Day 1
I met Ron and Sarah from Tazmania at the Cuenca airport and drove straight to Loja to start a luxurious ten-day birdwatching / natural history circuit of four elite ecoresorts, each located in the middle of a unique tropical forest type. Our excursion entailed experiencing very unique habitats and to see and hear beautiful (not necessarily rare or endemic) birds and their songs. Construction continuously blocked our path or increased our travel time (e.g. We started in Cuenca because of renovations to the Loja airport), which will be a nice boost to the country’s logistic infrastructure in the near future. We did manage to sight the occasional Andean Gull, a Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, and a hovering Variable Hawk from the PanAmerican Highway between Cuenca and Loja. After seabass for lunch in Loja, we set off for Copalinga (our first ecoresort), which is conveniently located next to the huge National Park Podocarpus’s lower entrance (Entrance Bombuscaro named for the River Bombuscaro). We planned on turning off onto the old road to Zamora after Loja to look for some highlight birds such as Cliff Flycatcher, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, and Torrent Duck, but construction blocked our path.
The sun shined down when we arrived at Copalinga’s gate, where a flock of Silver-beaked Tanagers greeted us. Violet-headed Hummingbird, Streaked Xenops, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Olive-chested Flycatcher entertained us as we awaited our welcome in the parking lot. Paradise Tanager and Inca Jay bounded around and we saw the southeastern subspecies of Russet-backed Oropendula (P.a. angustifrons). We walked the trails behind the cabins for a bit until we decided to hang up our hats for the day.
Day 2
We ate breakfast early and right before sunrise so we could be in Podocarpus national park for the dawn chorus. A screaming Lanceolated Monklet perched directly overhead for a few moments the instant we passed the welcome sign. Ornate Flycatchers danced all around us while Andean Solitaires and Rufous-breasted Woodquails filled in the chorus. Sorting through various flocks of Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager, we occasionally picked out other new additions such as Montane Foliage-Gleaner, Yellow-olive Flatbill, White-necked Thrush, Orange-eared Tanager, Golden-eared Tanager, and Green-and-gold Tanager. Suddenly, a flock of over 20 White-breasted Parakeets exploded out from the mountain across the valley as single Black Caracara squawked by from the other direction. A small Ruddy Quail-Dove scampered by our feet. Swallow-tailed Kites soared close overhead as we reached the otherwise empty guardhouse area (which baked under the intense sun). We took advantage of the lighting to take beautiful photos of River Bombuscaro’s breath-taking landscape. We looked for a nearby excited Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper as a few noisy Foothill Elaenias bursted onto the scene. Avid chattering drew our attention skywards in time to watch displaying Ringed Kingfishers. I noticed a high-pitched squeak that kept repeating itself as we passed the guardhouse. Within moments, we were crouching in the bushes watching a substantial Green Hermit lek, with many individuals flying around, squeaking up a storm and smacking into each other. Orange-crested Flycatcher called along one of the curves up the main trail and a moment later we confronted three charismatic individuals face-to-face. We ate lunch back at the guard station (a nice picnic with some delectable chicken-curry sandwiches). I finally heard our first large mixed flock coming from behind one of the buildings and seconds later we found ourselves up to our elbows in birds. Forty minutes later the flock started to pass and we had added Equatorial Graytail, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Olivacious Woodcreeper, Social Flycatcher, Gray-mantled Wren, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, Beryl-spangled Tanager, Yellow-bellied Tanager, Guira Tanager, Bay-headed Tanager, and Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager. I noticed a large dark object gracefully flutter into the canopy on our way back to the car. A female Amazonian Umbrellabird soared off while her mate perched inquisitively at close range until we decided to continue on. Northern White-crowned Tapaculos said good-bye teasingly as we left the park for the day. Back at Copalinga, we sat down to focus on hummingbirds. We enjoyed the vast sea of Violet-fronted Brilliants, Glittering-Throated Emeralds, Fork-tailed Woodnymphs, and Many-spotted Hummingbirds. The bananas attracted a pair of Speckled Chachalacas, Orange-bellied Euphonias, Golden Tanagers, a female White-lined Tanager, and Magpie Tanager. Red-billed Parrots flew overhead announcing their passing. A quick walk up to the Gray Tinamou blind revealed a Wedge-billed Woodcreeper and Spotted Tanager. Later, a male Spangled Coquette dashed by a Verbena bush. At dusk, we checked a spot for Blackish Nightjar. First, we heard the tell-tale whistles. Then, we noticed a large object land on the cliff wall next to us. I shined my light next to the bird which allowed a fantastic view of the majestic creature while it performed several sallies.
