Madagascar is a poor country, hopefully not as populated as India; there is no more forest outside the national parks, all the trees have been cut until the top of the mountains; the wetlands are really endangered, being transformed in rice fields. The malagasy people hunt and eat anything, so few birds where seen outside the parks. If you have the courage to travel by taxi-brousse it will be cheaper but very time consuming and tiring. We quickly gave up and used planes and private taxis between the sites, so it was an expensive trip. The entrance fees of the National Parks and the high price asked by some of the guides are important too.
In 77 days we spent 7050€ for 2 persons, of wich 1255€ for the long distance taxis, 232€ for the boats (Masoala + Nosy Ve), and 1010€ for the internal flights. You have to add to this the international flight and the visa.
Our birdlist is of 197 species. We missed the Madagascar Pochard because we didn’t know the site where it was rediscovered, but having read now the Birdquest report of their 2008 Comoros and northern Madagascar trip, we know that the lake is in the Bealanana region, a look on Google Earth seems to show a crater lake near the village of Ambatosia. Anyway a good 4x4 is needed and a permit from the Peregrine Fund we suppose. We missed the Madagascar Red Owl too, and this Birdquest tour saw a pair around the researchers camp near this same lake. We were very upset to miss the Bernier’s Vanga, everybody seems to see this bird in Masoala NP, but having no guide knowing where to look for it we had few chances. And we gave up at the end for the Slender-billed Flufftail, it was another expense to go to Anjozorobe, and we didn’t know if any birding guide would be in the area.
We saw 35 species of lemurs, and plenty of chameleons, frogs, lizards and insects.
Arrived in Antananarivo the taxi booked by the hotel was waiting for us (35000Ar); the Hotel Le Jardin d'Antinamena is simple but clean, 38000Ar the room (15€). Went to Lake Alarobia with the taxi, he waited for us there : Mad Little Grebe, Common Squacco Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Great White, Black, Cattle and Dismorphic Egret, Red-billed Teal, White-faced and Knob-billed Duck, Yellow-bellied Kite,Common Moorhen, Mad Coucal, Mad Swamp Warbler, Mad White-eye, Souimanga Sunbird, Common Myna, Mad Fody.
The following morning, we were at 6:30 at the office of Transtour (Transport first class), route des hydrocarbures, were a new minivan containing 9 persons to Majunga, 30€/pers with lunch; we had booked from France by email and it was a very comfortable trip until the Ankarafantsika NP where the van left us at 2:15pm.
NKARAFANTSIKA NP - 16/09
Here at the office you are welcome by a guide, and this guide will probably be yours unless he doesn't speak your language, so you have not really the choice; ours is named David, and we were not very convinced first of his knowledge, but he was a very good guide, (unless he does'nt whistle as seems to do Jacky). After he explained us all the guided walks possibilities, we set up our tent for 2,40€ per night. There are good bungalows too; the camp is unfortunately close to the road, but there is not always too much traffic; we had our tent but there are any to rent too; the restaurant is good. As we have no rush to find the birds, we went out every morning at 6am for 3 or 4 hours, then back when it was too hot, and had every evening a nocturnal walk at 6.3O until 8 or 8:30. In 3 days we saw all the specialities and much more (72 species) and the 8 species of lemurs, and chameleons (oustalet's and rhinoceros), a fossa (that's luck!) and other interesting things.
Birds seen (72): African Darter, Common Squacco Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Striated Heron, Great White, Cattle, Black, Dismorphic Egrets, Humlot's and Purple Heron, Madagascar Crested and Glossy Ibis, Yellow-billed Stork, White-faced and Knob-billed Duck, Mad. Fish-Eagle, Mad Harrier Hawk, Mad. Buzzard, Yellow-billed Kite, Banded Kestrel, France's Sparrowhawk, Mad. Kestrel, Eleonora's Falcon, White-breasted Mesite, Mad. Buttonquail, Mad. Jacana, Black-winged Stilt, Kittlitz and Three-banded Plover, Common Sandpiper, Namaqua Dove, Mad. Green Pigeon, Mad. Turtle Dove, Grey-headed Lovebird, Greater and Lesser Vasa Parrot, Mad. Coucal, Mad. Lesser Cuckoo, Red-capped Coua, Coquerel's and Crested Coua, Mad. Scops-Owl, Mad. Nightjar, African Palm Swift, Mascarene Martin, Mad. Kingfisher, Mad. Bee-eater, Mad. Cuckoo Roller, Schlegel's Asity, Mad. Bulbul, Long-billed Greenbul, Mad. Magpie Robin, Mad. Hoopoe, Mad. Paradise Flycatcher, Common Newtonia, Mad. Cisticola, Common Jery, Mad. White-eye, Mad. Green Sunbird, Soumanga Sunbird, White-Headed, Chabert's, Sickle-billed, Rufous and Van Dam's Vangas, Mad. Cuckoo Shrike, Common Myna, Crested Drongo, Pied Crow, Sakalava Weaver.
We prefered to leave for Majunga with a taxi-brousse, we've been waiting 1h30, then it took 2h45 to get to the town; the seat is 5000ar (2€) and we bought several seats to be more confortable, but we should have paid a taxi as a pickpocket emptied our pockets when we arrived in Majunga at the taxi-brousse station, about 30€ where stolen; night at Hotel Chez Chabaud closed to the station, 20000ar (8€).
SAKALAVA RAIL AT LAKE KINKONY - 21 Sept
We decided to try to go to Kinkony lake for the Sakalava Rail; only a few informations found on the web (Tropical birding and Naturetrek tours), and a few things from our Bradt travel guide and a few Birdlife infos; to avoid the tiring, we prefered to go step by step; we first took the ferry at the port of Majunga to Katsepy (1€), the trip took 1h30; once on Katsepy beach, we booked 2 seats in the taxi-brousse for Mitsinjo the following morning and headed to the hotel Chez Chabaud at 200-300m on the right side (tel 032 02 316 29), and we had a good cabin along the beach for 12€. No birds seen from the ferry, and very few in the garden's hotel. Crowned Sifakas at the lighthouse (2 hours along the beach at low tide, it can be dangerous when the tide comes up as you can get stuck in some places, you can walk on the road) and along the beach on the way to the lighthouse.
We left at 9am for Mitsinjo; after 3 hours the bus stopped for lunch at Namakia, then it is about 15km to Mitsinjo, The driver left us at the door of Hotel Jean Cesar, a simple family hotel, the rooms are OK (10000ar/4€), just the facilities are not very good and not always running water, but never mind; the owner, Mrs Jean Cesar, is very friendly and speaks french; she easily forgets the dinner, remind her several times that you want one and ask for someting simple, it was good (1,20€); don't expect a breakfast; we asked her how to go to lake Kinkony and find Mr Tavaratra, the fisherman leaving at Makary (Manisakomby) and working for Birdlife international; she said that he should be actually at home, and she called the boatmen to discust with us; the 2 young asked 5000ar/pers (2€) one way to take us at Mr Tavaratra's house. We agreed for the next day at 6am; on time, one boatman came and we left for a walk of about 3/4h until the metal canoe where we've been waiting until 8 am for leaving; they never hurry. 3 other persons were with us, and we went along the river, very quickly we saw several Madagascar Pratincoles, then Humblot's Heron, White-fronted Plover, and a piece of luck : a Madagascar Sacred Ibis. Then we turned in a smaller river, we saw a Decken's Sifaka in a tree, we stopped for a meal at a small village; then a long way again, and very hot, until we reached the lake and crossed it until the village (Mad. Sacred Ibis in flight). The whole trip took 5 hours.
Disappointment when we arrived, Mr Tavaratra was away; impossible to join him with the mobile phone (existing in the region since 2 months). A fisherman called Gabriel helped us, knowing a few words of french; we showed him the Sakalava Rail in the book and he said OK, I can take you in my boat; we put our tent up along the lake, with all the children very interested around us, then we left at 2:30 in the small canoe with Gabriel; after 1h45 of research in small canals inside the reeds, he heard them, and we approched very closely a pair of SAKALAVA RAILS with 3 chicks! We observed them during a very long time, absolutely happy; at this moment we forgot all the inconfort of the trip.
Back to the shore, Gabriel asked us 5000ar (2€) for each of us; Mr Tavaratra arrived later, we told him that we saw the rail and we spoke with him a few minutes; he told us that they breed in august; we were glad that we had some food with us as it seemed to be a problem for them to prepare something, we didn't insist; our filter for the water was a must, all these people have no toilets and go anywhere for their needs, do washing and everything in the lake so even with pills this water would not be attractive;
The day after, back to the Rail at 6am with Gabriel, this time we quickly saw 3 birds, a long time again as they are not shy at all.
