Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
 Pygmy Cormorant |
 Montagu's Harrier |
 Sunset |
|
Introduction
The aim of this solo three day trip (28/04 - 01/05/12 ) was to try and see Rock Partridge and some Eastern Mediterranean species that I had not seen since spring trips to Turkey and Israel in the mid-eighties. The timing and length of the trip were dictated by work and family commitments and going a couple of weeks later might have increased the number of summer visitors. Originally I hoped to see Rock Partridge at a well known site just outside the Paklenica National Park. Unsuccessful I followed the advice given to me by a local bird guiding agency Val Tours and found that this species is easier to see on the nearby island of Pag. Including Rock Partridge the trip list was 83 species with other highlights including Pygmy Cormorant, Gull-billed Tern, Eastern Orphean Warbler and evidence of a decent wader passage.
Logistics
Return flights from London Stansted to Split and a hire car (4D Opel Corsa with a/c) were booked with easyJet for £196. The outbound flight on 28/4 was the first of the season and was only about half full - the return flight only had about 60 passengers! My base for the first two nights was Starigrad-Paklenica a coastal village on the edge of the Paklenica NP is ca 160 km of Split Airport (which is actually closer to Trogir) and easily reached by the coastal highway route 8 or the toll motorway A1 (E71). Accommodation in Starigrad-Paklenica, was booked by email for the 2* Hotel Rajna at a cost of HRK227/night B&B (~GBP30). The owners have accommodated parties of birders before are used to climbers and as a consequence are incredibly relaxed about mealtimes and early morning starts. The last night I stayed at the very comfortable 4* Hotel Rotondo in the village of Seget Donji which is 6km from the airport (HRK 590/night B&B (~£63).
The region is very compact and has an excellent tourist infrastructure with ATMs, petrol stations, supermarkets, convenience stores and accommodation to suit all budgets. Starigrad-Paklenica is a good base for the nearby Paklenica NP and is in easy reach of Lake Vrana and Pag Island, but the Velebit NP (WB Woodpecker, Ural and Tengmalm’s Owls) is only ca 80km to the North. In addition to the easyJet flights to Split, Ryanair fly into Zadar and for those seeking guiding Val Tours are based in Biograd na Moru (just North of Lake Vrana). The following two reports of trips taken at a similar time give some context to my observations
Smallwood J. Report of an EcoTours Birding Trip to Croatia (26/4/2008 – 3/5/2008)
Wheeler J. Croatia Trip Report (1/5/2011-4/5/2011)
Diary
Saturday 28th April: The flight arrived on time. Immigration and hire car collection was routine and by 10.30hrs I was heading North towards Lake Vrana on route 8 stopping briefly at a supermarket to pick up some water. The track down to the bird observation tower on the NW shore follows an inlet canal that is popular with fishermen and was full of singing Great Reed Warblers whilst the only Purple Heron of the trip flew over. Pygmy Cormorants were easy to see. Distant waders included Lapwing, Ruff and Wood Sandpipers, whilst duck were represented by Garganey, Shoveler and Mallard. After re-parking the car I walked down to the ringing station (which also has an observation tower) and along the first part of the boardwalk that has been built along the NW shore. This yielded better views of Pygmy Cormorant and Wood Sandpiper plus an unexpected Gull-billed Tern. I then unsuccessfully tried to find a second observation tower on the NE shore, but instead ended up looking around the village of Vrana and its castle where I found Blue Rock Thrush, Bee-eaters and an enormous colony of Spanish Sparrows. Leaving town I picked up a roadside Wryneck before heading back to Pakoštane and the E8.
I arrived in Starigrad-Paklenica late afternoon and found the turning for Veliko Runjo and headed up to the Rock Partridge site at Ercezi Kojin Dolac. No partridges but Nightingale, Subalpine Warbler Chiffchaff and Long-tailed Tit were all I had to show for a long hot afternoon before I threw in the towel around 7pm and headed for the Hotel Rajna.
Sunday 29th April: Two House Sparrows in the hotel grounds were the only ones I recorded. A pre-breakfast drive up the Veliko Runjo road again failed to yield any Partridges, but in addition to last night’s birds were Blue Rock Thrush, Black-eared Wheatear, Sparrowhawk Greenfinch and White Wagtail. Returned to the hotel for breakfast and to contemplate plan B - a trip to Pag Island.
