For our summer holiday this year we decided on Estonia. I had visited Estonia in March 2011 with a friend and was very impressed with the country and was keen to return with Dora. I got information on birding sites from “Finding Birds in Estonia; D.Gosney” and a couple of recent trip reports by Henk van den Brink and Ernesto Occhiato. With trepidation I booked flights with Ryanair from Edinburgh to Tallinn. A month later, my worst fears were realised when I got an e-mail to say the flights had been cancelled but I could re-book “free” from another airport. So at great cost we had to book flights (with Easy jet) from Edinburgh to Luton to get our Ryanair flight to Tallinn. Accommodation was all booked in advance via booking.com. Finally we used Car Trawler to book a car, which we collected at Tallinn Airport.
1st June. We arrived at Tallinn airport to be greeted by strong winds and heavy rain showers. By 1500 hours local time we had collected the car without any hitches and were on our way southeast to Tartu seeing our first birds – Magpies. Our first stop was in Karavere just north of Tartu, by the old collective farm where we found our first House Sparrow, White Wagtail, a singing Lesser Whitethroat, a pair of Fieldfare and Yellow Hammer. We continued on into Tartu and checked into the Carolina Guesthouse on the edge of the town.
It was quite cloudy and overcast, though the wind had dropped a bit so after a nice meal in a town centre pub we decided to head back to Karavere but this time to the meadows just before the bridge crossing. We drove down the track and parked where the track forks. We then scanned the meadows either side of the track. There were lots of Meadow Pipit and Skylark, disturbed at one stage by a hunting Sparrowhawk. We also had a Cuckoo calling and then a Corncrake. A few Common Snipe took off and started drumming. Then on the north side of the track level with where we parked at about 2105hrs we saw some Great Snipe jumping up from an area of long grass. They were quite well down the field. We walked towards them, looking for the marker posts, which we failed to find. We stopped well short of where we had seen the birds jump and waited quietly. Eventually we saw more birds jumping, heard birds calling, saw birds in flight and then eventually got good views of up to three birds on the ground, amongst buttercups and got superb views of them leking. We stayed for about an hour entranced, watching 10+ birds till heavy rain threatened and we retreated back to the car and headed back, elated with this great start to the trip.
2nd June. A pre-breakfast walk round our guesthouse revealed Wood Pigeon, Blackbird, Fieldfare, Great Tit, a pair of Pied Flycatcher, Chaffinch, Greenfinch and Tree Sparrows in the garden. After a substantial breakfast we drove down route 2 to the southern outskirts of Tartu and then followed the signs for Ulenurme, before turning left at the junction signed for Kurapalu. Drove a wee bit along this road then crossed the river and took first right (by the Poldri bus stop) down to a parking spot by a construction yard. This is the northern edge of the Aardla Reserve. There was a nice deciduous wood behind the car park, where we found Pied Flycatcher, Spotted Flycatcher, Blue Tit, Nuthatch, a pair of Redwing, a nice Golden Oriole and had good views of a Thrush Nightingale. We then followed the track south through the flooded marsh, where there were many singing Sedge Warbler and Great Reed Warbler and at least two Bittern booming. Overhead were hordes of Swift, Swallow, House Martin and Sand Martin. We could not get very far along the track as it was flooded, so returned to the car and drove further along the road and took the next track on the right. This took us to the far end of the flooded track and gave a good view of the open water. Highlight here were two pairs of Red-necked Grebes. Walked back scanning the flooded fields finding Northern Wheatear, Whinchat and Reed Bunting, whilst overhead had Common Buzzard and Marsh Harrier. It was a bit cool and cloudy, but at least it was dry.
Returned to the road and continued east till the junction signed Reola. We followed this road south finding a single Bean Goose in a roadside field. Just before the Aardla bus stop we turned right on another track that took us back towards the marshes. Parked just before the watchtower and walked down to it. From here got good views over more open areas of water and marshland. We could see 9+ Common Crane and several Grey Heron. There was a scattering of duck in the shallows mainly Mallard, with a few Gadwall, Shoveler and Garganey. Further out were small numbers of Tufted Duck, Pochard, 20+ Goldeneye and a few Mute Swan. There were good numbers of Black-headed Gulls over the pools with a few Common Gull and at least six Little Gull. There were also many Common Terns and at least four Black Tern.
From the bird tower we continued along the track bordering a deep channel. On one side were lots of willows with Common Rosefinch and Common Whitethroat. On the other side was a flooded field. There were several Yellow Wagtail (both flava and thunbergi) but even better at least 5 male and 2 female Citrine Wagtails. There were also lots of Lapwing and a single and a pair of Marsh Sandpiper. We got excellent views of everything.
