This trip was designed to search for species we had not seen in other parts of Central America. Although the targets from the Belize list were about 50 species, many of these were unrealistic and vagrants. In the event, we were very satisfied with 22 new species. Most of our birding was in forest and we did not visit the coast, hence the overall list is deficient in waterbirds. Belize was a very pleasant place to visit and we had no problems. We stayed clear of Belize City and the coastal resorts, but wherever we went everyone was most helpful and friendly. The main roads are in good condition and the traffic light, so travel between sites was relatively simple. Secondary roads were however, in variable condition – generally very rough and we were glad to have a 4x4.
Logistics
We flew from Brisbane to Belize via Los Angeles and returned via Dallas. We had pre-booked a 4WD car from Crystal Auto Rental which we collected at the airport at about 5.30 pm.
Accommodation:
We were able to pre-book all of our accommodation with the exception of the Lodge at Big Falls. We were fortunately able to secure one night here by calling in the day before. It is definitely a better option in the south for birders than Cotton Tree Lodge. The restaurants and food at all the lodges was excellent, but they varied (as shown below) in terms of provision of air-conditioning and fridge – both were significant as the country was suffering an extreme heatwave with temperatures reaching 40 degrees most days (100+ Fahrenheit). The high temperatures meant that birding was only worthwhile from first light until about 11 am – after which all was quiet!
22 April 2023: Riverbend Resort, Ladyville. Close to the airport. Air-con. and fridge. Breakfast was included. Lovely river frontage but place was a bit rundown. Need to cross river for restaurants.
23-24 April: Jaguar Creek, close to St. Herman’s Blue Holes N.P. No air-con. and no fridge. Beautiful gardens and accommodation all superbly maintained. Excellent restaurant and birding. Wifi in central area.
25-29 April: Bocawina Resort. Within Mayflower-Bocawina N.P. No air-con. and no fridge, spacious but dim room. Early continental breakfast included, which was useful. Wifi generally fine in room.
30 April – 2 May: Cotton Tree Lodge, Santa Anna Road, Punta Gorda District. No air-con. and no fridge. Beautifully furnished spacious room with veranda overlooking the river (unfortunately riparian vegetation was cleared) Wifi in huge restaurant area.
3 May: The Lodge at Big Falls. Air-con. and kitchenette with fridge. An outstanding lodge in every way, perfect for birders. Wifi was great.
4 – 7 May: Log Cab-Inn Lodge, San Ignacio. Air-con. and kitchenette with fridge. Restaurant on site was great. Did not use pool. Slightly worn, but fast wifi.
7 – 10 May: Lamanai Outpost Lodge, New River. Fridge, air-con. was optional. Wifi. An expensive option overall, superb gardens and the lodge overlooks New River lagoon.
10 May: The BnB on Triggerfish, Ladyville. Close to the airport. Air-con and fridge. A highly recommended stay with spotless and spacious room with everything of high quality. Breakfast was not included but great, also had lunch here and a swim in the pool.
Information:
Much of our planning was done using “A Birder’s Guide to Belize” by Bert Frenz (ABA, 2012)’ and consulting ebird records. The former is very comprehensive and despite being 11 years old was generally still accurate and is highly recommended! The trip report by EirikG (2019) was helpful for Lamanai. We also took with us “Birds of Belize” by H. Lee Jones.
Main sites visited with comments on birds:
RIVERBEND RESORT, LADYVILLE
We birded the grounds of the lodge adjacent to the Belize River in the late afternoon and early morning of our overnight stay. The gardens and scrub were productive with 24 species recorded, including our first Morelet’s Seedeater (a very common species throughout the trip). There is a nesting colony of Montezuma’s Oropendola behind the hotel.
JAGUAR CREEK
We stayed two nights at this lodge on the opposite side of the highway from Blue Hole National Park. The gardens, surrounding forest and entrance road provided good birding. The gardens were good for hummingbirds and tanagers. Lesson’s Motmot vocal outside room.
ST. HERMAN’S BLUE HOLE NATIONAL PARK
We made two visits here from Jaguar Creek. The first, early in the morning starting at the east car park (HQ) and following the Dusky Antbird Trail. Good views of Northern Emerald Toucanet at the start of the trail. Good list of species from this trail. Next, we followed the Lowland Trail towards the cave entrance, but this was relatively unproductive. Later we drove to the east entrance where the picnic area and hummingbird loop were alive with birds although none of our target species.
