Many trip reports cover these 2 regions (Rheindt, Hofland, Bale, John & Jemi, Hornbuckle, Holt, Anderson, Collaerts, Sargeant, Birdquest and Tropical Birding...), as we mostly travelled by bus we'll give details about our travelling and the list of the birds seen. John & Jemi, Alister Benn, Jesper Hornskov kindly answered to our emails and gave us some informations, and Mark Van Beirs sent us some sounds; we had the CD of the Tropical Birds of Asia, and the good websites where we found many others sounds:
http://www.xeno-canto.org/asia/browse.php
http://www.bl.uk/listentonature/soundsloc/210chinajapan.html,
http://ibc.lynxeds.com/
The change was around 1 euro = 8,85RMB, there are ATMs in most of the towns; it was an easy trip, people are helpful and the bus system is efficient, the buses leave on time. We felt secure everywhere. No need of speaking chinese, a small dictionnary was OK, ane with the time you’ll learn useful words like bus (gonggongtchidze). Most of our hotels were good ones (although all of them had problems of plumbery, with free mineral water or boiled water, a budget birder will have a choice of cheaper places to sleep. Like in all our trips, we bring plastic boxes that we fill during diner for our next lunch; we had coffee and biscuits in our room for breakfast.
All these warblers splits were a nightmare to identify, and to be sincere once we had identify a species somewhere we did not often try to look for it after; we saw much more than identified, but sometimes we just couldn’t make any difference between the seicercus (the phylloscopus are not easier). So when we doubted, we didn’t tick, but the mistake is always possible.
We took our time during these holidays, and didn’t bird all the day, we approximatively birded 8 hours per day, but the daylight was around 14 hours. Our list of 379 birds seen + 5 heard only is poor compared to the time we stayed in the country, but we did not bird any water place (ducks and waders generally lengthen a list), and a lot of time was lost when we went to the Aba Region for finally being refused and lost all the high altitude species. Anyway we enjoyed our trip very much.
Of course we have some regrets as always after a birding trip, for example we should have done the Xima track in Nabang at least 2 times; we should have spent another day in the mountains of Lijiang, maybe sleeping in that big touristic hotel and try harder to see the Rufous-tailed Babbler; the preoccupation of where to be for the 1st of may made us leave the area. Those wanting to stay 1 month in Yunnan could visit the south (Xishuangbanna) to add other birds.
In 26 days we spent for 2 persons 1100€, only 800€ if we don’t count the 2 internal flights, with mid-class hotels. In Sichuan we spent 2100€ for 2 in 40 days.
Sites visited in Yunnan in 26 days (2 to 29/04) :
KUNMING – RUILI – YINGJIANG – NABANG – TENGCHONG – DALI – LIJIANG.
Sites visited in Sichuan in 40 days (31/05 to 7/06) :
LABAHE – WAWUSHAN – EMEISHAN – CHENGDU – WANGLANG – JIUZHAIGOU – RUO’ERGAÏ (briefly) – BIFENGXIA.
YUNNAN
Nice weather during the month, just a few hours of rain in Tengchong, and a storm in Ruili.
KUNMING
We stayed at Camellia Hotel pre-booked on their website, 120RMB with a huge breakfast included, but it was in the Youth hostel and the room was bleak.
We visited XISHAN 2 days; the hotel can show you where to take the bus n°54 for 1RMB to the terminal, from there the bus n°6 to Xishan for the same price, it takes around 1h15 to 1h30, by taxi it is much quicker around 40 minutes but it costs 60RMB. From the entrance we walked all the way up to the summit following the road and the trails, passing through the Dragon's Gate; the Godlewski's Bunting and the Russet Sparrow are in the area of the Miniature Stone Forest; the second day we went up with the minibus and then the cable car. It is very popular but we could manage to see a few birds, 27 species.
Birds: Darjeeling Woodpecker, House Swift, Common Buzzard, Common Kestrel, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Pale Blue-Flycatcher, Great Tit, Black-throated Tit, Barn Swallow, Brown-breasted Bulbul, Crested Finchbill, Striated Prinia, Yellow-browed Warbler, Mountain Tailorbird, Blyth’s Leaf-warbler, Bianchi’s Warbler, Red-faced Liocichla, Red-billed Leiothrix, Blue-winged Minla, Spectacled Fulvetta, Rusty-capped Fulvetta, Gould’s Sunbird, Japanese White-Eye, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, White Wagtail, Vinaceous Rosefinch, Godlewski’s Bunting.
RUILI (5 to 9/04, 115 species)
We flew for 610RMB (sunday's discount) from Kunming to Mangshi (but it can be done by bus), at the airport we took a shared taxi to Ruili for 90RMB per person. Here the taxi driver led us to the luxuous Europe Park Hotel where he bargained a room for us from 320RMB to 130. We stayed 6 nights; we were lucky because we could rent a motorbike at the hotel desk for 50RMB per day, that allowed us to be free and visit the birdwatching sites alone. Ruili is a big town, and there are many hotels.
1-THE PUMPHOUSE
Hornuckle's trip report is still accurate, and we easily found the site; his describes a triple junction, in fact at a big stone with red signs, there are 2 tracks on the right, take the left one, follow it, overlooking the fields, several electric pylons (Collared Myna seen several times), still straight, passing houses with blue roofs; once passed the stream just before the pump station, we took the took the dirt road on the left , going up through fields in terrace for 2,6km. After a deep ascent you arrive to a patch of pines on the right side, here there is a small trail on the right, we parked the motorbike here, followed the trail until the big concrete reservoir, and then birded the forest longing the canal on the left. Very good birding; we met Jesper Hornskov and his group here.
2-NANJINGLI RIDGE
From town still with the motorbike it's about 30mn until the tunnel where we turned on the gravel road on the right. Our best birding was on the trail on the right at the 1st left bend of the road. We had a police control, we showed the receipt for the motorbike rental and had no problems.
3-MOLI WATERFALL
Closer from town that said in the reports, took the road to Mangshi, turned left before the big bridge on the cobbled road for about 2Km then on the left road going up to the entrance of the forest reserve and waterfall (50RMB/pers). We had a big storm during our visit, but added new birds.
4-JIELE RESERVOIR
Visited when we came back from the waterfall, leaving the main road leading to Ruili for the right one at the fork, the Juili Temple is visible from far; once at the temple we turned right at the second street, then straight to the gate where we had to pay 3RMB/pers. No ducks on the water, but added other birds.
