Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
Grey-cheeked Nunlet |
Tocuyo Sparrow |
Yellow-eared Parrot |
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Rufous-fronted Parakeet |
Golden-crowned Tanager |
Golden-bellied Starfrontlet |
In August 2012 John and Ruth Ward visited the Ecoturs stand at the UK Birdfair and asked me if I would be able to design a comprehensive, customized Colombia itinerary. They wished to tailor it around their target species, whilst taking into account the restricted mobility that John suffered from due to several health problems. The following report details the resulting trip which was extremely successful. We managed to see 51 Colombian endemics and found over 110 new species for the already well travelled Ward’s. Apart from the endemics, highlights included such mouthwatering and highly prized species as Grey-cheeked Nunlet, Tocuyo Sparrow, Black-fronted Wood Quail, Northern Screamer, Rosy Thrush-Tanager, Rusty-faced Parrot, Yellow-breasted Antpitta, Bearded Helmetcrest, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Powerful Woodpecker, Lyre-tailed Nightjar, Noble Snipe, Vermilion Cardinal, Orinoco Saltator, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, Black Solitaire, Magdalena Antbird, Yellow-headed Manakin, White-capped Tanager, Rusty-breasted Antpitta, Pacific Tuftedcheek, Toucan Barbet, Purplish-mantled Tanager, Indigo Flowerpiercer and Chestnut Piculet.
I had designed the itinerary so as to exclude several of the more arduous sites and we generally undertook gentle, downhill roadside birding at most of the sites we visited. We made no attempt to achieve a high trip list and focused almost exclusively on a fairly small lists of targets (mainly endemics and specialties as the Ward’s had travelled extensively in South America previously). We did little trail or night birding which meant we missed a few species. Rather than dwell on the small number of species we missed it seems more pertinent that this report be a reflection of where it is possible to go and what it is possible to see in Colombia, even for those with somewhat restricted mobility.
For many more pictures please check EcoTurs web page here.
Day 1. 2nd June 2013. Chingaza NP.
Our first morning was spent roadside birding on the edge of the beautiful but often cold Chingaza NP. We did indeed find the weather rather inclement but the birding was fantastic with one of the first birds we saw being a group of the highly attractive Black-chested Mountain Tanagers. We followed this with nice looks at a pair of the near-endemic Pale-bellied Tapaculo. We then got busy with several mixed flock which held Black-headed Hemispingus, Pearled Treerunner, Black-capped, White-banded and White-throated Tyrannulets, Blue-backed Conebill, Pale-naped and Slaty Brush Finches and plenty of Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers. The icing on the cake was good views of a couple of skulking Golden-crowned Tanagers.
We were also kept busy with the hummingbirds which included Amethyst-throated Sunangel (of the clarisse subspecies which is sometimes split as Longuemare’s Sunangel), Tyrian Metaltail, Glowing Puffleg and up to 3 Great Sapphirewings.
We headed deeper into the park and had great looks at a pair of Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles perched close by and also enjoyed a brief Black-billed Mountain Toucan. We then located our main target a group of the endemic Brown-breasted Parakeets. We had brief perched views and then great flight views which allowed us to appreciate why this species is also known as Flame-winged Parakeet. We managed to add the near endemic Rufous-browed Conebill and the always attractive Plushcap before deciding to head back to Bogota.
Day 2. 3rd June 2013. Parque La Florida – La Vega – La Victoria.
Our second morning started in some marshes on the edge of Bogota where we quickly had good views of several endemic Bogota Rails. We also had great views of Noble Snipe, with several individuals seen perching on fence posts or display flighting overhead. Other species of interest included Yellow-hooded Blackbirds and Spot-flanked Gallinule. A second short stop produced fantastic views of a pair of the endemic Silvery-throated Spinetails. We then visited a nearby reed bed where we enjoyed good views of both Apolinar’s Wren and Subtropical Doradito. We also had much briefer looks at a couple of fly-by Grassland Yellow Finches of the bogotensis subspecies.
It was time to leave Bogota and start dropping down into the Magdalena Valley. We first though made a stop at a patch of woodland in the foothills. Here we managed to find a pair of skulking Stripe-breasted Spinetails, a rather nice Rusty-breasted Antpitta, and a male of the near endemic Bar-crested Antshrike. We also found an obliging pair of Rufous-naped Greenlets. We then continued on to the Jardin Encantando hummingbird garden where our main target the endemic Indigo-capped Hummingbird was abundant. We also enjoyed good looks at both Gorgeted and White-bellied Woodstars amongst a host of commoner species.
