South Africa ( Cape and Western Cape) Namibia with brief forays in to Botswana, Zambia, 1st Dec -12th January 2011-2012

Published by Andy Adcock (andyadcock AT ntlworld.com)

Participants: Andy Adcock (UK), Anastasia Petrova (Russia)

Comments

A budget trip covering almost 13000km over six weeks in a Chevrolet Spark!

This was not a trip where we intended or expected to ‘mop up’, some species were not even targeted i.e Dune Lark. I had to make some little concessions to my non birding partner who whilst being a wildlife enthusiast, is not thrilled by chasing non descript LBJ’s, especially if they're at the end of a 200km detour.

Neither was it a trip where ever increasing day lists were the object so once certain common birds had been ‘ticked’ little effort was made to see them again, of course if they were there we looked at them. No significant diversions were made simply to add one more species to the list unless of course it was something special!

Having said that, there were some annoying and surprising omissions from the trip, Southern Black Korhaan, Wattled Starling, Karoo Eremomela, Green-capped Eremomela, Ground Woodpecker, Cape Rockjumper,Racquet-tailed Roller, Grey-rumped Swallow no Clapper Larks were seen and I couldn't believe we didn't see a single Chestnut-banded Plover, readers will no doubt notice plenty more but I think we did pretty well for an independent tour with well over 400 species recorded. This was only my third trip to Africa and I was pretty pleased with the 302 new birds we achieved.

Our aim was to see as much of Southern Africa as we reasonably could with as many birds and animals as practically possible. We had originally planned a month which we would split between South Africa and Namibia but as our mouths watered at the other possible additions to our itinerary, this four weeks became six weeks and we planned a very ambitious route. Had we underestimated the distances and road conditions, time would tell. There were some very long, full days to come.

We soon found out early in the planning stages that Africa is not cheap and so in order to save on costs we bought a tent and all the necessary equipment. We planned to use camp sites as much as we could and stay in guesthouses as a very last resort. Camp sites were not that cheap as it turned out, charges are per head not per tent as in most places but it was still considerably cheaper than taking a room. We also took a lot of our own food to cook, noodles, pasta, powdered potatoes, porridge etc, this would, we hoped, save us a lot of money. We also bought two fold down, 10L water containers which we would fill at every opportunity both to save money and in order not to run out during periods in remoter areas however, they were generally not needed but it was nice to know they were there. As it happened, water was never a real problem, only one or two places had water that was not suitable for drinking but even then it was ok to cook with so we would have been fine with just one canister.

Visas
Russian citizens need a visa to enter South Africa and don’t forget to obtain a multiple entry if you do an itinerary similar to this where you will leave and re-enter South Africa.

UK citizens don’t need a visa.
Visa on arrival is free to Russians and Brits in Namibia and Botswana.
Visa on arrival costs $25 in Zambia and $55 in Zimbabwe for Brits, Russians pay the same in Zambia but only $30 in Zimbabwe

Accommodation
On such a trip with long distances on often poor roads and the potential for unforeseen circumstances taking their toll, we were unable to be precise as to our whereabouts beyond the first couple of weeks. It was therefore impossible to book anything in advance so we just took our chances and called ahead or simply just turned up.

Popular sites i.e Etosha are best booked in advance, in fact we have since found out that this is compulsory. This is easy to do via the internet.
info@namibiareservations.com
www.namibiareservations.com

Exchange rates

We were a little lucky for once with this, when I first enquired, I was offered ZAR10.3 to the UK Pound. During the months that passed during the planning stage, this rose to over 13, a bonus indeed and this averaged out at just over ZAR12 to the Pound over the trip. Exchanging money in Africa is a time consuming business taking on average 40 minutes to complete the transaction. Every single bank note is photocopied as well as your passport.

Be aware that you can only take ZAR5000 in to South Africa, any other money must be changed on arrival.

The Namibian Dollar is pegged to the Rand and the Rand can be spent in Namibia, very useful. Namibian Dollars however, cannot be spent in South Africa.

For the Botswana leg we found that we could use Namibian or U.S Dollars in this particular area to pay for accommodation as short birding forays from Namibia are the norm here and it helps
make it very convenient.

We purchased $US for use in Zambia and Zimbabwe. We were able to pay for accommodation with U.S Dollars in Zambia but for shops etc you will need to obtain some Pula. Since the Zimbabwean currency has been de-listed for some time, U.S Dollars are used for everything.

Budget
It has to be said that we didn’t have much to spare on luxuries, or anything else for that matter. We calculated that the car, including estimated daily mileage, would cost us c£20 each per day and apart from this we allowed ourselves £30 each for everything else, it would be a challenge!

We exceeded our budget by about £300 each due in part to the costs of visiting Zimbabwe ($55 for a visa and $30 to get in to Victoria falls) and falling prey to the lure of excellent accommodation at Drotsky’s over the Christmas period and 'splashing out' on a fancy little boutique hotel on our last night in Cape Town.

Car hire
We had hoped to acquire a 4x4 but this wasn’t possible on our budget and it’s not really a necessity on the route we planned anyway, it would however be much more comfortable and considerably easier on the driver.

Note that a deposit is required when collecting the car which is not taken in advance and cannot be paid in cash. The hire company deals with cards only.

Car hire cost £928 for six weeks plus ZAR1500 payable locally for the three cross border permission letters required to take our car in to the other countries on our itinerary. These pro forma letters are a real rip off but at £50 each they were still half the price being quoted by some companies and without them you won’t be allowed to take your car out of South Africa.

In addition to the car hire and permission letters, each country levies it’s own charges upon arrival for i.e road tax. Zambia was the most expensive, a real rip off where we were forced to purchase local insurance costing over £30, $20 entry fee, £6 to the local council and another $20 'road safety levy'.

http://www.carhire3000.com

It is not possible to take a hire car in to Zimbabwe. When we took our car back, the hire company wanted to charge us for a valet service as our car was ‘dirty’. I didn’t consider the car to be unusually unclean and was able to persuade them not to charge us. Is it usual to be charged for this? I assumed that the car would go through some kind of cleaning process anyway before it was re let.

Road conditions
Often very good, often very bad! Generally the roads were probably a little worse than we had hoped they would be in the areas where we knew they were not great and taking in to account our choice of vehicle but it is certainly 'do'able' as we proved. Drive carefully on gravel especially if you have no 'off road' experience, it's an unpredictable surface particularly in a regular family car with regular road tyres. We came upon a vehicle en route to Walvis Bay with two young men inside and they had completely rolled it but both were amazingly, completely uninjured. This being said, roads are continually being improved and sections that we had thought were gravel are now paved. In some villages speed humps are employed, beware and when asking directions, a 'Robot' is what they call a set of traffic lights!

Publications used
‘Southern African Birdfinder’ Cohen et al, indispensable though must be due an update as some things have changed i.e Shakawe Lodge, Botswana has ceased to trade, Hobatere, Namibia closed due to fire, M.E.T campsite at Susuwe closed for the same reason and the road to ‘Bruce Miller’ in Choma is now tarmac. I’m sure there are other things that need updating in other countries but it is still invaluable.

SASOL Birds of Southern Africa, 4th edition, some of the illustrations can be misleading and some are simply inaccurate. ‘Birds of Africa, South of the Sahara’
Sinclair and Ryan, used for those species in Zambia which for some reason are
not covered in the above. Rather than take the whole book, I photo copied relevant pages.

‘The Kingdon field guide to African Mammals’ Jonathan Kingdon, still the standard work.

Photographs and photography
Whilst Anastasia is a wildlife enthusiast, she is not a 'full on' birder but her passion for photography proved invaluable allowing instant in the field analysis of certain identifications and in fact adding to the trip list retrospectively once a more detailed look at her pictures was carried out on our return home. A team photographer is a massive asset!

Acknowledgements
Many thanks are due to Phil Palmer for all his advice on logistical matters and subsequent I.D help on my return. A sincere thank you to Chris Lotz of ‘Birding Ecotours’ for the generous amount of invaluable information and advice he freely and enthusiastically contributed during our
many communications before and after the trip. Chris is a professional tour leader and can be contacted at the following address.
href="mailto:info@birdingecotours.co.za">info@birdingecotours.co.za


Sites
Numbers refer to those given to sites in ‘Southern African Birdfinder’ and are for use with the map that comes with this publication.

South Africa
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens (1), Cape of Good Hope Nature reserve (5), Boulder’s beach (6), Strandfontein sewage works (7), West coast National Park (19), Lamberts Bay (23), Kransvleipoort(25), De Hoop Nature reserve (37), Koa Dunes (54), Augrabies Falls National Park
(62), Witsand (63) Karoo National Park (68)

Namibia.
Ros Pinah (194), Sossusvlei (198),Walvis Bay (201), Cape Cross, Spitzkoppe (204), Erongo Mountains (205), Kunene (208), Etosha National Park (209), Rundu area (213), Poppa Falls (214), Mahango Game
Reserve (215), Katima Mulilo (219),

Botswana
Drotsky’s Cabins (216), Chobe National Park (220).

Zambia
Choma, Nkanga River, (301). We stayed at Masuku Lodge on the ‘Bruce MillerFarm’ estate, part of a conservation area and we hired a local farm hand to show us Zambia’s only endemic bird species, Chaplin’s Barbet.

Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls (252)

Additional site info
Hobatere (207), we had planned to include this site in our itinerary but found out
during planning that there has been a fire and both the lodge and camp are closed indefinitely.

The M.E.T camp at Susuwe has also suffered a fire and there is no electricity or water. Note
also that the access track is not anywhere near as good as indicated in SABF and has probably deteriorated since the publication, very sandy.

