I just returned from a family vacation to the Quito – Tandayapa – Otavalo area of northwestern Ecuador and found plenty of time for birding while enjoying the vibrant Ecuadorian culture, delicious food, charming people, and beautiful scenery. The trip produced 127 species including 23 hummingbirds and 17 tanagers. We arrived at the new (very modern) Quito airport around 11:00 pm on June 18 and by midnight we were at our first destination - San Jorge Eco-lodge in the Pichincha foothills above Quito near 9500 feet elevation. The cozy lodge serves delicious four course meals (appetizer, soup, main course, and dessert) for lunch and dinner. Breakfast included exotic fruits, juices, coffee or tea, and a main course. The lodge grounds are planted with many native shrubs, trees, and herbs that attract a variety of birds, and a cobblestone pathway meandering through the property provides easy access to viewing areas. The shrubby hillside above the lodge is accessed by a grassy trail. The lodge patio has several hummingbird feeders that were dominated by Shining Sunbeams and Sparkling Violetears. Smaller hummingbirds dart in at opportune moments but are soon chased away by one of these two species. I birded these areas on the mornings of June 19 and 20 from 6:30 to 8:30 each day and recorded the following species.
1) Variable Hawk – one perched in the ubiquitous non-native eucalyptus surrounding the
property.
2) Rock Pigeon – a few small flocks in Barrio San Jose Obrero just below the lodge.
3) Eared Dove – common the lodge grounds.
4) Green Violetear – rare at feeders.
5) Sparkling Violetear – abundant at feeders and on grounds.
6) Shining Sunbeam - abundant at feeders.
7) Sword-billed Hummingbird – one at about 6:45 am on the first morning and not seen again. It was tending one of the numerous Brugmansia sanguinea planted on the property.
8) Black-tailed Trainbearer – not observed at feeders but seen numerous times in the patio area and on the grounds.
9) Green-tailed Trainbearer – one, perched near a rose bush on the hillside just above the patio.
10) Tyrian Metaltail – fairly common at feeders not being used by Sunbeams and Violetears.
11) White-bellied Woodstar – surprisingly, only slightly less common than Tyrian Metaltail.
12) Streak-throated Bush-tyrant – one seen both days perched on tile roof of lodge.
13) Great Thrush – very common on lodge grounds.
14) Cinereous Conebill – one, on hillside above lodge.
15) Black Flowerpiercer – fairly common on lodge grounds.
16) Rufous-collared Sparrow – common on lodge grounds.
On the morning of June 21 we made the 1.5 hour drive to the San Jorge Eco-lodge in the Tandayapa Valley. Located in cloud forest at 5575 feet elevation it was the most diverse bird area that we visited. As at San Jorge Quito, the accommodations were very comfortable. Our room had large windows that provided stunning panoramic views of the surrounding pristine cloud forest. At night, the hillsides twinkled with the glow of lighting bugs. The four course meals were delicious and served within view of hummingbird and tanager feeders. After dark, during dinner, the tanager feeders were visited by a Kinkajou and two Olingos. Many miles of well-maintained trails lead from the lodge through the cloud forest, and occasionally, more open meadow areas. Two roofed overlooks provide stunning views of Tandayapa Valley and canopy birds. I birded these areas from 10:30 to 1:00 and 3:30 to 6:00 on June 21 from 6:30 to 8:30 am on June 22 producing the following results.
17) Turkey Vulture – a few soring near lodge.
18) Barred Hawk – one perched in tree along entrance road.
19) Collared Forest Falcon – one perched in tree in cloud forest.
20) Sickle-winged Guan – two in canopy at overlook two.
21) Band-tailed Pigeon – fairly common in cloud forest.
22) Plumbeous Pigeon – three individuals in cloud forest.
23) White-throated Quail Dove – three together on trail near lodge (seen both days).
24) Red-billed Parrot – three flocks of up to eight birds in open areas along cloud forest
trails.
25) White-capped Parrot – one large flock at overlook two.
26) Squirrel Cuckoo – one in cloud forest.
27) Lyre-tailed Nightjar – one female perched on side of road cut (soil wall) along entrance road. This was the first bird seen at Tandayapa and was too close to focus on with my binoculars. It remained on the perch even as we drove away.
28) Tawny-bellied Hermit – One on heliconia in cloud forest. The only hummingbird that was
never seen at the feeders.
29) White-necked Jacobin – common at feeders.
30) Brown Violetear – common at feeders.
Green Violetear – common at feeders.
31) Western Emerald – uncommon at feeders.
32) Rufous-tailed Hummingbird – common at feeders.
33) Andean Emerald – common at feeders.
34) Purple-bibbed Whitetip – uncommon at feeders.
35) Green-crowned Brilliant – uncommon at feeders.
36) Fawn-breasted Brilliant – rare at feeders.
37) Buff-tailed Coronet – uncommon at feeders.
38) Booted Racket-tail – common at feeders.
39) Purple-throated Woodstar – common at feeders.
