After a very successful trip to central and southern Uganda with Livingstone African Safaris (info@livingstonesafaris.org) in 2017 our thoughts turned to the more remote, less-visited areas of northern and eastern Uganda and we soon arranged a trip to include Kidepo Valley National Park and Pian-Upe Wildlife Reserve. Driving distances to these locations are quite long and we decided it would be best to make a “round trip” by first heading west to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, Budongo forests and Murchison Falls National Park before going on to Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
It was a tailor-made 3-week tour, originally planned for four people but two had to pull out at the last minute. Kalema Livingstone (known as Livingstone) was again our driver/guide. Livingstone’s experience and professionalism are excellent and we relied heavily on his local knowledge as well as enjoying his company. His vehicles are comfortable, spacious Toyota Land Cruisers, customised for safari use.
Accommodation throughout was very good, often exceeding our expectations and food everywhere was of a high standard, including the packed lunches. The Ugandan people were warm and welcoming.
Many roads are being improved across the country making travel in some parts much easier. Off the tarmac, of course, it was rather different. This year the rains have been very heavy and continued later making dirt roads wet and muddy; there was a lot of flooding and progress was often slow. The biggest problem was trucks and tourist/taxi minibuses getting stuck and blocking the road. On a number of occasions we were grateful for Livingstone’s driving skills and long experience to get us out of a tricky situation - it certainly pays to have the right vehicle with the right tyres.
We got our Ugandan Shillings on arrival at the airport; it probably wasn’t the best exchange rate but it saved time the next morning. US Dollars, Euros and GB Pounds could be used in quite a few hotels and lodges but you do need some local currency.
ITINERARY
5 Nov Arrived Entebbe Airport at 22.30hrs, transfer to hotel. Boma Hotel, Entebbe
6 Nov Entebbe to Kafu farmland area and Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary with several stops on route. Late afternoon Lodge grounds. Amuka Safari Lodge, Ziwa
7 Nov Morning rhino tracking and walking in Ziwa Sanctuary. Afternoon birding drive/walk in Ziwa Sanctuary. Amuka Safari Lodge, Ziwa
8 Nov Ziwa Sanctuary and main road through Kafu farmland. On to Masindi. Masindi Hotel
9 Nov Early birding grasslands and cultivations on route to Royal Mile, Budongo Forest Reserve. Late afternoon grassland and cultivations. Masindi Hotel
10 Nov Drive to Kaniyo Pabidi, Budongo Forest. Several stops on route before walk in forest. Afternoon to the Falls at Murchison and on to Lodge. Murchison River Lodge
11 Nov Morning boat along Nile to delta and edge of Lake Albert. Afternoon driving Buligi circuit Murchison Falls NP. Late afternoon around Lodge. Murchison River Lodge
12 Nov Morning in Murchison Falls NP. Afternoon Lodge grounds. Murchison River Lodge
13 Nov Morning Murchison Falls NP, short stop by swamp outside NP then on to Gulu town. The Bomah Hotel, Gulu
14 Nov Morning drive to Kidepo NP. Afternoon around camp. Evening drive from camp to edge of NP. Savannah Lodge, Kidepo
15 Nov Morning drive Narus and Kidepo valleys. Afternoon around camp. Late afternoon/evening drive in Park. Savannah Lodge, Kidepo
16 Nov Morning drive in Narus valley. Early afternoon around camp. Late afternoon/evening drive in Park to Apoka Lodge/Bandas area. Savannah Lodge, Kidepo
17 Nov Morning drive in Narus valley. Early afternoon around camp. Late afternoon/evening drive in Narus valley. Savannah Lodge, Kidepo
18 Nov Morning drive in Narus valley. Afternoon-evening walking in camp. Savannah Lodge, Kidepo
19 Nov Whole day driving south to Pian-Upe Wildlife Reserve. Karamoja Overland Safaris Tented Camp, Pian-Upe
20 Nov Morning drive in eastern Pian-Upe WR. Afternoon around camp. Evening roadside birding Pian-Upe. Karamoja Overland Safaris Tented Camp, Pian-Upe
21 Nov Morning roadside birding Pian-Upe. Afternoon around camp. Evening walk in wider camp area. Karamoja Overland Safaris Tented Camp, Pian-Upe
22 Nov Morning driving south through Pian-Upe then on to Jinja town. Gately on Nile, Jinja.
23 Nov Morning-mid afternoon Mabira Forest. Afternoon Gately hotel grounds. Gately on Nile, Jinja.
24 Nov Morning around Jinja then on to Entebbe via Kampala. Afternoon Boma Hotel grounds. Boma Hotel, Entebbe
25 Nov Morning birding at Entebbe Wildlife Education Centre. Early afternoon Boma Hotel grounds. Mid-afternoon/evening Botanical Gardens. Boma Hotel, Entebbe
26 Nov Day around Boma Hotel grounds. Evening transfer to airport.
DIARY
Tuesday 5th November
Arrived Entebbe airport 22.30hrs and transferred to The Boma Hotel, Entebbe for one night stay.
Wednesday 6th November Entebbe to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary
After a good night’s sleep we had a short walk in the grounds of The Boma, starting our bird list with some nice species. Species around The Boma included: Hadeda; Red-eyed Dove; Eastern Plantain-eater; Ross’s Turaco; Dark-capped Bulbul; Red-chested Sunbird and Northern Brown-throated Weaver.
Livingstone arrived at 07.00hrs as we finished our hearty cooked breakfast; we were soon on our way, skirting Kampala on the newly-opened, traffic-free motorway, then north towards Luwero and heading for Ziwa. It was an interesting journey through towns and villages, passing swamps, cultivations, scrub and woodland. It was warm but often cloudy with occasional brief spells of light rain. We stopped several times for a little birding (Lizard Buzzard, Marsh Widowbird, Crowned Crane) as well as finding a nice leafy spot to eat our packed lunch of chicken salad sandwiches, yogurt, Mars bars (!) and mango juice. Species on route included: Yellow-billed Duck; Saddlebilled, Marabou and African Openbill Storks; Hadeda; Black-headed Heron; Hamerkop; Pink-backed Pelican; White-breasted and Reed Cormorants; Yellow-billed Kite; Hooded and Palm-nut Vultures; Brown Snake Eagle; Long-crested and Wahlberg’s Eagles; Lizard Buzzard; Dark Chanting Goshawk; Grey Crowned Crane; Blue-spotted Wood Dove; Eastern Plantain-eater; White-rumped Swift; Broad-billed Roller; Pied, Woodland, Grey-headed and Striped Kingfishers; Little Bee-eater; Greater Honeyguide (HEARD only); African Paradise Flycatcher; Tropical Boubou; Fork-tailed Drongo; Barn Swallow; Moustached Grass Warbler; Winding Cisticola; Rüppell’s Starling; Northern Grey-headed Sparrow; White-browed Scrub Robin; Pale Flycatcher; House Sparrow; Weyns’s, Black-headed, Golden-backed and Village Weavers; Fan-tailed and Marsh Widowbirds; Bronze Mannikin. Vervet Monkey; Nile Monitor (DEAD on road).
By about 14.00hrs we reached the turning for Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary but rather than check in straight away we turned off the main highway and spent 1½hrs birding along the road towards Masindi, through the Kafu farmland. The Kafu river was very high and a vast area was flooded but the tarmac road was clear. Species along Kafu road included: Common Sandpiper; Blue-headed Coucal; Speckled Mousebird; African Grey Hornbill; Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird; White-headed Barbet; European Bee-eater; Grey Kestrel; Meyer’s Parrot; Grey-backed Fiscal; Piapiac; African Yellow White-eye; Bronze-tailed and Lesser Blue-eared Starlings; White-browed Sparrow-Weaver ; Little, Vieillot’s and Red-headed Weavers; Black-winged Red Bishop; Yellow-throated Longclaw.
Having gained a decent bird list already, we turned back and drove to Amuka Lodge in Ziwa Sanctuary. At the gate we were told the main route through was blocked by a truck stuck on the flooded track and we had to go the long way round - we’re pleased we did as we had a brief view of a Black-bellied Bustard in flight. All the tracks were very muddy with lots of big, deep pools. Amuka Lodge is nicely set out with individual spacious cottages nestled amongst trees and bushes. The bar/lounge/dining area, too, was spacious and comfortable with an open kitchen so you could see the food being prepared. There is a small pool and garden. Staff were helpful and friendly. Lunch seemed a long time ago and we were ready to enjoy tonight’s dinner: pumpkin soup followed by braised beef with rice, carrots and green beans then a chocolate brownie-style desert. Very nice. Species around Ziwa included: Helmeted Guineafowl; Crested Francolin; Black-bellied Bustard; Vinaceous Dove; Nubian Woodpecker; Double-toothed Barbet; Brown-crowned Tchagra; Northern Puffback; Black-headed Gonolek; White-shouldered Tit; Northern Black Flycatcher; Collared and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds; Red-headed and Little Weavers; Black-winged Red Bishop. Bushbuck; Common Duiker.
Thursday 7th November Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary
06.15hrs breakfast then off to the Visitor Centre for a short “rhino” briefing. This long-term White Rhino re-introduction programme is well managed by the Uganda Rhino Fund and Uganda Wildlife Authority. The animals are free to roam over a vast area, some 7,000 hectares, so there was no guarantee we would see any. We were allocated a ranger (Martin) and told we had a short drive to reach the location where some rhinos were resting. Short drive? It was two minutes! They were just lying in the grass in two separate grey “heaps”, like a small rocky outcrop!! It was two family groups, adult females with their latest calves and juveniles - 9 rhinos! We stood under a tree (there was a little rain) opposite them, mesmerised. One group roused and wandered off along the track. The young male from the still-sleeping group got up and followed the others a short way, calling; a strange weak, squeaky “whine”, not what you would expect from such a big animal. He soon returned to his group, still whining and trying to get the others up and moving. The ranger told us the young male was not this female’s calf but had been “adopted” by her when his own mother had ousted him when her next calf was due - normal behaviour in this species. When the group eventually left we walked further along the track and soon saw another female with a boisterous month-old calf. They disappeared from sight and we walked on through waist-high grass.
Unbelievably, 10 minutes later, we saw yet another female with an older calf that was suckling. 13 rhinos in one morning. OK, it’s a reintroduction programme but several of the 13 were born here, in freedom, and we were very lucky to see so many. White rhinos are much calmer than Black and the animals we saw were fairly relaxed in our presence but, pleasingly, they are not “tame”. We later learnt that other people from our lodge arrived later than us and spent their morning at a fast walk trying to catch up with one rhino group and had only rather distant views as the animals dispersed to feed and drink. So, well worth that early start. There is much more to Ziwa than rhinos, though, and we saw Bushbuck, Common Duiker, Guereza Colobus and a splendid range of birds (White-crested Turaco, Double-toothed and Spot-flanked Barbets, Bar-breasted Firefinch amongst them) and insects, especially dragonflies. A variety of frogs were calling everywhere and we spent a while trying to identify the many tracks in the mud (mongoose, squirrels, a small cat .... ) We returned to the lodge for lunch and a stroll around the grounds then met up with our guide for an afternoon’s birding - and very successful it was, too, with highlights including a roosting Verreaux’s Eagle Owl, a better view of Black-bellied Bustard in flight and a perched Martial Eagle. It was almost 18.00hrs when we got back to the lodge.
Species in the Sanctuary included: Helmeted Guineafowl; African Wattled Lapwing; Black-bellied Bustard; African Harrier Hawk; Martial, Tawny and Wahlberg’s Eagles; Bateleur; Common and Lizard Buzzards; Dark Chanting Goshawk; Vinaceous Dove; Eastern Plantain-eater; Meyer’s Parrot; Brown-throated Wattle-eye; Grey-headed (HEARD only) and Orange-breasted Bushshrikes; Fork-tailed Drongo; Spot-flanked and Double-toothed Barbet; Striped Kingfisher; White-crested and Ross’s Turacos; Verreaux’s Eagle Owl; Speckled Mousebird; African Hoopoe; African Palm Swift; African Grey Hornbill; Northern Puffback; Black-headed and African Golden Orioles; Dark-capped Bulbul; Piapiac Violet-backed, Rüppell’s, Splendid and Lesser Blue-eared Starlings; Grey Tit-flycatcher; Bar-breasted Firefinch; Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu; Bronze Mannikin; African Pied Wagtail. White Rhinoceros; Bushbuck; Common Duiker; Guereza Colobus; Tantalus monkey.
Species around the lodge included: Crested Francolin; Northern Black Flycatcher; Bronze-tailed Starling; Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird; Woodland Kingfisher.