Shakawe Lodge
Closed for re-development by a new owner

Daily itinerary


Day 1. 1st December Arrived and overnight at Airport Hotel.
Day 2. Collected hire car and drove to Gansbaii via De Hoop Nature reserve.
Day3. Shark trip and overnight Gansbaii.
Day4. Very early start to drive to Cape Point Nature Reserve. Stopped on the way at
Strandfontein sewage works. Returned to Cape Town via Boulder’s beach for Penguins.
Day 5. Drove to West Coast National Park and overnight in Langebaan.
Day 6. Drove to Clanwilliam via Lamberts Bay, overnight in Clanwilliam.
Day 7. Drove inland to camp at Poffadder
Day 8. Birded the circular route to Koah Dunes and overnight here.
Day 9. Drove to the Namibian border crossing at Vioolsdriff and camped at ‘Klein Aus Vista’
Day 10. Drove towards Rosh Pinah and birded the road between here and Aus.
Day 11. Drove to Sossusvlei and overnight here.
Day 12. Drove to Walvis Bay, overnight outside Swakopmund.
Day 13. Drove to Kamanjab via Cape Cross.
Day 14. Kamanjab to Kunene, overnight at Kunene.
Day 15. Guided walk for Cinderella Waxbill, overnight at Kunene.
Day 16. Drove back down to Etosha and spent our first night at Okakuejo.
Day 17. Continued through the park for our second night at Halali.
Day 18. Continued on through for our final night inside the park at Namutoni.
Day 19. Started the drive to the Caprivi strip, overnight at ‘Roy’s Camp’.
Day 20. Drove to Shankara Lodge via Rundu Sewage works
Day 21. Shankara to camp at Poppa falls
Day 22. Drove to Drotsky’s via Mahango game reserve.
Day 23. Drotsky’s
Day 24. Drotsky’s
Day 25. Drotsky’s to ‘Namwe Island lodge’ Katimo Mulilo via Mahango game reserve
Day 26. Katimo Mulilo to ‘Livingstone backpackers’ Livingstone, Zambia.
Day 27. Early morning split between the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides of Victoria falls, afternoon departure for Choma. Overnight at ‘Masuku Lodge’ on ‘Bruce Millers’ farm for Chaplin’s Barbet.
Day 28. Morning spent looking for Chaplin’s Barbet then left to drive to Kasane in Botswana.
Day 29. Kasane to Katimo Mulilo via the transit road through Chobe National park.
Day 30. Katimo Mulilo to Ngepi Lodge in Poppa Falls area.
Day 31. Ngepi to Roy’s camp for a nice quiet new years eve
Day 32. Roy’s camp to Spitskoppe
Day 33. Spitzkoppe to Omaruru.......Don’t do it this way around, do Omaruru first, this was a map reading mess up.
Day 34. Omaruru to overnight at ‘River Chalet’s’ in Mariental.
Day 35. Mariental to Keetmanshoof, overnight here.
Day 36. Long drive from Keetmanshoof to ‘Augrabies falls Backpackers’ formerly known as ‘Kalahari Backpackers’.
Day 37. Augrabies to Witsand
Day 38. Witsand to Karoo National Park
Day 39. Karoo National Park
Day 40. Karoo National Park to Cape Town airport hotel.
Day 41. Morning at Kirstenbsch Botanical Gardens then drove to Gansbay
Day 42. Relaxing morning around Gansbay then 1400hrs check in at ‘Manolo Boutique Hotel at
1400hrs.
Day 43. 12th January Check out at 1400hrs to drive to airport.

Day 1.
I arrived at 0900hrs on BA59 from London, Heathrow. I made my way to City Road Lodge Hotel near Cape Town international airport. Anastasia arrived at 1730hrs on her flight from Moscow.

Day 2.
Collected our car early A.M and drove slowly to De Hoop Nature Reserve (37) for Cape Vulture. This species is threatened and there are few sites in this area but De Hoop offers a virtually guaranteed sighting as it’s very close to a nesting colony. This area was also our best chance of Blue Crane and we actually saw quite a few. We moved on to spend the night at Gansbaai where we had a reservation at Marine guesthouse. We got a good deal here with the first nights accommodation being given free if you book the Great White Shark boat trip with them. The second night we took a double room (shared bathroom) for ZAR150 each , still not bad by African standards. In planning this trip we had been very surprised at how expensive Africa is.

Day 3.
A.M Shark trip booked through the above cost ZAR1050 per person The Shark trip was superb and whilst the spectacular views shown in the advertisements were not had, we did still enjoy great views of the ultimate predator. The site of a 3m long, grey shadow, sliding effortlessly past the boat just beneath the waters surface sent shivers up the spine.

Day 4.
Drive to ‘Cape Point’(5) via Strandfontein sewage works (6) then back for overnight at St Georges Hotel in Cape Town via ‘Boulder’s beach’ (Penguins). Don't do Cape Point at the weekend....it was over run and the traffic going down there was horrendous and spoiled the experience, bad planning on my part. We had previously booked a room during an online promotion at St Georges Hotel at a cost of ZAR475 but were very annoyed when we arrived in Cape Town as the whole City centre had been closed off for a ceremonial turning on of Christmas lights and our hotel had not seen fit to inform us of this. In the end I jumped out of the car as close as possible to the hotel and got one of their staff to come back to out vehicle and guide us in through the back streets.

Day 5. Short drive and easy day birding ‘West Coast National Park
(19) and camp near Langebaan at Leentjiesklip caravan and campsite

Day 6. Lambert’s Bay (23) Cape Gannet then drive to Clanwilliam via Kransvleipoort (25) Anastasia who is not a birder, got a little confused when reading one of my provisional plans for the trip. It is forgivable but none the less funny that when looking at the map and seeing Cape of Good Hope, Cape Town etc she was a little confused that she couldn’t find Cape Gannet!! She won’t thank me for making this public either. Camped at De Pakhuys Day 7 Birded the road to Poffadder (53) and camped in the middle of town

Day 8 (51) Around Poffadder then on to Koah Dunes (54), overnighted at Elkoweru guest house in Springbok.

Day 9 Drove to the Namibian border crossing at Vioolsdriff . Birded Rosh Pinah to Aus (194), night camping at Klein Aus Vista, good for Damara Canary. Look out for the Meerkats c4km South of Steinkopf on the N7. The animals were seen from a way off as we approached. There’s a prominent clump of boulders above the road and they were sitting around on the top. When we realised what they were, we stopped the car and crossed to the opposite side of the road where we sat and waited. Although very wary, they did come out of their den and gave good photo opportunities

Day 10 Drove to Sossusvlei (198).

Day 11. Sossusvlei A.M then on to Walvis Bay (201). Having heard a few unsettling stories regarding theft in and around Walvis Bay and Swakopmund, we decided to try and find a place outside town. We found Sophia Dale Base Camp , about 12KM outside Swakopmund, where we could camp for ZAR90 per person.

Day 12. Cape Cross Seal colony....GRIM! We had arrived in anticipation of enjoying a wonderful spectacle. Instead we were greeted by the sight of thousands of dead and dying seal pups piled up under and on the viewing boardwalk, very distressing to the point that Anastasia could not bring herself to take many pictures. I enquired with the staff what the problem was in the colony but they insisted, albeit quite meekly, that all was ‘normal’. I have since found out that the colony is plagued by occasional outbreaks of Canine Distemper and I assume this was the case. Started to move north and stayed at ‘Oppi Koppi’ in Kamanjab. Nice camp ground set in Acacia scrub and the only place we saw Black-faced Waxbill, Rockrunner, Barred Wren Warbler and Brown-crowned Tchagra.

Day 13 Drove to Kunene River Lodge (208) Cinderella Waxbill, Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush, Bare-cheeked Babbler. The last 3km here was the biggest test of our little
car.

Day 14. Kunene, walk to Waxbill site, evening on the river.

Day 15.Drove back to spend another night at ‘Oppi Koppi’ in Kamanjab. We liked this place and the habitat is good so we decided to stay again

Day 16. Etosha National Park (209) is one of the world’s best know game parks and the prices they charge reflect this! We paid 206 Namibian Dollars per person per night just to camp with our own tent plus the park entrance fee of 80 Dollars each (per day) plus 10 for our car. Though the park didn’t disappoint in avian terms, we had arrived after some early rain which had lead to the dispersal of most prey animals and of course the predators followed them. We had good views of Rhino and Elephant but not a single cat or Hyena. One major concern here is the lack of a camp doctor. We found this out after Anastasia suffered an excruciating Scorpion sting. We rushed her from Halali where we were when she was stung, to our previous camp at Okakuejo where there was a nurse but no doctor. Painkillers, anti histamine and a sedative were all administered but she remained in agony for most of the night and a lot of the next day being fully recovered only after almost a whole week. Scorpions are responsible for several deaths each year in Southern Africa and with the potential for tourists to fall prey to all manner of illness or injury not to mention snakebite, it seems inconceivable that a park with the profile and financial clout of Etosha, does not retain the services of a doctor or even stock anti venom. The nearest hospital is 200km away on poor roads. Anastasia was stung as she returned from the waterhole in the dark in open shoes, a lesson hard learned and a mistake not made again! Having said this, the staff were brilliant in their efforts to help. They first applied some kind of ointment and tried to draw out the poison. This is a big 'no no' we later found out, it doesn't work and only serves to obscure the wound site. Then, they woke the operator of the camps petrol station, filled their 4x4 and Peter drove us at break neck speed to Okakuejo and back at no cost to ourselves. Our first night in Etosha was at Okakuejo, a fairly basic, over priced camp site as indeed they all are.

Day 17. Halali camp, Etosha.

Day 18. . Namutoni camp, Etosha.

Day 19. Drove to Caprivi strip. Overnight at Roy’s Camp (211) Black-faced Babbler multiple sightings were had with very little effort. The food here is outstanding!

Day 20. Continued through Caprivi, overnight at Shankara Lodge. Very busy with local anglers when we arrived. Very helpful and friendly staff. Our first Coppery-tailed Coucal was seen here.

Day 21. Drove towards Botswana and stayed at (214) Poppa falls. Disappointing site, falls not viewable at all due to high water but Rock Pratincole was still seen easily here which was the main objective.

Day 22. Mahango Game Reserve (215) (15km from Poppa). A lovely little reserve where we saw Sable Antelope and Buffalo en route to Drotsky’s Camp. We arrived at Drotsky’s in torrential rain and had intended to camp but we fell victim to the allure of the newly developed bungalows and lovely pool. We stayed three nights and totally blew our budget. Bungalows were not
unreasonable at about 1000 Pula per night. Birds seen included Pel’s Fishing Owl, African Skimmer and Narina Trogon.as well as the only Crested Francolin’s of the trip.


Day 23. Drotsky’s

Day 24. Drotsky’s

Day 25. Drotsky’s am then (219) Katimo Mulilo where we stayed at ‘Namwi Island Lodge’ on the Zambesi. We stayed here twice as we passed in both directions and the site provided Schalow’s Turaco, African Finfoot, African Wood Owl, Trumpeter Hornbill, Brown-hooded Kingfisher and Arrow-marked Babbler

Day 26. Zambia and overnight in Livingstone. ‘Livingstone backpackers’, we camped here on the lawn. Site provides a pool, bar and cooking facilities with very friendly staff. Torrential rain flooded the camp site shortly after we had packed our tent away!

Day 27. Day trip to Victoria falls on both the Zimbabwe and Zambia sides. The only place we saw Natal Spurfowl but little else. Drove to Choma PM seeing Arnot’s Chat right in front of our room on arrival at Masuku Lodge (301). The road to the conservation area is now tarmac, look for the signs to ‘Bruce Miller’ from this road.

