My family and I lived in Suva, Fiji during this time period while working at the Colonial War Memorial Hospital in Suva. Information on birding Fiji provided below.
Primary Locations On Viti Levu, the primary locations were Pipeline Road, Radio Tower Road, Namosi Road, Suva shoreline (Suva Point), Monasavu Dam, and Nasinu rice fields. Additional information is provided for sites in Taveuni and Kadavu. These three islands hold all but three of the Fiji Island Endemics. Rotuma Myzomela is only found on Rotuma (which involves an expensive flight that only goes once per week or a ferry that takes 2.5 days each way). Ogea Monarch is only found on Ogea (there is very intermittent ferry service to this island). Fiji Petrel nests on the island of Gau and is best found in the waters southwest of Gau. Information on pelagic birding in Fiji is found in a separate trip report.
Fiji Pelagic Trip Reports
Birds and Reference material:
We downloaded sounds for target species to our MP3 player from xeno-canto
Xeno Canto
There are no public recordings for Pink-billed Parrotfinch or Long-legged Warbler
I obtained a copy of “Birds of Fiji, Tonga and Samoa” from Dick Watling who operates Environment Consultants Fiji located in Tamavua. This field guide has adequate illustrations and text on all the possible species.
Environment Consultants Fiji
Airport: We flew into and out of Nadi International Airport (west side of the main island). When my father and sister-in-law visited us, they flew into Nadi and on to Suva (Nausori) airport. Additional airports on Taveuni (north end of the island) and Kadavu (in Vunisea, central part of the island) exist. Fiji Airways provides internal air flights. Fiji Airways
Guides: I birded on my own except for the Monasavu Dam area. I hired Vili Masibalavu for the trip up to Monasavu Dam. His email is below. vmasibalavu AT conservation.org
He can guide to other locations in Fiji or put you in contact with guides on other Fiji islands. I would highly recommend contacting him if you are looking for a guide. I guess it is possible to find Long-legged Warbler without him, but he knows territories, their habit/voice and has the voice recorded.
Timing of the trip: I was here during the Fijian winter. This is supposedly the dry season but we had plenty of rain during the month of July. August, however, was quite nice with minimal rain.
Transportation:
We did not have a car while here, so we rented only when a car/4WD was needed. It is easy to get to the start of Pipeline Road by taxi (from downtown Suva) and then take a bus/taxi back once you get to the other end. Namosi road can be reached by taxi but logistically is much easier by car as you would need to pay the taxi to stay with you the entire day (I only saw one taxi on this road while I was there). Four wheel drive is necessary for the Monasavu Dam area. We rented a 4WD from Budget Rental Car in Suva (corner of Matua Street and Foster Road, near the Narain Wharf) for both trips to the Monasavu Dam. They had a special sale so I was able to get a 4WD truck for a very reasonable rate for 3 days in July and then I rented a 4WD Suzuki Jimny when I went in August. Getting up Monasavu Dam was much easier in the truck but we were able to do it in the Jimny. In 2012, you could not make it in two wheel drive.
We rented from Central Rental Car Central Rental Car for regular cars. They are located on the east side of Victoria Parade street in downtown Suva, across from the Ministry of Information Communication and Technology (next to the Total Gas Station). Their prices for small cars were cheaper than Budget but their 4WD prices were much more expensive.
Language: The official language is English. I did not have a problem but the more rural you are, the possibilty exists that English is not understood.
Money: Currency is the Fijian dollar. Exchange rate was approximately US$0.56 = Fijian $1 while we were there. ATMs were everywhere in Suva and the airport.
Lodging: We lived in an apartment in Suva. Most people stay at the Raintree Lodge when birding the Suva area. The two best hotels in Suva were the Holiday Inn (which is near the southwest side of downtown Suva) and the Novotel which is on Queens Road (west of Suva on the main highway).
On Taveuni, I stayed at the Garden Island Resort. Garden Island Resort The Garden Island resort is nice but somewhat expensive (unless you live in Fiji and can get a local rate). Those on a budget may choose First Light Inn which is next to the Garden Island Resort. Phone is 679 8880339. Email is firstlight@connect.com.fj Both of these are close to the pier and a short distance from the road up Des Voeux Peak. Both are a 30+ minute drive from the airport.