Day 3
We arose before the sun again the next morning and found (with a little patience and a little coffee) a Band-bellied Owl we had been hearing call around the cabins. We had a few hours before we had to go, so we went to the park to pick up some of the birds we missed in the previous day’s brutal sun. Activity had skyrocketed from the previous morning as clouds filled the sky over Podocarpus National Park. A Booted Racket-tail male darted out to greet us as we passed the welcome billboard. Gray-fronted Doves and Black-capped Sparrows foraged on the path. Multiple new birds darted across our path. A Gray Tinamou vocalized and a few minutes later flushed as we bounded along the path. A beautiful pair of Red-headed Barbets presented themselves quite nicely. Unfortunately we did not have much time as we had to get back for breakfast and then head to Tapichalaca. We spent our precious few minutes at the guard station locating a vocal Black-streaked Puffbird and a Little Woodpecker. We quickly walked out as a Coppery-chested Jacamar as well as a few other goodies finally started vocalizing. We arrived a few minutes late for breakfast and quickly ate so we could watch the Verbena bushes again in hopes of another glimpse of the Coquette or other Copalinga specialty hummer. Sure enough, within a few minutes we saw a Blue-tailed Emerald male, a Golden-tailed Sappire (which we only achieved hearing), and a Wire-crested Thorntail pair. A Short-crested Flycatcher distracted us away from the Verberna momentarily but the wing snap of a displaying male thorntail quickly directed us back. We observed in delight as he wiggled his wire crest. We found a Dark-breasted Spinetail, a Blue-black Grassquit, and an Olivacious Greenlet as we packed our bags up. We made one last stop at some fruiting bushes and a fruiting tree out in front of the hotel before we left. Birds barraged us for 20 minutes until we finally decided we had to go (Tapichalaca staff warned us of road construction along the way). We added to our list Golden-faced Tyrannulet, Grayish Saltator, Black-billed Thrush, Golden-headed Manakin, Chestnut-bellied Seedeater, Purple Honeycreeper, Masked Tanager, Black-faced Dacnis, Fawn-breasted Tanager, and a high-flying Double-toothed Kite to boot as we said bye to Copalinga. We got our jackets handy and set out for Tapichalaca.
Construction forced us on a nice countryside detour on our way to Tapichalaca. We found a promising patch of native scrub where the river ran close to the road and stopped to stretch our legs. Motivated by decent bird activity, I decided to try a shot in the dark. Not really expecting a response, I put on playback for Tumbes Tyrant (until recently thought to be endemic to Tumbesian Peru and only documented at one site in Ecuador’s extreme southwest at Peruvian border) and immediately two nearby individuals responded by flying up from close to the ground and perching on top of the scrub bordering the roadway (three meters in front of us). One promptly disappeared, but the other perched for long enough for all three of us to have a proper inspection. After a moment, the bird vocalized (a match to the playback!) and then disappeared into the scrub. Unfortunately, we neglected to bring our cameras and audio recorders so we did not obtain documentation. We found a clearing with some nice large rocks that provided a perfect picnic table and had lunch. The entire time we ate, a particular tree attracted various birds including Yellow-tailed Orioles, Blue-gray tanagers (east and west subspecies meet here and I believe we saw hybrid forms), Black-faced Tanager, Pacific Hornero, Southern Yellow-Grosbeak, and Fasciated Wren. We saw Croaking Ground-Dove, Scrub Blackbird, Vermillion Flycatcher, Long-tailed Mockingbird, and Saffron Finch as we passed the small town of Quinára. A short time later we rolled up to the borders of the Tapichalaca Reserve.
