Dave & Jacquie Bridges, Kath & Mick Claydon (kandm.claydon@gmail.com )
Uganda is often overlooked as an east African destination but with its vast variety of birds, plenty of mammals and much other wildlife, it was high on our list of “must-do” destinations. We spent hours reading trip reports, talking to friends who had already visited as well as discussing a tailor-made tour with some travel operators at the Bird Fair, including Kalema Livingstone (known as Livingstone), of Livingstone African Safaris, www.tours-uganda.com Having met him three years running at the Bird Fair we got to know Livingstone well and it didn’t take long to agree on a 19-day trip that covered exactly what we wanted: slow-paced, spending 2-4 days in the main locations, allowing time to enjoy all wildlife.
Everything was well organised and ran very smoothly, from arrival at Entebbe, to Mbamba swamp on Lake Victoria, Mabira, the forests and savannas of Murchison Falls National Park, along the western Rift Valley to Kibale, Queen Elizabeth National Park and finally to Lake Mburo National Park. We travelled in a Toyota Land Cruiser customised for safari use, and very comfortable it was, too. Livingstone is an excellent guide whose experience, knowledge, professionalism and interpersonal skills are second to none. His sharpness at picking up birds and mammals is impressive; he is also very good company with his enthusiasm lasting through each day. Accommodation throughout was excellent, food was of a high standard and specialist diets were catered for. The choice of picnic lunches provided by lodges were all very tasty and invariably included a goodie or two. Livingstone bought fruit at roadside markets, notably very sweet pineapples and mangos, which were most welcome in the afternoons. Staff at all lodges were friendly, polite and professional; nothing ever seemed too much trouble for them. Watch out for the chicken-on-a-stick vendors, though, as the moment you step out of the vehicle, or even just open a window, cooked meat on a skewer is thrust toward you!
Uganda is about the same size as Britain but due to its wide range of rich habitats it has an amazing list of over 1,060 bird species. Our total at low-season (rainy season just ending) was 418. The amazing prehistoric-like Shoebill is, of course, one of the most sought-after birds. There are two endemic bird species and four which are rare or accidental. Several species occur only in the Albertine Rift Valley running down the western border of Uganda. Mammals are now doing well after the dreadful years of the 70s and we were surprised at the numbers seen. The list is now over 300 species but most of these are bats and rodents; our total of 41was very pleasing.
Changing Sterling or US Dollars to Uganda Shillings is easy, either at the airport or one of the many places en route. Most hotels and lodges accept US Dollars and Sterling but of course you need to check their exchange rates. There are medical centres and small hospitals in towns should there be an emergency or any health issues.
The Republic of Uganda is often called the Pearl of Africa, a title attributable to Winston Churchill. It is 3 hours ahead of GMT and has two main rainy seasons: March to May and September to November but rain is possible at any time. It’s a very friendly nation, the people are welcoming, making you feel comfortable, so much so that we never felt insecure or unsafe at any time. English is the official language (inherited from colonial times) and is widely spoken. Swahili is the National language but there are forty indigenous languages. Children get excited when they see “mzungu” (all white people), cheering and waving as you pass by. The communication is good with mobile phone coverage in most of the areas and wi-fi at several of the hotels and lodges. It can be extremely hot in the lowlands (Murchison, Queen Elizabeth, Lake Mburo) so take plenty of sun screen, but dawn is often very cool and you need a fleece or jacket.
We flew KLM from Norwich for the short hop to Amsterdam and had 1hr 40mins transfer time before boarding the onward flight to Entebbe (with a short touch-down in Kigali, Rwanda) making a journey time of about 11½ hours (less on the return as we didn’t go via Kigali). Unfortunately one of our bags didn’t make it onto the plane with us; it was put on the following day’s flight. However, this caused us very little trouble because Livingstone was at the airport to meet us and immediately made arrangements for someone to return to the airport the following night to collect the bag for us.
Itinerary
11th. Night arrival at Entebbe. Transfer to hotel. Boma Hotel
12th. Morning boat Mbamba swamp then walking at edge of Lake Victoria. Later transfer to Jinja town. Gately on Nile
13th. Mabira forest until 16.30hr then birding in hotel grounds. Gately on Nile
14th Drive to Kaniyo-Pabidi sector of Budongo Forest; birding stops en route. Eco Lodge, Kaniyo-Pabidi
15th. Morning Budongo forest; afternoon drive to Murchison Falls NP/walk around the Falls area. Murchison River Lodge
16th. Early boat along Nile River to the delta/Lake Albert; late morning-afternoon game drive on north bank of Murchison Falls National Park. Murchison River Lodge
17th Whole day north bank Murchison Falls NP / game drives. Murchison River Lodge
18th Whole day north bank Murchison Falls NP / game drives. Murchison River Lodge
19th Early morning walk in lodge grounds then transfer to Masindi town via Butiaba escarpment and Busingiro sector of Budongo forest. Masindi Hotel
20th Day walking Royal Mile section of Budongo forest. Masindi Hotel
21st Day driving to Kibale National Park with birding stops on route. Primate Lodge.
22nd Morning chimpanzee tracking and birding in Kibale forest. Afternoon in lodge grounds and surrounding area. Primate Lodge.
23rd Morning walk at Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary. Afternoon in lodge grounds and surrounding area. Primate Lodge.
24th Morning drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park via Fort Portal and Kasese towns. Lunch by Park Office overlooking distant Lake Kikorongo then on to Mweya Safari Lodge overlooking the Kazinga Channel. Mweya Lodge
25th Morning game drive in QE Park. Afternoon boat along Kazinga channel. Late evening drive in QE Park. Mweya Lodge
26th Morning drive to Ishasha sector of QE Park then game drive. Ishasha Wilderness Camp
27th Morning game drive out of QE Park and on to Lake Mburo NP. Late afternoon/evening game drive at Mburo. Arcadia Cottages.
28th Morning boat on Lake Mburo followed by game drive. Early afternoon around lodge then game drive. Arcadia Cottages.
29th Morning and afternoon game drives in park. Arcadia Cottages.
30th Morning game drive out of Park then to Entebbe. Night flight home.
The following DIARY includes main highlights of each day; a full species list follows at the end of the report.
Day 1 : 12th November. Entebbe-Mbamba Swamp-Lake Victoria-Jinja
An early breakfast on the veranda at The Boma, watching a storm and heavy rain (short-lived, thankfully). Livingstone arrived at 07.00 and we headed for Mbamba Swamp, seeing plenty of birds even before we’d left Entebbe, including Great Blue Turaco, African Hobby, Splendid Starling, Palm-nut and Hooded Vultures, Marabou Stork and Hamerkop. After turning onto a dirt road the list grew rapidly: Eastern Grey Plantain-eater, Long-crested and Wahlberg’s Eagles, Black Sparrowhawk, Black-and-white Casqued and Crowned Hornbills and the first mammals, a troop of Tantalus Monkeys (we forgot to check the colour of their feet and tail-tip, so they may have been Vervets as this is within the overlap area for the two species). After about 1½hrs we arrived at a cluster of huts and small buildings and were soon in two small wooden canoes, ready to explore the famous Mbamba swamps. Narrow channels through papyrus and reeds occasionally opened up, allowing views across the swamp towards distant woodland, with birds, insects and plants all around us. Livingstone and the two boatmen constantly scanned for the real prize and it wasn’t too long before we had success - Shoebill, what a bird! Rather distant but standing quietly in a clearing, it turned its head and massive bill towards us. The boats were punted closer and we worried we might scare it but no, we got within camera range and it stayed quite still. Fantastic. Back on the main channel we soon turned into a small reedy lake and immediately saw several African Jacanas picking their way across the water lilies, then something much smaller - Lesser Jacana! There was still more to come, including Collared Pratincole, Yellow-billed Duck, Saddle-billed Stork, African Marsh Harrier, Black Crake and a second Shoebill.. A fabulous start to the trip.