On Vunisea, Kadavu, most stay at Biana Guest House which is near the old wharf. The phone is (679) 9370242
Directions and information on birding sites: I have provided coordinates for many of the locations. Simply cut and past my coordinates into Google Maps and you can see the exact locations. You must use Google Maps with these coordinates.
Viti Levu Island
Pipeline Road: This area is reached from the Princess Road north of Suva. Set you odometer at 0 at the junction of Princess road and Matta Road in Suva (Fiji Institute of Technology is on the corner). Go north on Princess Road through Tamavua. You will pass the Australian Embassy (left side of the road) and then the USA embassy (right side of the road). After 8.9KM, you will see the Colo-I-Suva Forest Park on the right (which has similar but not as good of birding as Pipeline road). The headquarters (where you pay your $5 entrance fee) is across the road from the park entrance. In 200 meters, you will see the Raintree lodge on your left. Go another 900 meters past the Raintree lodge and turn left. The sign here says Colo-I-Suva Vill Rd. The road is paved and there is a simple covered bus stop here. Go 200 meters and turn left (sign says Savura Road and Taquairu Settlement). Go 1,000 meters on this dirt road and you will come to a water tank. Coordinates here are -18.048103,178.444976. Pipeline road is to the left of this water tank. There is a gate at the entrance to Pipeline Road but it was always open and the villagers told me that it always stays open. It is approximately 3.5 miles to walk downhill on pipeline road to Wailoku. I walked it every time. If you tried to drive, you would need a 4WD, and I would not recommend it. The gate at the south end of pipeline road (Wailoku area) was locked about half the times that I was there, but the people at the house have the key and always unlocked it for me (beware of the dog at this house). A bus or taxi can be caught in Wailoku but if you want a taxi, you will need to walk down the road because they are not regular. The bus will take you all the way to the downtown Suva bus stop and costs FJ $1.15.
Radio Tower Road: Follow the same directions for Pipeline road. However, when you come to the water tower (start of Pipeline Road), go straight (do not turn left). You can walk/drive another 800 meters to a house with a chain across the road. Coordinates are -18.046073,178.439426 You cannot drive beyond this chain. Continue walking on the road to the radio towers. There is good forest towards the end of the road. Also at this house is an overgrown road downhill to some simple farms. This area was good for us as well.
Namosi Road. Namosi road goes north from Queens Road approximately 26.2 miles west of the Suva market. The road is east of the town of Navua. As you are going west on Queens road from Suva, you will pass the turn for Nabukavesi village. Immediately after that will be the bridge over the Rio Camaisala. Approximately 200 meters after the bridge, there is a road that turns north. This is the road to Namosi. The coordinates are -18.159696,178.235278. There is a sign for Namosi and the marker on the south side of the road says 25.4 KM. There is also a sign for the Kilo Eco Adventure Park here. Turn and go north on Namosi Road. The Eco Adventure Park is on the left in about 500meters. The road goes for over 20KM before it reaches Namosi, but the best birding is well before Namosi. After 8Km from Queens Road, you will enter good forest. The best area is the highest point of the road (over 10KM from the junction with Queens Road). You will recognize this spot as you have a great view to the south and it is the last time that you can look back and see the ocean. At this site, there is also an area to pull over and park (right side of the road as you are going north) with trash from people picnicking at the spot. Walk north from this spot for several KMs. This is the best spot for the rare Pink-billed Parrotfinch.
Monasavu Dam. Coordinates for the dam are -17.756534,178.050613.
At Sawani, go north from Princess Road (set your odometer at 0 here). There is a gas station here. Make sure that you have a full tank of gas. Go north. You will almost immediately go over a bridge. (After 15KM, you will bear to the right). After 25.3KM from Princess Road, turn left (Marroon building here) (Coordinates are -17.900342,178.34233). After 6.5KM turn left (Coordinates are -17.867781,178.306496). After 39.5KM turn left (Coordinate are -17.745795,178.126616). Go 6.6Km and turn left (Coordinates are -17.723211,178.094033). There is a sign for Monasavu at this left turn. You will go up a number of switchbacks. After 7.8KM you will turn left (Coordinates for the turn left are -17.736608,178.054969) into the area for the dam and shortly come to a locked gate. At the locked gate (coordinates -17.742801,178.056021), turn right to the offices. The offices are usually open around 9am (sometimes earlier). Get the key to the gate and go through the gate. Go to the dam and over the dam (apparently, there are no LLW territories between the locked gate and the dam). After crossing the dam, start looking for long-legged Warbler habitat. Look for areas where there is a stream that meets the road and walk up the stream, looking for waterfall type areas. There are also some areas prior to the locked gate. I will not provide exact territories as I was guided to these areas on my first two trips here.
