachii
Only at the dry Hellshire Hills
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos
THRUSHES
Rufous-throated Solitaire (NE) Myadestes genibarbis
A few seen very well, heard often
White-eyed Thrush (E) Turdus jamaicensis
Fairly common at high elevation
White-chinned Thrush (E) Turdus aurantius
Common at most sites
CROWS JAYS AND MAGPIES
Jamaican Crow (E) Corvus jamaicensis
A few seen and heard at Ecclesdown
VIREOS AND ALLIES
Jamaican Vireo (E) Vireo modestus
Fairly common throughout
Blue Mountain Vireo (E) Vireo osburni
Common at high elevation sites
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus
SISKINS CROSSBILLS AND ALLIES
Jamaican Euphonia (E) Euphonia jamaica
Heard daily, seen fairly often
NEW WORLD WARBLERS
Northern Parula Parula american
Numerous and ubiquitous
Cape May Warbler Dendroica tigrina
A few seen at high elevation sites
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens
This lovely bird was common throughout
Yellow-rumped Warbler Dendroica coronata
Only a couple seen
Black-throated Green Warbler Dendroica virens
Only a few seen
Prairie Warbler Dendroica discolor
Fairly common throughout
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum
Common and ubiquitous
Arrow-headed Warbler (E) Dendroica pharetra
Several seen very well, close
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
Numerous at a few sites
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
Seen in large numbers, daily
Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorum
Only seen at Abbey Green and Ecclesdown
Swainson's Warbler Limnothlypis swainsonii
Seen at Portland and Hardwar Gaps
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla
A few seen at various sites
Northern Waterthrush Seiurus noveboracensis
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas
BANANAQUIT
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
The most numerous bird of the tour
TANAGERS AND ALLIES
Jamaican Spindalis (E) Spindalis nigricephala
Many seen at various locations, beautiful!
BUNTINGS SPARROWS SEEDEATERS ALLIES
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivaceus
A few seen at Greencastle Estate
Black-faced Grassquit Tiaris bicolor
Numerous and common
Yellow-shouldered Grassquit (E) Loxipasser anoxanthus
A few seen at most sites
Orangequit (E) Euneornis campestris
Numerous in most locations
Greater Antillean Bullfinch (NE) Loxigilla violacea
Seen well in a few locations
SALTATORS CARDINALS AND ALLIES
Blue Grosbeak Passerina caerulea
Very rare in Jamaica, Greencastle
TROUPIALS AND ALLIES
Jamaican Blackbird (E) Nesopsar nigerrimus
A few pairs seen very well at Hardwar
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Seen only at Greencastle Estate
Greater Antillean Grackle (NE) Quiscalus niger
Numerous at most sites
Jamaican Oriole (NE) Icterus leucopteryx
A few seen daily
MAMMALS
Jamaican Fruit Bat Artibeus jamaicensis
REPTILES
Jamaican Turquoise Anole Anolis grahami
Jamaican Giant Anole Anolis garmani
Jamaican Gray Anole Anolis lineatopus