After lunch in the Magdalena valley we made a late afternoon visit to the forests near La Victoria. Although the forest was rather quiet we managed to find a pair of very obliging Sooty-Ant Tanagers which gave splendid views. As we dropped back down to the town we located a pre-roost gathering of Orange-chinned Parakeets which also held a few Spectacled Parrotlets and then had brief looks at a White-mantled Barbet.
Day 3. 4th June 2013. La Victoria – Laguna del Hato.
We had a full morning birding in the forest near La Victoria. The main highlights were prolonged looks at a Beautiful Woodpecker, scope views of a perched Sooty-headed Wren (a near-endemic) and good views of a skulking Magdalena Antbird (a recent split). We rounded of the morning by locating a pair of White-mantled Barbets which perched overhead and put on quite a display. They allowed much lengthier views than those of the individual seen briefly the previous evening. In the afternoon we visited dry forest in the lower part of the valley where we had fantastic looks at a couple of Barred Puffbirds and also located several endemic Velvet-fronted Euphonias.
Day 4. 5th June 2013. Libano – Rio Blanco.
We spent the morning birding in the patchy forest above the coffee producing town of Libano. Here we quickly located the endemic Yellow-headed Brush Finch and also enjoyed good looks at a pair of skulking Black-headed Brush Finches. Our first Highland Motmot’s were found perched in a gulley and we found a couple of Sharp-tailed Streamcreepers and a brief Ruddy Foliage Gleaner. A Moustached Puffbird showed well and we saw our first Emerald Toucanets (treated as a full species, Grey-throated Toucanet by the IOC, a Colombian endemic).
We then drove over the central Andes and arrived at Rio Blanco reserve with time to enjoy some of the hummingbirds at the feeders. These included Tourmaline Sunangel, Long-tailed Sylph, Collared Inca and Fawn-breasted Brilliant. We also had fantastic looks at a confiding Flammulated Treehunter as it foraged close to the Lodge. We rounded off the day by enjoying brilliant views of our first Crab-eating Fox of the trip which was taking scraps behind the kitchen.
Day 5. 6th June 2013. Rio Blanco.
Our first full day at Rio Blanco started with a nice Buff-breasted Mountain Tanager singing near the Lodge. After breakfast it was time to go and look for Antpittas. We visited the first feeding station where we had good views of Chesnut-crowned and the endemic Brown-banded Antpitta. We then moved on and tried for Bicolored Antpitta, which called back but didn’t emerge. After this we visited a third feeding station where a diminutive Slate-crowned Antpitta gave excellent views. We also enjoyed good looks at Grey-browed Brush Finch to add to the White-naped Brush Finches that we had seen earlier visiting the fruit feeders by the Lodge. Other birds seen in the morning included several obliging Masked Trogons and nice looks at both Powerful and Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers. We also located several mixed flocks which held Black-eared, Black-capped and Oleaginous Hemispinguses, and Lachrymose Mountain Tanager. We took a short siesta in the middle of the day but this was interrupted by several of the endemic Andean Squirrels which were watched visiting the fruit feeders.
In the afternoon we spent some time looking for Rusty-faced Parrot and enjoyed some good fly by views. We also located a nice pair of Black-collared Jays and followed this with several Red-hooded Tanagers. These gave great scope views perched high in the tree tops with the attractive males being especially appreciated. We finished the day by trying a spot of owling which produced a couple of Sickle-winged Guans at dusk and then a pair of responsive White-throated Screech Owls. Despite some effort we were only able to get silhouette views of the Owls.
Day 6. 7th June 2013. Rio Blanco.
Our second day at Rio Blanco began with a second trip to the first Antpitta feeding station. Here we enjoyed great looks at a Chestnut-naped Antpitta which had been absent on the previous day. We also enjoyed second looks at Chestnut-crowned and Brown-banded Antpittas. A group of Rufous-crowned Tody Flycatchers were very obliging and we found Grass-green, Fawn-breasted and Blue-and-Black Tanagers amongst the mixed flocks. As John was suffering somewhat we had a relaxed afternoon.
Day 7. 8th June 2013. Nevado del Ruiz – Otun Quimbaya.
