Anne and I travelled to the Canarian Island of Fuerteventura for two weeks birding, sight-seeing and sun. This report chronicles the former, however it must be said that there were few occasions when we didn't have our bins to hand. The attraction to Fuerteventura was the prospect of the endemic Chat and other specialist species found on the island.
For research material we used 'A Birdwatchers' Guide to The Canary Islands' by Tony Clarke and David Collins (C&C), together with a number of trip reports published on the Web. For field clarification issues we carried Collins Bird Guide (Mullarney, Svensson, Zetterstrom & Grant). Having used C&C for a previous trip to Tenerife, we again found the site information invaluable and the species lists for birds, mammals, reptiles, dragonflies and butterflies extremely useful.
We travelled to Fuerteventura by air from Newcastle airport having booked two seats on a Mytravel charter holiday flight. We had a Renault Clio hire car for the duration booked through Worldwide Cars and supplied by Hertz. This was adequate for the terrain. We stayed at the Rural Hotel Era de la Corte near Antigua in the centre of the island. We found the Finca on the internet and booked it direct. It was ideally placed for travelling to all the birding sites recommended in C&C. The Finca had the advantage of a small library available to residents, specialising in Canary Island history, flora and fauna. Also the owner, Senor Andres was extremely knowledgeable and helpful. His wife, Senora Victoria ran the kitchen and the food, mainly Canarian specialities, was delicious.
Fuerteventura has few trees and a reasonably small resident population. We were suprised by the amount of housing under construction, especially around the main holiday centres. We also noted that many (probably 60-70%) of the roads had been recently tarmaced and in some cases bends straightened. In some areas it appeared that a layer of tar had been laid over an existing surface because there was a drop of six to nine inches at the edge of the carriageway so care had to be taken when pulling over in a hurry to check a bird sighting.
Having a fortnight we decided not to race about but to pace ourselves. Fuerteventura does not hold a large bird population so generally sightings had to be worked for. Much of the habitat is open rocky/sandy plains and the car made an excellent hide. In some areas we found disturbance by walkers and sun worshippers trying to find a secluded beach, and as the day wore on the heat-haze increased
We kept daily records and at the end of a relaxing holiday we totalled up and found we had reached 69 species including 4 lifers.
Itinerary Highlights
The garden of our Finca was very productive. Sightings included
Berthelot's Pipit, Hoopoe, Spectacled Warbler, Blue Tit, Blackcap, Common Chiffchaff, Spanish Sparrow, Collared Dove and
Robin. From the grounds (including the pool) and in the adjoining fields additions included
Buzzard, Kestrel, Raven, Redwing, Grey Heron, Trumpeter Finch, Sardinian Warbler, Southern Grey Shrike and
Pallid Swift.
Also at the Finca we saw Monarch, Painted Lady, African Migrant, Greenish black-tip and Red Admiral Butterflies; Emperor Dragonfly; Barbary Ground Squirrel, Eastern Canary Gecko and Haria Lizard.
Thursday 6 November
Our fist outing was to Barranco de la Torre and Salinas del Carmen (C&C site 7). We parked at the white building 3kms from the coast and walked down the track to the Barranco. On the way down we had our first sight of
Barbary Partridge. We crossed through the tamarisk and turned right to where the Barranco narrowed with a rocky cliff close by. In the first 100 yards we had excellent views of five
Fuerteventura Stonechats (3 male and 2 female), the Islands endemic species. Unlike common Stonechat which tends to sit out in the open, we found the birds low on the tamarisk and when flushed tended to fly back into cover.
The salt works and adjoining bay at Salinas del Carmen was a good source for waders with
Whimbrel, Grey Plover, Redshank, Turnstone, Little Ringed Plover, Greenshank, and
Common Sandpiper. Also there were
Berthelot's Pipit, Little Egret, Southern Grey Shrike and
Yellow-legged Gulls.
Friday 7 November
In the afternoon we visited the reservoir at Los Molinos (C&C site 1), approaching from the direction of Las Parcelas. Although not many birds were present, we were treated to views of 5
Ruddy Shelduck, an accidental species which has bred. We also saw
Coot, Common Sandpiper, Redshank, Greenshank and
Yellow-legged Gull before locating an island speciality,
Marbled Duck, another accidental species which has bred. There were 3 Marbled Ducks in the inlet down from the dam sitting on some dead branches. Next to the path back to the car parked above the dam was a pair of
Fuerteventura Stonechats and two
Berthelot's Pipits.
On the way back to Antigua we turned onto the bottom track to the reservoir from the Tefia/Betancuria road. About .9km, just after a dead truck, is a track to the right going up the Plain. Whilst parked in this area we had a
Houbara Bustard fly over the car and land close-by giving stunning views.