Friday 8th November Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary - Masindi
There was no rush to leave today and we spent an hour birding around camp before breakfast. We had a long drive through the sanctuary finding plenty of birds including Yellow-throated Leaflove, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Western Banded and Brown Snake Eagles, African Harrier Hawk and Dark Chanting Goshawk, thousands of butterflies, 20+ Bushbuck, a dozen Common Duikers and a Bunyuro rabbit. Last night’s rain had made the going even worse but staff were out with their spades getting the water off the tracks and building it up with rocks and stones. They’ve got a lot to do.
After leaving Ziwa we travelled slowly along the road through the Kafu farmland towards Masindi, again finding plenty of birds. Water levels were higher this morning with cultivated land under water, the sorghum and maize crops ruined. The farm workers come from far afield to live in tiny mud huts along the road edge - they were flooded out and had built new huts on the other side of the road but the water was still rising and now these new huts were in danger of flooding, too. Everyone was up to their ankles in wet, sloppy mud; there is nowhere else to go. It was a very sorry sight. The area was covered in thousands of White-winged Terns and a variety of sandpipers and kingfishers but it was sobering to see so many people in trouble. One man was wading shoulder-high amongst the flooded crops carrying two ears of maize. Further on, the scrub and open woods were also flooded. As we moved further towards Masindi there was more devastation in the countryside - this time it was miles and miles of deliberate destruction, clearing and burning in preparation for SUGAR CANE farms. Totally depressing. We were relieved to reach Masindi even though it absolutely poured with rain as we arrived. The first birds we saw in town were Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills! The Masindi Hotel is under new management since our last visit and it shows: our room had an improved bathroom, a new mattress, the dining room was smarter, the food was good and service was competent and friendly.
Species today included: Helmeted Guineafowl; Black-headed and Squacco Herons; Little and Cattle Egrets; Marabou Stork; Sacred Ibis; Hadeda; Spur-winged and Wattled Lapwings; Yellow-billed Kite; Wahlberg’s Eagle; Western Banded and Brown Snake Eagles; African Harrier Hawk; Common Buzzard; Dark Chanting Goshawk; Shikra; Common Sandpiper; White-winged Tern; Vinaceous and Laughing Doves; White-crested and Ross’s Turacos; Eastern Plantain-eater; African Palm and White-rumped Swifts; Speckled and Blue-naped Mousebirds; Grey-headed and Pied Kingfishers; Broad-billed Roller; White-headed and Double-toothed Barbets; Barn Swallow; Plain-backed Pipit; African Grey and Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills; Yellow-throated Leaflove; African Thrush; Whistling, Croaking and Short-winged Cisticolas; Tawny-flanked Prinia; Grey-capped Warbler; Pale and Northern Black Flycatchers; Brown-backed Scrub Robin; Brown Babbler; White-shouldered Tit; Grey-backed Fiscal; Black-headed Gonolek; Fork-tailed Drongo; Piapiac; Pied Crow; Bronze-tailed, Splendid and Rüppell’s Starlings; Black-headed Batis; Marico and Purple-banded Sunbirds; Yellow-shouldered Widowbird; Holub’s, Village and Red-headed Weavers; Grey-headed Sparrow; White-crowned Sparrow-weaver. Bushbuck; Common Duiker; Bunyuro Rabbit.
Saturday 9th November Masindi to Royal Mile
06.00hrs breakfast (very nice, plenty of choice) and away by 06.40hrs. First was a long stop in grassland and cultivations with many birds - the best perhaps were Brown Twinspot, Orange-breasted Waxbills and a range of Widowbirds and Wydahs. Then we moved on to the cool, green Royal Mile in Budongo forest. We were here in 2017 and expectations were naturally high; we were not disappointed! It’s a fabulous walk with so many special birds and butterflies constantly demanding attention; it’s hard to know just where to look. One of the highlights was a pair of Shining-blue Kingfishers bringing food to a nest. Other great birds included White-thighed Hornbill, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, the confusingly-similar Western Nicator and Spotted Greenbul, Lemon-bellied Crombec, Yellow-spotted Barbet. We ended the walk at the almost overflowing stream where hundreds of different butterfly species were swarming across the wet mud. Our guide today was Ronald, accompanied by a trainee, Patrick; we appreciated their knowledge of both birds and butterflies. We left the Royal Mile around 16.00hrs allowing time to return to the grassland and cultivations; Yellow-mantled Widowbirds and Brimstone Canaries put on a good performance. Back in Masindi there was a storm followed by a short power cut.
Species around the grassland and cultivations included: Wahlberg’s Eagle; Lizard Buzzard; Grey Kestrel; African Green Pigeon; Broad-billed Roller; Woodland Kingfisher; Brown-backed Scrub Robin; Red-backed Shrike; Whistling and Red-faced Cisticolas; Tawny-flanked Prinia; Splendid and Chestnut-winged Starlings; Whinchat; Spectacled, Yellow-backed, Vieillot’s Black and Village Weavers; Yellow-mantled and Red-collared Widowbirds; Pin-tailed Whydah; Black Bishop; Brown Twinspot; Orange-breasted Waxbill; Yellow Wagtail; Plain-backed Pipit; Brimstone Canary.
Species along the Royal Mile included: Tambourine Dove; Narina Trogon; Chocolate-backed, Pygmy and Shining-blue Kingfishers; White-thighed and Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills; Yellow-throated Tinkerbird; Yellow-spotted Barbet; Yellow-crested Woodpecker; Chestnut Wattle-eye; Western Oriole; Western Nicator; Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher; Spotted, Little Grey, White-throated, and Little Greenbuls; Yellow-whiskered Bulbul; Lemon-bellied Crombec; Chestnut-capped Flycatcher; Uganda Woodland Warbler; Olive-green Camaroptera; Rufous-crowned Eremomela; Blue-throated Brown and Little Green Sunbirds; Thick-billed Weaver; Grey-headed Nigrita. Blue Monkey; Bőhm’s and Red-legged Squirrels.
Sunday 10th November Masindi to Kaniyo Pabidi and Murchison Falls
First thing this morning there was another big storm and a heavy downpour but it cleared by the time we were ready to load our bags into the vehicle. Our first stop was not far out of town at a small disused quarry adjacent to overgrown cultivated field with lots of birds such as Grey-headed Oliveback and Red-headed Lovebirds. We continued on towards the Kaniyo Pabidi sector of Murchison Falls NP, picking up more species on the way. Species included: Lizard Buzzard; White-browed and Blue-headed Coucals; Eastern Plantain-eater; Red-headed Lovebird; Red-throated, White-throated and Olive Bee-eaters; Tropical Boubou; Brown Babbler; Snowy-crowned and White-browed Robin-Chats; Brown-crowned Tchagra; Singing and Red-faced Cisticolas; Black-bellied and Red-billed Firefinches; Brown Twinspot; Grey-headed Oliveback; Vieillot's Black Weaver; Black Bishop; Western Citril; Yellow-fronted Canary.
We spent a few hours at Kaniyo Pabidi accompanied by a keen, knowledgeable local guide, Robert. There was much less bird activity than on our 2017 visit but we enjoyed what we did see (especially the Forest Robin) and, to be honest, it was nice to have time to look at everything else in the forest. We were surrounded by hordes of different butterflies all the way and Robert could name many of them. Cicadas were almost deafening and, miraculously, we even managed to see one! Species at Kaniyo Pabidi included: Olive Sunbird; Grey Tit-Flycatcher; Slender-billed Greenbul; Green Crombec; Fraser’s Rufous Thrush; Yellow-mantled Weaver.
After lunch we were on our way to Murchison. One of Uganda’s many major roadworks is underway here and will be passing through the National Park. Everyone will have their own views on the pros and cons of such development; we found it rather depressing to be whizzing along the tarmac for much of the way from Kaniyo Pabidi to the top of the Falls. In 2017 our route-list was long and included roadside elephants, but not this time.
The roar of the water as we parked before the Falls was incredible and we were not surprised to see the raging waters very much higher than in 2017; an impressive sight. The expected small flock of Rock Pratincoles and numerous Red-headed Rock Agama lizards entertained us and a couple of Bateleurs floated overhead. We got soaked by spray.
Murchison River Lodge, on the south bank of the Nile, was our home for the next three nights. Having really enjoyed our stay here in 2017 we wondered if it would be as good this time - it was! Great location, good food, spacious, comfortable rooms and friendly staff.
Mon 11th to Tues 12th November Murchison Falls NP
On the first morning we took a boat trip along the Nile as far as “the delta” at Lake Albert; just the two of us and the same boatman we had in 2017. Hippos, hippos and more hippos. The numbers are very high! Lots of birds all the way (Swamp Flycatchers on papyrus stems, Senegal Thick-knees in the marshes, Kingfishers, Weavers, Herons and Egrets everywhere, Elephants on the bank, baboons in overhanging trees. At the edge of the lake our boatman stopped a few times to ask fisherman if they’d seen Shoebill recently. Of course the answer was “no”; we knew very well it was the wrong time of year, water levels were too high and we had no expectation of a sighting. It seemed strange there were very few terns around the delta - maybe they are all in the flooded areas between Ziwa and Masindi. Livingstone met us at the river side and we spent the rest of the day in the Park.
Species along the Nile included: White-breasted and Reed Cormorants; African Darter; Goliath Heron; Great Egret; Blue-headed, Senegal and White-browed Coucals; African Fish Eagle; Osprey; Pied Kingfisher; Swamp Flycatcher; Thick-billed, Slender-billed and Viteline Masked Weavers. Nile Crocodile; Nile Monitor Lizard; Hippopotamus; African Savanna Elephant; Olive Baboon; Nile Monitor.
With two half days and one full day in the Park we were able to really enjoy the prolific wildlife and fabulous scenery. One of the first sightings was three young lions resting on bare ground; the next day an adult male, obviously well-fed, started roaring and another quickly appeared and joined in. A variety of antelope were spread across the savanna, with Uganda Kob in very big numbers. Rothschild’s Giraffes were numerous as were Buffalo and Warthogs. Elephants were resting quietly under a shady tree. The range of birds was brilliant: many raptors, Shelley’s Sparrows, Denham’s Bustard, Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, Red-necked Falcons, Abyssinian Rollers, Jacobin Cuckoo, Qualifinches, Yellow-throated Longclaws, two Senegal Lapwings almost overlooked amongst a group of African Wattled Lapwings. The list grew and grew.
Species in Murchison NP included: Egyptian Goose; Heuglin’s Francolin; Helmeted Guineafowl; Marabou Stork; Osprey; Lappet-faced, White-backed and Palm-nut Vulture; African Fish Eagle; Bateleur; Tawny, Wahlberg’s and Long-crested Eagles; African Harrier Hawk; Montagu’s Harrier; Yellow-billed Kite; Black-winged Kite; Red-necked Falcon; Dark Chanting Goshawk; Grey Crowned Crane; Long-toed, Black-headed, Spur-winged and Senegal Lapwings; Green Sandpiper; African Jacana; Denham’s Bustard; Vinaceous and Mourning Collared Doves; Black-billed Wood Dove; Jacobin Cuckoo; Speckled Mousebird; Northern Carmine and Red-throated Bee-eaters; Grey-headed Kingfisher; Abyssinian Roller; Abyssinian Ground and African Grey Hornbills; Black-billed Barbet; Red-backed Shrike; Grey-backed Fiscal; Wire-tailed Swallow; Buff-bellied Warbler; Rattling and Zitting Cisticolas; Yellow-billed Oxpecker; Spotted Morning Thrush; Silverbird; Isabelline and Northern Wheatears; Sooty Chat; Shelley’s Sparrow; Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver; Speckle-fronted Weaver; Northern Red and Black-winged Red Bishops; Quailfinch; Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu; Western Yellow Wagtail. Lion; African Buffalo; Uganda Kob; Defassa Waterbuck; Lelwel Hartebeest; Oribi; Bohor Reedbuck; Rothschild’s Giraffe; Warthog; African Savanna Elephant; Patas Monkey; Olive Baboon; Bell’s Hingeback Tortoise.
Our lodge was on the south bank of the river and we used the ferry to reach the main game-viewing areas which, of course, has its disadvantages but the Wire-tailed Swallows zooming around the ferry, close views of Red-throated Bee-eaters and the delight on children’s faces as they see a hippo suddenly emerge close to the ferry were all worth seeing! However, the new road means a big bridge across the Nile and although not yet open for visitors it is finished and passable. Just as well, really, because one afternoon the ferry broke down.
On two afternoons we spent a few hours around Murchison River Lodge’s extensive grounds - birding here and looking across the river was great, especially the Klaas’s Cuckoo and Spot-flanked Barbet by our room and a Saddle-billed Stork nest-building on the opposite bank! Species around Murchison River Lodge included: Hadeda; Saddle-billed Stork; Black-winged Stilt; Mourning Collared Dove; Grey-headed Kingfisher; European Bee-eater; Klaas’s Cuckoo; Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird; Spot-flanked Barbet; Orange-breasted Bushshrike; Yellow-throated Leaflove; Dark-capped Bulbul; Yellow-breasted Apalis; Spotted Flycatcher; Pale Flycatcher; Northern Puffback; Black-crowned Gonolek; Village Weaver; Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu. Hippopotamus; Tantalus Monkey; Red-headed Rock Agama; Striped Skink; Tropical House Gecko.