We had a very early start but this paid of when we connected with a group of the endemic Rufous-fronted Parakeets at dawn. After enjoying prolonged scope views we continued further into the park and soon located our second main target, a superb Bearded Helmetcrest. This individual was very obliging as it frequently returned to the same perch, where it could be watched singing. We also had nice views of a Tapeti/Brazilian rabbit and then a Tawny Antpitta put on a fine display as it preened and called for a prolonged period while perched fully in the open. Both Stout-billed Cinclodes and Plumbeous Sierra Finch were common roadside. Other birds seen included Andean Tit-Spinetail, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, several Sedge Wren’s, and a Mouse-colored Thistletail, which uncharacteristically perched on top of a small bush.
We then decided to bird slowly back to Manizales down a bumpy back road. Our first stop produced stunning close up views of a Paramo Tapaculo. We then spent some time searching for hummingbirds and managed good looks at Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, both Tyrian and Viridian Metaltails, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, several Great Sapphirewings, a showy Golden-breasted Puffleg and a much briefer Black-thighed Puffleg.
A mixed flock allowed great views of Crowned Chat-Tyrant and Golden-crowned Tanager, while we also located Andean Pygmy Owl, Hooded Mountain Tanager and several Citrine Warblers. In the late afternoon we drove to Otun Quimbaya. Despite arriving near dusk we still managed to locate a couple of the endemic Cauca Guans close to our accommodation.
Day 8. 9th June 2013. Otun Quimbaya – Las Tangaras.
We spent the day birding around the accommodation at Otun Quimbaya and along one of the trails. We quickly managed further views of several Cauca Guans and also nice looks at a couple of Red-ruffed Fruitcrow’s. We then managed reasonable if brief views of a group of Chestnut Wood Quails that scurried across the trail. After quite some time on the trail a couple of Multicolored Tanagers suddenly appeared and we all enjoyed good views. Other birds seen during the morning included Spotted Barbtail, Slaty Antwren and Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, while several Collared Trogons and Green Jays added some color .We finished the morning off with some nice looks as a couple of skulking Blackish Rails. We then made the long drive to the Las Tangaras reserve where we arrived in the evening.
Day 9. 10th June 2013. Las Tangaras Reserve.
Having had a long travel day the previous day we decided to start the day at Las Tangaras Lodge where Crested Ant-Tanagers frequently visit at dawn to take moths from around the lights. This morning however they didn’t appear although a small group of Hepatic Tanagers provided some compensation. We quickly headed up to the reserve where we spent the day birding down the road through some very nice cloud forest. The reserve certainly lived up to its name, as apart from our main target the endemic Black-and-Gold Tanager we also saw Purplish-mantled, Rufous-throated, Saffron-crowned and Silver-throated Tanagers. Other highlights included Golden-headed Quetzal, several Red-headed Barbets, a couple of showy Pacific Tuftedcheeks, a nice triple of Scaly-throated, Lineated and Buff-fronted Foliage Gleaners, and a single Black Solitaire. The quality birding also included Indigo Flowerpiercer, several Choco Brushfinches and great looks at both Chestnut-breasted and Golden-collared Chlorophonias.
Lunchtime was spent at the hummingbird feeders. These were a hive of activity and included such spectacular species as Violet-tailed Sylph, Velvet-Purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, Booted Racket-tail and Purple-throated Woodstar. More subdued but nether the less still notable were White-tailed Hillstar, Brown Inca, Greenish Puffleg and a female Purple-bibbed Whitetip.
We returned to the Lodge for a siesta mid-day. We took some time to look at the hummingbird feeders around the Lodge which held Andean Emerald and Green-crowned Woodnymph and we also enjoyed the endemic Flame-rumped Tanagers that were visiting the fruit feeders.
We decided to finish the day with a spot of Owling. As we waited for dusk to descend we managed to find an Alto de Pisones Tapaculo (a yet to be formally described Colombian endemic) which gave close views. A Colombian Screech Owl was then found by Trevor but managed to disappear back into the forest before John and Ruth managed any views. It continued to call nearby but failed to reappear.
Day 10. 11th June 2013. Las Tangaras Reserve.