MAYFLOWER-BOCAWINA NATIONAL PARK
This is an excellent area and apart from the N.P. itself, it served as a base to visit Cockscomb Basin. Five nights were spent here. The area around the entrance gate and the gardens of the resort were good birding and gave us Lesson’s Motmot near the river. An early morning walk up the Antelope Trail gave us Tody Motmot and we heard several Mayan Antthrush. The Bird Loop Trail which starts near the gate by the Mayan ruins was visited on several occasions and produced Ruddy Woodcreeper and Long-billed Hermit as well as Northern Barred Woodcreeper, Dusky Antbird, Royal Flycatcher and Chestnut-headed Woodpecker. Another early walk was along the Bocawina Trail, which produced Azure-crowned Hummingbird and Black-throated Shrike-Tanager, both near the carpark at the end of the very rough road. Another early visit to this site gave us good views along the trail of Little Tinamou. Park rangers at the gate shared their knowledge of birds which was greatly appreciated. Showed us a roosting Spectacled owl.
COCKSCOMB BASIN WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
This site was visited for the day from Bocawina, but to do this large area justice more time is really needed. We arrived at about 7 am, paid our fees and birded the trails around HQ. Many good birds, but none of our targets was forthcoming. On our way out we stopped at the Tinamou Loop Trail (opposite the plane wreck). This was fortuitous because a pair of Stub-tailed Spadebills were located and eventually gave us good views.
COTTON TREE LODGE
We stayed here for three nights as an alternative to the Lodge at Big Falls, which we were unable to book online. Birding was in the grounds of the lodge, along the Moho River side adjacent to the lodge and on the access road. The trees in the grounds and by the river were excellent for migratory warblers. The access road through secondary forest was quite productive and the only site where we recorded Mistletoe Tyrannulet. Other interesting species included Rufous Mourner, Royal Flycatcher, Chestnut-headed Woodpecker, Ruddy Woodcreeper and Red-capped Manakin.
The road in is about 6 or 7 kms but very slow going.
THE LODGE AT BIG FALLS
Two full days were spent here: the first on a day trip from Cotton Tree and the second when we stayed the night after having booked on the first day. This lodge is all about birding and has an extensive network of trails. We were lucky enough to get the advice of the resident bird guide – Steve Choco – as to the best localities for our target species. Hence early on the second morning we had great views of a pair of Bare-crowned Antbirds and later in the morning tracked down a Mayan Antthrush along the river trail. On the evening of our stay at the lodge Steve Choco took us out to look for Striped Owl. After failing at two of his sites around Big Falls we headed for “the dump” (an area of rice fields interspersed with clumps of trees that used to be a dumping ground), where he was spectacularly successful in calling up a Striped Owl that gave us great views.
MAYA MOUNTAINS
We stayed three nights at Log Cab-Inn just outside San Ignacio in order to easily access both the Mountain Pine Ridge area and Macal River area. Proved to be good choice.
The first full day was spent exploring the Chiquibul Road area. We made several productive stops in forest along the newly sealed road leading to Mountain Pine Ridge adding a number of species to the trip list, including Green Jay, Black-faced Grosbeak, Blue-black Grosbeak, Collared Aracari, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, Lesser Greenlet, Plumbeous Kite and Swallow-tailed Kite. Encouraged by the brand new road we decided to head for Caracol Archaeological Reserve. However, the new road ceased about a third of the way and reverted to a stony and dusty track with lots of road construction vehicles. There is an army checkpoint along the way where you have to sign in and record vehicle registration number etc. We were unable to bird at the Guacamallo Bridge due to construction activities, but after crossing the river the primary forest is very impressive leading to Chiquibul N.P. and finally to the famous Caracol Reserve. Our main target here was Keel-billed Motmot, but by the time we arrived – about 11 am, the day was very hot and birds relatively quiet, so the Motmot was not found! We did however, get another of our targets, Green Shrike-Vireo, a bird that had been eluding us at other sites.
The second day was spent in the Macal River area, firstly at Black Rock Lodge, where the very friendly staff told us the best site for Pheasant Cuckoo was on the trail up the mountain behind the lodge. Despite searching however, we failed to locate this elusive target species. Excellent views were had of a very confiding White-whiskered Puffbird. After a very pleasant lunch in the dining room surrounded by hummingbirds, we headed for Belize Botanic Gardens, but temperatures in excess of 40 degrees made birding difficult!