Suva Point is at the end of Laucala Bay Road (coordinates -18.149909,178.454683) at its intersection with Beach Road. This is near the Vodafone Arena and the TFL stadium. This area is the best area in Suva for shorebirds. The birds roost on the jetty from Suva Point at high tide. As the tide drops they can be found on the exposed shore south of the jetty. If you go south on Queen Elizabeth Road from its intersection with Laucala Bay Road, you will see (at low tide) exposed mudflats/sand to the east). The best areas area is opposite the Corpus Christi Teachers College and the first 200 meters south of the intersection of Queen Elizabeth Road and Laucala Bay Road. As the tide is coming up, it pushes the birds off the spot opposite Corpus Christi Teachers College to the area just north. If the tide gets very high or there are people on the sand/mudflats, the birds roost on the jetty off Suva Point.
You can find tides for Suva Harbor at the following website:
Suva Tides
Nasinu Rice Fields (coordinates are -18.047828,178.534012). This area is between Nasinu and the bridge over the Rewa river to Nausori. As you are going east on Kings Road from Nasinu towards Nausori, you will pass the Fiji College of Agriculture on your right. Turn on the first road to the right after the College of Agriculture (coordinates are -18.045594, 178.530471). After about 700 meters there is a dirt road that goes to the right (this is opposite the rice field offices/experimental areas). There was a gate with a lock on this road but it was open every time I went. There were lots of White-faced Herons in these ponds and it looks like a good area for shorebirds. We were looking for Java Sparrow in the area but did not see any.
Kadavu
There are four endemics on this island (Velvet Dove, Crimson Shining-Parrot, Kadavu Honeyeater and Kadavu Fantail). In addition, you will want to see the race of Golden Whistler (kandavensis) which is split by some as White-throated Whistler. I went to Vunisea which is the main town on the island and the primary location that everyone goes to see the endemics. You can either take a ferry or fly to Vunisea. At the time I was staying in Fiji, there was only one flight per week from Suva to Vunisea. It would be possible (if the weather was good and you were lucky) to take the overnight ferry from Suva to Vunisea, get off the ferry and walk to and down the Namara Road and get all the endemics and then take the same ferry back to Suva (i.e. not having to spend the night). This would be the cheapest option but runs the risk of missing something. I would, however, recommend staying one night (Biana Guest House). At the time that I write this, there is a ferry that departs on Tuesday night (arriving Wednesday morning) and then a ferry by a different company that departs Suva on Wednesday night (arriving Thursday morning) and departing around 11am on Thursday. You must realize that if you are departing on a ferry that they do not always leave on time (they often leave either early or late). I found the ferries depart from Suva on time or late but they can leave early or late from the outer islands.
Once in Vunisea, you need to find the six way “roundabout” in the center of town. It is near the island hospital and the coordinates are -19.048144,178.163905. At this roundabout, take the road to Namara (there was a sign) or you can simply ask the locals. There are essentially three roads that go east from this roundabout and it is the middle road. You will be able to see the bay on the south side of the island from this road but not be able to access the bay from this road. I saw the dove, parrot fantail, and whistler all on this road by the time I reached the following coordinates: -19.039909,178.170476. The forest gets better the farther you go east from Vunisea towards Namara. I would recommend plugging these coordinates that I have listed above into Google Maps as it will show you exactly where to go. I only saw Kandavu Honeyeater in town. I did not see it on this road.
