“THERE, AND BACK AGAIN”
Special Note: This is an incomplete Trip report from the Everest Region of Nepal; from Jiri to the Gokyo Lakes in eastern Nepal, undertaken in January of 2010. My account from Namche Bazarr to the Gokyo Lakes has probably been thrown in the dustbin.
INTRODUCTION
In January of 2010, I began an 88 day birding journey in Nepal. There are 3 main trekking areas in Nepal that are open (pre- Major Earthquake) to independent trekkers on a rock bottom budget; Everest/Gokyo in the East, Annapurna in the West and Helambu/Langtang in the Center. There are many other trekking opportunities in Nepal, but at the moment they are generally group orientated, require throngs of porters and involve tents.
This trip report deals with the 22 days spent on the Everest/ Gokyo Lakes trek. On this trip I went on my own, without guide nor porter, and 8 kilos in my backpack. I stayed in simple lodges and ate simple meals supplied by friendly people.
Note: I have been told that of September 2012, independent trekking is no longer allowed in Nepal and Guides are Mandatory. This may not be true.
I hiked the Classic route, starting from the village of Jiri, passing through Namche Bazaar and then into the Gokyo Lakes Valley, but not the Everest Base Camp / Khumbu valley. Then, like a proper nutter, I hiked all the way back along the same route. On a previous visit to this area in May of 2008, I hiked into the Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp, and I mention birds seen on that trek in this report.
There is not a species list attached to this report, but I do mention notable sightings in my Daily Journal. Including; Monal, Blood Pheasant, Tibetan Snowcock, White-throated Dipper, Ibisbill, Black-throated Parrotbills P. humii (now split?), Rufous-capped Babblers, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Gold-naped Finch, Red Crossbill, Brown Accentor, Horned Lark, Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker, White-winged Redstart.
GETTING STARTED & DAILY BUDGET
Most people fly in and out of Lukla, which I have done on previous occasions, in a 20 seater plane from Kathmandu. If you do decide to fly in and out of Lukla, it is highly recommended to head south first to spend 3-4 days hiking down through the villages of Bupsa to Surke for the best forest on the entire trek. Between Lukla to Namche, most of the trees have disappeared and been replaced by lodges.
I used a “Lonely Planet” Trekking guide and the excellent Feild Guide “Birds of Nepal” by R.Grimmett and Carol and Tim Inskipp. (Recently updated September 2016...Buy it today online or it may now be available in bookshops in Kathmandu.)
My daily budget was under US$20/day for meals, lodges, Snickers bars. You will need to buy various permits in Kathmandu before starting. Everest Park Entry (1000rps) and T.I.M.S.($20) Fees Subject to extreme change.
DAILY JOURNAL
15 February – Kathmandu to Jiri by 8 hour minibus (495rps). I spent a few hours wandering around east of Jiri. KALIJ PHEASANT female. 20 species today
16 February – Jiri (1955 Meters ASL) to Shivalaya (1770 M) via the Chitre Pass (2335 M). UPLAND PIPIT and a flock of COMMON WOOD PIGEON before the pass, BROWN-FRONTED WOODPECKER male and EURASION TREECREEPER on the more “wooded yet still cultivated” descent. Shivalaya to Deurali (2700 M) was a 1000 meter ascent, the last section a rhododendron forest which contained both FIRE-TAILED and GREEN-TAILED SUNBIRDS, BAR-THROATED MINLA, and ORANGESIDED BUSH ROBIN. Among the WARBLERS; ASHY-THROATED, ORANGE(BUFF)-BARRED, GRAYHOODED AND LEMON-RUMPED. 53 species today
17 February – A long descent from Deurali (2700 M) to Bandar (2100 M) for GREEN SHRIKEBABBLER, SPOT-WINGED ROSEFINCHES and ASIAN HOUSE MARTINS. To Kinja (1600 M) for NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN. In April 2008 I saw HILL(now BLACK-THROATED) PRINIA, but only STRIATED PRINIA today. Nearly a 1000 meter ascent through cultivation to Sete (2550 M) for a variety of raptors including BONELLI'S EAGLE and STEPPE EAGLE. 53 species today.
