Introduction
This was a short trip involving only about 3 days serious birding, some road days and days off in Agadir. Only about 3 or 4 sites were taken in and those were mainly in the areas noted for desert species ( South of Guelmine & East of Ouarzazate ) as my main target species were birds like Thick-Billed Lark, Temminck’s Lark & Hoopoe Lark. I did manage to do some birding in the Souss Valley and got Black-Winged Kite there, one of the specialities of that region.
Logistics
Flight and Accomodation was booked as a package with Sunway Holidays ( www.sunway.ie )
Aer Lingus flight left Dublin at 15:15 on Saturday 22nd March and arrived in Agadir at 19:10.
Return flight left Agadir at 20:00 on Saturday 29th March and arrived back in Dublin at 23:45.
Accomodation was in the Hotel Argana in Agadir which is a reasonable base for road trips to the Southern Desert areas, Oued Massa, Souss Valley and desert areas east of Ouarazate, although the distances involved can mean over-nighters in hotels in those areas. Agadir would also be good base for a trip to Oukaimeden and seeing the High Atlas species like Crimson-winged Finch, Rock Sparrow and Shorelark.
I did overnight stays in Guelmine ( Hotel Salam) & in Boulmane du Dades ( Hotel Chems / Kasbah du Dades).
Car Hire was a Fiat Punto with Abid Car Rental in Agadir who I had used before and would recommend (www.abidcars.com ). Diesel is quite cheap in Morocco. Driving in Morocco is generally fine when you’re on the open road but in built up areas, you need to have your eyes out on stalks as pedestrians and cyclists will appear from nowhere. Care is especially required at night as many of these guys don’t have lights on their bikes. Cyclists will also use the slow lane on motorways and you may only see them when it’s almost too late. You should always slow down when approaching towns because the local gendarmerie almost always have speed checkpoints, which are sometimes well hidden. I was pulled in outside Taznacht and the traffic cops wanted me to pay a 700 dirham ( 70 euro ) fine but let me off with a 200 dirham payment.
Sources
Dave Gosney Finding Birds in Morocco: The Deserts ( Easybirder 2009 )
Patrick and Fedora Bergier A Birdwatcher’s Guide to Morocco ( Prion 2003)
Diary of Day to Day Sightings
Day 1 (Sunday 23rd March) – Guelmine / Oued Bouhkila / Tan Tan 100 Km
I left Agadir around 10 am and headed south after filling up the car with diesel. No interesting species were recorded until the road started to climb towards the Anti-Atlas ( South of Tiznit ). Several Woodchat Shrikes & Southern Grey Shrikes were spotted on the wires here and the jangling of Serin song was heard on a few occasions. The countryside is absolutely beautiful on this stretch of the road.
I arrived in Guelmine around 2 pm in the afternoon and drove straight through the town, taking the road signposted to Tan Tan. After about 10 kilometres I reached the bridge over the Oued Bouhkila and decided to check this area, where I had Scrub Warbler in March 2012. A Long-legged Buzzard was spotted kettling south of the bridge. I walked south through the waist-high green scrub (left-hand side of the bridge) for about 300 metres but recorded no Scrub Warblers (2-3 birds were found here in 2012). I did find a pair of Red-rumped Wheatear where the scrub meets a cultivated area on the right. Southern Grey Shrike was also recorded here, as well as Thekla Lark singing. Returning to the car through the scrub, I had Willow Warbler and Subalpine Warbler. Some European Bee-eaters were migrating overhead ( picked up on pirrup-ing flight call ). Spanish Sparrows breed under the bridge and there was also Rock Dove present here. GPS Coordinates 28.919453,-10.151367
I continued on towards the Tan Tan 100 Km marker which is about 25 km outside Guelmine and parked on the left there. My target species here was Thick-billed Lark (I had 3 here on the left-hand side in March 2012). The most obvious species here was Short-toed Lark and there were several birds singing in display flight. After walking a short distance to the left, I found Temminck’s Horned Lark. Scanning this area also produced good numbers of Cream-coloured Courser. They seem to be very reliable here. Heading back towards the road, there were a pair of Red-rumped Wheatear breeding right at the 100 Km sign post. I spotted the female disappearing into a crack under a rock with food. I walked for about 400 m to the left of the road and soon heard the eerie song of a Hoopoe Lark. Shortly afterwards I spotted one on the deck, running briskly as they do and then pausing. There is some ploughed up ground on the left where somebody is cultivating something and more Temminck’s Larks were recorded here ( maybe 4 in total) and were very approachable. Spectacled Warbler & Kestrel were also seen in this area. No Thick-billed Larks were found here. GPS Coordinates 28.821026,-10.306334
I drove back towards Guelmine, pausing at the Guelmine 22 Km post which is noted for Thick-billed Lark but didn’t see any here either. As it was getting near dusk, I checked into the Hotel Salam in Guelmine where I had stayed in 2012. It is basic but affordable and satisfactory. That evening, every café in Guelmine was packed as Barca were playing Real in La Liga. Hotel Salam has the only bar in Guelmine and it was full of locals watching the game. Barca won 4-3 in a cracker.