Before we could get out of the car in Tapichalaca, a soaring White-throated Hawk (rare austral migrant) and clear sky greeted us . We decided to take advantage of the nice weather a go straight for a walk. We found Flavescent Flycatcher, Smoke-colored Pewee, Green-and-Black Fruiteater, Barred Fruiteater, Pale-eyed Thrush, Rufous Spinetail, Rufous Wren, and White-capped Parrot. Many birds chimed out all around us that would remain unseen such as Masked Trogon, Slate-crowned Antpitta, Long-tailed Antbird, Ash-colored Tapaculo, Ocellated Tapaculo, Blackish Tapaculo, Black-throated Tody-tyrant, Rufous Antpitta, Sierran Elaenia, Gray-breasted Wood-wren, Subtropical Cacique, Plain-tailed Wren, and Rufous-breasted Antthrush. We ended our afternoon walk with a close encounter of two Bearded Guans. Back at the lodge, park guards told about recent Oilbird sightings and a known Andean Potoo night perch, but Ron and Sarah opted to get some rest for the upcoming venture to see the Jocotoco Antpitta.
Day 4
We got an early start (early bird gets the worm) in hopes to see an Undulated Antpitta that goes through friendly spurts where he responds to whistling by coming to eat worms. Sure enough, he acted shy but we saw him for prolonged periods on the trail in front of us. Great start! We made our way to the Jocotoco trail, not noticing much else until we reached the White-throated Quail-Dove blind where we watched a few individuals eating at close range. Activity remained unexplainably low until we reached the Jocotoco blind where a cute lil’ white-cheeked Jocotoco Antpitta waited for meal time. Two bold individuals ate worms right in front of us and remained with us until we decided to move on. I recorded one whistling in response to Park Guard Vincente’s calls. Suddenly the trees lit up around us with birds, everywhere, for a few moments. Antpittas aside, the forest once again grew silent. During the burst of action, we picked out Pearled Treerunner, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, Spectacled Whitestart, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Spotted Barbtail, Black-crested Warbler, Blue-backed Conebill, Glossy Flowerpiercer, White-sided Flowerpiercer, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Flame-faced Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Blue-and-black Tanager, Hooded Mountain Tanager, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, and Common Bush-Tanager. We continued along the Jocotoco Trail in search of more antpittas. A rogue Tawny-bellied Hermit shot by like a bullet, almost impaling me. Down the trail a bit, a pair of Chestnut-naped Antpittas offered brief glimpses after some coercing. A Barred Antthrush and Long-tailed Antbird called fervently at the same time. The elusive Golden-crowned Tanager offered us a nice look as we returned to the lodge. Inspection of the hummingbird feeders yielded Flame-throated Sunangel, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, White-bellied Woodstar, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Speckled Hummingbird, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Long-tailed Sylph, and Masked Flowerpiercer.
After lunch we went down into the River Marañon Drainage around the town of Valladolid (quite close to the southernmost point in Ecuador). Once again, construction thwarted part of this trip as roadwork rendered a few of the normal stops inaccessible or not worth stopping. We did manage to make a few stops starting with a mixed flock near the hotel. We stopped because I noticed a Blue-necked Tanager along the road and ended up finding a nice-sized flock which included the elegant Silver-backed Tanager (both male and female which are both quite attractive and quite different). We picked up a Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Marañon Thrush, and Olivacious Siskin on the outskirts of the town. We started to head down further to look for some more goodies further south of Vallodolid, but construction had torn apart the road so we went to a different site right outside of Vallodolid which acts as a corridor for foothill species. We arrived at the site and looked up the hill and saw two perched Organge-breasted Falcons. We took maybe fifty steps from the vehicle and spent the next hour looking at birds (one gigantic mixed flock passed the whole time). We snagged Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Ash-browed Spinetail, Golden-collared Honeycreeper, Montane Woodcreeper, Three-striped Warbler, and Emerald Toucanet (subspecies atrogularis or dimidiatus). Blue-naped Chlorophonia pewed up a storm, but never popped out (we also got proper looks at many birds that had only provided fleeting glimpses beforehand). We stopped again to check for Torrent Duck just above the town and nature rewarded us with an orange Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. A quick little walk before breakfast revealed Grass-Green Tanager, Chusquea Tapaculo, Chestnut-capped Brushfinch, and Northern Mountain Cacique.