Our second full day at Las Tangaras was similar to the first with a morning spent birding down the road and a more relaxed afternoon around the Lodge. The morning started well as we located an Olive Finch. The bird was feeding on the road between Trevor and John and Ruth. While enjoying this normally skulking bird out in the open John and Ruth started to call to Trevor to turn around. When he did he found a Yellow-breasted Antpitta quietly hopping along the road virtually at his feet. The Antpitta spent a prolonged time feeding in the open along the road, a truly fantastic experience. After this great start we decided to bird at the start of the first trail where we had excellent views of several White-headed Wren’s and also good views of a group of Black-chinned Mountain Tanagers.
During the rest of the morning we saw many similar species to the previous day but also added quality species including a roosting Lyre-tailed Nightjar, good views of a couple of Toucan Barbets and excellent close views of a Yellow-vented Woodpecker. The same flock which held the Woodpecker also contained Rufous-browed Tyrannulet and Olivaceous Piha. Further highlights included a couple of Yellow-breasted Antwren’s, numerous Glistening-green Tanagers and a pair of Golden-collared Honeycreepers. We also managed to locate a couple of Crested Ant-tanagers which were seen well as they worked along a stream.
Day 11. 12th June 2013. La Eme – Jardin.
We made an early start and drove up to the remote La Eme pass. Here we quickly located the main target a Munchique Woodwren. John (who in the 70’s featured on an obscure vinyl LP called Big Jake Calls the Waders) showed that he has lost none of his vocal expertise and quickly called the bird close in with an expert whistled imitation.
We spent much of the morning birding slowly down the road and a second major highlight was a Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer which briefly came in to the Pygmy Owl tape. Other species seen included a showy Rufous Spinetail, a vocal Smoky-Bush Tyrant and a couple of Pale-footed Swallows which buzzed low overhead. We rounded the morning off with a fantastic group of four noisy White-capped Tanagers which showed very well. We retuned to the town of El Carmen for a relaxed lunch before driving to Jardin where we arrived in the evening.
Day 12. 13th June 2013. Yellow-eared Parrot Reserve – Jardin.
We made an early start and headed up to the Yellow-eared Parrot reserve. We arrived at the top of the pass pre-dawn and managed to spotlight a Rufous-banded Owl perched above the road. Although dawn did then break viewing was hampered by a thick and persistent fog. By mid-morning we had only managed silhouette views of a couple of fly by parrots so we decided to drop to lower elevations and then return in the afternoon in the hope that the mist had cleared.
This plan worked well as lower down the weather was clearer. We quickly located a couple of skulkers, with both White-browed Spinetail and Striped Treehunter showing well. A Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant was much more obliging perching out in the open and other additional species included Capped Conebill and a group of Mountain Caciques.
We returned to the top of the pass in the late afternoon and enjoyed fantastic close up views of a small group of parrots which perched up close and fed in a fruiting tree. After this fitting final we returned to the beautiful town of Jardin for a relaxed evening.
Day 13. 14th June 2013. Cauca Valley – La Romera.
We spent the early morning birding in the Cauca Valley. A Colombian Chachalaca showed briefly and then we had good looks at Greyish piculet and Apical Flycatcher (both endemics). After this we scoped a Antioquia Wren, another Colombian endemic, which was only recently described. Other birds seen included a nice male White-fringed Antwren, a couple of Greenish Elaenias, a Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, a showy Black-striped Sparrow and a small group of Golden-crowned Warblers.
We then continued on to Medellin where after dropping our stuff at the hotel we decided to visit the nearby La Romera Park. We located several Sickle-winged Guans and then found a group of Colombian Chachalacas which gave much better views than the single bird we had seen in the morning. We carried on birding for much of the afternoon and were rewarded with two of our main targets, firstly a couple of Red-bellied Grackles and then a Yellow-headed Manakin. The Grackles were first located feeding but we were amazed when a bird flew towards us and started sitting on a nest right next to the road. The Manakin took more patience but this paid off when a bird appeared and perched close by, allowing us to enjoy what this rare and little known species. Although we heard several Stiles’s Tapaculo’s we didn’t get even a hint of a sighting.
Day 14. 15th June 2013. La Romera – Rio Claro.
We made a second early morning trip to La Romera which was very successful in achieving our main target seeing Stiles’s Tapaculo. An obliging bird gave great views as it emerged from the vegetation to have a look at us. It then disappeared back into the safety of the undergrowth but continued to call angrily back at us. We enjoyed a few other commoner species before climbing out of Medellin and then descending into the hot Magdalena Valley.