Returned to the car and proceeded further south down the road and took the second on the right, which took us to the local dump. There were lots of corvids here including Raven, Hooded Crow, Jackdaw and Rook, along with Herring Gull and Black-headed Gull, but nothing out of the ordinary. Returned back to the road and headed back north taking the first turning on the left before a yellow house. This took us by more flooded meadows where we had good views of a pair of Lesser Spotted Eagles.
We crossed the marshes and arrived back on route 2 and drove back north towards Tartu till we found the sign for Ilmatsalu. Followed the road to the village and drove round the lakeshore to a car park on the north side of the village. We then followed a track past some sewage pools towards a large lake. Lots of singing Reed Bunting, Sedge Warbler and a few Great Reed Warbler in the reeds plus Garden Warbler, Thrush Nightingale and Common Rosefinch in the bushes. The lake and pools did not hold very much bar a pair of Tufted Duck, three Goldeneye and a Shoveler. However at the corner of the big lake we had good views of a pair of Penduline Tit. Continued on past the bird tower along by some riverine woodland. This held lots of birds including a Great Spotted Woodpecker, a pair of nesting White-backed Woodpecker, at least two Icterine Warbler, Chiffchaff, a pair of Willow Tit and several Pied and Spotted Flycatcher. As we left three Great White Egret flew over, well north of their normal range. A very heavy shower of rain caused us to retreat back to the car after a great day at two excellent birding sites.
3rd June. After breakfast drove southeast from Tartu down the 2, then 61 towards Polva. Just north of Polva we turned left for Taevaskoja. Drove through the village and then at the start of the next village, Saesaare turned right down to the car park. We followed the track down through the woods towards the river. The woods resounded with bird song and we located our first Willow Warbler, Wood Warbler and Mistle Thrush. We crossed over the river and then went up the steps on the far side to the top of the ridge. We then made a slight mistake by turning left and walking through the conifer wood above the lake. Here were lots of Wood Warbler, a few Tree Pipit and a Common Redstart, but little else. Returned to the top of the steps and then followed the track going down by the river. This was much better habitat with a greater variety of woodland birds including Song Thrush, Robin, Wren, Goldcrest, Crested Tit, Blackcap, Garden Warbler, Chiffchaff, Siskin and best of all a fine male Red-breasted Flycatcher. Unfortunately no sign or sound of Greenish Warbler. Along the river were a pair of Common Sandpiper, two female Goosander and a small colony of Sand Martin. Dora also managed to find a Red Squirrel. By midday it was getting very busy with crowds of locals arriving for a Sunday stroll so we decided to move on.
We continued southeast to Rapina. Our intention was to follow Gosney’s instructions and visit the Rapina polder. Unfortunately we did not realise there were two roads heading north from Rapina to Linte and both had bus stops for Tooste on them! We initially followed the wrong road (the first signed on the left as you enter Rapina). We searched for access tracks around the Tooste bus stop with no success. We did however get good views of a singing Blyth’s Reed Warbler and found a Wryneck feeding on the road verge. We abandoned our search for the polders and drove back south through Rapina towards Varska, and then followed route 63 towards the Russian border. Had various stops enroute at nice bits of open habitat and found a Stock Dove, several Red-backed Shrike, lots of Whinchat, and finally a Corncrake, which gave brief views.
Returned north and where the road crosses the river at Voopso had a group of nine Little Gulls feeding on the river. As we went through Rapina we found the second road to Linte, just before the lake. We followed this north and then found the correct Toostie bus stop and the proper tracks to the polders. We proceeded down them, but due to all the recent rain they were very muddy and we decided not to risk going all the way down. Scanned the adjacent fields one of which held lots of Lapwing, 13 Golden Plover, 15+ Curlew and two Common Crane. After deciding it was a bit too late to walk to the polders we returned to Rapina and took the 45 back to Tartu.
4th June. I had discovered that just behind the Guesthouse there was a large area of open recreational land so before we departed from Tartu we decided to spend an hour or so wandering around it. We found two pairs of Blyth’s Reed Warblers in the bushes, along with several Thrush Nightingales, one of which gave us very good views, plus Icterine Warblers and a Willow Tit. In more overgrown bits were Marsh Warblers. We walked down a line of mature trees with lots of Tree Sparrows and nesting Starlings to a lake where there was a large Black-headed Gull colony and lots of feeding Sand Martins.