Back to the shore, we went to the market wich is every wednesday, a nice experience, and we bought some cooked fish, cakes and bananas. At 12:30 the metal canoe was here, full of people and supplies bought on the market, all in all we were 13 for the 4 hours trip back to Mitsinjo, that was an experience too! We saw the Decken's Sifakas again;
Birds seen (45)during this trip from Mitsinjo to Lake Kinkony : Reed Cormorant, African Darter, Madagascar Squacco Heron, Little Bittern, Green-backed Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Great White, Cattle and Black Egrets, Purple, Grey and Humblot's Heron, Mada. Sacred ibis, African Spoonbill, Yellow-billed Stok, White-faced and Knob-billed Ducks, Mad. Harrier Hawk, Mad. Buzzard, Yellow-billed Kite, Mad. Kestrel, Sakalava Rail, Lesser Gallinule, Mad. Pratincole, Black-winged Stilt, White-fronted Plover, Common Greenshank, Whiskered Tern, Namaqua Dove, Mad. Green Pigeon, Grey-headed Lovebird, Greater Vasa Parrot, Mad. Coucal, African Palm Swift, Mad. Kingfisher, Mad. Bee-eater, Mad. Bulbul, Mad. Magpie Robin, Mad. Wagtail, Mad. Swamp Warbler, White-headed and Sickle-billed Vanga, Crested Drongo, Pied Crow, Mad. Fody, Mad. Mannikin.
For those in a hurry, and having a car, they should know that there is a road going until Makary village, they just have to go until Mitsinjo, then after a river crossing on a boat the road leads to the lake shore. The best would be to take a local in the car who could give the indications;
Leaving Mitsinjo back to Namakia was not so easy as the buses are at 2am, but a jeep with doctors working in the region and sleeping in our hotel took us there in half an hour; alternately it can be possible to rent the entire bus (28 seats) for 56000ar (22€).
It is possible to see the Bernier's Teal for cheap, in the same trip it just needs some time and some effort;
At Namakia we stayed at Hotel Cercle, full of chinese people working at the sugar factory; the hotel is now owned by the chinese but we could have a room (Barn Owl under the roof of the house holding our room). We went in search of informations about the way to go to Ampitsopitsoka on the coast, to see the Bernier's Teal. The manager named Ferdinand was of some help as he received many people of Birdlife International in the hotel; he told us to visit Mr Clovis Zafimana who is working for Bird. Int, that we did, asking in the village where his house was. He received us and first explained that we had to go with a guide, but as he was leaving home for 2 days he couldn't go with us; sadly he didn't tell us that it could not be done in one day, as the tide is important to go up and down the river;
So the way to join Ampitsopitsoka is : from Namakia take a bus wich is in the central street of Namakia to Andolomikopaka 1500ar/pers 9km, this is a sort of port where we can take a small canoe. we negociated the full bus for 20000ar (8€) with the driver Noélie at 7:30am. He asked to a boatman to take us until Ampitsopitsoka (30000ar/12€ return), it took us 2h one way, on the river sandbanks we saw many Common Sandpipers and Whimbrels, White-faced Ducks, Hook-billed Vanga and the best several Madagascar Plovers; one was banded : red and blue on the left, silver and red on the right. Arrived at the seashore, we were quickly contacted by a guide, and he told us that the Bernier's Teals were further along the mangroves on the opposite shore and that we needed a canoe to get there, but it is necessary to spend a night in the village to prepare the trip at the good tidal time; there is a hotel here with a restaurant, and Birdlife built some shelters on the beach for camping, why don't they give any information? All our things were in Namakia, and we couldn't contact the hotel, we decided to go back. the sandbanks facing us, rather far, (and no scope) were full of birds, we counted 7 Madagascar Ibises. We were disappointed to leave so close to the bird... Back at the port, we walked the 9km from the port to town, there is no bus in the afternoon, but alternately Noelie has a mobile phone and it could be possible to call him for the drive. We should have done this trip again, but our room at hotel Cercle was not available after our return; that should be a problem sometimes as the chinese are numerous;
The only way to leave Namakia for Katsepy to take the ferry back to Majunga is the taxi-brousse wich leaves at 4am, you can book through Ferdinand at the hotel and the car comes to take you there. Don't rely on the chinese kindness, they were going to the ferry, and we asked them to give us a lift, they asked 40€! we said no.
NOTES : In all the villages people give all the prices in French Malagasy, so you have to divide per 5 to have the price in ariary.
Both at lake Kinkony and Ampitsopitsoka they seemed unprepared to independant birders arrival; they think that only organised tours can come, we tried to explain that more birders could come in the future if they know the way.
For those wanting the Sakalava Rail, four days are needed, if they add the trip for Bernier's Teal, 6 to 7 days.
So, having left Ampitsopitsoka without the Bernier's Teal, we tried to find it in the Betsiboka Delta; we had some help from a deutsh couple (thanks Anitha and Teun) who tried a few days before us and met Eric RASOLONDRALANY (e.rasolondranaly@fanamby.org.mg), working for the NGO FANAMBY, trying to create a reserve with the agreement of the locals and in their interest. He was happy to organise a motor boat trip in the delta, with Dabedy as guide; they didn't want any money, their interest is to show to the locals that the area can attract tourists so they need to protect it, but we paid for the fuel wich is expensive, the cost was of 60€, still cheaper than an organised tour in a travel agency. Left at 8am, one hour is necessary to join the islands and mangroves, we tried hard before coming back at 3pm, but we couldn't find the Teals; we saw very few birds, 2 Madagascar Sacred Ibises and 1 Greater Crested Terns, some herons and whistling-ducks, that's all; Anitha and Teun missed them too some days ago; we gave up the idea of trying again the following day, but we were very disappointed; we should have stayed at Ampitsopitsoka!
What a terrible journey from Majunga to Diego Suarez! It took 23 hours in the taxi brousse, and we don't count the 3 hours of waiting for the departure; left at 8 pm (5 announced) and arrived at 7pm the following day, with a very loud music all the way, we had an accident when the driver fell asleep for a short second, but he could manage to get the minibus out off the ditch, then we had a breakdown 4Okm from the destination... we arrived very tired and stopped in the first hotel : Orchidée, don't go there, they are nice chinese persons but it is really dirty; the following day we stayed at the nearby Hotel Rascasse 35000ar (14€).
MONTAGNE D'AMBRE NP - 3rd-5th Oct
We spent 3 nights in MONTAGNE D'AMBRE NP, a taxi took us to the entrance for 45000ar(18€). We paid 40000ar for the park, and the guide is 10000ar (4€) per hour; we had no choice for the guide, as only Laudéa was there, and he didn't know a lot about birds, he was more specialised in chameleons, anyway we saw the birds that we wanted to see, and we liked this forest; we saw most of the birds along the 3kms from the entrance to the campsite; very few in fact on the trails that we visited with the guide; the Amber mountain Rock-Thrush was easy, and we had a male sleeping above our tent each night; we saw the Crowned and Sandford's Brown and Greater Dwarf Lemurs, a Fossa, a Ring-tailed Mongoose, 5 species of chameleons and 1 Uroplatus;
Birds seen (33): Madagascar Little Grebe, Darter, White-throated Rail, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Mad. Turtle Dove, Greater Vasa Parrot, Mad. Lesser Cuckoo, Mad. Scops Owl (heard), Little Swift, Mad. Spine-tailed Swift, Mad. Pygmy Kingfisher, Mad. Bee-eater, Mad. Cuckoo-Roller, Pitta-like Ground-Roller, Mad. Bulbul, Spectacled Greenbul, White-throated Oxylabes, Mad. Magpie-Robin, Amber Mountain Rock-Thrush, Common Stonechat, Mad. Wagtail, Mad. Paradise Flycatcher, Common and Dark Newtonia, Mad. Brush Warbler, Mad. White-Eye, Mad. Green Sunbird, Souimanga Sunbird, Mad. Blue Vanga, Red-tailed Vanga, Hook-billed Vanga, Mad. Cuckoo-Shrike, Crested Drongo, Nelicourvi Weaver, Mad. Mannikin.
MAROJEJY NP
We flew from Diego Suarez to Sambava. All the informations about the park are on the very good website www.marojejy.com; we called the park a few days in advance to inform them of our arrival the 9/10 for 5 nights/6days and we insisted on the fact that we wanted a birding guide; we bought some supplies in Sambava (we stayed at Hotel Mimi, quiet chinese-run hotel and good restaurant, 25000ar/10€. This is the mother of Bruno from Restaurant Le Régal in Andapa). Margro supermarket is big but empty, we found more things in the small shops; we booked a taxi to take us at 7:30am to the park office for 65000ar, there are 70km on a good road.