The journey to Pag Island was straightforward with a flyover Hoopoe and male Golden Oriole illuminating the journey. My first stop was Mala Blato where I enjoyed 4 pairs of displaying Montagu’s Harrier and Corn Bunting.Veliko Blato yielded Marsh Harrier, Spotted Redshank and Pygmy Cormorant along with a flock of flava wagtails amongst the sheep flock; to my eyes mainly “dombrowski” types with a couple of Grey-headed. The only Black-headed Wagtail noted here was not with the flock but in the reed bed. After a trip to the town of Pag to buy water (the temperature was by now an unseasonal 27°C) I retraced my route, but still failed to see any partridges. To address this I explored the dry boulder strewn area between Mala Blato and Veilko Blato on foot – looking carefully in the many sheep fields that are bounded by dry-stone walls. This habitat yielded Crested Larks, Tawny Pipits and Stone Curlew with a Short-toed Eagle overhead. Eventually from the base of a dry stone wall I flushed a pair of Rock Partridge one of which flew on to the top of a wall and gave good views. After a further look at the West end of Veliko Blato which produced Stone Curlew and Wood Sandpiper I stopped to photographs some “typical” Rock Partridge habitat when another bird flew over a wall and landed in the adjacent field allowing me to get even better views before it flushed and landed on top of a distant wall.Content I drove the short distance to the small marsh at the head of the Dinjiška salt pans where I found small flocks of Curlew Sandpiper, Little Stint and Wood Sandpiper along with a pair of Kentish Plover and Greenshank. At the edge of the salt pans was an unexpected Common Crane and a Great White Egret. The surrounding fields held Bee-eaters and flava wagtails including one Black-headed and another Montagu’s Harrier drifted over. The drive back to the hotel I was able to stop and enjoy a flock of five Black-necked Grebes in a small bay near Modric.
Monday 30th April: After breakfast I explored the area of scrub and allotments opposite the hotel; Cirl Bunting, Blackcap, flava wagtails, Turtle Dove, Rock Dove, Greenfinch before heading to Mala Paklenica – going to the smaller gorge was the default choice as I was advised by the hotel owner that an international climbing festival was being held in Veliko Paklenica. After parking at the visitor’s centre and paying the entrance fee I walked up gorge as far as the third dam. The commonest species was Subalpine Warbler and notable sightings included Eastern Orphean Warbler, Wood Warbler, Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin and Alpine Swift. After lunch in Starigrad I drove South to Lake Vrana and this time parked at the Western end of the boardwalk and walked back towards the ringing hut. First up was a flock of 8 Glossy Ibis. After a couple of hundred metres the boardwalk crosses a muddy bay that was full of waders including good numbers of Wood Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint along with 4 Temminck’s Stints and one each of Ringed Plover and Little Ringed Plover. A little closer to the ringing hut were three Grey Plover on a sand bar along with the expected Pygmy Cormorants. The reed beds and surrounding scrub held Nightingale, Turtle Dove, Cuckoo, Great Reed Warbler and Cetti’s Warbler and amongst the hundreds of Swallows were a couple of Sand Martins. I headed south towards the airport and spent the night in Seget Donji.
Tuesday 1st May: After breakfast I spent about 40 mins on the dry slopes just north of Seget Donji where apart from the expected Subalpine Warblers and Blackbirds I added Sardinian Warbler to the trip list before heading to the airport.
For further information or to obtain a pdf of his report containing additional maps and site details please contact nick.watmough_at_gmail.com
1. Black-necked Grebe. 5 in the bay at Modric on the evening of 29/4
2. Great Crested Grebe Noted at both Lake Vrana (28/4 & 30/4) and at Veliko Blato (29/4)
3. Pygmy Cormorant Plentiful at the NW end of Lake Vrana on both visits. One or two at Veliko Blato on 29/9
4. Little Egret ca10 Lake Vrana (28/4), 1 Veliko Blato (29/4), 2 Dinjiška salt pans (29/4)
5. Great White Egret 1 Dinjiška salt pans (29/9)
6. Grey Heron noted in all wetland areas with a max of 16 at Lake Vrana (28/4)
7. Purple Heron 1 Lake Vrana on the afternoon of 28/4
8. Glossy Ibis 8 Lake Vrana (30/4)
9. Spoonbill 2 Lake Vrana (28/4 & 30/4)
10. Mute Swan 3 Lake Vrana (28/4 & 30/4)
11. Shelduck 1 Lake Vrana (28/4)
12. Mallard 2 Lake Vrana (28/4)
13. Shoveller Noted at Lake Vrana (28/4 & 30/4)
14. Garganey 3♂ & 1♀ Lake Vrana (28/4)
15. Red-crested Pochard A pair at the NW end of Veliko Blato (29/4)
16. Short-toed Eagle 1 between Veliko Blato and Mala Blato (29/4)
17. Marsh Harrier 1♀ Veliko Blato (29/4)
18. Montagu's Harrier 4 pairs displaying over Mala Blato (29/4)
19. Sparrowhawk 1 on the Veliko Runjo road (29/4)
20. Kestrel noted in all habitats throughout the trip
21. Rock Partridge Two in the sheep fields between Veliko Blato and Mala Blato (29/4) and a further bird between Veliko Blato and Dinjiška salt pans (29/4)
22. Pheasant One calling from the scrub opposite the hotel in Starigrad-Paklenica (29-30/4)
23. Coot Common at Lake Vrana and noted at Veliko Blato (29/4)
24. Common Crane 1 Dinjiška salt pans (29/9)
25. Black-winged Stilt ca20 Lake Vrana (28/4 & 30/4)
26. Stone Curlew 1 flushed from the sheep fields between Veliko Blato and Mala Blato (29/4) with a further 4 at the North end of Veliko Blato (29/4)