Day 28. AM Choma where we saw Chaplins Barbet at Bruce Millers farm with the help of one of the farm hands then on to Kasane where we looked for and failed to see Collared Palm Thrush at Mowena Lodge.

Day 29. Back to Namibia via the transit Road through Chobe National park. Birds here included Southern Ground Hornbill and Red-billed Oxpecker, overnight at Katimo Mulilo again. Don't be put off if you don't have a 4x4, whilst a lot of Chobe park will be unreachable, the transit road is excellent and you never know what you might see just crawling along. We diverted down a small track and were able to view a pool with a few Buffalo but it goes
without saying that this pool will be used by all the other animals in the park as well.


Day 30. We were a bit disappointed with the main Poppa Falls camp site so we thought we’d try somewhere else. Ngepi camp site at Poppa falls area. There's a decent small floodplain outside the camp gates where we saw African and Greater Painted Snipe plus our only Rufous-bellied Heron of the trip

Day 31. Poppa Falls to Roy’s camp again for more superb food!

Day 32. Spitzkoppe (204) and camp.

Day 33. Early morning we looked for Herero Chat at Spitzkoppe and failed so a last second decision was made to hire a guide. Less than an hour later we were watching and photographing a pair. Finding the birds alone would involve a lot more time than we had and plenty of luck. Back to
spend the night at Omaruru rest camp, nothing special, nice pool and a bar and the only place we saw Southern Pied Babbler.

Day 34. River Chalets, Mariental, nice lawns and a small garden pond provide relaxed viewing of some common species including our first Karoo Thrush’s, Common Waxbill, Lesser Masked Weaver and our only Bradfield's Swifts of the trip.

Day 35. Overnight in Keetmanshoof

Day 36. Augrabies backpackers


Day 37. Augrabies Falls (62)National Park. I had hoped to nail one of my many ‘bogey’ birds here, Verraux’s Eagle, instead Anastasia and I were soundly nailed by a million annoying flies. On to Witsand.

Day 38. Witsand (63) Red Lark was the best bird seen whilst a Nightjar seen several times on the road was not vocal and went unidentified. Spotted Genet on the table in front of our tent was a highlight and we both pondered later why having seen it, we didn't bait the table and wait to try and photograph it, next time. Springhare is common on the road here and we had a glimpse of two Porcupines as they dashed across. Drove to Karoo National Park (68)

Day 39. Karoo National Park (68) Great views of Rufous-eared Warbler and Layards
Tit-babbler which are common and easy to see here as well as three Spotted Eagle-Owls in the same tree. Available literature tells of Buffalos and Rhinos but be aware that they have now introduced Lions and all walks must be accompanied by an armed ranger.

Day 40. We arrived back in Cape Town in the early evening and decided to stay at the
airport hotel again both for convenience and price. City Road Lodge Hotel.

Day 41. Morning spent at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. PM Drove down to Gansbaii
/Gansbay, We loved this area and decided to revisit for a little relaxation

Day 42. Morning around Gansbay then drove in to Cape Town for our last night treat, the lovely Boutique Manolo

Day 43. Dropped the car off at the airport and flew home.

Accomodation used All accommodation was of an acceptable standard but RECOMENDED indicates that we liked a place or at the very least would use it again.

SOUTH AFRICA

RECOMENDED: City Road Lodge Hotel Cape Town
international airport, Tel +27 21 934 7303 rlctia.dm@citylodge.co.za

Very convenient at less than half a KM from the terminal building and not badly priced either for an airport hotel at ZAR475 for the room. You can actually push your baggage trolley all the way to the hotel from the terminal. It does have quite bad reviews for various reasons but we decided we could put up with what seemed like minor irritations for one night. This hotel was in fact perfectly ok for our needs, we had no complaints whatever and we decided to stay here again later in the trip. The small garden holds Karoo Prinia, Cape Spurfowl and many other common birds. A small pool at the back of the hotel viewable through a fence held Yellow-billed Duck, Cape Teal and Spotted Thick-knee among others. The latter species was seen feeding on the lawn under lights at the hotel that night.

HIGHLY RECOMENDED: Marine Guesthouse, Kleinbay, Gansbay href="mailto:marineguesthouseandbackpackers@telkomsa.net">marineguesthouseandbackpackers@
telkomsa.net

Mobile. 082 784 6224 32 Hill str. Kleinbaai, Gansbaai Tel. 028- 384 0641

Clean, comfortable, friendly and with lovely views of the bay. St Georges Hotel in Cape Town Nice Hotel at a good promotion price, very central. In retrospect we wished we had booked somewhere further out of town and we were very unhappy that they didn’t inform us of the street closures on the night of our arrival. Leentjiesklip caravan and campsite for West Coast National Park Tel 022 772 2461 Directions from Cape Town: About 120 kms from Cape Town turn left off the R27 to Langebaan. R27 towards Velddrift (± 130km) Left at Langebaan turn-off (Engen 1 Stop) Right towards Mykonos Left into Leentjiesklip (±1km)

Clean and secure, nice beach front location but not great at answering e-mails and not a
lot of choice in the area.

RECOMENDED De Pakhuys near Clanwilliam thys@depakhuys.com +27 (0)27 482 1879 or
4821468
Lovely, secluded and well provided camp site. When we arrived however, we had a heck of a job getting someone to answer the door to check us in. Eventually a blurry eyed teenage boy emerged from the back somewhere, I suspect we woke him?

HIGHLY RECOMENDED Elkoweru guest house in Springbok 1 Bree street Springbok Tel: +27 (0) 27 718 1202 Fax: +27 (0)
27 718 1637 Mobile: +27 (0) 82 8086 331 http://elkoweru.co.za/contact-us/ ZAR 450 got us a lovely en-suite with a shared kitchen, good quality at an extremely good price

RECOMENDED Augrabies backpackers (Formerly Kalahari backpackers) Under the same ownership and a very laid back place, clean, comfortable and when we were there, quiet.

RECOMENDED Witsand Nature Reserve Lovely camp site. We went night birding and when
we came back, the table in front of our tent had attracted the attention of a couple of
Springbok and a Common Genet.

RECOMENDED Karoo National Park Again a very nice, well appointed camp site. We had seen a number of rowdy groups on our travels, seemingly unable to simply enjoy the quiet of the outdoors and when we arrived we were not filled with hope. The place was almost full but fortunately, the people here seemed to be the serious outdoor type who knew how to enjoy nature and we enjoyed it to the extent that we stayed an extra night. Our tent was destroyed by Four-striped Grass Mice here. I was foolish enough to leave the outer waterproof cover of our tent just laying on the ground for two days as it was too hot to use it. In this time, one of the mice had eaten holes
in it and deposited six babies within. The tent was a right off.

VERY HIGHLY RECOMENDED Boutique Manolo, 33 Leeukloof Drive Tamboerskloof , 8001 Cape Town href="mailto:enjoy@manolo.co.za">enjoy@manolo.co.za href="http://www.boutique-manolo.co.za/">http://www.boutique-manolo.co.za/ Our final night's ‘splurge’, after some very basic nights and six weeks of fairly frugal living, we decided to treat ourselves on our last night as it would be almost three months before we saw each other again. This place comes highly recommended and it did not disappoint. Extremely friendly staff, amazing views and a fantastic breakfast. Anyone dragging around a none birding partner will get serious ‘Brownie’ points for any time spent here at the end of a trip. This place takes some beating!! Directions To get to Boutique Manolo, travel towards Cape Town on the N2 motorway. Follow City/Seapoint signs onto N2 and drive all the way until the end, when you hit the traffic lights. Please use the left lanes in order to go straight ahead. You are travelling towards Table Mountain now. Proceed for 2.2 kilometers (you will pass 7 traffic lights). After the 7th light, please turn right into Burnside Road. Go all the way to the end of the street and turn right when the road starts bearing right. Then go after 30 meters directly left into Leeukloof Drive. Boutique Hotel Manolo is on your left number 33.

NAMIBIA

RECOMENDED Klein Aus Vista Good Acacia scrub and a water trough which attracts large numbers of Damara Canaries and Lark Like Buntings among others. P.O. Box 25, Aus,
Namibia Tel: Tel: +264 (0)63 258116/ 258021 Fax: +264 (0)86623302 or +264 (0)63 258021 href="mailto:info@klein-aus-vista.com">info@klein-aus-vista.com href="http://www.klein-aus-vista.com/">www.klein-aus-vista.com

Sophia Dale Base Camp P.O. Box 2248 Swakopmund · Namibia title="Buchen oder Anfragen">sophia@mweb.com.na

Cell Phone: 00264 (0) 81 4130504 href="http://www.sophiadale.org/">http://www.sophiadale.org/ RECOMENDED Oppi
Koppi
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript
enabled to view it href="http://www.oppi-koopi.kamanjab.com/">www.oppi-koopi.kamanjab.com Tel: +264 (0)67
33 00 40 Fax: +264 (0)67 33 01 84 Cell: +264 81 45 30 958 (VITAL) GPS: S 19 37 244 E 14 50
866 Set in good acacia scrub, nice pool, bar and food. Our only Rockrunner, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Black-faced Waxbill and Barred Wren-Warblers were seen here and I'm sure a longer stay would produce a lot more.

HIGHLY RECOMENDED Kunene River Lodge href="http://www.kuneneriverlodge.com/">http://www.kuneneriverlodge.com/ Kunene River Lodge PO Box 406 Ruacana Namibia • Tel: +264 (0)65 274 300 • Sat: +264 (0)65 685 016 • Fax: +264 (0)65 274 301 A lovely camp and lodge with excellent food. Front of house is handled expertly by Hillary and Rolene whilst Peter who leads the ‘Waxbill Walk’ keeps a low profile and is responsible for all below deck matters. Peter is usually found fixing, building or cleaning something and he has a wonderful all round knowledge of the local flora, fauna and avifauna. We camped at 105 Namibian Dollars per head. This is one of the few places to get Cinderella Waxbill and guided walks to the site offer a decent chance of success. In 2008 Peter found the first ever nest of the Waxbill which is available for inspection in reception. It’s also the only site on our itinerary where we could see Rufous-tailed Palm Thrush whilst the tricky Bare-cheeked Babbler is also easily seen in the grounds. The Lodge is accessible via Ruacana only with 4x4 so we had to take the much longer way round via Opuwo with our regular vehicle. The Waxbill aside, this is a superb site offering much more and a few days here will be rewarded with some high quality birding. from Opuwo - take the DR3700 to Epembe (75 kms) At Epembe turn right on to DR3701 to Swaartbooisdrift (60kms) (There is a sign board saying Kunene River Lodge). After approximately 30kms you will come to the Ondoto River, follow the diversion signs and there is a firm place to cross the river. 30kms further on you come to a t-junction, turn right (4kms) Shankara Rest Camp +264 (0)66 258616 shankara@webmail.co.za

RECOMENDED Roy’s
Camp
55KM East of Grootfontein Tel: +264 -67 240302 , Fax +264 -67
240264 royscamp@iway.na

Comfortable, friendly and with amazing food. Black-faced Babbler, the only reason most birders stay here, is easily seen. We stayed here again on new years eve on our way back through the Caprivi just for the food and were not disappointed.