When we arrived our guide Moïse and 2 porters were waiting for us; the park is becoming popular so the bungalows were booked, fortunately we had our tent; we payed and began to walk towards the park entrance. From the entrance it is a beautiful forest, we spent the 1st night at camp 1, then 3 nights at camp 2, and the last night at camp 1. From camp 2 we made the tiring walk to camp 3 and back in the same day, because the Red-headed Ground-Roller is in this area, but we only heard it. During the 6 days we had 1,5 day of rain; the birding was very very slow, we walked 8 to 9 hours per day and saw very few birds, so it was hard but very exciting anyway. Moïse is very good, he knows the areas were the birds can be, he knows the sounds, he usually guides the tours like Tropical Birding; we saw the Helmet Vanga 6 times at different places (building their nest), and the Silky Sifakas 3 times above camp 2. We had virtually no response to the tape, so it was patience and perseverance, we had great views of Scaly and Short-legged Ground-Rollers, and a very lucky sighting of Red-tailed Newtonia. We couldn't find or hear the Bernier's Vanga.
Birds seen on the way and in the park (35): Cattle Egret, Green-backed Heron, Hent's Goshawk, Madagascar Buzzard, Madagascar Green and Mad. Blue Pigeon, Red-breasted, Red-fronted and Blue Couas, Mad. Coucal, Malagasy Scops-Owl heard, Alpine Swift, Mad. Bee-eater, Short-legged and Scaly Ground-Rollers, Common Sunird-Asity, Mad. Wagtail, Mad. Cuckoo Shrike, Long-billed and Spectacled Greenbul, Mad. Bulbul, Mad. Magpie-Robin, Forest Rock-Thrush, Common and Red-tailed Newtonia, Mad. Paradise-Flycatcher, Souimanga Sunbird, Mad. White-Eye, Red-tailed, Hook-billed, Chabert's, Helmet and Tylas Vangas, Crested Drongo, Nelicourvi Weaver, Forest Fody, Mad. Mannikin.
Others : Silky Sifaka, White-fronted Brown Lemur, Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur, Ring-tailed Mongoose, 5 sp of chameleons, 1 uroplatus fimbriatus, several sp of frogs of wich the beautiful mantella laevigata.
Notes : Moïse (Mosesy) speaks french, english, spanish, italian an german. His postal adress is : Mosesy MADIOMANANA, ANDRAKATA, ANDAPA 205.
For a rapid contact, leave a message to Mr Bruno at restaurant Le Régal in Andapa, tel 032 046 3629, he can contact Moïse within half a day.
MASOALA NP - 18th-22nd Oct
We flew from Sambava. At Maroantsetra we slept at the good Coco Beach Hotel, along the river; we were contacted by the guide Julien (who doesn't work at the Hotel Masoala anymore) and he proposed us to go for a short nightwalk to see the Aye-aye, that we did for 50000ar (20€) each. He told us that he was able to show us a Red Owl at nest and we decided to do it after our trip to Masoala NP, the 22/10, because it was too late now.
Trying to stay in the park for a reasonable price, we went in front of the Coco Beach hotel to the house of the Arollodge's owner (signposted), he proposed us to camp for 10000ar under a cabin on the beach; we could eat at the lodge restaurant, taking only one plate and not the full meal, it was 12000ar/pers and it was enough, and the breakfast was 6000ar. We payed the entree fee at the ANGAP office in Maroantsetra, and as they had not birding guide available we didn't pay any, Olivier told us that we could have a tracker from the village for a cheaper price (12000 ar/day); we booked a motor boat in town with Adrien, the price is 385000ar (145€) the round trip, + 30000ar for each day of stay in the park because the boat is waiting for you (although it was not there the day of our departure and came from Maroantsetra); we found nobody else to share the boat with us.
For information there where a nest of Madagascar Serpent-Eagle in 2007, but they couldn't find any this year.
At 7am the following day the boat was at the Coco Beach Hotel and we left to the park, the sea was not too rough, it took 1h30. We installed our tent along the beach at the bottom of the lodge. We met our tracker, Raino, a young guy who speaks some few words of french; he walks very silently and has a very good eye, with a book and a pair of binoculars he could become a good guide;
There is a main loop from in the primary forest behind the lodge, that we birded 2 days, from where we heard the Serpent Eagle. The birding is rather slow but sometimes you have a good flock with several species; on this loop we saw the Velvet Asity, Madagascar Wood-Rail and Dusky Greenbul amongst others; we saw the Helmet Vanga at nest in a more degraded forest behind the village wich is closed to the lodge, and the Crossley's Babbler; another day we took a trail in the forest leading to the Tampolo Lodge; this hotel is in a very nice setting, but the forest here is secondary growth; we didn't find the Bernier's Vanga, but in this part we saw a Short-legged Ground-Roller. In this forest some friends saw the Bernier's Vanga a week later, leaded by the guide Armand.
Our last day, we had finished our breakfast and where ready to go for a walk, we saw a bird on a dead branch in a big tree far away, it was a raptor (we were near the restaurant, watching in the direction of the village). It was far but we could see the square form of the head with the crest, the barred chest and belly and a very long tail, (the length of the body without the head); we immediatly though that it was the Serpent-Eagle, but couldn't believe it, it was probably a Hent's Goshawk; we quickly made a short film before it flies away, chased by some Broad-billed Rollers, it was bad but permitted us later to compare the description in several books. We had no doubt after that, we saw the Madagascar Serpent-Eagle, and Olivier confirmed that the bird has already be seen from the lodge, but that it is exceptional.
At dusk, just behind the restaurant, we saw several Collared Nightjars flying off the bushes right behind the bungalows (on the left when you are facing the toilets); we had no time the last morning to check the bush because a storm was announced and we had to leave early to Maroantsetra.
Birds seen (48): Mad. Crested Ibis, Mad. Serpent-Eagle, Mad. Cuckoo-Hawk (above Arollodge), Mad. Sparrowhawk, France's Sparrowhawk, Mad. Wood-Rail (apair with a chick), Greater Crested Tern, Mad. Turtle Dove, Lesser and Greater Vasa Parrot, Red-breasted; Blue, Crested Coua, Rainforest Scops-Owl, Collared Nightjar, Mad. Spine-tailed Swift, Broad-billed Roller, Mad. Cuckoo Roller, Short-legged Ground Roller, Velvet Asity, Mad. Bulbul, Dusky, Long-billed and Spectacled Greenbul, White-throated Oxylabes, Crossley's Babbler, Mad. Magpie-Robin, Mad. Paradise-Flycatcher (at nest), Common Newtonia, Common Jery, Mad. White-Eye, Mad. Green Sunbird, Souimanga Sunbird, White-headed, Chabert's, Mad. Blue, Helmet, Rufous, Red-tailed and Hook-billed Vanga, Tylas, Mad. Cuckoo-Shrike, Mad. Starling, Crested Drongo, Nelicourvi Weaver, Mad. Mannikin.
Others : Lowland Rainforest Rat, Red-ruffed Lemur, Eastern Wolly Lemur, Ring-tailed Mongoose, Lowland Streaked Tenreca snake Langanha madagascariensis, a chameleon Furcifer Pardalis.
Back in Maroantsetra the storm stopped us to go to the Red Owl with Julien, we were very disappointed and tried to change our flight to Tana, but all the next flights were fully booked so we had to leave. Anyway some friends went with him a few days after us and didn't see it, so we don't know if we have to trust him.
Having some friends to meet at Perinet-Mantadia in early november we went to Ranomafana NP first, having 1 week to find the specialities.
RANOMAFANA NP - 26/10 to 1st November included
To get there from Tana we took a taxi to Ambositra for 260000ar (140€) where we spent the night. The high price is mostly due to the fuel wich is 1,20€/l, but we prefered to avoid the taxi-brousse and it was a confortable trip in a good BMW, the driver is Jacques, tel : 033 09 263 43. The day after we took another car to the national park for 140000ar (56€), a small 205 owning to Silvère, tel : 033 12 948 48.
At the entrance of the park, we asked for Loret, they said that he was not available, they called Dauphin, a young guide who said having learnt with Loret. As for birdwatchers the days are longer, he asked 120000ar per day, that we reduced to 80000ar (32€). It is still a good price, but he didn't manage his efforts and we birded from 6am to 3 or 4pm every day.
