I decided on August 28th to spend the Labor Day holiday weekend birding in Eastern Panama.
I sent email inquiries to three birding guides/services I found online in the hope someone would be available at the last minute. I got a quick response from Jacobo Ortega who had a reasonably slick website 'Birding Panama'. A few exchanged emails and a phone call sealed the deal. Jacobo proposed picking me up at PTY on Friday after a direct flight from O'Hare on Copa Airlines. He quoted an all inclusive price in the range of $1,300-1,600 depending on the quality of lodging.
At no point did he discuss how or when the fee was to be paid.
The trip started off reasonably well as we left Tocumen Airport around 3:00 in the afternoon headed points East. My original notion was for us to drive to the end of the road and bird forests in the Darien. Jacobo was not very keen on the idea saying there were too many police in that end of the country. I wasn't sure what problems were implied by "too many police' and our language gap prevented me from any real explanation.
The weather was hot and humid with heavy rain in the afternoons typical of the rainy season. After several hours including a stop for cold drinks we arrived at our base for the next two nights, the Hotel Avicar in Torti along the Panamerican Highway. Oddly we made no birding stops in the afternoon.
Saturday 30 August, Torti to Metati.
We spent most of the day birding along the roadside in Darien Province and searching for decent forested habitat with scant results. Eventually we happened across the construction site for the newest property of the Canopy Lodge which is slated to open sometime in the next six months. There we birded along the periphery of the fence decent enough results given the hour. Bird highlights were PEARL KITE, SPOT-BREASTED WOODPECKER, BLACK ANTSHRIKE, WHITE EARED CONEBILL. Night at Hotel Avicar.
Sunday September 1st, Metati to Nusagandi
The previous evening we decided to bird the 'Llano-Carti' Road. I paid for the food and lodging before we left the hotel with cash out of pocket as I had done for each expense encountered thus far.
The drive took over two hours to reach the habitat. When we finally arrived at the trail which I believe is on the property of the Burbayar Lodge the real birding began. At last the guide seemed to be in his element and with superior vision and excellent command of the songs and calls dug some real tough species out of the jungle.
Highlights were: LESSER SWALLOW-TAILED SWIFT, STREAK-CHESTED ANTPITTA, SAPOYA, GREEN MANAKIN, TAWNY-FACED GNATWREN.
The trails were steep, muddy and treacherous. We found some relief by walking along a lovely stream. High rubber boots are a must. On the drive back to our cabin the guide detected the sounds of antbirds from the road so we slogged through some thick vines and bushwhacked towards what turned out to be an army ant swarm. Stunning studies of at least eight OCELLATED ANDBIRDS were the reward along with BICOLORED ANTBIRD. Sadly,I missed the tail end of a ground cuckoo while trying not to stray into the center of the swarming column.
The guide had planned for us to drive back to the Avicar Hotel and return to the Llano Carti trails on Monday morning. I argued that we ought to stay at a modest camp, 'Garduk Cabins' the we encountered nearby. Eventually he agreed and drove back to retrieve our luggage, a voyage of six hours total while I birded the vicinity of the cabin.
Monday September 2nd, Garduk Cabins, Carribean lowlands, Airport.
The final day we stuck mostly to roadside birding on the spectacular roller coasting road from the cabins to the coast. Birds included KING VULTURE (three in the air at once from above) BLACK HAWK EAGLE, BLACK-FACED ANTTHRUSH, BLACK-CAPPED PYGMY TYRANT, BLUE COTINGA, and LESSER SEED FINCH.
My flight was scheduled to leave PTY at 6:40 that evening so I was able to enjoy a full morning of birding before we headed back West. A few stops along the way at wetlands netted a few additional species culminating in a stop at the much diminished Tocumen Marsh. By now it was 4:45 and I was hoping traffic would be light. I asked Jacobo what I owed him for his services as we hadn't had any discussion re. his fee up to that point and I had covered every expense out of my own pocket. He replied $250/day. I felt that was steep but rather late in the game to barter. I had exactly $492 left to my name so I began to write a personal check to cover the remaining $508 plus a customary tip. Jacobo said, "What are you doing?" I answered, "writing a check for the balance not covered by cash" His heretofore barely there demeanor fairly exploded.I don't have a bank! I need my money! I no working for nothing! I wasn't ready for this 180 degree personality reorder from relaxed to spitting mad. Me: I'll mail you cash when I get home. Jacobo: I DONT HAVE A MAILBOX! Me: lets go to the ATM at the airport I know i can get $300 from the ATM. Jacobo: THATS NOT ENOUGH I NEED MY MONEY! Some background, my modus birderandi has been to go on quickly-conceived long weekends with guides who most often accept bank wires before departure and checks for any incidentals. This system has gotten me through two handfuls at least of such trips without drama. The current struggle had Jacobo driving straight away from the airport towards a nondescript shopping plaza which he claimed had banks, all the while becoming more and more angry and threatening. Due to my work situation I desperately needed to be on that last plane out. 5:15. The banks have closed. As I sprint out of the car Jacobo screams 'I'm calling the police!' As I predicted, the most I could withdraw was $300. I jog back to the car, it's 5:40, I don't know where we are, and Jacobo is screaming at the police that I am stealing from him. He asks how much do I have? With the ATM withdrawal, $792. He shouts, "Have the policeman count it!" That's when it hits me. No phone service, flat broke with no chance of cash until midnight, my luggage locked in his car and no love from La Policia. Again 'you no leave without my money!'
Pointing out that Panama has more banks per capita than Switzerland wasn't so helpful. So somewhat desperately I said "here's my binoculars, top of the line LEICAS in new condition" and sure enough he grabbed them. Sinking feeling number two - no cash to get to the airport and no one seemed interested in taking Mastercard anyway. So I searched for an answer, gulped, and calmly informed Jacobo that he would be driving me to the airport. The ride was truly ugly. He got lost twice and cursed me and my family for conspiring to rob him and yes, I most likely was an international terrorist.
Arrived airport 6:15 and I somehow cleared security and passport control and basically closed the 737 door behind me. The next day I sent via Western Union his full fee and double the cost of overnighting my binoculars.
Jacobo answered one of my phone calls but became angry and hung up. There's radio silence since.
So to sum up - discuss all financial issues before leaving the home country and if you still choose Jacobo Ortega, please bring back my Leicas!