RECOMENDED Namwi Island Lodge Katimo Mulilo On the same track as the famous ‘Hippo Lodge’

066 254 188 namwiisl@iway.na

Nice camp ground on the banks of the Zambesi. Good on site birding with Trumpeter Hornbill, Schalow’s Turaco, African Wood Owl, Arrow-marked Babbler seen as well as African Finfoot whilst sitting having coffee! To look for the Finfoot just scan the reeds on the opposite bank of the river, we had three different birds. Poppa Falls camp site Disappointing, apart from Rock Pratincole there was nothing special about this place. Ngepi camp, Poppa Falls Lovely location, basic camp site. Make sure you camp away from the noisy, backpacker filled bar. Whilst not massively expensive, we did find that most places, including this one, were almost double the price quoted in the 2010 edition of the Lonely Planet. The Lonely Planet is both a blessing and a curse. Whilst it is arguably indispensable, it does seem that once a place gets in there it doubles it’s prices.

RECOMENDED Spitzkoppe The camp here is simply amazing. Whilst there is no electricity or water, the secluded camp sites are wonderful. Each camp site is a considerable distance from it’s neighbour and the night sky is unbelievable. We hired a local guide, Franz, to find Herero Chat for us and he didn’t fail, even without binoculars. Omaruru rest camp href="mailto:omarururestcamp@iway.na">omarururestcamp@iway.na +26464 570516 Nice pool
and the only place we saw Southern Pied Babbler.

RECOMENDED River Chalets, Mariental Situated on the B1 PO Box 262,
Mariental Tel : +264 (0)63 240515 Fax :+264 (0)63 242601 garbers@iway.na
We were going to camp as usual but when we arrived it was simply too hot. This combined with the very reasonable price (450 Nam Dollars) for a so called ‘overnight room’, not to be confused with the Chalets also available, meant we took a room. When we pulled in off the road we didn’t expect much but the well kept lawn and garden pond were a nice surprise. We took our camping chairs and sat on the grass just watching the garden pond. Karoo Thrush, Common Waxbill, Lesser-masked Weaver, African Reed Warbler and our only Bradfield’s Swifts were just a few of the birds seen.

BOTSWANA

RECOMENDED Drotsky’s Cabins Shakawe +27 (0)21 8550395 href="mailto:drotskyscabins@botswanatravelservice.com">drotskyscabins@
botswanatravelservice.com A superb place to kick back for a few days. Though the older chalets remain, there are several brand new bungalows and a swimming pool. Food is good and Jan Drotsky will gladly advise you about key species over a beer in the bar near the camp ground. Jan and his son are both extremely knowledgeable about all aspects of the local wildlife. Ask how many dogs he and friends have lost to snakes and crocodiles! While we were there, they had become concerned about a 2.5m Crocodile which was hanging around the boat dock and it was being viewed as a potential man eater.

ZAMBIA Livingstone backpackers BOX 61170
LIVINGSTONE, ZAMBIA 216 MUSI O TUNYA ROAD PHONE + 260 213 324730 href="mailto:ahorizon@zamnet.zm">ahorizon@zamnet.zm Friendly, typical backpacker
place. Fresh mangoes falling all around the camp site were a highlight.

HIGHLY RECOMENDED Masuku Lodge Bill and Sue Somerset: Masuku Lodge Nkanga River Conservation Area PO Box 630025 Choma Southern Province Zambia Tel: +26 21 3 225225/ +26
097 760756 Email: masuku@zamnet.zm masukulodge@gmail.com Ex diplomat Bill and his wife Sue, built this amazing property themselves, they actually made all the bricks too! Sue is a keen bird watcher and knows most of what’s in her substantial garden. Arnot’s Chat is a regular house guest that lets itself in and out at will and this was the only place we saw the species. Located on the ‘Bruce Miller’ farm, ideally situated for finding Chaplin’s Barbet, Zambia’s only endemic bird species.

Species Lists

Southern Africa species list 2011-12



Order and nomenclature follow 'Birds of Southern
Africa' Sinclair et al.



Abbreviations used

SABF = Southern African Birdfinder



1. African Penguin Spheniscus demersus. About 10 birds seen at Boulder's beach. We opted not to pay the fee to enter the rookery and rather
view the surreal image of these birds sitting nonchalantly within a couple of
metres of bikini clad sun.worshippers.

Children are able to walk up and almost
touch the birds here without any apparent concern from them As we sat enjoying a drink overlooking
the small beach, we watched a bird flying underwater, fishing on the tide line
and swimming in and out of the bathers!

2. Cape Gannet Morus capensis First sighted
distantly from Cape Point. A visit
was then made to the Gannetry at Lambert's Bay, a superb spectacle and well
worth the visit.

3. Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Seen at
Strandfontein Mahango and Etosha.

4. Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus Strandfontein
where c20.

5 .Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor Inland near
Lamberts Bay where a flock of c10 were the only sighting.

6. White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo lucidus Common

7. Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis Common

8. Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax coronatus A few sighting in South
Africa with the best being at Lamberts Bay.

9. Long-tailed or Reed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus africanus Regular
bon rivers and lakes

10. African Darter Anhinga rufa rufa Regular on rivers
and lakes.

11 .Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash hagedash Common

12. Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Seen at
Strandfontein where c6.

13. Goliath Heron Ardea goliath Only seen on the Kunene
River during our 'sundowner' boat trip from Kunene River Lodge. Peter manoeuvred the boat skilfully to
provide superb photo opportunities of several birds including a pair nest
building.

14. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea purpurea Only one seen
at Strandfontein sewage works

14. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea Occasional

15. Intermediate or Yellow-billed
Egret
Ardea
intermedia brachyrhyncha
Occasional

16. Great Egret Egretta alba melanorhynchos Occasional

17. Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta Occasional

18. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis Occasional

19. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides A couple seen at
Mahango Nature reserve and one at Namutoni, Etosha, Namibia.

20. Slaty Egret Egretta vinaceigula We struggled to
see what we thought would be a fairly regular bird and finally saw just one at
Mahango.

21. Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola rufiventris Some work and a
little luck was needed here. We
finally flushed one on the small flood plain behind Ngepi backpackers which
fortunately landed in view allowing for photos to be taken

22. White-backed Night-Heron Gorsachius leuconotus Only one,
Kunene River Lodge 'sundowner'

23. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax Occasional

24. Green-backed (Striated) Heron Butorides striatus atricapillus Occasional

25. Black Stork Ciconia nigra One juvenile at Karoo
National Park S.A was the only record. An uncommon bird in Southern Africa.

26. Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii Just two seen, at a
water hole near Halali, Etosha, Namibia

27. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus microscelis Occasional

28. White Stork Ciconia ciconia Dozens seen in the
Overberg, SA, often sharing ploughed fields with Blue Cranes.

29. Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus Okakuejo,
Etosha where several birds were seen with Vultures drying out after rain

30. African Open-billed Stork Anastomus lamelligerus lamelligerus

31. Hamerkop or Hammerhead Scopus umbretta umbretta Common

32. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Strandfontein
sewage works were the only ones noted.

33. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis Good numbers
seen at Strandfontein sewage works.

34. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Regular
throughout.

35. White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata Several seen in
Mahango NR, Botswana.

36. White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus A few seen at
Strandfontein sewage works.

37. Africa Pygmy Goose Nettapus auritus Two only at Mahango
NR, Botswana.

38. Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis One only at
Mahango.

39. Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotus Mahango NR,
Botswana was the only sighting with just a single female.

40. Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca Regular
throughout.

41. South African Shelduck Tadorna cana Seen at Strandfontein
and near Lamberts Bay.

42. Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata Seen at a few sites the
first being the small pool behind our City Road Lodge airport hotel.

43. Cape Shoveler Anas smithii Only noted at
Strandfontein.

44. Southern Pochard Netta erythropthalma About 10 Seen on a
water hole near Halali only.

45. Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha Seen at a few
sites the first being the small pool behind our City Road Lodge airport hotel.

46. Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa Only noted at
Strandfontein

47. Cape Vulture Gyps caprotheres I noted during our
planning that we actually had no sites on our itinerary where we would see this
species so at the last minute I included De Hoop Nature reserve. Although it' s not possible to view the
breeding colony here, good views were had of soaring birds and sightings are
almost guaranteed.

48. White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Common within Etosha
but not sighted anywhere else.

49. Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus Excellent views
of several birds which had been grounded in heavy rain at Etosha was the only
sighting.

50. White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Several birds
seen within Mahango NR, Botswana and one at Etosha.

51. African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer Just two
sightings, Drotsky's camp, Bostwana and Mahango NR, Botswana.

52. Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus An uncommon summer
visitor, only one sighting at Mahango.

53. Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Several
sightings in the Caprivi, Namibia and Zambia of birds in flight invariably led
to our car screeching to a halt.

54. Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi Several seen in the
Caprivi arae, Namibia.

55. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax A few seen grounded
during heavy rain in Etosha and several seen through the Caprivi, Namibia.

56. African Hawk Eagle Aqula spilogaster Only one juvenile
seen and photographed, Caprivi area, Namibia.

57. Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus Only one sighting at
Karoo National Park., S.A

58. Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis First seen near
the South African, Namibian border at Violsdrif, regular thereafter.

59. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus parasitus Regular, usually
around human habitation.

60. European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus A couple seen and
photographed in the Caprivi area, Namibia.

61. Jackal Buzzard Buteo rufofuscus Two near Gansbaii,
one near Violsdrif SA and one in Namibia near Keetmanshof were the only
records.

62. Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Several sightings within
Namibia including excellent views at Kunene River Lodge.

63. Steppe Buzzard Buteo vulpinus A candidate for
commonest raptor, regular throughout but main in South Africa.

64. African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus Seen at Strandfonten
and West Coast national park only, SA.

65. Black Harrier Circus mautus A last gasp sighting
right at the end of our time at West Coast national park. A male was seen
briefly but disappeared over a ridge.
A manic chase for some 5km down the road did not yield an further
sighting unfortunately.

66. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Regular throughout.

67. Pale-chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus Common throughout
though our first wasn't seen until quite close to the Namibian border in S.A.
Probably the commonest raptor of the trip.

68. Dark-chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates One only in
Zambia.

69. African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro One only, seen
perched in Chovbe NP, Botswana.

Shikra Accipiter
badius
Regular through the Caprivi, Namibia.

70. Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus Occasional through
the Caprivi and one perched juvenile photographed in Zambia.

71. Peregrine Falcon Falco
peregrinus
One only at the Cape of Good Hope NR.

72. Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus Occasional
throughout.

Hobby sp Falco
subbuteo / cuvieri
A bird seen hunting near a pool
in Chobe National Park, Botswana, was not seen well enough for a specific I.D.

73. Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera A single bird
photographed on telephone wire in Zambia was the only sighting.

74. Dickinson's Kestrel Falco dickinsoni Two birds seen in
the Caprivi area, Namibia.

75. Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni A party of 5-6 was
seen near Karoo NP, South Africa.

76. Rock Kestrel Falco rupicolus First seen near Gansbaii in Southern
South Africa, occasional thereafter.

77. Greater Ketsrel Falco rupicoloides Regular, often on
telegraph poles.

78. Amur Falcon Falco amurensis Four birds together
on wires near Choma in Zambia were the only ones noted.

79. Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus I was
begging to despair at out lack of success with this species having checked what
seemed like hundreds of Social Weaver colonies. Eventually we got lucky with a single bird near Okakuejo in
Etosha, Namibia and this was to remain the only sighting.

80. Common Ostrich Struthio
camelus
Despite seeing plenty of them in S.A, I
waited to 'tick' them until I saw one at Sossusvlei in Namibia. It's said that the South African birds
are not genetically pure having originated from farms where they had been bred
for their feathers, common.

81. Helmeted Guinefowl Numida meleagris Common throughout.

82. Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena A pair seen
twice at Drotsk't camp, Botswana were the only record.

83. Red-billed Spurfowl Pternistis adspersus First seen at
Namutoni in Etosha where they were tamely walking around the camp site and
occasionally dust bathing, common thereafter.

84. Cape Spurfowl Pternistis capensis Common within
range, first seen within the grounds of our City Road Lodge airport hotel.

85. Natal Spurfowl Pternistis natalensis One sighting
only of about five birds at Victoria falls on the Zambia side.

86. Red-necked Spurfowl Pternistis afer This species (and a
few more including Spectacled Weaver) have a very odd range with an isolated
population in the Kunene region of Namibia where two were seen and were the
only sighting.

87. Swainson's Spurfowl Pternistis swainsonii First seen in
Mahango reserve, Botswana where common.
Also seen occasionally in Zambia en-route to Choma.

Quail sp Coturnix
coturnix / delegorguei
A bird flushed during a
roadside comfort stop in the Caprivi was not seen well enough for specific I.D.

88. African Finfoot Podica senegaensis An amazing three
birds seen from our camp site at Katimo Mulilo in Namibia. Whilst sitting with a coffee at a table
in the camp which overlooks the Zambesi (Namwi Island Lodge) I was idly
scanning the far side of the river when I picked up a single bird. I dashed for
my scope and lost the bird only to find a Cormorant drying itself and I started
to doubt myself as I'd only seen the bird at distance through 'bins' but I soon
picked it up again and elation turned to amazement when I found another and
another! This was the Christmas holiday period and there was no boat traffic on
the main channel so I assume the birds were taking advantage of this and
venturing out of the quieter back channels where they usually lurk. Two adult males and a female were seen.

89. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Common in
suitable habitat.

90. African Swamphen Porphyrio madagascarensis Common at
Strandfontein.

91. Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra A few seen
including a very tame bird at Kunene
river lodge which would run and take bread offered to it.

92. African Crake Crecopsis egregia One sighting only
of a bird stalking through damp grass at Rundu sewage works, Namibia.

93. Blue Crane Anthropoides paradiseus Good numbers
seen en route to De Hoop in the Overberg region including a flock of 15 plus
two birds seen in Etosha near Namutoni. Namibia.

94. Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius First seen
at Sosusvlei, also seen in Etosha, Namibia.

95. Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori A total of six seen in
Etosha, Namibia.

96. Ludwig's Bustard Neotis ludwigii Two seen, one in a field shading under a
tree near Sosusvlei and one within the park on th open plain.

97. Red-crested Korhaan Lophotis ruficrista Only one
sighting after we left Kunene River Lodge when one was found feeding in
roadside vegetation.

98. Northern Black Korhaan Afrotis afraoides Fairly common within Etosha, Namibia with several
sightings.

99. Ruppells's Korhaan Eupodotis reuppellii The commonest
Bustard with one daily total being eight sightings.

100. Karoo Korhaan Eupodotis caerulescens Two seen in
flight near Poffadder and two near Sosusvlei.

101. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Common in
appropriate habitat.

102. African Jacana Actophilornis africanus Common in
appropriate habitat

103. African Black Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini First seen at Gansbaii in Southern SA,
common on the coast therafter

104. Eusrasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralagus A bit of a
'mega' in S.A but one present during our visit to the West Coast National Park
where they are not quite annual. Seen from the Seeberg hide, three twitchers
were on site.

105. Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis Regular throughout
including a road kill in the desert.
First seen on the small pool behind our airport hotel in Cape Town. It or another was then seen on the lawn
area of the hotel hunting under
floodlights. Another individual
was present at Karoo national park and seemed to be hunting using the camp site
lights and was very approachable.
Often seen on the road during night drives.

106. Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus First seen at a
small river crossing near Kunene River Lodge and aq couple seen on the river at
Kunene River Lodge.

107. Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni Occasional, mainly
through the Caprivi.

108. Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis I had my fingers
crossed that we wouldn't miss this species as there had been plenty of rain
before our arrival and some rivers were 1m higher than they should be at this
time of year. We were lucky and
five or six birds were easily viewed at Poppa falls either just sitting on the
rocks or hawking the odd dragonfly.

109. Burchell's Courser Cursorius rufus A pair seen well and
photographed at Sossusvlei was the only sighting.

110. Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus Several seen in
Etosha including a parent with three young.

111. Blacksmith Plover Vanellus armatus Common throughout.

112. Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassiristris Only seen at
two sites, first in Mahango, Botswana then again on floodplains behind Ngepi
Lodge in Katimo Mulilo, Namibia whilst looking for Rufous-bellied Heron.

113. Crowned Lapwing Vanellus
coronatus
Only one sighting of a single bird. It was spotted standing still under
trees in a small orchard as we drove through the Caprivi. We stopped and
photographed the bird thinking at the time that we'd see plenty more?

114. African Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegalus First seen
in Etosha, occasional thereafter.

115. Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Several seen at
close quarters in West Coast National Park.

116. Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris This lovely
wader was seen first at Kunene in a dryish river bed as we looked for
Cinderella Waxbill. Occasional thereafter.

117. Greater Painted Snipe Rostratula benghalensis One flushed
on the flooded area outside Ngepi Lodge, Namibia.

118. African (Ethiopian) Snipe Gallinago nigripennis One flushed on
the flooded area outside Ngepi Lodge, Namibia.

119. Common Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Regular on the
coast.

120. Common Greenshank Tringa nebuklaria Occasional

121. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Ocassional.

122. Common Sandpiper Actitis hyperleucos Ocassional.

123. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Regular at the
coast.

124. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Common on the coast

125. Hartlaub's Gull Croicocephalus hartlaubi Common on
the coast.

126. African Skimmer Rhynchops flavirostris One of the species I most wanted to see on this trip and as
mentioned previously, river levels were very high for the time of year so I
was very uncertain. As it turned out, a boatman at
Drotsky's Lodge knew the location
of one of the few remaining, uncovered sandbars on the Okavango and was able to
show us a small flock, maybe 30 birds.
The high water had taken it's toll and was said to have killed many
unfledged young on the nests.

127. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Several at Walvis
Bay.

128. Swift Tern Sterna bergii A few on the coast.

129. Sandwich Tern Thallaseus sandvicensis Numerous at
Walvis Bay.

130. Common Tern Sterna hirundo Common at Walvis Bay.

131. Damara Tern Sternula balaenarum A tricky bird to
see. During our visit to the
Gannet colony at Lamberts Bay, the warden there who had worked ringing the
Terns, advised that a good strategy was to wait on the road at the Walvis Bay
site and pick them up on call flying over the road. Two birds were located this
way but were not seen on the ground, views had were disappointing. Next time
we'll go inside the salt works if possible

132. Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua First seen at
Poffadder in S.A where small flocks ergulary flew over. Numerous in desert areas after this.

133. Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus Excellent views
were had at Kunene River lodge and remained the best sighting. Flyovers elsewhere were the only other
records.

134. Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea Common.

135. African Olive (Rameron) Pigeon Columba arquatrix Two seen in
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, S.A.

136. Lemon (Cinnamon) Dove Aplopelia larvata I was elated to
find one of these skulking birds at the place recommended in the guide book
within Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, S.A. I later found them to be extremely easy to see in the 'dell'
area where they have become very tame, it took the gloss off my previous
efforts a little!

137. Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Regular in
the Caprivi area.

138. Cape Turtle Dove Streptopelia capicola Regular.

139. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Common.

140. African Green Pigeon Treron calvus A flock of c30 birds on
the approach track to Namwi Island Lodge, Katiomo Mulilo, Namibia, was the only
sighting.

141. Emerald-Spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos First noted at
Kunene River Lodge, regular in the Caprivi thereafter.

142. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis First noted at West
Coat national Park, S.A . Occasional thereafter, usually flushed off the road.

143. Rosy-faced Lovebird Agapornis rosicollis First seen at
Oppi Koppi Lodge in Kamanjab, regular within it's range after this.

144. Grey-headed Parrot Poicephalus fuscicollis As we arrived
with the intention of camping at Susuwe (closed due to a fire) a noisy
individual gave itself away close to the office building and was the only one
seen.

145. Ruppell's Parrot Poicephalus ruppellii A single at
Kunene River Lodge was the only sighting.

146. Schalow's Turaco Tauraco schalowi A bird responded to
tape at Namwi Island lodge, Katimo Mulilo but infuriatingly stayed out of sight
high in the canopy between short flights through the trees. Disappointingly the only sighting of
the trip.

147. Grey Go-away- Bird (Lourie) Corythaixoides concolor Common within
it's range.

148. Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius Commonly heard in
Zambia, only one seen at Masuku Farm on the Bruce Miller Farm estate.

149. Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus First seen at Etosha,
commonly heard after that with a few sightings.

150. Jacobin Cuckoo Oxylophus jacobinus Common within
it's range with numerous sightings.

151. Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius ne sighting only
at Okakuejo, Etosha.

152. Dideric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius Common.

153. Coppery-tailed Coucal Centropus cupreicaudus Several
sightings, the first being a very wet individualat Shamvura Lodge in the
Caprivi.

154. White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus Only seen
well at Kunene River Lodge where it seems easy to see. Another example of a
species with an isolated population in this area.

155. Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis One only in
the Caprivi.

156. African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii Seen firstly at
Drotsky's Camp in Botswana then Namwi Island Lodge Namibia.

157. African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis One roosting bird
seen at Halali in Etosha.

158. Verreaux's (Giant) Eagle Owl Bubo lacteus One distant bird at
Kunene River Lodge seen from the boat during the 'sundowner' trip.

159. Pel's Fishing Owl Scotopelia peli Two birds seen well
on a boat trip from Drotsky's camp were a highlight of the trip and a bird I
would have been extremely disappointed to miss.

160. Spotted Eagle Owl Bubo africanus Several birds flushed
from the road between Halali and Okakuejo in Etosha as we franticly rushed
Anastasia to a clinic following her scorpion sting. Nice silhouette views of a
bird at Spitzkoppe and superb views of three birds found together in a tree at
Karoo National Park..

161. Western Barn Owl Tyto alba One bird roosting at Halali
in Etosha.

162. Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma Heard and seen
and Spitzkoppe.

163. Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Caprimulgus rufigena Seen well at
Kamanjab on the track to 'Porcupine Camp'.

164. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Numerous at
Augrabies falls, the only sighting.

165. Bradfield's Swift Apus
bradfieldi
Only one sighting of c10 birds at
Mariental, Namibia.

166. Little Swift Apus affinis Regular throughout.

167. African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus Occasional within
range.

168. Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus Seen around Gansbaii
in S. SA

169. White-backed Mousebird Colius colius Occasional within range
including West Coast National Park.

170. Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus Seen at two sites
where numerous, Poffadder and Karoo National Park.

171. Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina Only seen at
Drotsky's camp where a pair are resident breeders.

172. Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maximus Two sightings,
Rundu when one on a telephone wire and Katimo Mulilo where two were watched
catching small freshwater crabs.

173. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Regular, especially at
Rundu where up to ten were visible
at one time.

174. Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata Only note at Kunene
River lodge where two seen on the boat trip.

175. Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis A couple of
confiding birds in the grounds of Kunene River lodge.

176. Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris Two seen at Namwi
Island Lodge, Katimo Mulilo.

177. European Bee-eater Merops apiaster Occasional
throughout.

178. Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus A couple seen at
Drotsky's Camp, Botswana.

179. Olive (Madagascar) Bee-eater Merops supercilliosus Fairly common
at Kunene River Lodge where they could be approached by boat as they perch in
riverside trees and bushes.

180. White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides Noted at
Drotsky's Camp, Botswana only

181. Southern Carmine Bee-eater Merops rubicoides Fairly common in
the Caprivi and in to Zambia despite the dispersal of breeding colonies they were still easy to see, often on
telephone wires.

182. Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus First noted along the Orange River in Namibia, regular thereafter.

183. Little Bee-eater Merops
pusillus
Common within range.

184. Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus Common within
range.

185. European Roller Coracias garrulus A couple of sightings in the Caprivi
only.

186. Purple Roller Coracias naevius A couple seen, first
at Roy's Camp in the Caprivi.

187. Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus A couple seen in
the Caprivi and in Zambia.

188. Southern Ground Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeteri I had long wanted
to see this species and we were fortunate in finding a party of four crossing
the road in Chobe National Park, Botswana. They walked across the 'transit' road which runs in to
Namibia, giving superb, prolonged views, the male carrying a large Locust held
delicately in the end of his bill.

189. Trumpeter Hornbill Bycanistes bucinator First seen at
Namwi Island Lodge, Katimo Mulilo, a couple thereafter.

190. African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus The commonest Hornbill
in the range, regular.

191. Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas A couple seen in
the Caprivi.

192. Bradfiled's Hornbill Tockus bradfieldi A bit surprsing but
we only saw one, in the Caprivi.

193. Monteiro's Hornbill First seen at Oppi Koppi Lodge in Kamanjab, a few seen thereafter.

194. Southern Red-billed Horbill Tockus erythrorhynchus A few seen.

195. Damara Hornbill Tockus damarensis A few seen in
Etosha.

196. Green (Red-billed) Wood-Hoopoe Phoeniculus
purpureus
The most frequently encountered of
it's group within the region with regular sightings.

197. Violet Wood-Hoopoe Phoeniculus damarensis One sighting
only of a party of five in the Kunene region.

198. Common (Greater) Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus cyanomelas Fairly
regular in woodland.

199. African Hoopoe Upupa africana Few sightings away from the Cape where
they were especially common on lawns in Gansbaii.

200. Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus Fairly common
through the Caprivi getting commoner as we went further east.

201. Acacia Pied Barbet Triocholaema leucomelas First seen at
Klein Aus Vista in Sossusvlei, regular thereafter

202. Chaplin's (Zambian) Barbet Lybius chaplini Seen on the Bruce
Killer estate with the assistance of one of his staff who guided us to a
fruiting tree where three birds were seen. It wasn't asked for but maybe expected so we did tip the guy
who took us there.

203. Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird (Tinker
Barbet)
Pogoniulus chrysoconus Only noted at Katimo Mulilo.

204. Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator A small party
seen at Kunene.

205. Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor A single bird sitting
on the fence below a colony of
Red-billed Buffalo Weavers at the border post at Kazungula.

206. Bennet's Woodpecker Campetherabennetti A single female of
the distinctive capricorni race at Kunene and
another at Susuwe.

207. Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus Firstnoted at
Kunene, occasional thereafter.

208. Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens Regular.

209. Olive Woodpecker Dendropicos griseocephalus One sighting at Katimo Mulilo was of the
distinctive ruwenzori race which has a red belly
patch.

210. Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea Seen well in
Etosha wehere fairly common.

211. Large-billed (Thick-billed) Lark Galerida magnirostris A couple seen
between Poffadder and Springbok.

212. Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciata Only
noted around Poffadder where common, seen with attendant young.

213. Sabota Lark Calendulauda sabota Common in Etosha and
the large billed form, sometimes called 'Bradfield's Lark' seen at Poffadder.

214. Fawn-coloured Lark Calendulauda africanoides Several
seen around Poffadder.

215. Karoo Lark Calendulauda albescens Seen occasionally as we passed up the W coast of SA.

216. Barlow's Lark Calendulaudabarlowi A single bird
found at the site near Port Nolloth, see SABF

217. Red Lark Calendulauda burra Seen at Koa Dunes
and again at Witsand.

218. Rufous-naped Lark Calendulauda africana A few noted in
Mahango reserve, Botswana.

219. Karoo Long-billed Lark Certhilauda subcoronata A couple seen
at Poffadder.

220. Benguela Long-billed Lark Certhilauda benguelensis A single
bird photographed en-route between Cape Cross and Kamanjab.

221. Pink-billed Lark Spizocorys canirostris Seen well in
Etosha, see SABF.

222. Sclater's Lark Spizocorys sclateri A couple seen at
Poffadder around the water

trough dessribed in SABF

223. Stark's Lark Spizocorys
starki
Regularly encounterd as we drove through
stony desert in Namibia and at Spitzkoppe.

224. Gray's Lark Ammomanopsis grayi A single bird
photographed north of Sosussvlei.

225. Grey-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix verticalis Common.

226. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Regular.

227. White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis Occasional, first
noted near the pool behind our airport hotel in Cape Town.

228. Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata One only, a bird
perched on wires en route to Etosha from Kamanjab.

229. Red-breasted Swallow Cercropis semirufa A couple seen,
first noted as we approached the Caprivi.

230. Lesser Striped Swallow Cercropis abbysinia Occasional through the Caprivi.

231. Greater Striped Swallow Cercropis cucullata Occasional, first
seen near the airport in Cape Town.

232. Mosque Swallow Cercropis senegalensis A couple seen
well at Mahango, Botswana.

233. South African Cliff Swallow Petrochelidon spilodera A few noted
as we drove through central Namibia, often flying low in front of the car.

234. Black Saw-Wing (Swallow) Psalidoprocne holomelaena Almost the
last tick of the trip with two only at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Cape
Town.

235. Common House Martin Delichonjn urbicum First noted at Kamanjab in Namibia where thousands were hawking over
the village early morning before they all sat preening on telephone wires. Not
noted again until the second last day of our trip during a return trip to one
of our favourite areas, Gansbaii.

236. Banded Martin Riparia cincta Only seen at Victoria
falls where they formed a mixed flock with the following species.

237. Sand Martin Riparia riparia Only noted in a mixed
flock at Victoria falls with the above species.

238. Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola Regular.

239. Rock Martin Ptynoprogne fuligula Occasional.

241. Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis Regular

242. African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus Regular in Southern
Namibia through the Caprivi.

243. Black-headed Oriole Oriolusd larvatus One at Katimo
Mulilo was the only one noted.

244. White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis First seen on the
beach in front of our guest house in Kleinbaii, a few at Strandfontein.

245. Pied Crow Corvus albus Common

246. Cape Crow Corvus capensis Common

247. House Crow Corvus splendens A few seen near Cape
Town.

248. Ashy Tit Parus cinerascens Several seen at
Spitzkoppe.

249. Grey Tit Parus afer A party of three seen in
Kransvleipoort.

250.Rufous-bellied Tit Parus rufiventris At least one bird
with a flock of Retz's Helmetshrikes at Choma, Zambia.

251. Southern Black Tit Parus niger One only at De Hoop NR.

252. Carp's Tit Parus carpi First seen at Kunene,
regular thereafter.

253. Black-faced Babbler Turdoides melanops Seen easily with
numerous sightings at Roy's Camp.

254. Arrow-marked Bablerr Turdoided jardinii Seen twice with
small groups at Drotsky's and Katimo Mulilo.

255. Hartlaub's Babbler Turdoides hartlaubii Common once in
range.

256. Southern Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolor One sighting with
presumably the same group seen twice within Omaruru rest camp.

257. Bare-cheeked Babbler Turdoides gymnogenys Seen at Hallali
in Etosha and easily at Kunene River Lodge where they came and sat in the tree
over out tent for twenty minutes and were watched preening each other.

258. Terrestrial Brownbul Phyllastrephus terrestris First seen
at Poppa falls then again at Victoria falls.

259. Cape Bulbul Pycnonotus capensis Common

260. African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans Common

261. Dark-capped (Black-eyed) Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor Common once in
range.

262. Sombre Greenbul Andropadus importunis Only seen in
Kirstenbosch where very common vocally but awkward to see as they sang
constantly from deep cover.

263. Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichlaflaviventris Common once
in range, first seen at Kunene.

264. Olive Thrush Turdus olivaceus Only seen in
Kirstenbosch where a single was found feeding quietly in the understorey.