We stayed at the Rianala campsite, a little bit run down but we had a shelter for the tent, a shower and toilet and electricity, 5000ar/pers; the restaurant is OK with a friendly staff; we asked every evening for hot water in our thermos, and we could have breakfast early in our tent with our coffee and biscuits; there are dorm beds too; the choice to stay here is the best as the cars to go up and down the village are not so many, and a good birding can be lost waiting for a lift;
Day 1 : Dauphin was waiting for us at 6am with a taxi that we paid 20000ar (!) to take us to Vohipara trail, 3 km uproad from the office. Drizzle all the day, but good birding with Rand's and Cryptic Warblers, a female Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity, Grey Emutail, Meller's Duck, Pitta-like Ground-Roller, Madagascar Little Grebe, Yellow-browed Oxylabes;
Day 2 : rain all day; from 6am to 4pm in the lower part of the park, hard birding, not one sound of Brown Mesite;
Day 3 : sunny all day; all the guides were at a reunion, so we were free, we birded the road up to Vohipara entrance from 5:30am to 12. Henst's Goshawk, several Vangas but still no Pollen's, we took the road going up to some antennas, (the road begins from the milestone 2 coming from the park office), after a first river, then after a small stream, we heard and taped a Madagascar Flufftail, very responsive and had a great view of a male. Back on the road and going to Vohipara, there is a bridge and just after it a car park on the left and a viewpoint on the river; on the right side of the bridge there is a cave a few meters further, were some bats are visible, take a lamp;
Day 4 : sunny morning, heavy storms in the afternoon; Vohipara again (we said to Dauphin that we wanted to a cheaper car, we paid 15000ar) very good sighting of a singing Brown Emutail; heard a Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, we slowly went down the slope in the forest towards the bird and stayed about 1h30, taping sometimes; the birds came quite close 3 times, but we just had a frustrating glimpse of the bird. Seen the female Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity again, but not the male;
Day 5 : rainy morning, sunny afternoon; still very quiet, we tried all the morning to find the Brown Mesite; in the afternoon it was so quiet that we concentrated our research on snakes, chameleons, lemurs and insects; then we tried the Mesite again and heard a pair at 4pm. We went through the forest and stayed for a long time taping them sometimes, suddenly we had a brief view of the bird down the slope, that's all.
Day 6 : sunny morning, cloudy afternoon; we had a new guide, Theophile; he seems sure of his capacity of showing us the Pollen's Vanga and the other birds; we go to Vohipara with a car that we pay 10000ar this time; Theo whistles a lot, and is a good imitator. Anyway we couldn't find the Vanga; but this time we had a very good sight of the Rufous-headed Ground-Roller calling from a low branch. We saw the female Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity again, we have been waiting 1 hour for the male but we gave up. In early afternoon we went to the rice paddies up the road because we wanted to see the Madagascar Snipe (that everybody seems to see there), but Theo didn't seem enthousiastic and we missed it; he showed us the frog Mantella baroni wich is superb. Back at the park entrance at 3pm, a little bit disappointed, we stopped the birding for today as a storm was approaching.
Day 7 : sunny day; Ranomafana today with théophile, left at 6am, he whistled the Mesites, quickly a pair answered (same area than 2 days ago); but he had a technique : he told us to stay on the ridge, and went down to drive the birds toward us; this is the way the tour groups do to show these birds, and we didn't like this because we thought that it was disturbing them too much (we saw birding tours every day); but the Mesites came quietly toward us, gently pushed by Théo and answering to his whistle and eating, when we finished to watch them very closely, they went back down the slope. It was great; then we walked in search of the Pollen's Vanga, Théo always calling, as soon as a bird answered and came, we had a great sight of this Vanga, with white underparts; then we added 2 other new birds to our list : Stripe-throated and Wedge-tailed Jery, what a morning! Surely the forest was more lively than the other days, we have to say that Théo is better than Dauphin, although we liked his company and we recognize his knowledge about the sounds and the sites, but he still has to improve his technique;
To be sure to have Théo, call him in advance : 033 042 44 02 or 034 127 78 22. He speaks english too. He knwos the frogs and snakes very well.
At 10:30 we were back at the entrance, Théo proposed to us to go to a site for the snipes; we found a car to take us for 25000ar and wait for us at the place wich is about 12km from Vohipara on the old road (in Vohipara it is the road wich has a barrier); it is tarred then dirt, we stopped at a place of rice paddies wich are not visible from the road (there is a big araucaria tree on the right of the road); we quickly saw 2 Painted Snipes, then a Madagascar Snipe, and added a few birds to the list for the park (although this is outside the park)
At 2pm we were back, with 6 new species on our list, very satisfied;
Birds seen (66): Madagascar Little Grebe, Meller's Duck, Henst's Goshawk, Mad. Buzzard, Yellow-billed Kite, Mad. Kestrel, Mad. Flufftail, Greater Painted Snipe, Madagascar Snipe, Common Sandpiper, Mad. Blue Pigeon, Mad. Green Pigeon, Mad. Turtle Dove, Lesser Vasa Parrot, Mad. Coucal, Mad. Lesser Cuckoo, Red-fronted and Blue Coua, Mad. Black Swift, Mascarene Martin, Mad. Cuckoo-Roller, Pitta-like and Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, Velvet Asity, Common and Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity, Mad. Bulbul, Grey-crowned, Long-billed and Spectacled Greenbul, Yellow-browed and White-throated Oxylabes, Mad. Magpie Robin, Forest Rock-Thrush, Common Stonechat, Mad. Wagtail, Mad. Paradise-Flycatcher, Ward's Flycatcher, Common Newtonia, Mad. Brush-Warbler, Grey and Brown Emutail, Stripe-throated, Green and Wedge-tailed Jery, Rand's Warbler, Cryptic Warbler, Mad. White-Eye, Mad. Green Sunbird, Souimanga Sunbird, White-headed, Chabert's, Mad. Blue, Rufous, Red-tailed, Pollen's and Tylas Vanga, Mad. Cuckoo-Shrike, Mad. Starling, Common Mynah, Crested Drongo, Madagascar and Forest Fody, Nelicourvi Weaver, Mad. Mannikin.
Others : Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur, Greater and Golden Bamboo Lemur, Red-fronted Brown Lemur, Red-bellied Lemur, Milne-Edwards's Sifaka, chameleon Furcifer Baldeatus and Brookesia Superciliaris, frog Mantella aroni, several snakes.
ANDASIBE-MANTADIA NP - 3rd to 7th Nov included
From Ranomafana NP we called Silvère again and he came to take us and we drove until Antsirabe for 210000ar (84€), 5 hours; after a night there, Jacques came from Antananarivo and took us to Andasibe for 280000ar (112€). We spent our first night in the village at the Hotel Orchidée, 40000ar with bathroom; the restaurant is not very good and the service very slow; as we had to meet some friends the following day who had booked at the Eulophellia Lodge we decided to make the expense for a bungalow and be with them. Hopefully they had rent a car because the lodge is very far from the park entrance; if the bungalows are very nice, there is no interest to stay here as you are away all the day, and once you've seen the price of the meals (mediocre), you prefer to eat somewhere else;
The best place to stay is the Hotel Feon'ny Ala, or we saw further on towards the village a new hotel « Mikalo » or something like that which seems good. In front of the Feon'ny Ala there is a small new hotel, wich should be cheaper, owned by Maurice and Patrice's brother, Luc, but at the moment booked by the mining company.
The park has 2 entrances, one between Hotel Feon'ny Ala and the village, another one at Mantadia 1 hour away by car. The new rules are that the park is closed at 4pm, so you don't have anymore chance to find the White-browed Owl or the Red Owl by night in Mantadia, and the Special Reserve where the Pollen's Vanga was possible is closed to tourists. So the night walks are only along the road among the cars, wich hopefully are not too many. On the road to Mantadia a cobalt and nickel mine is under installation, some workers are settling around with their families, all this is not reassuring for the future of the area.
Our first guide was Florent, 100000ar, the second was Maurice for the 2 last days, same price, but better and very interesting. He called the Long-eared Owl along the road at dusk, a great sighting; he found the Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, Nutatch Vanga, Dark Newtonia; it is important to call him in advance : 034 13 479 36 or 033 02 923 53.
Drizzle the first day, sunny the 3 following days.
Maurice told us that the marshes where the Painted Snipes where seen had turned into rice paddies, we asked for the Slender-billed Flufftail at the Torotorofotsy marsh, he said that it was not seen anymore.