Wednesday 13th November Murchison NP - Gulu
We caught the 07.00hrs ferry and had a slow drive through the Park, taking about 2 hours to reach the northern exit gate, seeing many of the same species with a few additions such as Crested Francolin and Black-bellied Bustard. A long trail of prints looked like Leopard (smaller and more rounded than lion). It wasn’t nice to see the amount of damage the new road construction is causing. Additional species on route out of Murchison: Crested Francolin; Black-bellied Bustard; Black-headed Heron; Piapiac; White-browed Robin-Chat; Yellow-mantled Widowbird.
Shortly after exiting the Park we stopped by a large expanse of wet grassland and swamp. To our utter amazement we could see a Shoebill. A bit distant but it was in the open and we had prolonged ‘scope views. Other highlights were Knob-billed Duck, the only Spur-winged Goose of the trip, Striated and Goliath Herons and Egyptian Vulture. While scanning through the flock of White-faced Whistling Ducks we got another surprise - very loud grunts and roars from just behind us! Several hippo heads had emerged from the water hyacinth-covered swamp on the other side of the road, at least 13 animals, very close to where we were standing. Almost unbelievable.
Species outside Murchison included: Spur-winged and Egyptian Geese; Knob-billed Duck; White-faced Whistling Duck; Shoebill; Goliath, Striated and Squacco Herons; Common Sandpiper; African Jacana; African Fish Eagle; Palm-nut and Egyptian Vultures; Marsh Harrier; Grey Kestrel; Spur-winged Lapwing; Blue-headed Coucal; Pied Kingfisher; Little Bee-eater; Pin-tailed Whydah; Mourning Collared Dove and Black-rumped Waxbill. Hippopotamus; Warthog.
It was time for the drive to Gulu town. For the first hour or so we were on the edge of the Park and the buffer zone and we saw elephants as well as many birds but gradually the habitat changed and most of the big trees were gone. Cultivation was low-key and communities were mostly small clusters of half a dozen straw-roofed huts. It was slow-going on the pot-holed tarmac road; after a while the tiny villages gave way to small towns and at Olwiyo we turned off towards Gulu. A big sign in the road proclaimed “Road Ahead Closed” Oh dear, the alternative is a very long route. Locals assured us it was now open so we continued. There had been floods and the road was in a poor state but we managed to get round the more difficult sections where trucks had been stuck. We saw several Black-winged Kites along this stretch.
Gulu is the largest town in northern Uganda and was very busy so we were relieved to find our hotel was in a quiet, residential area. It’s a large business hotel and we were in the new block - clean and comfortable, overlooking a large swimming pool and gardens. The restaurant had a good menu (such as tilapia and chips with coleslaw and tartar sauce!) An excellent overnight stop to break our journey. Towards dusk the sky filled with many hundreds of Straw-coloured Fruit Bats leaving their roost somewhere near the city; we watched them for more than 20 minutes, streaming overhead.
Thursday 14th November Gulu to Kidepo Valley National Park
Breakfast at 06.00hrs and soon we were on the way to Kidepo National Park. There was a heavy mist that was slow to clear but we eventually we saw plenty of birds on route to Kitgum and at several roadside stops including a flock of 200+ Abdim’s Storks resting by a river and both Bruce’s and African Green Pigeons. Species between Gulu and Kitgum included: Abdim’s Stork; Black-winged Kite; Wahlberg’s Eagle; Lizard Buzzard; Eastern Plantain-eater; Red-eyed and Vinaceous Doves; African and Bruce’s Green Pigeons; Grey-backed Shrike; Village and Heuglin’s Masked Weavers; Red-billed Firefinch; Fawn-breasted Waxbill.
The tarmac ended at Kitgum and the dirt road was very wet and muddy. After about 15 minutes the road was blocked by two vehicles stuck in deep mud, one a big truck, the other a fuel tanker. We got out of our vehicle and left Livingstone to get through a very narrow gap between the two vehicles - he did it in one! As we got further east the scenery changed with rocky hills and outcrops rising above thick bush country. Sorghum and cotton was being grown in small patches with rough, uncultivated land in between. It seemed to be a much drier habitat in general, although recent rain had left the dirt roads very muddy. Along the roadside we often saw Brown and Black-chested Snake Eagles and Abyssinian Rollers were fairly frequent. Reaching the Karamoja region it became more hilly, then almost mountainous with steep, rugged slopes, more trees and altogether very scenic. There was a tantalizing view of a Fox Kestrel that disappeared too quickly. Kidepo Valley National Park is surrounded by an extinct range of volcanic mountains stretching for miles. The last stretch leading to Savannah Lodge was scenic and very beautiful. The Lodge is ideally situated on a ridge overlooking the Narus Valley, it’s well-run by highly-trained staff who know exactly what they need to do. Accommodation is either large, comfortable tents with attached shower and toilet, or slightly smaller tents with a shared ablution block. The restaurant/bar/lounge area is high above the valley with stunning views. It feels very remote but is extremely comfortable and relaxing. The calls of White-bellied Go-away-birds and Green Woodhoopoes were a constant background sound around the camp. Late this afternoon we drove along the track below camp and into the first stretch of the Park. Clapperton's Francolins were gathering on the tracks and Swamp Nightjars were flying and calling. We ended our day with a delicious 5-course dinner listening to the night sounds all around us.
Species Gulu-Savannah Lodge-Kidepo NP included: Clapperton’s Francolin; Brown and Black-chested Snake Eagles; Bateleur; Yellow-billed Kite; Dark Chanting and Gabar Goshawks; Fox Kestrel; Myer’s Parrot; African Palm Swift; Abyssinian Roller; Green Woodhoopoe; Eurasian Hoopoe; African Grey Hornbill; White-browed Coucal; Swamp Nightjar; White-bellied Go-away-bird; Flappet Lark; Grey-backed Fiscal; Black-crowned Tchagra; Pale Flycatcher; African Yellow White-eye; Piapiac; Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu; Bar-breasted Firefinch; Black-winged Red Bishop; Heuglin’s Weaver; Parrot-billed Sparrow; Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow. African Savanna/Scrub Hare; African Savanna Elephant; Defassa Waterbuck; Lelwel Hartebeest.
Fri 15th to Mon 18th November Kidepo Valley National Park
We had four full days in Kidepo Park, giving us plenty of time to explore all the habitats. Many tracks were very wet and a good vehicle was essential. Few tourists come here and most of the time in the park we couldn’t see another vehicle, let alone meet one. Wildlife is flourishing and we saw big numbers of Buffalo and a range of antelope including Bright’s Gazelle, Eland and colonies of Rock Hyrax. No cats but that’s hardly surprising at this time of year with the grass being so high. Birdlife was prolific - we were delighted to see 4 Secretarybirds in one morning as well as Common Ostrich, Black-faced Sandgrouse, White-headed Vulture, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Fan-tailed Raven, White-bellied Tit and Swamp Nightjars. Freckled Nightjars were calling each night but only gave us occasional brief views. As it borders South Sudan the park is patrolled by military personnel and they also have a presence in the lodges; reassuring in such a remote, little-populated area. Our routine was to have an early morning walk around camp and after breakfast drive into the Park, either to the far side, Kidepo Valley, or around Narus Valley then back for lunch and a few hours relaxing by the tent watching birds in the surrounding trees (White-crested Turaco, White bellied Go-away-bird, Jackson’s Hornbill, Cinnamon-chested Bunting; Hunter’s Sunbird.....), antelope, elephants and zebras on the savanna below and clouds of butterflies around the tent, then late afternoon until after dark driving a short way into the Park. It was an idyllic few days, exactly what we’d hoped for.
Species around the lodge and in the Park included: Common Ostrich; Helmeted Guineafowl; Crested and Clapperton’s Francolins; Abdim’s and White Storks; Black-headed Heron; Secretarybird; Hooded, White-backed, White-headed and Lappet-faced Vultures; Black-chested and Brown Snake Eagles; Bateleur; Martial, Long-crested, Wahlberg’s and Tawny Eagles; Lizard and Augur Buzzards; Eastern Chanting Goshawk; African Marsh, Pallid and Montagu’s Harriers; Yellow-billed Kite; Fox, Lesser and Grey Kestrels; Black-bellied Bustard; Black Crake; African Wattled and Black-headed Lapwings; Marsh and Wood Sandpipers; Common Snipe; Black-faced Sandgrouse; Namaqua and Laughing Doves; Bruce’s and African Green Pigeons; White-crested Turaco; White-bellied Go-away-bird; Eastern Plantain-eater; Senegal and White-browed Coucals; African Scops Owl (HEARD only); Swamp and Freckled Nightjars; African Palm Swift; Blue-naped and Speckled Mousebirds; Purple and Abyssinian Rollers; Swallow-tailed Bee-eater; Eurasian Hoopoe; Green Woodhoopoe; Black and Abyssinian Scimitarbills; Abyssinian Ground Hornbill; Jackson’s, Northern Red-billed and African Grey Hornbills; Spot-flanked, White-headed and D’Arnaud’s Barbets; Nubian and African Grey Woodpeckers; Meyer’s Parrot; Rose-ringed Parakeet; Western Black-headed Batis; Black-crowned Tchagra; Slate-coloured Boubou; White-crested Helmet-Shrike; Yellow-billed and Northern White-crowned Shrikes; Black-headed Oriole; Fan-tailed Raven; White-bellied Tit; Red-winged and Rufous-naped Larks; Northern Crombec; Red-pate, Stout, Croaking, Foxy and Zitting Cisticolas; Tawny-flanked Prinia; Grey-backed Camaroptera; Wattled, Lesser Blue-eared, Bronze-tailed, Rüppell’s and Superb Starlings; Red-billed and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers; Pale, African Grey, and Ashy Flycatchers; Silverbird; Whinchat; Sooty and Familiar Chats; Isabelline, Pied and Northern Wheatears; Hunter’s and Purple-banded Sunbirds; Parrot-billed Sparrow; Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow; White-headed Buffalo Weaver; White-browed Sparrow-Weaver; Grey-capped Social Weaver; Speckle-fronted and Heuglin’s Weavers; Black-winged Red Bishop; Cut-throat Finch; Plain-backed and Tree Pipits; Yellow-fronted Canary; Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.
Olive Baboon; Patas Monkey; Plains Zebra; Common Warthog; Rothschild’s Giraffe; African Buffalo; Common Eland; Oribi; Bohor Reedbuck; Uganda Kob; Defassa Waterbuck; Bright’s Gazelle; Lelwel Hartebeest; African Savanna Elephant; Side-striped Jackal; Yellow-spotted Bush Hyrax; African Savanna/Scrub Hare; Dwarf Mongoose; Striped Ground Squirrel; Gambian Sun Squirrel; “zebra” mice; Leopard TRACKS; Speckle-lipped Skink; Striped Skink; Tropical House Gecko.
Tuesday 19th November Kidepo to Pian-Upe Wildlife Reserve
After breakfast we drove slowly through Kidepo to the southern exit, stopping frequently and finding our fifth Secretarybird, a small group of Eland, rutting Reedbuck and mating Oribi, an endless procession of Buffalo, a herd of Elephants with four tiny calves..... and the constant background sound of White-bellied Go-away-birds. So many things to remember from Kidepo both sights and sounds.
The rest of our journey southwards through Karamoja district down to Pian-Upe was full of superb scenery, interesting culture and many birds, including 17 species of raptor. For the first 3 hrs or more we were close to the ring of extinct volcanoes, some with steep, jagged peaks, others richly cloaked in vegetation. For miles and miles there were very few towns just lots of tiny settlements. Most people waved as we passed, just a few seeming a little less friendly. There was no rain this morning but as we had come to expect, there was mud everywhere and we were again pleased to be travelling in such a good vehicle with an experienced driver. We crossed several new, large bridges over fast-flowing rivers. On reaching the start of two huge protected areas (Matheniko and Bokora Game Reserves that join up with Pian-Upe to the south) bushland stretched as far as the eye could see. We had a close view of a perched Augur Buzzard followed by an unsatisfactory view of what was almost certainly an Eastern Chanting Goshawk that didn’t hang around for long. Our lunch stop gave us sightings of Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Rufous Chatterer and White-headed Buffalo Weaver. With the impressive outline of Mount Moroto rising in the distance we made a detour to the region’s main town, Moroto, to top up with fuel. On the edge of town a Black-winged Kite was down on the middle of the road; thinking it may have been hit by a car we turned back hoping to at least get it off the highway. As we pulled up beside it, it flew off! There were at least another 5 of in the area. A fairly large bird caught our eye as it flew to a roadside tree: an adult Great Spotted Cuckoo.
