The Yasuni Biosphere Reserve sits at the intersection of the Andes, the Equator, and the western Amazon region, an ecological bull’s-eye where extremely rich communities of plants, amphibians, birds, and mammals in South America converge. A single hectare of Yasuni forest contains 100,000 insect species, more varieties than recorded anywhere else.
Within a 2-square-mile area, researchers have identified 200 species of mammals, including 10 of primates, 100 of bats and big cats like jaguars and pumas. Scientists have determined that on average 655 tree species spring from every hectare of the Yasuní, more than are native to the continental United States and Canada combined. And our birding destination: Shiripuno Lodge is located right in the middle of all this biological richness. Visitors are limited to only 500 people per year to insure that the area is maintained in pristine condition. Shiripuno Lodge is not your typical tourist destination; the forest there is the real deal.
Each year about 12,000 to 15,000 tourists begin their trip to the jungle by flying into Coca airport. Most of these tourists are destined for the high-volume lodges, which have been built along the majestic Napo River. We also begin our trips in Coca, but after that, all similarity with other tours ends. From Coca, we head south into the heart of the Waorani territories, leaving the degraded forests of the Napo behind. Once we leave town, we won't be returning until the end of the trip. If we forget something, we'll just have to live without it.
We drive south on Auca Road for about 120 km until we reach the Shiripuno River. The road was originally built for oil extraction, but settlers soon followed to take advantage of the easy access it provided to new land. Farms and ranches now line both sides of the road, with a couple of small boom towns thrown in for good measure--all of very recent origin. Given the limitations of the soil, it isn't surprising that local agriculture fairs poorly, which makes the panorama of activity here is very dynamic. Auca Road is a microcosm of what is happening to the Amazon wilderness on a wider scale. First, a road built by the government or large corporation, and then people quickly use the new road to raze the forest and extract natural resources at a furious pace. The signs of destruction end at the banks of the Shiripuno River.
The forest downstream is largely unexplored. This is because the land is owned by the Waorani who have not always welcomed the outside world. For most of human history, very few people were allowed entry into this part of the Amazon. As a consequence, the range maps in The Birds of Ecuador show many question marks as to which birds are to be found in our area. Each year we learn new things about the birds to our forest.
Travel on the Shiripuno is by motorized canoe. piloted by skillful Waorani boatmen. This is the start of our adventure into the last pristine forest left in Ecuador. While the wildlife that we might see on any given trip is uncertain, there are a few things about each trip that we know for absolute certainty. Gone are the concrete of cities and roads; gone are the noise of radios and TVs; and gone are the distractions of cell phones and the internet. Here you are unreachable and completely off the grid. Normally we kept under the spell of human society, but the Yasuni brings a different reality. In the forest, we feel like a tiny grain of humanity in the midst of a mind boggling profusion of other species. The Amazonian Wilderness overpowers us, making us feel insignificant in the face of its dark depths and mysterious creatures.
Under normal conditions, the boat trip to the lodge takes about 4 hours. The Shiripuno is small river, generally no more than 50 meters wide. It makes its way through the surrounding hills in an intense series of hairpin turns, doubling back on itself over and over again, from one turn to the next barely making slow progress toward its ultimate journey, the Atlantic Ocean. The birding begins to pick up as the sun gets a little lower on the horizon. Flocks of Casqued Oropendolas rush in and out of the forest; they are nesting this time of the year. A White-throated Toucan perches in the dead branches of the canopy; a Magpie Tanager crosses in the front of the canoe. We find out the canoe driver doesn't stop for all species, and so try to identify birds with the canoe in motion. Later we understand why the driver doesn't stop: because he is aware that its better to arrive at the lodge while its still light.
Peaceable canoe ride, and as the sun begins to fade behind the Andes, the clouds start exchanging their stark whites for golden yellows, blood purples, neon reds, and electric oranges. The last rays of the sun light up the forest and passing flocks of Macaws.