Taveuni
There are three main targets for Taveuni (Orange Dove, Red Shining Parrot, and Silktail), plus it is worth looking for the Giant Honeyeater subspecies on Taveuni since it looks and sounds different. I only birded Des Voeux Peak. This is the best area on the island and all the specialties are there (although Orange Dove can be difficult). I hired a 4WD to take me up just before daylight (he dropped me off at the gate just as the sun was rising). It was a 45 minute drive from the Garden Island Resort. Plan on paying FJ $80-100 for someone to drive you up and drop you off. You could also hire them to stay with you for the morning and drive you back down when done or you could walk the entire way down (as I did). I arranged for this at the time I got off the ferry. There will be plenty of 4WD taxis waiting when the ferry arrives. Otherwise, you could have the place you are staying arrange it (but the price will likely be higher than what you can negotiate on the street).
The lower elevation of Des Voeux is not as good as it is cut. The goal would be to get up to the gate (about 8KM from the main road) and bird that area. The Google Map coordinates for the road that goes up Des Voeux Peak are -16.802929,179.990816. The gate was open when I was there, but I did not go higher up from the gate. Once you get dropped off at the gate, you can either walk up hill or start back downhill. Once going downhill from the gate, there is a trail to the south (left as you are going downhill, close to the gate). This trail is talked about in prior trip reports. I walked into the forest and down that trail and had my only Silktail (My information was to get into the forest to see Silktail; that it was more difficult just from the road). After 50 meters in (along the forest trail), this trail has a deep gully that was difficult to cross and would not be advised for people with any difficulty walking. I saw Silktail about 75 meters down this trail (after crossing the gully). There is a small fee to go up Des Voeux fee, payable at the village. You can pay your fee at the last house in the village (the last house as you are going up the road but the first house as you are coming down). Pay on the way back down (since you will be going up in the dark).
People also go to Bobby’s Nabogiono Farm, telephone (679) 9238612 nabogiono@yahoo.com.au
This location is about 1 hour south of the Garden Island Resort and is supposedly a guaranteed site for a male Orange Dove.
Trip List:
I saw all of the Fiji endemics except for the Rotuma Myzomela, Ogea Monarch and the lorikeet (which has not been seen in years).
Pacific Black Duck - uncommon but seen on Gau island and a few places on Viti Levu (especially just north of the bridge over the Rewa River on the road between Nausori and Suva)
(Red Junglefowl) – a bird on the walk down Des Voeux Peak before reaching the village. Not sure how wild this species is here.
Brown Booby – occasionally seen from shore in various locations
Lesser Frigatebird – occasionally seen from shore on the west side of Suva
Great Egret – one bird found at the Nasinu rice fields was the 3rd record for Fiji (photographs loaded into eBird)
White-faced Heron – common at Nasinu rice fields and the area south of Suva Point. Otherwise, the occasional bird was seen
Pacific Reef-Heron – uncommon but regularly seen south of Suva Point. Good numbers along the drive from Nadi to Suva
Striated Heron – one bird along the shore on Taveuni near the Garden Island resort
Swamp Harrier – uncommon but regularly seen
Fiji Goshawk – common, a pair was regular around my apartment in Suva, but also regular in the forest. Most common on the lower portion of Des Voeux Peak
Peregrine Falcon – one bird seen downtown Suva
Purple Swamphen – one bird flushed from a ditch on the walk down Des Voeux Peak
Masked Lapwing – one bird at the airport at Vunisea, Kadavu
Pacific Golden-Plover – common at Suva Point from July 24 onwards but not prior
Double-banded Plover – one bird on the beach west of Pacific Harbor on June 1. Not seen in the area before or after so presumably a migrant through the area
Gray-tailed Tattler – one bird in basic plumage, photographed and uploaded to eBird
Wandering Tattler – common at Suva Point area, with numbers significantly increasing in mid-August
Whimbrel – one bird spent the winter in the Suva Point area
Bar-tailed Godwit – about 25 wintered in the Suva Point area, also seen in the harbor at Gau Island
Ruddy Turnstone – first seen on August 26 at the Suva Point area
Black-naped Tern – uncommon in offshore areas (to the reef)
Great Crested Tern – common along coastal areas
Rock Pigeon – abundant in urban areas
Metallic Pigeon – uncommon but seen in a variety of locations including Pipeline Road, drive up to Monasavu Dam, Nausori airport, and Vunisea, Kadavu
Spotted Dove – common
Friendly Ground-Dove – one bird seen and another heard on radio tower road area (opposite last house with chain). Take the overgrown road down to the forest area
Many-colored Fruit-Dove – uncommon but seen on both Namosi and Pipeline road at fruiting trees
Orange Dove – six seen on Des Voeux Peak including one male
Golden Dove – common at various locations (Monasavu Dam, Pipeline road, Namosi Road)
Velvet Dove – uncommon on Namara Road (east of Vunisea, Kadavu)
Peale's Imperial-Pigeon – common in forests at all locations
Collared Lory – common in forests and urban locations
Crimson Shining-Parrot – four seen on the Namara Road east of Vunisea, Kadavu
Red Shining-Parrot – very common on Des Voeux Peak Road near the gate. I saw 9 on my morning there.