Day 5
We had breakfast and decided not to even stop in the cold rain to attempt Chestnut-crested Cotinga, White-bellied Antpitta, Masked Saltator, or any of the other show-stoppers found within Tapichalaca. Off to warmer forests!
We had a long drive ahead of us to Jorupe and road construction made it ever longer. We decided to try to take a shortcut that would save us a few hours, but the closed road forced down a different unpaved route. We did not save time in the end and we missed Catomayo (proving shortcuts rarely get you ahead). We thought about stopping in Utuana, but the notoriously thick afternoon fog ruined that idea. We did stop in Sozorango and found Chestnut-collared Swallow. We reached Jorupe just before sunset. Jorupe’s dry forest is the most lush of any I have ever seen (Parkguard Geovanney attributes this to the intact, ungrazed understory), and the massive green Ceiba trees (they remind me of ents from L.O.T.R.) quickly rejuvenated our spirits after a long car ride. We anxiously awaited the morning, deciding to wait to look for the nocturnal chorus calling all around us. Our only Common Potoo the whole trip called that night.
Day 6
We got an early start the next morning to look for the Watkins Antpitta before breakfast. Along the way we found Harris’s Hawk, Gray-cheeked Parakeet, Pauraque (we heard Pauraque everywhere we went and saw it beforehand but viewed it the best, by far, in Jorupe), Tumbes Swift (heard soaring above the fog that had not lifted yet), Collared Antshrike, Ecuadorian Trogon, Blue-crowned Motmot, Ecuadorian Piculet, Pacific Elaenia, Greenish Elaenia (Sarah took a photo of this Elaenia which supposedly is not found at this site), Social Flycatcher, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Black-and-white Becard, One-colored Becard, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Blackish-headed Spinetail, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Dull-colored Grassquit, White-edged Oriole, Plumbeous-backed Thrush, and Watkin’s Antpitta. We went back for breakfast after we found the antpitta and found a feast underway. Several Guayaquil Squirrels (which are HUGE!), Gray-and-gold Warbler, White-tailed Jay, Thick-billed Euphonia, and Ecuadorian Thrush all feasted on crushed dry corn or bananas at the feeders outside the dining hall. Amazilia Hummingbirds dominated the Long-billed Starthroats at the hummingbird feeders.
After breakfast, Ron and Sarah decided to rest a bit and take photos and record songs (Ron writes music and likes to record bird songs for the purpose or writing bird symphonies… pretty cool!) around the lodge. They sent me off with Parkguard Geovanney to see just what we could find. I startled a small Red Brocket Deer which bounded off into the scrub the moment it saw me. Geovanney said they also come to the feeders. We went on a short loop close to the lodge and came across Rufous-necked Foliage Gleaner, Henna-Hooded Foliage Gleaner, Plain Antvireo, Gray-breasted Flycatcher, Tumbesian Tyrannulet, Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, Great Antshrike, Speckle-breasted Wren. When we got back Sarah showed me some of the pictures she had obtained just from the lodge, which included Streaked Flycatcher, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Pale-browed Tinamou, and two subspecies of Streaked Saltator. During lunch, Blue Ground-Dove male and female treated us by eating from the feeders. After lunch we went to look for Comb Duck along a river close to the reserve. We did not have any duck luck but we did see our first of three iguanas! We also added Pacific Parrotlet (some nearby Gray-cheeked Parakeets allowed us to properly compare size-differences), Gray-breasted Martin, Brown-chested Martin, Northern Crested Caracara, and proper looks at Groove-billed Ani. Ron noted how you can not really make out much of a groove, but they do have smaller bills than Smooth-billed’s. Back at the lodge we found a Tumbes Pewee and a pair of Slaty Becards. After dinner we found a Peruvian Screech-Owl.