Items you must have in your day backpack when you travel on the river:
• Reusable Water Bottle, Minimizing the containers we bring in, minimizes the trash we have to take out.
• Sun Protection. The higher the SPF the better.
• Hat. Protect yourself against the sun and rain.
• Quick Drying Clothing. Avoid sunburn. Wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts.
• Sun Glasses. Equatorial sunlight is intense.
• Wind breaker. A moving canoe can be quite chilly at times.
• Rain gear or poncho, Remember that the canoe is not covered and that it can rain at anytime.
• Sandals or light shoes. Hiking boots can become really hot or hard to dry. Bring something that you can not only get muddy but that will also dry quickly.
We made it to our destination. The Shiripuno Lodge is a place to rest, to recover your energy, to focus your thoughts, and, of course, to swing in the hammocks! Its purpose is to free us from the necessities of life so that we can direct maximum attention on the forest, exploring the lodge's 30 km of trails in search of birds.
A few of our special birds include: Nocturnal Curassow, Salvin's Curassow, Wing-banded Antbird, Rufous Potoo, Collared Puffbird, Fiery Topaz, Yasuni Antwren, Black Bushbird, and Black-banded Owl. On most nights, the mythological Nocturnal Curassow can be heard from the cabins; the record so far is seven. But sometimes its not enough to just hear these strange birds calling in the night, sometimes we have to go out and find them. We listen carefully and make our decisions where to move. Slowly we make our way closer and closer to the calling bird. The unmistakable call of this creature has lend us to the base of large tree. Nocturnal Curassow likes to sit on bare, exposed-horizontal branches near the very top of the tree. Clear nights seem to work best. So now we have to find it; all flashlights are on and directed overhead! Everyone is craning their necks skyward and playing their flashlights back and forth, searching the highest limbs. And there it is, and everyone gathered around for a good long look. Perfect night.
Shiripuno Lodge isn't blessed with an observation tower, but we have adjusted for this by using our topography to the same advantage. The trails of the Shiripuno lead us to the canopy in a different way. Some of our trails are cut along the ridge lines of hill with a fairly large elevational gradient. So, what we did was cut observation windows so that birders could look out over the canopy at various points along the trail. In this way, its possible to see species of birds which specialize at different elevations within the canopy. Another way we explore the canopy is to drift downstream in a canoe early in the morning. In this way, its easy to see Blue and Yellow Macaws, Scarlet Macaws, Black-banded Woodcreeper, Spangled Cotinga, and Fiery Topaz.
But our goal today is to find, the Salvin's Curassow calling in the distance. We hear it, but can we find it in this amazing forest? We land the canoe and walk into the forest. There is no trail here. We concentrate on the source of the sound and soon find ourselves in a dense, dark area of the forest. There it is whistling again, and we adjust our position and search the trees until we spot it only 10 meters away. It is fanning it tail up and down, and we see the snow-white vent and its bright-orange bill. When we find a species like this, we are reminded why they are hunted by native people: they are a huge meal! One bird and the entire family can have a nice feast. Guans and Curassows are very sensitive to human disturbance and habitat loss; they only live where the hunting pressure is low and the forest is pristine.
We are privileged to be birding in the last Wilderness of the Ecuadorian Amazon. As a bird watcher, we can live without basic comforts for few days, In fact, the less amenities we bring with us, the less of an impact that we will have on the forest. Its time that we started taking better care of our precious wild lands. It's time for us to put the forest first.