Birds: Red Junglefowl, Spot-billed Duck, Speckled Piculet, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Great Barbet, Blue-throated Barbet, Hodgson’s Treecreeper, Common+White-throated+Pied Kingfisher, Blue-throated Bee-eater, Drongo Cuckoo, Green-billed Malkoha, Lesser Coucal, Indian + Violet Cuckoo, Asian Palm Swift, Large-tailed Nightjar (killed on the cobbled road) Oriental Turtle-Dove, Emerald Dove, Common Moorhen, Common Sandpiper, Little-ringed Plover, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Crested Goshawk, Common Kestrel, Little Grebe, Little+Great Cormorant, Little + Intermediate+Great+Cattle Egret, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Long-tailed Broadbill, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Burmese+Long-tailed Shrike, Grey Treepie, Maroon Oriole, Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike, Rosy+Grey-chinned+Scarlet Minivet, Black+Ashy+Lesser Racket-tailed+ Bronzed Drongo, White-throated Fantail, Black-naped Monarch, Asian Paradise-Flycatcher, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Orange-headed+Black-breasted Thrush, Eurasian Blackbird, Lesser Shortwing, White-tailed Robin, White-capped+Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Red-throated+Little Pied+Verditer Flycatcher, Hill Blue-Flycatcher, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Black-backed+Slaty-backed+White-crowned Forktail, Pied+Grey Bushchat, Collared Myna, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Red-rumped Swallow, Striated+Black-crested+Red-whiskered+Red-vented+Flavescent Bulbul, Crested Finchbill, White-throated+Ashy+Black Bulbul, Hill+Grey-breasted Prinia, Yellow-browed Warbler, Greenish Warbler, Mountain Tailorbird, White-tailed Leaf-Warbler, Greater Necklaced+White-browed Laughingthrush, Red-faced Liocichla, Puff-throated Babbler, Streak-breasted+Red-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Limestone Wren-Babbler, Golden+Grey-throated+Spot-necked Babbler, Silver-eared Mesia, Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Long-tailed Sibia, Striated Yuhina, Whiskered+White-bellied Yuhina, Grey-headed Parrotbill, Black-throated Sunbird, Streaked Spiderhunter, Japanese White-Eye, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Ashy Woodswallow.
YINGJIANG (1 aft+1 mor, 67 species)
From Ruili : a taxi 5RMB from hotel to bus station, then a bus to Yingjiang (32RMB/pers), 3h35 of trip. At Yingjiang's bus station, taxi 5RMB to Xianghe Hotel, 120RMB.
Following Holt's report, getting off the hotel took left in the street, becoming a track passing through an area of contructions, then of agricultural fields, and fish ponds before arriving to the river; we walked on the raised trail on the right overhanging the fields on the right side; good birding.
Birds: Ruddy Shelduck, Spot-billed Duck, Eurasian Wryneck, White-browed Piculet, Bay Woodpecker, Blue-throated Barbet, Common+White-throated+Pied Kingfisher, Greater Coucal, Plaintive Cuckoo, Himalayan Swiftlet, House Swift, Oriental Turtle-Dove, White-breasted Waterhen, Common Moorhen, Wood Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover, River Tern, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Little+Intermediate +Cattle Egret, Chinese Pond-Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Long-tailed Shrike, Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike, Rosy+Grey-chinned Minivet, Black+Ashy Drongo, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Black-breasted Thrush, Hill Blue-Flycatcher, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Common Stonechat, Pied Bushchat, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Coal Tit, Great Tit, Barn Swallow, Asian House Martin, Collared Myna, Red-whiskered+Red-vented Bulbul, Black Bulbul, Striated Prinia, Grey-breasted Prinia, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Dusky Warbler, Yellow-browed Warbler, Tickell’s Leaf-Warbler, common Tailorbird, Yellow-bellied Warbler, White-browed Laughinthrush, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Japanese White-Eye, White-rumped Munia, Scaly-breasted Munia, Indian Black-headed Munia, Russet Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Citrine+Grey Wagtail, Paddyfield+Olive-backed Pipit, Common Rosefinch.
NABANG ((12 to 14/04, 75 species)
From Yingjiang : taxi 5RMB to the minibus station, minibus 25RMB to Nabang, 2 hours. Bian Chi Hotel, 80RMB, a few meters from the minibus station.
In retrospect we wonder why we didn't go twice to the Xima track as we had very good species; sometimes you have in mind that you have to leave because birds are waitng for you at the next site, and you stupidely hurry.
1-XIMA TRACK (54 species)
We couldn't rent a motorbike so asked to one of the motor tricycles waiting at the hotel to take us the following morning to the Xima track, the drivers know where it is, it cost 40RMB, we arranged him to come back in the afternoon for the same price. Walking back down from the bottom of the Xima track takes 45mn.
The tricycle could bring us until km 4,5, when there was a muddy part, and we followed the track on foot; the forest is better after km8, and we saw the Green and Purple Cochoas between km8 and 9. Heard Grey Peacock-pheasant, seen a Great Hornbill. We had no time to go after post 9. The best birding was between 11am and 3pm... and surprisingly we did not see or hear any warbler.
2-RONG SHU WANG
From town we asked to the same tricycle to take us until the begining of the cobbled road to Rong Shu Wang, they know the place, wich is about 16km from Nabang on the Yingjiang road (40RMB). It is also possible to take the bus to Yingjiang leaving from the other side of the hotel, check the departure times, they leave on time, and ask to stop there. The birding was not bad on this road, with Pin-tailed Green-Pigeon and Mountain Imperial Pigeon in early morning; the road leads at 4km (announced but it seemed shorter) to the Big Tree, where you pay 2RMB/pers; from the bottom of the stairs we took the track on the right, and followed it in the good forest (reaching a deforestation area), very good with Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbills, Rufous-throated Pardridges... only 2 warblers : the Dusky and Rufous-faced.