Species on route included: Clapperton’s Francolin; Helmeted Guineafowl; Great Spotted Cuckoo; Laughing and Namaqua Doves; African and Bruce’s Green Pigeons; Spur-winged Plover; Green Sandpiper; Hamerkop; Black-winged Kite; White-backed and Rüppell’s Vultures; Black-breasted and Brown Snake Eagles; Wahlberg’s and Tawny Eagles; Bateleur; African and Eastern Chanting Goshawks; Montagu’s Harrier; Yellow-billed Kite; Augur and Common Buzzards; Fox, Lesser and Grey Kestrels; Blue-naped and Speckled Mousebirds; Abyssinian and Black Scimitarbills; Abyssinian Ground Hornbill; African Grey Hornbill; Purple and Abyssinian Rollers; D’Arnaud’s Barbet; Great Spotted Cuckoo; Meyer’s Parrot; Black-crowned Tchagra; Black-headed Gonolek; Yellow-billed, Northern White-crowned and Grey-backed Fiscal Shrikes; Fork-tailed Drongo; Piapiac; Fan-tailed Raven; Red-winged Lark; Croaking Cisticola; Yellow-bellied Eremomela; Rufous Chatterer; Lesser Blue-eared, Rüppell’s and Superb Starlings; African Thrush; Silverbird; Sooty Chat; Isabelline and Northern Wheatears; Beautiful Sunbird; Speckle-fronted Weaver; White-headed Buffalo Weaver; White-browed and Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weavers; Northern Red Bishop; Plain-backed Pipit; Reichenow’s Seedeater; Yellow-fronted Canary.
When we turned off towards Pian-Upe the scenery became even more stunning as we dropped down through a lush, green landscape of craggy, tree-covered mountains. It was about 18.00hrs when we reached the reserve HQ. We stayed in large tents with attached shower and loo rather than the small bandas by the park HQ. Although not as well-kept as those at Kidepo, the tents were comfortable and spacious in a lovely spot, very quiet with endless views of the reserve. The camp cook, Robert, looked after us well and our meals were served in a small thatched dining/lounge area near the tents. Greyish Eagle Owls were calling as we settled down for the night.
Wed 20th - Thurs 21st November Pian-Upe
On both days we had a breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage and toast followed by fresh fruit - exceeding expectations. On the first day one of the Rangers, Daniel, joined us for a morning’s drive. The western side of the reserve was too wet and we could only enter the eastern sector. We needed Daniel’s knowledge to make sure we used the better tracks although even these were waterlogged in places and it would be so easy to get stuck in this black cotton soil. Vegetation was so high we didn’t expect to see may mammals but a herd of 60+ Roan antelope was fantastic and we often saw Patas Monkey and Lelwel Hartebeest, occasionally groups of Warthog, Defassa Waterbuck and Oribi. Birding was excellent - a Lanner Falcon with prey was perched on a small tree. We disturbed many “buttonquail” as we drove slowly through the grass - it took a while to work out they were two species: Harlequin Quail and Common Buttonquail. Having failed to see Karamoja Apalis in Kidepo it never occurred to us to even search for them here. We saw three on the first morning in the eastern sector then another two close to the road next day; all were on small, spindly Whistling Thorns. Both Daniel and Livingstone were amazed by so many sightings. The rest of our time was spent either birding from the main roadside or walking in the vicinity of camp which was very productive (Grasshopper Buzzard, Fox Kestrel, Black Coucal, Flappet and White-tailed Larks, Singing Bush Lark, White-headed Barbet, Moustached Grass Warbler, Buff-bellied Warbler, Green-backed Eremomela, Common Rock Thrush, Chestnut Sparrow and much more). Early afternoon in camp was also enjoyable with Mosque Swallow, Cape Robin-Chat, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Spot-flanked Barbet, Northern Crombec, Grey-backed Camaroptera, African Paradise Flycatcher, Silverbird and Pale Flycatcher in the tree beside our tent, a Red-headed Weaver building a nest above our veranda, several sightings of an Eastern Chanting Goshawk from the tent and a “flock” of six Willow Warblers in a small tree.
One evening there was a big storm and it absolutely poured down as we left the dining tent (umbrellas available). The frogs loved it and a number of species were in full voice for a couple of hours. In the morning we woke to thick, heavy mist - almost fog! Everything in the tent was damp but of course the sun came out later and all was dry within no time.
Species around Pian-Upe included: Clapperton’s Francolin; Harlequin Quail; Eastern Plantain-eater; White-browed and Black Coucals; Namaqua and Laughing Doves; African and Bruce’s Green Pigeons; Common Buttonquail; Green and Wood Sandpipers; White and Marabou Storks; African Sacred Ibis; Intermediate Egret; Black-winged Kite; Rüppell’s Vulture; Eastern Chanting Goshawk; Shikra; Grasshopper and Common Buzzards; Lesser and Fox Kestrels; Lanner Falcon; Greyish Eagle Owl (HEARD only); Blue-naped Mousebird; Green Woodhoopoe; Abyssinian Scimitarbill; Abyssinian Ground Hornbill; Purple, Abyssinian and Lilac-breasted Rollers; Striped Kingfisher; Little Bee-eater; D’Arnaud’s, White-headed and Spot-flanked Barbets; Nubian and Cardinal Woodpeckers; Myer’s Parrot; Western Black-headed Batis; Black-crowned Tchagra; Northern Puffback; Black-headed Gonolek; White-crested Helmet-Shrike; Brubru; Yellow-billed, Grey-backed Fiscal and Northern White-crowned Shrikes; Black-headed Oriole; African Paradise Flycatcher; Flappet and White-tailed Larks; Singing Bush Lark; Mosque Swallow; Moustached Grass Warbler; Northern Crombec; Eastern Olivaceous Warbler; Rattling, Croaking, Red-pate, Short-winged and Foxy Cisticolas; Tawny-flanked Prinia; Buff-bellied Warbler; Karamoja Apalis; Willow Warbler; Grey-backed Camaroptera; Green-backed and Yellow-bellied Eremomelas; Garden Warbler; Northern Yellow White-eye; Greater and Lesser Blue-eared Starlings; Bronze-tailed, Rüppell’s and Violet-backed Starlings; Yellow-billed Oxpecker; African Thrush; Pale, African Grey and Spotted Flycatchers; Silverbird; Cape Robin-Chat; Common Rock Thrush; Whinchat; Isabelline and Northern Wheatears; Hunter’s, Purple-banded and Beautiful Sunbirds; Shelley’s and Chestnut Sparrows; Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow; Speckle-fronted Weaver; Baglafecht’s, Heuglin’s, Little and Red-headed Weavers; Red-billed Quelea; Fawn-breasted Waxbill; Quailfinch; Yellow-throated Longclaw; Plain-backed and Tree Pipits; Reichenow’s Seedeater; Yellow-fronted Canary. Patas Monkey; Warthog; Roan Antelope; Oribi; Defassa Waterbuck; Lelwel Hartebeest; Spotted Hyena (TRACKS only); Tropical House Gecko; Chevron-throated Dwarf Gecko.
Friday 22nd November Pian-Upe to Jinja
We had a short walk around camp before breakfast (Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver, Cape Robin-Chat, Hunter’s Sunbird) then took a very slow drive southwards through the Reserve along the extremely wet and deeply rutted dirt road; two vehicles were completely stuck in the mud. There were nice views of D’Arnaud’s Barbet, Red-Pate Cisticola, Bronze-tailed Starling and Patas Monkey and we stopped for a while by the Kaleni river at the southern exit of the reserve to watch a busy colony of Little Swifts.
Species in Pian-Upe included: Hamerkop; Hadeda; Wood and Green Sandpipers; Black-winged Kite; D’Arnaud’s Barbet; Eastern Chanting Goshawk; Namaqua Dove; Flappet Lark; Little Swift; Little Bee-eater; Red-pate and Short-winged Cisticolas; Yellow-billed Shrike; Cape Robin-Chat; Bronze-tailed Starling; Hunter’s Sunbird; Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver. Patas Monkey.
Saying “akuni-ya” to Pian-Upe (“goodbye” in the local Karamajong language) we started the long but interesting drive to Jinja and were soon passing a vast area of flat, marshy land below the lower slopes of Mount Elgon and stretches of rice, sorghum, cotton and sunflowers. In some places cultivation was mechanised with small and medium-sized vehicles. Lots of waterfalls were cascading down the mountain, we passed small settlements, villages, occasional towns and too many eucalyptus plantations. At Bulambuli there were big signs announcing “Aid for Landslide Victims” and soon we saw a mass of neat, tin-roofed new houses, each with a little plot of land. This region is prone to landslides, exacerbated by a growing population clearing the slopes of trees for cultivation and to build houses. In 2018 and 2019 extremely heavy rains took their toll with many hillside villages swept away and lives lost. The government has begun a programme of resettlement with hundreds of people already in new homes, some in temporary camps and thousands still living precariously under the threat of more landslides. Each family group should get a two-bedroom house on an acre of land with another two acres for agriculture. It’s a long, slow process. Sadly, it was raining as we passed through. [On our return to the UK we learnt that torrential rains were continuing, with more flooding and landslides, some deaths and yet more people left homeless].
Trying not to get too depressed and hoping the rain would stop, we continued to look for birds along the way - Spotted Morning Thrush, Superb Starling, Fan-tailed Raven, White-rumped Swift and many thousands of Barn Swallows on roadside cables, on trees and in the air. By lunchtime we’d reached the first of several swamps - the Mpologoma river swamp south east of Lake Kyoga. The Kyoga Water Management Zone covers nearly 9,000 km2 and what we could see from the roadside looked pretty good but we could only make a couple of short stops before pushing on to Jinja. Species south of Pian-Upe included: Long-tailed Cormorant; Hadeda; Sacred Ibis; Black-headed Heron; Cattle and Intermediate Egrets; Marabou; White Stork; African Jacana; Black Crake; Wahlberg’s and Long-crested Eagles; Lizard Buzzard; Dark Chanting Goshawk; Shikra; Grey Kestrel; White-rumped Swift; Speckled Mousebird; Speckled Pigeon; African Grey Hornbill; Barn Swallow; Pied, Grey-headed, Striped and Woodland Kingfishers; Spotted Morning Thrush; Silverbird; African Pied Wagtail; Grey-backed Fiscal; Fork-tailed Drongo; Superb Starling; Fan-tailed Raven; Bronzy and Red-chested Sunbirds; Winding Cisticola; Black-headed and Village Weavers; Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow; African Firefinch; Red-billed Quelea. Nile Monitor Lizard.
It was about 15.30hrs when we reached Jinja and checked in at Gately on Nile. We spent the rest of the afternoon on our large veranda overlooking the leafy garden and a wide expanse of Lake Victoria. We heard more birds than we could actually see in the garden’s bushes but there was plenty to watch beside the lake such as Black Coucal and Yellow-billed Storks. As light was fading a few Straw-coloured Fruit Bats were on the wing. It’s a cosy, stylish lodge with attentive staff and a good menu. At first it seemed to be a quiet area but alas, music from somewhere nearby started up early evening and continued, growing ever-louder, right through the night until 07.00hrs. It was impossible to sleep even with earplugs. Exactly the same happened on our second night. [ On doing a bit of research when we returned home, it seems this was not a unique occasion. If this continues, Gately on Nile will not do well.] Species around the lodge and lake included: White-breasted and Reed Cormorants; Pink-backed Pelican; Black-headed Heron; Hamerkop; Hadeda; Sacred Ibis; Yellow-billed and Marabou Storks; Osprey; Yellow-billed Kite; Shikra; Grey-headed Gull; Meyer’s Parrot; Black Coucal; Grey-headed and Pied Kingfishers; Little Bee-eater; White-browed Robin-Chat; Northern Puffback; Black-crowned Tchagra; Black-headed Gonolek; Common Bulbul; Pied Crow; Winding Cisticola; Rüppell’s Starling; Village Weaver; Red-chested Sunbird; Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu; Bronze Mannikin. Straw-coloured Fruit Bat.
Saturday 23rd November Jinja to Mabira Forest
It was a sleepless night and now it’s raining. A good breakfast (a wide choice) was brought to us on the veranda at 06.30hrs and we tried to ignore the music that was still blaring out. The staff were very worried.