Day 7
The next morning, Ron and Sarah decided to sleep in and spend the morning after breakfast just recording birds near the lodge again, and once again they sent us off into the woods and await our report back. We decided to go a long route to look for a few specific birds, including a nesting Laughing Falcon! We noticed a calling Superciliated Wren off the bat. Our long walk added to the trip’s list Three-banded Warbler, King Vulture, Pacific Pygmy-owl, Red-billed Scythebill, Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, and a Savannah Hawk building a nest. Very interestingly, we found a Pale-browed Tinamou fledgeling dead (but without physical maiming) wedged between the Y of a spiny sapling (something obviously placed it there intentionally). We passed by the same point about an hour later and found White-tailed Jays had surrounded the Tinamou. They squawked in alarm and bounded off into the background when we approached. The poor tinamou’s head had been half-eaten and the jays had been working their way down. We kept on our way and let nature take its course. Back at the lodge, Sarah had new photos for me to identify, including both male and female Collared Antshrike. After lunch we decided to go look for the duck again, this time heading in the opposite direction from the day before. We found Ecuadorian Ground-Dove, Sooty-crowned Flycatcher, and Highland Hepatic Tanager as we geared up to leave. We searched the River Macará for Comb duck, where we encountered our second iguana (we had also been quite entertained by the vast amount of small whiptail lizards running around Jorupe). Again no duck luck! We returned for dinner, then we found a pair of Spectacled Owls that we had been listening to for the past couple of nights.
Day 8
We said bye to Jorupe the next day after breakfast and set off for Buenaventura. A Short-tailed Hawk soared just outside of Macará. We stopped at El Empalme and stretched our legs a bit. We found lots of birds in a short time here including Tumbes Hummingbird and White-headed Brush-finch. We arrived a few hours later at Buenaventura and a Central American Agouti greeted us as it chowed on some corn. Parkguard Leo also welcomed us in Jocotoco fashion. We went straight for a walk down the umbrellabird trail. A Gray-backed Hawk kept just ahead of us as we birded along the path. We did not see an umbrellabird this afternoon but we did register Bronze-winged Parrot, Plain-brown Woodcreeper, White-throated Spadebill, White-bearded Manakin, Brownish Twistwing, Bay Wren, Sooty-headed Tyrannulet, Western Slaty Antshrike, Immaculate Antbird, Choco Toucan, Slaty Antwren, White-tipped Sicklebill, Sulphur-rumped Myiobus, Cinnamon Becard, and Slaty-capped Flycatcher. Before dinner we checked out the hummingbird scene which included White-whiskered Hermit, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, White-necked Jacobin, Brown Violetear, Green Thorntail, Emerald-bellied Woodnymph, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Andean Emerald, Green-crowned Brilliant, Violet-tailed Sylph, and Green Honeycreeper. A family of Coatis and a pair of Rufous-headed Chachalacas had their fill of bananas. During dinner, a Black-and-White Owl flew up to the light next to the dining hall. The next morning we set off early to make sure we did not miss the umbrellabird. Howler Monkeys roared in the distance. Along the way to the umbrellabird’s known favorite perching area, we stopped in our tracks as something large crashed through branches. Had we found the umbrellabird? A small troop of capuchin monkeys bounded through. Leo said the species had been hunted out of the area. This troop had been rescued and reintroduced as part of a recovery program.
Suddenly, we heard a low rumbling ‘TUUUUUNNNNNNNN’ and also bounded off. Seconds later, we found a male juvenile Long-wattled Umbrellabird (his wattle only drooped down to his knees). He stayed for a long time and Ron and I recorded him calling (we attribute his soft call to the growing wattle). We had our second wonderful umbrellabird experience of the trip. Fully satisfied, we returned back to camp to regear. On the walk back to camp we picked up Sickle-winged Guan, Club-winged Manakin, Golden-winged Manakin, Buff-rumped Warbler, Song Wren, Silver-throated Tanager, Lemon-rumped Tanager, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, and Orange-billed Sparrow.