Birds: Rufous-throated Partridge, Red Junglefowl, Grey Peacock-Pheasant (heard), Speckled Piculet, White-browed Piculet, Great+Blue-throated Barbet, Great Hornbill, White-throated Kingfisher, Common Hoopoe, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Drongo Cuckoo, Indian Cuckoo, Banded Bay Cuckoo, Asian Palm Swift, Oriental Turtle-Dove, Emerald Dove, Thick-billed Green-Pigeon, Pin-tailed Green-Pigeon, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Long-tailed Broadbill, Blue-winged Leafbird, Burmese Shrike, Long-tailed Shrike, Indochinese Green Magpie, Grey Treepie, Collared Treepie, Black-hooded Oriole, Maroon Oriole, Scarlet Minivet, Black+Ashy+Bronzed +Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Black-naped Monarch, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Orange-headed Thrush, Red-throated Flycatcher, Hill Blue-Flycatcher, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Slaty-backed Forktail, Purple+Green Cochoa, Common Stonechat, Pied Bushchat, Crested Myna, Striated Swallow, Black-crested+Red-whiskered+Red-vented Bulbul, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, flavescent+White-throated+Black Bulbul, Dusky Warbler, Common Tailorbird, Rufous-faced Warbler, White-crested+Lesser-necklaced+Black-throated Laughingthrush, Puff-throated Babbler, Red-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Golden Babbler, Grey-throated Babbler, Long-tailed Sibia, Striated Yuhina, Nepal Fulvetta, White-bellied Yuhina, Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill, Streaked Spiderhunter, Japanese White-Eye, White-rumped Munia, Olive-backed Pipit.
TENGCHONG
From Nabang bus at 8:40am to Yingjiang (22RMB), then bus to Tengchong (23RMB), arrived at 1pm. At the bus station only motorbike taxis, we took 2 of them and looked for a hotel, 6 were fully booked, we found the Shuang Hong Hotel, overpriced at 480RMB, we had the room for 140RMB. The taxi fare in town is 5RMB.
1-LAIFENGSHAN PARK (1 day, 52 species)
Entrance 6RMB/pers, ticket office open from 8am to 5:30pm, but you can enter before that time and stay longer without paying. Very good birding the 1st afternoon, slow the 2nd afternoon after a rainy morning; several trails to explore, the temple at the top is good for warblers that you can see from above.
Birds: Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Great Barbet, Blue-throated Barbet, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Eurasian Cuckoo, Oriental Turtle-Dove, Emerald Dove, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Eurasian Jay, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Grey Treepie, Black-naped Oriole, Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike, Grey-chinned Minivet, Ashy Drongo, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Black-breasted Thrush, Red-throated Flycatcher, Little Pied Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Hill Blue-Flycatcher, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Grey Bushchat, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Great Tit, Black-throated Tit, Barn Swallow, Black Bulbul, Dusky Warbler, Ashy-throated Warbler, Hume’s Warbler, Tickell’s Leaf-Warbler, Buff-barred Warbler, Bianchi’s Warbler, White-browed Laughingthrush, Red-faced Liocichla, Black-streaked Scimitar-Babbler, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Silver-eared Mesia, Blue-winged Minla, Red-tailed Minla, Chinese Babax, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Black-headed Sibia, Brown-winged Parrotbill, Japanese White-Eye, Russet Sparrow, White Wagtail.
2-YUFENGSHAN (1 day 1/2, 36 species)
Taxi 5RMB to bus station, from there a bus 12RMB/pers until a village where shared taxis are waiting, 10RMB/pers until the cable car (return price is 100RMB/pers, a meal is offered in a wooden hut when you come back down). Arrived at the top of the cable car, we climbed the 500 stairs until the monastery where we asked if we could sleep, and they showed us a room with several beds where we left our luggage and went to bird. We didn't understand the Rheindt or Hornbuckle reports and never found the trail that they describe. Being french our english is limited and we understood that it was behind or skirting around the monastery, but we saw only one trail leaving from the first temple at the bottom of the stairs and it was cut by a landslide; New buildings are being constructed, people working there cut the trees in the forest, and many mules go up and down carrying the materials; all this made the forest rather disturbed. So we took the trail going back down, leaving from the cable car station (a few stairs up then descending), and tryed all the trails in the forest that we could find; most of them didn't go far, and one on the left (at a red sign) was going down the valley in degraded forest and was used by the mules, so we saw very few. Anyway the first afternoon the birding was good and we were expecting a lot of the following day, but it was very slow despite the nice weather. We sadly missed the specialities seen by the others like the Shrike-babblers, and the Long-tailed Scimitar-Babbler, and saw only the Grey-cheeked Fulvetta. We’ll add that in the evening, they didn’t leave us sleep in the same room, and where separed : the women douwnstairs, the men upstairs. We didn’t appreciate !
Birds: Golden-throated Barbet, Oriental Cuckoo (heard), Collared Owlet (heard), Black Eagle, Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike, Short-billed Minivet, Ashy Drongo, Yellow-bellied Fantail, White-throated Fantail, Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush, Daurian Redstart, Little Pied Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Pale Blue-Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Green-backed Tit, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Black-throated Tit, Mountain Bulbul, Grey-bellied Tesia, Mountain Tailorbird, White-tailed Leaf-Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Black-faced Warbler, Black-streaked Scimitar-Babbler, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Rufous-capped Babbler, Golden Babbler, Red-billed Leiothrix, Chestnut-tailed + Red-tailed Minla, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Whiskered Yuhina, Gould’s Sunbird, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Black-headed Siskin.
When we left Tengchong for Dali by bus, there was a very nice and big forest about 1h30 after departure, we even saw a concrete sign speaking of protected area but couldn't read the name, and we were very desappointed to miss a stop here; we don't know if there is the possibility to sleep somewhere. Gaoligongshan was definitely too expensive for us, so we decided not to go to this park.
DALI
From Tengchong bus to Baoshan 4 hours 48RMB, then Baoshan to Dali Xiantang 3 hours 60RMB, then taxi to Old Dali 40RMB. We stayed at MCA Guesthouse, 1OORMB, they speak english and are very helpfull.
CANGSHAN MOUNTAIN (20-23/04; 67 species)
The entrance fee is 30RMB, chairlift 60RMB return. We took the chairlift until the temple, then the tiring stairs until the Highlander Inn (70RMB). Between the temple and the Hotel, the paved Cloudy Tourist Road is very good on the two sides and there is a good trail leading from the hotel to the summit with different birds. To see the Lady Amherst’s Pheasant we went at dawn to a place where we had heard it the previous evening; the male was calling down the slope, we descended slowly toward the bird, and saw it still perched on a pine branch, great view!