The rain continued as we drove to Mabira. The track through the forest was in a bad state with very slippery mud and we couldn’t walk here without sliding and worrying about falling. Local people had taken off their footwear, resorting to bare feet to keep upright but were making very slow progress. We decided to birdwatch from the vehicle and make the most of a rotten situation, driving a little way (Livingstone taking it very slowly) then stopping to wait and see what came our way, continuing this for an hour or more, then trying a different part of the forest. The rain didn’t really stop, just eased occasionally before tipping down again. Actually, we saw a fair amount of birds although nowhere near as many as we’d have liked. Still, there’s nothing you can do about the weather. We had the same local forest guide with us as in 2017 - Herman. Both his and Livingstone’s sharp eyes picked out birds that we may have otherwise missed - good views of some rather nice species: Black Sparrowhawk, African Grey Parrot, Great Blue Turaco, Blue Malkoha, Buff-throated Apalis, Collared Sunbird, Purple-headed Glossy Starling, Black-necked Weaver, Grey-headed Nigrita and a group of Grey-cheeked Mangabey monkeys. White-spotted Flufftails were calling constantly but we had no luck with a sighting on this trip (thankfully, we had succeeded in 2017!) The rain eased off as we ate our packed lunch in a forest clearing and a big flock of non-breeding Weyns’s Weavers was feeding above our heads along with Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills. A bit later we heard what was obviously a raptor calling high above us - a displaying Crowned Eagle. So it wasn’t such a bad day after all. Species this morning included: Crowned Hawk Eagle; Black Sparrowhawk; Blue-spotted Wood Dove; Tambourine Dove; African Grey Parrot; Great Blue Turaco; Blue Malkoha; African Pied Hornbill; Speckled and Yellow-throated Tinkerbirds; Hairy-breasted Barbet; Little Grey Greenbul; Fraser’s Rufous Thrush; Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher; Buff-throated Apalis; Collared Sunbird; Western Oriole; Purple-headed Glossy Starling; Weyns’s and Black-necked Weavers; Grey-headed Nigrita. Grey-cheeked Mangabey; Red-tailed Monkey.
By mid-afternoon we’d had enough, were rather wet and covered in mud, so returned to the lodge. As we sat with Livingstone doing our check list, all the staff appeared with a big cake and singing Happy Birthday. It was Livingstone’s 50th and his wife had arranged this surprise for him! Trying to ignore the music which had started again, we watched two European Hobbies hunting dragonflies and then an African Hobby perched in the tree beside us. It wasn’t long before the music got much too loud again; it didn’t seem to worry the roosting Marabous and Hadedas. Species around the lodge and lake included: Pink-backed Pelican; Great and Long-tailed Cormorant; Grey, Black-headed and Squacco Herons; Little and Cattle Egrets; African Openbill and Marabou Storks; Sacred and Hadeda Ibis; Black Coucal; Eurasian and African Hobby; Grey-headed and Lesser Black-backed Gull; Black Coucal.
Sunday 24th November Jinja to Entebbe
It had been a very noisy night; something must be DONE about this problem. A female Blackcap was foraging in a tree by the veranda as we had breakfast, then we birded around Jinja, checking the golf course and edges of big gardens and roadside trees. Noisy, squabbling Straw-coloured Fruit Bats were roosting in palms and larger trees. A Shikra zoomed past us and Livingstone found where it settled - it was a male nest-building! An African Hobby was perched nearby. Species around Jinja included: Long-tailed Cormorant; Yellow-billed and Marabou Storks; Hadeda; Yellow-billed Kite; Shikra; Lizard Buzzard; African Hobby; Grey Kestrel; Eastern Plantain-eater; Speckled Pigeon; Woodland and Pied Kingfishers; Grey-backed Fiscal; Red-chested Sunbird. Straw-coloured Fruit Bat.
There is a lot of decent habitat on route from Jinja to Entebbe and even around Kampala we were seeing many birds so it was an interesting three-hour drive. Species Jinja-Kampala-Entebbe included: Hooded Vulture; Long-crested Eagle; Common Buzzard; African Pied and Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills; Broad-billed Roller; Splendid Starling; Fan-tailed Widowbird.
By 11.30hrs we were back where we’d started, at The Boma in Entebbe. We were in a big, comfortable room in a quiet part of the hotel by a secluded garden with trees and shrubs. After a very nice lunch we spent the rest of the day wandering around the extensive grounds birdwatching and trying to identify the many butterflies and other insects. A huge flock of 800+ White Storks drifted southwards and as dusk fell Epaulleted Fruit Bats began calling - a lovely sound. Species around The Boma included: White Stork; Yellow-billed Kite; Pied and Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills; Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird; African Grey Woodpecker; Grey-capped Warbler; Willow Warbler; Black-crowned Gonolek; Black-and-white Shrike Flycatcher; Greater Blue-eared Starling; Northern Brown-throated Weaver. Epaulleted Fruit Bat.
Monday 25th November Wildlife Education Centre - Entebbe Botanical Gardens
Another pre-breakfast walk produced a few more species for The Boma garden list - Marabou Stork, Broad-billed Roller; Black-and-white Shrike Flycatcher and Scarlet-chested Sunbird.
A couple of hours at Entebbe Wildlife Education Centre was enough; we understand the value of such a place in Uganda and it was good to see a school party enjoying their morning. There is a decent amount of remnant native woodland here and we saw quite a few birds including waders around the lake and a really big flock of Abdim’s Storks overhead, heading south. In the afternoon we went to the Entebbe Botanical Gardens on the edge of town beside Lake Victoria; it exceeded expectations even though we knew it was a popular site for birding groups at the start or end of a trip. A large green oasis, completely informal with many impressive tropical, sub-tropical and temperate-zone trees and undershrubs as well as open grassed areas. The range of birds was brilliant, we particularly enjoyed the African Grey Parrots with their amazing vocals and the only Crowned Hornbills of the trip. There were hundreds of Western Yellow Wagtails in the wet grass. There was a good view of Olive-bellied Sunbird and, at last, we found Orange Weavers nesting on the edge of the lake. Guereza Colobus monkeys are fairly tolerant of people here so it’s easy to get close views. Across the lake we could see a great expanse of greyish-brown haze rising above the water. It wasn’t smoke, but Lake Flies!
Species today included: Pink-backed Pelican; Abdim’s Stork; African Fish Eagle; Palm-nut Vulture; Lizard Buzzard; Shikra; Wahlberg’s Eagle; African Hobby; Helmeted Guineafowl; Black-winged Stilt; Water Thick-knee; Spur-winged Lapwing; Common Ringed Plover; Common Greenshank; Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers; White-winged Tern; Speckled Pigeon; Red-eyed Dove; Blue-spotted Wood Dove; African Grey Parrot; Great Blue and Ross’s Turacos; Klaas’s Cuckoo; African Palm Swift; Speckled Mousebird; African Pygmy, Woodland and Pied Kingfishers; White-throated Bee-eater; Broad-billed Roller; Crowned Hornbill; Double-toothed Barbet; Grey Woodpecker; Yellow-throated Leaflove; African Thrush; Grey-backed Camaroptera; Swamp and Spotted Flycatchers; Black-and-white Shrike Flycatcher; Red-bellied and African Paradise Flycatchers; White-browed and Snowy-crowned Robin-Chats; African Yellow White-eye; Black-headed Gonolek; Red-backed Shrike; Piapiac; Pied Crow; Splendid and Rüppell’s Starlings; Green-headed, Marico, Olive-bellied, Scarlet-chested, Red-chested and Purple-banded Sunbirds; Grey-headed Sparrow; Orange, Slender-billed, Northern Brown-throated, Village, Vieillot’s, Golden-backed and Black-headed Weavers; Red-billed Firefinch; Western Yellow Wagtail; Yellow-throated Longclaw; Brimstone Canary. Striped Ground Squirrel; Guereza Colobus monkey.
Monday 26th November The Boma
Our last day and we opted to stay around the lodge which was a good decision - our day-list was 32sp and included some cracking birds such as a fly-over Ross’s Turaco but especially the African Wood Owl perched on a gazebo roof apparently drying off in the sun after a torrential downpour! It was eventually driven into a bamboo thicket by Vervet monkeys. We certainly had a relaxed day, walking the grounds (dodging showers), watching the trees and bushes from our large veranda and trying to photograph birds, butterflies and reptiles. All too soon, though, it was time to head for the airport.
Species around The Boma included: Marabou and White Storks; Hadeda; Yellow-billed Kite; Palm-nut Vulture; African Hobby; Red-eyed Dove; African Grey Parrot; Ross’s Turaco; Eastern Plantain-eater; African Wood Owl; African Palm Swift; Speckled Mousebird; Woodland Kingfisher; Broad-billed Roller; African Pied and Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills; Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird; Dark-capped Bulbul; African Thrush; Tawny-flanked Prinia; Grey-capped Warbler; Willow Warbler; White-browed Robin-Chat; Purple-banded and Red-chested Sunbirds; African Yellow White-eye; Black-headed Gonolek; Greater Blue-eared and Rüppell’s Starlings; Northern Brown-throated Weaver; Red-billed Firefinch. Vervet Monkey. Bell’s Hinge-back Tortoise (probably not wild).
Thank you, Livingstone, for another wonderful trip.
BIRDS
Common Ostrich Struthio camelus
5 in Kidepo valley on 15th.
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
Common Ziwa, Murchison and Kidepo. Occasional sightings between these sites.
Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena
Occasional sightings Ziwa and Murchison; common Kidepo.
Heuglin’s Francolin Pternistis icterorhynchus
Occasional at Murchison.
Clapperton's Francolin Pternistis clappertoni
Abundant at Kidepo, common Pian-Upe.
Harlequin Quail Coturnix delegorguei
Many disturbed in dense grassland on East side of Pian-Upe.
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata
Two small flocks at swamp just outside Murchison Falls National Park, North exit gate. Heard at Jinja but not seen.
Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis
Single at swamp just outside Murchison Falls National Park, Northeast exit gate.
Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos
4 at swamp just outside Murchison Falls National Park, Northeast exit gate.
Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca
Common around Murchison Falls NP and Lake Victoria, Jinja and Entebbe.
Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata
2 near Kampala; occasional sightings around Murchison Falls NP.
[ Black-shouldered Nightjar Caprimulugus nigriscapularis Heard at Ziwa but not seen ]
Swamp Nightjar Caprimulgus natalensis
Several sightings in Kidepo.
Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma
Brief glimpses at Kidepo, often heard.
African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus
Common throughout.
Little Swift Apus affinis
Large breeding colonies on route to Ziwa and at Pian-Upe.
White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
Small numbers near Ziwa and south of Pian-Upe.
Great Blue Turaco Corythaeola cristata
3 at Mabira forest; several in Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
White-crested Turaco Tauraco leucolophus
Several sightings and constantly heard at Ziwa; frequently seen at Savannah Lodge, Kidepo.
Ross's Turaco Musophaga rossae
2 at Ziwa; often seen at The Boma hotel in Entebbe.
White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster
Common at Kidepo.
Eastern Plantain-eater Crinifer zonurus
Very common most areas although none at Pian-Upe.
Denham’s Bustard Neotis denhami
Frequent sightings, often pairs, around Murchison.
Black-bellied Bustard Lissotis melanogaster
Frequent sightings at Ziwa and Murchison; occasional at Kidepo.
Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis
1 at Murchison; frequent at Kidepo.
Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus
Several sightings at roadside swamps along routes to Ziwa, Kaniyo Pabidi and Gulu. 2 outside Murchison Park.
White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus
Common. Seen at Ziwa, near the Royal Mile and Masindi, at Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Black Coucal Centropus grilliiI
Several sightings at Pian-Upe; two sightings by Lake Victoria at Jinja.
Blue Malkoha Ceuthmochares aereus
1 at Mabira forest.
Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
1 adult seen at roadside near Moroto.
Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus
2 at Murchison.
[ Diederik Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius Often heard but not seen ]
Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas
Singles seen at Murchison and Entebbe Wildlife Education Centre. Often heard elsewhere.
[ African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus Heard in Entebbe Education Centre but not seen ]
Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius
1 Royal Mile
Black-faced Sandgrouse Pterocles decorates
2 in flight at Kidepo.
Feral Pigeon Columba livia
Feral Pigeons in all towns and larger villages.
Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea
Frequent sightings in towns, Kidepo NP and on route north of Jinja. Frequent around Lake Victoria.
Mourning Collared Dove Streptopelia decipiens
Only at Murchison, where common.
Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata
Common and widespread.
Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola
Seen at Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe
Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea
Common and widespread.
Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis
Small numbers at Ziwa, Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Occasional sightings between sites.
Black-billed Wood Dove Turtur abyssinicus
Fairly common at Murchison only.
Blue-spotted Wood Dove Turtur afer
Seen on route to Ziwa, on approach to the Royal Mile, at Mabira and Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria
Occasional at Royal Mile and around Budongo forest areas; 2 Mabira.