After all this excitement it was time to eat our tasty (and very filling) packed lunch in a shady spot with Great Blue Turacos and Red-tailed Monkeys in the trees to keep us entertained. We moved to the shore of Lake Victoria where we had our first real “weaver” test. Five species visible at the same time, most busily nest-building: Northern Brown-throated, Village, Golden-backed, Black-headed and Slender-billed! It was then time to head for the hotel, Gately-on-Nile in Jinja, first negotiating heavy traffic around Kampala. We continued to add species to our list, notably Violet-backed Starling and White-throated Bee-eater.
Day 2 : 13th November. Jinja to Mabira forest
After a comfortable night and a hearty breakfast we strolled around the lush hotel grounds, picking up Olive-bellied, Marico and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds and a noisy pair of Meyer’s Parrots. We left at 08.30 to make our way to Mabira Forest, about an hour’s drive although it took us longer - we didn’t get far before our first stop to watch a noisy, squabbling colony of roosting Straw-coloured Fruit Bats in a palm tree, then a male Grey Parrot feeding a female. Good to see them in their natural habitat rather than a tiny cage.
One of the largest surviving natural rain forests in Uganda, Mabira didn’t disappoint. Accompanied by a young local guide, Herman, we walked along wide tracks through the forest. As well as the wealth of birds we were fascinated by the variety of butterflies all around us, many of them identified by Herman - some of the most impressive being White-barred and Foxy Charaxes and Broadly Green-banded Swallowtail. Birds were singing and calling everywhere, especially Tinkerbirds, and many were hard to see. We did find a great deal, though, such as Crowned Eagle, African Pied and Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills, Speckled, Yellow-rumped and Yellow-throated Tinkerbirds, Grey Crowned Crane, Buff-spotted Woodpecker, Banded Martin, several species of Greenbul, Olive-green Camaroptera, Forest Robin, African Shrike-flycatcher and Grey-headed Sunbird. There was much excitement when Livingstone picked up a White-spotted Flufftail and we had fantastic views of this very difficult species, managing to get a record photo as it ran across the track. Grey-cheeked Mangabeys were active and vocal, as were Red-tailed Monkeys. A Bőhm’s Sun Squirrel stayed still long enough to be identified. Then one of us disturbed some safari ants - they have a seriously painful bite so we all quickly made sure our trousers were well tucked into socks.
Day 3 : 14th November. Jinja to Kaniyo-Pabidi Sector of Budongo Forest (Murchison Falls NP)
After an early breakfast we left Jinja, drove through Mabira forest, skirted the capital and headed north for Masindi in northwest Uganda. It was a long drive and birding stops were few but the rural habitats were interesting with cactus-like Tree Euphorbias coming into flower and we saw a good number of birds, best perhaps was the excellent view of Marsh Widowbirds at Luweero Swamp. We pulled off the road and found a clearing amongst the trees for today’s picnic lunch - a great spot, full of birds including the only White-crested Turaco, White-shouldered Black Tit and Green-winged Pytilia of the trip. Tantalus Monkeys were eyeing our food so we had to be vigilant.
Continuing our journey we had more good sightings such as Ross’s Turaco, African Hawk Eagle, White-headed Barbet, Blue Monkey and Striped Ground Squirrel. We stopped in Masindi town to refuel and pick up a few supplies; as we watched some Bronze-tailed Starlings bustling around the forecourt a Grey Woodpecker came down onto a nearby telegraph pole.
We arrived at the park just before 18.00hrs (the gates close at 19.00hrs) and while Livingstone did the paper-work we were lucky to see two White-thighed Hornbills flying over, soon followed by the already familiar Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills; an excellent comparison of the two quite similar species. Guereza Colobus were feeding in tree, a big troop of Olive Baboons crossed the track and two Abyssinian Ground Hornbills strutted by. We drove on through this species-rich rain forest to Budongo Ecolodge, settled into our large, rustic eco-cabins then enjoyed a leisurely dinner on the veranda. Although it had been a long travelling day we enjoyed it and had an impressive day-list.
Day 4 : 15th November. Kaniyo-Pabidi Sector of Budongo Forest to Murchison Falls
As we were introduced to our local forest guide, Livingstone’s sharp eyes picked up a flock of Spotted Greenbuls flying over. As usual, forest birding was tricky but with the help of both Livingstone and our local guide we were soon adding to our list: various Sunbirds, Little Greenbul, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Green Hylia - plus Blue Malkoha and Narina Trogon, both high on our wanted list! A Red-legged Squirrel gave good views as did the Blue Monkeys.
We were all looking in different directions (skulking birds, an array of butterflies, a cicada on a branch…) when the guide stopped and excitedly beckoned us. Sitting quietly at the base of a tree ahead, to our utter amazement, was a Chimpanzee! Completely unexpected, even though we knew this to be a site for them. The mammal we most wanted to see already in the bag! We watched for a while then suddenly there were screams to our right, ‘our’ chimp started screeching and ran off in that direction just as another one rushed in from the left ‘hooting’ loudly, thumped the tree buttress (what a din!) then disappeared into the forest. Elated by this experience, we continued along the path, finding Yellow-spotted and Yellow-billed Barbets and much more. A figure appeared on the track - a Chimpanzee. He stopped, watching us. Obviously he wanted to come this way but we were blocking his route. After what seemed like an age, he walked off the track, skirted around us, rejoined the path and continued on his way. Fantastic.
After all the excitement of the morning we had a well deserved lunch break before driving to Murchison Falls. Close to the lodge we encountered more Abyssinian Ground Hornbills and a troop of baboons playing and grooming along the roadside. We saw three vehicles on the road ahead, one on its side. A police officer was overseeing things and one person, obviously in pain, was being eased into another car (a taxi). After checking there was nothing we could do, we gave a lift to one man who needed to reach Red Chilli Camp near Murchison Falls. The wrecked car had obviously gone out of control on the dirt road as it turned the bend. Unbelievably, the police officer had been attending another overturned car about ¼ mile ahead.
Fortunately, the rest of our journey was less eventful and we enjoyed a flock of 40 Red-throated Bee-eater, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Pale Flycatcher, our first Helmeted Guineafowl of the day and the first Elephant of the trip very close to the road just before reaching the Falls.
The spectacular sight (and sound) as the Victoria Nile is forced through a narrow gorge is definitely worth experiencing. Dozens of Red-headed Agama lizards scuttled across the rocks as we walked up to a viewpoint where the expected Rock Pratincoles obliged and we saw our first Bateleur of the trip - in fact we had 4 in the air together. Time was getting on so we headed for Murchison River Lodge, well situated on the south bank of the Victoria Nile. Each spacious and comfortable cottage is secluded with a large veranda giving views over trees and scrub - with lots of birds. Dinner was beside the river and before we retired we chose individual packed lunches for tomorrow.
Day 5 : 16th November. Nile Boat Trip to the Delta and Lake Albert. Then Game Drives.
Breakfast overlooking the Nile, watching African Fish Eagle and Saddle-billed Stork, and listening to the Hippos. Our 8.00 am boat arrived and we set off along the river, just the four of us and the cheerful boatman. Livingstone would take the vehicle across the river by ferry and meet us on the edge of the Park at lunch time. It was a comfortable boat with a canopy - vital in the strong sunshine - and we moved along slowly enabling good views. The first birds were Malachite and Pied Kingfishers, then we noticed all the Hippos in the water (skillfully avoided by the boatman) and Nile Crocodiles. Black Crake, Giant Kingfisher, Long-toed Lapwing, Blue-headed Coucal, Goliath, Purple and Squacco Herons, Northern and Black-winged Red Bishops, Rattling Cisticola, Olive Bee-eater, Little Bittern, White-winged Black and Whiskered Terns and many more were seen. We were still struggling a bit with all the different Weavers! As we approached the point where Livingstone was waiting for us a small antelope moved through the grass - an Oribi. We disturbed a large Nile Monitor Lizard as we clambered off the boat.