Birds: Lady Amherst’s Pheasant, Speckled Piculet, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Himalayan Swiftlet, Fork-tailed Swift, House Swift, Crested Goshawk, Common Buzzard, Peregrine Falcon, Spotted Nutcracker, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Scaly+Black-breasted Thrush, Grey-winged Blackbird, Lesser Shortwing (heard), White-browed Shortwing, Golden Bush-Robin, White-browed Bush-Robin (heard), Daurian Redstart, Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Red-throated Flycatcher, Ultramarine Flycatcher, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Little Forktail, Green-backed Tit, Rufous-vented Tit, Long-tailed Tit, Black-browed Tit, Red-rumped Swallow, Asian House Martin, Brown-breasted Bulbul, Dusky Warbler, Grey-sided Bush-Warbler, Hume’s Warbler, Large-billed Leaf-Warbler, Blyth’s + White-tailed Leaf-Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Elliott’s+Red-tailed+Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Black-streaked+Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Pygmy+Bar-winged Wren-Babbler, Rufous-capped Babbler, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Chinese Babax, Green Shrike-Babbler, White-browed+Rusty-capped Fluvetta, Black-headed Sibia, White-naped+White-collared +Rufous-vented Yuhina, Stripe-throated Yuhina, Gould’s Sunbird, Oriental+Japanese White-Eye, White Wagtail, Olive-backed Pipit, Tibetan+Black-headed Siskin, Long-tailed+Blandford’s Rosefinch.
LIJIANG (26 to 28/04)
From Dali bus to Lijiang 40RMB (ticket booked by hotel), 4 hours. Hotel MCA booked by the MCA hotel in Dali, 80RMB, just outside (2mn) the old town, quiet, and overlooking the town. The taxi fare in town is 7RMB.
1-BLACK DRAGON POOL PARK (3 hours, 21sp)
Just above our hotel, there is probably a trail getting inside the park ; we took a taxi until the main entrance where we had to pay 80RMB, it is expensive for what is more a public garden than a park; we didn't stay long;
Birds: Eurasian Wryneck, Oriental Cuckoo, Little Grebe, Long-tailed Minivet, Ashy Drongo, Red-throated Flycatcher, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Yunnan Nuthatch, Great Tit+Black-throated Tit, Brown-breasted Bulbul, White-tailed Leaf-Warbler, White-browed Laughingthrush, Black-streaked Scimitar-Babbler, Red-billed Leiothrix, Spectacled Fulvetta, Japanese White-Eye, White Wagtail, Black-headed Siskin, Godlewski’s Bunting.
2-THE 1st BEND OF THE YANGTZE RIVER (3 hours, 20sp)
To get there, taxi to the long-distance bus station, took a bus to Shigu at 10am for 10RMB/pers. It took 1h30 until Shigu, where we dropped off in the center where there are restaurants and food stalls; we saw the Yunnan Parrotbills, not along the Yangtze river, but along an arm of the river : following the main street for about 50m until the bridge, taking left before this bridge, paid 10RMB/pers to cross a small wooden bridge; then on the left we followed a path along the river with some willow vegetation, we had 2 flocks of Parrotbills there ; back to Lijiang by a minivan waiting in the main street (15RM/pers).
Birds: Common Kingfisher, Oriental Turtle-Dove, Common Sandpiper, Daurian Redstart, Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Red-throated Flycatcher, Common Stonechat, Black-throated Tit, Barn Swallow, Asian House Martin, Brown-breasted Bulbul, Yellow-streaked Warbler, Yunnan Parrotbill, Gould’s Sunbird, Japanese White-Eye, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Russet Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, White Wagtail, Beautiful Rosefinch.
3-YULONG XUESHANG (JADE DRAGON SNOW MOUNTAIN) (6 hours, 20sp)
Buses or minibuses n°7 go there, 10RMB by bus, minibus depending on how many persons are inside, it can be 15 or 20RMB. Your hotel will explain where the buses are, close to the Mao’s statue.
We had to pay an entrance fee of 80RMB at a toll-gate, and once arrived at a huge tourist complex there is a ticket office for the chairlift, wich includes the bus leading to it; if you're not taking the chairlift, they don't want you to take the bus; like Dave Sargeant we tried to walk on the road, but were stopped by the guards; so we walked inside the forest facing the complex during 6 hours, very nice habitat but sadly no Rufous-tailed Babblers in the bushes.
Birds: Common Pheasant, Common Hoopoe, Grey-backed Shrike, Large-billed Crow, Daurian Redstart, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Yunnan Nuthatch, Coal+Grey-crested+Black-browed Tit, Yellow-browed Warbler, Tickell’s Leaf-Warbler, Elliott’s Laughingthrush, White-collared Yuhina, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, White Wagtail, Tibetan Siskin, Black-headed Siskin, Yellow-throated Bunting, Godlewski’s Bunting.
SICHUAN
We flew from Lijiang to Chengdu the 29/03 for 750RMB
LABAHE NATURE RESERVE (ERLANGSHAN MOUNTAIN) (3,5 days (53 species)
From 30/04 to 4/05 to avoid the crowd of the 1st of may week-end)
From Chengdu airport, taxi 10RMB to bus station, bus to Ya'an at 12:50, 2 hours (43RMB), then bus to Tianquan (12RMB, prononced Tiantchouan). Many roadworks so we stopped a lot, but it should be around 1:30h drive. In Tianquian, Chuan Da Hotel, negociated 120RMB, breakfast included, shower inondating the bathroom.
Found at the bus station a minivan taking us to Labahe for 140RMB (taxis wanted 200); we paid 50RMB at the ticket office, and the driver headed to km22 at the hotel described in J&J's report; we kept his phone n° for the way back; the small room with shared bathroom was 200RMB, expensive but couldn't have a discount.
We were alone the evening of the 30th, many people arrived the 1st, a few stayed the 2nd and we were alone the 3rd. We tried several sites :
− walking on the track from our hotel up to the boardwalk (it takes 2 to 3 hours depending on the birds)
− an old track going inside a fenced area fom this road,
− the boardwalk,
− the trail from the upper hotel at km 25,
− the interesting trail circling from the hotel in construction (seems to be stopped), best to start further up on the right side of the road with the stairs and coming back down to the hotel.
− the trail along the river from the bridge between km23 and 24,
− the road between km22 and km25.
Most of the birds seen were on the road to the boardwalk and on the boardwalk (Red Panda), but all the other areas gave some birds. We tried to find the Streaked Barwing at the Baigelin hotel where D. Sargeant and B. Anderson saw it, but the hotel was closed and they never let us go until the bungalow n°1; we tried a path from the road going up until this bungalow and had a quick look but couldn't stay long; we checked the area around, trying 3 different days in vain. We liked this place very much.