Wading birds filled the day’s remaining agenda. We waited until high tide and then high-tailed it to an immense mangrove forest (an incredibly endangered habitat) near Buenaventura for some bird-by-canoe action. Before we even boarded, we saw flying Great-tailed Grackle, Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Cocoi Heron, Cattle Egret, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, White Ibis, Gull-billed Tern, and Whimbrel. Our motorist took us on a giant loop through the massive sea of mangroves until the tide started to drop. The journey involved mounds of wading birds and mangrove specialties, including Magnificent Frigatebird, Neotropical Cormorant, Anhinga, Brown Pelican, Osprey, Black-necked Stilt, Marbled Godwit, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Little Blue Heron, Striated Heron, Roseate Spoonbill, and Mangrove Warbler. The motorist told us that Sundays are the best day to go because high tide occurred in the afternoon when there are more birds (you have to go during high tide if you want to navigate by motorized canoe). After our mangrove stop we relocated to a fresh water swampy site. We did not go on canoes here (likely an extremely interesting option as the waterway is quite ample and calm. Leo (who has gone by canoe) pointed out some very interesting birds in his fieldguide that he has seen there). Even without canoes we had a very productive stop, adding to our list Killdeer, Purple Gallinule, Wattled Jacana, Green Kingfisher, and Chestnut-headed Oropendula.
Day 9
The next day concluded almost a month of adventuring for Ron and Sarah (who had been to the Galapagos, Amazon and Cloudforest beforehand) and they wanted to relax. But first we had to go find the Parakeets painted everywhere on the hotel walls. About 200 individuals remain of the El Oro Parakeet. Aside from about 50 individuals (which live on an adjacent property) the entire remaining population is nestled within Buenaventura reserve. The Jocotoco Foundation is helping their numbers recover via a successful nesting box program. Leo (who does most of the box-monitoring) has seen up to seven sleeping in one little box he has put out for them to use (the boxes are a substitute for the natural cavities found often in bigger trees which are now more scarce).
We stopped en route to the most accessible nestbox at a favorite perch for Barred Puffbird. The slightest of a whistle attracted a beautiful pair which perched (until we decided to leave) in the tree next to us at eye level. A pair of Ochraceous Attilas called at the same time but they did not oblige. We had spectacular views of Spotted Woodcreeper and Yellow Tyrannulet before moving along. I spotted a Savannah Hawk perched regally close to us and Sarah spotted a female Snail Kite high above us and a Black-cheeked Woodpecker on a dead tree. We walked up the trail leading to the nestbox and found fresh puma tracks (quite large I must say). White-throated Crake, Olive-crowned Yellowthroat, and Line-cheeked Spinetail called from the tall grasses around us. We found parakeets immediately, Red-masked Parakeets. We waited a half hour by a nest box in the increasing sun with no luck. Finally, a flock of about 15 zoomed by us and perched in a nearby tree where they immediately all but disappeared again. They kept darting in and out of a cavity in the tree, allowing us to eventually see them very well. Leo said they had just gone through a successful breeding (evidence of Buenaventura’s successful breeding program) but they still use the boxes and tree cavities as shelter.
Afterwards, we stopped at a spot for El Oro Tapaculo and Scaled Fruiteater but had no luck with either. Ron and Sarah decided to relax around the hotel until time to go to the airport. During lunch, a Guayaquil Woodpecker perched right next to the dining hall. We said bye to Leo and Buenaventura and added a Roadside Hawk to our list. At the airport Ron and Sarah finished the tour catching up on a Pacific Pygmy Owl which perched on a wire.
Pale-browed Tinamou, Andean Gull, Violet-headed Hummingbird, Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, Variable Hawk, Streaked Xenops, Ecuadorian Tyrannelet, Foothill Elaenia, Olive-chested Flycatcher, Orange-crested Flycatcher, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Ornate Flycatcher, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Social Flycatcher, Gray-capped Flycatcher, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Andean Thrush, Silver-beaked Tanager, Yellow-throated Bush Tanager, Common Bush Tanager, list not complete.