40) Golden-headed Quetzal – two in cloud forest (one male, one female).
41) Rufous Motmot – one in cloud forest.
42) Red-headed Barbet – several (male and female) at feeders (see images).
43) Toucan Barbet – several heard but never seen (they were always higher on the mountain than I was).
44) Crimson-rumped Toucanet – at least two at feeders and one in cloud forest (see image).
45) Pale-mandibled Aracari – at least one at feeder (see image).
46) Smoky-brown Woodpecker – one, at overlook two.
47) Red-faced Spinetail – one, in small tree in meadow area along entrance road.
48) Streaked-capped Treehunter – at least one in shrubs near lodge (see both days).
49) Montane Woodcreeper – one, in cloud forest.
50) Narino Tapaculo – seen as shadowy figure near ground in dense cloud forest (determined by voice).
51) White-throated Spadebill – two, together in low branches of cloud forest.
52) Ornate Flycatcher – two, in dense cloud forest and at forest edge near meadow.
53) Flavescent Flycatcher – one, in cloud frorest.
54) Black Phoebe – one, along entrance road.
55) Golden-crowned flycatcher – by voice a few times and possibly one glimpse (view of head blocked by moth held in beak).
56) Black and White Becard – one, at overlook one.
57) Scaled Fruiteater – one, at overlook one.
58) Andean Cock-of-the Rock – a few heard when flushed along cloud forest trails and one
fleeting glimpse of a crimson-orange flash.
59) Ecuadorian Thrush – Three, along entrance road.
60) Blue and White Swallow – abundant near lodge.
61) Southern Rough-winged Swallow – rare near lodge, one perched on roof just outside window.
62) Tropical Parula – three, in cloud forest canopy.
63) Slate-throated Whitestart – common in small trees around open areas near lodge and in
dense cloud forest.
64) Three-striped warbler – two, in cloud forest.
65) White-sided Flowerpiercer – uncommon near feeders and in small trees along entrance road.
66) Thick-billed Euphonia – common at feeders (male and female).
67) Golden-rumped Euphonia – one male in small tree in meadow area surrounded by cloud forest.
68) Orange-bellied Euphonia – at least one pair at feeder.
69) Golden Tanager – common at feeders and in cloud forest (see image).
70) Silver-throated Tanager – uncommon at feeder.
71) Flame-faced Tanager – common at feeder and around lodge.
72) Golden-naped Tanager – common at feeder and around lodge (see image).
73) Metallic-green Tanager – uncommon at feeder and in cloud forest.
74) Beryl-spangled Tanager – rare in cloud forest – never came to feeder.
75) Black-capped Tanager – at least one female at feeder.
76) Blue-winged Mountain Tanager – common at feeder (see image).
77) Blue-gray Tanager – uncommon at feeder.
78) Palm Tanager – uncommon at feeder.
79) Blue-capped Tanager – two at feeder.
80) Lemon-rumped Tanager – abundant at feeder and in open areas around lodge.
81) White-lined Tanager – one pair at feeder.
82) Black-winged Saltator – one at cloud forest edge and one in canopy at overlook one.
83) Yellow-bellied Seedeater – uncommon in meadow areas around lodge.
84) Tricolored Brush-finch – four individuals in shrubs along trails near lodge (one climbing tree trunk).
85) White-winged Brush-finch – one, in ravine in deep cloud forest.
86) Chestnut-capped Brush-finch – one, in shrubs near lodge.
Rufous-collared Sparrow – around lodge.
87) Lesser (dark-backed) Goldfinch – one in open meadow area surrounded by cloud forest.
On June 23 we drove three hours from Tandayapa to Otavalo and moved into Las Palmaras Guest House for a six night stay at an elevation of 8500 feet. The comfortable accommodations at Las Palmaras gave us easy access to the colorful markets and indigenous groups in the town of Otavalo. Being the week of the summer solstice, we happened upon many parades and other celebrations in the small pueblos around Otavalo and well as near the central market (which is the largest in Ecuador). Prior to this trip, all the guide books that I read referred to Otavalo as “not a birding area.” I found this to be far from the truth. Although certainly not as diverse as cloud forest or rainforest areas of Ecuador, many species not seen previously on this trip were found near Otavalo, including stunning, simultaneous views of Andean Condor and Ecuadorian Hillstar and the first northern Ecuadorian record for Mountain Caracara.
On the grounds of Las Palmaras I found:
88) Cattle Egret – flocks often observed flying overhead.
89) Harris Hawk – one soaring overhead.
90) American Kestrel – perched in eucalyptus tree. Observed daily on the same branch.
Rock Pigeon – a few flying in the distance.
Eared Dove – common on grounds.
Sparkling Violetear – very common on grounds.
Black-tailed Trainbearer – common on grounds. More common here than in Quito.
91) Tufted Tit-Tyrant – uncommon on the grounds in small trees (pine and deciduous).
92) Smoke-colored Pewee – one, in tree.
93) Brown-backed Chat-tyrant – one, in small tree (a fortunate find at this low elevation).