It had been a very good morning but there was more to come before we had lunch. The views across the park towards the river were stunning - large herds of Uganda Kob, Defassa Waterbuck and Oribi and groups of Warthog and Lelwel Hartebeest on the open, green plains dotted with trees and thickets, with Elephants drinking by the river - far more animals than expected. Then, for Jacquie, the real treasure: Rothschild’s Giraffes. Lots of them. She counted 29 crossing the track in front of us. Livingstone suddenly stopped the vehicle - he’d spotted a bird which isn’t normally found here and we all had excellent views of a Brown-chested Lapwing! We had lunch under some shady trees with Buff-bellied Warbler and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters keeping us company.
During the afternoon we found many other dry savanna birds including Hueglin’s Francolin, African Harrier Hawk, three species of Vulture (including Lappet-faced), Marshall Eagle, Tawny Eagle (carrying a young Nile Monitor Lizard), Eastern Chanting Goshawk, Denham’s Bustard, Kittliz’s Plover, Spot-flanked Barbet and Jacobin Cuckoo. Flying over us at one stage was a flock of 360 Abdim’s Storks, returning for their winter stay. As we watched a huge herd of African Buffalo spread out across the plain we noticed a group of Patas Monkeys amongst them. We spent quite a while trying to photograph small dung beetles attempting to roll their ball over rough terrain and finished the afternoon’s excursion with a Northern Black Flycatcher and Nubian Woodpecker before heading back to the Lodge. It took a long time to do the checklist this evening!
Day 6 : 17th November. Full day Murchison Falls National Park
Each day involved a short ferry trip across the Nile, and there was always something of interest, like the Wire-tailed Swallows zooming around us. Before reaching the ferry today we saw Crested Francolin, a Grey Tit flycatcher and our first Flappet Lark performing its amazing display flight. We spent the whole day driving in the park and were not disappointed, finding the first Lions of the trip and had a nice view of a Bohor Reedbuck. Other species not found yesterday included Diederik Cuckoo, Blue-naped Mousebird, Abyssinian Roller, Black Scimitarbill, Western Black-headed Batis, Dusky Babbler, Silverbird, Shelley’s Sparrow, male Bohor Reedbuck and Guereza Colobus.
There were quite a lot of birds around the lodge grounds including Black-chested Snake Eagle, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, Orange-breasted Bushshrike and Red-headed Weaver.
Day 7 : 18th November. Full day Murchison Falls National Park
Another full day in the park with non-stop birds and mammals. On route to the ferry we were pleased with Red-winged and Moustached Grass Warblers, White-browed Coucal, Tambourine Dove, Black-rumped Waxbill and Bronze Mannikin. Spending a few days in the park was very rewarding as each day was different; today’s sightings included White Stork (the only ones of the trip), Gabar Goshawk, Green Wood Hoopoe, Lesser Honeyguide, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Red-winged Grey Warbler and Yellow-throated Long-claw. It was a good day for raptors with three different Martial Eagles and superb views of a male Montagu’s Harrier hunting over the grassland. Livingstone taught us the calls and identification features of a number of Cisticolas today: Rattling, Croaking, Foxy and Short-winged. A nice female Bushbuck was new for the trip and we were lucky to see yet more Lions, two females with cubs resting in a dense thicket. Livingstone was impressed that we had counted a total of 279 Giraffe for the day as they had never been counted on previous trips. At a busy, very noisy, colony of Vitteline Masked Weavers we watched a male completely destroy the nest he’d just built - no doubt the female had found it unfit-for-purpose!
Day 8 : 19th November. Murchison to Masindi via Butiaba Escarpment and Busingiro
After a leisurely breakfast we had an hour’s walk in the Lodge grounds where some of the notable birds were Red-faced Cisticola, Northern Puffback, Dusky Babbler and Snowy-crowned Robin-chat. It was then time to leave Murchison and drive to Masindi via the Butiaba escarpment (overlooking Lake Albert), Bugunga reserve and the Busingiro part of Budongo forest. The scenery was spectacular along much of the route. We saw a large bird in flight which seemed huge, so we stopped for a better look; to our amazement it was a Shoebill and we watched in awe as it circled above the swamps of Lake Albert. We stopped several times today, picking up many raptors including three species of Snake Eagle, Gabar and Dark Chanting Goshawks and Long-crested Eagle. Plenty of other species, too, such as White-Rumped Seedeater, Silverbird, Pintailed Whydah and Village Indigobird. We passed a small group of lekking Uganda Kob close to the road below the escarpment and some Guereza Colobus in roadside trees.
We had our picnic lunch away from the road on a hillside, watched by some very inquisitive Olive Baboons. Nearby we saw Whinchat, Cinnamon Breasted and Golden Breasted Buntings. In the village of Bisou we passed a huge roost of Pelicans and Marabou Storks. Reaching Busingiro Forest we had a walk along the road to stretch our legs and do some birding - of note here were Western Oriole, Fraser’s Rufous Thrush, Grey-throated Tit-Flycatcher and Sooty Flycatcher. We drove on further to a private estate for another short walk by a large pond. The first thing we noticed stopped us in our tracks; it was a large, dead Forest Cobra (killed by a farm worker). European Bee-eaters were the most numerous birds around, but others included Grosbeak Weaver, Black-and-white Casqued Hornbill and White-headed Sawing. A huge number of African Snout butterflies were swarming over damp ground - hundreds of them. A big troop of Baboons emerged from the nearby sugarcane plantation, hotly pursued by farm workers trying to protect their crops. Time was now running out and we moved on and checked in at the old colonial Masindi Hotel.
Day 9 : 20th November. Day along the Royal Mile, Budongo Forest
Leaving the hotel early, we saw a good range of species as we drove through Masindi town with its mature trees, shrubs, flowery gardens and rough patches, including Woodland and Pygmy Kingfishers, Grey Kestrel, Shikra, White-thighed Hornbill, Broad-billed Roller, Short-winged Cisticola, Guereza Colobus and Tantalus Monkeys. All common enough but good to see around town! We made a detour to Kabango village to pick up Vincent, a very knowledgeable naturalist guide (who Livingstone has known for many years) then we were on our way to the forest. Before reaching the famous Royal Mile we stopped to check a wooded area; the movement of a very small bird caught our attention; it was a White-chinned Prinia the first of only two on the trip, then we passed a glorious African Tulip Tree in full bloom.
It was getting rather hot but as soon as we reached the Royal Mile it was cool beneath the trees. We spent the day walking along the red dirt road looking for specialties of the area; most birds were either very high in the canopy or deep in the undergrowth so we had to work hard for the superb list we achieved! Blue-throated Roller, Superb and Grey-chinned Sunbirds, Yellow-crested and Brown-eared Woodpeckers, Narina Trogon, Western Nicator, Red-chested and African Emerald Cuckoos, Red-headed Malimbe, Grey Headed Nigrita, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher (a sought-after bird), Shining Blue Kingfisher, Sabine’s Spinetail, Slender-billed and Yellow-whiskered Greenbuls and Lemon-bellied Crombec were just some of the species seen. The real neck-breaker was Ituri Batis but all the effort was worthwhile when we finally got on to this tiny gem. It wasn’t all about birds today, though; as well as identifying both Red-legged Sun Squirrel and Alexander’s Dwarf Squirrel we were fascinated by the variety of butterflies in an array of colours and sizes. Luckily for us Vincent could name many of them - Mother of Pearl, Eyed Pansy, African Castor, Ribbe's Glassy Acraea (and its stunningly colourful bristly caterpillar, too), Pied False Acraea, Soldier Commodore and Large Fairy Hairstreak were just a few of those identified.
As usual, we found it hard to drag ourselves away after such a thoroughly enjoyable day.