We arrived at our accommodation near Rio Claro with time for a little birding before lunch. Birding around the hotel grounds produced good views of Limpkin, Lesser-Yellow-headed Vulture and Ruddy-breasted Seedeater. The seedeater was especially appreciated by Ruth who had missed a bird we had seen near the start of the tour.
After lunch we decided to walk down to the Oilbird cave. It took us a while and the heat didn’t help but once we reached the cave we had excellent views of 15 – 20 Oilbirds. They perched on the ledges and noisily called or occasionally flew from one side of the cave to the other. The walk back was also hot and John struggled with one or two of the bumpier sections but we managed to break it up with a few birds. A group of Chestnut-fronted Macaws gave good views both perched and in flight and a family group of Band-backed Wren’s were also much appreciated.
Day 15. 16th June 2013. Rio Claro – Magdalena Valley
We started the day birding at Rio Claro. We quickly located a Pacific Antwren which did it’s best to skulk but eventually gave good views. After this we managed to find Rufous-breasted Hermit, White-tailed Trogon, Cinnamon Woodpecker, a White-mantled Barbet and several Golden-hooded Tanagers.
We then made a drive down into the Magdalena Valley where we visited a marsh and had good views of several Northern Screamers. Other birds at the marsh included Black-bellied and White-faced Whistling Ducks, Anhinga, White-headed Marsh Tyrant and a couple of showy Yellow-chinned Spinetails. We returned to Rio Claro in the afternoon but first made a lunch stop beside the Rio Magdalena which produced a mixed group of Black Skimmers and Large-billed Terns.
Day 16. 17th June 2013. Rio Claro – Barranquilla
We started the morning birding a quite road near the hotel. On the drive there we had great looks at a couple of Capped Herons and a perched Laughing Falcon. The road which led through some great lowland forest was very productive. We quickly found a perched Western Striped Manakin and followed this with an eventually co-operative Southern Bentbill. Next up a calling male Bare-crowned Antbird was enticed into view giving everybody good looks at what is a very attractive species. We followed this with a couple of Chestnut-backed Antbirds and were also distracted by several troops of the endangered White-footed Tamarin, which seemed pleasingly common at this site.
The final highlight of the morning was locating an obliging Grey-cheeked Nunlet which perched up and allowed everybody good scope views. A Citron-throated Toucan provided a final splash of color before we headed back to the hotel. We took a shower and packed our bags before driving to Medellin airport where we took a flight to Barranquilla which arrived in the evening.
Day 17. 18th June 2013 Barranquilla – Minca.
We made an early morning visit to some scrub on the edge of Barranquilla where we had great looks at a couple of perched Chestnut-winged Chachalacas, a Colombian endemic. We then moved on to an area of Mangroves where we had good looks at a couple of Sapphire-throated Hummingbirds. We also located a roosting Lesser Nighthawk, a small group of Bicolored Conebills and a couple of Chestnut Piculets. A major mammal highlight was provided by a couple of Speckled tree rats that gave incredible close views in the acacia’s. We left the mangroves to bird an area of scrub and marshes which produced Russet-throated Puffbird, Pacific Hornero and several Stripe-backed Wren’s. After this we began making our way east with the occasional stop to scan the roadside pools in the Cienega National Park. These roadside stops produced 3 American Flamingoes, a selection of herons and waders and a few Terns and Black Skimmers. We arrived at Minca in the afternoon where we enjoyed a selection of hummingbirds on the feeders which included Pale-breasted and Rufous-breasted Hermits.
Day 18. 19th June 2013. Minca.
We spent the morning birding up the road from Minca. One of the main targets was Rosy-thrush Tanager and we managed to scope a singing male. We also enjoyed good looks at both Rufous-breasted and Rufous-and-White Wrens, Rufous-tailed Jacamar and a single male Gartered Trogon. A fly by Keel-billed Toucan, a Scaled Piculet and good views of our first Black-chested Jays were also much appreciated. The morning was actually very birdy and we also enjoyed a nice group of Crimson-crested Woodpeckers, a male Barred Antshrike, a Pale-eyed Pygmy Tyrant and several Golden-winged Sparrows.
We returned to hotel Minca and while waiting for lunch we enjoyed fantastic close up views of a Golden-fronted Greenlet and a pair of Blue-black Grosbeaks in the garden. We had a relaxed afternoon and then in the late afternoon had a second walk which was successful in locating a couple of Whooping Motmots. We also added Clay-colored Thrush and a couple of Grey-headed Tanagers and had further looks at a couple of Scaled Piculets.