Great Tinamou (Tinamus major) H
White-throated Tinamou (Tinamus guttatus) H
Cinereous Tinamou (Crypturellus cinereus)
Undulated Tinamou (Crypturellus undulates) H
Variegated Tinamou (Crypturellus variegates) H
Blue-winged Teal (Anas discors)
Rufescent Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum)
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
Striated Heron (Butorides striatus)
Green Ibis (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)
King Vulture (Sarcorhamphus papa)
Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes melambrotus)
Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)
Gray-headed Kite (Leptodon cayanensis)
Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus)
Double-toothed Kite (Harpagus bidentatus)
Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea)
Crake Hawk (Geranospiza caerulescens)
Riverside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris)
Black Caracara (Daptrius ater)
Red-throated Caracara (Ibycter americanus)
Lined Forest-Falcon (Micrastur gilvicollis)
Collared Forest-Falcon (Micrastur semitorquatus) H
Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans)
Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis)
Speckled Chachalaca (Ortalis guttata)
Spix’s Guan (Penelope jacquacu)
Common Piping-Guan (Pipile pipile)
Nocturnal Curassow (Nothocrax urumutum)
Salvin’s Curassow (Mitu salvini)
Marbled Wood-Quail (Odontophorus gujanensis) H
Chestnut-headed Crake (Anurolimnas castaneiceps) H
Gray-necked Wood-Rail (Aramides cajanea)
Sungrebe (Heliornis fulica)
Gray-winged Trumpeter (Psophia crepitans)
Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularia)
Plumbeous Pigeon (Columba plumbea)
Gray-fronted Dove (Leptotila rufaxilla)H
Blue-and-Yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna)
Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao)
Red-and-Green Macaw (Ara chloroptera) H
Chestnut-fronted Macaw (Ara severa)
Red-bellied Macaw (Orthopsittaca manilata)
Maroon-tailed Parakeet (Pyrrhura melanura)
Cobalt-winged Parakeet (Brotogeris cyanoptera)
Black-headed Parrot (Pionites melanocephala)
Orange-cheeked Parrot (Pionopsitta barrabandi)
Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus)
Yellow-crowned Amazon (Amazona ochrocephala)
Orange-winged Amazon (Amazona amazonica)
Mealy Amazon (Amazona farinosa)
Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana)
Black-bellied Cuckoo (Piaya melanogaster)
Greater Ani (Crotophaga major)
Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani)
Hoatzin (Opisthocomus hoazin)
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl (Otus watsonii) H
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium brasilianum) H
Crested Owl (Lophostrix cristata) H
Black-banded Owl (Strix huhula)
Great Potoo (Nyctibius grandis)
Common Potoo (Nyctibius griseus)
Rufous Potoo (Nyctibius bracteatus)
Pauraque (Nyctidromus albicollis)
White-collared Swift (Streptoprocne zonaris)
Short-tailed Swift (Chaetura brachyura)
Gray-rumped Swift (Chaetura cinereiventris)
Pale-rumped Swift (Chaetura egregia)
Neotropical Palm-Swift (Tachornis squamata)
Pale-tailed Barbthroat (Threnetes leucurus)
Great-billed Hermit (Phaethornis malaris)
White-bearded Hermit (Phaethornis hispidus)
Straight-billed Hermit (Phaethornis bourcieri)
Gray-breasted Sabrewing (Campylopterus largipennis)
White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora)
Fiery Topaz (Topaza pyra)
Amazonian White-tailed Trogon (Trogon viridis)
Black-throated Trogon (Trogon rufus)
Blue-crowned Trogon (Trogon curucui)
Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona)
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher (Chloroceryle inda)
Rufous Motmot (Baryphthengus martii) H
Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus momota) H
White-eared Jacamar (Galbalcyrhynchus leucotis)
Yellow-billed Jacamar (Galbula albirostris)
Purplish Jacamar (Galbula chalcothorax)