Birds: Temminck’s Tragopan, Lady Amherst’s Pheasant, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Fork-tailed Swift, White-breasted Waterhen, Wood Sandpiper, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Crested Goshawk, Besra, Common Buzzard, Cattle Egret, Grey-backed Shrike, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Large-billed Crow, Long-tailed Minivet, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Lesser Shortwing (heard), Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, Blue-fronted Redstart, White-capped+Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Brown Dipper, Coal+Green-backed+Yellow-browed Tit, Père David’s Tit, Asian House-Martin, Collared Finchbill, Brownish-flanked+Yellowish-bellied Bush-Warbler, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Aberrant Bush-Warbler, Large-billed Leaf-Warbler, Black-streaked Scimitar-Babbler, Pygmy Wren-Babbler, Rufous-capped Babbler, Red-billed Leiothrix, Golden-breasted+Streak-throated Fulvetta, White-naped+Stripe-throated Yuhina, Great+Brown+Fulvous+Golden Parrotbill, Gould’s Sunbird, White+Grey Wagtail, Rosy Pipit, Little Bunting, Godlewski’s Bunting.
The staff in Labahe called our taxi the day before departure and it was there on time (9am), went toTianquian where we caught the 10:30 bus for Ya'an. We stopped there because we had a few things to buy and repair, the taxi driver took us to the Ibis Hotel, 138RMB. It is well situated in the center along the river and a nice large bridge with pagodas with teashops. There is a big supermarket in town.
WAWUSHAN (5 to 12/05, 75 species)
From Ya'an, taxi 3RMB to the bus station, bus to Hongya at 8:40am (14RMB, 2 hours); then bus at 10:55 to Wawushan (28RMB), 3h30). There is apparently a 45km road from Ya'an connecting the Wawushan road 15km from the park, but it seemed closed, anyway ask at Ya'an's bus station.
The bus stopped at 200m from the park's gate, where there are several hotels; at the gate we paid 52RMB/pers the entrance, + 40RMB/pers for the 22kms return lift until the cable car base and the hotel; the standard room in the main building is 268RMB in this decrepit hotel, but we negociated it for 200, wich was still expensive as there was only cold water; stayed 5 nights; anyway the view on the mountains from the room was great the few times without mist.
We walked one morning on the trail starting from the bottom of the hotel stairs, very muddy and overgrown, not easy; we saw only a female Temminck's Tragopan and heard the Spotted Laughingthrush; very misty, then rain in the afternoon, we gave up.
We went 3 mornings to the top, looking for the Parrotbills, all in all had only 2 bright hours, otherwise misty, and rain after 11am or noon. Had Fulvous, Great, Brown and Three-toed Parrotbills, sadly not the others; Sichuan and Hogdson's Treecreeper, Brown Bush-Warbler at the flat bamboo zone, Aberrant Bush-Warbler and Buff-barred Warbler very common; Red Panda close to the temple.
One day walking down the road in thick fog then rain, Red-winged Laughingthrush, Claudia's and Large-billed Warbler, Eurasian Nuthatch, Speckled Wood-Pigeon...
The 10th, after a morning at the top for a last vain attempt for the Grey-hooded Parrotbill, we went back down to the park entrance and checked in the Hotel Wanzhong, 100RMB (from 438 announced). Best bet of the trip, good room, very nice staff, cheap food. The following day we birded the lower part of the road for 10kms (the guard didn't want to let us go, we had to wait for 2 women, we explained that we were just going to stay on the road for a few km and they accepted without fee, it was 7:40), but we were rather disappointed by the few activity, anyway we saw a few birds; we saw a seicercus sp that we think to be the Omei Shan Warbler, but even with the sound it's not evident.
SECOND VISIT TO WAWUSHAN 3 to 5/06
From Hongya taxi 240RMB until the park gate, we went up with the taxi park to the cable car and went to the hotel of the top (1 Golden Monkey seen during the ascent); they didn't accept bargaining and we paid 68RMB each for 2 beds in a 5 beds' room with electric blankets and shared toilets.
The weather was very different from what it was 1 month ago, very bright and sunny during 2 days; the bamboos on the plateau were partly dry, very few visitors. The Warblers were much more silent, but we heard the Spotted Bush-Warblers. We birded all the afternoon, no Grey-hooded Parrotbill, but we added the Chestnut-crowned Bush-Warbler to our list (on the closed trail). The next morning was spent searching the Parrotbill again, we saw the others very well but not the Grey-hooded. Added Dark-rumped Rosefinch. In the afternoon went down to the hotel at the cable car base, don't ask why, but for the same price than previously (200RMB) we had a room in a cottage with heather and hot shower, much appreciated although the weather was not so cold than in May.
The 4th, took the trail leaving from the hotel stairs, saw very well 2 flocks of Rusty Laughingthrush, Red-winged Laughinthrush, and 2 Wedge-tailed Pigeons, that we missed the first time. Grey-headed Parrotbill, Golden-breasted Fulvetta, Oriental Cuckoo... This overgrown trail is used by locals that we met 2 times, we wonder why they don't clear it, it would be much easier to follow. We stopped at midday as it was hot and very quiet. In the evening eventually 2 Spotted Laughingthrush responded to tape between the bungalow and the car park.
The 5th, still shiny and hot; we left our bags to the office and explained that we were going down on foot and asked them to take our bags down by car. Few activity but nice walk, Rusty-throated Laughingthrush again, and Chinese Babax; we saw the Emei Leaf-Warbler before the bridge (way down) with a roadsign Shenglong falls (9,5km) and another at 8km.
Birds: Chinese Bamboo-Partridge (heard), Temminck’s Tragopan, Lady Amherst’s Pheasant (heard), Grey-capped Pygmy-Woodpecker, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Hogdson’s Treecreeper, Sichuan Treecreeper, Drongo Cuckoo (heard), Lesser Coucal, Large Hawk-Cuckoo (heard), Oriental Cuckoo (rufous morph), Himalayan Swiftlet, White-throated Needletail, Collared Owlet (heard), Speckled Wood-Pigeon, Wedge-tailed Green-Pigeon, Black Baza, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Black-eared Kite, Large-billed Crow, Short-billed Minivet, Ashy Drongo, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Golden Bush-Robin, White-capped+Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Dark-sided Flycatcher, Rufous-gorgeted+Slaty-blue+Verditer Flycatcher, Pale Blue-Flycatcher, Chinese Blue-Flycatcher, Fujian Niltava, Eurasian Nuthatch, Coal+Yellow-bellied+Green-backed Tit, Black Bulbul, Brownish-flanked+Yellowish-bellied+Brown Bush-Warbler, Spotted Bush-warbler (heard), Russet Bush-Warbler (heard), Chestnut-crowned Bush-Warbler, Aberrant Bush-Warbler, Ashy-throated+Buff-barred Warbler, Chinese Leaf-Warbler, Large-billed Leaf-Warbler, Sichuan Leaf-Warbler, Claudia’s Leaf-Warbler, Emei’s Leaf-Warbler, Eastern Crowned Warbler, Bianchi’s Warblerr, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Spotted+Rusty+Elliot’s+Red-winged Laughingthrush, Emei Shan Liocichla, Red-billed Leiothrix, Chinese Babax, Streak-throated Fulvetta, White-collared Yuhina, Great+Three-toed+Brown+Grey-throated+Fulvous Parrotbill, Gould’s Sunbird, Grey Wagtail, Rufous-breasted Accentor, Dark-breasted Rosefinch, Vinaceous Rosefinch, Dark-rumped Rosefinch, Grey-headed Bullfinch, Slaty Bunting.