Saturday 8 November
We visited La Oliva and decided to check out the dry plains to the northwest. The road has been changed and it is now necessary to turn left up and over a bank opposite the last house on the right. This I suspect to be the old road because after 200 yards we could see the old road bending to the right and a track going straight on. We took this track, went past the cultivations at Rosa de los Negrines and drove up onto the Plain. In an hour's scanning we had three
Houbara Bustards and a mixed flock of 40
Linnet and
Lesser Short-toed Lark. A check of the cultivations on our return revealed 5
Hoopoe, 3
Corn Bunting, Spanish Sparrow and
Raven.
We ended the day by driving down to Playa de Lajas where we had
Sanderling, Kentish Plover, Little Ringed Plover, Common Sandpiper, Turnstone, Yellow-legged Gulls and a single
Gull-billed Tern.
Monday 10 November
We spent the day at El Cotillo (C&C site 2). Firstly we checked the Plains to the south of the town. We found the most productive area to be about 4kn from El Cotillo where the track turns left away from the coast just before an obvious small stone building shell. We used the car as a hide and next to the track we came across both
Black-bellied Sandgrouse and
Cream-coloured Courser. Whilst the Sandgrouse took flight and moved further away, the Coursers were not as nervous and we had excellent close views.
North of El Cotillo to the lighthouse are a number of bays. We encountered the difficulty factor with binoculars and nude sun-worshippers but did find our first genuine
Rock Doves near the lighthouse.
Back at the Finca after dinner we heard a
Long-eared Owl calling. Whilst not on the list for Fuerteventura, Senor Andres told us that they used some nearby tall Palm Trees. Although we did scan over the rest of the holiday we failed to see them but did hear them again.
Tuesday 11 November
In the morning we visited Catalina Garcia (C&C site 5). We found it to be the best inland water site. Along the track to the lagoon we found a
Fieldfare, an accidental visitor, on an exposed branch of a Palm tree. The bird looked uncomfortable and hot. It's wings were raised away from it's body and it was panting with it's bill open.
At the lagoon we had
Little Egret, Spotted Redshank, Snipe, Black-winged Stilt, Ruddy Shelduck, Teal, Garganey, Coot, Kentish Plover and
Little Ringed Plover, whilst nearby there was
Berthelot's Pipit, Spectacled Warbler and
Southern Grey Shrike.
We then drove to Gran Tarajal and had two
House Martins around the seafront buildings.
We finished the day at Salinas del Carmen. We added
Sandwich Tern, Black-headed Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull and
Grey Plover to the list before scanning the sea. There was a very strong onshore northeasterly wind. Some yachts were sailing close to the land and nearby there was 8
Cory's Shearwaters.
Wednesday 12 November
C&C site 4 at Las Penitas was the target for the day. Unfortunately the lagoon was dry and there was disturbance with cyclists and walkers crossing the dried-up bed. We did, however, see
Raven, Spectacled Warbler, Berthalot's Pipit and
Blue Tit. Also adding to the list
Black Redstart.
The views along the road to Pajara were spectacular and at the viewpoint we saw Barbary Ground Squirrels feeding from the hand and more
Berthelot's Pipits looking for crumbs. We also saw another
Barbary Partridge and
Fuerteventura Stonechat.
Friday 14 November
In the morning we visited the Botanical Gardens at La Lajita which hold a wonderful display of cacti plants from all over the world. We got a surprise when we found a
Laughing Dove as this species is not on the C&C Full Species List. On checking other trip reports, Laughing Dove is recorded in February and December 2002 with 8 birds and presumed to be a new colonist from Morocco. We again saw
Fuerteventura Stonechat and
Berthelot's Pipit.
We then went to La Pared Plain (C&C site 6) where a couple of hours scanning produced a flock of 23
Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Hoopoe, Raven, Southern Grey Shrike, Kestrel and our only
Barbary Falcon of the trip.
We returned from La Pared on the Pajara road. The mountain scenery was spectacular. In Pajara we came across a pair of
Ring-necked Parakeet.
Saturday 15 November
Another visit to Catalina Garcia turned up some new birds, the best of which was two
Ring-necked Duck, another accidental species and an American vagrant. We also added to the list
Wigeon, and
Pintail.
Sunday 16 November
In the morning we visited Pozo Negro. Checking the cliffs to the south of the bay we saw a pair of
Peregrine Falcon and four
Rock Doves. Then on to Salidas del Carmen where, in addition to the normal cast of waders, we found a flock of 12
Trumpeter Finch
Monday 17 November
A return visit to El Cotillo. On the Plain to the south we found 22
Black-bellied Sandgrouse in groups, the largest being of seven birds. To the north on the beach near a hotel building site we found a flock of 30
Trumpeter Finch and a
Common Stonechat.