Day 10 : 21st November. Masindi to Kibale National Park
We had a long, scenic drive from Masindi to Kibale, mostly on rough, dusty roads but we broke the journey with occasional roadside birding. First we came across two more White-headed Barbets, then at another stop near the village of Murro we had a very productive walk, adding several new species: Red-collared Widowbird, Compact Weaver, Black-bellied and Bar-breasted Firefinch. Beautiful, Copper and Olive-bellied Sunbirds were also seen there. Further on we reached an area of papyrus swamp which looked good for Papyrus Gonolek. And so it was - we very soon heard them but it took Livingstone’s sharp eyes to pick up the movement of two birds, then another pair appeared displaying and calling very close to the road; a delight to see four of these difficult and beautiful birds. There was an African Emerald Cuckoo nearby. Olive Baboon sightings were frequent today and we saw a small group of Grey-cheeked Mangabeys.
Nearing the end of the journey we saw the first Northern Fiscal and there were up to six Cinnamon-chested Bee-eaters sitting on overhead wires. It was 18.15hrs by the time we reached Primate Lodge, a superb place surrounded by forest. Our cottages were rather luxurious, each set well apart in forest clearings with flowering shrubs around the perimeter - excellent for butterflies. After dark we found many other creatures, such as Katydid grasshoppers, ‘stick’ insects, an assortment of moths and Forest Dwarf Geckos on the external walls of the cottages.
Day 11 : 22nd November. Kibale Forest
After breakfast we headed to Kibale Visitor Centre just a couple of minutes’ drive from the lodge. After registering for a morning walk we had a short introductory talk about the primates and the work being done at Kibale, then we were allocated a tracker/guide - Gerard - giving Livingstone a free morning. We were full of anticipation as we made our way into the forest, knowing we needed some luck to find Chimpanzees but also knowing there’s a wealth of other wildlife to be seen. We began by looking at the many ferns and other plants beside the path, then marvelled at the massive trees with impressive buttresses. Epiphytes were in abundance on the trees, attracting birds and insects. Gerard was aware of our all-round interest and pointed out numerous birds such as Hairy-breasted Barbet, Slender-billed Greenbul and Purple-headed Starling as well as plants and insects. He searched hard for Pittas (no luck, wrong time of year) and for Chimpanzees which were the main target.
The forest is dense, the trails quite narrow and uneven and so we found it difficult to look up into the trees for signs of movement. Gerard found it easy, of course, and soon pointed out a big male Chimpanzee feeding high above us, giving us partial views as he moved through the branches. After about 10 minutes he descended to the ground, very close to us, and wandered off into the forest. Moments later a second chimp came from our right, ran through the undergrowth, thumped a buttress and started screaming; the first chimp was now screaming, too. Then suddenly all went quiet. A breath-taking experience. Gerard received word (on his mobile) that the main chimp group had been located about 3kms away. We declined to go in search of them as we’d been walking for 3 hours, it was now approaching noon, getting very hot and a further 6km trek seemed too much. Gerard was surprised by our decision but we had thoroughly enjoyed our encounter with the two male chimps and were happy to leave it at that and return to the Centre. A sudden movement in the trees caught our eye and a very young chimp came to peer at us inquisitively, just above our heads; then mum came over to check all was OK and we decided to move away quietly, leaving them in peace. It was a wonderful experience.
Now we could concentrate on the birds! A rather elusive Blue Malkoha eventually gave us brief views and a majestic Crowned Eagle soared across a small gap in the canopy. Huge beautiful butterflies were everywhere but they flew too fast for identification.
Back at the lodge we couldn’t stop talking about the chimps!
After lunch we spent a couple of hours on the cottage verandas, watching butterflies and birds and listening to nearby chimps. Later we went to the forest edge where we found lots of birds new for the trip: Petit’s Cuckooshrike, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Black Bee-Eater, Cassin’s Flycatcher, Mountain Wagtail, Willcock’s Honeyguide and Narrow-tailed Starling. Others of note were Grey-throated Barbet, Yellow-crested Woodpecker, Purple-throated Cuckooshrike, Grey Parrot and Velvet-mantled Drongo. A troop of primates high in a fruiting tree caught our eye and after a couple of seconds we realised they were Chimpanzees - 15 of them. Later we came across Grey-cheeked Mangabey and Red-tailed Monkey. It had been another exciting day!
Day 12 : 23rd November. Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary and Kibale Forest
This morning we went to Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, a community-led project which protects the 4 sq.kms of Magombe Swamp. We walked for about 3 hours through riverine woodland, along board walks over swamps, across open meadows and along the edge of farmland; such varied habitat gave us a productive morning. The young guide here was very knowledgeable about the sanctuary and its birds; as with many of the local guides we met, he had a keen interest in all wildlife, especially birds and butterflies. Some of the many highlights were Ross’s Turaco, Levaillant’s, Diederik and African Emerald Cuckoos, African Pygmy and Shining-blue Kingfishers, Speckle-breasted Woodpecker, Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher, African Blue and Dusky Blue Flycatchers, Honeyguide Greenbul, Green Crombec, White-chinned Prinia, Brown-backed Scrub Robin and Green-headed and Superb Sunbirds. On the meadow we had good views of a very obliging African Pipit along with a Pin-tailed Whydah and later a Mottled Spinetail was overhead. Butterflies were everywhere and many plants were in flower. Back at Primate Lodge we spent a few hours around our cottages trying to photograph butterflies, ants, dragonflies and day-flying moths and watching a small group of Guereza Colobus feeding in the tall trees when a Cassin’s Hawk-Eagle flew over (the only one of the trip). Later we did some forest-edge birding again, very successfully, with prolonged views of two squabbling pairs of Grey-throated Barbets, a Crowned Hornbill, Purple-headed, Splendid and Slender-billed Starlings and Grey-headed Nigrita. We found signs of recent Elephant activity and as we returned to the lodge three Chimpanzees crossed the road.
After dark we searched the trees around the cottages with a torch; lots of insects, mainly crickets and katydid grasshoppers and an all-too-brief glimpse of a small Galago (probably Demidoff’s).
Day 13 : 24th November. Kibale to Mweya, Queen Elizabeth Park.
We had a good start to the day - just after breakfast Livingstone alerted us to a couple of Magpie Mannikins beyond the dining area, he wanted to be sure we didn’t overlook them as some similar but more common Black-and-white Mannikins were in the same area. As we left the Lodge, a Black Sparrowhawk flew across the road and a short way along the main road we saw a perched Honey Buzzard and Black Bee-eater.
It had been cooler at Kibale (higher altitude and heavily forested) but as we dropped lower towards Queen Elizabeth Park it became very warm. The towns and villages were all very interesting; roadside vendors pleaded with us to purchase “chicken-on-a-stick”, bananas or roasted corn. Puzzled at first by the large corrugated metal sheets and poles erected beside the road, we were enlightened by Livingstone; these are to catch grasshoppers, for food. Amongst the many birds we saw on route we picked up two more ‘firsts’ - a small roadside colony of Baglafecht Weavers and then at Katwe-Kikorongo crater lake some Alpine Swifts came to drink. At the Equator we stopped briefly for the obligatory photos. The weather was changing, it turned very windy and we had a few spots of rain. On reaching the booking office for Queen Elizabeth National Park, we decided to sit under the shelter perched on a small hill to eat our picnic lunch with a wonderful view over a vast lake on the edge of the park where we could see distant Defassa Waterbuck, Buffalo and Elephant beside the lake and a few flamingos way off in the distance - it was much too windy to use ‘scopes, so we couldn’t identify them. Six Sacred Ibis flew over, a lovely sight. Then the sky darkened, the wind strengthened and suddenly lunch boxes and cups were blown away! There was a frantic scramble to gather everything, with loud thunder and forked lightning all around us. As heavy rain started to fall we got into the vehicle; the storm soon passed and we moved on into the park. Along the road a White-winged Widowbird caught our attention, flitting around a bush. Southern Red Bishop, Red-necked Spurfowl, Black-lored Babbler and Brimstone Canary were all seen well. A large bull Elephant came walking towards us on the road, then he stopped, swinging his trunk. He wouldn’t give way and nor would Livingstone (he’s seen it all before and knows just how to deal with such a situation). After much to-ing and fro-ing, the elephant eventually walked around us and continued on his way. Lots of Buffalo were spread out across the savanna and a small herd of elephants walked calmly through the trees. We had excellent views of Crested Francolin and Red-necked Spurfowl and a Scrub Hare (surprisingly, this was new for the list).