265. Karoo Thrush Turdus smithi Seen well and very
confiding on the lawns of 'River Chalets' in Mariental, Namibia and Augrabies
Falls Backpackers. Juvenile
thrushes seen in Karoo national park were also probably this species.

266. Kurrichane Thrush Turdus libonyanus Two sightings, a
pair foraging in a picnic stop in the Caprivi and one in Choma, Zambia.

267. Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichla litsitsirupa Occasional
in range, first seen at Kunene.

268. Short-toed Rock Thrush Monticola brevipes Two sightings, one
on the road feeding between Aus and Sossusvlei and another at Karoo NP in the
Klipspringer pass.

269. Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris Common, first
seen at De Hoop.

270. Sick-winged Chat Cercomela sinuata One at Poffadder was
the only sighting.

271. Karoo Chat Cercomela schlegelii Regular in
suitable habitat.

272. Tractrac Chat Cercomela tractrac A couple seen by
stopping the car in suggested places as per SABF.

273. Ant-eating Chat Myrmecocichla Fairly regular at
several sites.

274. Mountain Wheatear Oenanthe monticola Common in suitable
habitat.

275. Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata Common.

276. African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus First seen at De
Hoop, a few thereafter.

277. Herero Chat Namibornbis herero After some time
looking for this bird on my own, unsuccessfully, I decide to enlist the help of
a local guide. Franze, was located
and within half an hour so were the birds. Close 'walk away' views were enjoyed but this bird would be
very tricky without local knowledge I suggest. Anyone on a trip with limited time is encouraged to use
Franze or one of his friends who have no optical aids but do know this bird and
the other commoner stuff. The cost
was a reasonable $150 Namibian for the two of us.

278. Bearded Scrub Robin Cercotrichas quadrivirgata A couple
seen in the Caprivi after they were 'put up' from the ground perched bush top
giving good views.

279. White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Fairly
regular sighting in appropriate habitat.

280. Kalahari Scrub Robin Cercotrichas paena Good views at
Kunene River were the first, a few therafter.

281.0Karoo Scrub Robin Cercotrichas coryphaeus Fairly
regularly seen within range.

282. Cape Robin Chat Cossypha caffra Common, first seen in
the small garden of our airport hotel in Cape Town.

283. White-browed Robin Chat Cossypha heuglini Common within
range, first seen at Poppa Falls.

284. Rufous-tailed Palm Thrush Cichladusa ruficauda Only seen at
Kunene River Lodge where a pair were resident behind the swimming pool.

285. Rockrunner Achaetops pycnopygius One only at
Oppi Koppi, Kamanjab.

286. Cape Grassbird Sphenoeacus afer Seen within
Kirstenbosch and at Cape of Good Hope.

287. Long-billed Crombec Sylvietta rufescens Only one at
Spitzkoppe.

288. Cape Penduline-Tit Anthoscopus minutus One only at Karoo
NP.

289. Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis A few seen,
Etosha and Spitzkoppe.

290. Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler Sylvia subcaeruleum Regular, first
seen at Sossusvlei.

291. Layard's Tit-Babbler Sylvia layardi Only seen at Karoo NP
where seemingly common.

292. Little Rush Warbler Bradypterus baboecala One seen with
effort Strandfontein sewage works and one at Rundu sewage works.

293. Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina A couple seen.

294. Greater Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus
rufescens
One only from Drotsky's Camp on the
Okovango.

295. Lesser Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris One at
Strandfontein sewage works.

296. African Reed Warbler Acrocephalus baeticatus A couple
seen, one along the Orange river and one at the garden pool of River Chalets in
Mariental.

297. Cloud Cisticola Cisticola textrix A probable at Cape
of Good hope.

298. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Occasional throughout.

299. Desert Cisticola Cisticola arisukus A couple at
Etosha.

300. Neddicky Cisticola fulvicapilla A couple in
the Caprivi.

301. Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops One seen on a
small garden pool whilst trying (and failing) to see Collared palm Thrush at
Mowena Lodge, Botswana.

302. Rattling Cisticola Cisticila chiniana Common from Kunene
eastwards.

303. Levaillant's Cisticola Cisticola tinniens Only seen at West
Coast National Park where common.

304. Luapula Cisticola Cisticola luapula A couple in the
Caprivi.

305. Grey-backed Cisticola Cisticola subruficapilla First seen
at Cape of Good Hope NR where common, regular within range thereafter.

306. Black-chested Prinia Prinia flavicans Common within range.

307. Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Common within range.

308. Karoo Prinia Prinia maculosa Common within range,
first seen in the garden of our airport hotel in Cape Town.

309. Namaqua Warbler Phragmacia substriata A couple seen
en-route northwards as we made our way up SA to Namibia.

310. Rufous-eared Warbler Malcorus pectoralis Only seen at
Karoo NP where common and easy to see.

311. Barred Wren-Warbler Calamonastes fasciolatus Only seen at
Oppi Koppi, Kamanjab where two watched at length early morning.

312. Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata First seen
at Kunene, common from there eastwards.

313. Bar-throated Apalis Apalis thoracita Only seen around
Gansbaii where common.

314. Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida One only at Roy's
camp. The black 'splotch' in the middle of the breast is much bigger than
illustrated.

315. Fiscal Flycatcher Sigelus silens Common around the
Cape, lots seen including newly fledged young.

316. Southern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis pammelaina Regular in the
Caprivi and over in to Zambia.

317. Chat Flycatcher Bradornis infuscatus Only one at
Spitzkoppe.

318. Marico Flycatcher Bradornis mariquensis Regular from
Etosha north and east.

319. African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta One only, watched at
length inside Kirstenbosch.

320. Spotted Flycatcher Muscicaspa striata Regular
throughout, first at De Hoop where observed with recently fledged young.

321. African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis Occasional throughout, first at De Hoop where seen with recently
fledged young.

322. Fairy Flycatcher Stenostira scita One only at
Kransvleipoort.

323. Cape Batis Batis capensis Common within range.

324. Chinspot Batis Batis malitor Regular in the Caprivi.

325. Pririt Batis Batis pririt Several sightings,
firstly at Kunene.

326. White-tailed Shrike Lanioturdus torquatus Regular within
range including Spitskoppe.

327. Cape White-eye Zosterops capensis Common.

328. Orange River White-eye Only seen at Mariental in the area of the garden pool at River
chalet's.

329. African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegal;ensis Several in
the Caprivi.

330. Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis Common.

331. African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp Several sightings,
first at Kunene.

332. Cape Longclaw Macronyx capensis Two at West Coast
National Park.

333. African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Severl throughout.

334. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis This is far from being
an easy group to identify so this I.D is based on distribution and
habitat. A single bird seen on a
rocky hillside along the Orange river between Rosh Pinah and Aus.

335. Plain-backed Pipit anthus leucophrys A couple in
Mahango.

336. Magpie Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca First seen in
Mahango, very common in Zambia .

337. Southern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus anguitimens Several
sightings, first at Kamanjab.

338. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Fairly regular
throughout.

339. Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor Regular.

340. Common Fiscal Lanius collaris Common, first at
Gansbaii with young. One of the
Western / desert races with the
white supercilium was also noted at Spitzkoppe.

341. Retz's Helmetshrike Prionops retszi Just one group which
formed the main constituent of a fast moving mixed flock located as we exited the Bruce Miller estate in
Zambia.

342. Brubru Nilaus
afer
One sighting of three birds at Sossuslvlei
which were in the tree over our tent as we were emerging early A.M.

343. Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla Regular with the
first as we entered the Caprivi.

344. Southern Boubou Laniarius ferrugines Only noted in
Kirstenbosch.

345. Tropican Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus A couple seen
near Kasane, Botswana.

346. Swamp Boubou Laniarius bicolor Regular and very
vocal within range, first at Kunene. This is yet another example of a disjunct
distribution relative to the Kunene region.

347. Crimson-breasted Shrike Laniarius atrocococcinus Regular,
first seen at Oppi Koppi, Kamanjab.

348. Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis Two sightings, both
at Oppi Koppi, Kamanjab were the only ones.

349. Bokmakierie Telophorus zeylonus Regular within
range.

350. Cape Glossy Starling Lamprotornis nitens Common.

351. Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus a couple seen the Caprivi.

352. Meeve's Starling Lamprotornis mevesii First seen in
the Kunene and regular eastwards after that.

353. Burchell's Starling Lamprotornis australis What a
monster! They must be almost as big as a Jackdaw, regular within range and
first seen as we neared the Caprivi.

354. Pied Starling Lamprotornis bicolor Just a couple of
sightings, first at De Pakhuy's camp ground near Clanwilliam.

355. Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster Occasional
with the first at Halali, Etosha.

356. Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio Very common
within range, first was on the roof of our airport hotel in Cape Town.

357. Pale-winged Starling Onychognathus nabourup Regular,
patchy sightings within range.

358. Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris Only noted around
Gansbaii and Cape Town.

359. Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus Seen in Mahango
and Chobe National Parks, Botswana.

360. Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus Five or six
of this and the above species on the same Buffalo in Chobe National Park.

361. Cape Sugarbird Promerops cafer Good views of several
birds but only at Cape of Good Hope.

362. Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa A few sightings,
first in Napier in Southern SA.

363. Orange-breasted Sunbird Anthobaphes violacea A few seen in
the Cape area.

364. Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Only a
couple noted in Zambia near Choma.

365. Southern Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris chalbeus Only noted at Cape
of Good Hope.

366. Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis A few sightings,
first noted at Drotsky's Camp.

367. Purple-banded Sunbird Cinnyris bifasciatus A couple at
Drotsky's and a couple in the Caprivi.

368. Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris A few seen at
Katimo Mulilo.

369. White-bellied Sunbird Nectarinia talatala A few seen ,
first at Etosha.

370. Dusky Sunbird Nectarinia fusca fusca First noted at
Poffadder, very common thereafter. More often than not, any flicker of movement
anywhere in it's range turned out to be this species.

371. Great Sparrow Passer motitensis First noted at Oppi
Koppi, Kamanjan where common.

372. Cape Sparrow Passer malanurus Very common

373. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Seen in a
few urban areas.

374. Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus Occasional, first at
Kunene.

375. White-browed Sparrow Weaver Plocepasser mahali Common.

376. Sociable Weaver Philetairus socius Very common and we
searched dozens of the huge colonies in our quest for Pygmy Falcon.

377. Red-billed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis niger Common within range,
one colony even above a car park in a shopping area in Divundu.

378. Thick-billed Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons A few seen in
Zambia.

379. Cape Weaver Ploceus capensis Common in the cape.

380. Southern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus xanthopterus Only noted at
Drotsky's Camp.

381. African (Holub's) Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops A couple of
sightings, first at Kunene where they were nesting on the river bank right next
to the dining platform.