Day 2 (Monday 24th March)
The following morning, I returned to the Tan Tan 100 Km marker but only recorded the same species ( Red-Rumped Wheatear, Short-Toed Lark, Cream-Coloured Courser ). There is a small reservoir just to the north of of Oued Bouhkila which looks interesting and I spotted a couple of White Wagtails here and a pair of Ruddy Shelduck flying over.
The rest of the day was spent driving back north to Agadir but I stopped in at Oued Massa which is about 40 km south of Agadir. I had been here a couple of times before and had interesting species like Tchagra but I tend not to go past the main gate to the reserve as you cannot enter without a guide, which I find a pain. I would happily pay an entrance fee but don’t want to be accompanied by a guide. I checked out some of the gardens & cultivated areas on the road approaching the reserve entrance and had Common Redstart, Stonechat, Tree Pipit and Black-Eared Wheatear.
Laughing Dove was also recorded in Massa village.
Day 3 ( Tuesday 25th March ) Souss Valley /Taliouine / Taznacht / Ouarzazate / Boulmane du Dades
On Tuesday morning, I set off on the long drive east towards Ouarzazate. I took the road through the Souss Valley which bypasses the historic walled city of Taroudant. Black Kite, Southern Grey Shrike and Zitting Cisticola were recorded on the drive. The area of Argan Steppe around Aoulouz was quite birdless, although beautiful in character. I was somewhat optimistically keeping my eyes peeled for Tawny Eagle or Dark Chanting Goshawk but needless to say, I didn’t see any. I think both are considered to be extinct in the Souss with no records since the 1990’s. After the road started to climb towards Taliouine, I began to spot Black Wheatears singing on some of the telegraph poles. The road between Taliouine & Taznacht was also disappointingly birdless, although impressively bleak. I had seen a pair of Lanner along this road in 2012 but very little was recorded this time apart from the ubiquitous Black Wheatears. This road has been improved since 2012 as the surface was quite rough then and you had to crawl through the mountains. Outside of Taznacht, I stopped at the Km 5 marker which Gosney notes as being reliable for Thick-Billed Lark. I walked to the left and had a pair of Black-Bellied Sandgrouse but very little else. Just outside of Ouarzazate, I spotted a Green Sandpiper feeding in a stream as I was going over the bridge. I decided to check the massive reservoir Barage El Mansour which is a few Km outside Ouarzazate and took one of the turns on the right down to a camping area. This turned out to be disappointing although Great Crested Grebe, Tufted Duck, Pochard, Little Egret and Ruddy Shelduck were recorded.
It was getting near dusk by this time but quite a few more roadside Black & White-Crowned Black Wheatears & Desert Wheatears were recorded on the road to Boulmane du Dades. I reached Boulmane around 10 pm and checked into the Hotel Chems ( Kasbah du Dades ). An Owl was overheard calling late at night from my Hotel Room. It sounded like Tawny Owl but it may have been a Little Owl.
Day 4 ( Wednesday 26th March ) Tagdilt Track
Around 9 am, I set off for the Tagdilt Track which is just outside Boulmane and took the “new” road towards Ikniouin to the point where it merges with the old Tagdilt Track on the right. I soon had Red-Rumped Wheatear and Hoopoe Lark. I parked on the slope overlooking the low dark hills ( as Gosney describes them ) and walked down towards the cultivated area with orchards. I walked past the orchards towards the mud-coloured stone outhouses. Several pairs of Desert Wheatear were present here and a single Hoopoe Lark. A small flock of Cream-Coloured Courser flew overhead. White-Crowned Wheatears were nesting in the outhouses and keeping a look out from the roofs and windows. A Northern Wheatear was also recorded near the outhouses as well as Woodchat Shrike. Looking north towards Boulmane, a distant Short-Toed Eagle was spotted carrying a caught snake.