We don't know wich straight bus J&J had to join Emeishan, but we took a bus supposed to go there just in front of our hotel at 7am (28RMB). To our surprise we drove to Hongya bus station, so there we took a ticket for Emeishan, and very surprised to arrive in a big town 50mn later without mountains! We were in Meishan, on the road to Chengdu! Be careful when you'll asked to go to Emeishan, everybody seems to have understood Meishan, so it would be well advised to show the chinese name on your guidebook! We took a taxi until Baguao (base of Emeishan) for 300RMB, where we eventually arrived at 2pm.
The second surprise of the day, it was the 12th of may, one year after the earthquake, and it was a holiday for commemoration, and the crowd was incredible!
EMEISHAN (12 to 17/05, 42 species)
We took a good room in Baguao at the Teddy Bear Hotel, 200RMB the 1st day because it was holiday, 150RMB the others. There are shops, hotels and restaurants everywhere. The bus station is closed to the hotel so it's convenient. There are buses every half an hour, different prices depending on where you go.
The entry ticket is 150RMB for 2 days, but if you sleep in the mountain several days you won't have to pay more; if you sleep in town you have to pay every 2 days.
Having had enough wet in Wawushan we prefered to stay down, as it was easy to get early in the mountain and that the birds that we were looking for were not specially active at dawn.
To Wannian it is 2ORMB one way, the ticket for the park (to buy before taking the cable car) is 150RMB (available 2 days) and the cable car is 60RM return. Once at the top of the cable station (arrived at 7:3O) we followed Dave Sargeant's report, and easily found the trail with the blue pipeline. We stayed all the day on this trail, had not too many species, but several new for the trip or lifers; Dusky+Grey-cheeked Fulvettas, Hodgson's Hawk-Cuckoo, Black-chinned Yuhina, Eyebrowed Thrush, Ashy-throated Parrotbill, but not one Laughingthrush despite our taping, we just heard the Black-faced but too far; heard 3 Chinese Bamboo-Partridge but didn't came. A pair of Streak-throated Scimitar-Babblers feeding their youngs. Nice lucky view of a Collared Scops-Owl flushed in a bend but that we could observe for a long time; was back to his tree when we returned. We came back to this trail 2 days later, arrived at 7am, but we saw virtually nothing, we tried to see the Bamboo-Partridge and the Laughingthrushes during 4 hours, but were very desappointed. We climbed the stairs up the Wannian Temple for a few hours, less crowded at midday time , and dead concerning the birds; the way back down to Wuxiangang bus station was terrible with hundreds of tourists, shops and restaurants and no birds, altghough it was beautiful.
Another morning we went up to Leidonping, sadly it was raining with a thick fog so we didn't go to the Golden Summit; the crowd was impressive, we went down the stairs towards Elephant Bathing Pool (Xixiang), heard or saw nothing except a few Warblers impossible to identify; rather depressed we went back down at 2pm and had some free time.
Fuhu Temple is situated in a nice forest in the town of Baguao, not far from the hotel at the end of the road. There we saw the Hwamei and the Ashy-throated Parrotbill, even with the crowd. Light-vented Bulbul, Spangled Drongo, Slaty-backed and White-crowned Forktail... The Bamboo-Partridge was calling in the Temple area but desperatly avoided us.
In fact our birding was unsuccessful in Emeishan, the 1st reason probably is our choice to stay down instead of sleeping in the mountain, but most of all, being in a holiday week, we were very depressed to bird in such conditions; the pleasure that we have to bird being more important that the birdlist we chose to give up.
Birds: Chinese Bamboo-Partridge (heard), Crimson-breasted+Grey-headed Woodpecker, Hodgson’s Hawk-Cuckoo, White-throated Needletail, Fork-tailed Swift, Collared Scops-Owl, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike, Ashy Drongo, Spangled Drongo, Blue Whistling–Thrush, Grey-winged+Eurasian Blackbird, Eyebrowed Thrush, Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Slaty-backed+White-crowned Forktail, Yellow-bellied+Great+Green-backed+Black-throated Tit, Light-vented Bulbul, Collared Finchbill, Mountain+Black Bulbul, White-spectacled Warbler, Black-faced Laughingthrush (heard), Hwamei, Black-streaked Scimitar-Babbler, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Rufous-capped Babbler, Red-billed Leiothrix, Green Shrike-Babbler, Dusky Fulvetta, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Striated Yuhina, Black-chinned Yuhina, Ashy-throated Parrotbill, Japanese White-Eye, White-rumped Munia, Eurasian Tree-Sparrow, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker.
Once in Chengdu we heard that the WOLONG road was still not open. So the BALAN SHAN PASS was not reachable by this way.
We decided to join MAERKANG and bird the MENGBI SHAN PASS as the road was open. We took a bus from the northwest station in Chengdu, 162RMB around 6:30am. The road passed by the earthquake zone, and we understood why we couldn't go to Wolong, many landslides had covered most of the road; all was under reconstruction, new road for the first 50km with many tunnels, but the last 300km were a nightmare with so many roadworks and trucks.
About 40km from Maerkang, we were stopped at a police control, they asked us to take our luggage from the bus, and we stayed there 1h30; as they didn't speak english it was difficult to understand what was going on, they were nice with us but we felt a problem; eventually they stopped another bus and explained something to the driver, and once at Maerkang entrance 2 policemen where waiting for us and took us to the Maerkang Hotel (160RMB), they stayed for the check-in, carried our bags until the room and said goodbye. After that, we were happy to have a good diner in a street restaurant and we liked this lively town with a good atmosphere thinking to our future birdwatching, but when we came back to the hotel, a women from the foreign office explained in english that something may happen in the next days in town and that for our security we couldn't stay and return to Chengdu the next morning! She told us to avoid the Aba region, what a disappointment! We had no choice, and the next day did the 11 hours of bus back to Chengdu, leaving behind us the clear and sunny sky of Maerkang.
