Notes On A Scandal
Using Airasia.com, I flew into Saigon in the south, went through the Dalat Plateau (Tuyen Lake, Mount Lang Bian, Ta Nung Valley), then north to Bach Ma, Nihn Bin, Tam Dao and flew out of Hanoi in the North.
This is a condensed trip report of my 20-day trip to Vietnam. There is not a bird list attached at the end, but I do make daily notes of noteworthy birds, giving the reader a better idea of exactly where to look. Many species splits are happening in Vietnam, especially the Dalat Plateau, so it is worth keeping track of every sighting.
The weather went from great to poor and the local population more “scooter-horn” frenzied as I travelled northwards, and I eventually departed a week earlier than planned. Violent arguments and the occasional fist fight were normal at most local bus stations; a great source of entertainment whilst waiting for one’s bus to fill with passengers. I enjoyed the time birding around Dalat, Bach Ma and Tam Dao.
I utilized local transport and a “Lonely Planet” guide book to keep daily costs to about US$17.50 (meals, hotels, transport and earplugs). No local birding guides were used, but I read trip reports from Vietnambirding.com and Worldtwitch.com (Frank Rheidt), and brought along Craig Robson’s bird bible.
With a better budget, one would do well to join a tour with Vietnambirding.com, or Sunbird Tours with Susan Myers, or Birdquest with Janos Olah. James Eaton from Birdtourasia.com is highly recommended; he’s usually found to be in Indonesia discovering new species of Parrotfinch however.
Daily Journal
20 Dec – Fly into SIAGON
21 Dec – Comfortable 300 km Bus journey to DALAT, observing very little forest
22 Dec – Rented bicycle south to TUYEN LAKE, and rode along the left-hand side of the lake. Stopping often and walking through the mostly pine forest towards a large mix-forested hill in the distance. There was a small trail up the hill and one of the first birds I recorded was Vietnamese Cutia. This whole area was being turned into a golf course and resort, so it may look slightly different today.
Notable Birds Today: Cutia, Eurasian Jay, Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, White Cheeked Laughingthrush, Greenbacked Tit, Hoopoe, Long-tailed Minivet, Bluewinged Minla, Gray crowned Tit, Maroon Oriole, Grey-bellied Tesia, Large Niltava, Mountian Fulvetta. 50 species today
23 Dec – Rented bicycle north to LANGBIAN MOUNTAIN. At the ticket gate, walk up the main road through pine forest about 3km and veer onto a dirt track toward the right broadleaved forest summit. I hiked the steep trial to the summit, this track is usually crowded with screaming school kids, but the birds are still here. Two Green Cochoa were heard calling to eachother, but with some frustration I left without sighting them.
Notable Birds Today: Green Cochoa (heard), Vinous-breasted Starling, Vietnamese Greenfinch, Eurasian Jay, White-throated Rock Thrush, Large Cuckooshrike, Mugimaki Flycatcher, Grey Belly Tesia, Black crowed Fulvetta, Rufous-capped Babbler, Chestnut-fronted Shrike Babbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Black Eagle, Yellow-billed Nuthatch, Pygmy Cupwing, Blue-winged Minla, Ashy-throated Warbler, Rufous-throated Partridge, Burmese Shrike. 60 species today
24 Dec – Public bus to same location as yesterday, LANGBIAN MOUNTAIN. Today I hiked the same route along the summit trail, but veered left before the steep climb to the summit. It was flatter hiking here, and I came across Collared Laughingthrush twice.
Notable Birds Today: Collared Laughingthrush, Bay Woodpecker (heard), Moustached Barbet, Golden-throated Barbet, Lesser Shortwing, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Ashy Bulbul, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Brown-throated Treecreeper, Large Niltava, Grey belly Tesia, Grey-throated Babbler, Vietnamese Greenfinch. Not seen Cutia.45-50 species today
25 Dec – Rented bicycle southwest to TANUNG VALLEY. I spent about 4-5 hours in this valley but did not see the Crocias, I think he was away for Christmas holiday. I did see some good birds still, including Orange-breasted Laughingthrush.
Notable Birds Today: Orange-breasted Laughingthrush, Yellow-eyed Babbler, Gray-crowned Tit, Blue-winged Minla, Vietnamese Greenfinch (hydro wires along main road), White-cheeked Laughingthrush and White-browed Scimitar Babbler (mixed species flock), Red Vented Barbet (Group of 8), Black Eagle, Mugimaki Flycatcher, Siberian Blue Robin, White-tailed Robin, Dark throated Sunbird (to be split?), Grey Bellied Tesia, Long-tailed Minivet, Blackheaded Sibia, Rufous-backed Sibia, Black-browed (split /Annam?)Barbet, Red-headed Trogon, Spot-throated Babbler, Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird. 65 species for Christmas count.