382. Southern Masked Weaver Ploceua velatus Common, first noted
at our airport hotel in Cape Town.

383. Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius A colony found
near Mariental next to a small stream and other birds coming to drink at the
garden pool at River Chalet's also in Mariental were the only sightings.

384. Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis First seen at Kunene
where there is an isolated population, seen again further east at Ngepi Lodge.

385. Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes melanotis A few sightings,
first at Kunene.

386. Red-billed Quelea Quelia quelia Occasional, first noted
at Sossusvlei.

387. Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer A few seen in the
Caprivi.

388. Southern Red Bishop Euplectes
orix
Fiarly common, the females had us scratching
our heads until we saw them with males.

389. Yellow Bishop (Cape Widowbird) Euplectes capensis One sighting near
De Hoop.

390. White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus One only, at
Bruce Miller Farm in the same
field as the Chaplin's Barbet in Zambia.

391. Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura Only noted in
Mariental near River Chalet's.

392. Shaft-tailed Whydah Vidua regia A few seen, first noted
at Oppi Koppi, Kamanjab.

393. Long-tailed Paradise Whydah Vidua paradisea Several noted on the
transit road through Chobe.

394. Bronze Mannikin Spermestes cucullatus Only seen in
the Gardens of Mowena lodge, Kasane, Botswana.

395. Red-headed Finch Amadina erythrocephala A bit unlikely
but only one seen and that was a female at Etosha.

396. Scaly-feathered Finch Sporopipes squamifrons Very common,
first seen at Koa Dunes.

397. Blue-Waxbill Uraeginthus angolensis First seen at
Namutoni in Etosha, common therafter.

398. Violet-eared Waxbill Granatina granatina First seen at
Oppi Koppi, Kamanjab, occasional thereafter.

399. Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Only noted at River Chalet's, Mariental
and Kirstenbosch.

400. Cinderella Waxbill Estrilda thomensis A frustrating
glimpse of two birds leaving a bush the instant they were located was the only
sign.....gotta go back I guess!
The river here which is best searched when dry, had been replenished by
recent rain though it was by no means a torrent. The availability of alternate
water sources makes them a lot less reliable and Peter can almost guarantee
good sightings when it's dry. Peter was in fact almost as distressed as myself
that his 'strike rate' had taken a b it of a knock.

401. Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotus A small group
on our second visit to Oppi Koppi in Kamanjan was the only sighting.

402. Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba A few sightings, first
was at Roy's Camp in the Caprivi.

403. Jameson's Firefinch Lagonosticta rhodopareia Seen at
Kunene and Ngepi Lodge.

404. Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta seenegala Only noted at
Kunene.

405. Brown Firefinch Lagonosticta nitidula Numerous
sightings including photographs of birds at Ngepi Lodge.

406. White-throated Canary Crithagra albogularis A few seen at
Poffadder.

407. Streaky-headed Seedeater Crithagra gularis A single at
Kransvleipoort.

408. Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambica Seen at Masuko
Lodge on the Bruce Miller Fram in Zambia.

409. Black-throated Canary Crithagra atrogularis Common around
Poffadder.

410. Yellow Canary Crithagra flaviventris First seen at
Poffadder, a few thereafter.

411. Cape Canary Serinus canicollis Common in the
Cape.

412. Forest Canary Crithagra scotops One seen well at
Kirstenbosch was the only sighting.

413. Black-headed Canary Serinus alario A few around
Poffadder.

414. Damara Canary Serinus leucolaemus Only seen at
Klein Aus Vista Lodge at Sossusvlei where common around the small feeders.

415. Cape Siskin Crithagra totta Only one seen at Cape
of Good Hope.

416. Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani Very common within
range.

417. Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis First seen at West
Coast National Park, a few thereafter.

418. Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris Several
sightings, first seen at Oppi Koppi, Kamanjab.



















Mammals



Remarkably and disappointingly, not a
single cat or Hyena was
observed. We put this down to the
fact that there had been some rain which had dispersed the prey animals further
afield and the predators go where they go. Having said this, people were
connecting with cats but not often.



Nomenclature and
taxonomical order follow ‘ The
Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals’. Other taxonomic notes are included for
completeness only.



Chacma Baboon Papio hamadryas Firsts seen in the
Cape area race ursinus or Cape Chacma and occasional thereafter. Three races are recognised by some, in
the Kunene area race ruacana or Ruacane Chacma is present. This is not stated in Kingdon which
simply says 'regional populations may be distinct sub-species'.

Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus
aethiops
First seen at Kunene, a few in the Caprivi.

Angola Fruit Bat Lissonycteris angolensis Photographed
at Kunene River Lodge as they fed from the tree above our tent.

Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis Regular especially at
night on the road at Witsand.

South African
Ground Squirrel
Xerus inauris Only seen inside Etosha where occasional, often in
groups.

Striped Bush
Squirrel
Paraxerus flavovittis A couple seen in Namibia.

Smith's Bush
Squirrel
Paraxerus cepapi A couple seen in Namibia.

Spring Hare Pedetes capensis Only seen at night at Witsand where common but very shy on the road.


South African
Porcupine
Hystrix africaeaustralis Best views were of habituated animals being
fed at 'Porcupine Camp' Kamanjab then another ran across the road at Witsand on
a night drive.

Four-striped Grass
Mouse
Rhabdomys
pumilio
Only seen at Karro N.P where they will feed from your hand. They destroyed out tent when they
deposited young and gnawed holes in the outer cover after it was left on the
ground for 24 hours.

Black-backed
Jackal
Canis mesomelas Fairly regular, first seen in Etosha where common.
They had even breached the security fence around Okakuejo camp ground and were
seen inside with young.

Ratel /Honey
Badger
Mellivora capensis Just one, unfortunately it was dead on the road in
Namibia.

Small Grey
Mongoose
Herpestes pulverulenta Several seen dashing across roads in the Cape.

Yellow Mongoose Cynictis
penicillata
Only seen in Etosha, on one occasion, one was confronted in the middle
of the road by an Ant-eating Chat and a brief stand off ensued.

Suricate / Meerkat
Suricata
suricata
Just one sighting of a family which seemed to be living in a boulder
pile at the side of the main N7 highway in S.A. about 4 km south of Steinkop on
the northbound side of the road.
They were visible from some distance as they stood on top of the rocks. They disappeared when we stopped the
car but we climbed the bank at the other side of the road and they eventually
came back out giving good views.

Banded Mongoose Mungos mungoOnly seen in
Etosha. On one occasion, a small
party when foraging around Namutoni camp ground, found their way in to the
grill of our car and were watched as they made a meal of all the tasty insects
in there.

Common Genet Genetta genetta One animal was seen
in headlights on the table in front of out tent at Witsand as we arrived back
in the car after a night drive.

Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis Taxonomy is uncertain
and field I.D isn't easy when trying to separate any of the three proposed
races. Seen at Augrabies,
Spitzkoppe and Kransvliepoort.

African Elephant Loxodonta africana
A
herd seen in Etosha but greatest numbers were seen as we drove the transit road
through Chobe NB where they were common.

Burchell’s Zebra Equus burchellii Good numbers seen
inside Etosha and Mahango.

Cape Mountain
Zebra
Equs
zebra
Two
seen at Karoo National Park, S.A

Black Rhinoceros Diceros bicornis A minimum of four
different animals seen at the water hole at Halali in Etosha. Another dashed across the road near the
gates of Halaili as we came back from Okakuejo at night after Anastasia's
Scorpion sting.

Hippopotamus Hippopotamus
amphibious
First seen on the Okavango as two animals dashed from the river side
vegetation in to the water creating a near tidal wave. Great views were had
here as our boat driver used all his experience to prevent these beasts from
stealthily approaching our boat under water which they did seem to be trying to
do. Another single animal was found basking in mud in Mahango.

Common Warthog Phacochoerus
africanus
Occasional throughout.

Giraffe Giraffa
camelopardalis
First seen en-route to Kunene when three, occasional in Etosha after that.

African (Cape)
Buffalo
Syncerus caffer Two in Mahango then a party of four were watched
trying to see off a single male in Chobe.

Bushbuck Tragelaphus
scriptus
Only seen at Drotsky's Camp where the brightly coloured race ornatus was common. This race is sometimes called 'Chobe'
Bushbuck
.

Greater Kudu Tragelaphus
strepsiceros
Occasional in most suitable habitat.

Cape Grysbok Raphicerus
melanotis
Only seen at De Hoop N.R.

Steinbuck Raphicerus
campestris
Only a couple seen in Etosha.

Klipspringer Oreotragus
oreotragus
Only seen at Spitzkoppe.

Southern Reedbuck Redunca arundinum A small group seen at
Mahango.

Lechwe Kobus leche Seen in good numbers
but only in Mahango. This race K.l lechwe is sometimes called Red
Lechwe.


Springbuck Antidorcas
marsupialis
Common throughout.

(Common) Impala Aepyceros melampus
Noted
in Etosha where the distinctive race A. m. petersi treated by some as a
full species Black-faced Impala was seen at the water hole at
Okakuejo.. This race was almost
extinct until 310 animals were moved in to Etosha for protection between
1969-71. The nominate form was seen only at Mahango.

Bontebok Damaliscus dorcas Only seen near De
Hoop when three.

Kongoni
(Hartebeest)
A few seen at Karoo NP were of the race caama called a Khama by some.

Brindled Gnu / Wildebeest
Connochaetes
taurinus
Common in Etosha.

Sable Antelope Hippotragus niger Just one male seen as
he browsed quietly in dense vegetation in Mahango.

Southern Oryx
(Gemsbok)
Oryx gazelle Fairly regular.



Reptiles



Nomenclature and
taxonomical order follow Alexander
and Marais‘ A guide to the reptiles of Southern Africa'.



Black Mamba Dendroaspis
polylepis
One of the World's deadliest snakes, one was found fatally injured on
the road near Choma, Zambia. I
poked it with my tripod to ascertain it's condition before picking it up,
perhaps foolishly. I opened it's
mouth to examine the inky black inner mouth which gives the snake it's name
before stretching it out on the ground to try and estimate length (c2.5m) at
which point it wrapped it's tail around my arm!

Southern Rock
Agama
Agama
atra
Seen
at Cape Point and Karoo NP.

Namibian Rock
Agama
Agama
planiceps
This spectacular Lizard was first seen at Kamanjab then very common in
the Kunene area.

Flap-necked
Chameleon
Chamaeleo
dilepis
First seen at
Kamanjab where it was seen to try and catch an insect with it's long
tongue. Two sightings thereafter
both involved animals crossing the road, in Etosha and one in Zambia. In Zambia, a local Lady watched as I
picked it up from the road and said 'it makes me afraid', there are local
superstitions regarding these animals so I was careful to release it where it
wouldn't be killed.
<