Namaqua Dove Oena capensis
Occasional sightings around Kidepo and Pian-Upe and between these sites.
Bruce’s Green Pigeon Treron waalia
More numerous than African T.calva. 4 at roadside stop east of Gulu. Common around Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Occasionally seen at roadside stops.
African Green Pigeon Treron calva
Less numerous than Bruce’s T.waalia. Seen at Ziwa, near Royal Mile, route east of Gulu, Kidepo and Pian-Upe and occasionally along roadsides.
[ White-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura pulchra Constantly heard in Mabira Forest but not seen ]
Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris
Small numbers at Kidepo, Pian-Upe and at swamp north of Jinja.
Grey Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum
Fairly common at Ziwa and Murchison, occasional sightings between Parks including just north of Kampala.
Common Buttonquail Turnix sylvatica
Many disturbed in dense grassland on East side of Pian-Upe.
Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis
10 from boat at Murchison.
Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus
3 by Lake Victoria at Entebbe.
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Small numbers at Murchison and along shore of Lake Victoria at Entebbe.
Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris
Occasional sightings around Murchison.
Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus
Common at Ziwa, Murchison and around Lake Victoria. Often seen along routes between sites.
Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus
Occasional sightings of small groups at Murchison and Kidepo.
Senegal Lapwing Vanellus lugubris
2 at Murchison.
African Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus
Common at Ziwa, Murchison and Kidepo.
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
4 by Lake Victoria at Entebbe.
African Jacana Actophilornis africanus
Common at Murchison. Occasional at Kidepo and along route south from Pian-Upe to Jinja.
Common Snipe Gallinago galinago
1 at Kidepo.
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Fairly common, seen at Ziwa, Murchison, Lake Victoria at Entebbe and occasionally at roadsides.
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Singles/2s occasional at Murchison, Kidepo, Pian-Upe, Lake Victoria at Jinja and on many roadside pools.
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
2-3 at Kidepo.
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Small numbers at Kidepo, Pian-Upe and by Lake Victoria at Jinja and Entebbe.
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
1 at Lake Victoria, Entebbe.
Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis
5 at top of Murchison Falls.
Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus
Large flocks around Lake Victoria at Jinja and Entebbe.
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
Small numbers around Lake Victoria at Jinja.
White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus
Large numbers across vast flooded areas near Ziwa and around Lake Victoria. 6-8 along Nile at Murchison.
Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis
2 at Jinja over Lake Victoria.
African Openbill Anastomus lammeligerus
Small flocks north of Entebbe. Common at Jinja.
Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii
Large flock, 250+ along route Gulu-Kidepo. Small flocks around Kidepo. Huge flock of c.800 south over Entebbe.
White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Small-medium flocks (20-60) at Kidepo and Pian-Upe; small flock north of Jinja; 600+ over Entebbe.
Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
Pair on route to Ziwa; several sightings of pairs at Murchison.
Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer
Often very common, particularly around Kampala, but none at Kidepo nor Pian-Upe.
Reed Cormorant Microcarbo africanus
Very common along the Nile at Murchison and around Lake Victoria at Jinja and Entebbe.
White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus
Fairly common along the Nile at Murchison; small numbers around Lake Victoria at Jinja and Entebbe.
African Darter Anhinga rufa
Small numbers along the Nile at Murchison.
African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus
Small numbers at Ziwa, south of Pian-Upe and swamp north of Jinja.
Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash
Common most areas.
Striated Heron Butorides striata
1 at swamp outside Murchison NP.
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Fairly common in flooded areas near Ziwa, around Murchison and Lake Victoria.
Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Very common all areas except Pian-Upe reserve.
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Fairly common.
Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala
Very common.
Goliath Heron Ardea goliath
3 along the Nile at Murchison and 1 at swamp outside Murchison NP.
Great Egret Ardea alba
Occasional sightings around Murchison.
Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia
Occasional sightings around Murchison, south of Pian-Upe and near Jinja.
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Small numbers in all suitable areas.
Hamerkop Scopus umbretta
Very common most areas.
Shoebill Balaeniceps rex
1 in open swampy grassland outside north gate of Murchison Falls NP.
Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens
Common around Lake Victoria at Entebbe and Jinja.
Secretary Bird Sagittarius serpentarius
5 at Kidepo.
Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus
1 along the Nile at Murchison; 2 singles over Lake Victoria at Jinja.
Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus
Frequent sightings around Murchison; min. 6 around Moroto town north of Pian-Upe; 1 at Pian-Upe; occasional roadside sightings between these sites.
African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus
Occasional singles at Ziwa, Murchison and Kidepo.
Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis
Singles often seen at Ziwa, Murchison and around Entebbe.
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
1 over swamp outside Murchison NP.
Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus
Small numbers at Ziwa, Kidepo, in Kampala and route to Entebbe.
White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus
Very common at Murchison and Kidepo.
Rüppell's Vulture Gyps rueppellii
2 Kidepo; 1 at Pian-Upe.
White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis
Frequent sightings around Kidepo, usually pairs, and possibly nesting close to Savannah Lodge.
Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotos
Frequent sightings at Murchison. Common around Kidepo.
Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis
Two on route to Kidepo; fairly common around Kidepo.
Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus
Fairly common and widespread although not at Pian-Upe.
Western Banded Snake Eagle Circaetus cinerascens
2 singles in Ziwa.
Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus
Common away from developed areas.
Crowned Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus
1 in display flight over Mabira forest.
Martial Eagle Polemaetus beliicosus
1 in Ziwa; 4 sightings in Kidepo.
Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis
Common and widspread. Often seen on roadside posts.
Wahlberg's Eagle Hieraaetus wahlbergi
Common, seen most areas.
Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax
2 at Ziwa; common in Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Often seen along routes between these sites.
African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster
1 near Kaniyo Pabidi.
Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus
Common most areas, including roadsides.
Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar
1 at roadside stop east of Kitgum.
Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates
Common, frequent sightings most areas. Often on roadside posts.
Eastern Chanting Goshawk Melierax poliopterus
1 at Pian-Upe, possibles at Kidepo.
African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro
1 along route to Pian-Upe.
Shikra Accipiter badius
Occasional sightings around Ziwa, Kidepo, Pian-Upe, route south of Pian-Upe, at Jinja (male nest-building) and Entebbe.
Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus
1 Mabira forest.
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Common around Murchison.
African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus
3 Murchison; several sightings at Kidepo.
Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus
Male at Kidepo.
Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
Frequent at Murchison, occasional at Kidepo and route towards Pian-Upe.
Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius
Abundant.
African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer
Occasional sightings along the Nile at Murchison, 1 at swamp outside Murchison NP and 2 by Lake Victoria at Entebbe.
Grasshopper Buzzard Butastur rufipennis
1 Pian-Upe.
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Fairly common, seen at Ziwa, Murchison, near Moroto, at Pian-Upe plus occasional roadside sightings.
Augur Buzzard Buteo augur
1 south of Kidepo.
[ African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis Heard at Ziwa, Kidepo and Pian-Upe but not seen ]
[ Greyish Eagle-Owl Bubo cinerascens Heard morning and night at Pian-Upe but not seen ]
Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus
1 at roost in Ziwa.
African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii
1 seen in grounds of The Boma, Entebbe.
Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus
Very common, seen every day.
Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus
Small numbers around Ziwa, Kidepo and Pian-Upe, occasional roadside sightings.
Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina
1 at Royal Mile.
Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops waibeli
Occasional sightings around Kidepo.
African Hoopoe Upupa africana
1 in Ziwa.
Green Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus
Common at Kidepo, occasional at Pian-Upe.
Black Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus aterrimus
Pair Narus Valley, Kidepo (seen and heard) and pair south of Kidepo.
Abyssinian Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus minor
Pair south of Kidepo. Pair at Pian-Upe.
Abyssinian Ground Hornbill Bucorvus abyssinicus
Pairs frequent around Murchison; very common at Kidepo; 2 pairs Pian-Upe.
Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus
Fairly common Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Jackson's Hornbill Tockus jacksoni
2 pairs at Kidepo.
Crowned Hornbill Lophoceros alboterminatus
Pair in Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
African Pied Hornbill Lophoceros nasutus
Several sightings Mabira forest; pair Jinja-Kampala route; pair frequently at The Boma and pair at Botanical Gardens Entebbe.
African Grey Hornbill Lophoceros nasutus
Very common, seen each day until 22nd - not seen at Mabira, Jinja, Entebbe.
White-thighed Hornbill Bycanistes albotibialis
Several sightings of pairs in and around Royal Mile; 4 together at Kaniyo Pabidi.
Black-&-white-casqued Hornbill Bycanistes subcylindricus
2 over Masindi town. 4 together Royal Mile; frequent around Budongo forest, at Mabira, on Jinja-Kampala route and at Entebbe. 2 at The Boma hotel.
Purple Roller Coracias naevius
Occasional sightings around Kidepo; several roadside sightings on route to Pian-Upe.
Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus
Several sightings around Pian-Upe.
Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinicus
Fairly common Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Occasional sightings along routes between sites.
Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus
Frequent around Ziwa, Masindi, Budongo and route to Murchison. Occasional around Entebbe, including The Boma hotel.
Chocolate-backed Kingfisher Halcyon badia
1 Royal Mile.
Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala
Common between Kampala-Ziwa-Masinid and at Murchison. 1 south of Pian-Upe. 1 at Gately Hotel, Jinja.
Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti
Occasional sightings around Ziwa, Murchison and Pian-Upe. 1 at roadside stop south of Pian-Upe. Often heard.
Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis
Common around Ziwa, near Royal Mile, at Jinja and Entebbe; frequently seen along routes between sites.
African Pygmy Kingfisher Ispidina picta
2 Royal Mile, 1 Kaniyo Pabidi, 1 Murchison.
Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus
4 from boat at Murchison.
Shining-blue Kingfisher Alcedo quadribrachys
Nesting pair at far end of Royal Mile.
Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima
2 singles Murchison.
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
Common in flooded areas near Ziwa; abundant along the Nile at Murchison and Lake Victoria at Jinja and Entebbe. Frequent roadside sightings at rivers and floods.
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus
2 Murchison; 3 Kidepo.
Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus
Occasional on route to Ziwa, at swamp outside Murchison NP and at Pian-Upe.
Red-throated Bee-eater Merops bulocki
Several sightings around Murchison.
White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis
Small flock over grassland near Masindi; 3 at Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Olive Bee-eater Merops superciliosus
Small flock over grassland near Masindi. Frequent around Murchison.
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Small flocks at Ziwa and Murchison.
Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus
Occasional small flocks Murchison.
Yellow-throated Tinkerbird Pogoniulus subsulphureus
2 at Royal Mile; 1 at Mabira forest.
Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus bilineatus
1 at Kaniyo Pabidi.
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus
Frequent sightings Ziwa areas, Murchison and in The Boma grounds, Entebbe.
Yellow-spotted Barbet Buccanodon duchaillui
1 Royal Mile.
Hairy-breasted Barbet Tricholaema hirsute
2 Mabira forest.
Spot-flanked Barbet Tricholaema lacrymosa
Widespread. Ziwa, Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
White-headed Barbet Lybius leucocephalus
Frequent sightings, usually pairs, at Ziwa, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Black-billed Barbet Lybius guifsobalito
Pair Murchison.
Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus
Frequent around Ziwa; 1 in Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Yellow-billed Barbet Trachyphonus purpuratus
Pair Kaniyo Pabidi.
D'Arnaud's Barbet Trachyphonus darnaudii
Common around Kidepo. Pair Pian-Upe. Occasional sightings between these sites.
Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator
1 at roadside stop on route to Ziwa.
Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica
Singles/2s at Ziwa, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Yellow-crested Woodpecker Dendropicos xantholophus
2 Royal Mile.
Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens
Singles in Murchison and Pian-Upe.
African Grey Woodpecker Dendroppicos goertae
Singles on route to Kidepo, Mabira, Entebbe Botanical Gardens. 1 in grounds of The Boma hotel.
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
Occasional 2-4 at Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Fox Kestrel Falco alopex
1 on route to Kidepo; common around Kidepo NP; 2 at Pian-Upe.
Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus
Very common and widespread, seen almost daily although none at Jinja, Mabira nor Entebbe.
Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera
Occasional sightings Murchison; 1 Jinja.
Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo
3 hunting dragonflies by The Gately at Jinja.
African Hobby Falco cuvierii
4 sightings around Jinja; singles over The Boma grounds, Entebbe.
Lanner Falcon Falco jugger
1 at Pian-Upe.
Grey Parrot Psittacus erithacus
Occasional flight views around Jinja; min. 4 in Entebbe Botanical Gardens; frequent sightings over The Boma gardens, Entebbe.
Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri
Common. Ziwa, Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Occasional along routes between sites.
Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri
Small numbers frequent around Kidepo.
Red-headed Lovebird Agapornis pullarius
Pair on route to Kaniyo Pabidi.