It was raining heavily by the time we reached the Main Gate at 16.30hrs but eased as we drove along the edge of Lake Edward (Nile Crocodiles, Pink-backed Pelicans, Hippos, terns and egrets). We eventually reached Mweya Lodge, set high on a peninsular overlooking the Kazinga Channel; the first thing you see on arrival is a larger-than-life statue of a bull elephant!
Our rooms looked out over the natural channel joining Lakes Edward and George - a stunning view with hippos, buffalo, pelicans, storks, terns….. A White-browed Robin-chat was nesting near the dining room and bats were flying in and out of the lobby (surprisingly, no one was worried by this). At dinner we toasted yet another successful day.
It rained again during the night.
Day 14 : 25th November. Game Drives in QE Park - boat trip on Kazinga Channel
A Swamp Flycatcher greeted us as we opened the door this morning - they are very tame here. Birds and mammals came thick and fast on this morning’s drive, some of the first seen were Red-faced Crombec, Red-headed Lovebird and Arrow Marked Babbler. The extensive savanna with a backdrop of rolling hills was full of antelope and groups of Warthog. A female Pallid Harrier drifted past, a small flock of Lesser Masked Weavers gave good views and several White-rumped Swift were feeding over a small pool. Moving into a different area we saw Red-breasted Swallow and Rufous-naped Larks and the most common mammal seemed to be Buffalo. Livingstone noticed movement in the long grass - a mating pair of Lions. They were not in a good spot for photography but we then realized at least 3 more were draped over ‘branches’ of a nearby Tree Euphorbia! [Thought they only did this is in Ishasha!] As we attempted to get some decent pictures, an African Pipit was running around our vehicle, an African Marsh Harrier was hunting and a Bataleur floated above us. Stopping by a soda lake we found Water Thick-knee (another ‘first’) and several waders. We hadn’t gone much further when we saw a very impressive Martial Eagle perched low on a Euphorbia beside the road. We were now getting hungry but before reaching the lodge we watched a White-browed Scrub Robin (another first) and Brimstone Canary. During our extended lunch break overlooking Kazinga Channel we were constantly distracted by activity around the bird feeders: mostly noisy Arrow-marked Babblers, Northern Black Flycatcher and Red-chested Sunbird. Around our table Slender-billed Weavers picked up any crumbs that fell to the floor, whilst a Swamp Flycatcher was more interested in the tiny flies around the chairs.
We were booked on the 16.00hrs boat trip along the Kazinga Channel - another ‘exclusive’ trip on a small boat with just us 4, Livingstone and the boatman. We headed quickly across to the far side, hippos grunting and snorting as we passed them. Then we saw birds resting on the bank - 27 African Skimmers! Cracking views as some took off, flew around the boat and resettled. Over the next couple of hours we were mesmerized by the sheer numbers of birds, mammals and reptiles along the channel. Buffalo cooled themselves in the water, Defassa Waterbuck strolled along, Nile Crocodiles lay motionless and the masses of birds included African Spoonbill, Yellow-billed Stork, Intermediate, Great, Cattle and Little Egrets, Black Crake, Striated and Squacco Herons, Great White and Pink-backed Pelicans, African Fish Eagles (11 of them) and waders galore, many being Western Palearctic migrants. But what made the biggest impression on us all was the White-winged Terns in their thousands feeding across the channel, combined with the huge number of hirundines amongst them, it was almost like being in the midst of a swarm of flies! An unforgettable sight and the best boat trip ever. [After looking at our photos back home we believe an odd-looking large gull alongside the many Lesser Black-backed Gulls was an Armenian Gull, a rare species in Uganda].
With dusk falling, and still reeling from all that excitement, we went straight off into the park for an early evening drive. We soon saw a handsome male Pallid Harrier then, just as it was dark, a Square-tailed Nightjar flew over the scrub and a Bunyoro Rabbit shot across the track. Taking the long route back to the lodge we saw at least three Kittlitz’s Plovers. By now we were more than ready for dinner.
Day 15 : 26th November. Mweya to Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park
A pre-breakfast stroll around the lodge grounds produced Grey-backed Camaroptera, Black-headed Gonolek, Yellow Wagtails, Little and African Palm Swifts and the friendly Swamp Flycatcher. Black-headed and Village Weavers joined the others at the bird table at breakfast time. We then left Mweya and headed for Ishasha. Crossing the bridge over the Kazinga Channel Livingstone was disappointed to see that much of the lush papyrus swamp has been cleared for road works - no chance of finding Caruther’s Cisticola now. We soon turned off the tarmac road onto a very rough and dusty dirt road but there was so much to see we hardly noticed. These roads are OK if you drive sensibly but we saw several overturned trucks, their drivers setting up make-shift camps while they waited for help. Along the stretch through Maramagamba forest literally thousands of butterflies covered the verges and swarmed around puddles. Many (but not all) seemed to be just two species, a yellow one and a white one but we didn’t identify any of them. Along this stretch we found half a dozen Common Buzzards, looking rather different from those we normally seen in the UK. Then, alas, a spring broke on the vehicle; Livingstone wasn’t concerned, saying he knew what it was and would take it to a garage later this evening. It’s impressive how he fills you with confidence. We made a short stop and found two Greater Honeyguides, a Purple-banded Sunbird and a Pearl-spotted Owlet, all firsts for the trip. Later we saw (and heard - another Cisticola lesson) a Stout Cisticola, again a new bird. One of the most impressive sights of this drive were the huge flocks of Barn Swallows, literally thousands! A very large bull Elephant stood close to the road, happily ripping leaves from plants within reach; he wasn’t bothered by us trying to photograph him. We saw a Fork-tailed Drongo - and commented on just how few we had seen during the trip. Many other birds and mammals were seen along this scenic route as we continued on through vast savanna grasslands and patchy forest, all the way to Ishasha. Lunch was by the Gates of the Ishasha sector, with a Red-chested Cuckoo calling non-stop as we ate. Then we were off to find some tree-climbing Lions but first there were herds of Topi with their unusual glossy, deep chestnut coat with dark, almost purple patches on the rump. It was becoming stormy but that didn’t stop us finding birds - Africa Harrier Hawk, Black Scimitarbill and Green Wood Hoopoe amongst them. It wasn’t too long before Livingstone caught sight of Lions lazing in a big Euphorbia. They had obviously fed well and looked decidedly uncomfortable with their bulging bellies flopped over the rough branches, legs dangling and constantly changing position. There was another safari vehicle beside us but they soon lost interest and drove away, while we stayed ages, finding two more lions in the next tree.
Approaching Ishasha Wilderness Camp we stopped again to watch a Banded Mongoose clan. The camp is in an idyllic location beside a river, surrounded by trees. What a pity we are only staying one night. The “tents” are massive, wooden-framed with thick canvas sides, a king-size bed, lots of storage space and an adjoining bathroom with shower, twin washbasins and a flushing loo. We sat by the river before dinner watching Great Blue Turacos, an Ashy Flycatcher and Blue Monkeys. Livingstone didn’t join us for dinner tonight as he took the vehicle to the nearest town for repair; he got back to Ishasha about 22.30hrs. We could hear Hyenas ‘whooping’ nearby as we drifted off to sleep.
Day 16 : 27th November. Ishasha to Lake Mburo National Park
A large owl was calling pre-dawn (probably Verreaux’s Eagle Owl), we could also hear Hyenas and the Guereza Colobus began their morning chorus. As soon as it was light a Grey-headed Kingfisher started calling just outside our tent. We didn’t really want to leave such a lovely spot but much of the coming day would be a “game drive” as we slowly drive out of Ishasha and again when we reach Lake Mburo.