On the return journey to Antigua just before dusk we called at the Tefia track to Los Molinos and were treated to fantastic views of a displaying male
Houbara Bustard, 12
Lesser Short-toed Larks and a male
Fuerteventura Stonechat.
Tuesday 18 November
For our last full day we revisited Catalina Garcia. The
Ring-necked Ducks were still present, three
Buzzard circled overhead and we added
White Wagtail to the list.
On the road between Pajara and Las Penitas we saw
Buzzard and
Egyptian Vultures. At the viewpoint
Ravens joined the Barbary Ground Squirrels and
Berthelot's Pipits taking food from the tourists! We also had a party of 5
Barbary Partridge on the road in front of us as we rounded a bend.
A final check of the fields opposite the Finca produced the last new bird of the trip, a group of three
Redwing.
Species Lists
Cory's Shearwater Calonectris diomedea borealis (Macaronesia subspecies) 8 off Salinas del Carmen on 11th
Little Egret Egretta garzetta Widespread around the coast and seen on all visits to Catalina Garcia. Highest count was three birds on 11th and 13th at Salinas del Carmen.
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Single birds seen on most days both at the coast and inland.
Wigeon Anas Penelope Catalina Garcia - 4 on 11th, 2 on 15th and 3 on 18th
Teal Anas crecca Catalina Garcia - 8 on 11th, 12 on 15th and 17 on 18th
Garganey Anas querquedula Catalina Garcia - 2 on 11th
Pintail Anas acuta Catalina Garcia - 1 on 15th
Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris Catalina Garcia - 2 on 15th and 18th
Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris Los Molinos - 3 on 7th
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea 5 at Los Molinos on 7th. 2 at Catalina Garcia on 11th and 15th
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus 2 between Pajara and Las Penitas, and 1 at Las Penitas on 18th
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo insularum (Canary Islands subspecies) Seen regularly inland. Highest counts: 3 over the Finca at La Corte on 9th. 3 over Catalina Garcia on 18th
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus dacotiae (Canary Islands subspecies) At least 2 or 3 seen every day. Highest count was 6 on 11th
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 2 at Pozo Negro on 16th
Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides 1 at La Pared on 14th
Barbary Partridge Alectoris Barbara 1 at Barranco de la Torre on 6th. 9 at Barranco de las Penitas on 12th. 5 on road near Vega de Rio Palma on 18th
Coot Fulica atra 12 at Los Molinos on 7th. 12 at Catalina Garcia on 11th, 15th and 18th
Houbara Bustard Chlamydotis undulata fuertaventurae (Canary Islands subspecies) 1 at Los Molinos on 7th and 17th. 3 at La Pared on 8th
Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius curson bannermani (Canary Islands subspecies) 3 at El Cotillo on 10th
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Catalina Garcia - 2 on 11th, 3 on 15th and 2 on 18th
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Seen regularly at Catalina Garcia and Salinas del Carmen. High count 8 at Salinas del Carmen on 11th
Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Seen regularly at Catalina Garcia and Salinas del Carmen. High count 8 at Salinas del Carmen on 16th
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus 1 at Playa de Lajas on 8th. 2 at Catalina Garcia on 11th. 4 at Salinas del Carmen on 13th. 2 at Salinas del Carmen on 16th
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Salinas del Carmen - 6 on 6th, 6 on 11th, 3 on 13th and 4 on 16th
Sanderling Calidris alba 1 at Playa de Lajas on 8th
Dunlin Calidris alpina Salinas del Carmen - 4 on 6th, 4 on 13th and 3 on 16th
Snipe Gallinago gallinago 3 at Catalina Garcia on 11th, 15th and 18th
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Salinas del Carmen - 1 on 6th, 2 on 11th and 2 on 16th. 1 at El Cotillo on 17th
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 1 at Catalina Garcia on 11th, 15th and 18th
Redshank Tringa totanus Salinas del Carmen - 4 on 6th, 1 on 11th, 1 on 13th and 1 on 16th. 1 at Los Molinos Reservoir on 7th
Greenshank Tringa nebularia 2 at Salinas del Carmen on 6th. 5 at Los Molinos Reservoir on 7th. 1 at Catalina Garcia on 15th and 18th
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 at Los Molinos Reservoir on 7th. 1 at Playa de Lajas on 8th. 1 at Catalina Garcia on 11th. 1 at Salinas del Carmen on 13th and 16th. 1 at El Cotillo on 17th. 1 at La Corte on 18th
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Seen regularly around the coast. High count 9 at Salinas del Carmen on 11th
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus 2 at Salinas del Carmen on 11th
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Seen in ones and twos around the coast but a flock of 32 went over La Corte on 15th
Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans atlantis Good numbers around the coast. High count 50 at Playa de Lajas on 8th
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica 1 off Playa de Lajas on 8th
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis Seen in most coastal bays. High count 8 at Salinas del Carmen on 11th
Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis El Cotillo Plain - 6 on 10th and 22 on 17th. La Pared Plain - 23 on 14th
Feral Pigeon Columba livia (domest.) Abundant and widespread. Largest flock - 50 at Gran Tarajal on 11th
Rock Dove Columba livia 4 at El Cotillo on 10th. 2 at Barranco de las Penitas on 12th. 2 at La Lajita on 14th. 4 at Pozo Negro on 16th. 6 at Vega de Rio Palma on 18th
Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Seen daily throughout the Island
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 1 at La Lajita on 14th
Ring-necked Parakeet Psitacula krameri 2 at Pajara on 14th
Long-eared Owl Asio otus Heard from the Finca at La Corte on 10th. Advised by the owner that they roost in the Palm Trees nearby. Searched for but not located.