I scanned the area around the orchards (which is a migrant trap) and turned up a couple of Southern Grey Shrike, Common Redstart, 2 Wryneck, Woodchat Shrike and Thekla Lark. A dark shape passed over me and I looked up to see an impressive Lanner flying directly over.
I walked back up towards the road where there were a group of UK birders in a tourbus scanning a cultivated area which was fenced off. There was a Hoopoe Lark feeding right beside the fence. I returned to this spot later in the afternoon and it proved to be very productive for Temminck’s Horned Lark. There were at least 10 present here and also some Short-toed Larks ( although not the hoped-for Thick-billed Larks). As it grew towards evening, Cream-coloured Coursers became increasingly active and some small flocks of Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew over. A Marsh Harrier was also recorded which seemed strangely out of context in this stony desert area. GPS Coordinates 31.308614, -5.899198
Day 5 (Thursday 27th March) Drive back to Agadir
Another Road Day but one which proved quite productive. After breakfast at the Chems, I went onto the balcony and viewed the resident pair of House Buntings foraging for scraps.
Around El Kelaa M’Gouna, I had a roadside flock of Trumpeter Finches feeding on spilt grain. There is a river near this town which holds a colony of Cattle Egret. There were also many White Stork nesting on the rooftops of the roadside villages.
After passing through Ouarzazate, I stopped at a roadside village called Ait Zenib before the turn to Taznacht which had been really productive in March 2012 with the newly-flooded fields attracting a lot of Yellow Wagtails of different races, Collared Pratincole & Blue-cheeked Bee-eater but the fields were dry this year and consequently, there were no birds.
After passing through Taznacht, I decided to have one more try for Thick-billed Lark and this time met with success. 5 km outside Taznacht ( the location mentioned by Gosney ), there is a turn to the left marked “Tizi” and I stopped here. 3 birds were spotted on the ground right on the turn which looked good in terms of size and mottled colouration. They were Thick-Billed Larks and gave terrific views. Approachable to about 5 metres. They have an interesting white tear drop characteristic on the cheek. GPS Coordinates 30.546737, -7.250558
Between Taznacht and Taliouine, there are some impressive cliffs near a roadside village called Sidi Hsaini/ Tinfat and I stopped and had a scan here. There were about 2 pairs of Raven flying over the cliffs and a distant pale raptor which I initially took to be Booted Eagle but I now think was Egyptian Vulture, since I saw it later on the cliff face disappearing into a crevice. Possibly they are breeding here(?) GPS coordinates 30.466504,-7.784801
I continued towards Agadir and reached the heavily-cultivated Souss Valley as it was getting near dusk. I decided to have a thorough look for Black-Winged Kite here but didn’t really fancy my chances. I scanned suitable-looking pylons and telegraph poles and then to my amazement, I spotted one right above the road on a pole overlooking an orchard. He was gripping it very tight as there was quite a strong wind. I parked nearby but he immediately took off when I exited the car and flew off towards the Souss. This was about 8 Km past a roadside village which I think is called Oulad Teima. 2 more were recorded a few kilometres on, one of which was hovering over an orchard on the left and diving down steeply. This area of road seems to be very productive for Black-winged Kite, especially around the citrus orchards. GPS coordinates 30.373468,-9.283791
This is the road ( N10 ) from Aoulouz to Agadir, i.e the one that runs South of the city of Taroudant. Also recorded along this road were Male Marsh Harrier, Yellow Wagtail, Linnet & Corn Bunting. As I approached Agadir, a Stone Curlew flew across the road right in front of the car.
Target Species Seen
Thick-billed Lark 3 Birds seen very well at the 5 Km marker on the Agadir side of Taznacht ( location mentioned in Gosney guide ). The birds were feeding right at the turn for Tizi which is on the left as you drive out of Taznacht towards Agadir. GPS Coordinates 30.546737, -7.250558
None seen at Tan Tan 100 where I had 3 in March 2012 on the left-hand side of the road. None seen at the Tagdilt Track either, where there was a good-sized flock in March 2012. This is supposed to be a highly nomadic species though.