There were some nice sightings on the way out of Ishasha: Little Bee-eaters catching insects over the long grass, seven Temmink’s Coursers running along the bare airstrip while Yellow-throated Longclaws sang from the surrounding fence and Flappet Larks lived up to their name. A distant hovering raptor was a Black-winged Kite, then we saw an Osprey. A White-headed Vulture came into view as we were watching Olive Bee-eaters and Grey Crowned Cranes. A long line of Elephants was slowly moving across the plain. We detoured for a while and stopped beside the river in Ishasha camp site where the river forms the border between Uganda and the Congo (so the Egyptian Geese we saw could, strictly speaking, go on a “Congo list”!) Species on the Ugandan side were Little Greenbul, Olive-bellied Sunbird and a Green Sandpiper. Back on the road we saw two Pallid Harriers plus a mixed flock of Violet-backed and Wattled Starlings.
We were now in the buffer zone on a very bumpy road but still seeing lots of birds - Lizard Buzzard, Yellow Bishop and African Dusky Flycatcher - and lots of Grey Crowned Cranes. African Firefinch, Chubb’s Cisticola and Augur Buzzard were new for the list. We passed Nendo Gorge then stopped along the main road at a large fruit and vegetable stall where Livingstone bought huge bags of avocados and mangos (each bag of fruit costing less than 50p in sterling) and a bunch of small sweet bananas. Well on our way to the next destination we were still adding to the day list with a range of species, from Yellow-billed Duck, Woolly-necked and Yellow-billed Storks to African Goshawk.
Turning off the main road, we entered the cattle ranches on land once part of the Lake Mburo National Park. The cattle, Ankole, are impressive beasts with massively thick, long horns but it is sad they now occupy what used to be a protected area. The Cattle Egrets were happy to be with them, though. We reached the Park gates and immediately saw Bare-faced Go-away Bird, Senegal Lapwing and Lilac-breasted Roller. A signpost showed it was 25kms to Arcadia Cottages, so we had a good game drive ahead of us. Now we were seeing Plains Zebra and Impala as well as the familiar Defassa Waterbuck and Topi. The park was very green and roadside pools and marshy patches held Knob-billed and White-faced Whistling Ducks as well as waders.
Staff came out to greet us as we pulled into the parking area at Arcadia Cottages; we were chaperoned to our rooms because hippos and warthog roam here at night. The cottages were not as luxurious as some of the other places but they were clean and spacious, if a little bare, and the bathrooms were fine with plenty of hot water. Food was good although the menu was rather restricted, but we were happy to stay here close to the lake and within easy reach of the tracks and trails, whereas other lodges and camps are too distant. After a very full day we were ready for a beer, dinner and bed.
Day 17 : 28th November. Boat on Lake Mburo and drives in Lake Mburo National Park
After breakfast (including delicious mangos we bought yesterday) we made our way to Lake Mburo just a few minutes from the lodge. Livingstone joined us for yet another exclusive boat trip, and we set off across the lake in eager anticipation. The first to show themselves were Pied and Malachite Kingfisher and hippos - LOTS of hippos! Large Nile Crocodiles ‘sank’ as we passed by. The trees and bushes lining the banks were full of birds, including nest-building Holub’s Golden and Red-headed Weavers. We had good views of Black Cuckooshrike and Swamp Flycatcher with Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters overhead and lots more. Five Striated Herons were counted along the shoreline and then towards the end of the trip the boatman slowly steered us in close to the bank; swimming in the tangle of tree roots was an African Finfoot and a little further on two more. One of these climbed onto a fallen branch and began preening; we couldn’t believe our luck! Back at the jetty Lesser Striped Swallows were gathering mud for their nests in the nearby toilet block.
Next was a very fruitful drive; new species were Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Long-tailed Cisticola, Black Cuckoo, Brubru and Tropical Boubou. Another Lesser Honeyguide was also good to see. Warthogs, Impala, Defassa Waterbuck, Topi and Plains Zebra were common. Most of the ‘Vervets’ here had black feet and tail-tip, so were probably Vervet although some looked a little more like Tantalus; is this really a reliable ID feature? Perhaps we were in an overlap zone again.
Lunch was back at the lodge with Impala and Vervets all around us and the ever-present calls of African Fish Eagles filled the air. We had a couple of hours by our rooms watching a female Bushbuck and Warthogs wandering around the grounds before heading off again; we planned to stay out late exploring side tracks to look for crepuscular animals and birds. A group of Banded Mongoose ran alongside the vehicle, then Jacquie found a dozen Rothschild’s Giraffes, she was delighted by this, not realising they occurred here (they were translocated from Kenya). A couple of new species were added to the list, African Cuckoo and Crested Barbet. Some of us had a brief view of Servaline Genet then in fading light we watched a gang of eighteen Dwarf Mongoose (several youngsters amongst them) running along the track towards an old termite mound; it was fascinating to watch them darting in and out of the mound, grooming and squabbling, always at least one keeping watch. After dark we heard a Square-tailed Nightjar and after a while it flew in our direction, just as a Scrub Hare dashed across the track.
Day 18 : 29th November. Lake Mburo National Park
An Orange-breasted Bushshrike greeted us first thing this morning and half a dozen Yellow Wagtails confused us momentarily - they aren’t supposed to fly up into trees!
It was very hot today as we explored more side tracks in the park. Many of the birds and mammals were by now familiar to us but there were still some surprises to come. A new bird was and the only Spur winged Goose of the trip. In one tree there was an incredible 11 species: White-winged Black Tit (new for trip), Green-winged Pytilia, Cardinal Woodpecker, Grey-tit Flycatcher, Willow Warbler, Crested and Spot-flanked Barbets, Long-tailed Cisticola, Lesser Masked Weaver, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and Red-billed Fire-finch. Other notable species this morning were the only Spur-winged Goose of the trip, a Western Black-headed Batis, Black-lored Babbler and Common Scimitarbill. A herd of Eland was especially welcome - another species which has been reintroduced to the area so it was good to see some youngsters amongst them. Mature Impala rams were holding territory and we witnessed a few fights - these elegant antelope are very nimble. Bushbuck in this park were rather interesting as we often saw them (mostly females) standing atop a big termite mound, right in the open; in other countries we’ve found Bushbuck tend to remain in thickets or woodland.
The afternoon safari was different again with prolonged views of two Plain-backed Pipits, yet another new bird. More Lilac-breasted Rollers and a couple of noisy Meyer’s Parrots flew over. We ended the day with another group of characterful Dwarf Mongooses. Then it was time to head back to the cottages and think about packing ready for tomorrow’s departure.
Day 19 : 30th November. Lake Mburo NP to Entebbe and outbound flight.
Packed and ready to go, we enjoyed the Bushbuck, Impala, Warthogs and variety of birds around the breakfast area. We’ll certainly miss the call of African Fish Eagles. Perhaps not quite so welcome were the Vervet Monkeys - beautiful animals and very entertaining, but you need eyes in the back of your head when they are around. We hadn’t noticed one underneath a table and it made off with Dave’s banana, which we didn’t mind; it was the pile of optics and cameras that were of more concern as Vervets leapt on top of them.
We drove slowly through the park, still hoping for new species! We stopped to watch a pair of Red-faced Lovebirds when a Red-faced Barbet flew in front of the vehicle and settled in a tree beside the vehicle - a target species we’d given up all hope of finding! A couple of Mosque Swallows flew over and White-winged Black Tits were feeding beside the track but all too soon we were on the main road. We reached the Equator at Kayabwe just after midday where we had lunch and briefly browsed the shops and stalls. We reached the Boma Hotel in Entebbe by late afternoon giving us time to freshen up and have a meal before our late flight home. It was the end of a perfect trip.
Everything about this trip had been exceptional with never a dull moment. The days were packed full of fauna and flora and even on the long drives we always saw things of interest. We all thoroughly enjoyed the itinerary, accommodation and food. The wildlife exceeded expectations and we saw many of our hoped-for species plus a few surprises, too.
We highly recommend Livingstone African Safaris and are looking forward to the possibility of Livingstone guiding us in Tanzania in the future.