Masked Shining-Parrot - most common on Pipeline Road, surprising less common on Namosi Road where seen in much fewer numbers
Fan-tailed Cuckoo – more commonly heard than seen but regular on Monasavu Dam road, Pipeline road and Namosi Road
Barn Owl –one seen in the dark on the drive up to Monasavu
White-rumped Swiftlet – common
Collared Kingfisher – common
Orange-breasted Myzomela – common in all areas, including my apartment in Suva
Wattled Honeyeater – common in all areas on Viti Levu, including being seen frequently in downtown Suva
Kadavu Honeyeater – can be tricky, I only saw one and it was in the town of Vunisea (apparently it is easiest in town). I also heard one near the airport. Coordinates were -19.046511,178.161571 and -19.051551,178.159747.
Giant Honeyeater – common (especially by voice) in forests on Viti Levu. The subspecies (viridis) on Des Voeux Peak sounded and looks different than the subspecies on Viti Levu.
Polynesian Triller – seen on all three islands and was common
Slaty Monarch – relatively common on Viti Levu and Taveuni in forest
Fiji Shrikebill – common on Viti Levu and Taveuni in Forest
Black-throated Shrikebill – uncommon. I saw twice in the Pipeline Road area (male and female once and male only on the second time), but it is very difficult here. Seen on both trips to Monasavu Dam which is the best location.
Vanikoro Flycatcher – common on all three islands
Blue-crested Flycatcher – regular in forest on Viti Levu and Taveuni. Always in mixed flocks.
Silktail – Taveuni endemic
Pacific Swallow
Red-vented Bulbul
Fiji Bush-Warbler – very common in forest once the voice is known.
Long-legged Warbler – in appropriate habitat in the Monasavu Dam area, it was regularly heard. Quite difficult, however, to see. It took me over 6 hours the first day before I caught a glimpse of one.
Island Thrush – seen in forest at all the Viti Levu spots and quite common on Des Voeux Peak Road
Streaked Fantail – common in forest on Taveuni and Viti Levu
Kadavu Fantail – two seen on Namara Road, east of Vunisea, Kadavu
Pacific Robin – seen regularly in forest on Namosi Road and Monasavu Dam road and Des Voeux Peak road. Rare on Pipeline road.
Golden Whistler – some split this as White-throated Whistler and Fiji Whistler. It was common in all forested areas. White-throated Whistler (kandavensis) was seen on Namara Road in Kadavu and (vitiensis) was seen on Gau island. The Taveuni subspecies is torquata and was quite common on Des Voeux Peak Road.
Layard's White-eye – common in forested areas (Namosi Road, Pipeline Road, Monasavu Dam area)
Silver-eye – common and occurs in urban areas
Fiji Woodswallow – common in the west of Viti Levu on wires on the road, less common but still regular in the east
Polynesian Starling – uncommon along Des Voeux Peak, Namosi Road, Pipeline and Monasavu Dam. Common on Kadavu.
Jungle Myna – slightly less common than the Common Myna
Common Myna - abundant
Red Avadavat – common in suitable grassy habitat
Fiji Parrotfinch – common, occurred regularly around my apartment in Suva
Pink-billed Parrotfinch – rare. One was heard in the Monasavu Dam area but never seen. Fortunately, my father and I saw one on Namosi Road. (To put its rarity into perspective, I did 7 trips to Pipeline/Radio Tower road, 5 trips to Namosi Road and 2 trips to Monasavu Dam and only saw this species once).
Jim Holmes