26 Dec – A “new” road from DALAT to NHA TRANG cuts through some impressive forest, and would be worthwhile hiring a private vehicle and making a number of stops. Time spent on the beach.
27 - 28 Dec – Laundry in NHA TRANG, then overnight bus north to HOI AN and onto BACH MA NATIONAL PARK. The 16km road that leads to the summit of the mountain here was closed for repairs, so I had the entire National Park to myself. The visitor center at the base of the mountain was open, as were a guesthouse and restaurant, and so I would spend 3 nights here. Much of the lower slopes of the mountain are still in recovery of what appears to be a defoliant used by American planes during the Vietnam War.
29 Dec – BACH MA PARK. Awakened by loudspeakers at 4:30 am blaring out the news of the day, so I decided to walk the road to the summit and back in a day; 32KM return. I get tired just writing this, but I recall great weather and outstanding views from the temple on the summit. Sultan Tit with black crest (new species?) was seen 3 times; one bird @ KM14, 3 birds @KM16 and 2 birds @ KM17.
Notable Birds Today: Sultan Tit, Mountain Scops Owl (heard), Annam Partridge (heard), Black-browed Fulvetta, Striated Yuhina, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Blue-winged Leafbird, Spot-necked Babbler, Orange-flanked Bush Robin (split?), White-bellied Yuhina, Fujian Niltava (KM 15, KM19) Siberian Thrush, White-winged Magpie, Silver-eared Mesia, Red-headed Trogon, Blue-rock Thrush, Ratchet-tailed Treepie. 45 species today
30 Dec – BACH MA PARK. In the morning I hiked the Pheasant Trail at KM 8 for great views of Bar-bellied Pitta plus one heard, and views of Bar-backed Partridge. In the afternoon I hiked south along the flat road at the base of the mountain.
Notable Birds Today: Red Junglefowl, Tickells Blue Flycatcher, Masked Laughingthrush, Racket-tailed (yesterday Ratchet-tailed)Treepie, Green Sandpiper, Red-breasted Parakeet, Asian Barred Owlet (heard), Large-tailed Nightjar. 47 species today
31 Dec – The public bus drivers tend to charge foreigners 5 times the normal fare, and today I tried unsuccessfully to offer only 3 times the normal fare. After being refused by 2 buses, and then kicked off a third, I finally relented and paid the full 5 times fare to HUE. Overnight bus north to NIHN BIN on a “Open-ticket” bus for normal fare.
1 Jan – I don’t recall seeing the sun for the remaining 8 days of my trip. Instead my time was spent in a smoggy, wet haze which likely rolled in from China. Noodles, haircut.
2 Jan – Rented a bicycle around NIHN BIN.
Notable Birds Today: Limestone Wren Babbler, Plain Prinia, Light-vented Bulbul, White-browed Crake, Blue Whistling Thrush (black bill) Blue Rock Thrush(philippensis). 25 species today
3 Jan – I should have gone to CUC PHOUNG, but the weather was poor and the people who drive the public buses wanted to make me even poorer. I changed my flight date and decided to spend the remainder of my time at TAM DAO.
4, 5, 6 Jan – NIHN BIN to TAM DAO by a series of buses and motorcycle taxis. I think at least one of the drivers was sober, but I may be wrong. TAM DAO boasts some trails and great bamboo stands, and I enjoyed the 3 nights spent here. Ask the locals about a hike up the stone steps to a military guarded tower, and a jeep track that runs north around the village.
Notable Birds Today: Golden-throated Barbet, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, White-gorgeted Flycatcher taking a bath, Mountain Bulbul, Chestnut Bulbul, Striated Yuhina, Grey Laughingthrush, Black-throated Laughingthrush, Collared Owlet (heard), Eye-browed Wren Babbler, Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler, Red-billed Scimitar Babbler, Streaked Scimitar Babbler, Lesser yellownape, Rufous-capped Babbler, White-browed Piculet, Short-tailed Parrotbills on 4 separate occasions, Chestnut Bunting (male and female), White-tailed Robin, Red headed Trogon, Sultan Tit (Yellow crest), Chestnut crowned Warbler, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush male. In the fruiting trees were Gray-backed Thrush (male and female), Gray-winged Blackbird (male and female). 46 species in 2.5 days
Jan 7 – TAM DAO is reasonably close to HANOI’s Airport , so it may be possible to avoid Hanoi all together. Overnight in HANOI, eat street meat, feel ill.
Jan 8 - Early flight out of HANOI.