Great Thrush – common on grounds.
94) Brown-bellied Swallow – occasionally in flocks of Blue and White Swallows.
Blue and White Swallow – very common on grounds.
Cinereous Conebill – uncommon on grounds.
95) Blue and Yellow Tanager – one male and 2 females during the week.
96) Southern Yellow-Grosbeak – males and females observed daily.
97) Band-tailed Seedeater – one male, at edge of property.
98) Ash-breasted Sierra-finch – at least one, seen on two days singing from power line.
Rufous-collared sparrow – common on grounds.
99) Andean Siskin – one, in pine tree. Well seen in good light. Very few Ecuadorian records. Black on head restricted to cap.
On a day trip to Lago San Pablo, a few minutes’ drive from Otavalo, to visit an indigenous weaver who still spins his own thread and uses native plants to dye sheep and alpaca wool, I added the following species.
100) Andean Coot – one at lake edge. Seen from car.
101) Vermillion Flycatcher – One seen in small fallow agricultural field. Seen from car.
On a day trip to Taxopamba Waterfall, a few minutes’ drive from Las Palmaras, and about a twenty minute hike from the road to the falls, I added two additional species. The trail follows a ravine with substantial native bamboo and could be productive for additional species earlier in the morning.
102) Torrent Tyrannulet – two, foraging in waterfall.
103) Plain-tailed Wren – two, in bamboo stand near waterfall.
On the last day of the trip I followed the cobblestone road above Taxopamba Waterfall hoping to reach Paramo habitat. The road is in good shape and the drive only took about half an hour from Las Palmaras. Eventually, the cobblestone gives way to a dirt road at about 12,000 feet elevation along the shore of Laguna de Mojanda. The scenery here is breathtaking, the birds abundant, and this little known birding area was for me one of the highlights of our trip to Ecuador. I arrived at approximately 7:00 am. The first bird seen upon reaching the lake was a Mountain Caracara. I watched it for nearly two minutes walking along the lake shore and for about another minute as it flew westward along the shore. This is the first known record for Mountain Caracara in northern Ecuador and the northern most record in the species range. The bird was also seen by Washington Villamarin (otavalospanish@hotmail.com). The red face, solid black breast and sharply delimited white belly make the species unmistakable. Walking along the dirt road which follows the lake shore I also found the following species.
104) Andean Condor – two, circling in front of the tall peak at the western end of the lake.
105) Mountain Caracara – one, observed walking along lake shore and while flying away.
106) Andean Snipe – heard once but never seen.
107) Ecuadorian Hillstar – one male, on small patch of Chuquiragua insignis near lake.
108) Bar-winged Cinciodes – common.
109) Andean Tit-Spinetail – two, in low shrubs.
110) Tawny Antpitta – one, running along edge of dirt road.
111) Black-billed Shrike-tyrant – two, perched in open on top of small shrubs.
Great Thrush – common.
Brown-bellied Swallow – a few.
112) Grass Wren – common by voice, one well seen in open perched on herb stalk.
113) Paramo Pipit – five, walking along lake shore picking through beach drift.
Cinereous Conebill – common.
Black Flowerpiercer – three.
114) Plain-colored Seedeater – two, male and female on dirt wall of road cut.
115) Plumbeous Sierra Finch – abundant.
On the drive back, at approximately 10:00, I stopped at about every 500 feet drop in elevation and birded for five to ten minutes at each site. Most of the roadside above Taxopamba Waterfall has diverse native vegetation on both sides and the birding was amazing. I found the following species along this road.
116) Andean / Bearded Guan – three or four birds flushed from tree tops at crest of slope. Only one was well seen. As it turned, it spread its tail to show a distinct terminal tail band
indicating Bearded Guan. Bearded Guan is supposed to be extirpated from northern Ecuador, but Mountain Caracara is not supposed to be here either. The birds were rather distant and it is possible that the band was a weird refraction of light as the bird turned in flight, however a thorough survey of this protected area is warranted.
Band-tailed Pigeon – one, perched in tree.
117) Great Sapphirewing – one female hovered in front of my face while I stood in the middle of the road - a huge hummer.
118) Sapphire-vented Puffleg – three, tending flowers and perched.
Tyrian Metaltail – fairly common.
119) Crimson-mantled Woodpecker – heard, the only possible woodpecker at this elevation.
120) White-crested Elaenia – common.
121) Red-crested Cotinga – four, perched in bare tree tops.
Great Thrush – common.
Brown-bellied Swallow – rare.
Blue and White Swallow – common.
122) Masked Flowerpiercer – very common.
123) Glossy Flowerpiercer – two, in shrubs at roadside.
Black Flowerpiercer – at least six.
124) Blue and Black Tanager – one, in tree at roadside.
125) Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager – three small flocks.
126) Hooded Mountain Tanager – one, flew across road and landed in shrubs at roadside.
127) Rufous-naped Brush-finch – five along roadside.
Rufous-collared Sparrow – common.