CHENGDU – DU FU COTTAGE (19/05)
We went there by taxi (all have meters), arrived at 7am, but opens at 6am. No entrance fee; a few new birds were seen for the trip, even lifers, so it was worth it, Spotted Dove, White-throated Laughingthrush, Vinous-throated Parrotbill, Yellow-billed Grosbeak amongst others.
WANGLANG NATURE RESERVE (20 to 24/05 inc, 72sp)
Were at the northern station at 6:20am, but the tickets office wasn't open yet; a man proposed us a car shared with 2 other men, 50RMB per person, for Myangyang, where we arrived at the bus station at 7:45am. Left for Pingwu at 8:45 (42RMB) and arrived only at 2pm due to the numerous stops for roadworks. There we asked to a red minivan driver waiting close to the bus station to take us to Wanglang Nature Reserve, we paid 300RMB for 2h or so of drive.
Arrived at the gate the driver didn't stop so we didn't pay anything and nobody asked for it; after about 8km of gravel road we arrived at the HQ. We were the only tourists; a woman showed us a dark small bedroom with shared bathroom at 200RMB, and a clear nicer room at 400, that we had at 300 (150/pers). But when we paid, the girl who speaks a few english asked 150 for the two of us, we said nothing and paid, thinking that it was enough as they didn't clean the room once during our 5 nights of stay.
Birding: we loved this reserve, easy to bird, nice landscape, very birdy, the first time of our trip that birds where singing everywhere. We only had rain in early morning or late afternoon, and it snowed on the higher mountains one night, giving a superb sight the following day. Map on J&J's report.
Day 1 : walked on the gravel road leaving from the back of HQ, after 3km took the right fork until the boardwalk at the end. Saw 3 pairs of Blood Pheasants at different sites.
Day 2 : began the same road, but took the left fork until the boardwalk at 8km, no time to go further on.
Day 3 : ecotrail in early morning, nothing, then the entrance road for about 5km, 1 pair of Blood Pheasant + 3 Blue-eared Pheasant with at least 8 chicks seen at about 4km at 2pm. Mid-afternoon back to ecotrail, nothing.
Day 4 : left at 4:45am for the same road than day 2 to go at the end, but not very birdy that day, anyway we added 1 Snowy-cheeked Laughingthrush almost 1km before the boardwalk.
Birds: Blood Pheasant, Koklass Pheasant (heard around HQ), Blue-eared Pheasant, Common Pheasant, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Sichuan Treecreeper, Black-capped Kingfisher, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Lesser Cuckoo (heard), Fork-tailed Swift, Spotted Dove, Grey-headed Lapwing, Lammergier, Chinese Sparrowhawk, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Cattle Egret, Chinese Pond-Heron, Grey-backed Shrike, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Large-billed Crow, Long-tailed Minivet, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Chestnut Thrush, White-browed Shortwing, Himalayan Red-flanked Bluetail, Indian Blue Robin, Hodgson’s Redstart, White-throated Redstart, Blue-fronted Redstart, White-capped+Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Ferruginous Flycatcher, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, White-crowned Forktail, White-throated Dipper, Pzrewalski Nuthatch, Yellow-bellied Tit, Grey-crested+Green-backed Tit, Père David’s Tit, Rufous-vented+ Sooty Tit, Asian House Martin, Yellowish-bellied+Spotted Bush-Warbler, Crested Tit-Warbler, Chinese Leaf-Warbler, Buff-barred Warbler, Large-billed Leaf-Warbler, Goldcrest, Bianchi’s Warbler, Claudia’s Warbler, Black-faced Laughingthrush, Elliott’s Laughingthrush, Snowy-cheeked Laughingthrush, Winter Wren, Stripe-throated Yuhina, Great Parrotbill, Oriental Skylark, Russet Sparrow, White Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Rosy Pipit, Maroon-backed Accentor, Vinaceous+Three-banded+White-browed Rosefinch, Grey-headed Bullfinch, White-winged Grosbeak, Crested+Slaty Bunting.
JIUZHAIGOU NATIONAL NATURE RESERVE (26 to 29/05 inc., species)
We said to our taxi driver to take us at Wanglang at 9am but he was there earlier so we left at 8am back to Pingwu to take the bus; arrived at 10:15, we learnt that the bus was at 12:30, in fact, coming from Chengdu it was there at 1pm; it was a long wait, and not at the bus station, the bus stop is along a street and we have been waiting in the noise and the pollution; we paid 55RMB; this road to Jiuzhaigou was a real nightmare with the roadworks, and we arrived in Jiuzhaigou town at 7pm; there a taxi asked 70RMB for the 1/2h drive on a very good road until the park, and we checked in the Hebe Hotel wich is just at the entrance of the park; we bargained for 200RMB, wich is still expensive because we had better for cheaper; anyway it is right at the entrance of the park, wich is much appreciable.
The tickets office opens at 7am, the price is 220RMB for 2 days, plus the bus 90RMB that you have to pay every day. Of course it seems expensive, but the infrastructure and boardwalks in the park are incredible; the scenery is spectacular. Sleeping in the village is still not allowed, and every time that we stopped at the Y junction we have been controlled. Buying a map at the entrance is a good idea.
Day 1: we took a bus straight until Primeval Forest, the end of the right hand fork. The boardwalk is very short and we saw nothing; in fact the trail going in the forest is not behind the toilets, but just on the left behind the pontoon before the toilets stairs. It leads to the telephone antenna that we skirted around on the left, then crosses a stream and go to the forest. At the stony gully we lost it for a while, just go ahead until it reappears on the right side. The forest was quiet, but we saw Sichuan Treecreeper, Lesser Cuckoo (rufous morph); the trail goes up a hill then down to a meadow from where we saw a Sichuan Jay, that's where we stopped. We saw a Hog badger.
Day 2: stopped at the Y junction, a guard asked us where we were going, we said to the village for the photos; we walked along the road for about 4km, saw Upland Buzzard, Chinese Thrush, Buff-throated Warbler. Arrived to a plot « Lower Seasonal Lake » with the entrance of a boardwalk (to be repaired). Follow along the road, just before a right bend there is a hidden small concrete house on the left, just after a small non obvious trail, cross the parapet and follow it, it soon crosses the boardwalk and then is easy to see. We went until the second river, that we didn't cross, we heard or see almost nothing and didn't heard any Rufous-headed Robin.