Western Black-headed Batis Batis erlangeri
Frequent, usually pairs, at Ziwa, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Chestnut Wattle-eye Platysteira castanea
Pairs at Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi.
Brown-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea
Fairly common at Ziwa and near Kaniyo Pabidi.
[ Grey-headed Bushshrike Melaconotus blanchoti Heard at Ziwa but not seen. ]
Orange-breasted Bushshrike Chlorophoneus sulfureopectus
Pair at Murchison River Lodge; often heard around Ziwa, Murchison.
Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis
Often seen at roadside stops near Ziwa, near Royal Mile, at Murchison. Occasional along routes between sites.
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis
Common at Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Occasional sightings between these sites.
Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis
Occasional sightings around Ziwa, Murchison and Pian-Upe. Pair in grounds of Gately hotel, Jinja.
Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris
1 in Narus Valley, Kidepo.
Tropical Boubou Laniarius major
Occasional at Ziwa. Several sightings at roadside stops on routes to Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi. Often heard elsewhere.
Black-headed Gonolek Laniarius erythrogaster
Common, often around lodge/camps at Ziwa, Murchison, Pian-Upe, Jinja and Entebbe and at roadside stops.
Brubru Nilaus afer
2 Pian-Upe.
White-crested Helmet-Shrike Prionops plumatus
Small flocks at Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher Bias musicus
Singles around The Boma gardens and Wildlife Education Centre, Entebbe.
Yellow-billed Shrike Corvinella corvine
Very common at Kidepo; smaller numbers at Pian-Upe. Occasional roadside sightings.
Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus ruppelli
Very common at Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Frequent sightings between these sites.
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio
Fairly common at Murchison and Pian-Upe; 1 in cultivated area near Royal Mile; 1 in Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Red-tailed / Isabelline Shrike Lanius phoenicuroides / isabellinus
1 at Murchison on 11th appeared to be L. phoenicuroides
Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides
Very common, seen most days often in good numbers.
African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus
Occasional sightings and often heard at Ziwa
Western Oriole Oriolus brachyrhynchus
1 seen, often heard, at Royal Mile; 1 at Mabira.
Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus
1 at Ziwa; 1 Narus Valley; occasional at Kidepo, 1 Pian-Upe.
Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis
Fairly common but not numerous.
Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone rufiventer
Seen less often than T.viridis. Occasional sightings Royal Mile/Budongo/Mabira forest and Wildlife Education Centre, Entebbe.
African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis
Seen more often than Red-bellied T.rufiventer. Ziwa, Murchison, Pian-Upe and Entebbe Botanical Gardens. Occasional sightings at roadside stops.
Piapiac Ptilostomus afer
Very common, seen everywhere except Pian-Upe.
Pied Crow Corvus albus
Common and widespread.
Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus
2 on approach to Kidepo (route from Gulu); 1 south of Kidepo and 2 south of Pian-Upe.
African Blue Flycatcher Elminia longicauda
1 at Kaniyo Pabidi.
White-shouldered Black Tit Melaniparus guineensis
Occasional pairs at Ziwa and surrounding areas.
White-bellied Tit Melaniparus albiventris
Pair at Savannah Lodge, Kidepo.
Western Nicator Nicator chloris
At least 1 along Royal Mile.
Red-winged Lark Mirafra hypermetra
Common at Kidepo and occasional sightings on route to Pian-Upe.
Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana
Occasional sightings at Kidepo.
Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea
Common at Pian-Upe.
Singing Bush Lark Mirafra cantillans
Occasional sightings Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
White-tailed Lark Mirafra albicauda
Frequent sightings at Pian-Upe.
Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor
Abundant, seen every day.
Slender-billed Greenbul Stelgidillas gracilirostris
Singles along Royal Mile and at Kaniyo Pabidi.
Little Greenbul Eurillas virens
Several sightings along Royal Mile, frequently heard.
Little Grey Greenbul Eurillas gracilis
Several sightings along Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi, 2 Mabira forest. Often heard.
Plain Greenbul Eurillas curvirostris
1 Royal Mile.
Yellow-whiskered Bulbul Eurillas latirostris
Several sightings Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi.
Honeyguide Greenbul Baeopogon indicator
1 at Kaniyo Pabidi.
Spotted Greenbul Ixonotus guttatus
1 Royal Mile.
Yellow-throated Leaflove Atimastillas flavicollis
Fairly common around Royal Mile, Murchison (including lodge) and Entebbe.
White-throated Greenbul Phyllastrephus albigularis
Several sightings Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi.
Red-tailed Greenbul Criniger calurus
At least 1 along Royal Mile.
White-headed Saw-wing Psalidoprocne albiceps
Small flock above Royal Mile.
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Common in good numbers all areas. Some impressively large gatherings - thousands - route south from Pian-Upe.
Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii
Up to 4 by the ferry crossing at Murchison.
Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica
Small flock at Murchison on one day.
Mosque Swallow Cercropis senegalensis
Pair around Karamoja camp, Pian-Upe.
Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
2 Kidepo.
Moustached Grass Warbler Melocichla mentalis
Seen along route to Ziwa, grassland/scrub near Royal Mile, on route to Kaniyo Pabidi and at Pian-Upe. Often heard.
Northern Crombec (race carnapi) Sylvietta brachyuran
Common at Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Green Crombec Sylvietta virens
1 at Kaniyo Pabidi.
Lemon-bellied Crombec Sylvietta denti
At least 1 along Royal Mile.
Chestnut-capped Flycatcher Erythrocercus mccallii
At least 1 along Royal Mile.
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Fairly common around Pian-Upe. 1-2 in grounds of hotels at both Jinja and Entebbe.
Uganda Woodland Warbler Phylloscopus budongoensis
Adult and 2 juvs along Royal Mile.
African Reed Warbler Acrocephalus baeticatus
2 in grassland on route to Royal Mile.
Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Iduna pallida
1 at Karamoja Camp, Pian-Upe.
Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythropus
Several sightings on approach roads to Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi. Occasional sightings Murchison.
Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans
Several in grassland/cultivations near Masindi. Occasional at Murchison Falls.
Whistling Cisticola Cisticola lateralis
Common in grassland/cultivations close to Royal Mile and on route to Kaniyo Pabidi.
Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana
Fairly widespread, seen at Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Winding Cisticola Cisticola marginatus
Seen along route to Ziwa, at Murchison, south of Pian-Upe and around Jinja and Entebbe.
Stout Cisticola Cisticola robustus
Frequent in Kidepo.
Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis
Fairly widespread, seen near Ziwa, Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe and at roadside stops.
Red-pate Cisticola Cisticola ruficeps
Common at Kidepo; 2 at Pian-Upe; occasional roadside sightings.
Short-winged Cisticola Cisticola brachypterus
Occassional sightings at roadside stops on route to Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi. Several seen at Pian-Upe.
Foxy Cisticola Cisticola troglodytes
Small numbers around Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Small numbers seen at Murchison and Kidepo.
Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava
Fairly common, seen most areas. Often heard.
Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella
Small numbers at Murchison and Pian-Upe.
Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida
1 at Murchison.
Buff-throated Apalis Apalis rufogularis
At least 1 along Royal Mile and again at Mabira forest.
Karamoja Apalis Apalis karamojae
An amazing 5 individuals seen at Pian-Upe, 3 in eastern sector and 2 along main road through park next day.
Grey-capped Warbler Eminia lepida
Occasional sightings at Ziwa and in grounds of The Boma, Entebbe.
Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata
Seen at Kidepo, Pian-Upe and Wildlife Education Centre, Entebbe.
Olive-green Camaroptera Camaroptera chloronota
2 along Royal Mile.
Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis
1 at roadside stop north of Moroto. 1 Pian-Upe.
Green-backed Eremomela Eremomela canescens
At least 1 Pian-Upe.
Rufous-crowned Eremomela Eremomela badiceps
A least 1 along Royal Mile.
Rufous Chatterer Turdoides rubiginosa
Small flock at roadside stop north of Moroto town.
Brown Babbler Turdoides plebejus
Small flocks near Ziwa and on route to Murchison.
Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
Female in grounds of Gately hotel, Jinja.
Garden Warbler Sylvia borin
1 at Karamoja Camp, Pian-Upe.
Northern Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis
Widespread, singles and small flocks seen most areas.
Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea
Small flock in flight at Kidepo.
Purple-headed Starling Hylopsar purpureiceps
Small number with other Starling sp. Mabira Forest.
Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus
Common at Pian-Upe and around Entebbe, including grounds of The Boma Hotel.
Lesser Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus
Very common around Ziwa, Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Frequent flocks along routes.
Bronze-tailed Starling Lamprotornis chalcurus
Occasional small flocks around Ziwa, at Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Splendid Starling Lamprotornis splendidus
Small numbers in Ziwa and Budongo areas and around Entebbe.
Rüppell's Starling Lamprotornis purpuroptera
Common and widespread.
Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus
Common at Kidepo, route south towards Pian-Upe, route south of Pian-Upe and around Jinja.
Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster
Occasional small flocks at Ziwa and Pian-Upe.
Chestnut-winged Starling Onychognathus fulgidus
2 in flight near Royal Mile.
Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus
Small numbers at Murchison and Pian-Upe; more numerous at Kidepo.
Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorynchus
Seen only at Kidepo where less frequent than Yellow-billed B.africanus.
Fraser’s Rufous Thrush Stizorhina fraseri
2 along Royal Mile; 1 at Kaniyo Pabidi; 1 Mabira forest.
African Thrush Turdus pelios
Small numbers in Ziwa area. Occasional roadside sightings south of Kidepo; several sightings at Pian-Upe and south to Jinja and Entebbe. Several in grounds of The Boma hotel, Entebbe.
Brown-backed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas hartlaubi
Fairly common from Masindi towards Murchison, including areas near Royal Mile and towards Kaniyo Pabidi.
White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys
Occasional around Ziwa (often heard). 1 at roadside stop south of Pian-Upe.
Grey Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus plumbeus
Singles at Ziwa and Kaniyo Pabidi.
Northern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides
Frequent sightings around Ziwa and at Murchison.
Pale Flycatcher Melaenornis pallidus
Fairly common and widespread. Seen around Ziwa and at Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
African Grey Flycatcher Melaenornis microrhynchus
Often seen around Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Silverbird Empidornis semipartitus
Fairly common around Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Two sightings south of Pian-Upe.
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
Singles near Royal Mile, Murchison River Lodge, Pian-Upe and Entebbe.
Ashy Flycatcher Muscicapa caerulescens
2 at Kidepo.
Swamp Flycatcher Muscicapa aquatic
2 along Nile at Murchison. 1 by Lake Victoria at Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Cape Robin-Chat Cossypha caffra
1 around Karamoja Camp, Pian-Upe.
White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini
Seen at Ziwa, near Masindi and at Murchison. Frequent sightings around Jinja and Entebbe.
Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat Cossypha niveicapilla
1 in thicket near Masindi; 1 Mabira forest; 1 at Wildlife Eduction Centre, Entebbe.
Forest Robin Stiphrornis erythrothorax
1 at Kaniyo Pabidi.
Spotted Palm Thrush Cichladusa guttata
Occasional sightings at Murchison; 2 singles south of Pian-Upe.
Common Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis
Female at Pian-Upe.
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
Singles fairly widespread, most areas.
Sooty Chat Myrmecocichla nigra
Common at Murchison and Kidepo.
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Occasional singles Murchison, Kidepo, Pian-Upe. A few roadside sightings.
Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina
More numerous/widespread than Northern O.oenanthe, seen Murchison, Kidepo, Pian-Upe. Occasional roadside sightings.
Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka
1 at Kidepo.
Familiar Chat Oenanthe familiaris
1 by Savannah Lodge, Kidepo.
Little Green Sunbird Anthreptes seimundi
At least 1 Royal Mile.
Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris
Seen at Ziwa, Kaniyo Pabidi and Mabira forest.
Green-headed Sunbird Cyanomitra verticalis
Fairly common around Jinja and Entebbe, including The Boma gardens.
Blue-throated Brown Sunbird Cyanomitra cyanolaema
1 Royal Mile.
Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra olivacea
1 at Kaniyo Pabidi.
Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis
Seen at Ziwa and around Entebbe. 2 in grounds of The Boma hotel.
Hunter’s Sunbird Chalcomitra hunter
Frequent sightings around Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Bronzy Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis
1 north of Jinja.
Olive-bellied Sunbird Cinnyris chloropygius
1 Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus
Pair on route to Pian-Upe.
Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis
Occasional sightings in Ziwa areas; pair in Botanical Gardens, Entebbe.
Red-chested Sunbird Cinnyris erythrocercus
Common around Jinja and Entebbe including grounds of The Boma hotel. Occasional roadside sightings north of Jinja.
Purple-banded Sunbird Cinnyris bifasciatus
Seen at Ziwa, Kidepo, Pian-Upe and around Jinja and Entebbe, including grounds of The Boma hotel.
