12 May:
Some of the group arrived on the 11th, while others landed during the early hours of the 12th. All assembled for breakfast at the Magnolia Hotel, Tbilisi and we departed at 09:15 hours for Kazbegi. Laughing Dove was spotted in Tbilisi while 2 Black-crowned Night Herons were seen flying along the River Mikvari. Our frst stop was in the Kojori pine woods. frst stop was not really successful and we had almost lost the hope of seeing the Kruper’s when we decided to check another much smaller grove where actively calling male Nuthatch was successfully tracked down. Short-toed Snake Eagle, Northern Goshawk, Common Kestrel, European Honey Buzzard and Steppe Buzzard were five of the raptors also encountered with a tentative sixth; Steppe Eagle.
In addition, a Mistle Thrush and Wood Pigeon were seen, with Common Chiffchaff, Green Warbler as well as Woodlark heard.
On our journey north, we stopped for a market in Gudauri resort where we had our first Caucasian Chiffchaffs near a gas station. A brief stop was made to search for Horned Lark and Snowfinch at Jvari pass, although we drew a blank. However, a Whinchat was seen. After a late lunch at the Nao’s guest house in Kazbegi, a walk among the Sea Buckthorn bushes produced Black Redstart, a fne Guldenstadt’s Redstart, a “Beema” Western Yellow Wagtail, European Greenfinch and a Red-throated Pipit - well spotted, Hans!. On a snow-covered slope, a Caucasian Black Grouse was picked out, along with a Northern Goshawk, several Griffon Vultures and single Cinereous flying overhead.
In addition, the following species were seen or heard on at least seven days of the tour, so will not be mentioned again; records of particular interest excepting: Common Swift, Common Cuckoo, Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon, Common Wood Pigeon, Black Kite, Steppe Buzzard, Eurasian Hoopoe, European Bee-eater, Common Kestrel, Red-backed and Lesser Grey shrikes, Eurasian Jay, Hooded Crow, Raven, Great Tit, Barn Swallow, Common House Martin, Lesser Whitethroat, Common Starling, Common Blackbird, Northern Wheatear, House Sparrow, White Wagtail, Common Chaffinch and Corn Bunting.
13 May:
We left the hotel at 05:30 hours for an early walk among the same Sea Buckthorn bushes that we searched yesterday afternoon. This produced Whinchats, Red-backed Shrikes, Barred Warblers, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Mountain Chiffchaffs, Red-fronted Serins, Common Rosefinches and on the grass nearby, two female Great Rosefinches gave very close and prolonged views. The group then moved to an area above èlia Church, spotting a singing Common Rock Thrush on the roof of the chalet above the church and Ring Ouzels. Singing Caucasian Snowcocks could be heard and after an anxious wait were tracked down by Dag. Now all of the “Big Five” had been ticked off.
After breakfast at 09:00 hours, we embarked on a second walk, crossing the Tergi River and obtaining very close views of Eurasian Treecreepers in the village park. Great, Blue, Long-tailed and Coal Tits were also observed. Our walk then took us along the west bank of the river, in a southerly direction. Many of the species encountered earlier in the day were seen again, but a total of over 200 European Bee-eaters was notable, good views were had of Griffon Vultures; Corncrakes were heard, (but not seen), hiding in thick vegetation and a fne male Great Rosefnch was spotted, along with two females. In a bush near grassy plain, Wryneck was spotted alongside dunnock. On a grassy plain covered little by shallow water, we saw 2 Little Ringed Plovers, while Grey Wagtails, a pair of Common Sandpipers and a Little Egret were found at the edge of the river. Eurasian Crag Martins were also noted flying nearby. Good amount of Barred warblers were also observed in bushes of sea buckthorn rattling and chasing off each-others.
In the afternoon, a trip to the Russian border produced some Red-fronted Serins and on the return journey, a stop at the dam in Kazbegi gave us very good views of a White-throated Dipper and a good, but distant, view of a Wallcreeper.
14 May:
Some of the group opted to climb from the Gergeti Trinity Church to the 3,000 metre mark, while others decided to bird the lower slopes around the village. Group of four made to a fnal point, while on the way they have endured strong winds on the ridges of mountains and cold temperatures. Mountain birds seen included: Caucasian Black Grouse, Horned Lark, Lammergeier, Griffon Vulture, two Caucasian Snowcocks, Eurasian Sparrowhawk and both Red-billed and Alpine Choughs.
Those who birded lower down saw mostly the same species as those recorded on 12th and 13th May, but additionally; 4 Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, 2 Rollers, Eurasian Crag Martin, Eurasian Blackcap, Eurasian Wren, 3 Red-throated Pipits and a Hawfnch swelled our growing bird list.
15 May:
Another walk along the west bank of the Tergi River added European Stonechat, Common Whitethroat and a Rook to the Kazbegi list. We departed Kazbegi at 1015 hours, but made a few stops, near the travertines, where we spotted Twite, Siberian Stonechat and Horned Lark and at the Georgian-Russian Friendship Monument where Alpine Swift and Montagu’s Harrier were added to our list. Stopping for lunch below the Ananuri Castle we heard Common Nightingale and saw a “Samamisicus” Redstart, while 3 Grey Herons were seen in the nearby reservoir.