LAMANAI
We accessed Lamanai Outpost Lodge by driving up the Philip Goldson Highway, turning left near Tower Hill and then through the Mennonite farmlands of the Shipyard area. The Lodge is situated on New River Lagoon and adjacent to the Lamanai Maya Site. Birding in the vicinity of the lodge and the archaeological area were good, but the highlights of our birding here were two night trips to the New River and Dawson’s Creek and an early morning daylight trip to Dawson’s Creek savanna, all organised through the Lodge. The bird guides at Lamanai are excellent and on all three occasions we were lucky enough to secure the services of Christian. The first night boat trip yielded great views of two of our targets: Northern Potoo (2) and Yucatan Nightjar (2), as well as numerous other species, including Boat-billed Heron, Snail Kite and Russet-naped Wood-Rail. The second night trip gave us more views of Yucatan Nightjar and Northern Potoo as well as Great Curassow. We followed up the call of a Yucatan Poorwill, which led us a merry dance with fleeting views, until Christian finally tracked it down on the ground, giving us good views of a very elusive species! Unfortunately, neither night trip gave us one of our key targets, Agami Heron. Apparently, water levels were too low and all the guides were in agreement that at this time of year we would be unlikely to find them. The early morning trip across the lagoon and up Dawson’s Creek to the savanna was hugely successful. About 50 species were recorded between about 5.30 and 7.30 am. Three of our targets were seen well: Bottieri’s Sparrow, Rose-throated Tanager and Black Catbird. Other notables were Yucatan Flycatcher, Yucatan Woodpecker, Grey-crowned Yellowthroat, Grey Gnatcatcher, Yellow-lored and Yellow-headed Parrots, Olive Sparrow, Blue Bunting and Aplomado Falcon.
BNB ON TRIGGERFISH AND SURROUNDS
This excellent B&B is located on a canal estate development in Ladyville and is close to the airport. The canals are fringed by mangroves. We saw a variety of common species in the area and added Magnificent Frigatebird and Laughing Gull to the trip list. Although it has fewer birds than Riverbend, it is also close to the airport, has a good restaurant option for dinner at de Brewery and we would recommend this over Riverbend as a close to airport option.
Great Tinamou: Cockscomb, Lamanai
Little Tinamou: Bocawina
Crested Guan: Cockscomb
Plain Chachalaca: Bocawina, The Lodge at Big Falls, Dawson’s Creek
Great Curassow: Bocawina, Dawson’s Creek
Rock Dove: urban
Eurasian Collared Dove: urban
Scaled Pigeon: most forested areas
Pale-vented Pigeon: Dawson’s Creek
Red-billed Pigeon: Black Rock
Short-billed Pigeon: Cotton Tree
Gray-headed Dove: Bocawina
Gray-chested Dove: St Herman’s, Black Rock
Ruddy Quail Dove: Cockscomb
White-winged Dove: common
Common Ground Dove: common
Plain-breasted Ground Dove: Jaguar Creek, Dawson’s Creek
Ruddy Ground Dove: Jaguar Creek
Blue Ground Dove: The Lodge at Big Falls, Belize Bot. Gdns, Dawson’s Creek
Northern Potoo: Dawson’s Creek
Common Pauraque: common
Yucatan Poorwill: Dawson’s Creek
Yucatan Nightjar: Dawson’s Creek
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift: Cockscomb
White-necked Jacobin: Black Rock, St Herman’s, Cotton Tree
Stripe-throated Hermit: common
Long-billed Hermit: Bocawina, Cockscomb
Green-breasted Mango: Dawson’s Creek
Canivet's Emerald: The Lodge at Big Falls, Mountain Pine Ridge
Scaly-breasted Hummingbird: Jaguar Creek
Violet Sabrewing: Bocawina
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird: common
White-bellied Emerald: Jaguar Creek
Azure-crowned Hummingbird: Bocawina
Groove-billed Ani: Bocawina