Day 19. June 20th 2013. Minca – El Dorado.
As we left the Lodge a couple of Whooping Motmots were perching on trees in the car park (this was a species we had spent some time searching for on the previous day). We headed up to higher elevations but first made a quick stop to look at a roosting Black-and-White Owl. Our first birding stop quickly produced the recently split Santa Marta Antbird. We followed this with our first Santa Marta Brush Finches, a nice Streak-capped Spinetail and a couple of White-lored Warblers. Several Santa Marta Foliage-gleaners were heard but all were frustratingly skulking and remained hidden.
As the day warmed up and the activity died we stopped off at a patch of flowers where some patient waiting allowed us good views of Long-billed Hermit and the hoped for Blossomcrown (a nice male).
We arrived at El Dorado Lodge around lunchtime and spent most of the afternoon birding from the patio. Here the endemics came thick and fast. A surprise Santa Marta Parakeet flew in and perched in some nearby trees and was quickly followed by a Santa Marta Toucanet in the same trees. The plethora of hummingbirds visiting the feeders in the garden included both male and females of the endemic White-tailed Starfrontlet and a female of the endemic Santa Marta Woodstar. The distinctive districta race of Tyrian Metaltail was also present.
The compost heap was also productive and our on-off vigil was rewarded with a large group of the near-endemic Black-fronted Wood Quails (including some recently fledged young), a pair of the recently split Sierra Nevada Brush Finches and a brief Central American Agouti. A Red-tailed Squirrel made occasional sorties to the fruit feeder which were also visited by a couple of stunning Blue-naped Chlorophonias. After dusk we enjoyed more views of Crab-eating Fox with a single individual taking scraps in the garden.
Day 20. June 21st 2013. San Lorenzo Ridge – El Dorado Bird Reserve.
We made an early start and enjoyed a dawn view of the snow-capped peaks of the Santa Marta Mountains. We were soon enjoying some quality birds and quickly located a couple of Santa Marta Warblers and some vocal Yellow-crowned Whitestarts. A skulking Rusty-headed Spinetail eventually showed well and we also got several looks at a Rufous Antpitta of the vocally distinct spatior race. We followed this with a more obliging Santa Marta Antpitta, which showed well despite remaining deep in the undergrowth. A pair of Grey-breasted Wood Wren’s of the highland subspecies showed well and we also saw a couple of Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrants. After some further searching we managed to locate a group of Santa Marta Mountain Tanagers. We then found a Brown-rumped Tapaculo which gave great views as it aggressively called back at us. We rounded off the morning in what was actually the mid afternoon by managing to locate a Santa Marta Bush Tyrant which perched on a high perch and allowed great scope views.
In the late afternoon we relaxed around the Lodge enjoying the hummingbirds.
Day 21. June 22nd. El Dorado Lodge – Around and below.
We spent the morning birding below El Dorado Lodge. As we drove down to lower elevations we had a Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush running down the road in front of us. We tried a side trail and managed good looks at a Santa Marta Tapaculo and a couple of Grey-throated Leaftossers. John had decided not to tackle the trail so we tried another area where we managed to see the Leaftossers from the road. We heard but again did not see several Santa-Marta Foliage Gleaners but did get looks at Montane Woodcreepers (of the vocally distinct and endemic sanctaemartae race) and enjoyed further views of several White-lored Warblers.
In the afternoon we walked the road a short distance both up and downhill from the lodge. This was very productive allowing us great views of Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, White-tipped Quetzal, Masked Trogon and Golden-breasted Fruiteater. We also had great scope views of a singing Black-hooded Thrush.
Day 22. June 23rd. El Dorado – Los Flamencos NP.
We spent the morning birding down from El Dorado Lodge. One of our first targets was Santa Marta Tapaculo which John had not seen on the previous day. We managed to show this species to him after struggling up a trail and then continued our descent to lower elevations. At our first stop a Santa Marta Foliage Gleaner was very skulking but allowed John some reasonable views. A Yellow-legged Thrush showed well perched roadside and then we had good views of a Coppery Emerald visiting a flowering tree. The same tree also held a Black-headed Tanager. As we dropped down to Hotel Minca we tried one more stop which produced a pair of more showy Santa Marta Foliage Gleaners which were seen by all.