Birds seen (67) : Mad. Little Grebe, Purple Heron, Red-billed Teal, Meller's Duck (in flight from the Eulophellia Lodge), Mad. Harrier-Hawk, Mad. Buzzard, Mad. Partridge (track going to the Lodge), Mad. Rail, Mad. Flufftail, Mad. Blue Pigeon, Mad. Green Pigeon, Mad. Turtle Dove, Greater and Lesser Vasa Parrot, Mad. Coucal, Mad. Lesser Cuckoo, Blue Coua, Mad. Long-eared Owl, Collared Nightjar, Mad. Spinetailed Swift, African Palm Swift, Brown-throated Sand Martin, Mad. Pygmy Kingfisher, Mad. Bee-eater, Broad-billed Roller, Mad. Cuckoo-Roller, Scaly, Pitta-like and Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, Velvet and Common Sunbird-Asity, Mad. Bulbul, Grey-crowne, Long-billed and Spectacled Greenbul, White-throated Oxylabes, Crossley's Babbler, Mad. Magpie-Robin, Forest Rock-Thrush, Common Stonechat, Mad. Wagtail, Mad. Paradise-Flycatcher, Ward's Flycatcher, Common and Dark Newtonia, Mad. Cisticola, Mad. Brush-Warbler, Stripe-throated, Green and Wedge-tailed Jery, Rand's and Cryptic Warbler, Mad. White-Eye, Mad. Green and Souimanga Sunbird, Nuthatch Vanga, Chabert's, Mad. Blue, Rufous, Red-tailed, Hook-billed, Tylas Vanga, Mad. Cuckoo Shrike, Mad. Starling, Common Mynah, Crested Drongo, Forest Fody, Nelicourvi Weaver, Mad. Mannikin.
KIRINDY MITAE NP (MANAHY) 11th Nov
We flew from Antananarivo. We read that the Bernier's Teal that we had missed in Majunga could be on the lake Bedo 10km north of Kirindy Reserve in Morondava area; we enquired about it at the Durrell Organisation office in Morondava (adjacent to ANGAP and FANAMBY), but we heard that the lake was actually dry. At the ANGAP office, they said that they were numerous on the salted lakes at Manahy, wich is at the entrance of Kirindy Mitae NP (35km south of Belo sur mer). They said that it was possible to join Manahy with a 4x4, and that a person working for ANGAP would be there to help us; we booked a car through our hotel (Zoom, 24000ar, no mosquito nest) for 2 days at 250000ar/day,(100€) fuel inc.
We left at 6:30am for a 5 hours drive through dry forest and salted areas; during the drive we saw a Madagascar Harrier and Giant Couas, and the last 1h30 was difficult on a narrow track that was not maintained, and the driver was scared to scratch the car; When we arrived at Manahy village, there was nothing like a park entrance, and nobody from the ANGAP. Our driver Jacques talk with the chief and explained that we wanted to see the birds on the lake; a young man said that he would take us there, it was a short drive to join a first lake; we walked for a while in the heath, we saw the 2 species of flamingos, Red-billed Teals, Red-knobbed Coots, White-faced Ducks, Great and Dimorphic Egrets, Grey and Humblot's Herons, but no Teals; we had a walked to a second lake, and on the muddy part we saw 4 Bernier's Teals; we regretted our scope as we couldn't identifie the birds far away.
We wanted to camp close to the lake but as it is sacred we were not allowed to do it; we camped not very far from the village, along a small salted river filled by the tide; all this area is a small paradise, the lakes and the river are separated from the sea by a beautiful arborated bar of high dunes; on the mud flats along the river we saw Common Ringed, Madagascar, White-fronted and Three-banded Plovers, 11 Madagascar Sandgrouses landed, a pair of Bernier's Teal were in the evening at 30m from our tent, at dusk we saw Madagascar Nightjar and a colony of Madagascar Flying Foxes came in a tree facing us.
In early morning we went to the lake again, but saw the same species; we saw at least 14 Bernier's Teals, but there should have much more. It is a very nice Teal, and not very shy. At 9am we left and drove back to Morondava. We gave 10000ar to the guide, we had nothing to pay for the tent.
KIRINDY FOREST RESERVE 13, 14, 15/11
The next plane for Tulear was the next monday 17, so we had a few days and decided to camp for 3 nights in the reserve, having only 1 new bird to see : the White-browed Owl, but several mammals to find; we paid 120000ar for a taxi to take us there, around 2 hours drive; from the main « tarred road » we stopped at a marsh on the left, 200m after a bridge, and saw Painted Snipes, a few Hottentot Teals, Mad. Squacco Herons; further on the track before the Allée des Baobabs, a zone of water covered with water lillies gave about 30 Pygmy geese, Purple Heron, Common Gallinule and Mad. Jacanas. Sadly the children were hunting with catapultes and one had a Sakalava Weaver, still alive but he had cut the wings, and a man came with a Hamerkop caught for lunch.
All the bungalows were full with researchers. The White-browed Owl was common, several heard by night even in the campsite, and responsive to tape; a pair of Giant Couas was building its nest above our tent. We heard several Torotoroka Scops-Owl; it was very dry and hot. We saw several White-breasted Mesite with great pleasure, having only seen them in september at Ankarafantsika NP. Several Vangas, Coquerel's Coua, Mad. Buttonquail, Mad. Sparrowhawk... Our guide was Christian, not excellent but not bad, with him we went to 3 night walks; we missed the Coquerel's Giant Dwarf Lemur and the Giant jumping Rat too. The Fosa was seen in the campsite and at the rubbish hole, and another in the forest at the remnant water hole in the river. Other mammals seen : Red-fronted Brown Lemur, Verreaux's Sifaka, Madame Berthe's Mouse lemur, Grey Mouse Lemur, Pale Fork-marked Dwarf Lemur, Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur, Red-tailed Sportive Lemur, Narrow-striped Mongoose, Western Big Footed Mouse, plus several lizards, one chameleon, too dry for the snakes and the frogs.
AROUND TULEAR - 17th to 23rd Nov - MANGILY
We flew by plane. From Tulear airport we sahred a 4x4 with 2 persons for 80000ar to go to Mangily. We passed some nice marshy areas and lakes, where we saw our first Dabchicks of the trip. At Mangily, there are plenty of hotel in the left-hand side streets, and the spiny forest is just some meters after the village on the main road. We chose the Mora Mora with bungalows with shared facilities at 20000ar in a very nice place. There is competition between the Reniala nature reserve, the Mossa reserve, and the Chez le Za reserve. The entrance and office are at the same place; we chose to go to Mossa Reserve, with the guides Jean-Marie and Gila; the price is 20000ar per person; they were waiting for us at 5am the next morning, and we quickly saw the Running and Green-capped Couas, Archbold Newtonia, Thamnornis Warbler, Subdesert Brush-Warbler, Long-tailed Ground-Roller and Lafresnaye's Vanga; but not the Subdesert Mesite. Jean-Marie proposed us to come back for free in the afternoon to try again, but as we had plenty of time, we prefered to come back the next morning when it is fresh and nicer, we wanted to see all the birds again anyway. That's what we did, we could see the birds again and they found the Mesite, that they tracked until the bird flushes in a tree and stays there as long as it is scared; we didn't approve this very much, but the guides seemed do happy of their success after their long research that it was difficult to say anything.
Our friends came 2 weeks before us and saw all the birds in the Reniala reserve with Dabe and Relatra, so the 2 places are good.
Jean-Marie organised to rent a 4x4 for the next day to go to La Table in search of Red-Shouldered Vanga and Verreaux's Coua for 100000ar, plus 25000ar per person for his guiding.
Birds seen : Mad. Harrier-Hawk (at nest), Banded and Mad. Kestrel, Subdesert Mesite, Namaqua Dove, Mad. Turtle Dove, Grey-headed Lovebird, Lesser Vasa Parrot, Mad. Coucal, Mad. Lesser Cuckoo, Green-capped, Running and Crested Coua, African Palm Swift, Mad. bee-eater, Long-tailed Ground-Roller, Mad. Bulbul, Mad. Magpie Robin, Mad. Hoopoe, Mad. Paradise Flycatcher, Common and Archbold's Newtonia, Thamnornis Warbler, Subdesert Brush-Warbler, Common and Stripe-throated Jery, Souimanga Sunbird, Chabert's, Sickle-billed, Hook-billed and Lafresnaye's Vanga, Mad. Cuckoo Shrike, Common Mynah, Crested Drongo, Pied Crow, Mad. Fody, Sakalava Weaver.
LA TABLE
Jean-Marie was supposed to take us at Hotel Mora Mora at 4:30 with a 4x4 but nobody came; after a quick walk to the Mossa reserve, we met Mossa and he called Jean-Marie, it is supposed to be a problem with the car; back at the hotel we waited for them until 5:30, Mossa was with Jean-Marie and Gila. He was very distant and didn't speak to us (probably lunatic), but we think that he came because it was late and that he wanted to make sure that we would see the birds. The car was a minivan and we got stuck on the sandy road 2 times, so we arrived on the site at 7:3Oam.