Squirrel Cuckoo: common
Russet-naped Wood Rail: Cotton Tree, The Lodge at Big Falls, Dawson’s Creek
Limpkin: Cotton Tree, Dawson’s Creek, The Lodge at Big Falls
Wood Stork: Riverbend, Lamanai
Jabiru: Lamanai
Bare-throated Tiger Heron: Bocawina
Boat-billed Heron: Dawson’s Creek
Green Heron: Dawson’s Creek
Cattle Egret: common
Great Blue Heron: Lamanai
Great Egret: common
Tricolored Heron: Dawson’s Creek
Little Blue Heron: Riverbend, Cotton Tree
Snowy Egret: common
White Ibis: Dawson’s Creek
Magnificent Frigatebird: Ladyville
Neotropic Cormorant: common
Anhinga: Dawson’s Creek
Northern Jacana: Dawson’s Creek
Spotted Sandpiper: Mountain Pine Ridge
Laughing Gull: Ladyville
Turkey Vulture: common
Black Vulture: common
King Vulture: Bocawina
Swallow-tailed Kite: Bocawina, Mountain Pine Ridge
Black Hawk Eagle: Bocawina, Caracol
Plumbeous Kite: Mountain Pine Ridge
Snail Kite: Dawson’s Creek
Roadside Hawk: common
Striped Owl: The Dump
Mottled Owl: The Dump(H)
Spectacled Owl: Bocawina
Slaty-tailed Trogon: Bocawina
Black-headed Trogon: St Herman’s, Bocawina, Cotton Tree, Black Rock
Gartered Trogon: Bocawina
Collared Trogon: Bocawina
White-whiskered Puffbird: Bocawina, Black Rock
Lineated Woodpecker: Lamanai
Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker: Bocawina, Lamanai
Golden-olive Woodpecker: Mountain Pine Ridge
Pale-billed Woodpecker: Bocawina
Acorn Woodpecker: Dawson’s Creek
Black-cheeked Woodpecker: St Herman’s, Bocawina
Yucatan Woodpecker: Dawson’s Creek
Golden-fronted Woodpecker: common
Ladder-backed Woodpecker: Dawson’s Creek
Smoky-brown Woodpecker: The Lodge at Big Falls, Mountain Pine Ridge
Keel-billed Toucan: common
Northern Emerald Toucanet: St Herman’s
Collared Aracari: Mountain Pine Ridge, Caracol
Tody Motmot: Bocawina
Lesson’s Motmot: Bocawina, Mountain Pine Ridge, Jaguar Creek(H)
Amazon Kingfisher: near Cowpen
American Pygmy Kingfisher: Dawson’s Creek
Green Kingfisher: Dawson’s Creek, Bocawina
Orange-breasted Falcon: Bocawina
Aplomado Falcon: Dawson’s Creek
Brown-hooded Parrot: Cockscomb
White-crowned Parrot: Lamanai
White-fronted Parrot: Bocawina
Red-lored Parrot: common
Yellow-lored Parrot: Dawson’s Creek
Yellow-headed Parrot: Dawson’s Creek
Mealy Parrot: most forest areas
Olive-throated Parakeet: common
Bearded Manakin: Bocawina, Lamanai
Red-capped Manakin: Cotton Tree
Royal Flycatcher: Cotton Tree, Bocawina
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher: St Herman’s
Masked Tityra: most treed areas
Rose-throated Becard: Riverbend, Dawson’s Creek, Caracol
Cinnamon Becard: Bocawina
Stub-tailed Spadebill: Cockscomb
Eye-ringed Flatbill: Black Rock, Lamanai
Yellow-olive Flycatcher: common
Slaty-headed Tody Flycatcher: The Lodge at Big Falls
Common Tody Flycatcher: Cotton Tree
Mistletoe Tyrannulet: Cotton Tree
Yellow-bellied Elaenia: Jaguar Creek
Bright-rumped Attila: Cockscomb, Lamanai
Great Kiskadee: common
Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher: Riverbend, Caracol
Streaked Flycatcher: St Herman’s
Social Flycatcher: common
Tropical Kingbird: common
Eastern Kingbird: Cockscomb
Fork-tailed Flycatcher: near Cowpen
Rufous Mourner: Cotton Tree
Dusky-capped Flycatcher: common
Great Crested Flycatcher: St Herman’s
Yucatan Flycatcher: Dawson’s Creek
Brown-crested Flycatcher: The Lodge at Big Falls, Lamanai
Vermilion Flycatcher: common
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher: Bocawina
Eastern Wood Pewee: Cotton Tree
Northern Tropical Pewee: most forested areas
Dot-winged Antwren: Bocawina, Cockscomb
Dusky Antbird: Bocawina, Cockscomb, The Lodge at Big Falls, Caracol
Bare-crowned Antbird: The Lodge at Big Falls