We then made the long drive to the Guajira peninsula where we arrived in the late afternoon. Here we quickly entered the scrub and despite the heat managed locate some of the target species. Our first flock included Red-billed Emerald, Chestnut Piculet, several White-whiskered Spinetails, Slender-billed Tyrannulet and a Glaucos Tanager. We moved on to try another area where we located a Dwarf Cuckoo, Orinoco Saltator and a male Vermilion Cardinal which flew across the road and perched in the scrub.
We finished the day at the Los Flamencos lagoon which was teeming with birds including large numbers of Flamingos, a scattering of herons, a single Scarlet Ibis and several flocks of Roseate Spoonbills. A selection of waders included a Marbled Godwit, a minor Colombian rarity, and a group of terns consisted of Gull-billed, Cabot’s and Royal.
Day 23. 24th June 2013. Los Flamencos NP – Rogitama Reserve.
We spent the morning birding in another area of where we quickly located a Tocuyo sparrow which showed well perching in the scrub. Other species seen included several Velvet-fronted Euphonias, a Pale-tipped Inezia, a Pearly-vented Tody Tyrant and a couple of Pileated Finches. We also enjoyed further looks at many of the species we had seen on the previous day.
In the late morning we decided to head down to the lagoon and beach where we enjoyed some relaxed birding. A number of Laughing Gulls were located loafing offshore and a couple of Common Terns were roosting at the lagoon mouth. We also found some nice Scaled Doves, a female Vermilion Cardinal, a Green-rumped Parrotlet perched in a hole in a palm and a Grey Kingbird feeding along the beach.
We returned to our hotel late morning where we changed and showered before catching a flight back to Bogota. We then left Bogota and drove north to the Rogitama reserve in the eastern Andes where we arrived at Dusk.
Day 24. 25th June 2013. Rogitama Reserve.
We spent much of the morning at the Rogitama Reserve. We quickly managed to locate the main target, a Black Inca, which gave great views as it perched or hawked for insects along the entrance track. We also had brief looks at a Short-tailed Emerald and longer views of a female Gorgeted Woodstar. Other species seen included several Yellow-breasted Brush Finches and a singing Yellow-backed Oriole. As we left the reserve a group of Chestnut-collared Swifts showed well as they hawked over the nearby pastures. With John not feeling particularly well we decided to scrap a planned trip to Soata further north and instead returned to Bogota for a relaxed afternoon. We did make brief stop to look at the monuments at the site of the Battle of Boyaca where Colombia gained it’s independence from Spain.
Day 25. 26th June 2013, Laguna de Pedro Palo.
We made an early morning visit to Laguna de Pedro Palo where we quickly connected with our main target Turquoise Dacnis. We had great views scope views of a pair and spent some time watching the attractive male as it foraged in the tree-tops. We also managed to find a Metallic-green Tanager and enjoyed a host of commoner species.
We then moved on to a nearby site where we enjoyed great views of several Golden-bellied Starfrontlets visiting some hummingbird feeders. This spectacular hummingbird seemed a great final target species with which to end the tour. Several Glowing Pufflegs also show well. We decided to drop down into some cloud forest below the hummingbird feeders where we found several White-throated Toucanets (a full species under the IOC taxonomy and possibly another new species for the Ward’s). We then returned to Bogota for a relaxed afternoon.
Day 26. 27th June 2013. Cerro de Guadalupe.
While the gorgeous Golden-bellied Starfrontlet yesterday may have seemed a fitting finale to a great tour we couldn’t resist a final bit of birding around Bogota. John decided to take the morning off so it was just Ruth and I who enjoyed the chilly but spectacular view of Bogota from the heights of Cerro Guadalupe. We soon located a nice group of Black-chested Mountain Tanagers and Pale-naped Brush Finches. We also enjoyed some small flocks of Andean Siskins and several showy Paramo Seedeaters. A Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant was scoped perched on some wires and then we found a mixed flock which included a family party of Black-headed Hemispinguses.
We continued birding down from the summit and found a showy Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet. A Rufous Antpitta of the local and vocally distinct, but undescribed, subspecies was more skulking but eventually showed well perched in the open. One of the final birds we found was a female Purple-backed Thornbill which was visiting a fruiting tree. We then returned to the hotel taking in a brief tour of the scenic old quarter of Bogota. We completed the final daily log and had a celebratory meal and Ice Creams at Crepes and Waffles (something of a Colombian institution) before John and Ruth caught the early evening flight back to Europe.