Great Jacamar (Jacamerops aurea) H
White-necked Puffbird (Notharchus macrorhynchos)
Collared Puffbird (Bucco capensis)
Brown Nunlet (Nonnula brunnea)
Black-fronted Nunbird (Monasa nigrifrons)
White-fronted Nunbird (Monasa morphoeus)
Swallow-winged Puffbird (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)
Gilded Barbet (Capito auratus)
Golden-collared Toucanet (Selenidera reinwardtii)
Chestnut-eared Araçari (Pteroglossus castanotis)
Many-banded Araçari (Pteroglossus pluricinctus)
Ivory-billed Araçari (Pteroglossus azara)
Lettered Araçari (Pteroglossus inscriptus)
Channel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus)
White-throated Toucan (Ramphastos tucanus)
White-throated Woodpecker (Piculus leucolaemus)
Chestnut Woodpecker (Celeus elegans)
Scale-breasted Woodpecker (Celeus grammicus)
Cream-colored Woodpecker (Celeus flavus)
Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus)
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker (Melanerpes cruentatus)
Red-stained Woodpecker (Veniliornis affinis)
Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos)
Red-necked Woodpecker (Campephilus rubricollis)
Eastern Woodhaunter (Hyloctistes subulatus)
Chestnut-winged Hookbill (Ancistrops strigilatus) H
Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner (Automolus infuscatus) H
Plain Xenops (Xenops minutus)
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper (Glyphorynchus spirurus)
Long-billed Woodcreeper (Nasica longirostris)
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper (Dendrexetastes rufigula)
Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes certhia)
Striped Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus obsoletus)
Ocellated Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus ocellatus)
Buff-throated Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus guttatus)
Red-billed Scythebill ( Campylorhamphus trochilirostris
Fasciated Antshrike (Cymbilaimus lineatus)
Great Antshrike (Taraba major)
Plain-winged Antshrike (Thamnophilus schistaceus)
Mouse-colored Antshrike (Thamnophilus murinus)
Spot-winged Antshrike (Pygiptila stellaris)
Dusky-throated Antshrike (Thamnomanes ardesiacus)
Cinereous Antshrike (Thamnomanes caesius)
Amazonian Streaked-Antwren (Myrmotherula multostriata)
Plain-throated Antwren (Myrmotherula hauxwelli)
Yasuni Antwren( Myrmotherula fjeldsaai)
Rufous-tailed Antwren (Myrmotherula erythrura)
White-flanked Antwren (Myrmotherula axillaris)
Long-winged Antwren (Myrmotherula longipennis)
Gray Antwren (Myrmotherula menetriesii)
Dugand’s Antwren (Herpsilochmus dugandi)
Gray Antbird (Cercomacra cinerascens)
Blackish Antbird (Cercomacra nigrescens)
Black Antbird (Cercomacra serva)
Black-faced Antbird (Myrmoborus myotherinus)
Warbling Antbird (Hypocnemis cantator)
Yellow-browed Antbird (Hypocnemis hypoxantha)
Spot-backed Antbird (Hylophylax naevia)
Scale-backed Antbird (Hylophylax poecilinota)
Banded Antbird (Dichrozona cincta)
Spot-winged Antbird (Schistocichla leucostigma)
Silvered Antbird (Sclateria naevia)
Black Bushbird ( Neotantes niger)
White-shouldered Antbird (Myrmeciza melanoceps)
Sooty Antbird (Myrmeciza fortis)
White-plumed Antbird (Pithys albifrons)
Bicolored Antbird (Gymnopithys leucaspis)
Lunulated Antbird (Gymnopithys lunulata)
Reddish-winged Bare-eye (Phlegopsis erythroptera)
Rufous-capped Antthrush (Formicarius colma) H
Black-faced Antthrush (Formicarius analis) H
White-lored Antpitta (Hylopezus fulviventris)
Thrush-like Antpitta (Myrmothera campanisona) H
Ash-throated Gnateater (Conopophaga peruviana)
Rusty-belted Tapaculo (Liosceles thoracicus) H
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher (Mionectes oleagineus)
Ringed Antpipit (Corythopis torquata)
Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant (Myiornis ecaudatus) H
Double-banded Pygmy-Tyrant (Lophotriccus vitiosus)
White-eyed Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus zosterops) H