It was then time to leave Tartu. We took the 92 west from Tartu to Viljandi. First stop was where the road crosses the Elva Joge, a wide river bordered by reeds and scrub. A Eurasian Reed Warbler was singing from the reeds close to the road, whilst a more distant Bittern boomed. Overhead a Marsh Harrier hunted the reeds and a Hobby chased and ate dragonflies on the wing. Continued on west till the sign for Sanga. We followed Gosney’s instructions to the pools, but the fields were completely dry. Continued along the track and just before it rejoined the road there was a small reservoir and beyond it a reedy river channel. As we stopped I heard a Spotted Crake calling on the opposite side of the river and eventually we got good brief views of it as it walked across a narrow open area in the reeds. In the bushes around the river and reservoir we had Sedge Warbler, Marsh Warbler and another Blyth’s Reed Warbler and at the edge of the fields along the tree line a Turtle Dove, Linnet and Yellow Hammer. A nice wee spot and it was now a bit warmer and sunnier and the wind had dropped.
From Viljandi we continued towards Kilingi-Nomme. A lunchtime stop at the Raudna Lake Nature Reserve, by the main road, was rewarded with several singing Marsh Warbler and overhead an adult Lesser Spotted Eagle. West of Kilingi-Nomme took the road to Haademeeste and then drove up the 4 till just before the sign for Voiste turned left for Pikla Pools. A flooded field next to the track held 20+ Shoveler, with a few Gadwall, Teal and Garganey. There were lots of waders, mainly Lapwing and Redshank, but also a pair of Oystercatcher and a nice male Citrine Wagtail. Walked down to the bird tower, hearing masses of singing Great Reed Warblers, a few Eurasian Reed Warbler, lots of Reed Bunting and a booming Bittern. Followed the track out towards the shore disturbing a pair of Grey Partridge and seeing a few Northern Wheatear. A scan from the bird tower on the shore revealed 400+ Goldeneye offshore, lots of Cormorants, a few Shelduck, our first Greylag Geese and a pair of Ringed Plover. This is yet another bird rich site. We continued north to Parnu and checked into our very nice accommodation BB Tulbi.
5th June. Our aim today was to visit the Soomaa National Park east of Parnu. We took the 59 up to Tori and then turned off to Joesuu. Just before entering Joesuu we turned right, signed Soomaa NP. We followed this road to Toramaa and then turned left along the Kildu road. After c5km we crossed a bridge and saw a small car park opposite Kuusekaarn Farm. This was the start of the Lemmjogi Forest Spit trail. To begin with the trail follows the Raudna River along flower rich meadows. Here we had Sedge and Marsh Warbler, Common Whitethroat, Whinchat , Common Rosefinch and a calling Corncrake. The trail then cuts into the superb riverine forest as it heads over towards the Lemmjogi. As we started on this section we flushed a Hazel Hen from the side of the track. It must have had young as it did a distraction display. A while later we flushed a second bird. The forest had all the usual woodland species, but in addition we had our first Tree Creeper, Jay and a pair of Lesser-Spotted Woodpecker. The trail then follows the Lemmjogi with the river on one side and the forest on the other till it reaches the confluence with the Raudna. It then returns back up the Raudna, where in the first section there were a lot of signs of beaver activity, but unfortunately no signs of the animals themselves. We followed the trail back to the car park.
Continued south along the Kildu road a short distance till we came to an area with a lot of dead trees. It looked good for woodpeckers and so it proved to be. We had a White-backed Woodpecker, then a Three-toed Woodpecker and then a Pine Marten, which ran down the road in front of us. We continued on our way till at Arma just on the edge of the park, we came to a new bridge and just before it turned left signed Hupasaare. This track passed through conifers with singing Wood Warblers and our first Coal Tits. At Kibaru took the left track and I immediately heard a River Warbler singing. I managed to track it down in some willows and got good views of it in full song.
Eventually we turned left off the track down to Hupassare. This is another trail that goes through the forest and then out on a brand new boardwalk into the bog. Here we had close views of two Wood Sandpipers, one very agitated. as well as a few Tree Pipit, Whinchat and a pair of Teal. The walk took about an hour. We continued north and in a damp forest clearing at Vaigula had an agitated Green Sandpiper perched on a tree stump, whilst a bit further up the road we had a second, as well as a Common Snipe, which was perched on the top of a telegraph pole. We hit the main road and started west, till we turned left following the track signed Tori. Just beyond the turn off we had yet another Lesser Spotted Eagle and a bit further down the road a pair of Hawfinch. Eventually made our way back to Parnu after another splendid day.
6th June. Decided to head south to visit Gosney’s “magic corner”. Took the 4 down to Haadameeste and then turned left at the filling station. After c12km we took the track signed Massiaru, then after Sooba took the first left and drove to the reserve boundary where we parked. We then walked east along the forest track. First good bird was a male Black Woodpecker, immediately followed by a soaring Honey Buzzard. Turned down the first track on the right and walked down to the “corner”. Usual forest birds seen including a Great Spotted Woodpecker, Goldcrest, lots of Wood Warbler, Garden Warbler, Chiffchaff and Tree Pipit. Best birds were two singing River Warblers, got brief views of one of them. As we headed back to the car we had a Golden Eagle soaring high over the forest. We met another couple of birders who had heard a Greenish Warbler, which we unfortunately missed.