In fact despite all the reports we had read we didn't understand exactly where the site was (Hofland's report had the best description); it is not exactly at La Table, and it is easy to find, and we think that the guide is not necessary to find the Verreaux's Coua and the Red-shouldered Vanga (but you need the tape). Just take the RN7, passed the airport and follow the tarred road for a few km until the milestone 51km (and 18km on the other side), there is a big green concrete sign on the right « OPCI-OHEMIHA. We parked here at the beginning of a large track, there is a small house with a guard on the right. We walked a short distance on this track with the guides, quickly heard a Verreaux's Coua; it was not far and we think that we should have seen it with a slow approach, but the 3 guides had a reaction of hunters, running in the bushes to track the bird towards us and talking loudly, and it flew away completly scared. We went a little bit further on the track and took some trails on the left (the bushes are being cut by the people of Tulear, the area is actually unprotected), and they whistled the Red-shouldered Vanga, who responded after 10 minutes, we had a very nice and long sight of a pair, but once again it couldn't be just quiet, they were noisy and completly excited, going in the bushes and pushing the birds; we think that they do this because they are used to be with birding groups and that all the birders (sometimes 15 persons) have to see the bird...
Back to the car, they left us at the Hotel Chez Alain in Tulear, we paid the taxi 100000ar and the guide 25000ar/pers, and Mossa didn't even had a look at us, and was occupied with a phone call... hopefully Jean-Marie was very pleasant!
HOTEL LA MANGROVE – ANAKAO – NOSY VE - ARBORETUM
From Tulear where we spent a night Chez Alain, 20000ar the bungalow, we paid a taxi 35000ar/14€ until the Hotel La Mangrove; some taxi drivers are reluctant to go there because there have been some attacks, but we had no problem; the bungalow was 35000ar, in a nice setting along the sea fringed by the mangrove, and with the thorny slopes of the mountains on the other side; in fact there is no obligation to come there as it is possible to book a boat to Anakao and Nosy Ve from Tulear, but we had time and the place was nice; on the mudflats we saw many Whimbrels and Common Greenshanks, Dimorphic Egret and Striated Herons, White-throated Rails in the mangrove, Verreaux's Couas where heard in thorny bushes but didn't come when we taped them and it was too dense to find them. We taped the Red-shouldered Vanga without success. In the garden of the hotel there was a pair of Madagascar Buttonquails, Black Kite, Mad. Nightjar, Mad. Kingfisher, Mad. Paradise Flycatcher, Mad. Bulbul, Mad. Magpie Robin and Mad. Fody..
At the hotel they called a boat coming from Tulear the next morning to take us to Anakao and Nosy Ve island, 80000ar/pers (32€) the round trip. Following the tide the boat was here at 5:30, after the strong wind of the preceding days it was a very pleasant weather; we charged other tourists in another village along the coast, and headed to Anakao, landing in front of the Hotel Palace where we saw a Littoral Rock-Thrush on the roof, and later in the afternoon behind the hotel. The tickets for Nosy Ve have to be bought here, at the ANGAP office, 2000ar/pers.
Then we landed on the nice island of Nosy Ve, where we saw many Red-tailed Tropicbirds in flight, and then nesting under the bushes with youngs. We had a walked all around the island, at the northern end we saw many terns on a sand bank, but we had no scope, so we could only recognize Lesser and Greater Crested Terns seen in flight from the boat, but nothing more to identify, and we were disappointed to miss the Crab Plovers, even if they were not lifers for us; it should have been interesting to get on the island with a canoe from Anakao, allowing us to get closer to the sand bank, but we couldn't know that before; other birds seen where Dimorphic Egret, Grey Heron, Ruddy Turnstone, White-fronted Plover, Grey Plover, Mad. Cisticola.
Back to Anakao where we had lunch, then back to Hotel La Mangrove, with a very good sighting of a Wilson's Storm Petrel.
The next day after a great seafood buffet at the hotel (every sunday), the taxi came to pick us up for 40000ar to drive us until the Arboretum where we had booked a nice bungalow for 1 night (30000ar/12€). The guided walk takes only 45 to 60mn, but it was interesting and we had a very good sight of the Green-capped Coua and Mad. Buttonquail with youngs. In the morning 5 Mad. Sandgrouses flew over the area.
ZOMBITSE NATIONAL PARC - 25th Nov
We booked a taxi taking us at the arboretum at 8:30am to Isalo NP, via Zombitse for 260000ar, bad bargaining, probably 200000ar was the price; (our first idea was to camp at Zombitse, but the driver never wanted as all this area from Sakahara to Tulear is dangerous); we were at Zombitse at 11am, and Flaubert and a young called Lucien guided us for 2 hours in the forest; it had rained the day before, it was cloudy and we could hear the storm far away, so it wasn't hot. The walk was very productive, we quickly saw the Appert's Greenbul, but others too like Giant Coua, White-browed Owl, many Mad. Cuckoo Rollers, Long-billed Greenbul, Mad. Paradise Flycatcher... and we saw the Hubbard's Sportive Lemur in a hole.
After the walk we went to the office and paid 10000ar for the park entrance, Flaubert said that he had not to be paid, but asked some money for the other guide; as we were going to give something like 20000ar, he asked 70000ar! Very annoyed we explained that they should stop to rip off the tourists as they wouldn't come in this country anymore, and we gave 30000ar, but we think that they don't care at all and will try again with the next birder;
After that we spent the night in Ranohira closed to ISALO NP where we were deprived again of our money as we paid 25000ar/pers for the entrance, 32000ar for the guide (the walk was announced of 4 hours but it was 2), and the guide asked 30000ar for the taxi to take us to the entrance which was only at 2 km, a real shame; the site is beautiful, and we saw several Forest Rock-Thrush previously named Benson's, now lumped, but the colours of this one is different anyway with the grey replacing the blue colour;
Between Ambositra and Antsirabe we saw a Sacred Ibis in the rice fields, wich is outside its range.
With the beginning of the heavy rains since the 20th of november, the country has now changed and all the fields are green; but this marks the end of our trip. We spent our 3 last days at Lake Itasy, west of Antananarivo, where a friend of us lives. We saw several birds here, but only 1 new for the trip : the African Marsh Owl, flushed by 5 children hunting with catapultes; hopefully they missed the Owl.
We tried to get some informations about the reserve of Anjozorobe, 2 hours north of Tana, but couldn't have enough certitude about the place where the Slender-billed Flufftail was seen. The Tropical Birding tour seems to see the bird near the Mananara Camp, but at the end of the trip it was just too expensive for us, so we didn't try. We had the confirmation after our return back to France that the bird is closed to Mananara Camp in the last Birdquest trip report.
Total: 197 species.
MADAGASCAR LITTLE GREBE tachybaptus rufolavatus
On Green Lake at Montagne d'Ambre NP; on lake at Vohipara (Ranomafana NP); at Hotel Eulophelia lodge Andasibe.
DABCHICK (LITTLE GREBE) tachybaptus ruficollis
Seen a big number on a roadside lake driving from Tulear north to Mangily.
WILSON'S STORM PETREL oceanites oceanicus
From the boat coming back from Anakao to Hotel La Mangrove.
RED-TAILED TROPICBIRD phaeton rubricauda
On Nosy Ve island.
REED CORMORANT phalacrocorax africanus
Around Mitsinjo, Masoala NP, Manahy
AFRICAN DARTER anhinga rufa
Ankarafantsika NP, around Mitsinjo, Montagne d'Ambre NP.
MADAGASCAR SQUACCO HERON ardeola idae
River from Mitsinjo to Lake Kinkony, and in a marsh near Morondava.
COMMON SQUACCO HERON ardeola ralloides
Ankarafantsika NP, Manahy, and in rice paddies in many places.
LITTLE BITTERN ixobrychus minutus
Lake Kinkony.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON nycticorax nycticorax
Ankarafantsika NP, Lake Kinkony.
GREEN-BACKED (STRIATED) HERON butorides striatus
Ankarafantsika NP, river at Mitsinjo, Marojejy NP, Manahy, Nosy Ve island.
GREAT WHITE EGRET casmerodius albus
Ankarafantsika NP, Ranomafana NP, Manahy...
CATTLE EGRET bulbucus ibis
common.
BLACK EGRET egretta ardesiaca
Ankarafantsika NP, Lake Kinkony.
DIMORPHIC EGRET egretta dimorpha
Ankarafantsika NP, Manahy, Nosy Ve...
PURPLE HERON ardea purpurea
Ankarafantsika NP, Lake Kinkony, Vohipara, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
GREY HERON ardea cinerea
Lake Kinkony, Manahy, Nosy Ve.