Rufous-tailed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon ruficauda) H
Gray-crowned Flatbill (Tolmomyias poliocephalus) H
Olive-faced Flatbill (Tolmomyias viridiceps)
Golden-crowned Spadebill (Platyrinchus coronatus) H
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher (Terenotriccus erythrurus)
Black-tailed Flycatcher (Myiobius atricaudus)
Eastern Wood Pewee (Contopus virens)
Drab Water-Tyrant (Ochthornis littoralis)
Bright-rumped Attila (Attila spadiceus) H
Citron-bellied Attila (Attila citriniventris)
Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus)
Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua)
Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)
Gray-capped Flycatcher (Myiozetetes granadensis)
Dusky-chested Flycatcher (Myiozetetes luteiventris)
Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus)
Piratic Flycatcher (Legatus leucophaius)
Yellow-throated Flycatcher (Conopias parvus)
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Black-tailed Tityra (Tityra cayana)
Screaming Piha (Lipaugus vociferans)
Plum-throated Cotinga (Cotinga maynana)
Golden-headed Manakin (Pipra erythrocephala)
White-crowned Manakin (Dixiphia pipra)
Blue-crowned Manakin (Lepidothrix coronata)
White-bearded Manakin (Manacus manacus) H
Western Striped Manakin (Machaeropterus regulus) H
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin (Tyranneutes stolzmanni) H
Wing-barred Piprites (Piprites chloris)
Thrush-like Schiffornis (Schiffornis turdinus)
Violaceous Jay (Cyanocorax violaceus)
Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus)
Yellow-green Vireo (Vireo flovoviridis)
Dusky-capped Greenlet (Hylophilus hypoxanthus)
Lemon-chested Greenlet (Hylophilus thoracicus) H
Tawny-crowned Greenlet (Hylophilus ochraceiceps)
Swainson's Thrush (Turdus ustulatus)
Black-billed Thrush (Turdus ignobilis)
Lawrence's Thrush (Turdus lawrencii) H
White-necked Thrush (Turdus albicollis) H
White-banded Swallow (Atticora fasciata)
Black-capped Donacobius (Donacobius atricapillus)
Thrush-like Wren (Campylorhynchus turdinus)
Coraya Wren (Thryothorus coraya)
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)
White-breasted Wood-Wren (Henicorhina leucosticta)
Long-billed Gnatwren (Ramphocaenus melanurus) H
Buff-rumped Warbler (Basileuterus fulvicauda) H
Short-billed Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes nitidus)
Purple Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes caeruleus)
Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza)
Black-faced Dacnis (Dacnis lineata)
Yellow-bellied Dacnis (Dacnis flaviventer)
Orange-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster)
Rufous-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia rufiventris)
White-lored Euphonia (Euphonia chrysopasta)
Opal-crowned Tanager (Tangara callophrys)
Paradise Tanager (Tangara chilensis)
Green-and-gold Tanager (Tangara schrankii)
Yellow-bellied Tanager (Tangara xanthogastra)
Bay Headed Tanager (Tangara gyrola)
Swallow Tanager (Tersina viridis)
Blue-gray Tanager (Thraupis episcopus)
Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)
Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo)
Masked Crimson Tanager (Ramphocelus nigrogularis)
Summer Tanager (Piranga rubra)
Magpie Tanager (Cissopis leveriana)
Buff-throated Saltator (Saltator maximus)
Slate-colored Grossbeak (Saltator grossus)
Blue-black Grosbeak (Cyanocompsa cyanoides) H
Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela)
Solitary Cacique (Cacicus solitarius) H
Casqued Oropendola (Clypicterus oseryi)
Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus)
Russet-backed Oropendola (Psarocolius angustifrons)
Green Oropendola (Psarocolius viridis)
Olive Oropendola (Psarocolius bifasciatus)
Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis)
Giant Cowbird (Scaphidura oryzivora)
Orange-backed Troupial (Icterus croconotus)