Superb Sunbird Cinnyris superbus
2 at Ziwa.
Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus
Occasional sightings in Ziwa area.
Copper Sunbird Cinnyris cupreus
Seen near the Royal Mile and at Murchison.
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Only recorded once: 6 at market place near Ziwa
Shelley’s Sparrow Passer shelleyi
Fairly common at Murchison and Pian-Upe; small numbers at Kidepo.
Northern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus
Fairly common and widespread, all areas except Kidepo.
Parrot-billed Sparrow Passer gongonensis
Only identified at Kidepo; possibly this sp. at Pian-Upe.
Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey
Small numbers at Pian-Upe.
Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow Gymnoris pyrgita
Common at Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
White-headed Buffalo Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli
Seen at Kidepo and Pian-Upe. Pair at roadside north of Moroto.
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali
Common around Ziwa, Kidepo, Pian-Upe. Also roadside colonies seen between sites.
Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser rufocapulatus
Small numbers at Murchison and Pian-Upe.
Grey-capped Social Weaver Pseudonigrita arnaudi
Small numbers at Kidepo.
Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis
Common at Murchison, Kidepo, Pian-Upe and occasionally seen between sites.
Thick-billed Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons
Seen near Royal Mile, on route to Kaniyo Pabidi and Murchison.
Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht
Small numbers near Royal Mile and at Pian-Upe.
Slender-billed Weaver Ploceus pelzelni
Breeding colonies along Nile at Murchison and by Lake Victoria, Entebbe.
Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus
Seen at Ziwa and Pian-Upe.
Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis
Pair in grassland/cultivations near Royal Mile.
Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis
Pair Mabira forest.
Holub's Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops
Pairs around Ziwa area.
Orange Weaver Ploceus aurantius
Two nesting pairs by Lake Victoria/Botanical Gardens Entebbe.
Heuglin’s Weaver Ploceus heuglini
Small numbers at roadside stop east of Gulu, at Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Northern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus castanops
Common around Ziwa and Entebbe.
Vitelline Masked Weaver Ploceus vitellinus
Seen at Murchison.
Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus
Very common around Ziwa, on route to Royal Mile, at Murchison, Jinja and Entebbe. Often seen along routes between sites.
Vieillot's Black Weaver Ploceus nigerrimus
Common Ziwa and Murchison; small flocks in grassland/cultivations near Royal Mile and on route to Kaniyo Pabidi; less numerous around Entebbe.
Weyns's Weaver Ploceus weynsi
4-5 in wooded area north of Kampala. Non-breeding flock at Mabira forest.
Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus
Seen on route to Ziwa and at Murchison. Several at roadside stop north of Jinja. Also at Jinja and Entebbe.
Golden-backed Weaver Ploceus jacksoni
Several sightings around Ziwa and Entebbe.
Yellow-mantled Weaver Ploceus tricolor
2 at Kaniyo Pabidi.
Compact Weaver Ploceus superciliosus
Small number near Royal Mile.
Red-headed Malimbe Malimbus rubricollis
Brief view of one gathering nesting material near Royal Mile.
Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps
Occasional around Ziwa; more frequent at Pian-Upe.
Red-headed Quelea Quelea erythropus
Small flock in grassland/cultivations near Royal Mile.
Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea
Frequent flocks at Murchison and Pian-Upe and south of Pian-Upe.
Black Bishop Euplectes gierowii
Common in grassland/cultivations near Royal Mile.
Black-winged Red Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus
Frequent sightings Ziwa, Murchison and Kidepo. Often seen along routes between sites.
Northern Red Bishop Euplectes franciscanus
Common at Murchison and Pian-Upe. Occasional sightings on routes between these sites.
Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris
Seen on route to and around Ziwa. 3 sightings on route Jinja-Kampala. Occasional roadside sightings.
Yellow-mantled Widowbird Euplectes macroura
Seen in grassland near Royal Mile, at Murchison and along route to Kaniyo Pabidi.
Marsh Widowbird Euplectes hartlaubi
Seen on route to and around Ziwa and on route to Entebbe.
Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens
Common in grassland near Royal Mile and on route to Kaniyo Pabidi.
Grey-headed Nigrita Nigrita canicapillus
Occasional sightings Royal Mile and Mabira forest.
Grey-headed Oliveback Nesocharis capistrata
2 in grassland near Masindi.
Cut-throat Finch Amadina fasciata
2 Kidepo.
Brown Twinspot Clytospiza monteiri
4 in grassland near Royal Mile and near Masindi on route to Kaniyo Pabidi.
Black-bellied Firefinch Lagonosticta rara
Small flock in grassland near Royal Mile and near Masindi.
Bar-breasted Firefinch Lagonosticta rufopicta
Small numbers at Ziwa, in grassland near Royal Mile and at Murchison.
Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala
Common Ziwa, grassland near Royal Mile, on route to Kaniyo Pabidi and around Entebbe. Less frequent at Pian-Upe. Often along routes between sites.
African Firefinch Lagonosticta rubricata
Common in grassland near Royal Mile; flocks common south of Pian-Upe.
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus
Common and widespread.
Fawn-breasted Waxbill Estrilda paludicola
Several in grassland near Royal Mile; 2 at roadside stop east of Gulu; fairly common at Pian-Upe.
Black-rumped Waxbill Estrilda troglodytes
Occasional at Murchison.
Orange-breasted Waxbill Amandava subflavus
Small flock in grassland near Royal Mile.
Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis
Occasional sightings of pairs at Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata
Fairly common and widespread.
Black-and-white Mannikin Lonchura bicolour
Small flocks in grassland/cultivations near Royal Mile and on route to Kaniyo Pabidi.
Magpie Mannikin Lonchura fringilloides
Pair in grassland/cultivations near Royal Mile.
Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura
Frequent sightings on routes to Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi, swamp outside Murchison NP and roadside south of Pian-Upe.
Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
Frequent sightings on route to Royal Mile; common along Nile, Murchison; 100s at Entebbe Botanical Gardens on 25th.
African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp
Occasional sightings at Ziwa, Masindi and on route to Jinja.
Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus
Fairly widespread, seen around Ziwa, Murchison, Kidepo, Pian-Upe and Entebbe.
Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys
Fairly common and widespread, particularly common at Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis
1 at Savannah Lodge, Kidepo. Frequent sightings around Pian-Upe.
Western Citril Crithagra frontalis
2 on route to Kaniyo Pabidi.
Reichenow’s Seedeater Crithagra reichenowi
Occasional sightings south of Kidepo and frequent at Pian-Upe.
Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambica
Common in cultivations/scrub near Royal Mile and on route to Kaniyo Pabidi. Small flock near Savannah Lodge, Kidepo. Several sightings on route south of Kidepo. Frequent at Pian-Upe.
Brimstone Canary Crithagra sulphurata
Small numbers in cultivations/scrub near Royal Mile and around Entebbe.
Cinnamon-breasted Rock-Bunting Emeriza tahapisi
Pairs/small groups Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
MAMMALS
Olive Baboon Papio anubis
Common around Kaniyo Pabidi and at Murchison; just 3 at Kidepo.
Guereza Colobus Colobus guereza
Frequent sightings around Ziwa. 2 in Botanical Gardens, Entebbe.
Uganda Grey-cheeked Mangabey Lophocebus albigena
Group of c.6 at Mabira forest.
Patas Monkey Erythrocebus patas
Frequent sightings around Murchison, Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Tantalus Monkey Chlorocebus tantalus
Cercopithecus monkeys frequently seen around Ziwa and Murchison seemed to be tantalus.
Vervet Monkey Chlorocebus pygerythrus
Cercopithecus around Entebbe had darker feet and tail tip, so were presumably pygerythrus.
Blue (Gentle) Monkey Ceropithecus nictitans stuhlmanni
Small numbers along Royal Mile.
(Uganda) Red-tailed Monkey Cercopithecus ascanius schmidti
Fairly common along Royal Mile and in Mabira area.
Plains Zebra Equus quagga boehmi
Fairly common around Kidepo.
White (Square-lipped) Rhinoceros Ceratotherium simum
An impressive 13 seen at Ziwa including 2 very young calves.
Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius
Very common around Murchison. At least 6 in tiny roadside swamp outside Murchison NP.
Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus
Common at Ziwa, Murchison and Kidepo; smaller number seen at Pian-Upe.
Rothschild’s Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi
Common at Murchison. Smaller numbers around Kidepo.
African Buffalo Syncercus caffer
Very common at Murchison; huge herds across Kidepo.
Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus
Common at Ziwa.
Common Eland Tragelaphus oryx
Small groups at Kidepo.
Roan Antelope Hippotragus equinus
Herd of c.60 on eastern side of Pian-Upe.
Common (Grey) Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia
Several sightings around Ziwa.
Oribi Ourebia ourebi
Common at Murchison, even more numerous at Kidepo. Occasional sightings around Pian-Upe.
Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca
Occasional sightings at Murchison; common at Kidepo.
Uganda Kob Kobus kob thomasi
Large numbers around Murchison; common at Kidepo.
Defassa Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus defassa
Common at Murchison; frequent at Kidepo and Pian-Upe.
Bright’s Gazelle Nanger granti ssp. notata
Small numbers around Narus Valley, Kidepo.
Lelwel Hartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus lelwel
Common at Murchison and Kidepo. Occasional sightings Pian-Upe.
African Savanna Elephant Loxodonta africana
Small groups around Murchison; large numbers at Kidepo with many youngsters amongst them.
Side-striped Jackal Canis adustus
Pair near Apoka Lodge and single in Narus Valley, Kidepo.
Lion Panthera leo
3 youngsters on 11th and 2 adult males on 12th at Murchison.
Yellow-spotted (Bruce’s) Bush Hyrax Heterohyrax brucei
Large groups on kopjes in Kidepo; all apparently this sp. but Rock Hyrax Procavia possible.
Bunyoro Rabbit Poelagus marjorita
Occasional sightings at Ziwa.
African Savanna (Scrub) Hare Lepus capensis/saxatilis
1 at Savannah Lodge, Kidepo; several sightings around Kidepo NP.
Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula.
Group on kopje in Narus Valley, Kidepo.
Striped Ground Squirrel Xerus erythropus
Fairly common and widespread.
Alexander’s Bush Squirrel Paraxerus alexandri
2 Royal Mile.
Bőhm's Bush Squirrel Paraxerus boehmi
Frequent along Royal Mile.
Gambian Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus gambianus (mulicolor)
1 at Savannah Lodge, Kidepo.
Red-legged Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus rufobrachium
Common Royal Mile and Kaniyo Pabidi.
Straw-coloured Fruit Bat Eidolon helvum
Hundreds streaming over Gulu town from dusk. Noisy roosting groups around Jinja.
Zebra Mouse sp. Lemniscomys sp.
A few brief sightings of “multi-striped mice” at Murchison and Kidepo.
MAMMALS - TRACKS and SIGNS
Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta Tracks of two animals at Pian-Upe.
Leopard Panthera pardus Tracks in Kidepo.
REPTILES and AMPHIBIANS
Nile Crocodile Crocodylus niloticus
Kenya (Red-headed) Rock Agama Agama lionotus
Nile Monitor Lizard Varanus niloticus
Speckle-lipped Skink Trachylepis maculilabris
Striped Skink Trachylepis (Mabuya) striata
Tropical House Gecko Hemidactylus mabouia
Chevron-throated (Uganda Dwarf) Gecko Lygodactylus gutturalis
Bell’s Hingeback Tortoise Kinixys belliana
BUTTERFLIES
Neave's Banded Judy Abisara neavei
Hobart's Red Glider Cymothoe hobarti
Common Orange Forester Euphaedra ruspina
Uganda Forester Euphaedra medon
Common Palm Forester Bebearia cocalia
Light Brown Forrester Bebearia zonara
Common Pathfinder Catuna crithea
Pierrot sp. (Common or Forest Pied) Tuxentius sp.
Forest Commodore Junonia sp.
Soldier Commodore Junonia terea
Brown Pansy Junonia sp.
Blue Pansy Junonia orithya
Yellow Pansy Junonia hierta
Grass Yellow sp. Eurema sp.
Common Glider Cymothoe sp.
Glider sp. possibly Cymothoe haynae
Herminia Glider Cymothoe herminia
Migratory Glider Cymothoe caenis
Blue-spotted Charaxes Charaxes cithaeron,
Green-banded Swallowtail (Narrow-banded/African Blue-banded) Papilio nireus
Emperor Swallowtail Papilio lormieri
African Castor Butterfly Ariadne enotrea
Mocker Swallowtail Papilio dardanus
Flame-bordered Charaxes Charaxes protoclea
OTHER
Riverjack Damselfly Mesocnemis singularis
African Giant Snail Achatina fulica