Rather late at the afternoon, we arrived at Ponichala Forest Park or “Woodpecker Wood”, where we observed Lesser Spotted, Syrian, Black and European Green Woodpeckers, while a Eurasian Wryneck was heard. A Great Reed Warbler was also heard, and a Common Moorhen seen on the pond. We saw the nest of a Levant Sparrowhawk but neither adult was present. On the return to Tbilisi, some Collared Doves were spotted.
16 May:
Three members of the group went early to “Woodpecker Wood” (Fonichala reserve), where they saw both Scops Owl and Levant Sparrowhawk, as well as hearing a Moustached Warbler. The others, who arrived later, saw the Scops Owl at very close range but all quickly retreated as the rain came down. Next stop was the Kumisi Reservoir; on route to the lake a flock of Rosy Starlings was seen and after we had parked, and were walking towards the lake, a Little Owl flew out from under a railway bridge.
The lake produced Ruddy Shelducks with ducklings, Mallard, Eurasian Coot, Black-winged Stilt, Northern Lapwing, Common Ringed Plover, Ruff, Little and Temminck’s Stints, Curlew, Common and Green Sandpipers, Ruddy Turnstone, Black-headed Gull, Gull-billed Tern and 2 Purple Herons and breeding pairs of rock sparrows near the railway bridge.
It was a difcult birding day because of the rain and high winds. Woodchat Shrike was observed on our way south but at the David Gareja Monastery, there was little on view except for many breeding Common Starlings, Eastern Black-eared Wheatear and Black-headed Bunting and wind that made us seek a shelter for lunch near the toilet of David Gareja monastery entrnace. On the return journey to Tbilisi, Calandra, Crested and Skylarks were noted, along with Ortolan and Chukars. The day concluded with a meal at an excellent Tbilisi Restaurant with stunning views over the city to the Narikala Castle - what a great fnish to the frst part of our trip.
17 May:
A late breakfast meant that we did not cross the border until midday. While crossing from Georgia into Armenia, Tree Sparrows and a Eurasian Hobby were noted, and a Common Nightingale serenaded us across the river! On route to Dilijan, we stopped to admire a soaring Steppe Eagle and Long-legged Buzzard and a frst-thought Pied Wheatear which turned out as a black-eared (also Considering that Pieds are not common in Armenia) that was perched nearby. After an excellent lunch in Dilijan, we moved to some nearby woods but on leaving the bus, the rain started. Nevertheless, we did see some Semi-collared Flycatchers high up in the canopy along with Great and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, Redstart, Green Warbler, Blackcap, Coal and Long-tailed Tits, Eurasian Wren, Eurasian Treecreeper plus a pair of Eurasian Bullfnches and the only European Robin of the trip.
We then drove along the west side of Lake Sevan to Norashen Bird Reserve. There were many Armenian Gulls and White-winged Terns along with Pygmy and Great Cormorants. Ruddy Shelduck, Mallard, Gadwall, Red-crested and Common Pochard and Tufted Duck were the ducks we recorded. Moorhens, Coots along with Great-crested and Little Grebes were noted, along with a Wood Sandpiper. Herons and Bitterns were represented by a Little Bittern, Black-crowned Night Heron, Western Cattle Egret, Grey and Purple Herons and Little Egret. Both Blue-cheeked and European Bee-eaters were seen as were the three shrikes, corvids, Sand Martins, while Cetti’s, Great Reed and Sedge Warblers were all heard along with a Reed Bunting. A “Feldegg” Western Yellow Wagtail was also observed. As dusk was now falling, we re-embarked on our transport and drove north, then east, and finally south, along the east side of Lake Sevan to our hotel where, after a late meal, we retired at 23:30 hours.
18 May:
After watching Common Whitethroats in the hotel grounds, we left at 07:45 hours - joined the M10 Road going south. Stopping in a small hamlet on the way to Selim pass. The frst bird encountered was a Radde’s Accentor followed by a (Caucasian) Bluethroat, Rock Sparrow and then a Black Redstart. Ruddy Shelduck pairs were also seen on a nearby lake.
A coffee stop at the Orbelian Caravanserai, just past the Selim Pass, proved interesting with a Rock Sparrows singing above the entrance. Continuing south,we stopped for a lunch and then we went to Zedea. Both places together provided views of Booted Eagle, Levant and Eurasian Sparrow Hawks, Eastern Rock Nuthatch, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, White-throated Robin, Northern, Isabelline, Finsch’s X Black-eared hybrid Wheatears, Common Rosefnch and Common Linnet.
Our fnal destination for the day, Noravank Monastery, lived up to expectations with Griffon Vultures and Golden Eagles soaring overhead. An Upcher’s Warbler was well seen as were Blue Rock Thrush and Persian or Red-tailed Wheatear which was a BIG FINDING as Noravank Monastery surroundings are not famous for Persian Wheatears and our observation can be named as one of the frst in these years. Supper outside the Vartkez’s Cave Restaurant was a chilly affair, but we added Western Rock Nuthatch to our bird list, then warmed ourselves up with a walk down the road, catching up with an Eastern Orphean Warbler in the process. Night was spent in a hotel in Yeghegnadzor.