Day 3: Bus until Pear Waterfalls. Many people generally stop at Miror Lake for the photos, it is the next stop, just ask to the commentator. The boardwalk crosses the falls, then take right down to the toilets. The trail leaves on the left of the men's toilets. If the guard stops you, you can go back to the the upper stairs and take the trail where it is signalled that it's not allowed, they meet further on. Boots needed for river crossings.
Nice forest, passed a first dam, arriving to the second dam we heard 2 men behind us; we stayed hidden until they passed, but we knew that we were loosing our chance of Grouse. Heard a Rufous-headed Robin : well after the 2nd dam (skirted around by the right side), and an iron gate, going up, then arrive to a rather flat and straigh part of the trail (with the river on the left), then there is on the left a very big rock and a big tree with a hole. The bird was singing on the left; we crossed the river and climbed towards the song, on a slope covered with short bamboos, but the Robin was always going further on. After a long search we gave up and took the trail a little bit further, came back to the Robin later, only one of us had a brief view when we put the tape but the bird had already gone above in the bamboos.
Several Père David's and Sooty Tit seen on this trail.
Day 4: Back to the same trail than the previous day at 7:40am; straight to the Robin site where we arrived at 8:45, just before the rock we flushed a pair of Chinese Grouse, the male stayed on a branch for a while and we had a great view (Flushed again on our way back at 2pm). Went to the Robin slope and put the tape, no answer. Back to the trail we walked until a fantastic big alpine meadow, arrived at 10:30, full of migrating Blue-fronted and White-throated Redstarts. We heard a mammal in the mountain, and realised when we visited Bifengxia at the end of the trip that it possibly was a Giant Panda. On the way back, the Robin was singing, stayed 45mn again trying to catch him, always going further up and never showed himself.
Birds: Common Pheasant, Chinese Grouse, Mallard, Three-toed Woodpecker, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Hogdson’s+Sichuan Treecreeper, Black-capped Kingfisher, Lesser Cuckoo, Fork-tailed Swift, Common Buzzard, Upland Buzzard, Little Grebe, Grey-backed Shrike, Eurasian Jay, Sichuan Jay, Spotted Nutcracker, Large-billed Crow, Long-tailed Minivet, Chestnut Thrush, Chinese Thrush, Indian Blue-Robin, Rufous-headed Robin, White-throated Redstart, Blue-fronted Redstart, Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Gree-backed Tit, Père-David’s Tit, Rufous-vented+Sooty Tit, Eurasian Crag-Martin,Spotted Bush-Warbler (heard), Buff-throated Warbler, Chinese Leaf-Warbler, Tickell’s Leaf-Warbler, Buff-barred Warbler, Large-billed Leaf-Warbler, Bianchi’s Warbler, Elliott’s Laughinthrush, White-collared Yuhina, Chestnut-flanked White-Eye, Grey+White Wagtail, Maroon-backed Accentor, Tibetan Siskin, Three-banded Rosefinch, Grey-headed Bullfinch, White-winged Grosbeak,slaty Bunting.
RUO'ERGAÏ (ZOIGÊ)
From our hotel in Jiuzhaigou, taxi 6RMB to the bus station, bus at 7:30am for Songpan, 30RMB, arrived at 10:30, then bus to Ruo’ergaï at 11am, 40RMB, on a very good road climbing until the tibetan plateau then goes straight for kilometers; some birds seen en route, we were very excited. Arrived at 1:30pm, we checked in the empty Ruo'ergaï Dajiudian hotel, hardly bargained 180RMB, but not even an electric blanket, and the place is very cold...!
Went in the street in search of a taxi taking us around town for birdwatching for 2 our 3 hours, and for the full following day; while bargaining a car of policemen stopped, then 2 and 3, they asked us what we wanted, we showed the cranes in the book and said that we wanted to go to the lake the next morning; they understood and were very nice with us, speaking a few words of english, but they took us in their car to meet a charming young girl speaking english, and she told us that we couldn't stay here, not even a night! They took us back to our hotel where we recovered our luggage and our money, and put us in a taxi back to Songpan (300RMB). It is pointless to say that we were completely annihilate!
Birds seen en route: Ruddy Shelduck, Large Hawk-cuckoo (numerous on the electric lines), Whiskered Tern, Black-eared Kite, Himalayan Griffon, Cinereous Vulture, Lammergeier, Upland Buzzard, Black-billed Magpie, Yellow-billed Chough, Daurian Jackdaw, Black Redstart, Common Stonechat, Eurasian Tree-Sparrow.
Back in Songpan, in a big hotel just right of the North Gate, bargained 180RMB for a heated room (Blue Rock-Thrush from the window) where we stayed 2 nights for a day rest, and to take a decision about what to do for our last week in China. Obviously, the place where we missed the biggest number of important birds was Wawushan, so we planned to go back there the next day. We took a bus at 6am (86RMB), the main road through Wengchuan was reopened and we arrived at the northwest bus terminal in Chengdu at 2:30pm. Taxi to the Xinnamen bus station where we missed the bus to Hongya and waited the bus of 4:30pm. Where at Hongya 2 hours later, found a good cheap hotel but wasn't for strangers, we had to check in the big Hongzou Hotel at 170RMB. We booked the taxi for the next morning until Wawushan for 240RMB. See the Wawushan chapter.
BIFENGXIA
From Wawushan bus to Hongya then bus for Ya'an, then took a taxi 40RMB to Bifengxia. This is a Panda research center in a nice forest. At the big car park go to the tickets office to pay the entrance 80RMB shuttle bus included; we followed J&J and went to the Xaoxitian hotel, wich is on the left after the Panda center entrance; just follow the road going on the left, the hotel is set in a courtyard; we paid 80RMB the room with bathroom. We visited the panda center during the afternoon, where there are good trails that people don't seem to use a lot, they are only interested by the pandas. The next morning we took the trail to the gorge wich leaves from the hotel and is well signposted. Very nice walk that we began in early morning, we heard the Moustached Laughingthrush on the other side of the river, but it was dark and we sadly missed it! We added the Spotted Forktail to our list, and other birds seen during our trip; once arrived at the elevator we followed the trail on the left that finishes at the road; there we walked back until the hotel, birding the road should be good in early morning; we heard a Chinese Bamboo-Partridge but too far;
Then it was time to leave the place for Chengdu as our flight was early the next morning, end of the trip.