HUMBLOT'S HERON ardea humbloti
Ankarafantsika NP, Lake Kinkony, Manahy.
HAMERKOP scopus umbretta
In several places.
MADAGASCAR CRESTED IBIS lophotibis cristata
Ankarafantsika NP, Masoala NP.
MADAGASCAR SACRED IBIS threskiornis bernieri
Along the river from Mitsinjo to Lake Kinkony, Laka Kinkony, Ampitsopitsoka, Betsiboka Delta, 1 in a rice field between Ambositra and Antsirabe.
GLOSSY IBIS plegadis falcinellus
Ankarafantsika NP, Manahy.
AFRICAN SPOONBILL plataela alba
Lake Kinkony.
YELLOW-BILLED STORK mycteria ibis
Ankarafantsika NP, river at Mitsinjo, Manahy.
AFRICAN OPENBILL STORK anastomus lamelligerus
Between Morondava and Kirindy forest.
GREATER FLAMINGO phoenicopterus ruber
Manahy.
LESSER FLAMINGO phoenicopterus minor
Manahy.
BERNIER'S TEAL anas bernieri
Manahy.
RED-BILLED TEAL anas erythroryncha
Lake Alarobia, Eulophellia lodge Andasibe, Manahy, Anja reserve south of Fianarantsoa.
HOTTENTOT TEAL anas hottentota
Morondava.
MELLER'S DUCK anas melleri
Vohipara, in flight at dusk at Eulophellia Lodge at Andasibe.
WHITE-FACED DUCK dendrocygna viduata
Ankarafantsika NP, river at Mitsinjo, Lake Alarobia, Betsiboka Delta, Manahy.
KNOB-BILLED DUCK sarkidiornis melanotos
Lake Alarobia, Lake Kinkony, Ankarafantsika NP.
PYGMY GOOSE nettapus auritus
Between Morondava and Kirindy forest reserve.
MADAGASCAR FISH-EAGLE haliaeetus vociferoides
Ankarafantsika NP.
MADAGASCAR SERPENT EAGLE eutriorchis astur
Masoala NP.
HENST'S GOSHAWK accipiter henstii
Marojejy NP, Ranomafana NP.
MADAGASCAR HARRIER-HAWK polyboroides radiatus
Ankarafantsika NP, river at Mitsinjo, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Manahy, Mangily (at nest).
MADAGASCAR BUZZARD buteo brachypterus
Ankarafantsika NP, Mitsinjo, Marojejy NP, Vohipara (at nest with chick), Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR CUCKOO HAWK aviceda madagascariensis
Masoala NP.
MADAGASCAR HARRIER circus microsceles
Road towards Manahy.
BLACK KITE milvus migrans
Hotel La Mangrove Tulear
YELLOW-BILLED KITE milvus aegyptius
Common.
BANDED KESTREL falco zoniventris
Ankarafantsika NP, Mangily.
MADAGASCAR SPARROWHAWK accipiter madagascariensis
Masoala NP, Zombitse NP.
FRANCE'S SPARROWHAWK accipiter francesiae
Ankarafantsika NP, Masoala NP, Manahy.
MADAGASCAR KESTREL accipiter newtoni
Common everywhere, seen the dark (rufous) phase in Ankarafantsika NP.
ELEONORA'S FALCON falco eleonorae
Ankarafantsika NP.
MADAGASCAR PARTRIDGE margaroperdix madagascariensis
Road of Eulophellia lodge at Andasibe.
HELMETED GUINEAFOWL numida meleagris
Manahy.
MADAGASCAR WOOD-RAIL canirallus kioloides
Masoala NP with a chick.
BROWN MESITE mesitornis unicolor
Ranomafana NP.
WHITE-BREASTED MESITE mesitornis variegata
Ankarafantsika NP, Kirindi forest reserve.
SUBDESERT MESITE monias benschi
Mangily.
MADAGASCAR BUTTONQUAIL turnix nigricollis
Ankarafantsika NP, Kirindy forest reserve, Hotel La Mangrove.
WHITE-THROATED RAIL dryolimnas cuvieri
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Manahy, Hotel La Mangrove.
MADAGASCAR RAIL rallus madagascariensis
Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR FLUFFTAIL sarothrura insularis
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
SAKALAVA RAIL amaurornis olivieri
Lake Kinkony.
LESSER GALLINULE porphyrula alleni
Lake Kinkony.
COMMON MOORHEN gallinula chloropus
Ankarafantsika NP, road to Manahy.
RED-KNOBBED COOT fulica cristata
Manahy.
GREATER PAINTED SNIPE rostratula benghalensis
Ranomafana NP .
MADAGASCAR SNIPE gallinago macrodactyla
Ranomafana NP, Lake Itasy.
MADAGASCAR JACANA actophilornis albinicucha
Ankarafantsika NP, between Morondava and Kirindy forest reserve.
MADAGASCAR PRATINCOLE glareola ocularis
River from Mitsinjo to Lake Kinkony.
RUDDY TURNSTONE arenaria interpres
Majunga, Masoala NP, Nosy Ve.
BLACK-WINGED STILT himantopus himantopus
Ankarafantsika NP, river from Mitsinjo to Lake Kinkony, Manahy.
GREY PLOVER pluvialis squatarola
Betsiboka delta, Nosy Ve.
COMMON RINGED PLOVER charadrius hiaticula
Manahy.
MADAGASCAR PLOVER charadrius thoracicus
River from Namakia to Ampitsopitsoka, Manahy.
KITTLITZ'S PLOVER charadrius pecuarius
Ankarafantsika NP.
WHITE-FRONTED PLOVER charadrius marginatus
River from Mitsinjo to Lake Kinkony, Manahy, Nosy Ve.
THREE-BANDED PLOVER charadrius tricollaris
Ankarafantsika NP, Ranomafana NP, Manahy.
WHIMBREL numenius phaeopus
Manahy, Nosy Ve.
COMMON GREENSHANK tringa nebularia
River from Mitsinjo to Lake Kinkony, Manahy.
COMMON SANDPIPER actitis hypoleucos
Ankarafantsika NP, river from Mitsinjo to Lake Kinkony, Ranomafana NP, Manahy.
SANDERLING calidris alba
Nosy Ve.
CURLEW SANDPIPER calidris ferruginea
Manahy.
GREY-HEADED GULL larus cirrocephalus
Identified by our friends in Antananarivo above a big lake in town.
CASPIAN TERN hydroprogne caspia
Betsiboka delta, Manahy.
WHISKERED TERN chlidonias hybridus
Lake Kinkony.
SWIFT (GREATER CRESTED) TERN sterna bergii
Masoala NP, Nosy Ve.
LESSER CRESTED TERN sterna bengalensis
Nosy Ve.
MADAGASCAR SANDGROUSE pterocles personatus
Manahy, in flight at the arboretum of Tulear.
FERAL PIGEON columba livia
NAMAQUA DOVE oena capensis
Ankarafantsika NP, around Mitsinjo, Manahy, Mangily, Nosy Ve.
MADAGASCAR BLUE PIGEON alectroenas madagascariensis
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Marojejy NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR GREEN PIGEON treron australis
Ankarafantsika NP, along river at Mitsinjo, Marojejy NP, Ranomafana NP, Montagne d'Ambre NP, Manahy.
MADAGASCAR TURTLE DOVE streptopelia picturata
Ankarafantsika NP, Montagne d'Ambre NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Manahy.
GREY-HEADED LOVEBIRD agapornis cana
Ankarafantsika NP, Mitsinjo river, Manahy, Mangily, Zombitse NP.
GREATER VASA PARROT coracopsis vasa
Ankarafantsika NP, Mitsinjo river, Montagne d'Ambre NP, Maloala NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Manahy.
LESSER VASA PARROT coracopsis nigra
Ankarafantsika NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Mangily, Zombitse NP.
MADAGASCAR COUCAL centropus toulou
Common
MADAGASCAR LESSER CUCKOO cuculus rochii
Common.
GREEN-CAPPED COUA coua olivaceiceps
Mangily, Arboretum of Tulear.
RED-CAPPED COUA coua ruficeps
Ankarafantsika NP.
RUNNING COUA coua cursor
Mangily.
GIANT COUA coua gigas
Road to Manahy, Kirindy forest reserve, Zombitse.
COQUEREL'S COUA coua coquereli
Ankarafantsika NP.
RED-BREASTED COUA coua serriana
Marojejy NP, Masoala NP.
RED-FRONTED COUA coua reynaudii
Marojejy NP, Ranomafana NP.