19 May:
Today was an early start, so we left the hotel in three 4 x 4 vehicles at 05:00 hours, our target bird being Caspian Snowcock. The road was such a challenge for drivers but they safely made to the fnal point and we arrived in the area of Mount Gndasar at around 06:30 hours and soon saw 4 Caspian Snowcocks - albeit at a distance! Singing in a bush just behind the group was a Rock Bunting. After breakfast in a freezing conditions, since the sun was still behind the mountain, we went back to our 4 x 4 cars and descended. Stopped in a village at 10:00 hours to look for a Syrian Woodpecker, without success, but we did see a Golden Oriole.
Our next stop was at Vardgen’s house, where we saw a White Stork sitting on its nest. A walk in the riverside orchad fnally produced great views of a Syrian Woodpecker while Spanish Sparrows were busy collecting nest materials on reeds and Eastern Olivaceous Warbler calling for a partner.
After lunch, we drove to the Vedi Gorge, where some of the group saw an Egyptian Vulture and others a Lammergeier. Finsch’s Wheatears were common, with Eastern Black-eared and Isabelline Wheatears also easily found. In addition, Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin, Rollers, Bee-eaters and Short-tailed Lark were seen. After some effort, A Grey-necked Bunting was also found. That evening, we stayed in a pleasant Yerevan hotel.
20 May:
Having risen early, for our much-anticipated trip to the Armash Fishponds, we were concerned about the effects of the extremely strong winds on our bird-watching. The wind did indeed make observation of Acrocephalus warblers extremely difcult. Despite this, many of the larger species were seen well including Common Shelduck, Northern Shoveler, Gadwall, Red-crested and Common Pochards, Ferruginous Duck and White-headed Duck. Numerous waders seen on 16th May were also on display but additional wader species were Eurasian Oystercatcher, White-tailed, Kentish and Grey Plovers, Black-tailed Godwit, Common Redshank, Greenshank and Terek Sandpipers. Collared Pratincoles were seen along with Slender-billed, Caspian and Black-headed Gulls, Whiskered, Little and Common Terns. Western Marsh Harriers were conspicuous, a distant Kestrel was deemed to be a Lesser Kestrel and while many warblers were “heard but not seen”, this did not apply to the many Bearded Reedlings. In the afternoon a hunt for Menetries’ Warbler proved successful, while Ola saw a Common Kingfsher.
In an effort to see the warblers better, Luka made the fortuitous decision to stop at a cemetery by Khor Virap. In a nearby reedbed, with more shelter than those at Armash, up to 4 Paddyfeld Warblers were seen along with Eurasian Reed and Great Reed Warblers and a Moustached Warbler, too. Later, we tried hard for Desert Finches in the arid area with peach orchads around, althought we did not have much success in it and saw none.
21 May:
Our last location for the trip was Mount Aragats. Stopping in the foothills, we were unsuccessful in our quest to fnd a Bimaculated Lark (although these were seen later that day by Hans and Katja who had decided to stay on for two extra days in Armenia.) Driving further up the mountain, a confding Golden Eagle was spotted on a pylon. There was plenty of snow where we fnally stopped at the Observatory, but fewer birds, although Horned Larks and Alpine Accentor were seen. On our descent we stopped a few times noting many of the commoner species. Lunch was taken at Amberd Fortress and then we began the return journey, which went smoothly, and we arrived back in Tbilisi at 19:45 hours.
Conclusion:
The Grand Caucasus is an annual 10-day birdwatching tour through Georgia and Armenia, held annually in mid-May. The harsh years of the pandemic, like all over the world, were difficult for both travellers and certainly for us, so this tour was in standby mode for quite a long time - since 2020 it has been postponed twice. This year, having almost all the right conditions, we were immensely pleased to make the decision to hold this long-awaited tour. In this decision, the high motivation of the participants themselves played an important role, who, despite the new challenges, especially in the post-Soviet space and in particular in our region, were determined to come and set the heat. The names of each participant are mentioned at the beginning of this report, and once again we would like to thank them all.
In general, we can say that the tour was a huge success, even despite a few grey and rainy days, but even here - we can say that such days even contributed to success, especially speaking about the part of the Greater Caucasus. We managed to see a Güldenstädt’s Redstart and Great Rosefnches in the vicinity of Stepantsminda. This is a very rare phenomenon for mid-May. At this time of year, they usually have to be observed at an altitude of about 3000 meters. However, we managed to see most of all the target species of the tour, including the famous chickens, such as Caucasian Grouse, Caucasian Snowcocks and Caspian Snowcocks. But that’s not all – In Armenia we even managed to fnd a new nesting place of a Red-tailed (Persian) Wheatear at the Noravank Monastery.
From a logistical point of view, there were no complications. The hotels were good and the food was great... with taste. The atmosphere that the pandemic was still an urgent topic was not felt at all - everything was now centred on what was happening in Ukraine.
If you are keen to join this tour next year, welcome - our doors are wide open. In 2023, we plan to slightly modify and develop the itinerary by adding a couple of surprises... say more spice.