Headed back north and had a brief lunch stop at Pikla Pools. Best bird was a Hobby hunting dragonflies over the flooded field. From Parnu we took the 60 north to Lihula, then the 31 towards Haapsalu. Just after Ridala turned right at the sign for Taebia, then at the first junction went left, which took us up to Vonnu. Parked near the roadside lake, which held a pair of Garganey and a Moorhen family. In the surrounding woodland found a male Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Pied and Spotted Flycatcher and a Tawny Owl. Feeding in the surrounding fields were Linnets, Greenfinch and Yellow Hammers. Continued on to Haapsalu and checked into our hotel. The lake outside held Great-crested Grebe, Pochard, Tufted Duck., whilst he islands supported a noisy colony of Black-headed Gulls and Common Terns. Best bird was a White-tailed Eagle.
7th June. A pre-breakfast check of the lake revealed a pair of Slavonian Grebes. After breakfast headed down route 31 towards Matsalu NP and turned right for Puise. Once we reached the coast started checking the small bays that could be seen from the road. In the shallows were lots of Wigeon, with a few Shoveler and Gadwall as well as some Oystercatcher and at least four Avocet. Offshore were large groups of Goldeneye. There were flocks of Greylag Geese on the coastal meadows along with breeding Curlew, Redshank and Lapwing. Two White-tailed Eagles appeared and spooked everything, including four summer plumage Spotted Redshank and a Black-tailed Godwit.
Continued down to the car park at Puise and then walked out on the small track that goes through the bushes down towards the point, having first negotiated the electrified gate. In the bushes good views of two song flighting Barred Warblers. There were also several Red-backed Shrike as well as Common Rosefinch, Linnet and Greenfinch. As we headed out across the coastal meadow we had both flava and thunbergi Yellow Wagtails. In the shallows were three Dark-bellied Brent Geese, 15 Barnacle Geese, a few Red-breasted Merganser plus lots of Mute Swans. Offshore on some islets were colonies of Common and Black-headed Gulls, with Common Terns, a few Arctic Terns and a Great Black-backed Gull. Overhead lots of Common Swift, Swallow and House Martin were on the move.
Returned to the main road and continued east till the sign for Haeska. This took us down to a car park where we walked out to the bird tower in the wood, beyond the farmhouse. This overlooked the bay and adjacent expansive coastal meadows. There were lots of duck, mainly Mallard with Wigeon, Shoveler, Gadwall and Teal. On the pasture found two Whooper Swans. We also had another three White-tailed Eagles. As we were leaving we noticed a group of 50+ Common Crane and then found another 13 on adjacent farmland. Our final stop was at the tower at Rannajore. Not much here bar lots of Skylarks and a Red Fox.
Continued down the 31 till we hit the main road for Rista. At Kullamaa had another five Whooper Swans in a field and a hunting male Hen Harrier. Stopped for lunch by a nice bit of woodland beside the Koluvere bus stop. Got good views of Icterine Warblers, plus breeding Redwing, Fieldfare, Spotted Flycatcher, Goldfinch and Siskin. We then drove on to Tallinn and checked into Hotel Susi, just beyond the airport. In late afternoon we took the tram into Tallinn and had a nice walk round the old town.
8th June. Our final day. We had a bit of time before our afternoon flight so decided to head east from Tallinn along the 1, then cut of down the 13 towards Aegvildu. Just before the town we stopped at the sign for the Pohja Korvemaa Nature Reserve. We walked down a forest track but apart from the usual common woodland birds and a Cuckoo, didn’t see that much. I think we should have driven a bit further down the road and we’d have found some forest trails that probably went through better habitat.
Returned north and just after crossing the River Jagala parked at the roadside and I walked out along a track on the north side of the river. Good variety of birds here including a Wryneck, yet another pair of Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Marsh Warbler, Red-backed Shrike, Pied Flycatcher, Common Rosefinch, Jay and a pair of Common Sandpiper.
Drove back to Tallinn, returned the car having done about 1500km and checked in for our flight back to Luton. In all we saw 145 different species and I had one lifer – Great Snipe. The undoubted highlight of the trip for me was the Great Snipe lek. The general high density of bird life at virtually all the sites we visited was a close second. We were also very impressed by the lush countryside we passed through, particularly all the wild flowers. We found the Estonians very friendly and many spoke English. All places were well signed, even in the remoter off road forest areas. The accommodation was good, the food excellent and we enjoyed visiting the old parts of the towns we stayed in, particularly the old city of Tallinn. Although it was a bit cloudy, cool and windy for the first couple of days, the weather improved and was quite pleasant for the remainder of our visit. All in all it was a very successful trip.
robert.swann@homecall.co.uk