Birds - 418 species
White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata
Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis
Knob-billed Duck Sarkidornis melanotos
Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca
Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena
Heuglin's Francolin Pternistis icterorhynchus
Red-necked Spurfowl Pternistis afer
Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis
African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus
Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus
White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer
African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus
Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash
African Spoonbill Platalea alba
Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala
Goliath Heron Ardea goliath
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Great Egret Ardea alba
Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Hamerkop Scopus umbretta
Shoebill Balaeniceps rex
Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus
Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens
Reed Cormorant Microcarbo africanus
White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus
African Darter Anhinga rufa
Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus
African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus
Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis
European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus
Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus
White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus
Rϋppell's Vulture Gyps rueppelli
White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis
Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus
Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis
Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus
Western Banded Snake Eagle Circaetus cinerascens
Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus
Crowned Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus
Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus
Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis
Wahlberg's Eagle Hieraaetus wahlbergi
Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax
Cassin's Hawk-Eagle Aquila africana
African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster
Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus
Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar
Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates
Eastern Chanting Goshawk Melierax poliopterus
African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro
Shikra Accipiter badius
Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus
Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus
Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius
African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Augur Buzzard Buteo augur
Denham’s Bustard Neotis denhami
White-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura pulchra
African Finfoot Podica senegalensis
Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra
African Swamphen Porphyrio madagascariensis
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Grey Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum
Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis
Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris
Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus
Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus
Senegal Lapwing Vanellus lugubris
African Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus
Brown-chested Lapwing Vanellus superciliosus
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius
Lesser Jacana Microparra capensis
African Jacana Actophilornis africanus
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Ruff Calidris pugnax
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii
Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis
African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris
Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus
Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia
Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea
Mourning Collared Dove Streptopelia decipiens
Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata
Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola
Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea
Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis
Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos
Black-billed Wood Dove Turtur abyssinicus
Blue-spotted Wood Dove Turtur afer
Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria
African Green Pigeon Treron calvus
Great Blue Turaco Corythaeola cristata
White-crested Turaco Tauraco leucolophus
Ross's Turaco Musophaga rossae
Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus
Eastern Plantain-eater Crinifer zonurus
Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus
White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus
Blue Malkoha Ceuthmochares aereus
Levaillant's Cuckoo Clamator levaillantii
Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus
Diederik Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius
Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas
African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus
Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus
Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius
African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis
Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum
Square-tailed Nightjar Camprimulgus fossii
Mottled Spinetail Telacanthura ussheri
Sabine's Spinetail Rhaphidura sabini
African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus
Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba
Common Swift Apus apus
Little Swift Apus affinis
White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus
Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus
Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina
Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus
Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinicus
Blue-throated Roller Eurystomus gularis
Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus
Chocolate-backed Kingfisher Halcyon badia
Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala
Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti
Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis
African Pygmy Kingfisher Ispidina picta
Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus
Shining-blue Kingfisher Alcedo quadribrachys
Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
Black Bee-eater Merops gularis
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus
Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus
Blue-breasted Bee-eater Merops variegatus
Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates
Red-throated Bee-eater Merops bulocki
White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus
Olive Bee-eater Merops superciliosus
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus
Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops
African Hoopoe Upupa africana
Green Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus
Black Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus aterrimus
Common Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus cyanomelas
Abyssinian Ground Hornbill Bucorvus abyssinicus
Crowned Hornbill Lophoceros alboterminatus
African Pied Hornbill Lophoceros fasciatus
African Grey Hornbill Lophoceros nasutus
White-thighed Hornbill Bycanistes albotibialis
Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill Bycanistes subcylindricus
Grey-throated Barbet Gymnobucco bonapartei
Speckled Tinkerbird Pogoniulus scolopaceus
Yellow-throated Tinkerbird Pogoniulus subsulphureus
Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus bilineatus
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus
Yellow-spotted Barbet Buccanodon duchaillui
Hairy-breasted Barbet Tricholaema hirsuta
Spot-flanked Barbet Tricholaema lacrymosa
White-headed Barbet Lybius leucocephalus
Red-faced Barbet Lybius rubrifacies
Black-billed Barbet Lybius guifsobalito
Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus
Yellow-billed Barbet Trachyphonus purpuratus
Crested Barbet Trachyphonus vaillantii
Willcock's Honeyguide Indicator willcocksi
Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor
Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator
Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica
Buff-spotted Woodpecker Campethera nivosa
Brown-eared Woodpecker Campethera caroli
Yellow-crested Woodpecker Chloropicus xantholophus
Speckle-breasted Woodpecker Dendropicos poecilolaemus
Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens
African Grey Woodpecker Dendroppicos goertae
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus
Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera
African Hobby Falco cuvierii
Grey Parrot Psittacus erithacus
Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri
Red-headed Lovebird Agapornis pullarius
African Shrike-flycatcher Megabyas flammulatus
Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher Bias musicus
Western Black-headed Batis Batis erlangeri
Ituri Batis Batis ituriensis
Chestnut Wattle-eye Platysteira castanea
Brown-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea
Orange-breasted Bushshrike Chlorophoneus sulfureopectus
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus
Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis
Tropical Boubou Laniarius major
Papyrus Gonolek Laniarius mufumbiri
Black-headed Gonolek Laniarius erythrogaster
Brubru Nilaus afer
Black Cuckooshrike Campephaga flava
Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike Campephaga phoenicea
Petit's Cuckooshrike Campephaga petiti
Purple-throated Cuckooshrike Campephaga quiscalina
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio
Red-tailed Shrike Lanius phoenicuroides
Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor
Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides
Northern Fiscal Lanius humeralis
Western Oriole Oriolus brachyrhynchus
Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus
Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis
Velvet-mantled Drongo Dicrurus modestus
Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone rufiventer
African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis
Piapiac Ptilostomus afer
Pied Crow Corvus albus
African Blue Flycatcher Elminia longicauda
White-shouldered Black Tit Melaniparus guineensis
White-winged Black Tit Melaniparus leucomelas
Western Nicator Nicator chloris
Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana
Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea
Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor
Slender-billed Greenbul Stelgidillas gracilirostris
Little Greenbul Eurillas virens
Little Grey Greenbul Eurillas gracilis
Yellow-whiskered Bulbul Eurillas latirostris
Honeyguide Greenbul Baeopogon indicator
Spotted Greenbul Ixonotus guttatus
White-throated Greenbul Phyllastrephus albigularis
White-headed Saw-wing Psalidoprocne albiceps
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Banded Martin Riparia cincta
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Angolan Swallow Hirundo angolensis
Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii
Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica
Red-breasted Swallow Cecropis semirufa
Mosque Swallow Cecropis senegalensis