Temminck’s Horned Lark 5 Birds seen at the Tan Tan 100 Km marker outside of Guelmine. Especially evident at the area of ploughed up ground on the right-hand side of the road ( as you go towards Tan Tan ). GPS Coordinates 28.821026,-10.306334
~10 Birds seen at the Tagdilt Track, especially at the cultivated area which slopes down from the track and is surrounded by a perimeter fence. GPS Coordinates 31.308614, -5.899198
Hoopoe Lark 1 Bird seen at Tan Tan 100 km post outside Guelmine ( right-hand side of the road as you drive towards Tan Tan, about 200 metres from the road ) and another was singing nearby. 3 Birds seen at the Tagdilt Track. One was feeding right beside the perimeter fence surrounding a cultivated area. GPS Coordinates 31.308614, -5.899198
Black-winged Kite 3 Birds seen in the Souss Valley about 8 km past the village of Oulad Teima which is on the newer road that bypasses Taroudant to the South. First one was on the left-hand side of the road ( as you drive towards Agadir ) perched on a telegraph pole overlooking an orchard. Another further on sitting on a pylon and hunting over orchards and a third on the right in flight. GPS Coordinates 30.373468,-9.283791
Cream-coloured Courser Good numbers seen at Tan Tan 100 Km post outside of Guelmine, especially on the left-hand side of the road ( >200 m from the road ). Over 50 Coursers encountered at the Tagdilt Track. GPS Coordinates 28.821026,-10.306334
Desert Wheatear Best numbers encountered at the Tagdilt Track, at the bottom of the slope near the cultivated area with orchards. Several breeding pairs here. Many chance roadside sightings of this species between Taznacht & Boulmane.
White-crowned Wheatear Several pairs present at the Tagdilt Track, especially around the brown stone outhouses which are at the bottom of the slope. Good numbers also seen in the stone desert along the road from Ouarzazare through Skoura & El Kelaa M’Gouna to Boulmane du Dades.
Black Wheatear Good numbers encountered especially along the road towards Taliouine as you start to ascend into the Atlas mountains. Mainly singing from telegraph poles or sitting on the walls of buildings.
Red-rumped Wheatear Several pairs around the Tan Tan 100 km post outside Guelmine, including a female visiting the nest with young. Also several pairs at the Tagdilt Track, with some males doing the awesome boiling kettle song.
Lanner 1 Bird flew straight over my head near the orchards at the bottom of the slope at the Tagdilt Track. In March 2012 I had a superb pair on a roadside telegraph pole 30 km outside of Taznacht as you drive from Taliouine to Taznacht.
Trumpeter Finch Good-sized flock ( ~50 birds ) seen outside of El Kelaa M’Gouna feeding on spilt grain. Not as commonly encountered as in 2012 though
Target Species Not Seen
Scrub Warbler None seen at the reliable Oued Bouhkila site, 10 km South of Guelmine. I had 3 here in March 2012 on the left-hand side of the road.
Bar-tailed Lark Had hoped for this species at Tan Tan 100 but none seen. I had this species here in March 2012 very close to the 100 Km post on the left.
Desert Lark Had this species in 2012 along the road from Boulmane to Skoura in the sloping stone desert type habitat
Moussier’s Redstart None encountered although I had it in 2012 at Oued Massa
Maghreb Wheatear Was hoping to fluke it along the road somewhere between Ouarzazate and Boulmane but none seen.
Lesser Short-toed Lark None seen at suitable locations like Tan Tan 100 or the Tagdilt Track.
Full Species List
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Cattle Egret Bulbulcus ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
Pochard Aythya farina
Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosis
Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus
Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Lanner Falco biarmicus
Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus
Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis
Rock Dove Columba livia
Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
Common Swift Apus apus
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Wryneck Jynx torquilla
Thekla Lark Galerida theklae
Short-toed Lark Calendrella brachydactyla
Thick-billed Lark Ramphocoris clotbey
Temminck’s Horned Lark Eremophila bilopha
Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes
Swallow Hirundo rustica
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus
Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti
Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
White-crowned Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga
Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura
Red-rumped Wheatear Oenanthe moesta
Stonechat Saxicola rubicola
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata
Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans
Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobanus
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor
Magpie Pica pica mauretanica
Raven Corvus corax
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Serin Serinus serinus
Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus
Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra
House Bunting Emberiza striolata