27. Little-ringed Plover 1 Lake Vrana (30/4)
28. Ringed Plover 1 Lake Vrana (30/4)
29. Kentish Plover 2 Dinjiška salt pans (29/9)
30. Grey Plover 3 Lake Vrana (30/4)
31. Lapwing 1 Lake Vrana (28/4)
32. Curlew Sandpiper 6 Dinjiška salt pans (29/4) and 15 Lake Vrana (30/4).
33. Temminck's Stint 4 Lake Vrana (30/4)
34. Little Stint 15 Dinjiška salt pans (29/4) and 45 Lake Vrana (30/4)
35. Ruff Up to 10 noted at Lake Vrana on both visits
36. Wood Sandpiper. 6 Lake Vrana (28/4), 5 at the North end of Veliko Blato (29/4) and10+ Lake Vrana (30/4)
37. Spotted Redshank 1 Veliko Blato (29/4) and 1 Lake Vrana (30/4)
38. Greenshank 1 Veliko Blato (29/4), 1 Dinjiška salt pans (29/4)
39. Black-headed Gull 1 Starigrad-Paklenica (30/4).
40. Yellow-legged Gull Common throughout.
41. Gull-billed Tern 1 Lake Vrana (28/4)
42. Rock Dove Common throughout.
43. Collared Dove Noted in most human settlements.
44. Turtle Dove 1 Starigrad-Paklenica (29-30/4)
45. Cuckoo 1 Lake Vrana (28/4 and 30/4)
46. Scop's Owl 1 heard calling in the distance at Starigrad-Paklenica in the very early hours of 30/4
47. Swift First noted at Lake Vrana (30/4) and then over most towns on the drive back to Split
48. Alpine Swift Noted in Mala Paklenica (30/4)
49. Hoopoe 2 en route to Pag Island (29/4)
50. Bee-eater Noted throughout with a maximum of 10+ Vrana village (28/4)
51. Wryneck 1 by the roadside near Vrana village (28/4)
52. Crested Lark Noted in suitable habitat on Pag Island (29/4)
53. Sand Martin 2 amongst the mass of Swallows Lake Vrana (30/4).
54. Crag Martin A few noted in Mala Paklenica (30/4)
55. Swallow Common throughout
56. House Martin Common throughout
57. Tawny Pipit Noted in the sheep fields between Veliko Blato and Mala Blato (29/4)
58. White Wagtail 1 on the descent from Ercezi Kojin Dolac (29/4)and noted in Pag town (29/4).
59. "flava" Wagtail ca20 in with the sheep plus 1 ssp feldegg in the reed bed Veliko Blato (29/4) another 10 including 1 ssp feldegg Dinjiška salt pans (29/4) and 2 Starigrad-Paklenica (30/4)
60. Nightingale Common in all suitable habitat.
61. Black-eared Wheatear 1♂ melanloleuca in the hills above Ercezi Kojin Dolac (29/4)
62. Whinchat 2 between Veliko Blato and Mala Blato (29/4).
63. Blue Rock Thrush Singles noted at Vrana village (28/4), Ercezi Kojin Dolac (29/4) and Mala Paklenica (30/4)
64. Blackbird Common throughout
65. Garden Warbler 1 above Ercezi Kojin Dolac (28/4)
66. Blackcap 1 Starigrad-Paklenica (30/4)
67. Eastern Orphean Warbler 1 Mala Paklenica (30/4)
68. Sardinian Warbler 1 near Trogir (1/5)
69. Subalpine Warbler Common in all suitable habitat
70. Cetti's Warbler 1 Lake Vrana (30/4)
71. Great Reed Warbler Noted as common in the reed beds of Lake Vrana (28/4 and 30/4)
72. Wood Warbler 1 Mala Paklenica (30/4)
73. Chiffchaff 2 around Ercezi Kojin Dolac (28/4)
74. Great Tit 1 Ercezi Kojin Dolac (28-29/4)
75. Long-tailed Tit 2 Ercezi Kojin Dolac (28-29/4)
76. Hooded Crow Common throughout
77. Starling Noted in all urban areas visited
78. Golden Oriole 1 en route to Pag Island (29/4)
79. House Sparrow 2 in the garden of the Hotel Rajna (29/4)
80. Spanish Sparrow Noted throughout with a particularly impressive tree nesting colony in Vrana village (28/4)
81. Goldfinch Noted around Starigrad-Paklenica
82. Greenfinch 1-2 noted around Starigrad-Paklenica
83. Serin Common in all suitable habitat
84. Cirl Bunting 1 Starigrad-Paklenica (30/4)
85. Corn Bunting Singles at Mala Blato, Pag saltpans and Dinjiška salt pans (29/4)