Moustached Grass Warbler Melocichla mentalis
Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii
Green Crombec Sylvietta virens
Lemon-bellied Crombec Sylvietta denti
Chestnut-capped Flycatcher Erythrocercus mccallii
Green Hylia Hylia prasina
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops
Trilling Cisticola Cisticola woosnami
Chubb's Cisticola Cisticola chubbi
Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana
Winding Cisticola Cisticola marginatus
Stout Cisticola Cisticola robustus
Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis
Short-winged Cisticola Cisticola brachypterus
Foxy Cisticola Cisticola troglodytes
Long-tailed Cisticola Cisticola angusticauda
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava
White-chinned Prinia Schistolais leucopogon
Red-winged Warbler Heliolais erythropterus
Red-winged Grey Warbler Drymocichla incana
Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella
Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida
Buff-throated Apalis Apalis rufogularis
Grey-capped Warbler Eminia lepida
Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata
Olive-green Camaroptera Camaroptera chloronota
Scaly-breasted Illadopsis llladopsis albipectus
Black-lored Babbler Turdoides sharpei
Dusky Babbler Turdoides tenebrosa
Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii
African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis
Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea
Purple-headed Starling Hylopsar purpureiceps
Lesser Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus
Bronze-tailed Starling Lamprotornis chalcurus
Splendid Starling Lamprotornis splendidus
Purple Starling Lamprotornis purpureus
Rüppell's Starling Lamprotornis purpuroptera
Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster
Slender-billed Starling Onychognathus tenuirostris
Narrow-tailed Starling Poeoptera lugubris
Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus
Fraser’s Rufous Thrush Stizorhina fraseri
African Thrush Turdus pelios
Brown-backed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas hartlaubi
White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys
Grey-throated Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus griseigularis
Grey Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus plumbeus
Northern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides
Pale Flycatcher Melaenornis pallidus
Silverbird Empidornis semipartitus
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
Ashy Flycatcher Muscicapa caerulescens
Swamp Flycatcher Muscicapa aquatica
Cassin's Flycatcher Muscicapa cassini
African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta
Dusky-blue Flycatcher Muscicapa comitata
Sooty Flycatcher Muscicapa infuscata
White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini
Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat Cossypha niveicapilla
Forest Robin Stiphrornis erythrothorax
Spotted Palm Thrush Cichladusa guttata
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
Sooty Chat Myrmecocichla nigra
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Grey-headed Sunbird Deleornis axillaris
Western Violet-backed Sunbird Anthreptes longuemarei
Grey-chinned Sunbird Anthreptes rectirostris
Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris
Green-headed Sunbird Cyanomitra verticalis
Blue-throated Brown Sunbird Cyanomitra cyanolaema
Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra olivacea
Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis
Bronzy Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis
Olive-bellied Sunbird Cinnyris chloropygius
Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus
Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis
Red-chested Sunbird Cinnyris erythrocercus
Purple-banded Sunbird Cinnyris bifasciatus
Superb Sunbird Cinnyris superbus
Copper Sunbird Cinnyris cupreus
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali
Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser superciliosus
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Shelley’s Sparrow Passer shelleyi
Northern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus
Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis
Thick-billed Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons
Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht
Slender-billed Weaver Ploceus pelzelni
Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus
Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis
Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis
Holub's Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops
Northern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus castanops
Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius
Vitelline Masked Weaver Ploceus vitellinus
Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus
Vieillot's Black Weaver Ploceus nigerrimus
Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus
Golden-backed Weaver Ploceus jacksoni
Yellow-mantled Weaver Ploceus tricolor
Compact Weaver Ploceus superciliosus
Red-headed Malimbe Malimbus rubricollis
Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps
Red-headed Quelea Quelea erythrops
Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea
Black Bishop Euplectes gierowii
Black-winged Red Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus
Southern Red Bishop Euplectes orix
Northern Red Bishop Euplectes franciscanus
Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis
Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris
Marsh Widowbird Euplectes hartlaubi
White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus
Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens
White-breasted Nigrita Nigrita fusconotus
Grey-headed Nigrita Nigrita canicapillus
Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba
Black-bellied Firefinch Lagonosticta rara
Bar-breasted Firefinch Lagonosticta rufopicta
Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala
African Firefinch Lagonosticta rubricata
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus
Black-rumped Waxbill Estrilda troglodytes
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild
Black-crowned Waxbill Estrilda nonnula
Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis
Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata
Black-and-white Mannikin Lonchura bicolor
Magpie Mannikin Lonchura fringilloides
Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata
Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura
Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara
African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp
Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus
African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus
Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys
White-rumped Seedeater Crithagra leucopygia
Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambica
Brimstone Canary Crithagra sulphurata
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi
Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris
African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis and Lemon Dove Columba larvata were heard but not seen. A Buttonquail sp. was flushed but could not be identified and a small number of Flamingos were too distant to be identified.
MAMMALS 41 species
Chimpanzee Pan troglodytes
Guereza Colobus Colobus guereza
Olive Baboon Papio anubis
Uganda(Grey-cheeked)Mangabey Lophocebus (albigena) ugandae
Patas Monkey Erythrocebus patas
Tantalus / Vervet Monkey Chlorocebus tantalus/pygerythrus
Blue Monkey Cercopithecus mitis
Red-tailed Monkey Cercopithecus ascanius
Demidoff's Galago Galago demidoff
Straw-coloured Fruit Bat Eidolon helvum
Angola Fruit Bat Lissonycteris angolensis
Yellow-winged Bat Lavia frons
Zebra Mouse sp. Lemniscomys sp.
Bunyoro Rabbit Poelagus marjorita
Scrub Hare Lepus saxatillis
Striped Ground Squirrel Xerus erythropus
Alexander’s Bush Squirrel Paraxerus alexandri
Bőhm's Bush Squirrel Paraxerus boehmi
Red-legged Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus rufobrachium
Side-striped Jackal Canis adustus
Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula
Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo
Servaline Genet Genetta servalina
Lion Panthera leo
Western Tree Hyrax Dendrohyrax dorsalis
African Savanna Elephant Loxodonta africana
Plains Zebra (Boehm’s/Grant’s) Equus quagga boehmi
Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius
Warthog Phacochoerus africanus
Rothschild’s Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi
African Buffalo Syncerus caffer
Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus
Eland Taurotragus oryx
Blue Duiker Philantomba monticola
Oribi Ourebia ourebi
Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca
Uganda Kob Kobus kob thomasii
Defassa Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus
Impala Aepyceros melampus
Topi Damaliscus lunatus jimela
(Jackson's) Lelwel Hartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus lelwel
REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS 9 species
Nile Crocodile Crocodylus niloticus
Nile Monitor Varanus niloticus
Tropical House Gecko Hemidactylus mabouia
Forest Dwarf Gecko Lygodactylus gutturalis
Striped Skink Mabuya striata
Speckle-lipped Skink Mabuya maculilabris
Blue-headed Agama Acanthocercus atricollis
Red-headed Rock Agama Agama agama
Forest Cobra DEAD Naja melanoleuca
BUTTERFLIES 44 species
Tentative ID only (with much help from guides at Mabira, Budongo, Kibale and Bigodi)
The Friar Amauris niavius
Large Spotted Acraea Acraea asboloplintha
Ituri Glassy Acraea Acraea iturina
Ribbe's Glassy Acraea, Acraea leucographa
Tawny Caster Acraea terpsicore
Common Acraea Acrea encedon
African Castor Ariadne enotrea
Dark Palm Forester Bebearia mardania
Light Brown Forester Bebearia zonara
African Migrant Catopsila florella
Common Pathfinder Catuna crithea
2-Spot (or Lesser?) Blue Charaxes Charaxes bipunctatus (?numenes)
White-barred Charaxes Charaxes brutus
Giant Charaxes Charaxes castor
Foxy Charaxes (2-tailed Pasha) Charaxes jasius
Common White Glider Cymothoe (Harma) caenis
Angular Glider Cymothoe (Harma) theobene
Variable Glider Cymothoe sp. (eris or hobarti ?
African Monarch Danaus chrysippus
Grass Yellow sp. Eurema sp.
Guineafowl Hamanubida daedalus
Diadem/Danaid Eggfly Hypolimnas misippus
Blue Diadem Hypolimnas salmacis
(?Large) Fairy Hairstreak Hypolyeaena (?antifaunus)
Soldier Commodore Junionia terea
Brown Pansy Junonia chorimene
(African) Wood White Leptosia sp.
African Snout Libythea labdaca
Sailor sp. Neptis sp.
Broadly Green-banded Swallowtail Papilio bromius/chrapkowskoides
Westwood’s Green-banded Swallowtail Papilio charopus
Mocker Swallowtail Papilio dardanus
Citrus Swallowtail Papilio demodocus
Green-banded Swallowtail Papilio nireus
Noble Swallowtail Papilio nobilis
Green-banded Swallowtail Papilio phorcas
Garden Inspector/Commodore Precis archesia
Blue (Black) Pansy Precis oenone
Eyed Pansy Precis orithya
False Diadem/Chief Pseudacraea lucretia tarquinia
African Blue Sailor Pseudoneptis bugandensis
Mother of Pearl Salamis parhassus
Abyssinian Admiral Vanessa abyssinica
Painted Lady Vanessa cardui
MOTHS
Hawk moth Neopolyptychus pygarga
DRAGONFLIES 3 species
Tiger Clubtail Ictinogomphus ferox
Banded Groundling Brachythemis leucosticte
African Black Widow Palpopleura lucia
Plus many unidentified moths, cicadas, mantids, grasshoppers, dung beetles, ground beetles, millipedes, etc.