Central Southern Anatolia, Aladag and the Sultan marshes - Turkey

Published by Basar Safak (basarsafak AT yahoo.com)

Participants: Andy (author) and Michael Lester, Basar Safak

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Photos with this report (click to enlarge)

bımaculated lark
bımaculated lark

We spent the week based at the excellent, inexpensive Ozsafak Pension, near Camardi south of Capodocia. Although this site is two hours from the coast, it is surprisingly central for trips to the mountains and for visits further north to Sultan Marshes. It is also possible to visit the Tarsus Delta for the day and return in the evening. Ozsafak Pension used to be run by the well known local tour guide Ali Safak. Sadly Ali passed away a few years ago and the Pension is now run by his extremely capable and knowledgeable son Basar Safak. Basar's knowledge of local birds is very good indeed and probably surpasses that of the team at nearby Safak Pension. The area around Demirkazik is of course most famous for the rare mountain species - and with a few days here in spring you are pretty much guaranteed all of the top specialties. My top tip is not to rush your time at Ozsafak. Make the most of the warm Turkish hospitality, the uninterrupted mountain views, the simple local foods and the outstanding help from Basar.

We covered a relatively small slice of central southern Turkey, from the Tarsus Delta near Adana through to Sultan Marshes in south Capodocia. We managed to see all the target species in the week - Crimson-winged Finch, Caspian Snowcock, Radde's Accentor, White-breasted Kingfisher, Wallcreeper, Bimaculated lark. Other specialty birds included Slender-billed gull, Barred warbler, Graceful prinia, Red-fronted serin, Finsch’s wheatear, Red-footed falcon, Broad-billed sandpiper, Snow finch, Citrine wagtail, Red-throated pipit, Glossy ibis, Penduline tit, Moustached warbler, Alpine accentor, Lesser-short toed lark and Penduline tit.

There are many reports detailing directions to sites, the following summaries try to keep directions to a minimum unless information from other reports is lacking. 153 species were recorded-and given the limited geographical area (with no time spent further east, nor west towards Goksu Delta), we were very pleased with the total. Mammals tracked or seen included Wolf and Golden Jackal.

Tuzla Golu

Accessed via partially paved road in Tuzla village, drive due south and view from road. Two visits gave outstanding views of fourteen wader species including 38 Broad-billed sandpiper (flock of 28 and 10), 250 Ruff, 15 Spur-winged plover, Curlew sandpiper, Spotted redshank, Black-winged stilt, Avocet. Most egret and heron were well represented with 23 Glossy ibis, 500 Greater flamingo, but just 1 Pygmy cormorant. Eight tern species included White-winged black, Caspian and Whiskered. Passerine of interest included Citrine wagtail, Red-throated pipit, Calandra and short-toed lark. The fields opposite the police station have a colony of Collared pratincole. Back roads from Tuzla are excellent for a wide range of species including White-breasted kingfisher. We saw 7 in orchards and on canal banks between Tuzla and the main Adana to Karatas road. These road also produced 200 Spanish sparrow, 3 Penduline tit, 30 Graceful Prinia, 20 White-spectacled bulbul, 10 Nightingale, 17 Great reed warbler and Lesser kestrel. The surprise was an offshore Arctic skua being harried by Little tern. This site is massively underwatched and deserves a full day to do it justice. 85 species were recorded in the 1.5 days spent here.

Demirkazik and environs

This is mountain birding at its best. The top tip is not to do the high mountains by yourself-despite possible road access for 4 wheeled drive vehicles. Basar’s guiding is excellent and it is money well spent. Without Ozsafak pension there would be a much higher chance of serious disturbance to vulnerable mountain species. Our 4am guided visit to the high ground north of Cucurbag Village produced 35 Snow finch, 3 Crimson-winged finch, 4 Caspian snowcock (showing well down to 250 metres at first light), 2 Radde’s accentor, 8 Alpine accentor, 6 10 Alpine chough, 2 Golden eagle, 1 Rock thrush, 50 Red-billed chough, 5 Isabelline wheatear, 10 Rock bunting, 2 wallcreeper (on the same rock as a Snowcock!!), 20 Red-fronted serin, 1 Cretzschmar’s bunting, 6 Shore lark, 2 Chukar, 3 Black headed bunting and 4 Western rock nuthatch. Emli Valley and Cimbar Gorge near Demirkazik Valley are outstanding as well. On two visits to the gorge we managed to see 5 Wallcreeper (minimum) and down to 20 metres!! Also a good variety of raptor. Both Lanner and a possible saker were recorded from the gorge during our stay. We also picked up Red-footed falcon and Peregrine. Rock sparrow, Rock and Ortolan bunting, European nightjar, Finsch’s and Isabelline wheatear, Western rock nuthatch and Blue rock thrush made up some of the more interesting local birds.

Icmeli Village

North of the Demircazik area off the Yahyali road lies a little oasis of Icmeli. Here we found 10 Golden oriole (!), Masked shrike, Lesser spotted woodpeckerand great views of Barred warbler as well as Eastern Bonelli’s warbler. Citrine wagtail has been recorded and with more time this site is sure to turn up a huge range of passaerine migrants at the right time of year. Keep eyes peeled for passing Long-legged buzzard, Booted eagle and Griffon vulture.

Sultan Marshes

If you have limited time and a limited budget (!) access to the marshes can be found along a farm track about 2km west of the main Sultan Marshes site. We walked out after seeking permission from a local farmer. It was well worth the 1km walk with 4 Black stork, 200 Greater flamingo, 40 White-winged black tern, 300 Whiskered tern, Gull-billed tern, 5 Ruddy shelduck, 300 egret (all 3 species), 100 Black-winged stilt, 500 Ruff, Black eared wheatear, 2 Lesser short-toed lark and 30 Calandra Lark.

The Sultan Marshes centre is expensive. We managed to get a group of four together which cut the boat trip costs to 25 Euro per person. This was reasonable value for the 2.5 hour trip on a punt. The guides are friendly, but speak very little English. My advice would be to take Basar with you from Ozsafak Pension if you are struggling! Our group managed to find 15 Ferruginous duck, 10 Red crested pochard, Black necked grebe, 5 Moustached warbler, 2 Savi’s warbler, 20 Squacco heron, 3 Little bittern, Slender-billed gull and Long-eared owl. White headed duck had been seen in the past week-but we didnt catch up with it.
Ozsafak is a great place to base for a week. If on a two week itinary I would recommend the send week further east towards Birecik. As a combination a total of 200 species will be easily reached and 220 not impossible. In terms of local accommodation Ozsafak is head a shoulders above the rest-and is unique in having uninterrupted mountain views, which are superb for watching raptor, Pallid and Alpine swift, Crag martin and many species in the orchard directly below the building (e.g. Golden oriole, Eastern olivaceous warbler, Nightingale etc)

ÖZŞAFAK PENSION CONTACT DETAILS

www.ozsafak.net
ozsafak@hotmail.com
www.facebook.com/ozsafakpension
00 90 536 2303120