18 February – A good mixture of birds around Sete in the morning, and a COLLARED OWLET heard. Terribly busy with fully loaded “donkey trains” towards the Lamjura La Pass (3550 M) but managed to see PLAIN-BACKED THRUSH, SPOTTED NUTCRACKER, WHITE-BROWED BUSH ROBIN and a variety of Tits. From the Pass down through lovely mixed forest to Junbesi (2700 M) LONG-BILLED THRUSH, SPOTTED LAUGHINGTHRUSHES and about 50 PLAIN MOUNTIAN FINCH in a clearing. 46 species today
19 February – A WINTER WREN sang to me whilst eating my porridge in Junbesi, and on the hike through coniferous forest to Ringmo were DARJEELING WOODPECKER male and SCALY-BELLIED WOODPECKER female. A group of RED CROSSBILL near Phurteng (2900 M). Across the Taksindu Pass (3050 M) I encountered SPOTTED LAUGHINGTHRUSH then GOLDCREST in a 7 species bird wave. The best habitat was on the descent to Nunthala (2300 M) SCALY LAUGHINGTHRUSH, PLAIN-BACKED THRUSH and then a group of 20 BLACK-THROATED PARROTBILLS in some bamboo. These Parrotbills were the eastern subspecies with red head rather than western species with gray head, which may now be a full split. 48 species today
20 February – Leaving Nunthala through much secondary growth were 3 groups of RUFOUS-CAPPED BABBLERS and many Warblers and Tits as the altitude dropped to the Dudh Kosi River Bridge (1500 m). Male CRESTED BUNTING, BROWN DIPPER, SPECKLED PICULET, BLACK-EARED SHRIKE BABBLER and groups of HIMALAYAN YELLOW-BREASTED GREENFINCH and PLAIN MOUNTIAN FINCH(?) Long hike up to Bupsa (2350 M). 60 species today
Lodge Poster: Never spend your life reasoning on the past, complaining of the future and fearing the future.
Lodge Poster: You're Damned if you Do, You're Damned if you Don't.
21 February – From Bupsa through great forest for FIRE-TAILED MYZORNIS on three occasions and then RUFOUS-CAPPED BABBLERS in some scrub before the Kari La Pass (3150 M). Icy conditions through bamboo stands and some forest to the Chutok (paiya) La Pass (2950 M) but not many species seen in winter. Down to Surke (2300 M) had a bit more activity; GOLD-NAPED FINCH female and a group of 6 FIRE-TAILED MYZORNIS in secondary/ rhodendron scrub. SPOT-WINGED ROSEFINCHES, HOARY-THROATED BARWING(4), GREEN SHRIKEBABBLER(5), WHITE-BROWED BUSH ROBIN female and 3 Woodpeckers heard but not seen. 49 species today
22 February – Surke to Jorsale (2850 M) Many guesthouses along this route, with forests diminishing. Tits, Warblers, Fulvettas, Yuhinas and Rosefinches. RED-BILLED CHOUGH. 41 species today
23 February – From Jorsale a short hike up to Namche Bazaar (3450 M) in the morning for 4 species of LAUGHINGTHRUSHES; BLACK-FACED, RED-HEADED, STREAKED and SPOTTED. After lunch a walk around Namche before a 2 pm snowstorm. WHITE-WINGED GROSBEAK, WALLCREEPER, GOLDEN EAGLE and spectacular view of a male MONAL. 21 species today
24 February – Rest day in Namche. YELLOW-BILLED (ALPINE) CHOUGH and DARK-THROATED THRUSH. I think I ate more chocolate bars than recorded birds. 13 species today
25 February - Quite a few birds on the walk out from Namche, including 5 MONALS(3 male, 2 female) and 2 groups of BLOOD PHEASANT (15 plus 20). Decent mixed habitat on the way to Dole (4100 M) but few birds in winter. 25 species today.