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus 3 over the Finca at La Corte on 9th
Hoopoe Upupa epops Seen almost daily at La Corte. Largest count 5 at the Rosa de los Negrines cultivations on 8th
Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens polatzeki (Canary Islands subspecies) 20 at La Oliva Plain on 8th. 10 at El Cotillo Plain on 10th. 12 at Tefia Plain (Los Molinos) on 17th
House Martin Delichon urbica 2 at Gran Tarajal around the seafront buildings on 11th
Berthelot's Pipit Anthus berthelotii (Macaronesia endemic and Canary Islands subspecies) Widespread in all habitats. Often very confiding. Highest count 6 at Las Penitas viewpoint on 12th and at Catalina Garcia on 18th
White Wagtail Motacilla alba 1 at Catalina Garcia on 18th
Robin Erithacus rubecula 1 in the Finca garden at La Corte on 9th
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 1 at Vega de Rio Palmas on 12th
Fuerteventura Stonechat Saxicola dacotiae (Fuerteventura endemic) 5 at Barranco de la Torre on 6th. 2 at Los Molinos Reservoir on 7th. 1 at Las Penitas viewpoint on 12th. 1 on roadside between La Pared and Pajara on 14th. 1 at Tefia Plain (Los Molinos) on 17th
Stonechat Saxicola torquata 1 at roadside near Tuineje (K31 post on Antigua Road) on 15th. 1 at El Cotillo on 17th
Redwing Turdus iliacus 3 in fields opposite Finca at La Corte on 18th
Fieldfare Turdus pilaris 1 at Catalina Garcia on 11th
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis (Canary Islands subspecies) Widespread and seen regularly. Highest count - 5 at La Corte on 5th
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 2 on 5th and 1 on 9th at La Corte. 1 on 12th at Vega de Rio Palmas. 2 on 14th at Pajara
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla La Corte - 6 on 9th, 2 on 13th and 2 on 19th. 2 at La Pajara on 14th
Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Seen regularly around the Finca at La Corte. High count 4 on 6th and 16th
Blue Tit Parus caeruleus degener (Fuerteventura and Lanzarote subspecies) A pair seen most days around the Finca at La Corte. 2 at Vega de Rio Palma on 12th
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor koenigi (Canary Islands subspecies) Seen almost daily around the Island, mainly in pairs
Raven Corvus corax tingitanus Abundant and widespread. Seen daily in good numbers.
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis abundant and widespread. Seen daily in good numbers.
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 1 at La Corte on 7th and 9th. 1 at Pajara on 14th
Linnet Carduelis cannabina harterti (Fuerteventura and Lanzarote subspecies) 20 at La Oliva Plain on 8th. La Corte - 1 on 10th and 2 on 15th
Trumpeter Finch Budanetes githagineus amantum (Canary Islands subspecies) 2 on 6th at Los Alares. 4 on 10th and 30 on 17th at El Cotillo. 6 on 11th and 12 on 16th at Salinas del Carmen. 2 on 14th at roadside between La Pared and Pajara. 12 on 18th at La Corte
Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra 3 on 8th at the Rosa de los Negrines cultivations
BUTTERFLIES
Monarch Danaus plexippus
Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus
Red Admiral Vanessa Atlanta
Painted Lady Cynthia cardui
Canary Island Brimstone Gonopteryx Cleopatra
Greenish Black-tip Elphinstonia charlonia
African Migrant Catopsilia florella
DRAGONFLIES
Emperor Dragonfly Anax imperator
Scarlet Darter Crocothemis erythraea
Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombei
REPTILES
Haria Lizard Galiotia atlantica
Eastern Canary Gecko Tarentola angustimentalis
MAMMALS
Barbary Ground Squirrel Atlantoxerus getulus
Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus
Algerian Hedgehog (road casualty) Atelerix algirus