Mayan Antthrush: The Lodge at Big Falls, Bocawina(H)
Ruddy Woodcreeper: Bocawina, Cockscomb, Cotton Tree, Black Rock
Tawny-winged Woodcreeper: The Lodge at Big Falls, Caracol
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper: Bocawina, Caracol, Black Rock
Northern Barred Woodcreeper: Bocawina
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper: The Lodge at Big Falls
Streak-headed Woodcreeper: Cockscomb, Bocawina
Rufous-breasted Spinetail: The Lodge at Big Falls
Green Shrike Vireo: Caracol, Black Rock
Mangrove Vireo: St Herman’s
Yellow-throated Vireo: Jaguar Creek
Red-eyed Vireo: common
Yellow-green Vireo: Dawson’s Creek
Tawny-crowned Greenlet: Most forested areas
Lesser Greenlet: Mtn Pine Ridge
Brown Jay: common
Green Jay: Mountain Pine Ridge
Yucatan Jay: Tower Hill
Yellow-throated Euphonia: most forested areas
Olive-backed Euphonia: Bocawina, Black Rock, St Herman’s
Botteri's Sparrow: Dawson’s Creek
Olive Sparrow: Dawson’s Creek
Green-backed Sparrow: St Herman’s, Belize Bot. Gdns, Lamanai
Orange-billed Sparrow: St Herman’s. Cockscomb
Ovenbird: St Herman’s, Bocawina, Cotton Tree
Louisiana Waterthrush: St Herman’s
Northern Waterthrush: Bocawina, Cotton Tree
Blue-winged Warbler: Cotton Tree
Black-and-white Warbler: St Herman’s, Bocawina, Caracol
Tennessee Warbler: Cotton Tree
Gray-crowned Yellowthroat: Dawson’s Creek
Common Yellowthroat: Cotton Tree
Hooded Warbler: Jaguar Creek,
American Redstart: common
Magnolia Warbler: common
Bay-breasted Warbler: Cockscomb, Caracol, Lamanai
Yellow Warbler: Bocawina, Ladyville, Cotton Tree
Chestnut-sided Warbler: St Herman’s, Cockscomb, The Lodge at Big Falls, Mountain Pine Ridge
Black-throated Blue Warbler: Cotton Tree
Yellow throated Warbler: Jaguar Creek
Golden-crowned Warbler: Black Rock
Eastern Meadowlark: Dawson’s Creek
Yellow-billed Cacique: Dawson’s Creek
Montezuma’s Oropendola: Riverbend, Jaguar Creek, Caracol
Hooded Oriole: Jaguar Creek
Black-cowled Oriole: common
Red-winged Blackbird: Dawson’s Creek
Bronzed Cowbird: Caracol
Melodious Blackbird: common
Great-tailed Grackle: common
Blue Bunting: Dawson’s Creek, Lamanai
Blue-black Grosbeak: Mountain Pine Ridge
Red-throated Ant Tanager: most forested areas
Red-crowned Ant Tanager: St Herman’s
Rose-throated Tanager: Dawson’s Creek
Northern Cardinal: Dawson’s Creek
Black-faced Grosbeak: St Herman’s, Mountain Pine Ridge, Black Rock
Blue-black Grassquit: Cockscomb
Grey-headed Tanager: Bocawina, Cotton Tree
Crimson-collared Tanager: Bocawina, Cotton Tree
Scarlet-rumped Tanager: Cockscomb, Cotton Tree, The Lodge at Big Falls
Black-throated Shrike Tanager: Bocawina, Lamanai
Red-legged Honeycreeper: most forested areas
Thick-billed Seed Finch: St Herman’s, Cockscomb, Lamanai, Dawson’s Creek
Morelet’s Seedeater: common
Variable Seedeater: Cotton Tree
Buff-throated Saltator: common
Black-headed Saltator: Jaguar Creek, Bocawina
Yellow-faced Grassquit: Cockscomb
Blue-grey Tanager: Bocawina, Cotton Tree
Yellow-winged Tanager: Jaguar Creek, Bocawina, Belize Bot. Gdns
Golden-hooded Tanager: St Herman’s, Bocawina
Barn Swallow: near Cowpen
Mangrove Swallow: Riverbend, Cotton Tree
Northern Rough-winged Swallow: common
Nightingale Wren: Bocawina
House Wren: common
Band-backed Wren: Bocawina
Spot-breasted Wren; Jaguar Creek, Bocawina, Cotton Tree, The Lodge at Big Falls
White-bellied Wren: Black Rock
Long-billed Gnatwren: The Lodge at Big Falls
Blue-grey Gnatcatcher: Dawson’s Creek
Tropical Gnatcatcher: Caracol
Black Catbird: Dawson’s Creek
Grey Catbird: Cockscomb, The Lodge at Big Falls
Tropical Mockingbird: common
Wood Thrush: Bocawina
Swainson's Thrush: Bocawina, Cockscomb
White-throated Thrush: Bocawina
Clay-coloured Thrush: common