BLUE COUA coua caerula
Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
CRESTED COUA coua cristata
Ankarafantsika NP, Masoala NP, Manahy.
VERREAUX'S COUA coua verreauxi
La Table near Tulear, heard near Hotel La Mangrove.
MADAGASCAR LONG-EARED OWL asio madagascariensis
Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
BARN OWL tyto alba
Namakia.
WHITE-BROWED OWL ninox superciliaris
Kirindy forest reserve, Zombitse NP.
AFRICAN MARSH OWL asio capensis
Lac Itasy.
RAINFOREST SCOPS-OWL otus rutilus
Masoala NP, heard in Marojejy NP and Montagne d'Ambre NP.
TOROTOROKA SCOPS-OWL otus madagascariensis
Ankarafantsika NP, heard in Kirindy forest reserve.
COLLARED NIGHTJAR caprimulgus enarratus
Masoala NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR NIGHTJAR caprimulgus madagascariensis
Ankarafantsika NP, Antananarivo.
ALPINE SWIFT apus melba
Marojejy NP, Isalo NP.
MADAGASCAR BLACK SWIFT apus balstoni
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
LITTLE SWIFT apus affinis
Montagne d'Ambre NP.
MADAGASCAR SPINE-TAILED SWIFT zoonavena grandidieri
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Masoala NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
AFRICAN PALM-SWIFT cypsiurus parvus
Ankarafantsika NP, Lake Kinkony, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Mangily.
BROWN-THROATED SAND MARTIN riparia paludicola
Eulophellia Lodge at Andasibe.
MASCARENE MARTIN phedina borbonica
Ankarafantsika NP (nesting), Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR KINGFISHER corythornis vintsoides
Ankarafantsika NP, Lake Kinkony, Montagne d'Ambre NP, Ranomafana NP, Manahy, Nosy Ve, Lake Itasy.
MADAGASCAR PYGMY KINGFISHER ispidina madagascariensis
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR BEE-EATER merops superciliosus
Common.
BROAD-BILLED ROLLER eurystomus glaucurus
Masoala NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Manahy, Mangily.
MADAGASCAR CUCKOO-ROLLER leptosomus discolor
Common, and very common at Zombitse NP.
SCALY GROUND-ROLLER brachypteracias squamiger
Marojejy NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP (nesting).
SHORT-LEGGED GROUND-ROLLER brachypteracias leptosomus
Marojejy NP, Masoala NP.
PITTA-LIKE GROUND-ROLLER atelornis pittoides
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
RUFOUS-HEADED GROUND-ROLLER atelornis crossleyi
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
LONG-TAILED GROUND-ROLLER uratelornis chimaera
Mangily.
VELVET ASITY philepitta castanea
Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
SCHLEGEL'S ASITY philepitta schlegeli
Ankarafantsika NP.
COMMON SUNBIRD-ASITY neodrepanis coruscans
Marojejy NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
YELLOW-BELLIED SUNBIRD-ASITY neodrepanis hypoxantha
Ranomafana NP (Vohipara).
MADAGASCAR BULBUL hypsipetes madagascariensis
Common throughout.
APPERT'S GREENBUL berniera apperti
Zombitse NP.
GREY-CROWNED GREENBUL berniera cinereiceps
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
DUSKY GREENBUL berniera tenebrosa
Masoala NP.
LONG-BILLED GREENBUL berniera madagascariensis
Ankarafantsika NP, Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Zombitse NP.
YELLOW-BROWED OXYLABES crossleyia xanthrophrys
Ranomafana NP, not very easy to see.
SPECTACLED GREENBUL berniera zosterops
Montagne d'Ambre NP (sp zosterops fulvescens), Masoala NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
WHITE-THROATED OXYLABES oxylabes madagascariensis
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
CROSSLEY'S BABBLER mystacornis crossleyi
Masoala NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR MAGPIE ROBIN copsychus albospecularis
Common throughout.
MADAGASCAR HOOPOE upupa marginata
Ankarafantsika NP, Manahy, Mangily, Zombitse NP.
AMBER MOUNTAIN ROCK-THRUSH monticola erythronotus
Montagne d'Ambre NP.
FOREST ROCK-THRUSH monticola sharpei
Marojejy NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Isalo NP.
LITTORAL ROCK-THRUSH monticola imerinus
Anakao.
COMMON STONECHAT saxicola torquata
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR WAGTAIL motacilla flaviventris
Common in many places.
MADAGASCAR PARADISE FLYCATCHER terpsihone mutata
Common throughout.
WARD'S FLYCATCHER pseudobias wardi
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
COMMON NEWTONIA newtonia brunneicauda
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Ankarafantsika NP, Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP (nesting) Manahy, Mangily, Zombitse NP.
DARK NEWTONIA newtonia amphichroa
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
ARCHBOLD'S NEWTONIA newtonia archboldi
Mangily.
RED-TAILED NEWTONIA newtonia fanovanae
Marojejy NP.
MADAGASCAR CISTICOLA cisticola cherina
Ankarafantsika NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Manahy, Nosy Ve, Lake Itasy.
MADAGASCAR LARK mirafra hova
Ankarafantsika NP, Ranomafana NP, Manahy, Lake Itasy.
MADAGASCAR SWAMP WARBLER acrocephalus newtoni
Ankarafantsika NP, Lake Kinkony, Manahy.
MADAGASCAR BRUSH WARBLER nesillas typica
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
THAMNORNIS WARBLER thamnornis chloropetoides
Mangily.
SUBDESERT BRUSH WARBLER nesillas lantzii
Mangily.
GREY EMUTAIL amphilais seebohmi
Ranomafana NP (Vohipara).
BROWN EMUTAIL dromaeocercus brunneus
Ranomafana NP (Vohipara).
COMMON JERY neomixis tenella
Ankarafantsika NP, Masoala NP, Manahy, Mangily, Zombitse NP.
STRIPE-THROATED JERY neomixis striatigula
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Manahy, Mangily.
GREEN JERY neomixis viridis
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
WEDGE-TAILED JERY hartertula flavoviridis
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
RAND'S WARBLER randia pseudozosterops
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
CRYPTIC WARBLER cryptosylvicola randrianasoloi
Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR WHITE-EYE zosterops maderaspatanus
Common throuthout.
MADAGASCAR GREEN SUNBIRD nectarinia notata
Ankarafantsika NP, Montagne d'Ambre NP, Marojejy NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Manahy.
SOUIMANGA SUNBIRD nectarinia souimanga
Very common.
NUTCHATCH VANGA hypositta corallirostris
Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
WHITE-HEADED VANGA leptopterus viridis
Ankarafantsika NP, Mitsinjo river, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Manahy.
CHABERT'S VANGA leptopterus chabert
Ankarafantsika NP, Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Mangily.
MADAGASCAR BLUE VANGA cyanolanius madagascarinus
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana N, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
HELMET VANGA euryceros prevostii
Marojejy NP, Masoala NP (at nest).
SICKLE-BILLED VANGA falculea palliata
Ankarafantsika NP, Mitsinjo river, Mahany, Mangily.
RUFOUS VANGA schetba rufa
Ankarafantsika NP, Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Manahy.
RED-SHOULDERED VANGA calicalicus rufocarpalis
La Table near Tulear.
RED-TAILED VANGA caalicalicus madagascariensis
Montagne d'Ambre NP, Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Zombitse NP.
LAFRESNAYE'S VANGA xenopirostris xenopirostris
Mangily.
HOOK-BILLED VANGA vanga curvirostris
River at Namakia, Montagne d’Ambre NP, Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Mangily.
POLLEN’S VANGA xenopirostris polleni
Ranomafana NP.
VAN DAM’S VANGA xenopirostris damii
Ankarafantsika NP.
TYLAS tylas eduardi
Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
MADAGASCAR CUCKOO SHRIKE coracina cinerea
Common throughout.
MADAGASCAR STARLING hartlaubius auratus
Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
COMMON MYNAH acridotheres tristis
Common.
CRESTED DRONGO dicrurus forficatus
Common throughout.
PIED CROW corvus albus
Common.
MADAGASCAR FODY foudia madagascariensis
Common thoughout.
FOREST FODY foudia omissa
Marojejy NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.
SAKALAVA WEAVER ploceus sakalava
Ankarafantsika NP, Manahy, Mangily.
NELICOURVI WEAVER ploceus nelicourvi
Montagne d’Ambre NP, Marojejy NP, Masoala NP ? Andasibe-Mantadia NP, Ranomafana NP.
MADAGASCAR MANNIKIN lonchura nana
Around Mitsinjo, Montagne d’Ambre NP, Marojejy NP, Masoala NP, Ranomafana NP, Andasibe-Mantadia NP.